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» Sheathing of ventilation ducts with a metal profile. Finishing the chimney on the roof: a guarantor of the tightness of the connection

Sheathing of ventilation ducts with a metal profile. Finishing the chimney on the roof: a guarantor of the tightness of the connection

The part of the chimney protruding above the roof is exposed to negative external influences, so you should take care of its protection. Aesthetic appearance chimney must comply with the architectural concept of the building. In addition, the sealing of the roof around the chimney must be done well to prevent loss of functionality. roofing cake.

Finishing the chimney: the choice of materials

Among the negative factors affecting the chimney are:

  • atmospheric influences (wind, precipitation, ultraviolet radiation);
  • temperature difference environment;
  • high temperature workloads.

Due to the difference between the temperature of the working pipe and the air temperature in the chimney, condensate forms, which provokes the destruction of the pipe during the combustion of heating oil. To avoid the formation of condensate and protect the pipe from external influences, it is required to provide reliable insulation of the chimney due to the cladding.

For sheathing the protruding part of the pipe, various materials. When choosing, consider:

  • resistance to external factors, wear resistance;
  • appearance and color scheme(corresponding to the roofing or wall decoration of the building).
It is recommended that the chimney lining be completed prior to laying the roofing material to avoid damage or soiling of the roof covering.

Finishing the chimney on the roof is most often done using:

  • clinker bricks or tiles;
  • plasters;
  • cement fiber boards;
  • roofing material (corrugated board, slate).

Characteristics of finishing materials

Clinker bricks or tiles are a practical option for finishing the chimney, since dirt is not noticeable on such material. The advantages of clinker materials also include the aesthetics of the masonry; such a chimney goes well with any type of roofing. It is worth noting the resistance of tiles and bricks to weather conditions, temperature differences, as well as the strength of the material. For lining the chimney, only solid clinker bricks are used, laid on a clinker mortar, special compositions are used for grouting. Thin, light clinker tiles are usually used for lining tall pipes.

Finishing the chimney on the roof with plaster is characterized:

Plastering of pipes is carried out using the same technology as the finishing of facade walls. Can be used with traditional cement or lime cement mortar, but a more durable option is to use mineral, silicone, silicate or acrylic plaster. Painting the dried surface increases the wear resistance and durability of the finish.

Small format fiber cement boards are durable, resistant to ultraviolet, moisture, temperature fluctuations, and are light in weight. It is an environmentally friendly, non-flammable material. For lining the chimney, you can use smooth or structured plates, the material is on sale in a wide range of colors.

If slate is used for roofing, the chimney lining on the roof is usually made from the same material. Slate slabs can be in the form of an arc, scale, rectangle or octagon. The color of this natural material depends on the deposit. It is usually graphite, green or magenta in color.

Fairly simple and a budget option pipe finishing - the use of corrugated board. It is used if the roof covering is made of the same material. A chimney finished in the color of the roof looks aesthetically pleasing.

Prefabricated chimney elements for the roof passage have an aesthetic appearance and are quite easy to install. They are equipped with a steel chimney channel and can have a ready-made external cladding made of any material, or be prepared for independent finishing so that the chimney harmonizes externally with the roof. Modular steel structure additionally does not get off, it is enough to mount it at the place of passage through the roofing pie.

Roof chimney waterproofing

When making a passage through the roof, it is important to comply with SNiP standards. Between the elements of the roof and the chimney, a gap should be left, the size of which is regulated by the documents. At the place of passage through the roof, a box (wooden or galvanized metal) is usually mounted, in which all the free space around the pipe is laid with non-combustible material - stone or glass wool.

Sealing the chimney on the roof can be done using improvised means or using unified elements. Around the chimney, a so-called collar should be made, or a salary - a finish made of metal strips, about 40 cm wide, in accordance with the dimensions of the pipe. The bending angle of the steel strips must correspond to the angle of passage of the chimney through the roof. To calculate the length of the section, you need to take into account:

  • slope angle;
  • chimney dimensions;
  • chimney type.

If the salaries are made of galvanized sheet, then they are interconnected with an overlay and soldered. The steel sheet elements are joined by a double standing seam. The lap seam connection is used to seal the passage assembly on roofs made of corrugated boards and tiles. If the angle of the roof slope is more than 30 degrees, a special beam should be installed behind the chimney - a “bumper” that will protect the pipe from rainwater flows and excessive snow pressure in winter.

The protective elastic apron for the chimney can be made:

  • from a flexible metal tape (lead or aluminum);
  • made of galvanized metal with a polymer coating.

The apron is installed around the pipe in two layers around the entire perimeter. The bottom layer of the apron is placed under the roofing, and the top layer is mounted on top of the roofing material. To close the top layer of the apron, a waterproofing film and metal profiles are used.

The top folded edge of each apron must fit into a groove cut along the perimeter of the chimney. After mounting the edge into the groove, the joint is filled with polymer sealant or silicone for the roof.

Ready solutions

The sealing of the chimney on the roof is a rather difficult task, the quality of the solution of which depends on the reliability of the thermal and waterproofing of the roof. You can make the passage assembly yourself, using various materials and special strips, or mount a finished structure, which includes a wide protective apron.

Ready-made roof cutting on the construction market is presented in many versions - the models differ in material and manufacturing method, as well as the angle of inclination of the element that protects the place where the pipe passes through the roofing pie from water. The angle of inclination can be from 15 to 55 degrees, therefore, the cutting of the chimney on the roof is designed for the most popular slope slope options.

For the installation of such a design, a hole of the appropriate size is made in the roofing pie. A seal made of rubber is attached to the structure from the outside with the help of silicone. The distance between the pipe and the collecting passage is filled non-combustible insulation. The roof penetration covers the passage assembly, after which the penetration can be attached to the roof with self-tapping screws. It is recommended to use a sealant to seal the connection.

When choosing the option of how to close the chimney on the roof, you can use other turnkey solutions, for example, roof penetrations master flash.


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Self-finishing chimney on the roof in 3 versions

Many people think that finishing the chimney on the roof is needed only for beauty, this is partly true, but the aesthetic component is far from being in the first place here. Covering is primarily for protection. chimney, both internally and externally. Next, we will analyze the 3 most popular ways of arranging a chimney, plus you will find out why this is necessary and how to sheathe a pipe with your own hands.

Why trim the pipe

There are at least 3 reasons why it is necessary to finish the chimneys on the roof:

  1. High temperatures, on the one hand, and cold air, on the other, cause condensate to settle on the inner surface of the pipe. But this is not just water, the condensate is an aggressive acidic cocktail that gradually corrodes the pipe. External insulation shifts the dew point inside the insulation and eliminates the appearance of condensate;

  1. 222222 If a solid clinker brick or stainless steel pipe was used for the construction of the chimney, then these materials are not afraid of weather troubles. While ordinary brick without external protection will begin to crumble in a couple of years, steel will rust and concrete will crack;
  2. In addition to the strength of the chimney, there is also such an important point as the rain protection of the roof itself. If the sealing of the pipe connection sector with the roof was poorly done, then in a year the insulation will become unusable, and the wooden truss system will begin to deteriorate.

Standards and possible finishes

The chimney system, as, indeed, all furnace facilities, are important fire hazardous objects, respectively, all aspects of the arrangement are strictly regulated.

Norms and rules

All important points concerning the arrangement of heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems are described in detail in SNiP 41-01-2003. The work is quite voluminous, so I will retell only those rules that apply to chimneys:

  • The ignition temperature of thermal insulation and finishing materials pipes should be 20 ºС higher than the maximum temperature of the chimney outside, but ideally it is desirable to line the chimney with non-combustible materials;
  • Sheathing the pipe with metal is allowed, but the metal must have an anti-corrosion coating;
  • The brick pipe must have walls with a thickness of 120 mm or more;
  • Concrete chimneys in private houses are rarely mounted, but if you decide to install such a pipe, then the concrete must be reinforced, heat-resistant and have a wall thickness of 60 mm or more;
  • The minimum gap between the chimney and the wooden roof sheathing is from 130 mm;
  • For ceramic chimneys, not protected by thermal insulation, the gap between the pipe and wooden structures roofing is from 250 mm;

How to trim a chimney

Illustrations Recommendations

Clinker tiles.

The above-mentioned clinker brick is a good thing, but expensive. Therefore, many lay out a pipe from ordinary bricks, and line it with clinker tiles on top.

The material is able to withstand any vagaries of the weather, plus such tiles can be tiled not only in chimneys, but also in the stoves themselves inside the house.


Plaster.

The option is not as durable as clinker tiles, but if a reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass or galvanized metal is fixed on the surface of the pipe, then the plaster will hold well.

But keep in mind, not everyone is able to plaster the surface with their own hands while standing on the slope of the roof.

Siding.

For lining the chimney, you can use any type of siding, except for plastic.

Both metal and cement siding work equally well for chimney liners. Furthermore, given material mounted on the crate, which means that it is possible to lay a heater under it.


Decking.

Finishing chimneys with corrugated board is now one of the most common. This option harmonizes especially well with metal tiles.

But if you choose a color, then steel chimneys on roofs made of slate, ondulin or ceramic tiles will also fit into the overall design.


bituminous tiles.

Since the material is produced with the addition of bitumen, it is strictly forbidden to trim a real chimney with it.

In this case, we can only talk about installing a decorative cocoon made of fire-resistant plywood around the pipe, on which bituminous tiles are stuffed.
But this option is only suitable for sandwich pipes equipped with a spark arrester head.

Three options for self-arrangement of the chimney outside

There are 3 options where a person without special training can do everything with his own hands. The first option concerns brick pipes, which do not need lining, but you need to seal the joint with the roof. After that, there is a frame version and a version with ready-made factory solutions.

Option number 1: we equip a brick pipe

The waterproofing of the pipe on the roof must be carried out before laying the roofing material. If the roof is already lying, then it will have to be partially disassembled. The entire perimeter is removed by 50-70 cm around, plus you need to remove the lower part of the roof from the pipe to the edge of the slope.

Of the materials, we need a wall-mounted metal profile. It can be bent from galvanized steel with your own hands or bought ready-made. The profile consists of 4 parts, which are superimposed on each other during installation.

It is definitely better to buy an outer apron for a pipe, and it is advisable to buy it together with roofing material, it is easier to choose a color.

The so-called tie is a sheet of roofing iron with sides bent on the sides. It is laid from the bottom of the pipe to the edge of the slope and is wound under the lower section of the wall profile.

In order to hermetically connect a brick pipe with a wall profile, we need to cut a groove with a grinder on the pipe with a depth of about 20–30 mm. The bent edge of the profile is inserted into this strobe.

Next, we insert the bent edge of the profile into the strobe and fill the strobe with sealant. After that, we fix all 4 parts of the profile and a tie wound from below with self-tapping screws with press washers. On top of this whole structure is laid roofing material.

The upper apron is attached to the pipe with self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter. On the pipe, it must go at least 100 mm. The lower part of the apron is often made of soft bituminous materials. It is pressed around the corrugated roof and glued to this roof with mastic or special glue.

The scheme works something like this: the top apron removes the main amount of moisture from the pipe, but if this barrier did not cope with its task and moisture got under the roof, then the wall profile will collect it and the water will drain down the tie from the roof.

Option number 2: mounting the frame

This method is well suited for insulating and lining the chimney with corrugated board, siding and other similar materials. To begin with, the base is sheathed with a metal profile, later we will mount the corrugated board on it. The frame is best made from a wall profile for drywall, it is wider than the ceiling.

It is not difficult to work with a metal profile, but if you are not confident in your abilities, then you can build a frame from wooden bars. Truth wooden frame it will be necessary to soak well with flame retardants, antiseptics and water-repellent composition. Between the slats of the frame, to insulate the pipe, slabs of dense mineral wool are laid.

Decking or any other sheet material is screwed to the frame rails with self-tapping screws with press washers. The whole structure is crowned with an umbrella to protect against rain.

Option number 3: ready-made solutions

FROM round pipes now there are no problems at all. Special flexible aprons are produced for them. From experience, you can mount such an apron in a maximum of a couple of hours. Photo instructions for installing such an apron are given below.

  1. Choose the pipe diameter you need and cut a hole in the soft polymer cone;
  2. Pull the cone onto the pipe, the connection should be tight;
  3. Compress the lower soft metal ring in the shape of the roof;
  4. Thickly lubricate the perimeter under the ring with sealants;
  5. Screw the ring to the roofing material with self-tapping screws with press washers.

Conclusion

It is rather problematic to talk in detail about all the methods of finishing chimneys in one publication, so I tried to pick up for you the 3 most accessible for home master option. If after reading the article and watching the video in this article you still have questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

An integral part modern houses is the chimney on the roof. On the roofs residential buildings there are at least three varieties of such structures: smoke ( heating equipment, stoves, fireplaces), ventilation ( natural ventilation premises - kitchen, bathrooms, basements and so on) and ventilation of plumbing risers. When finishing pipes on the roof, it is obligatory to seal the junction of the roof covering and the vertical surface, to protect the channel and structural material from atmospheric precipitation and, if necessary, to insulate the chimney. The aesthetic design of these exits is also important. How to make a pipe on the roof, how to properly sheathe and protect it - these are the first questions that people who are going to start arranging the roof of their house ask themselves.

How to install the pipe on the roof in the best way? The optimal place for such a structure on the roof is the ridge as the highest point. Here there will be maximum traction, and it is much easier and more reliable to equip waterproofing. The farther from the ridge the chimney is, the higher it should be. The shape of the roof pipe should be considered from the side of its aerodynamic qualities. The caps installed on the head of the structure slightly reduce its traction. So they try to raise the chimneys located on the roof more than once above the common cap. It is also worthwhile to understand that any protruding parts of the pipe sheathing will interfere with the normal ventilation process. The best is the narrowing of the structure upwards, while the cap should not be too low and large.

To ensure good traction, the pipe head should not be made with a large expansion. If it is necessary to bring a single ventilation outlet above the roof, it will be most rational not to bring the brickwork to the roof, but to use a standard plastic ventilation outlet or a metal outlet that is included with most modern species roofs.

Important! Conventional ventilation outlets on the market today are quite reliable, have good tightness and attractive appearance. They provide protection against precipitation and can be adjusted in height. For single channels of most types of roofs, these products are excellent.

Sealing masonry pipes on the roof

When arranging the roof, bypassing the pipe on the roof must be done very carefully. The outlet of the vertical pipe to the roof must first of all be airtight. Taking into account new waterproofing technologies, the brick pipe of the house can be laid out absolutely straight without ledges. Regardless of the type of roof, all films under it or materials for waterproofing must be brought to the brickwork before the installation of the roof. Bituminous materials are not wrapped on chimneys; elastic non-combustible tapes must be used here.

A protective apron is arranged around the pipe. It can be made from galvanized metal coated with a polymer composition. If necessary, a flexible sealing tape is laid under the apron. These tapes can be purchased together with the roof covering or separately, they color palette wide enough. They are made on the basis of aluminum foil with a self-adhesive layer of polymer-bitumen materials. The optimal material for the chimney apron is a combination of metal and airtight flexible tape. In the lateral and lower parts of the structure, the apron should be placed above the roof covering, while on top it must be brought under the cover. Regardless of the method of fastening, the junction of the apron to the masonry must be sealed. Transparent silicone sealant works well for this.

Materials and methods of sewing pipes

How to get around the pipe on the roof, the better to frame it and how to securely fasten the materials in this case is a very serious issue. Sewing of the structure is carried out in the following cases:

  • With a high pipe height, there is no normal traction. In this situation, it is necessary to place a layer of insulation under the lining, usually for chimneys they use basalt wool because of its fire resistance.
  • The masonry is made of poor quality bricks and there are fears that the material will collapse under the influence of weather conditions.
  • In the absence of the possibility of removing a brick pipe, only light plastic air ducts are removed. A strong frame is being built, communications are passed through it, and everything is pre-sheathed with insulation from the outside.
  • aesthetic considerations.

For sewing such structures, various materials and methods are used, which are worth considering in more detail:

  • The most inexpensive and fairly accurate material for sewing today is galvanized metal coated with a polymer.
  • It is often very convenient to use a galvanized profile for gypsum boards; insulation fits perfectly between the profiles.
  • Under any type of sewing, you need to make a frame to secure the material and install insulation. You can assemble such a frame from wooden beam, pre-treated with an antiseptic, or metal. The frame for chimneys is made only of a metal profile, the dowels must also be made of metal.
  • Metal sheathing for the chimney is a fairly cheap and neat option.
  • Sometimes pipes are sewn up with siding, but this is only suitable for ventilation.
  • On a roof made of flexible tiles, it is appropriate to line the pipe with the same material. This decision also not suitable for chimneys due to the combustibility of the product.

Important! The connection to the metal tile pipe made in accordance with all norms is very important. Bypassing the pipe with metal tiles should solve two main tasks: to prevent water from entering the dwelling and to properly remove water flowing down the roof.

Facing and caps on pipes

For lining pipes, artificial or natural stone is often used. But this is far from always practical, because such a cladding can easily fall off a low-quality brick, and a brick good quality and it looks quite acceptable. In addition to the adhesive composition, reinforced heavy cladding is fixed with the help of hardware - they are fixed with metal brackets from the edges or dowels directly through stone slabs.

The function of protection against precipitation and animals on the pipe heads is performed by special caps. This design impairs traction, so its dimensions should not be too large, less than 15 cm distance from the bottom of the cornice to the top of the pipe should not be done. The materials and shape of the caps are very different. They also protect communications from birds by placing a protective grid or mesh in the openings.

Important! If the chimney is located next to the ventilation ducts, it must be led out above the common cap.

It is necessary to finish the chimneys on the roof in compliance with all relevant standards. Gases coming out of chimneys usually have elevated temperature, if these are chimneys and chimneys, chimneys of boilers operating on liquid or solid fuels. Some modern gas boilers, especially condensing ones, have gases so cooled that they can be considered absolutely safe from the point of view of ignition. But for any type of chimney, sufficient draft is a must. Often now used stainless steel chimneys with thermal insulation inside can be brought to the roof without brickwork by using a metal apron.

The correct choice of facing material for the pipe should take into account the roofing - metal roofing, like all other materials, has its own nuances. If before that you did not have to install pipes on the roof, they did not have to bypass or sew, then it is better in this situation to use the services of professionals to achieve the optimal construction result.

In order to bring the chimney or ventilation pipe to the roof, a hole is made in the already finished coating, so a gap is inevitably formed at the passage. No matter how great the skill of the roofer, it will not be possible to avoid the appearance of a gap. This article will tell you how to seal a pipe on a roof to achieve a complete joint tightness and isolate the elements. roof frame from rain or snow.

To bring the chimney through the roof, they cut out a larger diameter in it, so a gap remains between the walls of the chimney and the roofing material. Regardless of the width of the gap, it is a big problem faced by homeowners, builders. To eliminate this defect and protect the under-roof space from the penetration of atmospheric moisture, use seals, aprons, collars, made by hand or purchased. An unsealed gap between the roof and is fraught with the following consequences:

Important! The method of sealing the gap between the pipe and the roof depends on its size, the type of roofing material used and the shape of the chimney. If the distance is less than 5 mm, it is quite possible to get by with a silicone-based heat-resistant sealant. You can close the gap, the width of which is 1 cm or more, using cement mortar, an apron, and a special sealant.

Termination with mortar

To seal the gap between the slate or tile coating, use a moisture-resistant cement mortar and a decorative collar. This is the most affordable way with your own hands isolate the attic and rafters from moisture. This requires dry mortar, water, a mixing container, steel corners and a collar. Installation work are performed in the following order:

Important! In order for the construction to turn out to be reliable and not collapse at the first serious downpour, high-quality waterproof cement is used. Otherwise, cracks will appear on it, through which water will flow inside the rafter frame.

Sealing with a steel apron

In order to close the gap between the chimney pipe and the roofing material on roofs made of metal tiles and corrugated board, special aprons are used to close the gap between the chimney pipe and the roofing material. They are made of galvanized steel in the color of the roof in the form of additional elements. With the help of them, it is possible to reliably and aesthetically isolate the gap, for this they act in the following order:

  1. Lay waterproofing strips 30 cm wide along the perimeter of the pipe, turning the edges up, fixing it on the wall with a sealant or adhesive tape.
  2. To close the gap at the exit of the chimney, metal wall profiles are used. The lower mounting shelf is tucked under the roofing material and fixed to the rafters with silicone sealant with a moisture-resistant composition. The top shelf is attached to the pipe wall.
  3. Install decorative textures made of galvanized steel with a polymer coating. It is a set of additional elements that are overlapped with each other and fastened with self-tapping screws to the pipe and roofing material.

Important! The apron can be made with your own hands from sheet steel. However, factory products look more aesthetically pleasing and presentable. When working on the roof, special roofing screws are used as fasteners, equipped with a rubber headband, which, when twisted, flattens out, closing the hole from water penetration. If there are no such screws at hand, gaskets are cut out of rubber, using them with ordinary self-tapping screws.

Seal with rubber aprons

Building stores for sealing gaps in the places where the pipe passes through the roof of any material suggest using Master Flash rubber aprons or Wakaflex sealing tapes:


Note! To eliminate gaps big size they are pre-tamped with a fibrous compactor, and then poured bituminous mastic or fill mounting foam. After that, the place of passage is decorated with a decorative collar. Please note that the collars are produced with a standard angle, which is selected in accordance with the slope of the roof slope and the diameter of the chimney.

The main condition for the long operation of the roof is the maximum tightness, which is achieved by isolating even minor gaps. Whatever method of termination you choose, remember that reliable protection against moisture penetration is more important than an attractive appearance.

Video instruction

The part of the pipes that rises above the surface of the roofs is constantly exposed to external loads, so they need to be protected. To prevent a decrease in the functionality of the roofing pie, the roof should be sealed with high quality. Also important is the appearance of the pipes, which must correspond to the architectural appearance of the household.

On each roof of a private house, you can see several types of pipes - smoke and ventilation. Finishing the pipe on the roof involves the implementation of mandatory sealing at the points of contact roofing with vertical surfaces, protection of channels from precipitation and thermal insulation of the chimney. In addition, the aesthetic design of the exit points to the roof matters.

Where should the pipe be located on the roof

According to professionals, the place where the pipe goes to the roof should be as high as possible. The ideal solution is a ridge, as this is the highest point on the roof. Here, the thrust will be maximum, and the installation of waterproofing is easier.

Chimneys can have a very intricate shape. An example is the roof of the castle of Chambord, located on the Loire. It is a real masterpiece, because it has a large number of incredibly beautiful chimneys.

The shape of the pipes affects the aerodynamic characteristics. The caps installed on their head slightly reduce the traction force. Any protrusions on the casing of the pipes, located in their upper part, prevent the creation of a normal level of ventilation.


The ideal shape of the pipe is considered to be a design that tapers upwards, while it is necessary to install a not too large and low cap on it. To maintain traction force, there should not be a large expansion on the pipe head.

Often there is a need to bring a single ventilation pipe above the roof. For example, ventilation coming from sewer riser should be posted separately. This is necessary to prevent overlap with air flows from living quarters as a result of back draft.

In this case best solution there will be the use of plastic or metal ventilation outlets instead of brickwork, which are equipped with many types of new roofing systems.

These outputs are:

  • look aesthetically pleasing;
  • differ in tightness and reliability,
  • height adjustable;
  • protect well from rain.

Sealing masonry chimneys

After the brick chimney has been lined, first of all, the exit of the vertical pipes to the roof surface must be made airtight. This is the initial and main stage of finishing the chimneys on the roof.

More recently, according to state standards, it was necessary to expand the brickwork above the roof. This was required in order to bring roofing material under it in order to seal the joint. To ensure the insulation of the connection, metal was laid under the protrusion of the masonry. As a result, the roof section of the pipe turned out to be heavy and looked unattractive.

At present, after the advent of the latest insulating technologies and materials, it is no longer necessary to expand the masonry. A brick pipe can be made straight, without a protrusion. Without exception, all waterproofing films, regardless of the roof structure, must be wrapped on brickwork. At the same time, bituminous materials should not be used for chimneys; non-combustible elastic bands should be used.

When finishing the chimney on the roof, a protective apron must be laid around it. This element is made of galvanized metal with a polymer coating. If necessary, a sealing tape is laid under the apron - this flexible product is sold complete with roofs, it comes in different colors.


Such tapes are produced on the basis of aluminum foil, they have a self-adhesive bitumen-polymer layer, sometimes consisting of lead plates. In the manufacture of aprons for smoke exhaust structures, only non-combustible materials are used.

The most reliable solution is considered to be a combination of a metal apron and a sealing flexible tape. If during the laying process the groove was not made in advance, then it is advisable to cut a strobe in it in order to bring the metal into the recess. But it is not necessary to do so.

Finishing the chimney pipe on the roof provides that the apron in its lower and side parts must be placed above the roof covering, and the top must be turned on
under cover. The place where the element adjoins the masonry should be treated with transparent silicone sealants. Also, do not forget about applying these compounds to the seam.

Sewing pipes over the roof

Perform it in certain cases:

  1. The masonry was made of poor quality materials and there is a concern that the brick may not withstand atmospheric loads.
  2. With a sufficient pipe height, the required traction force is not available. In this case, before sheathing the chimney, you need to lay a layer of thermal insulation. For smoke exhaust structures, non-combustible material is used, which is basalt wool.
  3. When only plastic air ducts with a light weight, then there is no need to perform brickwork. Instead, a strong frame is built, communications are carried out inside it, and outside, after laying the insulation, they are sewn.

Materials for lining chimneys

Features of such work are as follows:

  1. Before laying the chimney pipe, you need to build a frame designed for fastening materials and installing a heat insulator. Suitable for ventilation pipes wooden block with a section of 4x4, 5x5 centimeters, treated with antiseptics, or metal, and for chimneys they use a metal profile, which is usually used when working with drywall. Use dowels made of metal, not plastic.
  2. It is convenient to use a galvanized profile for GKL in work. The fact is that the insulation fits well into the gaps between the profiles.
  3. The most inexpensive and neat material when choosing how to close the chimney on the roof is a galvanized sheet of metal coated with a polymer.
  4. metal cladding chimney design is a cheap and neat solution. For fastening in this case, screws with a hexagonal head and a rubber gasket are used.
  5. Even siding can be used for sewing, but only ventilation pipes, since it is a combustible material.
  6. If the roof is laid flexible tile, it can also veneer the skin. First, a frame is made, after which OSB or DSP is used, and only then tiles are glued. But for chimneys, this option is not suitable.

Experts are unanimous: finishing the chimney on the roof with corrugated board is the best option.

Chimney lining and special caps

One of the finishing methods is cladding. For this, natural or artificial stone is used, but this option not practical. This is explained by the fact that the cladding is often torn off from low-quality bricks, along with the top layer of ceramics, which spoils the roof. If the brick is of high quality and beautiful, it makes no sense to close it.

When the sheathing is heavy, it should be fixed not only with the help of an adhesive composition, but also with hardware. For this purpose, metal brackets or dowels are used - nails directly through stone tiles.


To protect the ventilation ducts from atmospheric troubles, protective caps are installed on the pipe heads. They reduce the traction force, so their size should not be too large. In this case, the distance from the top of the pipe to the lowest point of the cap must be made at least 15 centimeters. The shape of this product and the material of its manufacture can be very different.

To protect communications from birds getting into them, it is advisable to place a grate or mesh in the pipe openings.

Finishing chimneys - how to properly sheathe

While doing finishing works fire safety regulations must be followed. The gases leaving the chimney structures are very high temperatures. It is mandatory for all types of chimneys to ensure sufficient draft force.

One of the main requirements for finishing chimneys is the use of exclusively non-combustible materials. Therefore, such a solution, how to sheathe a pipe on a roof with a metal profile, is considered the best. When the chimney is installed next to the ventilation ducts, it must be led out above the common cap.


Today, stainless steel chimneys with internal thermal insulation are widely used. They are allowed to be brought to the roof without brickwork, using a metal apron.

Ways to finish the channels facing the roof are varied and largely depend on the preferences of the homeowners. It is possible to sheathe the pipe with profiled sheets, clinker bricks, cement-fiber boards, lime-cement plaster, artificial or natural stone, finished double-circuit design. The latter option is convenient and has an attractive appearance.