When operating a car with serviceable electrical equipment, problems associated with the battery of this car usually do not arise. Of course, if you do not leave powerful consumers of electricity on for a long time when the car engine is not running. But it is worth blowing out the fuse that protects the generator excitation circuit, and the next attempt to start the car engine will not be crowned with success. After that, a previously irrelevant question will arise before the car owner: "how to charge the battery correctly?" With the availability of a charger, the correct charging of the car battery at home is not a big deal. Automatic charging of the machine battery charger the most simple and does not need control over the process.
The car battery (ACB) is used to start the car engine and as an auxiliary source of electricity when the car engine is not running.
The fact that the starter of the car "sluggishly" turns, not necessarily a consequence of the fact that the automobile chemical source of electricity is depleted. Therefore, before dragging the car battery for charging, it is recommended to check it.
Measurements are taken when the car engine is not running. A fully charged car battery has an electrolyte density of 1.27 to 1.29 g / cm 3 and a terminal voltage from 12.3 to 12.9 V. When 70% of the charge remains in it, its electrolyte density will be from 1.23 to 1.25 g / cm 3, and the voltage from 12.0 to 12.1 V. A half-discharged current source will have an electrolyte density of 1.16 to 1.18 g / cm 3 and show a voltage from 11.8 to 12, 0 V. Fully discharged, it will have a density of 1.11 to 1.13 g / cm 3, and the voltage will drop below 11 V.
In order to properly charge the battery at home, follow this sequence:
There are three ways to properly charge the battery:
The first two ways to charge the battery have both pros and cons. The first method consists in connecting the battery to a power source with a constant current strength of not more than 16.2 V. The current strength when charging for 20 hours can be calculated if the battery capacity is divided by 20 hours. For example, your machine has a 50 Ah battery, then 50 Ah / 20 h = 2.5A. With a 10 hour charge, to determine the current strength of the battery charge, the capacity is divided by 10 hours. That is, in order to properly charge the same battery in 10 hours, you need a charging current of 5 A. One of the most important advantages of this method is that the battery is fully charged. Among the disadvantages can be noted the need to stabilize the current strength, significant gas evolution, and heating of the electrolyte.
It is recommended to charge in this way in two stages - first, make the charging current equal to 1/10 of the nominal capacity, and after reaching the voltage of one cell of 2.4 V, reduce it by 2 times. The end of charging is determined by the appearance of intense gassing - "boiling" of the electrolyte.
The second method is to stabilize the charging voltage, while the current strength varies depending on the resistance of the battery. This technique allows you to charge the battery up to 85–90%. The advantages of the method:
The main disadvantage is the strong heating of the electrolyte due to the high current strength at the beginning of charging. Equalizing charge is designed to eliminate the consequences of deep discharges. It very well eliminates the increasing sulfation of the electrodes.
The forced technique is used to quickly restore the operating state of the source after a deep discharge. Allows an increase in current at the beginning of charging up to 70% of the value of the nominal capacity, but not more than half an hour. The next 45 minutes the charging current is reduced to half of the rated capacity. For another 1.5 hours, the charge goes with a current equal to 30% of the nominal capacity. This charging requires mandatory monitoring of the electrolyte temperature. If the temperature rises to 45 ◦ C, stop charging.
Use the method of forced charging of the battery on the trail as rarely as possible, since its regular use will significantly reduce its service life.
Among car owners, there is an opinion that it is unacceptable to install a battery with an increased capacity on a car, since with a larger capacity, the car battery allegedly will not have time to charge. However, the amount of energy spent on starting the car engine does not depend on the battery capacity. Therefore, with a working generator, it will be replenished in a battery of larger and smaller capacity at the same time. This means that installing a battery with a capacity greater than the recommended one on a car will not do any harm. 
The charger (charger) is used to charge electric batteries from the alternating current network. The charger consists of a voltage converter (transformer or pulse rectifier), a voltage stabilizer, a controller that regulates the charging current and sometimes an indication unit consisting of dial or LED ampere-voltmeters. Chargers differ in the type of rechargeable batteries, their operating voltage and capacity.
Designation of the charger for car batteries: X B / C, where X is the name of the charger, B is the maximum capacity of the rechargeable battery in Ampere-hours, C is the maximum operating voltage of the rechargeable battery in volts. If the charger has a B value exceeding 170 Ah, then it can be used not only for charging, but also to help start the car engine.
During engine operation, the battery () regardless of the type (serviced or non-serviced battery) is recharged from car generator... To control the battery charge, a device called a relay-regulator is installed on the generator.
The very operation of a car in winter often involves short trips, the inclusion of a large number of energy-intensive equipment (heated mirrors, glass, seats, etc.) The load on the battery increases significantly. At the same time, the battery simply does not have time to charge from the generator and compensate for the losses spent on starts. Considering the above, it is optimal to fully charge the battery with a charger to 100% at least once a year before the onset of cold weather.
We add that in case of problems with starting the engine due to the presence of engine malfunctions (problems with fuel equipment, etc.), the owner has to turn the starter much longer and more intensively. In such cases, you will need to charge the battery with an external charger much more often.
To know how to charge a maintenance-free car battery with a charger, as well as to charge a service-type battery, certain rules must be followed. The charger (charger, external charger OVC, starting charger) is actually a capacitor charger.
Car battery - source direct current... When connecting the battery, it is imperative to observe the polarity. For this, the positive and negative terminals are marked with a plus and minus sign ("+" and "-") on the battery. The terminals on the charger have a similar marking, which allows you to correctly connect the battery to the charger. In other words, the "plus" of the battery is connected to the "+" terminal of the charger, the "minus" on the battery is connected to the "-" output of the charger.
Note that an accidental reversal of polarity will result in the battery being discharged instead of being charged. It should also be borne in mind that a deep discharge (the battery is completely seated) can in some cases damage the battery, as a result of which it may not be possible to charge such a battery using a charger.
It should also be borne in mind that before connecting to the charger, the battery must be removed from the car and thoroughly cleaned of possible contamination. Acid streaks are well removed with a damp cloth, which is moistened in a solution with soda. To prepare the solution, 15-20 grams of soda is enough for 150-200 grams of water. The presence of acid will be indicated by foaming of the specified solution when applied to the battery case.
As for the serviced batteries, the plugs on the acid cans should be unscrewed. The fact is that during charging, gases are formed in the battery, which must be provided with a free exit. You should also check the electrolyte level. When the level drops below the norm, distilled water is topped up.
To begin with, charging a battery involves supplying it with a current that is not enough for a battery to fully charge. Based on this statement, you can answer the questions of how much current to charge the car battery, as well as how much you need to charge the car battery with the charger.
In the event that a battery with a capacity of 50 Ampere-hours is 50% charged, then at the initial stage, a charging current of 25 A should be set, after which this current must be dynamically reduced. By the time the battery is fully charged, the current supply should stop. This principle of operation is at the heart of the automatic chargers, with the help of which car battery charges on average in 4-6 hours. The only drawback of such chargers is their high cost.
It is also worth highlighting semi-automatic chargers and solutions that involve completely manual configuration. The latter are the most affordable and widely available for sale. Considering that the battery is usually 50% discharged, you can calculate how much to charge a maintenance-free car battery, and also understand how much to charge a car battery of a serviced type.
The basis for calculating the battery charging time is the battery capacity. Knowing this parameter, the charging time is calculated quite simply. If the battery has a capacity of 50 Ah, then for full charging it is required to supply such a battery with a current of no more than 30 Ah. The charger sets 3A, which will take ten hours to fully charge the battery with the charger.
To be 100% sure that the battery is fully charged, after 10 hours, you can set the current to 0.5 A on the charger, and then continue charging the battery for another 5-10 hours. This charging method is not dangerous for car batteries, which have a large capacity. The downside is the need to charge the battery for about a day.
To save time and quickly charge the battery, you can set it to 8 A and then charge for about 3 hours. After this period has expired, the charge current is reduced to 6 A and the battery is charged with this current for another 1 hour. As a result, it will take 4 hours to charge. Note that this charging mode is not optimal, since it is advisable to charge the battery with a small current of up to 3 A.
Charging with high currents can overcharge and overheat the battery, resulting in a significant reduction in battery life. We also note that the use of battery charging methods, which are aimed at minimizing the negative process of plate sulfation, in practice do not have noticeable positive results.
Correct operation of the battery, depending on its type (serviced and unattended), the elimination of deep discharge and timely charging with the help of a charger allow an acid battery to work properly for 3-7 years.
Correct charging and a number of conditions that must be observed during the operation of a car battery can ensure normal engine start even in extremely low temperatures... The main indicator of the state of the battery is the degree of its charge. Next, we will answer how to find out if the car battery is charged.
To begin with, some battery models have a special color indicator on the battery itself, which indicates whether the battery is charged or discharged. It should be noted that the indicated indicator is a very rough indicator, by which it is possible, with a certain degree of probability, to determine only the need for recharging. In other words, the charge indicator can indicate that the battery is charged, but at the same time the starting current at negative temperatures turns out to be insufficient.
Another way to determine the degree of battery charge is to measure the voltage at the battery terminals. This method also allows a very rough estimate of the state and degree of charge. To measure the battery, you need to remove it from the car or disconnect it from the charger, after which you need to wait an additional 7 hours. The outside temperature is not critical.
It is also possible to check the state of charge of the battery without waiting. To do this, the voltage at the battery terminals must be measured by the load using the so-called load plugs. This method is more accurate and reliable. The specified plug is a voltmeter, a resistance is connected in parallel to the terminals of the voltmeter. The resistance value is 0.018-0.020 Ohm for a battery with a capacity indicator of 40-60 Ampere-hours.
The plug must be connected to the corresponding outputs on the battery, then after 6-8 seconds. fix the readings that the voltmeter displays. Next, you can estimate the battery voltage level using a load plug:
You can also take measurements in the absence of a load plug without removing the battery from the car. The battery must be connected to the vehicle electrical system vehicle... Then you will need to load the battery by turning on the dimensions and high beam of the head optics (for cars with standard halogen lamps). The headlight bulbs have a power of 50 W, the load is about 10 A. The voltage of a normally charged battery in this case should be about 11.2 V.
The next method that allows you to check the battery charge is to measure the voltage at the battery terminals at the moment when the internal combustion engine is started. These measurements can only be considered reliable if the starter is working properly.
At the moment of start-up, the voltage indicator should not be below the 9.5 V mark. A voltage drop below the indicated mark means that the battery is severely discharged. In this case, it needs to be charged using a charger. This test method also allows you to identify problems with the starter. A known serviceable and 100% charged battery is installed on the car, after which the measurement is taken. If the voltage at the battery terminals at the time of starting drops below 9.5 V, then problems with the starter are obvious.
Finally, we add that the measurements different ways suggest the fixation of fluctuations in a fraction of a volt. For this reason, increased requirements are imposed on the voltmeter. The accuracy of the device is extremely important, since the slightest error of even one or two percent will lead to an error in measuring the degree of battery charge by 10 -20%. For measurements, it is recommended to use devices with a minimum error.
A common cause of deep battery discharge is banal inattention. It is often enough to leave the car with the included dimensions or headlights, interior lighting or a radio tape recorder for 6-12 hours, after which the battery is completely discharged. For this reason, many car owners are interested in the question of whether it is possible to restore a completely discharged battery.
As you know, a complete discharge of a battery has a strong effect on battery life, especially when it comes to maintenance-free batteries. Manufacturers of car batteries indicate that even one full discharge is enough to damage the battery. In practice, relatively new batteries can be restored at least 1 or 2 times after their complete discharge without significant loss of operational properties.
First, you need to determine how much the battery is discharged using one of the above methods. You can also put the battery on charge right away. Further, a completely discharged battery must be charged in the mode recommended by the battery manufacturer. The standard is the supply of a charge current value at 0.1 from total capacity batteries.
A fully planted battery is charged with this current for at least 14-16 hours. For example, consider charging a 60 Amp-hour battery. In this case, the charge current should be on average from 3 A (slower) to 6 A (faster). A fully discharged car battery should be properly charged with the smallest current, and as long as possible (about a day).
When the voltage at the battery terminals no longer increases for 60 minutes. (assuming the same charging current is supplied), then the battery is fully charged. When fully charged, maintenance-free batteries assume a voltage value of 16.2 ± 0.1 V. It should be borne in mind that this voltage value is a standard, but at the same time there is a dependence on the battery capacity indicator, charge current, electrolyte density in the battery, etc. Any voltmeter is suitable for measurement, regardless of the error of the device, since it is necessary to measure a constant, not an exact voltage.
The most in a simple way charging the battery is to start the car using the "lighting" method from another car, after which you need to drive the car for about 20-30 minutes. For the efficiency of charging from the generator, either dynamic driving in higher gears or driving on "low" is assumed.
The main condition is to maintain the crankshaft speed at around 2900-3200 rpm. At the specified speed, the generator will provide the required current to recharge the battery. Note that this method is suitable only if the battery is partially and not deeply discharged. Also, after the trip, you will still need to fully charge the battery.
Quite often, car enthusiasts are interested in what else you can charge a car battery, besides the charger. Most often, as a replacement, it is supposed to use chargers that charge mobile phones, tablets, laptops and other gadgets. We note right away that these solutions do not allow charging a car battery without a number of manipulations.
The fact is that the main condition for supplying current from the charger to the battery is that a voltage must be present at the output of the charger, which will be higher than the voltage at the outputs of the battery. In other words, when the voltage of the battery outputs is 12 V, the output voltage of the charger should be 14 V. various devices, then the voltage of their batteries often does not exceed 7.0 V. Now, imagine that you have at hand a charger from a gadget, which has the required voltage of 12 V. The problem will still be present, since the resistance of the car's battery is measured in whole ohms.
It turns out that connecting charging from a mobile device to the battery outputs will actually be a short circuit of the terminals of the charging power supply. The protection will operate in the unit, as a result of which such a charger will not supply current to the battery. In the absence of protection, there is a high probability of failure of the power supply from a significant load.
It should be added that the car battery should also not be charged from various power supplies that have a suitable output voltage, but they structurally lack the ability to adjust the amount of current supplied. Only a special charger for a car battery is a device that has at its output the required voltage and current for charging the battery. In parallel with this, it is possible to control a constant current value.
Now let's move from theory to practice. Let's start with the fact that you can make a charger for a battery from a power supply from a third-party device with your own hands.
Please note that these actions pose a certain danger and are performed solely at your own peril and risk. The administration of the resource does not bear any responsibility, the information is presented for informational purposes only!
There are several ways to make a charger. Let's take a quick look at the most common ones:
It should be borne in mind that the use of such solutions means charging the battery through a current source. As a result, constant monitoring of the time and moment of the end of the battery charge is required. This control is carried out using regular measurements of the voltage at the battery terminals or counting the time for which the battery is put on charge.
Remember, overcharging the battery leads to an increase in the temperature inside the battery and the active release of hydrogen and oxygen. Boiling of the electrolyte in the "banks" of the battery causes the formation of an explosive mixture. The battery may explode if an electrical spark is generated or other sources of ignition occur. An explosion like this can lead to fires, burns and injuries!
Now let's focus on the most common method self-made Charger for the car battery. We are talking about charging from a laptop PSU. To accomplish the task, certain knowledge, skills and experience in the field of assembling simple electrical circuits are required. Otherwise, the best solution would be to contact a specialist, purchase a ready-made charger or replace the battery with a new one.
The scheme for manufacturing the memory itself is quite simple. A ballast lamp is connected to the PSU, and the outputs of a homemade charger are connected to the outputs of the battery. A lamp with a small rating is required as a "ballast".
If you try to connect the power supply unit to the battery without using a ballast lamp in the electrical circuit, then you can quickly disable both the power supply unit and the battery.
You should select the right lamp step by step, starting with the minimum ratings. To begin with, you can connect a low-power turn signal lamp, then a more powerful turn signal lamp, etc. Each lamp should be tested separately by daisy-chaining. If the light is on, then you can proceed to connecting an analogue of greater power. This method will help not to damage the power supply. Finally, we add that about the battery charge from such homemade device will indicate the burning of the ballast lamp. In other words, if the battery is charging, then the lamp will burn, even if it is very dim.
The new battery must be fully charged and functional, that is, it must be immediately installed on the car to start further operation. Before purchasing, it is necessary to check the battery for a number of parameters:
At the initial stage, it is necessary to remove the protective film and inspect the case for cracks, streaks and other defects. If the slightest deviation from the norm is found, it is recommended to replace the battery.
Then the voltage is measured at the terminals of the new battery. You can measure the voltage with a voltmeter, while the accuracy of the device does not matter. The voltage should not be lower than the 12 volt mark. A voltage reading of 10.8 volts indicates that the battery is completely discharged. This indicator is unacceptable for a new battery.
The density of the electrolyte is measured using a special plug. Also, the density parameter indirectly indicates the battery charge level. The final stage of the check is to determine the date of release of the battery. Batteries that were released 6 months. back or more from the day of the planned purchase should not be purchased. The fact is that a battery ready for use has a tendency to self-discharge. For this reason, the battery must be prepared in advance for long-term storage, but in this case, the battery can no longer be considered a new finished product.
It turns out that the answer to the question whether it is necessary to charge a new battery for the car will be negative. There is no need to charge a new battery. If the battery planned for purchase is discharged, then it may simply be old, used, or there is a manufacturing defect.
Very often during operation, owners try to charge the battery without removing the battery from the car. In other words, the battery is charged without removing the terminals directly on the car, that is, the battery while charging remains connected to the vehicle's network.
We draw your attention to the fact that when the battery is charging, the voltage at the battery terminals may be around 16 V. This voltage indicator strongly depends on what type of charger is used for charging. We add that even turning off the ignition and removing the key from the lock does not mean that all devices in the car are de-energized. The security complex or alarm system, multimedia head unit, interior lighting and other solutions can remain on or in standby mode.
Charging the battery without removing and disconnecting the terminals may result in too high supply voltage applied to powered devices. The result is usually the breakdown of such devices. If your car has devices that cannot be completely de-energized after turning off the ignition, then it is prohibited to charge the battery without disconnecting the terminals. Before charging, in this case, it is necessary to make a mandatory disconnection of the "negative" terminal.
Also, do not start disconnecting the battery from the positive terminal. The negative terminal on the battery is connected to the vehicle's electrical system through a direct connection to the body. An attempt to turn off the "plus" first can have dire consequences. Unintentional contact of a wrench or other tool with metal parts of the car body / engine will cause a short circuit. This situation is quite common in cases where the positive terminal is unscrewed from the battery output with the help of keys, while the negative is not removed.
As for charging the battery in the cold or indoors in winter without heating, the battery can be safely recharged in such conditions. During charging, the battery heats up, the temperature of the electrolyte in the "banks" will be positive. In parallel with this, bringing the battery into heat for charging is required if the electrolyte has frozen inside the battery and the battery has been completely seated. It is necessary to charge such a battery strictly after the frozen electrolyte thaws.
Often, car enthusiasts ask the question: is it necessary to charge a new car battery after buying it in a retail network? It is impossible to answer this question unequivocally.
There are a number of parameters to consider:
Modern car batteries are often produced in a maintenance-free version, in AGM and gel batteries there is no concept of electrolyte density at all.
V large cities There are several ways to purchase a car battery:
Storage conditions largely depend on the place of purchase. If a battery is purchased at a gas station network, it is likely that it was stored for a long time in unheated room, often even in a "cage" on the street. Of course, no one recharged it, and did not service it. The only advantages of buying at a gas station is that you can hope that the battery will be fresh enough, and not from the left manufacturer.
After purchasing it at a gas station, many car owners immediately install the battery on the car, while simultaneously charging it while driving. Here we are not talking about further recharging.
Just remember that as soon as the car terminals are connected to the battery, even a completely discharged battery may not be accepted back. In general, a certified service station should install a new battery (by the way, you can ask a gas station technician).
The warranty obligations for the car battery may be refused due to self installation or without documentary confirmation of the fact of installation by a specialist (invoice, order, check).
Approximately the same picture can be observed in general-purpose online stores. The prices in them may be slightly lower, but the storage periods of the batteries are rather longer (sometimes such stores outbid the stale goods), while the storage conditions are often unknown.
Video - how to check a new car battery upon purchase:
At the time of purchase, it is better to immediately grab a multimeter with you, put it in the mode for measuring constant voltages of 20 Volts, and make sure that the voltage at the terminals will be more than 12.4 Volts.
In most cases, the most best option purchasing a new car battery - in specialized online and ordinary stores that sell batteries. Firstly, the goods are usually not stale in them. Secondly, there are specialists who know how to store, maintain and properly sell batteries.
At the time of sale (even by courier) they check the battery voltage with a trusted multimeter and the starting current with the load plug. The need for additional recharging, as a rule, disappears.
Most specialty stores offer free shipping and installation, and, if necessary, buy or take into account an old storage battery (moreover, at a normal cost).
If enough time has passed since the production of the battery and its charge, then, taking into account self-discharge, the battery may lose part of its capacity.
If an incompletely charged battery is installed on the vehicle, which has not yet been subjected to heavy loads when starting the engine, the following malfunctions may occur:
Therefore, after buying a new car battery, it is advisable to check its parameters and determine whether it needs to be charged.
It is carried out with a multimeter set to a DC voltage measurement limit of 20 volts. If the readings are in the range from 12.4 to 12.8 volts, there is no need to recharge the battery before installing it on the car.
If the multimeter readings are less than 12.2 Volts, the battery should be recharged. Recharging is carried out by a factory charger for 2 - 3 hours with a current corresponding to 0.1 of the nominal capacity. So, a battery with a capacity of 60 amperes * hours is recharged with a current of 6 amperes (it is better to take a little less - 4-5 amperes).
During charging, unscrew the covers on the serviced battery. The battery must be charged in a non-residential area.
AGM and gel batteries must be recharged. Their charging process has a different algorithm from conventional batteries. It consists of 3 stages: main, additional and additional charge. The last stage in pre-sale preparation may be absent, in any case, it is better to do it yourself. It is produced by a charger set for a charge current of 1 - 2 Amperes, for 5 - 10 hours.
Possible only on a serviced battery. A density of about 1.27 g / cm 3 is considered normal. The density is measured with a hydrometer. The density of a new maintenance-free battery can be estimated indirectly by reading the voltage at its terminals.
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Electrolyte density (g / cm 3 at + 20 ° С) |
Battery charge level,% |
Voltage, V (no load) |
Voltage, V (with load |
Freezing point of electrolyte |
The hydrometer is a so-called "peephole" on the upper base of the battery. If it is in the green zone under load, then the new battery does not need to be charged before installing it on the vehicle. If it indicates in a different color, additional charging is required.
Some car enthusiasts follow the advice to “train” a new car battery before using it. The so-called training consists in several successive cycles of full discharge - battery charge.
This can be done using a powerful consumer (headlight lamp) and a charger. Such training can come in handy when the battery has gone around with slightly sulfated plates (possibly, if the battery is not stored correctly).
But, if the battery was supplied with a voltage of more than 12.0 Volts, such "training" will not lead to anything, as soon as it will not lead to a decrease in its resource.
There is a methodology for determining the real capacity of a car battery, similar to "training". For this, the battery is fully charged, then the load is connected in the form of any powerful headlight lamp.
Video - do I need to charge a new car battery after purchase:
The discharge current is measured with a multimeter. For a 60 watt lamp at 12 volts, it will be approximately 60/12 = 5 amperes.
Oddly enough, but car owners do not pay enough attention to the battery. Turns the starter - and good. However, sooner or later the time comes when the "second heart" of your pet starts to malfunction, or even freezes altogether, refusing to rotate the starter.
When driving on a daily basis, it is hardly necessary at every stop to look under the hood and measure the density of the electrolyte in the battery. Problems with the battery can be found most quickly after a long parking of the car or when energy consumers use no movement. In such cases, it is necessary to check the electrolyte level in the jars and measure its density.
It will not be superfluous to carry out such operations in the cold and hot seasons, since in cold weather the density of the electrolyte in the battery should be higher than in the heat. Moreover, in hot weather, the electrolyte actively boils away and periodically it is required to top up with distilled water to a certain level.
Car battery operation assumes its periodic recharging. Of course, it is best to detect a drop in the density of electrolyte or a decrease in its amount in the cans in time and start refilling and recharging without waiting for the moment when the car cannot be started. However, in practice, everything is simpler, and the signal for servicing the battery is most often the slow rotation of the starter when starting the car.
Every car enthusiast knows well that if in such a situation they do not take care of the battery, then the next morning the car will not move, and the culprit of the stop will begin to shorten his life at a progressive pace.
You can charge the battery of your car at the station Maintenance, but this is not a very convenient option, although the work will be carried out by specialists, and there is a hope that they will do everything "according to science." The main inconvenience is that the car will need to be left at the service station for some time - you cannot leave without a battery.
The easier option is to purchase a car charger and perform the operation to bring the battery into working condition on your own. There is nothing difficult in charging the battery on your own, you just need to get familiar with the recommendations for performing the necessary operations and follow the fire safety rules. It is best to charge the battery in the garage, the option of working in the kitchen is not excluded. In some cases, it is possible to charge the battery without removing it from the car.
Lead acid batteries can be successfully charged with DC rectifiers. It is desirable that the devices have voltage and current regulators, since with their help it will be possible to select the optimal modes for a specific charging task.
Before proceeding directly to charging the battery, you should carefully measure the electrolyte level and its density. To carry out these operations, it is necessary to remove the battery from the car, clean it from dust and dirt, remove possible traces of oxidation on the terminals and, if necessary, clean them with fine sandpaper, then unscrew the plugs in the banks
and proceed with the appropriate measurements.
Attention, be sure to unscrew the control plugs in order to avoid an explosion !!!Battery may explode. The consequence of carelessness in the video.
On the transparent cases of batteries, there are max and min marks on the sides, which indicate what the level of electrolyte in the cans should be. Accordingly, it is necessary to add distilled water to jars where the electrolyte level is noticeably underestimated. In opaque batteries, it is convenient to check the electrolyte level with a glass tube. The tube must be lowered inward until it stops and pressed on top with your finger. Take it out and look at the electrolyte level in it. Should be about 10-15 mm.
At the next stage, the density of the electrolyte is checked using a hydrometer. The hydrometer is a glass flask with a rubber bulb at one end and a hole at the other for sucking up electrolyte from the battery cans. There is a float with markings inside the device. When electrolyte is taken in, the float floats up and indicates the level of its density. The density of the electrolyte of a fully charged battery should be 1.27-1.28 g / cm3.
If the density is lower than recommended, then the battery should be charged. To do this, the battery must be placed on flat surface and connect the corresponding terminals of the charger to the plus and minus of the battery, and then plug the charger into the network. The caps of the cans should not be screwed back into place during charging. It is better to cover the holes with them, since during charging the electrolyte will boil and hydrogen will be actively evolved.
To the question, how long does it take to charge the car battery- there is no definite answer. It all depends on the capacity of the battery itself and the depth of its discharge. However, there is general rules that should be followed strictly. First, the battery charging current cannot be higher than 1/10 of the battery capacity. In other words, if you need to charge a twelve-volt battery with a capacity of 45 Ah, then the charge current cannot be higher than 4.5 A. By the way, at the maximum possible charge current, the time to bring the battery to working condition is significantly reduced. Such currents should be used for charging if the battery is not very discharged. When the battery is deeply discharged, the charge current is reduced to 1.5 - 2.0 A, but at the same time the procedure time is increased, up to about a day.
Secondly, the process of charging the battery must be constantly monitored. It is necessary to periodically measure the density of the electrolyte in the jars and measure its temperature. The electrolyte temperature should not exceed + 45 ° С. When these parameters are reached, the charge current must be halved, or even stop charging for a while.
Thirdly, the density of the electrolyte in individual cans, upon reaching a full charge, should not differ by more than 0.01 g / cm3. The difference in indicators is leveled by adding distilled water to those jars where the electrolyte density is higher.
Fourth, the battery is considered fully charged if, after the charging procedure, it is able to keep its density and voltage stable for two hours or more.
Car enthusiasts who use maintenance-free batteries on their cars are periodically faced with the need to charge them. They should be aware that to charge maintenance-free batteries important indicator is not the charging current, but the charging voltage.
The charger must be set to a voltage of 14.4 volts and the process must be monitored. The battery will be charged when the terminals have a voltage of 14.4 volts, and the current drops to 200mA.
If the maintenance-free battery is deeply discharged, it can be recharged in two stages. First, a voltage of 12-13 volts is set on the charger, and the current is not more than 1/20 of the battery capacity. The current parameters will first increase and when they reach 1/10 of the battery capacity, charging should be switched to a voltage of 14.4 volts and wait until the current strength is within 0.2 A. It is important to remember that raising the charging voltage of a maintenance-free battery above 15 .5 volts is not recommended to avoid damaging the latter.
Battery storageDuring the period when the car is not used for a long time, you need to worry about the special storage conditions of the battery. Firstly, the battery must be removed from the car, cleaned from dirt, and wiped off.
Second, fully charge.
V winter time A fully charged battery is best stored in a cool rather than warm place. If the battery is not used for a long time, then its condition is periodically checked and brought to the working one.
Remember, keeping the battery in a discharged state will significantly shorten its life.
During daily operation of the machine, the battery is charged automatically from the generator, and if everything is in order with the generator, then the battery will work for a long time and without problems. Car enthusiasts are familiar with the sound of starting a serviceable car and it is perhaps better than any music. Unfortunately, for many car owners, the idyll soon ends, and they themselves are to blame. Improper use and untimely maintenance can damage even the most reliable battery.
The winter period is perhaps the most difficult for a car, and in particular for its battery. During cold starts, the battery suffers greatly - it loses its charge, and cannot recharge normally, because it is cold (as you know, a cold battery is charged at times worse). And if you travel short distances, for example, to work 15 minutes by car, you get chronic "undercharges". In general, once a month, and maybe more often, you need to recharge with a special charger. BUT here one more question arises - how to do it correctly? Do I need to remove the battery or can it be done without removing it from the car? After all, now there are so many electronics in a car that you can burn. Let's figure it out ...
As it seems to me, the problem is "sucked from the finger" out of the blue. All modern chargers can charge your car, even if the terminals are not removed from your battery, that is, it is connected to the on-board system. If you are a happy owner of a garage, just come to it, open the hood without removing the battery and terminals (albeit if they are clean), put the wires from the "charger" and charge to the required parameters! ALL! Nothing will burn out, short-circuit, nothing will "fly". Whoever says such a thing simply does not understand the structure of the car.
After such a statement, now many can tell me - JUSTIFY what I want to do. However, before that, I want to note that now there are two main types of cars, this is conditionally - the "old" carburetor type, there are few of them every year, but they still exist. And the conditionally "new" injection type, the vast majority of cars. In this article, we will analyze each option separately. BUT first, a few words about overvoltage.
There are a lot of reviews and discussions on this topic on the Internet. Some write that it is imperative to remove the terminals, and if not removed, then this threatens with complex breakdowns. Others write - that nothing terrible will happen and you can charge without removing. BUT one opinion is NOT here!
I suggest thinking logically. In terms of electrical equipment.
What's so bad about the wrong charger? YES everything is simple - high voltage, at which, hypothetically, electronic devices can burn out, even if they are de-energized by means of the ignition lock.
So, many chargers give out a maximum voltage of 15V, it can do little to on-board electronics, because the generator often produces about the same voltage.
However, there are specialized charging systems designed for, say, calcium batteries, where the voltage can be 16 - 17V, which may already be critical for many electronic systems.
Therefore, it is initially correct. We take into account that the MAXIMUM on-board network can digest 15V, otherwise we get overvoltage and the ability to disable the car electronics.
There can be no problems here at all - NO. There is simply nothing to burn here, because there is no ECU! Except, but even if it fails, then most likely it will simply recharge your battery. BUT the charger does not affect this relay in any way! How the charging system of this option works. The diagram is a bit exaggerated, but it is just needed to understand the process.
After starting the engine, the generator begins to generate energy, it is closely connected with the engine crankshaft through a belt drive. The energy is spasmodic, it is removed by special "brushes" from the rotor. Further, the energy is "rectified" through a special "relay-regulator rectifier". It gives a constant voltage, say 13.8 - 14.2V, sufficient to charge the battery.
It is clear that when working power unit, the generator also feeds all other equipment needed for fuel ignition, lighting, etc., the battery is simply charged in this mode.
The generator cannot recharge the battery, everything is controlled by special "relays" this is mechanical principle charge.
In a carburetor car, there are no specialized control units at all, here many operations are performed mechanically.
Actually, if you are not removing the battery from the car, connect the ends of the charger to the terminals, and the engine will not work at this time. Nothing terrible will simply not be able to happen, the battery will be charged in the same way as from the generator, and the "relay" will essentially be de-energized. Personally, I myself have done this many times, on my VAZ 2101 - 2105.
These are modern units with a lot of electronics. In general, motors have evolved very much now, this is a bunch of electronics, sensors and other things. The main device that controls everything is, of course, the ECU (Electronic Control Unit). Not only charging is monitored, but also the ignition and other functions of the car. If you pull out this block now, the car will become just a “piece of metal”.
However, for a generator, the evolution is not as noticeable. Again, it spins away from the engine crankshaft (belt connection). It again has a "rectifier relay", and it again supplies the system at the moment the motor is started and recharges the battery.
BUT now power is supplied not only to consumers, but also to the "brain" of the car's ECU. Hence the myths were born that - if you connect the charger without removing the terminals, and the battery itself from the car. Then this "charge" will disable it.
However, this is not true! Let's think logically:
I can assure you with confidence that the battery can be charged without removing the terminals from the car. Nothing bad will happen.
I will say even more - now many sophisticated cars (usually of the elite class) that have several ECUs, an additional one can be used for secondary equipment. It is generally not recommended to remove the terminals from the battery. Because certain settings can get lost, for the resumption of which you will need to visit the stations of the authorized dealer.
That's when you shouldn't throw contacts from the "charger" - it's a running engine. After all, it is powered by a standard generator + you are still supplying power from the charger. First of all, you can damage either the generator, the "relay-rectifier" can burn out. Or you can burn the "charger" itself, it is not designed to work with a running motor.
And even in such conditions, the ECU is unlikely to burn out, I want to repeat it again - the charging itself will most likely suffer.
However, if you want to charge the battery without removing it from the car, you should take care of the car terminals. Sometimes, due to oxides and other deposits, trivial moisture, charging will not be possible, or incorrect data will be indicated!
