House, design, repair, decor. Yard and garden. Do it yourself

House, design, repair, decor. Yard and garden. Do it yourself

» What a plant looked before watering a description. Watering in houseplants

What a plant looked before watering a description. Watering in houseplants

Olga Gorbatova
Labor In Nature "Training Children Watering Houseplants" (Junior Group)

Software tasks:

Learn children Practical skills policy

Introduce me to children with the structure of the employment process

Educate plants as living beings, to raise the desire to regret plant, effectively help him

Wordwork:

Plant, watering can, pot with pallet, stem, leaves, root, water, Wet land, beautiful, healthy.

Equipment:

Models labor process, apron, glue, watering can, flower in a pot with pallet

Aprons, skols, watering cans, flowers in pots with pallet

Preliminary work:

Observation by plant.(acquaintance with the peculiarities of the appearance, the structure, monitoring plant. in favorable and unfavorable states (lack of moisture, monitoring labor tutor by watering plants Corner of nature(Acquaintance with the model labor process)

OD

Organization children:

Children stand at the tables arranged by the letter

Input part

Children, a bear came to us and brought a flower with him.

Bear greets with children.

Guys, let's ask the teddy bear, why is it so sad, not fun?

Bear says he is sad because his favorite the plant was so beautifullike in the picture (shows the model, va now has become so (Shows plant) . Bear says that he does not know what happened to him, sorry for him plantThat is why he is sad.

And you feel sorry for Mishkino plant? (yes, sorry)

Let's regret the bear with you, tell him gentle words, do not cry a bear, we will help you, and you will again be cheerful, joyful.

Children, why Mishkino the plant was the same? What did he forget to do?

Let's listen to what asks plant.

Plant requeststo it polilli And then it will recover.

Guys, Bear says he does not know how water and nowprobably his plant will die.

Children, can we help Mishke? (can)

How? (We can teach it water plant)

Setting the goal:

Let's teach the bear correctly water plant

Children we want plant How did you feel? (Okay)

So that it makes it? (with children pronounces; plant It was good that the leaves look up to the stalk look up to the earth to be wet). Not to forget about it, put the picture (model - plant in good condition)

What plant now? (Examination is conducted plants: Leaves, stem, land). So as not to forget what plant now, We will put the picture (model - plant in unfavorable). Plant. It is necessary to help more. To do this, you need to choose the right tools.

Children, Bear says he knows what to do.

Look, he brought watering can. Look, Watering can have a handle so that we can keep a watering can, the watering can have a spout, the water is poured out of the nose, there is a hole, it is poured into this hole in a watering can.

Children, what is missing in Mishkina? (water)

Which watering can be taken? So as not to forget that you need to take watering can, put the picture (model - funds labor: Water watering can)

And now what will we do?

Children, Bear says he remembered how water And she wants to show us (the bear holds a watering can with one hand, pouring water on the leaves, under the root, wants to pour all the water from the watering can.

Bear, you are not right watering the plant. It is impossible to pour water to the root and on the leaves, and immediately pour all the water from the watering. Plant may die.

Look, children like I will water plant. Before you start work, I put on the apron, so as not to wet and not stain clothes. The flower stands in a pot with a pallet on the glue. I take a watering can with a carriage, I will put the spout to the edge of the pot, I'll slowly go, gradually the water will not appear on the pallet.

So as not to forget that plant need to pour put pictures(model labor actions) .

Kids plantif we are correctly pollying it? ( plant It will be in good condition, the stem will be smooth, lowered sluggish leaves will also rise, there will be even, elastic.)

So as not to forget to put a picture (model - plant in good condition)

Fixing

Before starting work, what will we do? (put on Apron)

How will we hold a watering can? (nose at the edge of the pot)

How much will we pour water? (While water does not appear on the pallet)

What will be plant after irrigation? (plant will be in good condition)

Independent work

Teddy bear, yours we helped the plantNow it will recover.

Some plants in our group also need to help, polick themso that they do not become like in the picture (show the model - plant in unfavorable)

Children want to help?

Then you need to find plantswho want to drink. Here's like in the picture (a model is demonstrated plants in unfavorable)

Mishka, together with the educator watching child laborI ask clarifying questions. When difficulties I come to the help.

I remind you to children that it's time to finish work and that you need to put a workplace in order.

Didactic game "Where did the bear hide?"

Didactic task: clarify the name of the acquaintances plants

Gaming Rule: Find Mishka

Gaming action: Finding a game character and calling plantsbeyond which he hidden

Children, soon our plants will become the same beautiful, healthy, as in the picture (show the model - plant in a favorable)

They will feel good. Today we made two kind cases with you: helped plants and taught a bear to water his plant.

Bear tells you all thanks, now His plant Will feel good. He is very happy about it. Now Bear learned water plantAnd it will always take care of him so that it is in good condition and pleased with his beauty.

Children, and you are glad that they helped plants? (emotionally divided joy children)

For normal growth and development, plants require water, although its amount varies significantly depending on the type of plant.

As a rule, water is absorbed by roots from the substrate, although plants-epiphytes absorb it to a greater extent than roots. The evaporation of moisture occurs with the entire above ground surface of the plant, mainly from the surface of the leaves. As a result, the sucking force is created, due to which the water is constantly absorbed from the soil. Therefore, the substrate should always contain enough moisture to ensure the needs of the plant.

But the roots are also needed air in the gaps between the substrate particles. If these voids are filled with water - roots rot and the plant will die.

therefore watering in houseplants - The question is delicate, since these plants have very little soil around the roots.

More plants die from the oveurgement of the soil than from any other reason.

Dishes for watering room plants.

The most necessary inventory for watering room plants - this is like with long naist Although many devices are invented to determine the need of plants in watering or implement it when the owner is not at home.

If you wear a sieve on the spout, you can wash off the dust from the leaves, for which you need to use soft water; Hard water leaves lime-based divorces on them.

Some indoor plants requiring severely moistened soil (for example, cipers), it is possible to place instead of watering pallet with water So that water reached the ground level. If the pallet is wide enough, then the constant evaporation of water from it will create a more humid atmosphere.

To increase humidity use manual sprayer .

How often watered indoor plants?

Each plant has its own water regime requirements. Then how often watered indoor plants Depends on many factors. Frequency of watering - the value is non-permanent; It depends on the magnitude of the plant, the size of the pot, on the environmental conditions and especially from the time of year . Therefore, you need to be guided by your observations.

The deserts, swamps, plants from climate with variable moisturizing have been found in our rooms. Accordingly, they water them in different ways.

Often, seeing sipped leaves, begins to pour a plant plentifully. It's not entirely right, since there are many reasons for withering. Turn the soil in the pot: if it is dry, the plant really needs to be poured, but if the soil is wet, the wilt can be associated with excess irrigation. At the same time, the roots, not getting enough oxygen, gradually die, then put on with putrid bacteria, and the plant begins to hurt. Watering should be reduced. Give the roots to ride, let the plant relax from the water.

The wilment is also caused by pests or pathogenic microorganisms. And in this case, watering needs to be reduced.

Locking the leaf of houseplants can occur under the action of sunlight, on a first clear day after a long cloudy weather. And before sining on the wrong irrigation, other errors should exclude, giving a similar reaction of the room plant.


Do not turn watering into a regular rite, which is performed, for example, every Sunday. The correct period of time between the irrigation of each plant is its own - Balzamin, perhaps in the summer will require daily irrigation, and the cactus astrophitum in the winter does not need water at all.

Earth in pots should, as a rule, be in moderately humid state. It is impossible to allow sharp transitions from lack of moisture to its excess. This means that watering should be regular and uniform. The need of indoor plants in water is determined by their specific features: the structure of the elevated organs, the power of the root system, etc.

The gap between irrigation in different plants varies depending on the season and changes in conditions of detention.

Araucaria

Plants with juicy, fleshy leaves (such as agawa, aloe, etc.) less need water than plants with large leaves, which sometimes need to water twice a day.

A recently rooted cutter requires much less water than an adult plant.

For bulbous plants, excess moisture is harmful. It is best to water them, directing the jet of water not on the bulb, and closer to the walls of the pot, or water from the pallet.

There are plants that are very sensitive to the lack of moisture, such as Araucaria. When her twigs begin to freeze, then no watering will no longer help.

In winter, in the period of rest, the growth of indoor plants slows down or stops, at this time the houseplants need less water and watered them much less often, sometimes up to 2 - 3 times a month, to avoid oveurgement of the soil.

On the contrary, in spring and summer, when the room plant has a period of growth and flowering, watering is needed more often (possibly from one to three times a week). With a slight tube, young shoots of the room plant, buds and flowers can suffer.

The need for water increases with increasing temperature and increasing light intensity. Plants in small pots and those that have not been transplanted for a long time, more frequent watering is required than plants in large containers or just transplanted. Plants in ceramic pots should be watering more often than in plastic; Plants in double pots require more rare irrigation.

there is golden Rule watering houseplants - it is better to water less, but more often than less often and remember.

Water for watering room plants.

Watering indoor plants advise only soft water - rain, river or pond. The most familiar rainwater is. It is that the leaves of most plants are accustomed to such water, so she is best for spraying.

Rigid water (including well) containing various salts should be avoided.

The main element, the content of which must be considered when watering is calcium. It enters the water when it passes through the limestone, chalk, dolomite, plaster and other lime breeds. In this case, the water becomes rigid (soap foam is poorly formed in it). The rigidity of water is due to the formation of scale on the walls of kettles, plaque on the water taps and pipes.

Exactly the same plaque from low-soluble calcium salts is formed when watering plants with rigid water. Remember that not all plants can carry an increased calcium concentration. Of course, this element is necessary for the normal life of any plant. However, other fertilizers you make only from time to time, and calcium - with every watering.

Especially poorly carry hard water aroid, azaleas, orchids, fern, camellia.

Well tolerate irrigation with rigid water those room plants that grow on lime soils.

But, given the state of our ecology, pollution of natural reservoirs, as well as possible pollution of rainwater by industrial emissions (if you live in an industrial area or not far from it), watering room plants with tap water - not such a bad output.

However, before watering indoor plants, chlorinated water from the water pipeline must be put on to settle at least a day so that Chlorine will have time to evaporate.

Do not use the remaining water all to the last drop. If a precipitate was formed at the bottom, then for plants it will be better if it does not fall into the pot.

The temperature of water for watering houseplants should be at least not lower than room. This rule is especially important when watering tropical plants. Cacti It is recommended to water warmer water. Watering plant plants with cold water can cause root rotting, foaming buds and even the death of plants.

On the contrary, watering the warm water of indoor plants in the cold room is also not desirable, because This will lead to premature growth of the room plant.

Proper watering of indoor plants.

In most plants during the growth period, the substrate should be maintained slightly moistened. Water the plant until the water starts penetrating through the drainage holes pot. Leave the plant for 10 to 30 minutes, and then drain the water that remains on the pallet. Do not repeatedly watering until the surface of the substrate is dry to the touch: the surface of the substrate dries first, and the substrate itself remains moistened inside.

In warm conditions, more frequent watering is required.

In winter, for most plants, the amount of moisture should be limited. During this period, growth slows down or completely stops, so the roots need less water, besides, they are more prone to loading in cool conditions.

Separate species require frequent irrigation, and it is impossible to dry out; And such a plant, like cipers, has adapted to the constant stay of the roots in the water.

Some plants, such as cacti, prefer dry conditions and need only in the insignificant amount of moisture.

How to pour houseplants?

Watering methods of indoor plants.

There are several ways of watering houseplants. They depend on the dishes in which you landed plants, pallets and on the peculiarities of the plant itself.

The most traditional and easiest watering method is from above. Moisturizing the surface of the substrate is produced using watering can. The soil should not be blown up with a sharp jet, it is better to water in small portions so that the water is not stood, flooding the bases of the leaves and stems. It is undesirable to spray water on the leaves when watering. It is best to use a watering can with a long nose.

The appearance of water in the pallet is a sign that the plant is political enough. Wait for the entire excess moisture in the pallet, and then drain it. With this method of irrigation, mineral salts necessary for plant growth are quite quickly washed out of the pot. To compensate for this loss, regularly feed the plants, especially during the growth period.

However, many plants, such as cyclamen, do not like when water splashes fall on their leaves, which causes them to rot. In this case, the lower irrigation is used. With lower irrigation, water is poured directly into the pallet. Due to the capillary forces, water rises up the substrate and evaporates from the surface. After 30 minutes, the excess water needs to be drained from the pallet.

The lower irrigation can be applied in the event that the earth is strongly served between the wall of the pot and the soil formed a gap. With the upper watering, water quickly flows into the pallet, not moisturizing the substrate, and only lowering the pot into the water, achieve good wetting.

The lower watering compared to the top has the opposite drawback: salt accumulated in the pot in excessive amounts. One of the signs of this is the formation of a lime crust on the soil. This crust can serve as a source of infection for plants, in addition, the roots of many plants from excess salts are damaged. The crust is removed from the upper layer of Earth 1.5 - 2 cm and plug the new substrate into the pot.

With a strong drying of the substrate, place the pot to the edges into the container with water and leave until complete moisture, but do not allow water to run through through the top of the pot. Before putting the plant on the pallet, give water as follows.

"Bathing" pots in water are watered with SENPOLIA, cyclamen and all other plants, poorly carrying water from entering the leaves.

With lower irrigation, do not forget to feed the plants. However, shortly before the feeding, rinse the earthen car watering from above or multiple lowering the pot into the water.

Types of watering room plants.

Rare watering room plants.

Indoor plants leave dry for several days, weeks, months. Rare irrigation is suitable for cactus and succulents, as well as leaf falling tuber and white room plants, having a rest period (crying, gloxia, hypipers, caladium).

1. Before irrigating, let the substrate on half - two thirds dry. Check the substrate moisturize with a stick.


2. Water the plant from above - water should be absorbed into the substrate, but do not flow into the pallet.


3. Check the substrate moisturizing with a stick, add some more water if necessary.


Moderate watering of indoor plants.

Indoor plants watered not immediately after grazing the earth coma, and after one or two days, that is, when the land in the pot will dry.

Moderate irrigation is used to houseplants with fleshy or high-heaved stems and leaves (Pappermia, Columbus), with thick roots and rhizomes (palm trees, drazes, aspidar, aroid), as well as with aquifers on roots (asparagus, chlorophytum, marant) and bulbous .

For some species of indoor plants, easy drying is a prerequisite in resting period, as it stimulates the bookmark and ripening of floral kidney (Siegocactus, Clivia).

1. Before watering, give the upper 13 mm substrate to dry. Check Moisturizing to the touch.


2. Water the plant from above until the entire substrate is fully moistened, but not wet.


3. If a little water flowed into the pallet, drain it and stop watering. Do not allow the plant to stood in water.


Iris (Iris) is a huge genus, uniting a wide variety of plants that have a "iris" type of flower. At the same time, the biology of these plants is so diverse that it is difficult to suspect close relatives in them.

Of course, every amateur of plants saw - familiar flowers, often grown in the gardens and decorating cities.
In this article, I would like to introduce flower water with much less frequent groups of Iris - Juno, IRIDODIKTYUM, REGELIO-CYCLUS. These species are distinguished by their biology from rhizable irises.
These are spring-driving plants, many representatives of which bloom exclusively early.
And since they are mountainous plants, then well-drained soil is the main condition for their successful cultivation.

Juno (Juno)

Junon (Juno) - A group of spring-working irises with a very peculiar biology. Junon is wonderful a form of flowers, in which the top shares of the perianth are reduced and reacted down.

The overwhelming majority of Junon grows in Central Asia, rising from the foothills to the Tien Shan glaciers.
Many of the Junon were described by the Pioneers-researchers of flora of these places for hundreds of years ago. However, until now, the opening in this reserve Yongon is possible (and happen).

A peculiar exotic beauty of Junon immediately attracted the attention of plant lovers. Attempts by cultivation did not stop since their opening never. Nevertheless, most of the Junon did not become common garden plants. However, several species are grown by nurseries constantly and can be attributed to plants that grow well in temperate climates.

Junon hybridization was launched by the famous flower Tomas Hogue, which created three hybrids at the end of the 19th century. On this selection and stopped, although there is opportunities for its continuation.

The cultivation of Juno is to collect jewels - these are fascinated flowerflowers, not indifferent to these plants.
Now there is a revival of interest in junctions due to impressive finds made during the Central Asian expeditions (sponsored by the Gothenburg Botanical Garden).

Juno bulbs have perennial roots - in their foundation there are kidneys, giving life to replacement bulbs.
With all operations with junctions, you must try not to form their roots.

In horticulture, the following types and forms of Junon are found:

- Iris (Juno) Aucheri -rod from Yu.V. Turkey. Beautiful view, long and successfully grown in Europe, but somewhat demanding to heat. Therefore, years happen when it may not bloom in the open soil.


In the photo: Iris Aucheri Blue Star; Iris Aucheri Purple Star; Iris bucharica.

- Iris (Juno) BUCHARICA HORT. - Poistered it is unknown. Cultivated for a very long time. The natural forms are distinguished by two-color painting flowers. One of the most unpretentious representatives of Junon, well multiplying vegetative and successfully growing even without an annual digital.

- Iris (Juno) Cycloglossa - This species found relatively recently (in 1972) in Afghanistan. The very peculiar one of all Juno, in Lithuania it grows well. It has a branching leafless bloomon. Almost flat flower with very large shares of fill. It is breeding vegetative, usually giving 2 subsidiaries.

- Iris (Juno) Graberiana -the origin of the species is unknown. Two forms are cultivated, in which the structure and painting of flowers are somewhat different. More often there is a shape with a white spot on the fifters of the lower flower petals. A rare shape - with a yellow spot on the fibs. Testing seeds from both varieties I did not observe. Perhaps these are interspecific natural hybrids. They are some of the few tall Juno, well-growing in our open ground. Every year and abundantly bloom.

- Iris (Juno) New Argument -hybrid derived by me. His name variety did not accidentally. His appearance confirmed the assumption that the famous hybrid Wang Tubegen Iris Warlsind, most likely, the result of accidental pollination I. Warleyensis Pollen I. Bucharica Hort, and not I. Aucheri (as previously thought). The hybrid is sterile, grows perfectly and breeds.



In the photo: Iris HYB. New argument; Iris Magnifica Alba.

- Iris (Juno) Magnifica Auva -the white-color form of the species of J. Magnifica is an endemic of Zeravshan Mountains. The tallest of all Juno, in good conditions Reaching almost meter height. Flowers are large, 7 - 9 pcs., Bloom consistently. The bulb has numerous thick rhizomes that make a digging of difficult work (however, it is not possible to dig it annually). This variety is one of the few, which perfectly feels in the garden and relatively undemanding. As a rule, the Mother Lukovitsa gives every year two subsidiaries. Well tying seeds, but seedlings do not always repeat the painting of parents and can have flowers with a bluish tint.

- Iris (Juno) Blue Mystery - Received as a seedman I. Willmottena. However, the plants were unusually large for this species and sterile, which clearly indicated their hybrid origin. According to their appearance, it can be assumed that the parent couple was: I. Willmottiana and I. Magnifica. Yet it is nothing more than an assumption, so the hybrid and called the Blue Mystery. Beautiful junoon, growing perfectly and breeding in our climate.

- Iris (Juno) Kuschakewiczii -this is the case when miniature does not diminish the merits. A real small diamond section of the genus of the North-Western Tian-Shan Toggers. The plant is rare in culture and not easy. Of course, it will "disappear" in planting tall species, but on and in - irresistible.

- Iris (Juno) Nicolai -the view is widespread in the mountains of Tien Shan. The earliest of Juno. Flowers after melting of snow almost without leaves, they appear later. A great impression produces its large flower of frosted shape, growing directly from someone else-covered soil. Plants from different types of species differ in coloring flowers. The view is not enough frostons for our climate, Juno landing must necessarily warm the peat.

- Iris (Juno) Orchioides -it has a wide range in the mountains of Central Asia. Plants from different areas differ from the height and painting flowers. Pretty high shape with bright yellow flowers Obtained me from the Alma-Ata Botanical Garden. Good grows in the open soil. Heat-loving; It is better blooming if the preceding summer was warm.

- Iris (Juno) Sindpers - Famous hybrid van tubgen. The plant is low, but its flowers are huge, beautiful shape and very fragrant. The thermal-loving, does not like cool rainy summer, should be planted in a sunny place. If you have the opportunity to grow a plant in a cold greenhouse, then you will fully enjoy its enchanting blossom.

- Iris (Juno) Shocking Blue - Selected from Seedlings I. Willmotteana. The flowers are similar to the Blue Mystery grade, but their color is more saturated. Sterile.

- Iris (Juno) Vicaria - The view is widespread in the mountains of Central Asia. Flowers are predominantly light, almost white color. Rarely meet populations with more or less violet petals. Unpretentious, grows well and breed.

- Iris (Juno) Warleyensis "One of the most beautiful Junon growing in the Western Song of Tien Shan (Zeravshansky Ridge, Cugitang Ridge)." Plants from different natural populations differ in the height of the stem from 15 to 40 cm. It grows well in the open soil. However, abundant flowering is difficult to achieve, especially if the previous summer was cold. Good results are obtained if the bulbs do not dig up, but after the vegetation is completed, it is covered with a glass of rain with glass or other transparent material. You can also put the bulbs in dry sand and warm them in a greenhouse. The view was used by Van Tubgen when creating a hybrid Warlsind. Despite the multiple introduction, the culture is still rare.

- Iris (Juno) Warlsind - The tallest hybrid van tubgen, as I. Warleyensis and I. bucharica Hort is now recognized. It grows perfectly in our climate, it blooms annually, it develops well and breed vegetatively.

Iridodictium iridodictiums

Iridodictyum (Iridodictyum)- group of elegant bulbous irises blooming in early spring. Interesting faceted hollow leaves of iridodics growing vertically. The leaves at the plant can be exactly as much as the bulbs subsequently formed. In the structure of the leaves, only a few species (Central Asian), which have groove leaves are exception.



In the photo: Iris Reticulata (Iris Reticulata)

On the site site


Subscribe and get!

Pretty rare frames of a water sparrow - Osoapki made an employee of the Kohlovdinsky reserve Igor Mavrin, working on Cordon Buquun. And these photos are unique in that this bird is a rare guest in our territories.

Dipper , or random Olyatka (Cinclus Cinclus.) - Bird sparrows detachment. It is also called water Drozd.or water Sparrow. Bird of small size, plumageit has dark-brown, thick. It lives on the shores of rapid transparent rivers and streams.

It is powered by water insects and raffs, which Olenyka collects on shallow water, between stones and under water. The main feature is the ability to swim well and dive even in cold water. Rising wings, deftly maneuvering in the flow of water, the bird is "running" along the bottom. Under the water, Olenyap can stay up to 50 seconds, running during this time up to 20 meters. She is very careful and sensitive bird.

"Recently Ya i met the bird rare for our places - Olenupka. About rarity it says the fact that for 28 years, that I live in the badykal, saw her for the second time"Commented on the author of unique pictures, Igor Mavrin, and most importantly, I managed to make some photos of this feathery."

It is very interesting about this amazing bird wrote at one time Ivan Sergeevich Sokolov - Mikitov Russian writer - traveler: "You need to be a skillful observer of nature to see the wonderful bird, Osolyapka. If you have to visit deserted forests or mountain places, look at and listen to good. On a clean and fast creek or river, perhaps you will be lucky enough to see Oãoapka! "

Drought - a long period with an insufficient amount of precipitation, which is most dangerous for plants at high temperatures and low air humidity. It is necessary to help plants survive into this difficult time, otherwise, due to the lack of moisture, their development stops.

The first sign of dehydration at the plant - lost the vehicle, sluggish leaves and buds. If we do not fill the water loss plant at this stage, then its leaves and buds are then started to shrink, dry and fall; Soon the process will spread to the entire aboveground part of the plant. While the root receives at least a small amount of moisture from the ground, the plant in most cases can still be reanimated. Drying the root system means the death of the plant.

It may seem ridiculous that living in the UK can be complained to a long lack of precipitation, because the old woman-Britain is known for its rainy climate. However, the southeast of England, where we live, is probably the most "dry" place in the country - drought here happen quite often. In winter 2004-2006 There was a lack of rain, which broke all records since 1933!

According to information BBC Weather.From November 2004, we had only 72% of the average precipitation. By the beginning of July 2006, about three weeks stood drought: actually the complete lack of rains at the air temperature above 30 degrees Day and 15-17 at night. Before the end, it will be possible to evaluate the damage from drought next year, if it affects the flowering of azaleas and rhododendrons, which at this time laid the buds of next year.

The arid beginning of the 2006 season inspired the designers of the Competition Gardens of Chelsea-2006 on the subject associated with droughts. Interesting element B. African garden (GardenAfrica.): The beds are located on a spiral under a slope. When watering water flows from top to bottom down, and collected in the center of the spiral, where the most moisture-boring plants are located

Garden, which is not terrible drought

Of course, the negative impact of drought on the plants as a whole is determined by several factors: the durability of drought, air temperature and wind power during this period, the possibility of accessing water and the presence of the necessary human resource. However, if you keep in mind the possibility of drought still during strategic planning of the garden and landing, you can initially take measures to help plants survive in drought, and work and time will save the hosts for the owners.

> Try to sow and plant new plants in spring or autumn, when a sufficient amount of rains falls out, and plants are easily rooted and coming up. On the other hand, it should be remembered that in general plants in containers are more vulnerable to drought than plants in the open ground. Therefore, if a new plant from the Garden Center may somehow need a transplant to the garden, I would transfer it in the summer in the heat, be sure to provide regular abundant watering and direct sunlight protection at first.

\u003e When planting and transplanting plants, dig a deeper hole in the soil and be sure to add sheet humus or garden compost into it, which improve the structure and composition of the soil, allow moisture to freely penetrate the roots and delay it there for a long time.

> Use special moisture reducing granules or gel, which are copiously drinking with water during irrigation, and then gradually give this water to the roots. These funds should be mixed with land when planting or transplanting plants. They are especially important for plants in containers.

> Be sure to use a mulch on flower curbs, around shrubs and trees, as well as on the surface of pots and baskets with plants. Fold the mulch in the spring - after warm weather is established, and the earth warms up and will be saturated with moisture. As a mulching materials, it is possible to use chopped wood bark, sawdust, chips, chew, gravel, the same garden compost or special synthetic garden material. The selection of mulch depends on the type of plant (for example, bark, sawdust and needles, acidify the soil, so they are well layered under hydrangeas, rhododendons, camellias, heers and other acytophiles). Mulching plants allows moisture to penetrate into the soil during rains or irrigation, but it makes it difficult to evaporate, and also suppresses the growth of weeds.

> Delete weeds in a timely manner, which will be toughly compete with the "cultural" plants during drought. Weeds easier to delete when they are just shown from under the ground.

> Soot adjacent plants closely, leaving only the space between them necessary for the development of roots. Fixed close leaves of plants reduce moisture evaporation and soil drying

> If you, like me, live in the region with frequent droughts, then consider this when placing plants in the sun and shadow zones of the garden. Give preference to drought-resistant plants. Often such plants have silver foliage, chevy or thick leaves. Decorative drought-resistant plants include: purple, wormwood, syngue, lavender, Santolina, Lanenik, Mac, Mokha, Yarrow, Iris, Echinacea, Akantus, Bergia, etc.
It does not need watering, for example, meadow flowers, succulents and decorative herbs, aromatic plants, pumpkin, corn.

Watering plants in drought conditions

Ideal time for regular, planned irons - a windless late evening, when the heat slept, ahead is a cool night, and the evaporation of moisture is minimal. Suppose to watering and early in the morning, before the onset of heat. However, if on a hot day, the plant looks dehydrated, then it should be poured immediately, not allowing water from entering the leaves to avoid the occurrence of sunburn.
If you use an automatic watering system, do not forget to reinstall the timer in accordance with the changed weather conditions - then the plants will receive a greater amount of moisture necessary for them in the arid period.

In hot weather, plants in containers should be watered twice a day: early in the morning and late in the evening. Place the pots on deep pallets or in Cachebo, which can delay at least a little water. If you do not have the ability to provide regular watering by container plants, it is better to rearrange them into the shadow.
Plants in greenhouses and greenhouses may suffer from overheating during the heat, because the temperature in a closed room is raised much higher than in the open space. Do not forget to open the doors and greenhouse windows through hot days and use fans (if any).
Use sprinklers for daily watering of young crops of grass or freshly founded rod. Put an open glass judge in the area of \u200b\u200bthe sprayer and finish irrigate when water is dropped to the level of 13 mm (fewer does not cause benefits, and more wasting it).

How to save water and effort

Due to the lack of rains and the dangerously low level of drinking water reserves, during the drought we had an official ban on watering private gardens by tap water from hoses. Theoretically, at this stage we have no restrictions in the use of tap water for watering (though, they may arise later if the drought continues, and the water reserves - to disappear, then more tightened rules come into force). However, in practice, the need to use the watering can instead of the hose alone imposes these restrictions, because the costs of time and forces for watering the garden increase many times. Then you have to do a very hard choice: which plants you need to pour today, otherwise they can almost completely dehydrated.

If you have similar or some other restrictions, and it is not possible to water well, it does not work efficiently, you can use several simple methods that I use to save water, work and time:

> Before watering plants, determine your priorities and follow them clearly. Watering is vital to the seedlings, just planted in open soil with young plants, plants in containers (especially in small), plants in greenhouses, fresh crops of grass, which has just been laid by the rolls of rods and moisthed plants (for example, coastal or swamp). These plants will die without water.

In second place there may be plants that will not bloom with a lack of water, or fruit cultures that will not be able to successfully be fruitless without irrigation (or any other plants, depending on your goals).

Watering more needed plants on light, sandy soils that breathe faster heavy, clay.

> Abundant and rare watering are preferably stingy and frequent. The fact is that a small amount of water penetrates only in the upper layer of the soil, contributing to the development of weak, highly located roots, which suffer from the first of the drying of the soil or frost. For the development of a strong and deep root system, which can support a plant in harsh weather conditions, it is required that water penetrates deep into the soil around the plant. The correct depth of soil moisturizing when watering is about 60 cm.

> If you plan to purchase and use a watering system in the garden, then invest in modern drip or inkjet (instead of the traditional splashing system). Water delivered by such systems appears at the right time (late evening or even when you are not at home) Thanks to the timer on the tap, it falls precisely to the appointment to the roots of plants and absorbs to the last drop, without spending on watering the neighboring weeds.

> Before watering, breaking the soil around the plant and make a small well so that the plant turns out to be in the middle of the deepening. All water after irrigation remains in this well and as the plant roots will fall into roots, and it does not grow by drying soil. In the fall, with the arrival of rains, you can dip a plant, comparable to a hole with the level of the ground surface to eliminate the stagnation of water from the roots. Other time, try, if possible, do not disturb the soil during the drought period: any loosening contributes to the additional evaporation of moisture from the soil.

> Remove the shower nozzle from the waters (or hose) and water the plant under the very root - then all the water falls as prescribed, and not spread around the plant.

> For watering plants in containers, I use a large wide capacity, filled with water, into one in turn I put pots and hanging baskets for a while. Thus, all the soil in the container flows through, and the plants receive a large amount of moisture. It is also an excellent way of urgent resuscitation of already affected plants with a dry earthen room, for which ordinary watering is completely useless. This method of moisturizing is not harmful even in the most sultry hours, because water does not fall into the leaves of plants.

From time to time, water from the tank can be poured under some shrub, because it accumulated a significant amount of useful substances from the soil of container plants.

> Find the opportunity to use the so-called "secondary" water (remaining after washing, cleaning, washing dishes or soul) for watering ornamental plants, trees and shrubs. To do this, you may need to change the drain system of your home. In secondary water, together with the remnants of household detergents, there are many phosphates that your plants will be repaired as a good fertilizer.

Remember that water from the dishwasher and washing machine before watering plants should be cooled to room temperature. It is advisable to use not harmful to the environment, decaying under the action of microorganisms detergents. Cannot be used for watering plants water with remnants of chlorks, bleaching, disinfection drugs and other strong chemicals.

> Purchase and install special rainwater barrels in the garden. Such barrels are directly connected to the pipe into which water falls from the grooves located around the perimeter of the roof of the house or greenhouse. The barrels are installed on the elevation so that the watering can be substituted under the opening crane (or attach the hose to it). You will be able to use water accumulated in barrels for watering plants as needed.

Lavender English (England)
Country Life (CountrySideliving.net)

All about watering On the site site


Weekly free site digest site

Every week, for 10 years, for 100,000 of our subscribers, an excellent selection of topical materials about colors and a garden, as well as other useful information.

Subscribe and get!

Among other species in your collection, you will definitely ask what kind of variety it applies and find information on the features of home care - including that how to pour it right New "Green Pet".

Below you will find practical recommendations that will help you correct the majority of popular types of home plants. We will look at issues as a choice of dishes for watering flowers, which water watering flowers, frequency of irrigation, signs of lack of moisture, watering methods, how to water orchids and other indoor plants during your vacation.

♦ Dishes for watering room colors:

Like with a long nose. Practical inventory - long spout can be easily directed through a thick crown, under the bottom leaves or right under the root outlet, so as not to drop the water on the delicate leaves of the flower. Very convenient inventory for watering plants in phytosten or in phytomoduls (vertical landscaping);

flask. Special device with an elongated tip and spherical container-container for water. Such an inventory is great to help you retrieve when you need to leave for a long time. It is enough to fill the tank with water and stick the splash splas in the soil, which will gradually be saturated with moisture as drying;

Spraying pulverizer (sprayer).
With the help of spraying with water from the spray, you can provide additional flow of moisture through the tops of the plant. This method will help you preserve the decorative quality of the plant in the summer heat or during the heating season, when the level of humidity in the room is very low;

Pallet with water. An excellent way to extract soil in a pot, if the room is too dry air. It is desirable to put a flower pot right into the water, but on a wet clay or pebble in the pallet.

♦ Water for watering room colors:

Rain, river, pond water. Some flowerflowers prefer to water the bedroom plants with melt and rainwater. Flowers react well to watering with soft water from natural natural sources. But it is necessary to disinfect water, add a few pieces wood coal;

tap water.
Most of the inhabitants of megacols watered their flowers with water from under the tap. But it is important to remember that chlorinated tap water with low-soluble calcium salts is very tough. Be sure to defend this water for at least 24 hours (and better - a few days) before watering colors, and the remnants from the bottom pour out. Water the plants with water room temperature or slightly warm.


- In the photo: signs of lack and overalling water

♦ Roofing frequency:

❂ Most indoor plants love regular and uniform watering so that the substrate is in moderately wet state. If the period of abundant soil moisturizing is sharply replaced by a period of insufficient moistening, the flower begins to stick and may die;

❂ In the winter period, many indoor plants slow down the processes of growth and development (or stop at all). The need for water with dissolved nutrients is significantly reduced and water should be watered much less often (or not to water at all). And in the spring-summer period, with an increase in the duration of solar illumination and increasing temperature, the irrigation frequency increases to 1-3 times a week;

❂ Plants with large and wide leaves are watered more often (Ficus Benjamin and Rubbone, Anthurium Andre, Spathifulum, Home Begonia, Gloxinia Sinningia, Gardenia Jasmine, Gerbera, Balzamin, Sheffler, Diffenbahia). The bulbous species should be watered moderately and less often, as the overvailing can lead to the rotation of the root system (Hippeastrum, Clivia, Amarillis, Calla Zanyadesquia, Oxalis, Hyacinths, Euharicis Amazonian Lily). Most species of potted orchids (phalaenopsis, dendrobium nobile) are watered no more than once a week in winter and no more than two times a week in summer. There are rooms that easily carry long interruptions between watering (succulent species - a thickness of a money tree, aloe vera or amelor, arrangement triangular, Sygocactus Decembrist, as well as types such as Calanechoe Blossfeld, Chlorophytum, "Techin Language" or Sansevieriya);

❂ Ceramic (clay) pots have a good porous structure, circulation and evaporation of moisture occurs more actively. But plastic pots are well delayed water in the substrate. Therefore, water the flower placed in a ceramic pot is necessary more often than in plastic.

In the photo: rare, moderate and abundant watering

♦ Watering methods of indoor plants:

❀ Upper watering. For watering the flower on top it is desirable to use a special dishes with a long nose (watering can, flask). It is advisable to guide the spout closer to the stalk so that the water does not fall on the leaves. If the plant has a developed sheet socket, try to direct the water stream under it so that the water is not stored. Water the plant evenly, in small portions so that the water is not stood on the upper layer of the soil. Whole dragging in the pallet water. This is a versatile way of watering room species. The disadvantage of this method - the useful substances of the substrate are quickly washed. Therefore, do not forget to feed plants on time.

❀ Lower watering. Some types of decorative-deciduous plants lose their attractiveness if water drops fall on the leaves (yellowish or black spots appear, the sheet plate is deformed). Therefore, water for watering is filled with pallet. Within 30-40 minutes, the substrate is moistened to the upper layer and all extra water from the pallet must be merged. The disadvantage of this method - mineral salts are not washed out on the contrary - delay in the soil for a long time. If a lime crust appears on the surface of the soil, then carefully remove it along with the top layer, adding a fresh substrate.

❀ Immersion Pot into the water. Highly good method Moisturizing that allows the soil to be completely impregnated with water. Lower the pot with a flower in the water capacity so that the water does not register into the substrate through the edges of the pot. Water quickly impresses all the layers of the substrate through drainage holes. Then place the pot on the lattice so that all excess water flows down. It is not desirable to use this method of moisturizing during the flowering period of the plant, when moving the pot can cause the extinguishing of buds and petals.


- Tables with factors affecting the abundance and frequency of irrigation


♦ Watering indoor plants during the holidays:

√ Vacation up to two weeks.

The soil is abundantly moisturizing the immersion method of each pot into the water;

☛ Less frequent plants with small fleshy leaves, which are in the period of rest in a cool room with high humidity, grown in plastic or glassware;

☛ If the water from the tap contains too much lime, it is desirable to skip it through a special filter to use soft water to watering;

☛ Never use cold water for irrigation, as this can lead to gradual die in the peripheral roots, the appearance of viral and fungal diseases;

☛ The most ideal time for the polishes of most indoor species is an early morning (with sunrise);

☛ In hot summer days and during heating it is necessary to spray plants from the spray gun. Near the plants, you can put a water container for additional humidification.

♦ How to water orchid at home:

❶ Water orchids can only be warm with soft water. Rare collectible and whimsical room types of orchids are desirable to water diluted with distilled water. The resistant water of medium hardness stirred with distilled water in proportion 1: 1. And too hard water stirred with a 1: 2 distilled in proportion;

❷ If orchid without boulevards, then water it after the substrate is completely dry, and the lower leaves begin to lose the tour and shrink. If orchid with bulbs, then water the flower after the bouches begin to shrore a little;

❸ During flowering, most popular home species (phalaenopsis, dendrobium nobile) watered very moderately 2-3 times a week. Watch the water in a pot around the roots, water has never been caught and flowed out freely from drainage holes;

the best way Watering orchids in the summer period - soaking the pot in warm watering water 10-15 minutes. Be sure to make the water completely left the holes at the bottom of the pot after soaking;

❺ How often watered orchid at home. Full soil drying is much safer for the root system than overflow. Most species can be watered with a frequency that is determined as follows: as soon as a completely dry substrate, the next day you can moderately pour a flower. But do not forget that the frequency of irrigation also depends on the following factors: the type of orchid, the growing season or the period of rest, humidity and temperature in the room, the composition of the soil, the pot (volume, from which material is).

♦ Video:

How to moisturize the soil in the pot (on the example of room begonia):
to Home Page

Also find out ...

Plants are so diverse in appearance, structure, origin that it is impossible to offer mathematically accurate recipes relating to the frequency and volume of irrigation.

Some plants do not endure the lack of water, they are withering or dry as soon as the substrate dries. If the leaves dropped, the plant is often difficult to return to a normal state. Such plants must be grown in a substrate well holding water based on low peat. But there are also species that prefer more rare watering. It is most cacti and succulents and all plants with dense rigid leaves or forming solid thick trunk.

Observation and good knowledge of plants allows you to water in the perfect moment and give the plant optimal amount of water. In the period of growth (from mid-March to late September) plants need the most frequent and abundant irrigation. As a rule, at this time watered 2 times more often and 3-4 times more than during the period of vegetative rest (from mid-October until the end of February). In transition periods, the frequency of watering depends on the air temperature.

Watering by tree plants. At normal temperature (18-22 ° C in the house), plants forming a solid barrel, as well as types with dense leaves, are watered on average every 5-7 days during the growth period and every 10-12 days during the period of vegetative rest (winter). Water should fall on the surface of the earth coma.

Watering herbal plants. Fineless plants, plants, forming sockets or a bush of flexible and thin stems, as well as all plants resembling grass, watered on average 2 times a week during the growth period and 1 time per week in winter. It is best to use the method of immersion pot into the water.

Watering orchids. Forms with pseudo-bulbs or with stems resembling reeds, watered on average 1 time per week throughout the year and only during flowering period - every 3-4 days. Orchids with thin stems or forming sockets are watered 2 times a week during the growth period and 1 time a week in winter. Use unknown water, do not wet the core of the plant and pour out excess water from the pallet.

Watering cacti and succulents. During the period of growth, water every 6-10 days depending on the air temperature and no more than 1 time in 15-20 days in winter. If the temperature is low, do not water at all. For example, lithopc can withstand in a pot of about a year without a single water drop, if the room temperature is below 16 ° C.

Watering bromels. Pineapple, Ehmeu, Guzmania, etc. Water by an unknown water on average once a week throughout the year. During the period of growth, leave the water in the center of the deciduous socket.

Disadvantaged watering . When the plant does not find more in the soil of the water necessary for him to maintain life, it begins to use reserves. Plants having fleshy stems or fleshy leaves, like cacti and succulents can carry drought for several months. And plants with thin and fragile stems, with large thin and flexible leaves, begin to experience the consequences of drought faster. When the cells lose part of the fluid, they lose their elasticity, and the fabrics are nusted or hang. This is the most important sign that the plant is having thirst. In most cases, it is quite good to flush by an earthen one that the plant returns to life again. But remember that the fading relaxes the plant, prevents him from normal development. You must intervene in time, but do not flood the plant, but only give it the necessary.

Slow drying of the Earth in pots indicates a painful state or weak growth of the plant. If the plant turned out to be filled, then it is necessary to break the surface of the Earth, or remove the top layer of the Earth to the roots and fall asleep with fresh land. If the Earth is in a pot of Zakisl, then you need to transplant the plant into a new land, pre-flushing its roots and removing from them by drunk.

If you poured the plant to so much that the pot smelled mold, try changing the substrate. Remove the plant from the pot, squeeze the earthen com, to press water, and remove the maximum possible amount of wet substrate. Move the plant to the new substrate, slightly wet. Do not water the plant at least 15 days.

If the stains spread not only on the leaves, but also on the cutters and the core of the plant, then, unfortunately, it will not be able to save and you will have to purchase another plant.

a source

Watering for plants has exceptional importance, as well as drinking water for a person. Without a sufficient amount of water dissolving in the soil, the necessary nutrients, the plants are not only worse, but also starve. Water is necessary for all physiological processes: photosynthesis, movement of organic compounds resulting as a result of photosynthesis, as well as to absorb mineral substances as soil solutions.

Watering is one of the most important measures to ensure the viability of plants. The task of watering should be solved in the complex with the problem of achieving the optimal water permeability of the soil. The plant can be rotated from superficial convergence, testing at the same time acute moisture deficit. To increase the permeability of heavy soils (soils for planting plants) in them should be made sand, compost, peat. Usually there are no such problems in modern mixtures - everything is balanced.

Watering water should have neutral acid and alkaline balance and minimum amount of toxic impurities (chlorine, fluorine, heavy metals, etc.). The perfect option is a natural rain, purified, spring or distilled (then using fertilizer) water. Water water is moderately suitable for watering only after settling during the day and stabilization of acid-alkaline balance. Cleaning with activated carbon removes chlorine and fluorine, but saves calcium and salts of heavy metals. You can use filters or purchased water.

The main rule of watering plants: water only when the earth is dry in a pot. Permanent excess moisture is harmful - it leads to a violation of the normal air exchange in the soil. The root system needs constant oxygen access. With its disadvantage and in excess of moisture, the roots gradually die, yellow and fall leaves. This means that the plant flooded. It is necessary to reduce watering, and in some cases to save the plant, it is necessary to cut it and try to root the cuttings from it, pre-holding them in water. In case of strict compliance, the main rule should be taken into account that watering plants of different groups and species has its own characteristics.

The need of plants in water is determined by their specific features: the structure of the above-ground organs, the power of the root system, etc. For example, plants with juicy, fleshy leaves (such as agawa, aloe, etc.) less need water than plants with large leaves, which sometimes need to water twice a day. For bulbous plants, excess moisture is harmful. It is best to water them, directing the jet of water not on the bulb, and closer to the walls of the pot, or water from the pallet.

There are plants that are very sensitive to the lack of moisture, such as Araucaria. When her twigs begin to freeze, no watering will no longer help. For arakaria, you need to monitor constantly and in addition to watering spraying the plant - as often as possible, it is possible and several times a day.

There is a number of crucial requirements for irrigation water. Here are the main of them: the purity of water, the small content of salts and minerals, the complete absence of toxic impurities and foreign inclusions, neutral or weakly acidic acid reaction. For watering in most cases use water water Of the total water supply network, well water (outside the city), water from a well, water from a nearby reservoir (that is, river or lake) and rainwater. Naturally, each type of water has its own characteristics and characteristics that indicate the degree of its suitability for watering.

Tap water is filtered and different cleaning stages, What makes it suitable for drinking is everyone known. Also, this water is suitable for irrigation, although it is worth noting that the content in it of minerals is quite small and, depending on the season, the chlorine content can significantly increase.

Well water or water from the well, On the contrary, it is distinguished by a high content of salts and minerals, because, passing through the thickness of the soil, shears the valuable trace elements, which is a positive property for water. But nevertheless, the content in water of minerals should not be overpriced, since then it becomes unsuitable for watering plants.

Water from the reservoir Perhaps the least suitable type of irrigation water, mainly due to the large risk of containing toxic waste, products of rotting, chemicals, bacteria, foreign engines and other hazardous impurities.

Rainwater Significantly softer tap, has an almost neutral acid reaction, and in addition, it is quite high, the dissolved oxygen content. Thanks to all these characteristics, rainding water can be viewed as very valuable for plants, and there is a completely definite meaning to collect it. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that in an extremely polluted environment in rainwater inevitably harmful chemical compounds, heavy metals, lime dust (giving water), products of combustion of liquid and solid fuels in the form of soot and dyeing of the oil liquid, which is in Significantly reduces the value of rainwater.

To reduce the degree of pollution of rainwater, and therefore, the risk associated with it should be followed by a number of rules upon its collection. Since the tanks for collecting rainwater in the overwhelming majority of cases are installed under drainage pipes and chutes before entering the barrel, water flows down the roof, flushing the dust, chemical compounds, soot and other "unfavorable" substances. The water of the first precipitation is particularly polluted after a long period of drought, because The amount of dirt accumulated on the roofs is especially large. Therefore, it is not recommended to collect rainwater, if before that there was no precipitation for a long time. When the rain takes a strong and protracted character, it is possible to abandon the volume of water falling into the first half hour, this time is enough to wash off the roof of the main dust containing harmful impurities. In order to be able to regulate the flow of water in a barrel, a valve can be installed in the catchment unit, overlapping which, you will direct water from the drain pipe to the ground, when it is undesirable to collect the capacitance for one or another reasons.

Switching leaves, loss of turgora leaves and shoots.

In plants with soft, gentle leaves (wet vanka) they become sluggish and lowered. In plants with rigid, leathery leaves (ficus, laurel, oleander Mirate, etc.) they dry and creep (first of all, fall out old leaves).

Flowers and buds fall or quickly faded.

Switching leaves, there are soft sections with signs of rot.

Curled, yellowed and coughing leaves, brown leaves tips.

Feed up both old and young leaves.

There is a golden rule of watering plants - it is better to water less, but more often than less often and remember. It should be noted that the fading of the leaves is not always associated with a lack of water. This may occur under the action of sunlight, on the first clear day of a long cloudy weather.

Plants are watered immediately after driving the earth coma. Such watering requires most tropical plants with thin gentle leaves, as well as some plants with leathery leaves (for example, lemon, ficus, gardens, ivy, coffee). Both those and others suffer very much from Perechechka: the leaves are yellow and tremendous or wept and omit, without restoring the previous position. In abundant irrigation, all plants are needed during flowering and growth: even with a slight trip, young shoots, buds and flowers can suffer.

The plants are not watered immediately after the earthlings of the earth coma, and a day later, two, that is, slightly dried. So the plants are watered with fleshy or strong stems and leaves, with thick roots and rhizomes (palm trees, drazes) as well as with aquifers on the roots (asparagus) and bulbous. For some species, easy drying is a prerequisite during rest, as it stimulates the bookmark and ripening of floral kidney.

Excess watering (signs).

Before an overly moistrated plant starts to fade, it seems to look weakened. The plant on the left was politically overly, the same, right, received a normal amount of water.

Plants are leaving dry for several days, weeks, months. This refers to succulents (cacti, aloe), as well as to leaf padded tuber and a bully, having a period of rest.

Most plants are watered in the summer abundantly, in winter - moderately. The main watering is better to spend in the morning. With each irrigation, the plant needs to give as much water so that it goes well with all the earthen kits and went to the saucer. If air bubbles are visible on the surface of the soil, watering is repeated until they are. It is not recommended to water every day, since in this case the water is witching only the top layer of the Earth, and the roots located at the bottom of the pot dried.

Typically, the plants are pouring from above, so that the excess excess of calcium, magnesium salts, and other elements contained in water, which adversely affects the root system, was absorbed by the upper layer of soil, which is less than the roots. Sometimes, fearing the appearance of spots on the leaves or rotting the tubers when the water is hit on them, the plants are watered below, pouring water into the saucer. Do not do this. The stains on the leaves can be avoided if used with warm water - because the spots are formed as a result of a large difference in the temperature of the leaf and cold water heated in the sun. Water from the saucer or kashpo after irrigation is drained so as not to start the roots. This is especially important to do in the fall and winter.

If water when watering does not succumb to the saucer, and it is stored on the surface, it is necessary to check whether the drainage hole was lit. Sometimes, on the contrary, the water very quickly flows into the saucer. This means that the soil is strongly overwhelmed, the water flows through the walls of the pot, not the time to nourish it. Such plants need to be very well to pour, putting them in a basin with a warm water so that it completely covered the pot, and spray with warm water. When air bubbles stop appearing on the surface of the soil, the pots are removed from the water.

Watering the plants you need water room temperature (18-24 ° C) or a little warmer. At low temperatures, the root system is low-active, so in winter it is impossible to use too warm water so as not to cause premature growth of the plant. In summer, plants are wrapped with warmer water (up to 30-32 ° C). The hotter in the room, the warmer should be water used for watering and spraying plants. Watering with cold water, especially in the warm room, can cause foaming of the leaves.

Water for watering should be soft, weakly acidic, free from salts of calcium and magnesium. It is not recommended to use rain and melt water in industrial areas, as it can have an alkaline reaction and contain impurities harmful to plants. More often for watering, it is necessary to use tap water containing chlorine, calcium and magnesium salts that adversely affect plants. The high content of calcium salts in water leads to the fact that the most important elements of nutrition in the soil (phosphorus, iron, manganese, aluminum, boron, etc.) are transmitted to compounds inaccessible to plants.

A few words about how to provide watering plants during vacation. Before you leave for a few days, put plants in the pelvis with water, poured on 1/3 of the porce height. If you are going to be absent for a longer time (3-4 weeks), fill the containers with peat or ground to a height of 15-20 cm, the insertion of the plants, it is pre-good watering them, and make sure of everything again. Plants should be put on the illuminated place, but not in the sun. There is another way of watering. Above plants are the vessel with water, from which the wool or cotton cord is lowered into every pot, well conductive water. The pot with a plant can be placed above the capacity with water. In this case, the second end of the cord is inserted into the drainage hole.

In the summer of dry, hot or windy weather, Bonsai usually watered twice a day (early in the morning or in the evening). If the weather is not very dry and hot, then once a day. In winter or cold, wet weather tree is less active and evaporation from the surface of the soil slowly. Therefore, they watered once a day if the soil does not frozen and the temperature is positive.

Falls of bonsai in summer need more water than evergreen, coniferous, having specialized leaves, preserving moisture. In winter, on the contrary, leaf falls consume less water than coniferous, which continue, although slowly, grow. Pines relatively painlessly transfer the lack of water in the soil, while large-scale decades, especially in hot weather, need abundant and frequent watering.

More conveniently irrigated by immersing the container into a water vessel, so that the water covered the soil surface. At the same time, the soil and the soil is not eroded and the soil is impregnated more evenly and completely. Whereas with watering from above, in case of drying up the upper layer, watering is difficult, as water can roll, without wetting the soil. To keep the container in a water vessel for a long time should not be, as the root system may suffer. Only some plants (for example, swamp cypress) do not suffer from long-lasting roots in water and soil moistening.

For watering, water can be used from water bodies, rain or tap water. Water water contains too much calcium and chlorides. It must be withstanding a day at room temperature so that chlorides evaporate.

Watering water should not be too cold or hot.

In addition to moisturizing the soil in the container, it is recommended to periodically spray the crown of plants with water. This technique not only cleans the leaves of the plant from dust, but also moisturizes the air, which is especially important to do as often as possible to maintain the moss coating in the container. However, it should be not allowed to overvoltage soil with frequent spraying. It is not recommended to spray the plant with bright and hot sun.

One of the most important conditions for the successful cultivation of orchids is the quality of water. Water for plants is not only a source of food and drink at the same time, but also the ability to adjust its temperature.

In nature, the plants use rainwater representing from their own hexual acid solution. But, unfortunately, it's no secret that in cities, no harmless liquid is pouring from the sky.

For orchids (and for other indoor plants) it is recommended to use soft or moderately rigid water. Measuring the water hardness procedure is not simple, so we will take for axiom that in St. Petersburg and in the Baltic States are soft, in Moscow moderately tough, in Kiev - very tough. The faster in your kettle, a layer of scale is formed - the fierce water.

The simplest way to reduce water hardness is its boiling - in which part of calcium salts falls into a precipitate. Well reduces the rigidity of oxalic acid (you can buy in chemical reagents stores, sometimes in flower shops, for example, I saw in the Nagatinskaya street). This is done like this: on a 5-liter cold water canister from under the tap, add about 1/8 teaspoon of acid (it is in powder). Water is defended during the day in the open dishes, it is better to even cut the upper part of the canister to increase the neck. Water should be estimated necessarily open due to the fact that, with a chemical reaction of binding salts of calcium, the volatile compounds of chlorine are formed, which should evaporate. After the day on the bottom, the canister drops an insoluble precipitate of calcium salts. The resulting water must be carefully, trying not to shake the sediment, merge into clean dishes. Just in case, I will never pour water to the end - somewhere the floor of the liter leaves, whatever the sediment fell. Canister should be transparent - it is more convenient to monitor the sediment. In my practice, if the acid with an acid defended more than 2 days. The precipitate ceases to stick together and merge clean water safely.

Another way is to immerse in a bucket with water at night a bag with a top peat - water is also acidified.

If you water the plants with distilled water, remember that it is desolate completely. Consequently, distilled water should be either mixed with the usual estate, or dissolve special fertilizers in it.

Iron water is dangerous for orchids even more than tough. Such water under consideration is muttered and has a tangible taste of rust.

Equally important condition for water suitability is its acidity. Sour water - the pH rate is less than 5 times is very rare. Alkali water is easy to acidify with a conventional lemon. If your water shows pH above 7-and (you can measure either PH-meters or a lactium paper - sold in chemical reagents stores), then dripping lemon juice you reduce the pH value to 6, and measure how much you need droplets to what volume Water current from you under the tap.

Properly cooked water is useful before irrigated by oxygen - To do this, it is necessary to simply pour a thin flowing from one container to another. The water temperature should be room or slightly higher. Phalaenopsis, for example, prefer warm water.

The easiest way is to either use filtered water, or water plants (including bonsai, and orchids) purchased water. The option is to buy special oxygen water, which is good for both people, for animals and plants, an example of such water - oxygen royal water, is sold here.

Watering plants is best just soft rain, river or pond water. Rigid water (including well) containing various salts should be avoided. Especially poorly carrying rigid water aid, azalea, orchids, alpathers, camellia. Well tolerate with rigid water, those plants that grow on lime soils are well.

It should be borne in mind that rainwater can be contaminated with industrial emissions if you live in an industrial area or not far from it.

Chlorinated water from the water pipeline defend at least a day so that Chlorine will manage to destroy.

The water temperature should be at least not lower than room. This is especially important this rule when watering tropical plants. Cacti It is recommended to water warmer water. Watering plants with cold water can cause root rotting, foaming buds and even the death of plants. On the contrary, watering the warm water of plants in the cold room is also undesirable, because This will lead to premature growth of the plant.

a source

Home plants need regular water consumption as well as all living creatures on our planet. The disadvantage or vice versa - an excess of moisture in a flower pot with a substrate can lead to fading of the flower, yellowing or appearing spots on the leaves, drying and the dejunation of leaves, damage to pests or diseases. Before you purchase a plant and place on the floor stand at the windowsill or on the shelf of the shelving among other species in your collection, be sure to ask what kind of variety it applies and find information on the features of home care - including that how to pour it right New 'Green Pet'.

Some loving plants even come with a lunar calendar to choose the most suitable dates for watering. In this article we will tell you how to organize watering room colors at home. Useful tips, photos and video materials will be especially useful for novice flowers, which are just beginning to be interested in the rules of care of indoor plants.

Below you will find practical recommendations that will help you correct the majority of popular types of home plants. We will look at issues as a choice of dishes for watering flowers, which water watering flowers, frequency of irrigation, signs of lack of moisture, watering methods, how to water orchids and other indoor plants during your vacation.

♦ Dishes for watering room colors:

Like with a long nose. Practical inventory - long spout can be easily directed through a thick crown, under the bottom leaves or right under the root outlet, so as not to drop the water on the delicate leaves of the flower. Very convenient inventory for watering plants in phytosten or in phytomoduls (vertical landscaping);

flask. Special device with an elongated tip and spherical container-container for water. Such an inventory is great to help you retrieve when you need to leave for a long time. It is enough to fill the tank with water and stick the splash splas in the soil, which will gradually be saturated with moisture as drying;

Spraying pulverizer (sprayer).
With the help of spraying with water from the spray, you can provide additional flow of moisture through the tops of the plant. This method will help you preserve the decorative quality of the plant in the summer heat or during the heating season, when the level of humidity in the room is very low;

Pallet with water. An excellent way to extract soil in a pot, if the room is too dry air. It is desirable to put a flower pot right into the water, but on a wet clay or pebble in the pallet.


- In the photo: Inventory for watering

♦ Water for watering room colors:

Rain, river, pond water. Some flowerflowers prefer to water the bedroom plants with melt and rainwater. Flowers react well to watering with soft water from natural natural sources. But it is necessary to disinfect water, add several pieces of charcoal;

tap water.
Most of the inhabitants of megacols watered their flowers with water from under the tap. But it is important to remember that chlorinated tap water with low-soluble calcium salts is very tough. Be sure to defend this water for at least 24 hours (and better - a few days) before watering colors, and the remnants from the bottom pour out. Water the plants with water room temperature or slightly warm.


- In the photo: signs of lack and overalling water

♦ Roofing frequency:

❂ The frequency of irrigation depends on different factors: a kind of plant, age and plant size, microclimate in the room, season of year (rest season or vegetation), as well as the material from which the pot (ceramic, plastic, glass) is made;

❂ Most indoor plants love regular and uniform watering so that the substrate is in moderately wet state. If the period of abundant soil moisturizing is drastically replaced by a period of insufficient moistening, the flower begins to crack and can die;

❂ In the winter period, many indoor plants slow down the processes of growth and development (or stop at all). The need for water with dissolved nutrients is significantly reduced and water should be watered much less often (or not to water at all). And in the spring-summer period, with an increase in the duration of solar illumination and increasing temperature, the irrigation frequency increases to 1-3 times a week;

❂ Plants with large and wide leaves are watered more often (Ficus Benjamin and Rubbone, Anthurium Andre, Spathifulum, Home Begonia, Gloxinia Sinningia, Gardenia Jasmine, Gerbera, Balzamin, Sheffler, Diffenbahia). The bulbous species should be watered moderately and less often, as the overvailing can lead to the rotation of the root system (Hippeastrum, Clivia, Amarillis, Calla Zanyadesquia, Oxalis, Hyacinths, Euharicis Amazonian Lily). Most species of potted orchids (phalaenopsis, dendrobium nobile) are watered no more than once a week in winter and no more than two times a week in summer. There are houses that easily carry long interruptions between irrigation (succulent species - a thickness of money tree, aloe vera or amecake, a triangular, Sygocactus, a Decembrist, as well as species like Calanechoe Blossfeld, Chlorophytum, 'Techin Language' or Sansevieriya);

❂ Ceramic (clay) pots have a good porous structure, circulation and evaporation of moisture occurs more actively. But plastic pots are well delayed water in the substrate. Therefore, water the flower placed in a ceramic pot is necessary more often than in plastic.

- In the photo: rare, moderate and abundant watering

♦ Watering methods of indoor plants:

❀ Upper watering. For watering the flower on top it is desirable to use a special dishes with a long nose (watering can, flask). It is advisable to guide the spout closer to the stalk so that the water does not fall on the leaves. If the plant has a developed sheet socket, try to direct the water stream under it so that the water is not stored. Water the plant evenly, in small portions so that the water is not stood on the upper layer of the soil. Whole dragging in the pallet water. This is a versatile way of watering room species. The disadvantage of this method - the useful substances of the substrate are quickly washed. Therefore, do not forget to feed plants on time.

❀ Lower watering. Some types of decorative-deciduous plants lose their attractiveness if water drops fall on the leaves (yellowish or black spots appear, the sheet plate is deformed). Therefore, water for watering is filled with pallet. Within 30-40 minutes, the substrate is moistened to the upper layer and all extra water from the pallet must be merged. The disadvantage of this method - mineral salts are not washed out on the contrary - delay in the soil for a long time. If a lime crust appears on the surface of the soil, then carefully remove it along with the top layer, adding a fresh substrate.

❀ Immersion Pot into the water. Very good humidification method, allowing the soil to be completely soaked with water. Lower the pot with a flower in the water capacity so that the water does not register into the substrate through the edges of the pot. Water quickly impresses all the layers of the substrate through drainage holes. Then place the pot on the lattice so that all excess water flows down. It is not desirable to use this method of moisturizing during the flowering period of the plant, when moving the pot can cause the extinguishing of buds and petals.


- Tables with factors affecting the abundance and frequency of irrigation


♦ Watering indoor plants during the holidays:

√ Vacation up to two weeks.

- the soil is abundantly moisturizing the immersion method of each pot into the water;

- It is desirable to swift the leaf crown and cut the buds of flowering plants;

- pots with plants on racks and stands to compactly arrange closer towards each other (this will increase the level of humidity around the plants);

- Pots immerse in wide pallets with wet clay (so that the water level is a pair of centimeters below the top layer of clay). Between the pots you can place wet moss sphagnum.


√ Vacation up to three weeks.

- perform all steps described above;

- Take the plastic bottles of 0.5 liters and do the holes in the twisting traffic jams. Filling the bottle with water, set them into the clayzit between the pots, immersing the tightly twisted covers with the holes down. As the ceramzit dry out, water will be seeded from the bottle dropped away;

- In every pot with a flower, immerse the special flask for watering (see above) nose down.

√ Vacation up to one month.

- On sale there are special pallets for autopolivation. The system consists of internal and external pallets, capillary rug. The external pallet is filled with water. The internal is installed on top and resurfaced the capillary rug. This rug gradually sucks moisture and gives plants stirred on it;

- Instead of a flask for irrigation, it is best to install ceramic cones with thin hoses immersed in water tank in each pot.


- In the photo: a ceramic cone with a hose for watering

♦ Useful tips for beginner flower water:

☛ Rare and whimsical plants are desirable to water the accumulated mineral water (non-hydrated) room temperature;

☛ If the substrate in the pot together with the earthen room is completely dry, then lower the pot into the container with a warm stretching water to the edge of the pot and place in ten minutes to place on the lattice so that all the excess water flows;

☛ After watering, be sure to drain all the water flowing into the pallet so that the roots of the room plant do not bother;

☛ Sometimes (3-4 times) during the growing season it is useful to water the flower with warm outstanding water (not salty!), In which potatoes were cooked. Starch helps to strengthen the root system and the development of the plant;

☛ If the plant during the flowering period began to actively impose not yet extended buds, then the likelihood is not enough that the soil is not enough or not regularly moistened (against the background of low humidity in the room);

☛ Try to water the flowers so that the drops do not remain on the surface of the stems and leaves. Drops of water dry and leave ugly stains, and also contribute to the appearance of burns. Yellow spots and burns reduce the decorative value of the plant;

☛ Some indoor species require abundant irrigation in the growing season. These plants include many species with leathery leaves (Robust's ficuses' and white de dumbbell, lemon tree, wax ivy hauy), as well as tropical varieties with bright and thin gentle leaves (Petunia, Calatea, Maranta, Croton);

☛ Less frequent plants with small fleshy leaves, which are in the period of rest in a cool room with high humidity, grown in plastic or glassware;

☛ If the water from the tap contains too much lime, it is desirable to skip it through a special filter to use soft water to watering;

☛ Never use cold water for watering, as this can lead to gradual die in the peripheral roots, the appearance of viral and fungal diseases;

☛ The most ideal time for the polishes of most indoor species is an early morning (with sunrise);

☛ In hot summer days and during heating it is necessary to spray plants from the spray gun. Near the plants, you can put a water container for additional humidification.

♦ How to water orchid at home:

❶ Water orchids can only be warm with soft water. Rare collectible and whimsical room types of orchids are desirable to water diluted with distilled water. The resistant water of medium hardness stirred with distilled water in proportion 1: 1. And too hard water stirred with a 1: 2 distilled in proportion;

❷ If orchid without boulevards, then water it after the substrate is completely dry, and the lower leaves begin to lose the tour and shrink. If orchid with bulbs, then water the flower after the bouches begin to shrore a little;

❸ During flowering, most popular home species (phalaenopsis, dendrobium nobile) watered very moderately 2-3 times a week. Watch the water in a pot around the roots, water has never been caught and flowed out freely from drainage holes;

❹ The best way to irrigation orchid in the summer - soaking the pot in warm watering water 10-15 minutes. Be sure to make the water completely left the holes at the bottom of the pot after soaking;

❺ How often watered orchid at home. Full soil drying is much safer for the root system than overflow. Most species can be watered with a frequency that is determined as follows: as soon as a completely dry substrate, the next day you can moderately pour a flower. But do not forget that the frequency of irrigation also depends on the following factors: the type of orchid, the growing season or the period of rest, humidity and temperature in the room, the composition of the soil, the pot (volume, from which material is).

How to moisturize the soil in the pot (on the example of room begonia):

a source

  • ✓ Plant with flaming leaves
  • ✓ Poinsettia - varieties
  • ✓ Poinnestetia care
  • ✓ Poinsettia: the right choice of plants
  • ✓ in color in a new place
  • ✓ Poinsettia - peace and rest
  • ✓ Poinsettia transplant to a new pot
  • ✓ Poinsettia from the cutter
  • ✓ Solving problems for care
  • ✓ Poinsettia Growing - Personal Experience, Tips and Reviews

The scientific name of Puancettia - Euoforbia Pulcherima, which means "the most beautiful". But we are this flower, really beautiful from Mokhai, we know under a different name - Puancettia. Such a sonorous and solemn name included in our tongue thanks to Joel Robert Puancetta, politics and diplomat, who served in Mexico.

This outstanding person was a passionate botany, a passionate plant hunter. The service in Mexico provided him with a wide field of activity, in search of new plants, he broke the whole country. In winter, 1828 near Mexico, he was struck by the bright flowering of an unfamiliar bush and crossed the samples of the plated plants home, to South Carolina, where he had plantations and a collection of plants in the greenhouse. After leaving the state post, he was completely given to his passion, engaged in the introduction and reproduction of plants, shared with friends with friends, sent to Botanical gardens.

Puancette made a successful career, became a congressman, but he glorified his name not professional activity, but how we would say today, a hobby. His name was given to an excellent plant, and by decision of the Congress

December 12 from 1851, when the diplomat left his life, it is celebrated as the National Day of Poinsettia.

Here you have to call another name - Paul Eckee. The leaving from the poor family of German emigrants in which children helped parents, selling bouquets of wildflowers, he turned out to be a brilliant marketer and entrepreneur. This man made Puansettia unusually popular in America, it was he who turned poinsettia into a symbol of christmas. December during the day in 1906 in the windows of the famous Boulevard Sunset in Hollywood were exhibited extravagant bouquets, highly evaluated by the discerning public, and the Name of the Christmas star had been established for the plant.

Scientists had to work hard to turn the Bust Poinsettia in a pot

At first, Puancettius was grown in the open soil, but Ekkki breeders managed to achieve, it would seem impossible: to turn a high wild shrub into a potted plant, convenient for transportation. The secret of technology has long managed to keep secret, until the 90s of the last century, the firm remained a monopolist, taking into account the second place in the world in profits from sales - after Dutch tulips.

A tradition to decorate Poansettia at Christmas at home, churches, shops, offices adopted many European countries: Spain, Germany, France, Holland, and in Canada and Mexico, as well as in the United States, celebrate Poinsettia Day. In almost every country where it is popular, she also has its own, popular name: in Mexico she "Flower of the Holy Night", in Chile and Peru - "Corona Anda", in Egypt - "Consul Daughter" (in honor of Puansetta Ambassador ), In Turkey, this is "Ataturk flower".

Poinsettia is not only decorative, but also useful in the house, due to the fact that it distinguishes biologically active substances with antimicrobial effects. So, the amount of streptococci is reduced by 50-60%.

In the homeland, in South Mexico, Costa Rica, Guatemala, this evergreen tropical shrub height of 1.5-3 m forms real thickets in half-directed and sufficiently wet places. His stem is slim, thin, branches straight, naked, branching is weak. Leaves on long stuffs are large, 10-12 cm long, rich green color. They are sowing and smooth, differently cut, but more often oval, with a pointed top. In some new varieties, the form of leaves resembles oak.

READ ALSO: Poinsettia flower - how to care

At the end of the autumn - the beginning of winter on Puansettia appear small inconspicuous greenish-yellow flowers, collected as it were in a handful. They produce nectar attracting birds. But the Poinsettia is appreciated at all for flowering, its main thing (and very bright!) - The top leaves, called bracts, which develop together with inflorescence and frame it with a decorative outlet. In shape and sizes, they are the same as the rest of the leaves, their bright red color is a fixture to pollination, it is needed to attract birds. The flowering period lasts about 2 months; When it ends, the bracts are pale and fall.

Poinsettius Aztecs, called them Cvellachchitil, was considered a magic plant, was used in religious rituals. The Indians believed that the warriors who had the heads in battle were gaining immortality, and the land went down to get drunk nectar from Poinsettia flowers. They had a legend of the goddess, whose heart burst into unhappy love. Blood drops, falling on the ground, turned into flowers, similar to the stars.

Almost half of the selling poin-nets are traditionally red. This color is presented with countless combination of shades: Fire-red Cortese Fayer, PeterStar and Red Daimond, Bright Red With Dark Grounds, Jester Ed, seeming velvety Sort Olympia, Bright Scarlet Sonor Fire and Saturated-Scarlet Frido and Galaxy, Rosovo-Red with White Strokes of the Sonor, Dark Red Frido Coral and Max Red, Almost Ralin Annette Hett Divo.

No less rich in pink gamma: Frida Pink gentle pink, miniature yarrow Pink El, Pink Ribbon Cremyozoa, Cortez Pink Salo-pink.

Extremely attractive hybrids of unusual marble color, for example, low, just 30 cm, Cortez Crim, Monet Twilight with stains and strips of different intensity, and Vinci with pink strokes, brighter than the main color. At the variety Jester Pink bracts with green edging, Marblestar and Silverstar Marble - with white.

No bloom, but painting the top leaf decorates polansettia

White Poinsettia is very elegant: Eczes White, Frido White, Compact Siliverstar White, White old, having shades of green. The variety of regina creamy-white with green streaks, Cortez White is an ivory, and Sonor White also with white streaks.

Original Pestry Poinsettia: Live with White Strokes Jingle Bells Sonora and Pink-purple with carved White edges Strozerry & Crim.

Another selection direction is the creation of bracts of an unusual form. Now they are very narrow or very broad, wavy, with carved edges. Poinsettia, called "Winter Roses" (Winter Rose), which are rounded, and large bracts are wrapped in a bud like the petals of old English roses. They are bred by English breeders. They are very similar to the variety of Harlequin Red with corrugated terry bracts, but he has decorating leaves. The most popular terry variety carousel Pink, gently pink with green streaks.

  • TEMPERATURE. Smooth, without jumps. Optimally during the growing season of 20-24 degrees. The lower limit of the temperature is 14 degrees (with a decrease of up to 10 degrees, the roots die), the upper limit of -27 degrees.
  • LIGHTING. During flowering and active growth, bright, but scattered, with the priest from the direct sun. Only light windows, the northern are not suitable.
  • WATERING. Regular. Does not tolerate soil moistening, but does not like and cut, after which it is restored with difficulty. Water room temperature, saturated. Hardwater is recommended to skip through the filter or boil.
  • HUMIDITY. Optimal 60-70%, air dryness is extremely undesirable. Humidity is raised by all possible ways: spray air around plants from the spray gun, we set pots on the pallets with a wet clay, use humidifiers.
  • THE SOIL. Nutrient, loose, well permeable for water and air. Acidness 5.8-6.6 pH.
  • Feeding. Liquid mineral fertilizers, including macro and microelements (molybdenum and iron is particularly necessary), such a concentration as indicated in the instructions. With a constant watering of soft water, culcium nither (1.5 g per 1 liter of water) is useful to raise calcium content.

Often, in European countries with Puansettia, they cost, as with a bouquet of flowers: lost sight - thrown out. They believe that it is easier to buy a new plant than to care for the old one. Meanwhile, if, knowing the development cycles of Poinsettia and some of its features, create the necessary conditions for it, it will delight the bright stars of bracts and the next year.

You need to choose Poinsettia in the store does not hurry, because the goods must be the first-class, brought by the sustainable supplier. From the quality of delivery and plant content in the store depends, whether it will please long flowering or will bring disappointment. Because these factors, about which we usually do not think and that may not seem so important, for poinsettia defining, errors cannot correct in the future the most careful departure. So we can say that the store also needs to choose, the sales and fairs are not suitable here.

So we are in the store. We go around the plant standing too close to the street door or in draft. "In cramped - yes not in the offense" - this saying to Poinsettia is not

Applies. There are much better than those specimens that they are not tight to each other, but separately, on the square and do not have packaging. If the protective packaging (it is intended exclusively for transportation) was not removed on time, and the flowers have long been waiting for their buyer, they could easily pour when watering. For the same reason, we will pass by plants that are waiting for their new owners in beautiful paper or cellophane.

The store needs to carefully pack purchased poinsettia. When heocoled, it will be impossible to return it to life.

About how carefully belongs to the sellers to plants will prompt and the rest of the substrate. Check if it is too dry or wet. Bustic, not embarrassed, twist in your hands. It should be with a short stem, lush, thick and even from all sides, not one-sided. If the bottom of the stem is strongly bare, it means that the conditions of the content have already been violated and the poinsettia lost part of the leaves.

To make sure that there are no pests and diseases, carefully inspect the leaves. They should look healthy, being saturated green color, do not have any stains. Slissed, drooped leaves during crude soil may indicate the beginning of the root rot. It is useful to look at the bottom side of the leaves to make sure that there is no blocker or aphid.

It is best to acquire poinsettia at the end of autumn, and not in front of the winter holidays - at this time the choice is already sufficient. And if you manage to buy a plant, which is only going to bloom, time to enjoy his lush look, will be plentiful. Therefore, pay attention to flowers, they should be still in buds. If the yellow pollen revealed and visible, it is difficult to say how much the bright color of the bracts will last.

Poinsettia brought to home needed with all attention to understand how she feels in new conditions. While the acclimatization lasts, it is suitable for a bright place and a temperature of 20-22 degrees. As soon as our unwitting will buy, we define it on the solar window. Lighting is required bright, but scattered.

The window should be warm if the windowsill is concrete, cold, you need some kind of stand or gasket, all windows with slit frames will have to be insulated. At the same time, it will not approve both the neighborhoods with the fatty battery or heater, so we move it away from heat sources.

In general, often drag poinsettia from one place to another is not recommended. During flowering, it is suitable for her temperature from 18 to 24 degrees. At 18 degrees, bloom lasts longer, at a higher temperature bloom in short, but the bracts themselves will be larger, although not so bright. The air is needed enough wet.

While the bracts will not get a painting characteristic variety, watering regular and moderate. To understand whether it is time to water our beauty, you just need to feel the substrate in the pot: if it is felt as wet, the soil particles remain on the skin, then it's too early, if in a pot dryer - it's time. During flowering, watering is abundant, but it is important not to leave in the pallet with unaptive water, after half an hour - it is necessary to merge it to merge so that the roots are not mocking. It is not usually necessary to feed the purchased plant, it has enough nutrients in the substrate.

It happens that a healthy plant with unconcelion flower has been acquired. The bracts from him only begin to be painted, but they do it too leisurely, remaining small and quite pale. Most likely, Poinsettia lacks light and nutrition. In order for it as soon as possible to turn into a bright bouquet, you can make it a shower and feed her fertilizer for indoor plants with a high content of phosphorus and potassium.

In February, Puansettia begins to gradually drop his beautiful colored leaves. At this time, it is slowly cutting watering and finish spraying.

Reducing watering, we pushing the plant to prepare for the rest period, and imitate the processes that occur in the places of its natural growth.

Poinsettia's rest period is pronounced brightly, losing the leaves, she quickly loses his Krai cell and turns into a non-sustainable type of bushing with naked stems. It rests approximately 1.5 months, from February-March to March-April.

Poinsettia should not put next to vases filled with fruit. Ripe apples, pears, melons, bananas highlight ethylene, destructive for colors.

As soon as the main part of the leaves is reset, it is necessary to shorten the twigs. How hard to trim the bush - depends on your desire and its height. Usually shorten on 1/3 or 1/2 height, and there should be 3-5 knots on the remaining "hemp" (they remain on the place of fallen leaves and are well noticeable). Weak shoots need to be removed at all. The cuts are sprinkled with crowded charcoal.

Poinsettia rest time is better to carry out in a cool room at a temperature of 18-19 degrees and with non-market lighting. If this is unattainable, let it be any place of moderately warm room, the main thing is to be dry.

Watering while leisure is meager, only the substrate does not save, you can simply spray the land in the pot.

In March-April, the plant wakes up, new shoots are started into growth. Usually there are too many of them, all they are not needed, so weak again remove and leave 5-6 the strongest. As soon as they grow by 10-15 cm, they are plugged, leaving on each 3-4 sheets. It stimulates the appearance of new twigs, poinsettia begins to strike. So the plant is formed until August and are obtained by thick compact bush. This month, the trimming is completed, because it comes it to put flower kidneys.

In the spring and summer, behind Puansettius, they take care of the same way as behind other bedroom flowers. As soon as active growth starts, it is put on the solar window sill again, defending against the direct sun, so as not to overheat, and burns appeared on the leaves. But if the bright lighting of Poinsettia is welcomed, then the heat is not, the temperature should not rise above 27 degrees even with good air circulation.

Fall first very neatly, little by little. Gradually, watering strengthens, to leading to absolutely, so that the earthen comes are well soaked with water. Between irrigations, he does not allow to disperse. Apply the humidity of the air to the state of the rainforest, saturated moisture, of course, will not succeed, but frequent spraying somehow help to survive heat. Starting with the revealation of new shoots, 2-3 times a month the flower feed the complex mineral fertilizer (for flowering plants).

In mid-September, the volume of waterings and feeding gradually reduced, while maintaining good daylight lighting and a temperature of not lower than 18 degrees. Lively in the summer on the balcony, most likely, have to be transferred to the house by defining a well-lit place, and as soon as the central heating is included, moisturize the air.

In order for Puansettia, the buds laid and painted bracts, you need a short day and a long night, lasting 14-15 hours. To do this, since the beginning of October, it is satisfied with "dark", covering in the evening with any light-tight material - a black polyethylene bag, a dense package, or attributed to the storage room, removed into the closet. If the darkening turns out to be incomplete and light will fall on the poinsettia, for example from a street lamp, then stains will appear on the bracts. Under the night cap hold about 2 months, but in the afternoon they put on the brightest windowsill. We gradually watered and fed. At the beginning of December, buds become visible, and the bracts begin to be painted. Now you can not hide Puansettia for the night. From mid-December, feeding stops, care again becomes the same as when buying.

In the summer of Puancettia perfectly feels in the fresh air. As soon as the constant warm weather is established, send it to the balcony or a veranda, picking it up, where it does not suffer from rain and strong wind. But it must be borne in mind that even on a glazed balcony, with a strong cooling, the overseas beauty will be uncomfortable.

Punsettia transplant once a few years, as needed, without reason it is better not to disturb it. In April-May, a slightly spacious pot is in a pot. Its diameter should be 1-1.5 cm more than the root com. The fact is that the root of the Puansettia system is small, it will not be able to immediately master the new soil, as a result after irrigation, the earth will remain too wet, which is fraught with reinforcement roots.

So, the root system is carefully examined, damaged roots are cut. If everything is safely, Puansettia is transferred to a new pot, trying to preserve the earthen com, befened with fresh soil.

You can buy universal finished soil for flowering plants and add large river sand to it. It is easy to prepare a substrate yourself, mixing in equal proportions of humus, peat, leaf and turf, sand. If all of the listed components are not, the composition can be changed by turning on it, for example, only peat, leaf (stern) land and sand (perlite) (2: 1: 1). Or compost, peat, sand (2: 1: 1).

At the bottom, it is arranged a drainage layer of up to 3 cm from clay or brick crumbs. A few complex fertilizers are added to the soil mixture, better existing granular. If fertilizers do not bring, then approximately 3-4 weeks after the transplant starts cautious feeding, first with a very weak solution. Within 7-10 days, while Puansettia is recovered from stress, they are kept in a half, wipes well, spray in the heat.

In nature, Puansettia is multiplied by seeds, and at home - only rooting cuttings. They are cut from shoots increasing in spring or early summer. To get them more, poinsettia after flowering is cut off, leaving 10-12 cm of heights and 3-6 strong kidneys, transfer to the place with scattered light. Water, once every 2-3 weeks feed, using half of the recommended dose in the manual.

As soon as the sleeping kidneys will be touched into growth, the temperature raise up to 25 degrees. The shoots give to grow, only when they are 6-7 leaves on them, cuttings that have 5-6 well-developed kidneys (nodes) are cut.

It is necessary to prepare to land on rooting the cuttings. First, 2 cm below the last node make the oblique cut. Then the cutting of 10 minutes was washed in warm water (35-40 degrees) to wash off the milky juice. When it stops flowing, cut off once again, making the slice now directly under the lower node. Washed with a napkin, sprinkled with unwrapped wood or activated pharmacy coal or just well sued in air. For better rooting, you can break down the cuts of rhus.

Sitted cuttings in small containers with a diameter of 6-7 cm to a depth of 1-1.5 cm. For landing, it is convenient to use transparent disposable plastic cups. They are suitable in size, and they will be seen when the roots appear. Plant into a wet loose substrate. This is usually peat and sand taken in equal proportions. Suitable and soil for succulents, which add the same amount of sand.

At first, the cuttings are loosely covered with plastic film, humidity at this time is needed high, up to 90%. The location is selected warm, with a temperature of 24-25 degrees and with scattered light. The cuttings do not watered, but only regularly spray the soil, but, attention (!), If the house is hot and dry, it will dry out very quickly - due to a small volume. After 3-4 weeks, strong roots will appear, after that the temperature is reduced to the level of 18-20 degrees. About half of the cuttings are usually rooted, and when using rooting agents - even more.

As soon as active growth is started, approximately 2 weeks after rooting, the plant begins to make a little to feed. In order for Puansettia better to close, shoots the shoots over the 5-6th sheet and regularly continue this work, forming a rounded thick compact chop. If you wish, you can give poinsettia the shape of the tree on a long "leg". So that the flower does not grew by one-sided, it is regularly rotated by 90 degrees.

Grown bushes are transplanted in slightly large tanks by transshipment using a mixture for adult plants. If Puansettia deems your care worthy, the next year will bloom.

If something poinsettte does not like, it always reaches the same: drops\u003e leaves. This can happen when the soil is overwhelmed or cutting the soil, with a duty of standing on a draft or in a too cool place, finding in too hot and dry room, with a lack of eight or watering with cold water.

The diseases of Poinsettia are rather 3 stable. In winter, the supercooling of the Earth's Coma on the cold window sill with abundant irrigation leads to the emergence of root rot. With this mushroom disease, the lower leaves lose their elasticity, yellow, are covered with stains, fall. While the disease did not go too far, we need an urgent transplant with a subsequent 2-3-fold treatment of plants and soil Fun-Dazol (2 g per 1 liter of water) after 3-5 days.

In the extreme case, for breeding, you can use shoots that remain after spring and summer trimming, although they are usually shorter than you need, there are few intersals.

The disease is sulfuric rotting is possible at low air temperature and excess watering. It is especially often striking poinsettia during coloring bracts, appearing in the form of a gray laid on the leaves and lower branches. All the affected parts of the plant are removed. If damage is significant, the processing of Fundazole or such fungicides as Topcin-M, readomyl, is also recommended.

With too dry air on Poinset-Tii, a red cobweb tinger is sometimes settled. To see this movable pest is difficult, it is only 0.1-0.4 mm in size, it dwells on the bottom of the leaves. You can learn about the appearance of the subtles in yellowish specks on the leaves and thin white cob. However, it is usually noticed when pests have already been spread. The leaves become dull, dry and fall.

The rescue of the plant begins with the wash of hot (up to 50 degrees) with soapy water (20 g of "green soap" or 20 g of household soap on 1 liter of water), especially carefully passed by a sponge on the bottom of the leaves. Then the land is tightened with the film and the plant is well under the shower. Usually 2-3 treatments are enough. The insecticides are most effective in the inseconomy (1 ml per 1 liter of water), Aktellik, Aka-Rin, phytodeter, are also suitable. To avoid troubles in the future, you need to follow the humidity of the air, trying to prevent excessive dryness.

Shield is another enemy of houseplants. Externally, it looks like a small, size of 2-4 mm, a dense pot, tightly sitting on a sheet or escape. Her body is covered with an oval wax shield of grayish-white or yellow. The shield and its larvae also feed on plant juice, braking their growth and development.

To save the plant from such a dangerous resident, you first need to neatly scraping the plaques manually, and then wash the entire bush with warm soapy water or wipe with a cotton swab, moistened with vodka or infusions, garlic, acute pepper or tobacco. A accuters are used from the preparations (2 ml per 1 liter of water) or other insecticides (Aktara, Rogor, Phytodener).

On the stalks of the stem, and with a strong infection and on the leaves, sometimes you can see something similar to the tiny bulls of cotton. This is a torment Cherver - a low-propelled insect of 2-4 mm long. Cherwe-Tsy and their larvae not only suck juice, but also injected toxic substances, with the result that the plant loses the leaves and weakens.

All visible injury of pests should be removed with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol, or wipe the leaves with a wet sponge. With strong infection, the same insecticides are used as against the shields.

One of the most common pests is white lika, small white flying insects, similar to tiny moths. The main harm to the plant is caused by larvae, spoiling leaves, but also adults are not harmless, being carriers of viral diseases. Acting the actor, kinmix, phytodeter, if necessary, then stronger insecticides - Talstar, confident. They can be alternating with Verticillin biopreparation.

Poinsettia, a beautiful winter-living room plant, gave me a son in front of the army. It was in early December. Then I gave myself a word that I would definitely be preserving a gift, although it was not particularly hoping, believing that after flowering it would rise - and we part with her.

Livala will be completely wetted, but water was not accumulated in the pallet. Bathing Puansettia from drafts and hot air batteries. From a cold draft, as well as from too cold or roast content, from pamping and excessive watering the leaves fall and slugging the top kidney. Even the touch of leaves to the cold window glass for the plant is detrimental. Poinsettia is very vulnerable - at the first signs of discomfort, it easily resets flowers.

As you know, the entire beauty of the Puin-Seth is in the bright (white, pink, yellow, spotted - for every taste!) Bracts surrounding non-obscure flowers. My poinsettia was painted in raspberry-red.

This compact branching plant with a height of no more than 50 cm blooms in December and looks elegant to six months. In winter, Poinsettia loves good lighting, in the summer - half.

In order for the light day to be no more than 10 hours, since September covered it with a dark paper package and held it for two months. Only at the same time she flources to the new year or Christmas, thereby confirming its second name - the Christmas star. A short light day and a complete darkness of a long night - the necessary conditions for staining bracts and blooming Pu-Antestetia on time. Best temperature mode - + 14 ... + 18's. Once I forgot to trace the light regime and did not cover the plant, but it still bloated in early April.

After flowering Poinsettia dumps bracts. The tops of the shoots I cut on 1/3 of the length, and the plant itself transplant the transshipment method into a more spacious pot, sleeping more.

When new shoots beat, some of them removed, leaving 4-5 the strongest. Cropped cuttings used for breeding. First of all, immersed them in warm water for half an hour to come out of Milky Juice (another name of Poinsettia -

However, the "asterisk" so conquered me with his beauty that I, having gaining experience in flowerflowers, kept the plant and now enjoy it blooming every year. And how my son was delighted when, returned in three years from the army, I saw the same flower, only grown and even more beautiful!

To keep poinsettia, I had to try pretty. First, immediately put the plant in a well-lit place protected from the midday sun. Regularly sprayed him and moderately on the more beautiful). Then the blade made a new cut under the kidney, removed the extra leaves and again lowered in warm water for 10 minutes. Put the cuttings into the cups with a sterile soil consisting of peat and sand, first moisturizing the tip, and then having saved in the growth stimulator type Korninal. Before boarding the soil shed. Sits at a depth of 1.5-2 cm, pressing the stalk with his fingers and the coverage of the crust.

As soon as noticed that the top began to grow, the coupons took off (about a month and a half). All this time watered the seedlings with a pink solution of manganese and ventilated.

When the plants were strengthened, made the sepure in the hope that the bushes would be more lush.

In the water, it did not try to root, but I know that this method also exists. In any way, the percentage of rooting is approximately 50 to 50, so for insurance every year all the cropped cuttings are planted.

Keep in mind that Milky Juice of Poinsettia is poisonous, so be careful - when leaving the plant, wear rubber gloves. And yet: Find the place to her, inaccessible for children and animals.

✓ Aztecs were the first to evaluate Puansettia. They used her red bracts as a natural dye for cosmetics and fabrics, and the white juice of the "Christmas Star" - for the treatment of fever.

  • If Puansettia dropped the leaves in aphus time, the reason is looking for in terms of content
  • Any soil for flowering indoor plants will suit her
  • In the summer of Puancettia perfectly feels in the fresh air. As soon as the constant warm weather is established, send it to the balcony or a veranda, picking it up, where it does not suffer from rain and strong wind. But it must be borne in mind that even on a glazed balcony, with a strong cooling, the overseas beauty will be uncomfortable.
  • It happens that Puansettia does not come to life after the rest period. The reason for this may be excessively abundant irrigation or, on the contrary, the cutting of the earth coma, as well as too low.
  • If direct sunlight gets, the coloring of the bracts is pale and is not restored

Fence and preferably to the plant belong to Europe.

The Spaniards, for example, consider poinsettia a holy night flower, bringing wealth and good luck in their home. In winter floral fairs, it is represented by sophisticated and elegant varieties.

Plants blooming in the dark months of the year, a little. One of these is the most beautiful, or poinsettia. All winter, beauty serves as a magnificent decor element. When flowering is over, the plant is cut off, stimulating branching.

From cut stems, you can grow new copies.

I replaced Puansettia in April. 10-15 cm long cuttings rooted in a mixture of sand, peat and small clay. In May, I sit on 1-2 pcs. in the pot in a diameter of 5-7 cm in a mixture of sheet, turf, humus and sand (2: 2: 4: 1) and put in the street

Greenhouse. In June, I transplanted into pots with a diameter of 9 cm. In July, young plants pinch. With the advent of lateral shoots, Puansettia transplant once again into the vases with a diameter of 12 cm and tapping to the peg (if necessary). All this time, plants irrigantly irrigate and feed the full mineral fertilizer; The optimal temperature during the growth period is + 20-25 degrees. At the end of August, I transferred from the greenhouse to the windowsill and control the light mode, since Poinsettia is a plating a short day.

Flowers Poinsettia from December to February. During flowering, the temperature reduces to + 16-18 degrees. - So bracts are painted most intensively. After the end of flowering (February-March), the "Christmas Star" comes a period of short-term recreation. I transfer to a darkened place, if possible in the coolness (optimally + 12-15 degrees.). Earthen comments periodically slightly moisturize. In April, we cut off on 1/3, I pull the substrate in a fresh substrate and put in a well-lit place.

Poinsetthy is called the "Christmas Star" for bright bracts: collected at the ends of the shoots in the "Stars", they paint just to Christmas.

Garden and cottage\u003e Indoor plants and flowers\u003e Poinsettia is the most beautiful (photo) - how to care

The base of the composition is one-piece slices of the crust. If the bark reached, the mixture for orchids is not sure: the moisture for the plant is consumed a lot, the air will pass badly.

The bark before planting orchids is pre-vested in order to better absorb moisture during irrigation of the transplanted plant.

Transplanting orchid during flowering is impossible. Experienced flowers consider the most favorable spring period.

Orchids behave differently, each capricious in its own way. New and already known hybrid varieties Disposable taking into account the maximum ease of care. But there are rules common to all orchids, which should be strictly followed.

  • Sensitive to drafts;
  • Do not tolerate hot, dazzling sun.

They prefer a bright place, but not under the right sunlight, otherwise they will get a burn, then the leaves will yellow and fall. In winter, there are blooming orchids closer to light, additionally illuminated by phytolampa. During this period of the year, most plants are freeing life, the period of bookmarking new shoots occurs.

a source

Watering is a necessary condition for the life of plants. Cultivation without watering is impossible for one plant, they all need water. Many watered their plants "how it will turn out", from the case towards the case, but do not wonder how to water the flowers. But in order for the plants to always look beautiful to watering brought maximum benefit for them, you need to know some rules watering home plants. So,

Water for watering plants can be an ordinary water supply, but estimated at least during the day. In order for chlorine, it is necessary to defend the water in an open container. Soft water for watering is suitable in the best way. Water water in most cases is rigid. Even tougher water from wells, it is not at all suitable for watering houseplants.

How to soften such water for watering? It is enough to boil it for 3 to 5 minutes. When boiling, most of the harmful salts falls into a precipitate, and water becomes soft.

It is undesirable to water the plants with distilled water, because It has no mineral salts necessary for plants. The exception is azaleas, garment, ferns, camellia, orchids and some predator plants for which watering distilled water is even desirable, because They must be poured only with soft water.

Water from the windows and from cylinders for watering home plants is better not to use, because The composition of it is not known to you, and such water can harm the plant.

Since in most cases, tap water has an alkaline reaction, it must be neutralized. If this is not done, the soil is overshadowed with time, resulting in the root plant of the plant. In order to neutralize an alkaline reaction of the aqueous medium, it must be slightly acidified. To do this, it is sufficient to add food citric acid into water for watering at the rate of 1 teaspoon of citric acid per 5 liters of water. Lemonic acid is added to warm water immediately before irrigating.

2. What temperature should be water for watering?

Watering home plants with cold water is unacceptable, because When watering such a water, the vessels of the root system of plants are narrowed, and as a result in their upper part, moisture and nutrition, the root gradually deviates and the plant may die. Watering with cold water of flowering plants can lead to falling out of flowers and barring.

It is possible to water the plants that are in the period of rest. This prevents premature vegetation and plant depletion. For watering plants, which stopped their growth for the winter peace period, use the water is colder than the air temperature, sometimes even water with snow.

In all other cases, the optimal water temperature for watering home plants is + 30-34 ° C, so water must be heated a little, even in the summer. Watering such water is favorably reflected in the growth and development of plants.

The plant needs to be poured throughout the volume of the vason in small portions so that the soil is soaked from above with water. It is necessary to water until water appears in the pallet. In this case, you can be sure that the upper, and the lower part of the root system will receive a sufficient amount of moisture. After 30 - 40 minutes, the water from the pallet is removed. During this time, the root system of the plant will have time to absorb that moisture, which did not have time to absorb during watering. It is impossible to leave water for a longer time, otherwise you can provoke the rotation of the root system. If the vase is big and it is impossible to raise it, remove the water from the pallet with the help of a fringe, sponge, moisture wipes.

How many times watered home plants - a question that requires an individual approach. The frequency of watering depends on the type of plant, the volume of the vase, the composition of the soil, the activity of the root system and weather conditions. On cloudy and cool days, the plants are pouring less frequently than in days clear and sunny; With dry and warm air in the placing plants, it is necessary to water enough than with wet and colder air; Plants in light and loose soil require more frequent irrigation than growing in a dense, heavy soil.

How to calculate watering? The best guideline in order to decide on watering is the embrace of the earthen coma. The signal of the need for irrigation is the drying of the upper layer of the soil by 1.5 - 2 cm. Succulent plants are watered after grazing the earth coma to a depth of 3 - 10 cm (the greater the container, the higher the soil should dry).

And what if there is no possibility to pour plants in a timely manner (for example, during the vacation period)? How to leave flowers without watering? Will they withstand such stress? How to organize watering correctly during the period of vacation or business trip, read here.

a source

None of the conditions of growing houseplants require so much attention as watering. It is necessary to control it round year. It is in this area that beginner lovers of houseplants make the most mistakes. They either pour plants with water, believing that in this way they will make them happy, or they generally forget that it needs water. As a result, the plant receives either too much water, or too little; And then, and the other can simply destroy him.

It may seem that all plants sufficiently moisturize a certain number of times every week. However, it is not. Each plant has its own requirements for watering - it depends on the magnitude of plants, the size of the pot, the time of year, temperature and illumination, the quality of the soil and the need for moisture inherent in the specific form. For example, in cloudy days, the plant needs less in moisture, but in sunny weather he needs more water. In the warm summer months of the plants need abundant irrigation, and they need less in cool weather. Even in stable conditions, the constant amount of water is not a guarantee of success, since the plant increases in size and, accordingly, increases the amount of water required it.

More often and richly watered:

✓ Plants B. clay pots;

✓ Plants with large or subtle leaves;

✓ Plants with thin stems;

✓ plants during active growth;

✓ Plants with a powerful root system;

✓ Plants with hanging stems;

✓ in the warm season and at high temperatures in the room;

Less moisture requires:

✓ Plants in plastic pots;

✓ Plants with thick leaves with wax raid;

✓ Plants devoid of leaves;

✓ Plants with thick stems;

✓ plants at rest;

✓ just transplanted plants;

✓ Plants with a weakly developed root system;

✓ weak and depleted plants;

✓ at low air temperature indoors;

✓ on cloudy days or with weak lighting;

✓ with high humidity;

✓ In the absence of air movement in the room.

For example, orchids from the kind of dendrobium watered no more than once a week

The experience of many indoor flower activity lovers has developed an accurate criterion: the plant is time to water when the earthen mixture in the pot becomes dry. The problem is only that the mixture that seems from above dry, remains moist in the middle of the pot. You water, thinking that the earth is almost dry. In fact, you overshadow it with water from the middle of the pot until the bottom, which is no less harmful to plants than the drying of the soil. How to understand what state is an earthen com: wet, dry or almost dry? Sometimes it can be defined "on the eye" and "for rumor".

The color of the earth mixture depends on whether it is wet or dry. Wet mixture dark brown, and dry or almost dry becomes pale brown and dim. One of the common techniques, therefore, is to water the plants, when the earthen mixture begins to pale. However, the assessment of the eye is not always reliable. When the mixture on most of the surface, the pot becomes dry, it can be wet at the bottom. However, for small pots can be assumed - if there is dry, it is dry, it is dry enough in the entire pot. You can determine whether plants should be water, just knocking your finger on the pot. If the earth in the flower pot is dry, the sound will be ringing, if the wet is deaf.

The easiest way to determine whether the plant needs in watering, is to try the soil in a pot with a finger or a wooden stick. Immerse your finger in an earthy mixture to the first or second joint. If the soil is felt as wet, watering is not required. If dry, then the water in the soil is clearly not enough. This technique is a reliable indicator of soil moisture in the entire pot, and it can be used for plants in pots height 20-25 cm. Avoid checking the moisture mixture with your fingers several times in one reception. So you can damage the roots of a small and gentle plant and thus bring it more harm than good. Check the soil moisture with your fingers is better at the appearance of the pot, and not at the base of the plant.

You can determine whether the plant needs in watering, just raising the pot. It is clear that recently polished soil mixture weighs more than dry. Plants in plastic containers growing in standard soil mixtures, after irrigation weigh by about two times more than dry. This is, of course, a rough estimate. The difference in weight depends on the type of pot, soil mixture and the material from which the pot is made. However, even plants in clay pots with a heavy soil mixture are noticeably easier when the soil dries. The use of the Weighing method requires some practice. Rim up a plant between watering several times to feel the difference in weight between pots with wet and dry soil. Then some time later you can easily determine the difference between a lighter pot when the plant is irrigated, and heavily, when it does not need it.

Watering the plants in large containers - more than 30 cm high - has always been a problem for fans of indoor plants. Plants growing in deep pots or tubs are constantly exposed to the risk of overvoltage. Fortunately, reliable and harmless devices have been developed to determine soil moisture in large tanks. You can find various soil moisture indicators. These devices measure the amount of water at a certain depth. Plug indicator plug into the soil about 2/3 lengths. The arrow on the scale will indicate "wet", "dry" or something average. Water only if the indicator indicates that the soil is dry. Keep in mind that the old, worn meter gives unreliable testimony, so it needs to be changed to a new approximately once a year. However, even a new meter can give an inaccurate estimate if the soil mixture contains many mineral salts. They can accumulate if you have irrigated the plants with rigid water for several years. In this case, the inaccurate readings of the meter indicate that your plants need to replace the old soil mixture to fresh.

In addition to the standard meter, there is a sound meter of humidity, it indicates when the plant needs irrigation, ringing, whistle or other beep. The sound meter is arranged in the same way as standard, but instead of the scale on the other end there is a sound transmitter. It costs about as much as standard. It makes sense to buy one such meter and keep it in a pot with a plant, which usually dries faster than others. When the indicator serves a beep, it is time to check the remaining plants with traditional methods.

Each type of plants need its irrigation mode. This information can be learned from the description of the content of a particular plant. There is a diverse, moderate and rare. Abundant irrigation is produced immediately after driving an earthen coma. Abundant watering is required by most tropical plants with subtle leaves. With moderate watering, the plants are watered not immediately after driving an earth's coma, and a day later, two. Moderate watering is required, in particular, plants with source and stems (African violet, peperomy, etc.) and thick roots and rhizomes (drazes). With rare watering, plants leave dry for several days, weeks or even months. This refers to cactis and succulents, as well as to plants during rest.

Strict irrigation mode for each plant to maintain not easy, especially if you have a lot of plants. Ideally, you should regularly check the status of the plant and water it immediately as soon as it takes. This method brings the best results, because in this case there is an alternation of the wet and almost dry state of the soil. Check each plant once every 3-4 days in one of the methods described above and water only those plants that are currently necessary. Recommendations in this matter can only be common.

It is better to water the plants bowl and gradually, the less often and is rich. The main watering is better to spend in the morning. With each watering, the plant needs to give as much water so that it is well moistened with the whole earth com and glass into the pallet.

Regular disorders of the irrigation regime affect the appearance of most plants.

The lack of water can be noticed on the following features:

Leaves and shoots become sluggish;

In plants with rigid leathery leaves, the leaves dry and fall out;

Flowers and buds fall or quickly faded.

With an excess of water:

On the leaves appear signs of rot;

The plant is clearly slower than growing;

On buds and flowers, mold appears;

The tips of the leaves become brown;

Feed up both old and young leaves.

When the soil mixture dries so much that it becomes almost crispy, a curious phenomenon is observed - the soil mixture refuses to take water. How many water you do not lily, the earth becomes slightly wet only on the surface. This happens because the potted pot is highly overwhelmed from the walls of the walls and slots are formed between the walls and the earthen room. When you water the cristed ground from above, water flows on these slits on the bottom and through the drainage hole is poured into the pallet. The earthlings will remain dry. Therefore, when the Earth dries too much, it is useless to water it from above. What to do? Pour the leaves and stalks of the plant from the shower. Fill the pelvis or other capacity of water temperature and immerse the pot with a plant in it, carefully giving the pot with a cargo (stone or brick) so that it is completely immersed in water. Then add a few drops to the water (no more!) Liquid detergent - This will help reduce the water-repellent properties of the underwent soil. About an hour later, remove the pot with a plant and give excess water drain. If the plant came to life (not all plants are restored after cutting), it will soon become juicy again. Consider - even when the earthen com will take its original size, a slight distance between it and the walls will remain. Fill this gap soil mixture.

If the excess water accumulated in the pot, it is no less dangerous for the plant than drought. However, in this case, not all is lost. Follow the edge of the pot about a solid surface and remove the pot from the Earth Koma. Usually, the earthen com is permeated with roots and retains the shape of a pot. Remove the damaged roots and wrap with an earth with a cloth or an old kitchen towel - it will absorb from the earthen koma of excess water. Perhaps you will need to change the towel several times.

Then wrap the earth com in the wrapping paper and leave it in it until drying, but do not overheat. When the earthen comes dried, plant a plant in a clean pot with a fresh earthy mixture.

Usually, flower pots Sell \u200b\u200bwith a pallet. The pallet is absolutely necessary - excess water flows into it. As a pallet, you can also use a saucer or a rush of a suitable size from any material. It is only important that the pallet diameter is not less than the upper diameter of the pot. After watering, it is necessary to drain the excess water from the pallet.

Drainage - the word French. It means an artificial or natural removal of excess fluid, as a rule, from the soil. In detailed flower growing, drainage uses the water to be stood in a pot. For drainage, ceramic trekking, gravel, pebbles or major clayjit are suitable.

A large shards are put on the drain hole with a convex side up, or the handful of shards are smaller, then poured a layer of coarse sand and the plant is planted on top of it. Because at hand there is not always a shard, it is easier to arrange drainage from the ceramzit.

If the pot is a hole for water drain, then it is necessary to put 1 cm of large clay on the bottom. If there are no holes, the height of the clamzite layer should be at least 3-5 cm. In general, it should be about a quarter of the height of the tank.

Although traditionally plants are watered from the watering can, there is another way - watering from below. With this method, the so-called capillary effect works - water moves from more wet layers to more dry. When the soil is almost dried, place the pot into the pallet with water, and the moisture will begin to flow through the soil and roots of the plant.

Watering from below, you simply fill the pallet with water. If the water quickly leaves the pallet, pour a little more. About an hour after an hour, all the soil becomes wet, and its surface will be switched from moisture. When the plant dresses all the water required to it, pour water residues from the pallet. Watering from below is preferable for plants with sowed leaves or with a lush outlet of the leaves.

Plants that you water from below better satisfy their need for moisture. However, at the same time, you will have to change the soil mixture more often, because in the soil it will be rapidly accumulating an excess of mineral salts.

Watering from above seems more "natural" way of watering, because in nature the plants get moisture from rain. On the other hand, no source of moisture is important for the plant, but the result is wet soil. Therefore, it is not so important, you water or below you. Watering from above, make sure that the water does not fall on the leaves. Many plants have very gentle leaves and stalks, on which spots appear from water drops. In addition, water drops in the light focus the light as lenses, and even burns may form burns on dense and leathery leaves. Therefore, when watering from above, be sure to raise the leaves or move them to the side so that the water gets only on the soil.

Plants in suspended caspets are often hanging quite high, and watering them causes certain difficulties. For convenience, you can buy a special watering can, which will greatly facilitate watering such plants. It consists of a plastic bottle with a long tube, which is bent at the end. There is such a leak at all inexpensive.

Plants are preferable to pour up with soft water, i.e., with low salts. If in your area the water is soft, it is quite suitable for watering. Stilly plant species can be watered with water directly from under the tap, but it should not be abused: such plants are not so much. It is better that water is about a day stand. During this time, bubbles of gases will come out of it, especially chlorine and fluorine. Fluorine is very harmful to indoor plants. For watering, it is also possible to use rainwater, melting snow and well water.

Rigid water contains many soluble calcium and magnesium salts. It is very harmful to plants. The surface of the roots of plants is covered with a skin, which works as a kind of filter.

It skips and keeps inside only what plants need. When watering hard water, the filter "clogs" - remember the scale on the walls of the kettle!. As a result, the roots begin to suck water and nutrients badly. Plant begins hunger. In such a situation, the increase in irrigation leads only to the reinforcement of the roots and the death of the plant. A sign indicating rigid water is a yellowish-white flare on the soil surface, a pot on the walls, and sometimes on the plants stems.

To mitigate the rigid water, wood ash is added in the calculation of 3 g (1/2 teaspoon) per liter of water. You can also add acetic or oxalic acid to water. It is necessary to do this very carefully by checking the pH indicator until the desired value is set (5.5-6.5).

Filtered rigid water, i.e., water passed through a desalting installation or a osmotic filtering system does not hurt your plants. Special cartridges for filters and tablets are produced to mitigate hard water - water softeners (so-called pH-tablets). If the described methods of mitigating hard water for some reason are unavailable, you can water the plants, especially delicate, boiled water.

Water for watering should be room temperature. It is better to even take water warmer by 2-3 ° C. Do not neglect this rule. Remember that, watering cold water heat-loving tropical plants, You can damage their roots and leaves.

Yes, there are such ways. First, this is the so-called spray pot. Secondly, plant cultivation in the hydroponic system. In both cases, watering will require your attention once in 1 - 2 months, and in the intervals of the plant will be provided with water automatically. In addition, there are substrates, such as hydrogel and granulates, which are capable of holding water for a long time and give it plants as needed.

Indoor plants are almost in every home. This is the best interior decoration. So that green pets grew beautiful and healthy, they need to provide correct care. In this article we learn how to care for houseplants.

General rules of care

There are so many different types of indoor plants. Each variety is characterized by its external characteristics and peculiarities. However, there are general rules for growing all home plants. We will analyze according to the items, as for them it is necessary to competently care.

Moderation

Most of the seeds of indoor plants is simple. Many of the green pets are distinguished by unpretentiousness, so they can be grown by novice flows. In any case, causing in indoor plants, it is necessary to observe moderation throughout. The necessary watering and feeding is required to be made without excessive diligence. The oversupply in liquid or fertilizer should not be in any case. And add them to be timely. If you do not comply with moderation in the care of indoor plants, you can encounter a lot of serious problems.

For example, the mooring of the soil often entails the rotation of the root planting system. As a result, the flowers can begin to hurt much, and subsequently risk perishing.

Compliance with the period of rest

Caring for indoor plants, you must not forget about the required period of rest.In winter, many famous varieties of domestic flowers go into a kind of "reduced energy consumption" mode. In such a period, there is no need for feeding. Watering and other caring manipulations should be cut.

Maintaining appearance

It is equally important to maintain a healthy and attractive view of houseplants. Required to remove dried buds, inflorescences, leaf plates and shoots. Listed manipulations will contribute to the preservation and attractiveness and health of plants.

Lained dead components, the flowers will not spend the vitality of the vitality, nursing unnecessary parts.

Control of diseases and pests

Each flower dealer knows that indoor plants are required Daily inspection. Thus, it is easier to monitor the state of green pets. Subject to regular inspections, a person can notice the originations that touched the plants in time. Most often you can notice on the room colors of damage to fungus or viruses. On time, the proper treatment will be more successful.

Set of tools

Any operations made to care for plants, be it watering, landing, transplanting or fertilizer is carried out using the appropriate inventory. Consider what it will be necessary for the flower for growing green pets.

  • Watering can.Buying this device, it is recommended to select options with an elongated nose. Using such leek options, watering is much more convenient and easier. At the same time, water will be able to break through even through the thick leaves of the room flower. With a suitable watering watering watering plants will be full and safe.
  • Flask. What this device looks like, everyone knows. The elongated tip of the elongated structure and the sprinkled water tank make the flask an indispensable object for automatic watering of room colors during the departure of the hosts. It is enough to pour clean water into the container and put it into the ground tip down. The soil will be drinking the necessary moisture gradually, as they dry.
  • Sprayer. The pulverizer can be used by causing not for all kinds of indoor plants. Some varieties do not need moisturizing sheet plates. But it must be borne in mind that with the onset of too hot days the foliage can still dry out that it will negatively affect the appearance of landings, so the pulverizer can be a very useful device.
  • Pallet with water. Most often this item is used if the indoor plant grows indoors with very dry air. Put a pot with a flower right into the water should not be. It is desirable to add clayjit or pebbles. These components will gradually absorb excessive moisture, transmitting it to rhizomes. The described method of care for flowers in the event that they are located in close proximity to the heating devices are especially in demand and useful. With the arrival of the winter seasons they will need a regular fitting of the lifeful moisture, about which the flower model should not forget.

All needed to care for plants inventory can be bought in special garden shops. Usually, such devices are inexpensive.

Indoor plants need to ensure optimal conditions of content. Consider in detail what flower water should take care of.

Place and lighting

Many indoor plants need sufficient lighting. Usually the duration of the daytime should be from 12 to 16 hours per day. At the moments when the plant is at rest, these time frames can be reduced. Since in our country, climatic conditions are not everywhere favorable, people have to often resort to auxiliary illumination (special lamps are suitable). This is especially true of thermo-loving tropical flowers that prefer to grow on the sunny side.

It is not recommended to exhibit room plants on the windowsill under the most straight rays of the sun. In such conditions, green pets risk getting burns. The sun should not be in excess. Ideal multiple light or light half-length - it all depends on the preferences of a certain type of plants. It is worth keeping in mind that with insufficient lighting, photosynthesis processes will inevitably slow down. This will negatively affect the health status of the flower.

Temperature

At home, the thermal-loving plants are most often grown, which will not be able to survive on the street. Such landings are needed warm, indoor air temperature in the room where they grow. Optimal indicators range from +16 to +22 degrees Celsius.

Even the tropical areas of houseplants "do not like" excessive heat. Do not try to create conditions in your home, too close to the jungle.Rare room colors "will like" the temperature indicators exceeding the +24 degree mark. And there are also such cultures that are better growing in a mild cooling situation (for example, at a temperature of +15 degrees Celsius).

Humidity

The main percentage of indoor plants refers to the moisture category. The level of humidity should be slightly higher than the average values. At the same time, it is not necessary to forget about the immediate origin of domestic flowers - most of them come from wet tropics. High humidity indicators have a beneficial effect not only in the state of plants, but also people.

Try to ensure that the air surrounded in room colors is dry. It will not affect their appearance and health in general. At the same time, the risk of pest attacks will increase.

The soil

It is important to take care of the use of high-quality soil for colors. Roomplants are no longer anywhere to take nutrients, except from the soil. In the soil should contain not only all the necessary nutritional components. The land should also have a suitable structure. It should not be overwhelmed or overly dense. It is important to take care of the drainage layer in a pot with a plant. The drainage layer is needed for almost all domestic flowers.

Pot

Modern flower products can choose independently, in which reservoir to grow indoor plants. There is a mass of suitable containers made from different materials: Pots, Vasons, Boxes. All colors dishes are divided into 2 types:

  • for growing - in such pots there are already drainage holes;
  • for decor - They mean kashpo, in which there are no additional holes, so they can be put anywhere, not afraid of possible leaks.

Indoor plants feel better in growing tanks. However, such tanks look much easier, with their help spectacularly decorate the interior can hardly.

How to water?

Growing favorite plants at home it is important to take care of their proper watering. Any cultures love moisture. In the conditions of a closed soil in a pot of colors, it is nowhere to get it, therefore a person should not forget about the timely fluid emissions. Some cultures are easily experiencing temporary drought (for example, succulent), but there are such varieties that begin to quickly wake, if you skip at least a couple of polishers.

The lighter of the drought is losing bulbous plants.They already have certain moisture reserves that are collected in their fleshy areas. But the flowers having thin stems risk perhaps the lack of moisture. The frequency of irrigation directly depends on the time of year, a certain variety of indoor plants, as well as the ambient temperature. In winter, in the fall and in cool conditions it should be less likely to moisten home flowers. Anyway before irrigating, it is necessary to make sure that the upper earthen layer in pots with plants is already reduced.

Loosening

To the top of the substrate, the white salt crust, as well as in order to increase the permeable qualities, It is necessary to regularly carry out soil.But you need to pay attention to the device root system of plants - If it is superficial, you need to show maximum caution.

Pruning and formation

Many of the beginner flower flowers that do not have rich experience are easy fear of trimming the room plants, considering it and complex and traumaous. But there is nothing to be afraid. If everything is done correctly and form a flower carefully, no problems will arise. Green pets will not suffer from this.

If you need to remove the growth point at the top of the landings, here you can use the simplest technology - topping. If the flower has thin stems, the sepitude is permissible to produce 2 fingers. If we are talking about a fleet of a plant, it is best to use scissors - it will be more convenient and easier. For trimming, you should always take a secateur, knife or scissors. Manually implement this procedure.

How to transplant?

The transplant is required by all types of indoor plants, especially if we are talking about young landings. They grow pretty quickly, so Transplantation They Need every spring in the first 3 years of life. Adult room colors frequent transplants are no longer needed. To replant them to another place is only possible as needed - depending on the growth rate, plant sizes and other circumstances.

At the time of indoor plants required An unscheduled transplant. Most often it is necessary to resort to it if there are certain diseases or a serious damage to hazardous pests. If there is too strong overvailing of the soil, the plants are better to transplant more, without expecting rotting rotting. If the transplant is planned, fresh flower pot selected by 2-3 cm. More in diameter.

Mature and slowly growing cultures are often transplanted into the same pot, you just need to change the earth in it.

Growth fertilizers and stimulants

Indoor plants must be fertilized by mineral balanced compositions. They must be saturated required components (from potassium to phosphorus). The use of high-quality fertilizers strictly according to the instructions will result in the overall state of landings, the root formation and rooting will be improved. Fit saturated means of type "corneser".

Liquid compositions should be applied according to the scheme: every 2 weeks during the actual growth (from April to September). Fertilizing candles are simply inserted into the substrate, where they nourish the earth. Granular components are laid out on the surface of the soil. The use of complex feeding needs many indoor plants in August.

How to propagate?

There are various methods of reproduction of indoor plants. We will analyze the most popular of them. Generative reproduction occurs with the help of landing new seeds in a suitable substrate.To vegetative methods can be attributed Shining. To do this, cut off the top of the plant's stem. The cutlets need to be planted in soil, water to water. Capacity is covered with film.

Popular breeding kids. They are separated by fingers, plant in the prepared containers from the ground. When young flowers are growing up, they will be searched on separate pots. The reproduction of a mustache is common. The algorithm of action is simple: from the ends of the shoots, the daughter's daughter proceeds - mustache. They should be planted into the moisturized land, if they managed to take them together with the roots. If the sample is taken without roots, the mustache rooted, as in the stinking.

Secrets of experienced flowerflowers

If you want your indoor plants to grow beautiful and healthy, it is worth arming a few secrets of experienced flowerflowers.

  • If you have decorative plants at home, and you noticed that their sheet plates sweetened, Returns them the former species will be possible with the help of a decoction cooked on the banana peel.
  • If you decide to plant a capricious plant at home, requiring more complex professional care, It can be completely secure from pests using a transplant to the soil in which 4 match heads are present.
  • If indoor plants suffer from hazardous shield or web tick. "Emergency" will be soapy solution (simple economic soap is suitable), diluted with several drops of medical alcohol. After processing on such a scheme, the landing does not touch the day.
  • Spraying plants It will become an excellent prevention of the appearance of a red spider tick. This procedure gives plants more. Rather than a simple humidification of air.
  • Carrying trimming Indoor plants, it is always necessary to remove too long branches and old stems, on which there are no leafy plates.
  • If you decide to grow bright tropical plants at home, it will be needed to provide such conditions that will be close to the natural one.