The main attraction of amaryllis is its huge inflorescences. But often beginner growers who first planted this plant and all year round it is watered, after a few years they wonder why the amaryllis flowers were crushed or why it stopped blooming altogether. And the reason for this behavior of the flower is that it is not allowed to rest. Amaryllis is one of those indoor plants that need a dormant period. If you give the plant rest to recuperate, it will still delight you with its flowering.
Amaryllis has a very interesting life cycle:
During the period of active growth, which lasts until autumn, it is better to plant amaryllis in the garden. According to the observations of gardeners who practice this method, the bulbs growing in the open field are larger than those that were left in the pot, which means that they have more nutrients.
Thus, a dormant period is necessary for the plant so that the bulbs can recover from such intense work as flowering and foliage. If such an opportunity is not provided to her, amaryllis will continue to grow and form new leaves, but a weakened bulb is unlikely to be able to bloom in a year or two.
Preparation of amaryllis for wintering should begin with the cessation of watering (gradual). In addition, the pot must be moved to a dark place. In the absence of watering and light, new roots and leaves will cease to form, and the deciduous cap will gradually fade.
When this happens, the bulb must be removed from the flowerpot, cleaned of soil and cut the roots. Then rinse in potassium permanganate and dry.
Bulbs should overwinter in a dark, cool place, but it is not easy to find this in an apartment. The balcony is not very suitable for wintering, especially an open one, because there the bulb will freeze and die.
The best option is storage on the bottom shelf in the refrigerator. The condition of the bulbs should be checked every two weeks. If not there too free space, then you can simply leave the onion in the flowerpot.
The onion should be wrapped in tissue or toilet paper before placing it in the refrigerator.
In mid-February, amaryllis must be removed from the refrigerator and put on forcing.
In our latitudes, the flowering period of amaryllis begins in August-September. After flowering, the leaves of amaryllis naturally dry out. In order for this to happen faster, you need to gradually reduce the frequency of watering. The peduncle must be cut off before the onset of the dormant period. After a dormant period in amaryllis and hippeastrum, leaves begin to grow again, and a flower stalk and buds are laid.
The dormant period for amaryllis is the end of autumn and the beginning of winter. In hippeastrum, the dormant period begins after the plant has bloomed, because hippeastrum can be driven out at any time of the year, and not only in late summer or early autumn. Early forcing in autumn or late is possible - then hippeastrum blooms in late winter or early spring. Some varieties bloom even in summer.
But whenever your amaryllis or hippeastrum blooms, it needs a rest period. So far only one is known evergreen species hippeastrum - Hippeastrum Papilio, for which there is no need for a rest period. The rest of the amaryllis and hippeastrum varieties should rest. If you planted amaryllis or hippeastrum for the summer in the ground, then it is necessary to dig its bulb out of the ground before frost and store it in a cool, dark, dry place.
However, after flowering amaryllis, the bulb is not immediately dug up, you must first let the leaves do the important work - to supply the bulb with nutrients.
In the period preceding dormancy, it is necessary to prepare the bulb and give it the opportunity to recover after flowering. The leaves should dry naturally, giving all the strength to the bulb. From mid-September, the frequency of watering amaryllis (or hippeastrum) is reduced. When the leaves turn yellow and die off completely, the plant itself will go into a dormant state.
The main dormant period in amaryllis is 2-3 autumn months. If the plant was planted for the summer in open ground, then the amaryllis after flowering must be dug out and transplanted into a pot even before frost.
Hippeastrum can be left in the ground for the winter. In general, it is enough to replant these flowers every 3-4 years. And in order for the hippeastrum in the garden to easily endure frosts, it must be covered with a dense layer of peat or other mulch.
But if you decide to take hippeastrum into the house for the winter, the main thing is to provide its bulb with a cool temperature in the range of 10-18 ° C.
At rest, amaryllis and hippeastrum bulbs should be kept in a cool room. It is best if the temperature is about 15 ° C, but a temperature of 10 ° C is also considered acceptable, and the upper indicator is 18 ° C. If it is colder, the bulb may hurt, and if it drops below 5 ° C, it may die.
Therefore, if you live in an area where the soil freezes below 5 ° C in winter, it is better to dig up the bulbs for the winter. This is especially true for amaryllis. Higher temperatures than 18ºC during the dormant period may cause the bulb to germinate too quickly.
This is also not very good, since the plant did not have time to rest, namely, full rest guarantees the laying of a healthy flower arrow.
During rest, watering the onion is only necessary so that it does not dry out - once a month and a half. Moreover, water must be poured into a pan so that the bulb does not rot in conditions of cool air and excess water.
You will know that the recovery period is over when the flower arrow appears at the amaryllis bulb. But active watering and feeding should be started only after this arrow stretches up to 10 cm. From this moment, a new growth cycle of amaryllis or hippeastrum begins. Now you need to learn how to care for amaryllis at home and in the garden, depending on where it will grow.
In a fairly cool climate of our region, one of the most beloved indoor plants is the amaryllis blooming in winter.
Modern varieties of this native of warm African countries can be completely different color shades - from pure white to purple, dark crimson and, no matter how strange it may seem, green. There are also representatives of this species with striped or double flowers.
This bulbous plant is considered one of, probably, the most convenient for forcing at home, which is within the power of even an inexperienced amateur florist.
Given that amaryllis blooms exclusively in the second half of winter, it is necessary to adhere to the seasonal rules for keeping this flower. There are few such rules, but still they exist, and this is especially true for the winter period. To understand some of the features of such seasonal characteristics of caring for amaryllis, let's trace the entire life cycle of a plant step by step.
Many indoor plant lovers are not fully familiar with how to properly prepare this flower for winter "hibernation". Let's consider what and how to do it.
Read about the nuances of planting and growing amaryllis, as well as the rules for caring for a flower here.
As mentioned above, for 7-8 months, amaryllis has an active growing season... During this time, the bulb of the plant devotes all its strength, first to pasturing a powerful and fleshy peduncle, then to flowering for two or three weeks, after which all the remaining strength goes into the growth of quite powerful and large leaves.
It is not at all surprising that after such a vegetative "marathon" the plant needs a certain period of time to recuperate.
A dormant period is simply necessary for amaryllis to restore the bulbs for subsequent growth and flowering cycles.
Exactly like this the dormant period occurs in the Amaryllis in the second half of September when the plant sheds all its foliage, slows down the growing processes and prepares for wintering.
After we notice that the foliage of the plant begins to lose its usually pronounced dark green color and wither, the amaryllis must be immediately helped to enter the dormant stage.
The temperature regime for wintering amaryllis bulbs should be such as not to allow vegetation processes to start. The temperature should be within + 2 + 15 degrees... Another necessary condition there should be a lack of light and low air humidity in the room where the amaryllis will winter.
If the flower is not helped to enter the dormant stage, its growth and the formation of new leaves will continue, which will greatly weaken the bulb and within 1-2 years the plant will lose its ability to bloom (about why amaryllis does not bloom and how to make it release buds, read here ). To do this, you need to take the following measures:
I would like to note a very common mistake of amateur gardeners who send amaryllis to rest without removing the bulb from the soil, that is, together with the pot. This is strongly discouraged. After the complete wilting of all the foliage on the plant, it must, as already mentioned a little above, be completely removed.
Thereafter the amaryllis bulb should be carefully removed from the pot along with the planting soil... Then you need to carefully free the rhizomes of the plant from this very planting soil, simultaneously checking if there are any damaged or dried root parts on the bulb and, if any, remove them with small scissors.
After such preliminary preparation, the bulb can be sent to rest in a cool and dark place, where it will recover within 3-5 months and gain strength for the next growing season.
Read more about why amaryllis leaves turn yellow, pests and fungal diseases appear, as well as how to cure a flower, read here.
Amaryllis are not only a model of beauty among flowers of this kind, but also a very, very unpretentious and easy-to-care plant. With proper maintenance in winter conditions, a bulb planted in mid-February in a flower pot will be able to please its owner of extraordinary beauty with flowering by the end of March.
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The successful cultivation of amaryllis requires compliance with the basic care measures.
Amaryllis needs a stream of soft light, which can be provided to the flower when the pot is placed on the windowsills of the southeast and southwest directions with additional protection from direct sunlight during the period of greatest solar activity. Curtains can be used as protection.
Important! During the summer season, daylight hours should be at least 16 hours.
Carefully! When growing a culture, one should not allow strong temperature changes that negatively affect the plant.
To obtain a flowering plant, you must select a small container. The soil for filling the pot is required with a slightly acidic reaction in the range of 6.0-6.5 points and a loose structure. The nutrient substrate, prepared from sod and leafy soil, sand and humus in a ratio of 2: 2: 2: 1, is calcined in an oven before use to destroy pathogens.
When watering a flower, which should be carried out after the earthen coma has dried, the lower method of moistening is used: the pot is placed in a pan with water for 20-30 minutes, which prevents unwanted water ingress on the bulb, which occurs with the upper method of irrigation. Amaryllis easily adapts to dry air in the apartment, so it does not need additional spraying.
Advice! To make it easier for the flower to breathe through the leaf plates, you should systematically wipe them from dust.
Attention! An excess of nitrogen in the soil can cause a red burn of the flower.
With the arrival of autumn, the flowering of the culture is noted, which, in contrast to the hippeastrum, occurs after the development of the green mass. V natural environment this period in which flowers bloom white and pink flowers falls in autumn. In culture, many varieties have been bred with a variety of colors... After flowering, the shoots die off naturally and no pruning is required.
The amaryllis flower is transplanted every 3-4 years after the end of flowering.
After the end of the flowering phase, the plant begins to prepare for a dormant period, which on average lasts 2 months: watering and feeding are reduced. The shedding of foliage signals the beginning of active growth of the bulb. At this time, the pot is moved to a dark room, where the temperature should not exceed 16 ° C. Moistening is carried out as needed, when the earthy clod dries up.
The flower is affected by diseases in the form of rot in case of violation of the maintenance regulations - excessive watering, high concentration of nitrogen-containing fertilizers in the substrate. With the intensive development of the disease, the plant may die. To prevent this, it is necessary to strictly comply with agrotechnical requirements. Among the pests noted on amaryllis, there are spider mite, mealybug and scale insects, which should be dealt with by spraying the plant with insecticidal preparations according to the instructions on the package.
Amaryllis is bred in two ways: generative and vegetative.
Due to the laboriousness of the method and the impossibility of maintaining varietal qualities, seed reproduction at home is extremely rare.
Attention! New plants obtained in this way will delight the first flowering only after a seven-year growth period.
Despite the unpretentiousness of the culture, non-observance of the basic agrotechnical requirements can lead to the loss of decorativeness by the flower or the complete absence of inflorescences.
Important! If less than three years have passed since planting the bulb, the absence of a flowering phase is a normal physiological process.
Often tropical hippeastrum South America, the genus of which has more than 85 species, are mistaken for amaryllis, represented by only one species.
So, the amaryllis flower represents a failure of a beautifully flowering plant, requiring minimal but proper care... Fulfillment of all the requirements for maintaining the culture at home will allow the grower to get a healthy plant with beautiful large inflorescences of wondrous beauty.
Amaryllis is a popular houseplant that is found in the flower collections of many growers. It is in demand due to its beautiful flowers and easy care. To make amaryllis feel comfortable in an apartment, you don't need to try too much. This task will be strong enough for beginners. If you want to start a plant at home with beautiful flowers, but do not want to do it too much, choose amaryllis, as it is best suited for these purposes.
In amaryllis, growing conditions differ depending on the phase of the growing season. So, in certain time the plant grows actively, and in another it has a dormant time. Florists need to be aware of the amaryllis' inability to survive in very cold conditions, when the temperature hovers around freezing. The opposite situation, when the air is very hot and humid, as in the tropics, will also be detrimental to the plant.
Ideal conditions for the growth of amaryllis in different phases of development.
The plant is very fond of moisture, therefore it is recommended to water it with regularly settled water at room temperature, it is possible through a sump, the excess water from which is drained after 6-8 hours. Make sure that the earthen lump is moist, but it is not necessary to bring the amount of moisture to excess. During flowering, even more water is needed. If it stagnates, then root rot, leaves wilting, and loss of flowers will begin. You can also spray the leaves - this will not damage the flowers. Moreover, it is recommended to moisturize the buds before flowering. Optimum humidity should be 60-80%.
During the dormant period, watering the plant at this time is prohibited. The soil is only periodically sprayed. Watering is resumed only when a new peduncle appears and grows up to 10 cm. In the place where the pot will stand during the dormant period, the humidity should be 60-70%.
Amaryllis needs to provide regular ventilation of the room, but without drafts.
Planting amaryllis at home photo
Before planting amaryllis, choose the most successful pot. It should be a heavy and stable vessel. The flower will try to grow a powerful and tall peduncle, as well as a large number of leaves, which means that it can overturn itself. In addition, when leaving, a light pot is more likely to hurt than a massive one.
The size of the vessel is chosen based on the parameters of the bulb. Ideally, it should be the main object in the pot. This means that it should be up to 3-5 cm from it to all the walls. As for the depth of the pot, it should be maximum, since the plant develops a large root system. You can choose a vessel that is wide at the bottom and tapers gradually upward.
It is very fashionable to plant several bulbs in one pot so that their simultaneous flowering is even more spectacular. In this case, the distance between them should be at least 2-3 cm.
Next, go to the choice of soil. The easiest option is to go to a specialized store and buy ready-made soil for bulbs there. But any experienced florist will give up this idea and go to prepare the substrate himself. Do not forget to sterilize the soil: for this, it is doused with strong boiling water or kept over hot steam for about half an hour. You can also freeze it in the freezer.
The composition of the substrate, which you can prepare yourself, often looks like one of the following options:
At the bottom, it is necessary to fill up drainage with a thickness of 2-3 cm. For this, you can take pebbles, gravel, expanded clay, available brick chips, small fragments of ceramics. Part of the drain is mixed with the substrate and spread over the surface of the pot. Also, a large hole is made in it to drain the water.
Drainage from above is covered with sand also 2-3 cm, in order to additionally be safe from root rot due to water accumulation.
Planting indoor amaryllis photo
To plant a new plant, you need to choose the most beautiful and strong bulbs with a smooth surface that have reasonably good roots. It is necessary to ensure that the bulb does not have cracks, dents, scratches, places of rotting and mildew, stains. If the bulb has an unpleasant sweet odor, it is also not worth picking.
After planting the amaryllis bulbs, the substrate is poured on the sides
The bulb is placed in the ground with a blunt end and then soil is poured so that about half or a third of the bulb in height remains above the surface.
How to transplant amaryllis at home
Amaryllis transplant is carried out after it has faded, waiting for the peduncle to completely wither.
There is no need to transplant the plant every year, and the operation is performed no more than once every three years. If the amaryllis is growing too quickly, you can transplant earlier.
To renew the soil mixture and give the plant more nutrients, replace the top 3-4 centimeters of soil in the pot with new ones every year.
Before a mature plant is planted in another pot, it needs to be fed. Several sticks of Agricola or other mineral fertilizer.
Breeders and flower growers use all three possible methods of reproduction of amaryllis - by dividing the bulb, children and seeds.
Amaryllis seeds photo How to get amaryllis seeds
This is the longest and least successful breeding method. If the seeds are harvested from hybrid plants, varietal characteristics are not preserved, and flowering appears only after 8 years. The only advantage is the slow aging of the bulbs.
Amaryllis seeds at home
To obtain seeds, you need two amaryllis. With a brush, pollen is taken from one and applied to the pistil of the other. As a result, a box is formed, in which the seeds will ripen later. Ripening takes at least a month.
Amaryllis from seed seedlings photo
How to cut amaryllis bulbs photo
This is the most risky method, as you can be left with nothing.
Many growers successfully use the division of the bulb to propagate amaryllis, it is important to just do everything right and not be afraid to take risks.
The most successful way to reproduce amaryllis. After 2-3 years after planting, the bulb will bloom. The daughter bulbs are planted in the same way as the new store bulbs, but choose a slightly larger pot. This is due to the rapid growth of children.
Amaryllis is an exotic plant, but it is quite real in everyone's house. If you follow the rules for its care, you can often enjoy its flowers.
Amaryllis planting and care at home photo
During growth, amaryllis is watered carefully. This is done when the peduncle has a height of at least 10 cm. This flower likes to receive a lot of water, but not in a stagnant state. Sometimes it is better to give up watering than to flood the plant. It is best to add water to the pot every four days, making sure that no water gets onto the bulb during watering. It should fall especially on the soil around.
In winter, the plant should not receive so much water. It is enough to spray no more than once a week.
It is also possible to use natural organic fertilizers - fresh manure is diluted from a ratio of 1.5 cups in 10 liters of water, and bird droppings - a third of a glass per 10 liters.
When the leaves die off completely, feeding stops. It is not carried out even in the resting phase.
Wild amaryllis enters the flowering phase in early autumn. In indoor floriculture, there are tricks on how to change this term. The easiest one is to plant the bulbs at a different time. So, when choosing healthy specimens, they begin to grow immediately after planting, giving mature flower stalks as early as 7-8 weeks. Here you need to observe - if there are more than two peduncles, they are removed so as not to abundantly load the bulb with flowering.
When the first flower appeared and blossomed, some cut the peduncle and put it in a vase. Provided that the water is renewed every day, it can stay there for up to three weeks. You can not cut the peduncle, but it will stand the same, and will drain the bulb much more. To maximize flowering time, place the vase or flowerpot in a colder, darker place.
Why Amaryllis Doesn't Blossom How to Make Amaryllis Blossom
You must understand what is the reason for the listed ones you have. It needs to be eliminated and the result is expected.
Another option (but risky) is to dig up the bulbs, peel them and fold them into carton boxes for storage. But you can disrupt some process and cause the roots to dry out.
Experienced flower growers know the tricks that make their amaryllis bloom twice a year - in early autumn and early spring. For this, a period of rest is strictly organized for the rest of the bulb and the accumulation of necessary nutrients. In January, they take out pots with amaryllis from the resting place, put them on a bright and warm place, and water them. Monitor soil moisture. All this stimulates a phase of rapid growth.
red burn of amaryllis photo
Rot on the amaryllis photo
The defeat of the amaryllis with an onion tick photo
The defeat of amaryllis with thrips photo
Mealybug on amaryllis photo
Scabbard on amaryllis photo
Aphids on amaryllis photo
Legs on the amaryllis photo
The stores sell modern hybrid varieties of amaryllis, which are selectively bred. The real Amaryllis belladonna is extremely rare and appreciated by avid growers.
At the moment, breeders are achieving the following tasks:
This does not mean that classic varieties of amaryllis are not in demand on the market. Standard varieties such as Durban (carmine flowers with a white vein in the middle), Gorgeous Pink (pink-white petals), Parker (yellow center and purple-pink edges), Maxima (flowers are bright Pink colour with a strong aroma), Hathor (yellow center and white petals) are equally popular.
Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences photo In the photo amaryllis
Amaryllis and hippeastrum from the Amaryllis family. Only in the first kind is it significant more plants... Only in the wild, at least 90 species grow, and with breeding varieties, the hippeastrum family numbers up to 2000 varieties. They have a lot in common with amaryllis, so even experienced sellers can confuse these plants.
Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences In the photo hippeastrum
In order not to repeat itself, below each first point refers to amaryllis, the second to hippeastrum.
Planting and flowering amaryllis Amaryllis reproduction and care at home
Amaryllis (Latin Amaryllis) is the most common genus of the Amaryllis family (Latin Amaryllidaceae). Initially, botanists attributed one type of plant to it - Amaryllis belladonna (or Amaryllis belladonna). Over time, approaches to taxonomy changed, and two more species of amaryllis were included here - Amaryllis sarniensis and Amaryllis paradisicola.
Amaryllis belladonna comes from southern Africa. Researchers say the plant spread from the Oliphants River valley in the Cape province of South Africa. As for other species, here the geography is wider - South Africa, Japan, Australia, some islands of the English Channel - they can be considered the birthplace of plants.
The genus amaryllis was first described by the famous Swedish scientist Karl Linnaeus in 1753, who was engaged in taxonomy. The merit of the name of this flower belongs to him. Before his work, it was believed that amaryllis is only one of the subspecies of lilies. He was called lilionarcissus. Linnaeus realized that this is a separate plant, but introduced a significant error in taxonomy, including a number of hippeastrum varieties in the amaryllis genus. To this day, many people confuse these plants.
The name of the plant is first encountered in the work of Virgil. In his poems, you can find the heroine - the shepherdess Amaryllis or Amaryllis. This name in Greek means "sparkling".
Amaryllis flowers care Amaryllis flower photo
Amaryllis is a bulbous perennial flower with dark green smooth leaves. The greens of the plant are so narrow and long that they look like a belt. The leaves are arranged in two rows.
The commemoration of the beginning of flowering of amaryllis is the growth of a long hollow tube of 40-60 cm - this is a peduncle. The plant produces up to three peduncles. Leaves follow. In the wild, this occurs in late summer - early autumn. Each peduncle bears 2-12 flowers, depending on the variety. By the type of inflorescence - an umbrella.
Wild amaryllis can have flowers with white, pink and red petals in various shades. Breeders have artificially bred many hybrid varieties of yellow, purple, orange, green. A single amaryllis flower looks like a lily and is a gramophone, measuring 10-12 centimeters in diameter.
Amaryllis belladonna Amaryllis Belladonna planting and care at home photo
Despite the seeming beauty of the plant, amaryllis has poisonous parts. The alkaloid lycorin was found in the bulb. If it gets on your skin, it will irritate. All planting operations with the plant must be carried out exclusively with rubber gloves, and then wash your hands with soap and water. Keep the flower away from pets and children.
Every 2-3 years During active growth 18-22, during rest - about 15 During flowering - when the topsoil dries up, do not water during the rest period Only buds if the air is too dry Bright diffused light, southwest and southeast windows Poisonous sap, adherence to periods of growth and rest
During growth, the plant prefers bright diffused light; in summer, direct rays of the sun are permissible only between 11:00 and 15:00.
For normal development, amaryllis requires 16 hours of daylight... Amaryllis bulbs do not need light during the dormant period.
The best place for the plant will be windows facing southwest and southeast. On the south window, the amaryllis will have to be shaded from the midday sun.
During the growth of the peduncle and leaves, the plant must be constantly turned so that the peduncle does not bend.
Temperature regime during active growth:
Amaryllis bulbs should be kept in a cool place during the dormant period.... The optimum temperature will be about 15 ° C, the minimum is 10 ° C, and the maximum is 18 ° C. At a low temperature, the bulb may die, and at a high temperature, it will germinate too quickly, not allowing the plant to fully rest.
In the summer, it is not advisable to take the flower out of the room, since the differences in day and night temperatures in the middle lane are significant. This plant does not like a sharp decrease or increase in temperature, which can lead to a lack of flowering.
For this flower, a dormant period is necessary. But it is not always possible to keep a flower in a cold room. In order for amaryllis to successfully overwinter and release a peduncle in the spring, it can be kept at a room temperature of 20-22 ° C, but in relative dryness. In this case, the flower will not grow in winter.
During flowering, amaryllis needs abundant watering - the soil should be moist, but not waterlogged. Watering frequency - the topsoil should dry out slightly between waterings. Water the plant with settled water at room temperature... It is important that no water gets on the bulbs.
When flowering is over, watering is reduced, and after 2 months they completely stop.
During this time, amaryllis loses leaves, and a dormant period begins, during which the plant does not need to be watered.
After the end of the dormant period, when the peduncle reaches a height of 10 cm (but not earlier!), They switch to the usual watering regime, taking into account the temperature and dryness of the air in the room.
If the air in the room is too dry, it is allowed to spray the buds a little... It is strictly forbidden to spray flowers, leaves, as well as bulbs during the dormant period.
For amaryllis, a soil consisting of sod land (2 parts), peat (1 part), humus (1 part) and sand (1 part) is suitable. The acidity index of the soil should be pH 6.0–6.5.
You can also use a different soil composition for planting this plant. Here are the ingredients:
Sand can be replaced with leavening agents such as perlite or vermiculite. The specified composition of the soil will ensure the outflow of excess water into the sump when watering.
Also, in order to prevent stagnation of water in the soil, a drainage layer is laid on the bottom of the pot. Good drainage necessary to prevent decay of roots and bulbs.
For amaryllis, light and loose soil, slightly acidic or with neutral acidity, is suitable. Such soil mixtures for decorative flowering bulbous plants are always on sale. The easiest way to get them is from flower shops or garden centers.
During active growth and flowering, feeding is carried out 1 time in 10 days. For this, a complex liquid fertilizer is used, suitable for flowering plants.
At the end of flowering, fertilizing is reduced, and after wilting of the leaves, they stop altogether.... Fertilization is resumed only with the appearance of flower stalks from the bulb.
Fertilizing the soil for amaryllis begins when flower stalks appear from the bulb in spring. Liquid complex fertilizers are used for flowering plants or special formulations for bulbous plants.
It is important not to overfeed the plants after leaf formation and flowering. This species grows leaves after the formation of a peduncle. The plant is fed only with fertilizer for flowering plants, never using formulations for deciduous varieties. This maximizes flowering and slows down leaf growth.
Amaryllis is undemanding to air humidity, so there is no need to spray it.
The main thing is that the humidity is not too high - 80% or more, otherwise it can lead to fungal diseases.
For hygiene and prevention of pest infestation, it is recommended to regularly wipe the leaves or wash them with a shower.
For normal development and abundant flowering of amaryllis, special care rules are required during growth and rest. Also, amaryllis is a poisonous plant and you only need to work with it with gloves.
Do not forget that amaryllis is a poisonous indoor plant. Do not allow the juice to come into contact with the skin or food. But do not rush to get rid of the plant - when growing it, it is enough just to follow the precautions.
Consider how to care for amaryllis at home in different phases. At home, amaryllis is grown as a common houseplant until late autumn. At this time, it is regularly watered and fed.
After flowering amaryllis, you need to remove the peduncles. The leaves do not need to be touched - they will be a source of nutrients for the bulb.
In order for amaryllis to bloom in winter, the bulbs need to provide a dormant period.... To do this, from August, you need to reduce watering and stop feeding. After three weeks, watering should also be stopped. At the same time, the leaves should turn yellow and wither on their own, after which they must be cut to a height of 5 cm from the bulb.
In September and early October, the bulbs are planted in a pot and harvested in a dark, dry and cool (13-15 ° C) place. The dormant period will begin when no green leaves remain on the plant and will last 6–8 weeks.
Around November, the pot with the plant is placed in a lighted place and watered regularly. From this point on, the growth period begins again.
Before and after flowering, keep the soil moist and rotate the plant constantly for even growth. During this period, the optimum temperature will be 13-18 ° C. After 4-8 weeks after resuming watering, the amaryllis should bloom.
Amaryllis bloom in late autumn or early winter. A flowering plant throws out a powerful peduncle, at the end of which an inflorescence is located. Usually, the plant has no leaves during flowering. Sometimes, together with the peduncle, 1 pair of leaves grows.
At optimal care amaryllis blooms once a year. However, you can get flowers twice a year without harming the plant. For this, adult specimens are suitable, with a bulb diameter of at least 5 cm. They will bloom in the summer, provided that they are regularly fed in the spring.
To induce the natural flowering of amaryllis in the summer, you need to create an additional dormant period for it. To do this, you need to move it from a lighted place to a shaded one, away from the window.
Watering is reduced by 2-3 weeks. After 2 weeks in the shade, its leaves gradually die off, and a peduncle grows from the top of the bulb.
After the formation of the peduncle, the plant is watered as usual. Now it can be transferred to the windowsill, where it will soon bloom.
Amaryllis can be attacked by fungal infections such as gray mold. Signs of infestation: brown spots or stripes on flowers, stems or bulbs, or grayish velvety bloom on leaves.
As a rule, too humid air and waterlogging of the soil lead to the disease.
The causative agents of this disease live in the soil, so a diseased plant must be transplanted. In addition, they are treated with special preparations - fungicides.
The plant can be infested with thrips or aphids... Signs: Leaves turn yellow and deformed.
Small reddish specks may appear when infested with mites. In the fight against pests, insecticide treatment, which must be carried out several times, will help.
Amaryllis can be propagated by babies separated from the mother's bulb and by seeds. Before transplanting amaryllis, you need to choose the appropriate method.
This is the simplest and most common way. Regrown babies are separated from the mother plant during the spring transplant..
First, they are grown in small containers with a sand-perlite mixture or sphagnum, and then transplanted.
In this case, the composition of the soil, the height of the planting of the bulb, the capacity of the pot should be the same as when transplanting an adult plant. Young bulbs grow rapidly and bloom for 2-3 years.
Growing amaryllis at home is a rather long, laborious and unreliable way. To obtain seeds, pollen is transferred from one plant to another with a brush. Amaryllis seeds ripen for about a month, after which they are planted in the soil and watered abundantly.
Seedlings should appear in a month. Grown young plants are planted one by one in separate small pots. Amaryllis grown from seed only bloom for 7 years.
Amaryllis is a perennial plant, so there is no need to transplant it annually. It will be enough just to replace the top layer of the soil. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the root system. In addition, the bulb must not be filled up above the previous soil level.
Usually amaryllis is transplanted every 2-4 years., or when you need to separate the babies from the mother's bulb for reproduction.
The best time to transplant amaryllis at home is 3-5 weeks after flowering ends.
This is due to the fact that the bulb greatly decreases in size during flowering due to the consumption of nutrients contained in it.
When transplanting, the pot is selected with a diameter equal to the onion plus 1.5-2.0 cm on all sides- in tight containers, amaryllis begin to bloom faster and more abundantly.
Dry and withered outer scales are removed from the faded amaryllis, and bad roots are removed from the bulb and children with roots are separated.
If the bulb has no roots at all, it can still be replanted.- roots will grow back in 4-6 weeks. A drainage layer is laid on the bottom - expanded clay, broken shards, gravel, and it is advisable to pour a little sand under the bulb. The soil is taken of the same composition (see above). The bulb is buried in the ground by half or 2/3 of its height.
Amaryllis is a bulbous flowering plant native to South Africa. It has a large pear-shaped bulb, the diameter of which can reach 10 cm.
The leaves of the plant are narrow and long, reaching 30 cm in length. Amaryllis blooms in late autumn or early winter. The flowers are large, there are up to 12 of them on one peduncle. The peduncle of the plant is long, up to 40 cm, juicy and fleshy.
More recently, the Amaryllis Belladonna species was considered unique in its genus. Today, another species of this genus has been found - Amaryllis Paradisicol.
Amaryllis Belladonna- a very popular plant in indoor floriculture. Due to its compact size and flowers of amazing beauty, this species is widespread in the collections of lovers of flowering plants almost everywhere. Wild flowers have pink, red and even purple hues.
This species gave rise to many varieties, distinguished by unusual color, size of flowers and shape of petals. There are large-flowered, variegated varieties and varieties with narrow petals. Here are some popular amaryllis varieties:
Amaryllis Paradisicola differs from the previous species in a large number of flowers in the inflorescence. There can be up to 21 of them. All flowers of the species have a uniform pink tint and a pleasant aroma. Not common in indoor floriculture.
Now you know everything about caring for amaryllis at home.
4 parts: Caring for amaryllis after flowering Caring for amaryllis in summer Caring for amaryllis in autumn Preparing for a new bloom
Amaryllis flowers usually appear in winter or spring, in the last few weeks before disappearing. Compared to most flowers, amaryllis bulbs bloom easily extra times, but for best results, proper care is needed all year round to make sure they grow properly every season. If your amaryllis flowers fell off some time ago, you still have a chance of success, provided that autumn period the rest has not yet begun.
After the flower has been removed, cut the flower where it meets the main stem with a clean knife or scissors. Be sure to remove the green clump and the thin green stem that adjoins the flower.
This prevents the plant from producing seeds, which requires a lot of energy to go into growth.
The main stems contain food and water for the plant, but they will most likely start drooping or yellowing soon after the flowers are gone.
They are no longer useful and should be cut back within 2 inches (5 cm) of the bulb.
Most people keep the amaryllis plant indoors while they bloom in the winter. If so, move the plant to a windowsill with indirect sunlight to allow the flower to adjust to the increased sunlight.
You can skip this step if the plant has already been exposed to indirect or total sunlight.
Your amaryllis will likely require daily watering unless kept in a humid environment or planted outside in moist soil.
Don't let the soil dry out completely, at least for no longer than a few hours.
Continue watching the summer section as soon as the weather turns warm. Depending on your local climate, this usually starts in May or June in the northern hemisphere. In the southern hemisphere, warm weather usually begins in December or January.
After the last frost has passed and the weather has consistently turned warm, plant the container outside in a flower garden or garden. Sit him down at or just above the surface. Choose a location that gets full morning light, if possible, but is protected from the sun during the hottest part of the day.
Check the soil daily for water when it is dry or nearly dry. Water the soil around the plant, not the leaves or bulbs. Avoid watering any plants during the hottest part of the day, as hot water can burn the plants.
Make your bulbs strong and healthy by applying a balanced fertilizer to the soil every two weeks. Use soluble houseplant fertilizer and apply as directed.
Do not apply more than instructed.
Continue reading the section on autumn, when the weather cools the plant and the leaves change color. If the leaves begin to turn yellow, which is normal, the plant will enter its dormant period. This usually happens in early autumn. Expect these changes in August or September if you live in the northern hemisphere, and in March or April if you live in the southern hemisphere.
Reduce watering gradually as the leaves die off. Amaryllis must be shedding foliage as summer ends and fall begins. When this starts to happen, start giving the plant a little less water, but don't let the soil dry out completely.
Cut off any yellow or brown leaves as soon as they have withered by cutting them near the neck of the bulb. Leave green leaves on the plant.
As soon as the weather gets cooler and most of the leaves have died, move the amaryllis indoors. Place the pot in a cool, dark place between 40 and 50ºF (5-10ºC), such as a basement.
If you don't have a suitable potting area, you can gently lift the bulbs and roots out of the soil and place them in a fresher (plant box) from the refrigerator.
Leave the amaryllis in a cool, dark place for at least six weeks. Do not water it during this time, but remove any remaining leaves when they dry up.
The plant must experience this dormant period of the bulb in order to bloom again.
Proceed to the next section after 6-8 weeks. If you want the amaryllis to re-bloom by a specific date, such as Christmas, remove the bulb from a cool place at least six weeks before that day.
Take under the surface of the soil and squeeze it gently. If the bulb is soft, it may rot and become unusable.
If you are unsure, you can try to re-regenerate the bulb one way or another, but purchase a spare amaryllis in case the original bulb dies.
Like most plants, amaryllis plants grow better in some types of soil, and within 1-3 years they can remove nutrients from the soil. It is not difficult to get amaryllis to re-bloom if you use special potting mixes. Amaryllis roots are easily damaged during transplanting, so if you are not used to transplanting flowers, you can replace the top 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) of the soil.
Water the soil thoroughly if you are replanting it. If you transplant the bulbs into a new pot, you must water the soil thoroughly and allow excess water to drain through the base of the pot. After the initial watering, you should keep the soil moist but not flooded like in summer or fall.
The ideal temperature for amaryllis blooms is between 55 and 65ºF (13-18ºC). Higher temperatures can lead to floppies, weak leaves and stems.
Cooler temperatures may prevent or slow growth.
While new amaryllis usually have a flower in front of the leaves, they can appear in any order when they bloom again.
Keep the soil moist, but do not flood, and expect a new flower or flowers for about six weeks after transferring it to a warm area.
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Amaryllis* (Amaryllis, Hippeastrum)- one of our favorite indoor plants, especially in a fairly cold Russian climate, with an almost six-month period of snow and lack of access to such natural gardening work on your beloved garden plot! Modern amaryllis varieties are very varied in color and, as a rule, are crowned with large bell-shaped flowers of various shades from pure white to dark crimson, purple and even green. There are varieties with double and pronounced striped flowers. The homeland of this unusual flower is South America.
(* The commercial name Amaryllis refers to representatives of two species - Amaryllis belladonna and Hippeastrum garden. Here we are talking about hippeastrum, see the description on the page Hippeastrum (Ed.)
source http://www.greeninfo.ru/indoor_plants/amaryllis.html/Article/_/aID/4671
Amaryllis are bulbous plants with linear, rather long, oblong leaves. In culture, hybrid amaryllis and hippeastrum are more common. Amaryllis are among the best forcing plants, as they are easily driven out in indoor conditions even by the most unprepared hobbyists. Typically, each bulb produces one or two long flower arrows with 4-6 huge flowers, reaching 20 cm in diameter and sometimes even more. It happens that well-developed bulbs also give a third arrow, but I usually remove it at the very early stage of its development, because I believe that the third flowering is very significantly inferior in beauty and abundance of flowering to the previous two and, most importantly, greatly weakens the mother bulb. which is fraught with a lack of flowering next year.
Amaryllis normally bloom in late winter or in early spring... Some species and varieties can bloom in summer or autumn. With the help of forcing, with some little knowledge and skills, in principle, amaryllis can be made to bloom at any time of the year that suits you. The height of the peduncles averages 0.4-0.7 m and strongly depends on the characteristics of a particular variety. The same applies to the size of each individual flower.
In fact, the popularly beloved flowers are representatives of two different genera (hippeastrum and amaryllis) or their hybrids. By the nature of flowering, planting and caring for them, these two plants differ little from each other. In the first and simplest approximation, their difference is only in the size of the flower, the height of the peduncles and the size of the bulbs. Most often, in hippeastrum, all this is larger. Other differences for us flower growers are of little importance, therefore, for simplicity, we will use the name common to these plants - amaryllis. By the way, hippeastrum means "big knightly star" in translation.
Depending on the size of the bulb, amaryllis is planted in an individual (rather heavy) pot 15-20 cm in size or in a small group, at a distance of 10 cm from each other in a slightly larger container or container. Avoid light pots that can tip over during the flowering of amaryllis or from minor gusts of wind when the foliage and peduncles are sufficiently windy. With a blunt end (usually with remnants of roots), the bulbs are buried in well-drained, humus-rich soil. Thoroughly tamp the soil mixture around the bulbs so that about half or at least a third of the bulb remains above the soil surface. In the lower part of the earthen coma, almost above the drainage itself, you can horizontally put one or one and a half sticks of any complex fertilizer with prolonged action that you have tested, having previously divided them in half.
After planting or transplanting, the amaryllis pot is placed on a bright window in a warm enough place and watered with water at room temperature. For planting, an earthen mixture is used, consisting of approximately equal parts of sod, leaf, humus earth and sand. When transplanting, the roots are shaken off the old soil, and the roots that have rotted in an old pot or dried out during long-term storage are removed.
Before planting, it is highly advisable to first remove all dried outer bulb scales that are black or dark brown in color for several reasons. First, by peeling the bulb to live and elastic white or light green tissues and placing your plant in the light, you thereby stimulate the production of chlorophyll in them and, as it were, stimulate or start all the necessary life processes in a plant that is often still dormant or resting, if we are talking about a planned transplant this plant... Secondly, if we are talking about newly acquired specimens, behind the dead covering shells, there can be anything - and small hidden foci of rot, and disease-causing spores, and even young babies that have grown into growth. Therefore, I strongly advise you before planting to carefully remove all external dark and even light, but already lost their elasticity outer shells, and separate all sufficiently large and viable children. Further, it will be useful to treat your bulbs almost to the very neck for half an hour with some fungicide or at least a dark solution of potassium permanganate. Then, having dried them well for several hours, or even days, you can start planting the prepared plants. Places that arouse you suspicion can be pre-treated with Maxim, Fitosporin, or at least ordinary brilliant green. But they, too, must be well pre-dried before planting!
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Very small, slightly biting babies are removed or left on the bulb, depending on your further goals and preferences in relation to this variety or specifically in relation to this specimen or specific bulb. They can be left if you need to quickly propagate this variety or remove them if abundant and long flowering is more important to you. It must be remembered that the presence of children can lead to a delay or even a prolonged absence of flowering in some varieties. The intensive education of children is facilitated by a very spacious container in which they grow. The plant seems to understand - why strain and try to reproduce through flowering and setting seeds, if it is possible to multiply its offspring more naturally and faster vegetatively.
Therefore, pots for planting amaryllis are taken mainly of small diameter, the distance between the wall and the bulb of which should be only 1.5-2 cm! Less is possible! As mentioned above, in a spacious container, the plant forms many children and does not bloom for a long time. At the same time, well-developed amaryllis roots need a lot of space, so the pot should be deep enough and wide at the bottom. Good drainage is also imperative, since most of the roots are located in this part of the pot. Expanded clay or fine gravel can be used as drainage. It is advisable to use ceramic pots, without enamel. This promotes better ventilation and aeration of the root system.
Adult plants are transplanted approximately every 2 years, younger plants are transplanted as needed and the bulb grows. The top layer of the earth, whenever possible, for all plants is replaced annually.
Amaryllis are light-loving plants, they feel very good on the southeast and southwest windows. You can also put on the southern windows, but in the daytime it is better to shade the pots from direct sunlight. As the leaves and flower arrow grow, the plant must be periodically rotated slightly so that the stem stretching towards the light returns to an upright position.
Water the newly planted plant very sparingly so as not to overwhelm the bulb and roots until the new leaves or flower start growing and reach about 5-7 cm in height. Depending on the variety, amaryllis may have foliage or a flower first - either of these options is normal, but flower stalks still appear more often. After the leaves or arrow of the flower has started to grow, the soil should be kept sufficiently moist. But it must be borne in mind that with a strong excess of moisture, thick roots that have not yet taken root and properly rooted can rot, or even the bulb itself, especially if before that it had areas affected by decay. In the absence of leaves and cold weather or a windowsill, moisture from pots, especially plastic ones, evaporates slowly, and this can provoke rotting of roots and bulbs.
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A powerful, well-developed bulb starts growing or throws out flower stalks almost immediately after planting. And within seven to eight weeks, depending on the variety and variety of amaryllis, you will receive one or two powerful peduncles, each of which will have three to five, and sometimes six beautiful flowers. To prolong their bloom, keep the pot in a cool place and not in direct sunlight. If a third flower arrow suddenly appears, then it is better to break it off immediately at the base and not allow the bulb to bloom a third time, since three times flowering greatly depletes the bulb. The peduncle immediately after the opening of the first flower can be safely cut off and placed in the water in a narrow high vase; it is advisable to renew the water every day. The flowering time of each flower stalk in the cut and on the bulb is almost the same, but at the same time you significantly reduce the depletion of the bulbs and thereby often stimulate the emergence of a new peduncle.
In summer, the plants are watered abundantly (but not often!) As needed, and fed every two weeks. On sunny days, only the pots are shaded; you can spray the foliage in the evening or in the morning. In the daytime, it is better not to do this, since water droplets can become microlenses and simply burn the leaves, concentrating the sun's rays on them. Amaryllises can also be taken out into the open air - a balcony, an external window sill, or even planted in a garden, protecting the mouth of the bulb from heavy rainfall and excessive moisture in the earthen coma.
You can help the amaryllis bloom again next year. You only need a little extra care of this plant, and he will repay you a hundredfold. After the end of flowering, the peduncles should be immediately removed, cutting them at about 3-4 cm from its base. Continue to water the plant periodically as the top layer of the earthen coma dries. Amaryllis should also be fed regularly, about once every two weeks or ten days, preferably with liquid fertilizers for bulbous plants. Amaryllis react very well to liquid complex fertilizer "Izumrud". The more amaryllis leaves during the spring and summer, the better. They will help the plant to stock up on the necessary energy for the next flowering. At the same time, under favorable conditions for the plant, either a flower bud or a baby's embryo is laid behind every fourth leaf. And depending on the size of the pot, the care of the plant and some other external conditions, they may well start growing and reward you with either a beautiful flower or a new plant.
Amaryllis are highly valued precisely because the time of their flowering, by properly regulating the dormant period, can be timed to almost any desired date. But it is still better to do this from December to April for two reasons. These terms are more natural for a given plant. In this case, the bulbs are less depleted and better tolerate this event, which, in other words, passes for them with the least losses. In this case, your collection will bloom beautifully and almost continuously every year, and the bulbs will recover normally in the spring-summer period. In industrial conditions, forcing for cutting is carried out almost all year round.
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At the end of August - September, stop feeding and start reducing the amount of watering until they stop completely at the end of October - November. By this time, the amaryllis will begin to gradually shed the leaves, and the nutrients from them will gradually pass into the bulb. Due to a significant decrease in watering and natural light, in October - November, all leaves should naturally die off. It is not worthwhile to specially cut off the leaves that have not yet wilted, since when they die off, all organic substances from them pass into the bulb, making the necessary supply of nutrients for the subsequent abundant flowering. But sometimes one or two leaves that have not wilted remain on the bulb for a rather long time. If they do not interfere with further storage of the amaryllis pot, you can leave them. Often they are carefully bent or cut at the base of the bulb to save space when storing them, for example, on shelves in a cool closet or a warm enough garage where the temperature does not drop below freezing in winter.
At rest, the bulbs usually retain living roots, at least skeletal and the largest, so they need to be watered occasionally (once every 15-20 days). The bulbs do not need light during rest, so they can be placed in a dark, cool and always dry place. Pots with resting bulbs are kept at a temperature of about + 5- + 12 ° C. Leave the resting bulbs in pots or loose in boxes for at least eight to nine weeks. Remember: the bulbs of hippeastrum and amaryllis are not frost-resistant and are very afraid of even a short-term drop in temperature to negative values.
At home, the normal flowering period for amaryllis is mid-February - first half of March. Very often, amaryllis bloom precisely on Valentine's Day or on March 8, which for many years replaced Valentine's Day in our country. 7-10 weeks before the desired flowering time, bring the rested bulbs into a warmer, brighter room as described above. The amount of watering should be adjusted depending on the intensity of foliage growth, the temperature and dryness of the surrounding air, as well as the humidity of the earthen coma. By following these easy guidelines, you will be rewarded with regular flowering of your amaryllis every year.
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It is advisable to replant and change the soil in pots every 1-2 years. The root system is not cut off during planting and transplanting, but only diseased and dried roots are removed, sprinkling the cuts with crushed charcoal... When transplanting, the children, which often appear on the bulbs, are carefully separated and, if necessary, planted in separate pots, indicating the variety. Babies usually bloom around the third year after separation and transplantation. When transplanting, the diameter of the dishes is increased only slightly, since in the "cramped" dishes amaryllis bloom more readily and much faster.
Transplant plants better in spring, about 3-5 weeks after flowering. This is due to the fact that faded bulbs are greatly depleted and reduced in diameter, since flowering occurs almost exclusively due to the reserves of the bulb itself. Faded plants are thoroughly cleaned of withered and dried outer scales and transplanted into smaller pots with a new nutrient substrate. Amaryllis pots are discussed above. In summer, they are kept in the same way as young plants, regularly feeding.
As the diameter of the bulb increases, it can be transferred into a slightly larger container. But this must be done very carefully so as not to severely damage the earthen ball and roots. At this moment, you can insert mineral nutrient sticks (fertilizers) of prolonged action into the lower part of the earthen coma. In a normally developing plant, the root system densely and evenly penetrates the entire earthen lump and does not allow it to fall apart. If this is not the case, then you need to understand what prevents the plant from developing normally and take all the necessary measures to eliminate these unfavorable factors.
Amaryllidaceae are propagated by seeds and baby bulbs. Seed propagation is practiced only for selection and hybridization; for amateur floriculture, this propagation method is considered very costly and ineffective. I will share a little my sad experience. In my school years, I wanted to understand what would happen when crossing red and white amaryllis. At the same time, I received seeds on both white and red specimens. There were a lot of seeds in all the seed pods. Germination was good and almost all planted seeds taken from both amaryllis sprouted. There were about a hundred seedlings, I just didn't plant more, due to the lack of space. Gradually growing up, they began to take up more and more space, and I had to compact them or distribute them to friends. Having reached adulthood, they all bloomed, but I never got any outstanding or at least white-pink colors. Almost all colors were in red. After polling all the acquaintances with whom I shared the seedlings, I realized that their colors were almost completely identical to mine. This whole experiment took me about 5 years. Perhaps I was just unlucky, but with that my desire to become a “breeder” of Amaryllis faded.
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improvement or search for new varieties with classic large flowers of double and non-double forms. I would like to note such terry varieties as Celica, Double Roma, Double Dragon, Ice Queen, Pink Nymph, Merry Christmas, Macarena, Promise and others. Among the non-double monochrome forms, for my taste are very interesting varieties Black Pearl, Ampulo, Benfica, Exotica, Faro, Lemon Lime, Moonlight, Matterhorn, Rosalie, White Baby and etc.;
search for fundamentally new two- or multi-color colors, or giving new shades to existing ones. I would like to mention such modern varieties as Charisma, Gervesa, Temptatia, Prelude, Misty, Clown, Neon, Estella, Santa Cruz, Papillio, Pizazz and etc.;
search for new flower forms, for example, the so-called narrow-petal varieties of amaryllis or "spiders", from the English "spider" - a spider. This group includes varieties Spotty, Santana, Grandeur, Night Star, Chico, Lima, Evergreen, La Paz and others. All of them look very beautiful in group compositions, but single flowers, in my opinion, are very inferior to large-flowered hybrids.
In the southern regions of the Russian Federation, amaryllis can be grown in the open field, but, be sure to remember that it is afraid of freezing temperatures. If there is a threat of frost, amaryllis bulbs should be brought into rooms with a controlled temperature in advance. Planting bulbs in open ground should mainly be in sunny places or partial shade only after the disappearance of the threat of recurrent frosts.
In most regions of the Russian Federation, in winter, amaryllis hibernates only as a houseplant with a pronounced dormant period from about the end of October to the beginning of February.
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Home " Foundation " How to store amaryllis bulbs in winter. Rules for caring for amaryllis in winter: features of growth and storage
Do you know for sure which flower grows on your windowsill: amaryllis or hippeastrum? Will you be able to distinguish when buying a bulb of these plants?
The confusion arose due to the fact that most varieties of hippeastrum came from crossing it with amaryllis, and besides, both of these plants belong to the Amaryllis family, therefore both hippeastrum and amaryllis itself are commonly called amaryllis.
However, despite the strong similarity, these are still two different plants... From the article on our website you will learn:
Modern flower growers will not be frightened by difficulties, because lovers of garden bulbous flowers undertake to grow not only traditional tulips, lilies or daffodils. They are not afraid to plant such truly exotic flowers as amaryllis or hippeastrum, which attract with luxurious, incredibly bright colors of large, amazingly shaped flowers. However, we need to clarify right away: almost all the beautiful flowers that we grow or buy under the name amaryllis are actually hippeastrum or hybrids of hippeastrum and amaryllis.
These flowers, unlike most bulbs, bloom in August-September, but growers are attracted by the possibility of forcing and blooming of these flowers at other times of the year.
The only representative of the genus Amaryllis is amaryllis belladonna (Amaryllis belladonna), an unusual flower native to South Africa, from the Cape of Good Hope, so growing it outdoors is possible only in areas with a mild climate. If amaryllis develops according to its natural pattern, then it should bloom in the fall, and for this you need to plant the bulbs in the ground in June. How to plant amaryllis.
For amaryllis planted in open ground, light, constant heat and the required level of humidity are very important conditions, therefore, a plot on the south side of buildings is suitable for them.
The amaryllis bulb has a pear-shaped or fusiform shape, it is quite large in size. Even two flower arrows can produce the largest bulbs. Each of them blooms from 6 to 12 flowers. Amaryllis tend to be red, pink, or white in color.
The average diameter of the amaryllis bulb is about 6 cm. However, there are breeding specimens, the size of which reaches 20 cm.
The amaryllis bulb is covered with dry gray scales. In the sinuses of the outer scales, from 1 to 4 children are formed annually. They are the planting material for the reproduction of amaryllis: during the transplantation of an adult plant, the children are separated along with the roots, then they are planted in a pot for growing. Such a baby bulb, as a rule, blooms for 3-4 years of growth.
If amaryllis is represented by only one species, then its relative hippeastrum, on the contrary, is very widely represented. All hybrid forms of both amaryllis and hippeastrum are usually referred to as hippeastrum.
Hippeastrum native to the subtropics and tropics of America, therefore, unlike amaryllis, it is more adapted to growing outdoors.
This flower is distinguished by a wide variety of colors, and the flowers themselves are much larger and brighter than amaryllis flowers. There are varieties of the original two-tone color.
Hippeastrum bulbs differ from amaryllis bulbs: they are rounder and slightly flattened. But it will be difficult for a layman to distinguish between them, so if it is important for you to buy either amaryllis or hippeastrum, contact specialized stores where sellers will help you, or special Internet sites.
Pay attention to the manufacturer's packaging: it should indicate which flower will grow from the bulb.
Don't worry if you got a not too large bulb, because some varieties of hippeastrum have small bulbs, so bulbs from 5cm to 11cm in diameter are considered normal.
Both amaryllis and hypeastrum bulbs have a long shelf life if you put them in a cool, dry, dark place.
After flowering, the pots of plants are kept in a warm, bright room.
At this time, the bulb accumulates nutrients, so it will not be superfluous, after the amaryllis to bloom, to feed the plant and water until the foliage dries up, through which the bulb received the substances necessary for laying a full-fledged flower bud.
For a dormant period the bulb can be left in a pot without replanting for 3-4 years in a row, but in order for the plant to fully rest, it must be transferred to a cool room.
Some call this beauty on the window "naked lady", others - amaryllis beauty, others, holding their breath, silently enjoy the outlandish spectacle and delicate aroma. But all unanimously consider this exotic miracle a treasure of the home collection of indoor flowers. Amaryllis Belladonna - the name sounds like music! The price for the happiness of admiring amaryllis in bloom is low: attention, care and adherence to simple, but mandatory content rules. To do this, you need to know when to transplant amaryllis, how to care for it after transplantation - during periods of flowering and dormancy. Amaryllis Belladonna is a perennial bulbous plant, native to the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa, belongs to the amaryllis family and until recently was considered the only species. Petals of all shades of pink, red, purple, snow-white are collected in luxurious inflorescences, crowning a tall, bare peduncle, for which the flower received such original folk names.
Experts, talking about how to transplant this amazing flower at home, recommend that florists first find out the answers to a few questions.
Any potted plant draws out all the juices from the soil, depleting the soil so that even fertilization cannot satisfy the needs of a green pet, therefore, a complete replacement of the nutrient substrate is periodically necessary.
The second reason for transplanting is the need for the developing root system to increase the volume of capacity. For bulbous plants, the ratio of the size of the bulb to the pot is fundamentally important.
Specialists did not come to a consensus on the frequency of transplants. There are recommendations on carrying out this mandatory procedure no more than once every 3-4 years, so as not to injure the roots and not damage the bulb. Those who advise replanting amaryllis annually insist on the need to regularly remove the babies and completely replace the soil to stimulate abundant flowering.
You can take as a basis the option of transplanting adult specimens every two years, and arranging for the young to transfer as the bulb grows. But in any case, it is advisable to replace the topsoil every year.
Whichever option the florist chooses, it is important to remember: Amaryllis transplantation is considered one of the most important stages of caring for this plant, since it is a powerful stimulation of development and flowering.
The ideal time for transplanting (as well as for transshipment) is spring, a month after the end of flowering, completely depleting the bulb, which gives the flowers its resources.
Water the plant well a few days before the procedure. Carefully remove the onion from the pot, and, having freed from the remnants of the earth, children and dead dark tissues, carefully examine.
A strong, dense bulb without obvious signs of disease, mechanical surface damage, with well-developed roots - an ideal planting material. For prophylaxis, before planting, such a bulb can be soaked for half an hour in a solution of potassium permanganate, and then dried for at least a day, while keeping the roots moist.
When amaryllis reproduce by children, tiny bulbs are not transplanted for several years, transshipment is enough for them. Transshipment is a method of replanting plants with partial replacement of soil. An onion with a whole lump of earth is placed in a slightly larger pot and fresh soil is added. This option is safe for the bulb as it eliminates the possibility of injury. Amaryllis can be planted in small groups, maintaining a distance of at least 10 cm between individual specimens. Thus, the greatest decorative effect is achieved.
When choosing a pot for amaryllis, two main criteria must be taken into account: The pot must be heavy: a luxurious inflorescence on a high peduncle or leaves spread out to the sides can shift the center of gravity and overturn a light container. The best option- ceramic pot without enamel and glaze. Such dishes, unlike plastic ones, will provide not only reliable stability, but also additional aeration of the soil.
The pot should be tight: between the wall of the container and the bulb, the distance should not exceed 2 cm. The desire to give the pet the best, including more space, turns into the fact that the expectation of the peak of the growing season - violent flowering - is delayed. There is a growing misunderstanding and disappointment of a novice grower who does not know that a spacious pot contributes to the rapid growth of children and excludes flowering.
To understand why babies and flowering are mutually exclusive things in the life of this plant, one must remember that the purpose of all living things is reproduction. Propagating by both seeds and children, the plant will prefer the second option, having enough space in the ground. This route depletes the bulb far less than producing seeds from flowering.
“So, you need to choose a pot that is weighty, narrow in diameter, but deep so that the roots can develop freely.”
To grow amaryllis, a light, breathable soil is required. Vermiculite and river sand should be added to the purchased planting substrate for bulbous plants for additional lightness and breathability. To independently prepare the soil at home, you must use the following components in equal parts:
The pot is selected, the soil is prepared, the bulb is examined and found to be suitable - it remains to figure out how to plant amaryllis correctly. At least 3 cm of expanded clay or small river pebbles are poured onto the bottom of the pot, then a small layer of nutritious planting soil, followed by a long-acting fertilizer (stick, tablet), sprinkled with a substrate. Having straightened the roots, the soil is poured and compacted. It is useful to pour a centimeter layer of sand under the onion itself.
The whole secret of planting lies only in the fact that at least a third of its volume should remain above the level of the soil compacted around the bulb. Sometimes even half of the bulb is left on the surface. After transplanting, amaryllis requires watering and placement on a light and warm windowsill.
An amaryllis transplant is usually straightforward. The only problem can be identifying the disease of the bulb after removing it from the old pot. Sluggish, loose, she is not able to grow and give joy. Such material can no longer be planting.
A bulb that is suitable for planting but damaged requires special preparation. Damage sites are cleaned so that no affected tissue remains, and treated with crushed coal. If there are no visual signs of damage, but an unpleasant sweet odor is felt, one can assume the onset of the disease and treat the plant with fungicides.
After one and a half to two months, the newly planted plant will release one or two peduncles, which, growing up, will tend to the light from the window. To keep the plant upright, the pot must be rotated periodically.
When the buds bloom, you can cut the peduncle and put it in a vase of water: this way the strength of the bulb is preserved for the appearance of a new bouquet, and the cut does not affect the duration of flowering. But florists recommend breaking off the third peduncle immediately in order to save the bulb from complete exhaustion. The leaves, dying, give all the nutrients to the bulb, preparing for the dormant period. In order not to disrupt this important process, you must not cut off or pick off greens that have not yet faded.
For the period of sleep, the pot is placed in a dry place with a temperature within + 10 ° C for three months. If the bulb is awakened earlier, the plant will not be able to live through a new full cycle. Quality sleep prolongs the life of all flowers, which nature has prescribed for the holiday season.
A plant planted in a new nutrient soil begins to develop actively, absorbing micro- and macroelements that charge the planting substrate. This charge is enough for 2-3 months, after which it is necessary to introduce nutrients from the outside. Do not wait for the alarm signals that the starving flower gives.
There are many homemade nutritional supplement recipes that have been proven by experienced growers. Some may also be useful for amaryllis: Rich in potassium, magnesium, phosphorus, iron, zinc, calcium, ash is an excellent means for plant nutrition and protection. The easiest way is to sprinkle ash on the soil. With each watering, nutrients will be absorbed into the soil, enriching it. To obtain liquid top dressing, one tablespoon of ash is poured with a liter of settled water; Onion broth is a storehouse of trace elements. Approximately 50 grams of husk, filled with two liters hot water, boil for 10 minutes and insist for 3 hours. The cooled and strained infusion is watered and sprayed on all plants without exception. This product is not stored for a long time - it must be used up immediately; Washed and dried banana peels, ground in a coffee grinder, and drenched in boiling water is an excellent dish for a home garden. The subtleties of the recipe: half a liter of dried peel per liter of boiling water, insist for a day, strain, discard the peel, and top up the jar with clean water. The same recipe applies to citrus zest.
"Amaryllis requires regular feeding at least once every 10-14 days throughout flowering and bedtime."
When buying ready-made fertilizer for amaryllis, you need to remember that an excess of nitrogen is fraught with damage to the bulb with a red burn, inhibits flowering. For example, the "Izumrud" complex in the first place in the composition places precisely nitrogen. This is very useful for healthy greenery, for leaves, the remedy is not suitable for amaryllis, for which fertilizers are chosen that saturate the soil with phosphorus and potassium.
Ready-made fertilizers for bulbous plants:
Any manufacturer that produces fertilizers will definitely find a place for this category of plants in its product line, so it will not be difficult for a grower to choose the right product.
On windows with a southeast or southwest orientation, the light-loving amaryllis feels very comfortable. If the possibility of placement is limited only by southern window sills, then the pot is shaded, protecting the bulb from overheating. Exposure to direct sunlight can negatively affect the brightness of the flower.
During the period of active growth and flowering, amaryllis prefers temperature ranges from + 18 ° С to + 25 ° С. Store dormant bulbs dry at + 10 ° C. Sharp temperature jumps have a detrimental effect on the condition of the plant. At temperatures of 0 ° C and below, the bulbs freeze and die.
Humidity for amaryllis is not as important as temperature and light, and too moisture-rich air can provoke fungal diseases. But for preventive purposes, the leaves are wiped with a damp cloth if the air is too dry.
After landing in new soil the flower immediately begins to grow: young roots are strengthened, a flower arrow breaks through. Until the peduncle reaches a height of 10 cm, watering is required accurate, moderate, so as not to destroy the plant that has not yet completely mastered in the renewed conditions. And after this milestone, watering becomes abundant, but without the possibility of stagnant water. It is better to water such flowers in a tray so that the bulb does not get wet. With the onset of a dormant period, watering is stopped.
Gray rot - brown spots on the leaves - occurs due to waterlogging. Urgent transplantation into new soil and capacity, compliance with the irrigation regime.
Stagonosporosis - a lesion of leaves, stems and bulbs - manifests itself as reddish spots or stripes. Reasons - a sharp drop in temperature when high humidity soil. To save, you need to stabilize the temperature in the room, adjust the irrigation mode. In a neglected state, it is not treated and leads to the death of the flower. Anthractose - affects the leaves, covering them with dark spots in brown streaks. The reason is the same - excessive watering. Remove affected leaves, reduce watering. In all cases, for the treatment used "Fundazol" or Bordeaux mixture. Paleness, darkening, decay of leaves, drooping flowers - all these are signs of too frequent and abundant watering. At the first changes in the appearance of the plant, it is necessary to reduce watering in order to prevent the development of infection.
The danger of an attack on a plant by insect pests is that they move from flower to flower, destroying them one by one. Therefore, it is important to periodically inspect all plants, isolating diseased specimens for treatment, and treat the rest for prevention. Amaryllis is attacked by the following pests: Scabbards. They are found in the form of brown plaques on the back of the leaf. They are removed mechanically with a damp cloth. After that, you should wipe with soapy water not only the affected areas, but completely all the leaves;
Thrips. Small insects visible to the naked eye. Mechanical removal followed by insecticide treatment.
For pest control, proven insecticidal agents are used: "Aktara", "Iskra", "Fitoverm" and others. As an additional means of treatment and prevention, garlic infusion, ammonia water for spraying plants is used. For efficiency, it is imperative to repeat the full treatment 2-3 times after 4-5 days.
It is important to remember: amaryllis are poisonous, contain the alkaloid lycorin, which causes poisoning if ingested, therefore, it is recommended to be careful when caring for a flower, and then wash your hands thoroughly.
It may seem that amaryllis requires too much attention, work, but it will pay off in full when it begins to bloom. Once he sees the flowering of amaryllis, he will want to experience it again, and work and worries will become a joy.
To plant a new plant, you need to choose the most beautiful and smooth surfaces that have reasonably good roots. It is necessary to ensure that the bulb does not have cracks, dents, scratches, places of rotting and mildew, stains. If the bulb has an unpleasant sweet odor, it is also not worth picking.
The most successful amaryllis. After 2-3 years after planting, the bulb will bloom. The daughter bulbs are planted in the same way as the new store bulbs, but choose a slightly larger pot. This is due to the rapid growth of children.
Experienced flower growers know the tricks due to which their amaryllis twice a year - in early autumn and early spring. For this, a period of rest is strictly organized for the rest of the bulb and the accumulation of necessary nutrients. In January, they take out pots with amaryllis from the resting place, put them on a bright and warm place, and water them. Monitor soil moisture. All this stimulates a phase of rapid growth.
This does not mean that classic amaryllis is not in demand on the market. Standard varieties such as Durban (carmine flowers with a white vein in the middle), Gorgeous Pink (pink-white petals), Parker (yellow center and purple-pink edges), Maxima (bright pink flowers with a strong aroma), Hathor (yellow center and white petals) are equally popular.
Amaryllis is a popular houseplant that is found in the flower collections of many growers. It is in demand due to its beautiful flowers and easy care. To make amaryllis feel comfortable in an apartment, you don't need to try too much. This task will be strong enough for beginners. If you want to have a plant with beautiful flowers at home, but do not want to do it too much, choose amaryllis, as it is best suited for this purpose.
In amaryllis, growing conditions differ depending on the phase of the growing season. So, at a certain time the plant grows actively, and at another time it has a dormant time. Florists need to be aware of the amaryllis' inability to survive in very cold conditions, when the temperature hovers around freezing. The opposite situation, when the air is very hot and humid, as in the tropics, will also be detrimental to the plant.
Ideal conditions for the growth of amaryllis in different phases of development.
The plant is very fond of moisture, therefore it is recommended to water it with regularly settled water at room temperature, it is possible through a sump, the excess water from which is drained after 6-8 hours. Make sure that the earthen lump is moist, but it is not necessary to bring the amount of moisture to excess. During flowering, even more water is needed. If it stagnates, then root rot, leaves wilting, and loss of flowers will begin. You can also spray the leaves - this will not damage the flowers. Moreover, it is recommended to moisturize the buds before flowering. Optimum humidity should be 60-80%.
During the dormant period, watering the plant at this time is prohibited. The soil is only periodically sprayed. Watering is resumed only when a new peduncle appears and grows up to 10 cm. In the place where the pot will stand during the dormant period, the humidity should be 60-70%.
Amaryllis needs to provide regular ventilation of the room, but without drafts.
Planting amaryllis at home photo
Before planting amaryllis, choose the most successful pot. It should be a heavy and stable vessel. The flower will try to grow a powerful and tall peduncle, as well as a large number of leaves, which means that it can overturn itself. In addition, when leaving, a light pot is more likely to hurt than a massive one.
The size of the vessel is chosen based on the parameters of the bulb. Ideally, it should be the main object in the pot. This means that it should be up to 3-5 cm from it to all the walls. As for the depth of the pot, it should be maximum, since the plant develops a large root system. You can choose a vessel that is wide at the bottom and tapers gradually upward.
It is very fashionable to plant several bulbs in one pot so that their simultaneous flowering is even more spectacular. In this case, the distance between them should be at least 2-3 cm.
Next, go to the choice of soil. The easiest option is to go to a specialized store and buy ready-made soil for bulbs there. But any experienced florist will give up this idea and go to prepare the substrate himself. Do not forget to sterilize the soil: for this, it is doused with strong boiling water or kept over hot steam for about half an hour. You can also freeze it in the freezer.
The composition of the substrate, which you can prepare yourself, often looks like one of the following options:
At the bottom, it is necessary to fill up drainage with a thickness of 2-3 cm. For this, you can take pebbles, gravel, expanded clay, available brick chips, small fragments of ceramics. Part of the drain is mixed with the substrate and spread over the surface of the pot. Also, a large hole is made in it to drain the water.
Drainage from above is covered with sand also 2-3 cm, in order to additionally be safe from root rot due to water accumulation.
Planting indoor amaryllis photo
To plant a new plant, you need to choose the most beautiful and strong bulbs with a smooth surface that have reasonably good roots. It is necessary to ensure that the bulb does not have cracks, dents, scratches, places of rotting and mildew, stains. If the bulb has an unpleasant sweet odor, it is also not worth picking.
How to transplant amaryllis at home
Amaryllis transplant is carried out after it has faded, waiting for the peduncle to completely wither.
There is no need to transplant the plant every year, and the operation is performed no more than once every three years. If the amaryllis is growing too quickly, you can transplant earlier.
To renew the soil mixture and give the plant more nutrients, replace the top 3-4 centimeters of soil in the pot with new ones every year.
Before a mature plant is planted in another pot, it needs to be fed. Several sticks of Agricola or other mineral fertilizer are applied under the roots.
Breeders and flower growers use all three possible methods of reproduction of amaryllis - by dividing the bulb, children and seeds.
Amaryllis seeds photo How to get amaryllis seeds
This is the longest and least successful breeding method. If seeds are harvested from hybrid plants, varietal characteristics are not preserved, and flowering appears only after 8 years. The only advantage is the slow aging of the bulbs.
Amaryllis seeds at home
To obtain seeds, you need two amaryllis. With a brush, pollen is taken from one and applied to the pistil of the other. As a result, a box is formed, in which the seeds will ripen later. Ripening takes at least a month.
Amaryllis from seed seedlings photo
How to cut amaryllis bulbs photo
This is the most risky method, as you can be left with nothing.
Many growers successfully use the division of the bulb to propagate amaryllis, it is important to just do everything right and not be afraid to take risks.
The most successful way to reproduce amaryllis. After 2-3 years after planting, the bulb will bloom. The daughter bulbs are planted in the same way as the new store bulbs, but choose a slightly larger pot. This is due to the rapid growth of children.
Amaryllis is an exotic plant, but it is quite real in everyone's house. If you follow the rules for its care, you can often enjoy its flowers.
Amaryllis planting and care at home photo
During growth, amaryllis is watered carefully. This is done when the peduncle has a height of at least 10 cm. This flower likes to receive a lot of water, but not in a stagnant state. Sometimes it is better to give up watering than to flood the plant. It is best to add water to the pot every four days, making sure that no water gets onto the bulb during watering. It should fall especially on the soil around.
In winter, the plant should not receive so much water. It is enough to spray no more than once a week.
It is also possible to use natural organic fertilizers - fresh manure is diluted from a ratio of 1.5 cups in 10 liters of water, and bird droppings - a third of a glass per 10 liters.
When the leaves die off completely, feeding stops. It is not carried out even in the resting phase.
Wild amaryllis enters the flowering phase in early autumn. In indoor floriculture, there are tricks on how to change this term. The easiest one is to plant the bulbs at a different time. So, when choosing healthy specimens, they begin to grow immediately after planting, giving mature flower stalks as early as 7-8 weeks. Here you need to observe - if there are more than two peduncles, they are removed so as not to abundantly load the bulb with flowering.
When the first flower appeared and blossomed, some cut the peduncle and put it in a vase. Provided that the water is renewed every day, it can stay there for up to three weeks. You can not cut the peduncle, but it will stand the same, and will drain the bulb much more. To maximize flowering time, place the vase or flowerpot in a colder, darker place.
Why Amaryllis Doesn't Blossom How to Make Amaryllis Blossom
You must understand what is the reason for the listed ones you have. It needs to be eliminated and the result is expected.
Another care option (but risky) is to scoop up the bulbs, peel them, and store them in cardboard boxes for storage. But you can disrupt some process and cause the roots to dry out.
Experienced flower growers know the tricks that make their amaryllis bloom twice a year - in early autumn and early spring. For this, a period of rest is strictly organized for the rest of the bulb and the accumulation of necessary nutrients. In January, they take out pots with amaryllis from the resting place, put them on a bright and warm place, and water them. Monitor soil moisture. All this stimulates a phase of rapid growth.
red burn of amaryllis photo
Rot on the amaryllis photo
The defeat of the amaryllis with an onion tick photo
The defeat of amaryllis with thrips photo
Mealybug on amaryllis photo
Scabbard on amaryllis photo
Aphids on amaryllis photo
Legs on the amaryllis photo
The stores sell modern hybrid varieties of amaryllis, which are selectively bred. The real Amaryllis belladonna is extremely rare and appreciated by avid growers.
At the moment, breeders are achieving the following tasks:
This does not mean that classic varieties of amaryllis are not in demand on the market. Standard varieties such as Durban (carmine flowers with a white vein in the middle), Gorgeous Pink (pink-white petals), Parker (yellow center and purple-pink edges), Maxima (bright pink flowers with a strong aroma), Hathor (yellow center and white petals) are equally popular.
Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences photo In the photo amaryllis
Amaryllis and hippeastrum from the Amaryllis family. Only in the first genus there are significantly more plants. Only in the wild, at least 90 species grow, and with breeding varieties, the hippeastrum family numbers up to 2000 varieties. They have a lot in common with amaryllis, so even experienced sellers can confuse these plants.
Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences In the photo hippeastrum
In order not to repeat itself, below each first point refers to amaryllis, the second to hippeastrum.
Planting and flowering amaryllis Amaryllis reproduction and care at home
Amaryllis (Latin Amaryllis) is the most common genus of the Amaryllis family (Latin Amaryllidaceae). Initially, botanists attributed one type of plant to it - Amaryllis belladonna (or Amaryllis belladonna). Over time, approaches to taxonomy changed, and two more species of amaryllis were included here - Amaryllis sarniensis and Amaryllis paradisicola.
Amaryllis belladonna comes from southern Africa. Researchers say the plant spread from the Oliphants River valley in the Cape province of South Africa. As for other species, here the geography is wider - South Africa, Japan, Australia, some islands of the English Channel - they can be considered the birthplace of plants.
The genus amaryllis was first described by the famous Swedish scientist Karl Linnaeus in 1753, who was engaged in taxonomy. The merit of the name of this flower belongs to him. Before his work, it was believed that amaryllis is only one of the subspecies of lilies. He was called lilionarcissus. Linnaeus realized that this is a separate plant, but introduced a significant error in taxonomy, including a number of hippeastrum varieties in the amaryllis genus. To this day, many people confuse these plants.
The name of the plant is first encountered in the work of Virgil. In his poems, you can find the heroine - the shepherdess Amaryllis or Amaryllis. This name in Greek means "sparkling".
Amaryllis flowers care Amaryllis flower photo
Amaryllis is a bulbous perennial flower with dark green smooth leaves. The greens of the plant are so narrow and long that they look like a belt. The leaves are arranged in two rows.
The commemoration of the beginning of flowering of amaryllis is the growth of a long hollow tube of 40-60 cm - this is a peduncle. The plant produces up to three peduncles. Leaves follow. In the wild, this occurs in late summer - early autumn. Each peduncle bears 2-12 flowers, depending on the variety. By the type of inflorescence - an umbrella.
Wild amaryllis can have flowers with white, pink and red petals in various shades. Breeders have artificially bred many hybrid varieties of yellow, purple, orange, green. A single amaryllis flower looks like a lily and is a gramophone, measuring 10-12 centimeters in diameter.
Amaryllis belladonna Amaryllis Belladonna planting and care at home photo
Despite the seeming beauty of the plant, amaryllis has poisonous parts. The alkaloid lycorin was found in the bulb. If it gets on your skin, it will irritate. All planting operations with the plant must be carried out exclusively with rubber gloves, and then wash your hands with soap and water. Keep the flower away from pets and children.
Amaryllis, the care of which is quite simple, if you follow simple rules, is a bulbous plant from the family of the same name. A native of South Africa was introduced to Europe in the 18th century, where it quickly took one of the leading positions among flowering ornamental crops.
The genus is represented by the only species that is known under two names - Amaryllis Belladonna or Amaryllis the Beautiful. A perennial plant with a bulbous root system has xiphoid basal leaves in two rows, framing a fleshy peduncle up to 60 cm tall. When flowering, an umbellate inflorescence is formed at the end of the arrow, consisting of flowers with a diameter of 5-8 cm with a variety of colors, depending on the variety.
The successful cultivation of amaryllis requires compliance with the basic care measures.
Amaryllis needs a stream of soft light, which can be provided to the flower when the pot is placed on the windowsills of the southeast and southwest directions with additional protection from direct sunlight during the period of greatest solar activity. Curtains can be used as protection.
Important! During the summer season, daylight hours should be at least 16 hours.
Carefully! When growing a culture, one should not allow strong temperature changes that negatively affect the plant.
To obtain a flowering plant, you must select a small container. The soil for filling the pot is required with a slightly acidic reaction in the range of 6.0-6.5 points and a loose structure. The nutrient substrate, prepared from sod and leafy soil, sand and humus in a ratio of 2: 2: 2: 1, is calcined in an oven before use to destroy pathogens.
When watering a flower, which should be carried out after the earthen coma has dried, the lower method of moistening is used: the pot is placed in a pan with water for 20-30 minutes, which prevents unwanted water ingress on the bulb, which occurs with the upper method of irrigation. Amaryllis easily adapts to dry air in the apartment, so it does not need additional spraying.
Advice! To make it easier for the flower to breathe through the leaf plates, you should systematically wipe them from dust.
Attention! An excess of nitrogen in the soil can cause a red burn of the flower.
With the arrival of autumn, the flowering of the culture is noted, which, in contrast to the hippeastrum, occurs after the development of the green mass. In the natural environment, this period, in which flowers of white and pink flowers bloom, falls in the fall. In culture, many varieties have been bred with a variety of colors. After flowering, the shoots die off naturally and no pruning is required.
The amaryllis flower is transplanted every 3-4 years after the end of flowering.
After the end of the flowering phase, the plant begins to prepare for a dormant period, which on average lasts 2 months: watering and feeding are reduced. The shedding of foliage signals the beginning of active growth of the bulb. At this time, the pot is moved to a dark room, where the temperature should not exceed 16 ° C. Moistening is carried out as needed, when the earthy clod dries up.
The flower is affected by diseases in the form of rot in case of violation of the maintenance regulations - excessive watering, high concentration of nitrogen-containing fertilizers in the substrate. With the intensive development of the disease, the plant may die. To prevent this, it is necessary to strictly comply with agrotechnical requirements. Among the pests noted on amaryllis, spider mites, mealybugs and scale insects stand out, which should be dealt with by spraying the plant with insecticidal preparations according to the instructions on the package.
Amaryllis is bred in two ways: generative and vegetative.
Due to the laboriousness of the method and the impossibility of maintaining varietal qualities, seed reproduction at home is extremely rare.
Attention! New plants obtained in this way will delight the first flowering only after a seven-year growth period.
Despite the unpretentiousness of the culture, non-observance of the basic agrotechnical requirements can lead to the loss of decorativeness by the flower or the complete absence of inflorescences.
Important! If less than three years have passed since planting the bulb, the absence of a flowering phase is a normal physiological process.
Often, hippeastrum from the tropical regions of South America, whose genus numbers more than 85 species, are mistaken for Amaryllis, represented by only one species.
So, the amaryllis flower represents a malfunction of a beautifully flowering plant that requires minimal but proper care. Fulfillment of all the requirements for maintaining the culture at home will allow the grower to get a healthy plant with beautiful large inflorescences of wondrous beauty.
Every 2-3 years During active growth 18-22, during rest - about 15 During flowering - when the topsoil dries up, do not water during the rest period Only buds if the air is too dry Bright diffused light, southwest and southeast windows Poisonous sap, adherence to periods of growth and rest
During growth, the plant prefers bright diffused light; in summer, direct rays of the sun are permissible only between 11:00 and 15:00.
For normal development, amaryllis requires 16 hours of daylight... Amaryllis bulbs do not need light during the dormant period.
The best place for the plant will be windows facing southwest and southeast. On the south window, the amaryllis will have to be shaded from the midday sun.
During the growth of the peduncle and leaves, the plant must be constantly turned so that the peduncle does not bend.
Temperature regime during active growth:
Amaryllis bulbs should be kept in a cool place during the dormant period.... The optimum temperature will be about 15 ° C, the minimum is 10 ° C, and the maximum is 18 ° C. At a low temperature, the bulb may die, and at a high temperature, it will germinate too quickly, not allowing the plant to fully rest.
In the summer, it is not advisable to take the flower out of the room, since the differences in day and night temperatures in the middle lane are significant. This plant does not like a sharp decrease or increase in temperature, which can lead to a lack of flowering.
For this flower, a dormant period is necessary. But it is not always possible to keep a flower in a cold room. In order for amaryllis to successfully overwinter and release a peduncle in the spring, it can be kept at a room temperature of 20-22 ° C, but in relative dryness. In this case, the flower will not grow in winter.
During flowering, amaryllis needs abundant watering - the soil should be moist, but not waterlogged. Watering frequency - the topsoil should dry out slightly between waterings. Water the plant with settled water at room temperature... It is important that no water gets on the bulbs.
When flowering is over, watering is reduced, and after 2 months they completely stop.
During this time, amaryllis loses leaves, and a dormant period begins, during which the plant does not need to be watered.
After the end of the dormant period, when the peduncle reaches a height of 10 cm (but not earlier!), They switch to the usual watering regime, taking into account the temperature and dryness of the air in the room.
If the air in the room is too dry, it is allowed to spray the buds a little... It is strictly forbidden to spray flowers, leaves, as well as bulbs during the dormant period.
For amaryllis, a soil consisting of sod land (2 parts), peat (1 part), humus (1 part) and sand (1 part) is suitable. The acidity index of the soil should be pH 6.0–6.5.
You can also use a different soil composition for planting this plant. Here are the ingredients:
Sand can be replaced with leavening agents such as perlite or vermiculite. The specified composition of the soil will ensure the outflow of excess water into the sump when watering.
Also, in order to prevent stagnation of water in the soil, a drainage layer is laid on the bottom of the pot. Good drainage is essential to prevent root and bulb decay.
For amaryllis, light and loose soil, slightly acidic or with neutral acidity, is suitable. Such soil mixtures for decorative flowering bulbous plants are always on sale. The easiest way to get them is from flower shops or garden centers.
During active growth and flowering, feeding is carried out 1 time in 10 days. For this, a complex liquid fertilizer is used, suitable for flowering plants.
At the end of flowering, fertilizing is reduced, and after wilting of the leaves, they stop altogether.... Fertilization is resumed only with the appearance of flower stalks from the bulb.
Fertilizing the soil for amaryllis begins when flower stalks appear from the bulb in spring. Liquid complex fertilizers are used for flowering plants or special formulations for bulbous plants.
It is important not to overfeed the plants after leaf formation and flowering. This species grows leaves after the formation of a peduncle. The plant is fed only with fertilizer for flowering plants, never using formulations for deciduous varieties. This maximizes flowering and slows down leaf growth.
Amaryllis is undemanding to air humidity, so there is no need to spray it.
The main thing is that the humidity is not too high - 80% or more, otherwise it can lead to fungal diseases.
For hygiene and prevention of pest infestation, it is recommended to regularly wipe the leaves or wash them with a shower.
For normal development and abundant flowering of amaryllis, special care rules are required during growth and rest. Also, amaryllis is a poisonous plant and you only need to work with it with gloves.
Do not forget that amaryllis is a poisonous indoor plant. Do not allow the juice to come into contact with the skin or food. But do not rush to get rid of the plant - when growing it, it is enough just to follow the precautions.
Consider how to care for amaryllis at home in different phases. At home, amaryllis is grown as a common houseplant until late autumn. At this time, it is regularly watered and fed.
After flowering amaryllis, you need to remove the peduncles. The leaves do not need to be touched - they will be a source of nutrients for the bulb.
In order for amaryllis to bloom in winter, the bulbs need to provide a dormant period.... To do this, from August, you need to reduce watering and stop feeding. After three weeks, watering should also be stopped. At the same time, the leaves should turn yellow and wither on their own, after which they must be cut to a height of 5 cm from the bulb.
In September and early October, the bulbs are planted in a pot and harvested in a dark, dry and cool (13-15 ° C) place. The dormant period will begin when no green leaves remain on the plant and will last 6–8 weeks.
Around November, the pot with the plant is placed in a lighted place and watered regularly. From this point on, the growth period begins again.
Before and after flowering, keep the soil moist and rotate the plant constantly for even growth. During this period, the optimum temperature will be 13-18 ° C. After 4-8 weeks after resuming watering, the amaryllis should bloom.
Amaryllis bloom in late autumn or early winter. A flowering plant throws out a powerful peduncle, at the end of which an inflorescence is located. Usually, the plant has no leaves during flowering. Sometimes, together with the peduncle, 1 pair of leaves grows.
With optimal care, amaryllis blooms once a year. However, you can get flowers twice a year without harming the plant. For this, adult specimens are suitable, with a bulb diameter of at least 5 cm. They will bloom in the summer, provided that they are regularly fed in the spring.
To induce the natural flowering of amaryllis in the summer, you need to create an additional dormant period for it. To do this, you need to move it from a lighted place to a shaded one, away from the window.
Watering is reduced by 2-3 weeks. After 2 weeks in the shade, its leaves gradually die off, and a peduncle grows from the top of the bulb.
After the formation of the peduncle, the plant is watered as usual. Now it can be transferred to the windowsill, where it will soon bloom.
Amaryllis can be attacked by fungal infections such as gray mold. Signs of infestation: brown spots or stripes on flowers, stems or bulbs, or grayish velvety bloom on leaves.
As a rule, too humid air and waterlogging of the soil lead to the disease.
The causative agents of this disease live in the soil, so a diseased plant must be transplanted. In addition, they are treated with special preparations - fungicides.
The plant can be infested with thrips or aphids... Signs: Leaves turn yellow and deformed.
Small reddish specks may appear when infested with mites. In the fight against pests, insecticide treatment, which must be carried out several times, will help.
Amaryllis can be propagated by babies separated from the mother's bulb and by seeds. Before transplanting amaryllis, you need to choose the appropriate method.
This is the simplest and most common way. Regrown babies are separated from the mother plant during the spring transplant..
First, they are grown in small containers with a sand-perlite mixture or sphagnum, and then transplanted.
In this case, the composition of the soil, the height of the planting of the bulb, the capacity of the pot should be the same as when transplanting an adult plant. Young bulbs grow rapidly and bloom for 2-3 years.
Growing amaryllis at home is a rather long, laborious and unreliable way. To obtain seeds, pollen is transferred from one plant to another with a brush. Amaryllis seeds ripen for about a month, after which they are planted in the soil and watered abundantly.
Seedlings should appear in a month. Grown young plants are planted one by one in separate small pots. Amaryllis grown from seed only bloom for 7 years.
Amaryllis is a perennial plant, so there is no need to transplant it annually. It will be enough just to replace the top layer of the soil. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the root system. In addition, the bulb must not be filled up above the previous soil level.
Usually amaryllis is transplanted every 2-4 years., or when you need to separate the babies from the mother's bulb for reproduction.
The best time to transplant amaryllis at home is 3-5 weeks after flowering ends.
This is due to the fact that the bulb greatly decreases in size during flowering due to the consumption of nutrients contained in it.
When transplanting, the pot is selected with a diameter equal to the onion plus 1.5-2.0 cm on all sides- in tight containers, amaryllis begin to bloom faster and more abundantly.
Dry and withered outer scales are removed from the faded amaryllis, and bad roots are removed from the bulb and children with roots are separated.
If the bulb has no roots at all, it can still be replanted.- roots will grow back in 4-6 weeks. A drainage layer is laid on the bottom - expanded clay, broken shards, gravel, and it is advisable to pour a little sand under the bulb. The soil is taken of the same composition (see above). The bulb is buried in the ground by half or 2/3 of its height.
Amaryllis is a bulbous flowering plant native to South Africa. It has a large pear-shaped bulb, the diameter of which can reach 10 cm.
The leaves of the plant are narrow and long, reaching 30 cm in length. Amaryllis blooms in late autumn or early winter. The flowers are large, there are up to 12 of them on one peduncle. The peduncle of the plant is long, up to 40 cm, juicy and fleshy.
More recently, the Amaryllis Belladonna species was considered unique in its genus. Today, another species of this genus has been found - Amaryllis Paradisicol.
Amaryllis Belladonna- a very popular plant in indoor floriculture. Due to its compact size and flowers of amazing beauty, this species is widespread in the collections of lovers of flowering plants almost everywhere. Wild flowers have pink, red and even purple hues.
This species gave rise to many varieties, distinguished by unusual color, size of flowers and shape of petals. There are large-flowered, variegated varieties and varieties with narrow petals. Here are some popular amaryllis varieties:
Amaryllis Paradisicola differs from the previous species in a large number of flowers in the inflorescence. There can be up to 21 of them. All flowers of the species have a uniform pink tint and a pleasant aroma. Not common in indoor floriculture.
Now you know everything about caring for amaryllis at home.
When and should you cut the leaves and roots of the bulb? What are the storage conditions and when will it be ready to bloom again? Who knows?
After flowering, remove only the stalks. Be sure to leave the leaves, feed them a couple of times, because the bulb has expended a lot of energy on flowering. Then start cutting back on watering so the leaves die off. But not everyone has a dormant period. My amaryllis, bought last winter, bloomed great last year, giving out three arrows, all summer trying to put him to sleep, did not want to. Has given birth to three children and now again stands in two arrows with flowers.
Pay attention to the bulb, if it becomes depleted after flowering, becomes loose, try to still make it rest. Also, do not plant the bulb in a large pot, in which case it will definitely not bloom. Good luck.
You do not need to cut the roots. And the leaves should ideally dry out on their own. While they are green, nutrients enter the bulb from them. Stop watering and place in a cool place. No need to dig out of the pot
Dormant period: The stem is cut only when it is completely dry. Gradually reduce watering, then stop watering altogether. The pot with the onion is placed in a dark, cool place indoors. The rest period should be 6-8 weeks between February. Then the bulb can be taken out of the pot, the “babies” are separated and the mother plant is transplanted.
after blooming, you must first of all build up a good botka, like at least 4 pairs of leaves, before sending it to rest, otherwise you will not see a trace of flowering, the roots are not cut off healthy, but on the contrary they are taken care of when transplanting
It is unlikely that you have amaryllis. Most likely, this is a hybrid hippeastrum. After flowering, it has a growth period. You need to transplant the plant into a larger pot, water and feed regularly. For the summer, it is better to plant in open ground. The dormant period begins in September-October.
If you forcibly send the bulb to rest, then you can forget about flowering for several years.
water less often leaves will begin to die off by spring increase watering and feed
you do not need to cut the leaves ... now the bulb needs additional feeding - the energy spent on flowering ... let the leaves grow, and put to bed in the fall ...
Hello everyone! Amaryllis flower care at home with photos and videos in this material. Amaryllis - with which every experienced florist is familiar. The popularity is due to the very beautiful flowers. In addition, the plant is unpretentious, despite its origin.
What you will learn from this material:
There is nothing difficult in caring for amaryllis at home. Even beginners can handle this. Therefore, if you want to regularly admire a flowering plant without spending a lot of time and effort on care, amaryllis is the most suitable option.
Amaryllis is one of the genera in the Amaryllidaceae family. For a long time it was believed that the genus has only one representative - Amaryllis belladonna (Amaryllis belladonna). But at present, botanists identify several more representatives, such as Amaryllis paradisicola and Amaryllis sarniensis and.
The birthplace of Amaryllis belladonna is the African south, more precisely the valley of the Oliphants River in the Cape province of South Africa. The geography of distribution of new species is very extensive - South Africa, Australia, Japan and even the island of Jersey in the English Channel.
The genus was first identified by the Swedish taxonomist Karl Linnaeus in 1753. He also gave the flower a name. Up to this point, it was believed that amaryllis is a type of lily. It was known as the lilionarcissus. But Linnaeus made a mistake, referring to amaryllis and all kinds of hippeastrum. The confusion continues to this day.
The flower owes its name to the work of Virgil. In his poems, there is a beautiful shepherdess named Amaryllis or Amaryllis. Translated from Greek, this name means "sparkling".
Amaryllis is often referred to as the March or Jersey lily.
Amaryllis is a perennial bulbous plant. The leaves are dark green, smooth, long and narrow, somewhat reminiscent of a belt. Placed in two rows.
Before flowering, the plant throws out a special peduncle - a hollow "tube" 40-60 cm high (maximum 2-3 pieces). Only then do the leaves appear. In nature, this happens in late summer or early autumn. There are from 2 to 12 flowers, depending on the variety, on each peduncle. All inflorescences are like an umbrella.
Wild amaryllis are characterized by all shades of pink and reddish, as well as white. Purple, orange, yellow, greenish flowers and combined variants have been bred by breeding. By outward appearance the amaryllis flower is a cross between a lily and a gramophone bell 10–12 cm in diameter.
The amaryllis bulb is poisonous - it contains the alkaloid lycorin. On sensitive skin, irritation may appear even from a simple touch of the bulb. Therefore, be sure to wear rubber gloves before planting and transplanting, and wash your hands thoroughly at the end of the procedure. Also, take care to keep the flower out of the reach of children and pets.
The modern amaryllis varieties, which are freely available in stores, are the result of selection. The Amaryllis belladonna bulb is a real rarity, the dream of all experienced flower growers.
The efforts of breeders are aimed at the following:
But classic amaryllis varieties are no less popular than fashionable novelties. Durban (carmine flowers with a white center), Parker (purple-pink with a yellow center), Gorgeous Pink (pink-white petals), Hathor (snow-white with a yellowish center), Maxima (hot pink, with a great aroma) can be distinguished.
Durban is an extremely common cultivar
Maxima has an amazing aroma
Parker has an unusually beautiful pink color
Almost snow-white Hathor flowers will fit into any interior
Hippeastrum, like amaryllis, is a member of the Amaryllis family. But the genus of hippeastrum is much more numerous - only in nature there are about 90 species. And if you add breeding varieties, you get about two thousand. Often, even the sellers of specialty stores are confused in these plants.
Amaryllis
Hippeastrum
Flowering period
End of August and beginning of September.
End of February and beginning of March.
Homeland
Africa.
South America.
Scent
Strongly expressed.
Practically absent.
Flower diameter
10-12 cm.
6-8 cm.
Number of colors
Up to 12 pieces. In most cases, 4–6.
Maximum 6 flowers. Most often 2-4.
Coloring of natural varieties
Shades of pink - from almost white to almost red.
Red, orange, pink, white, yellow, greenish, purple and various combinations thereof.
Leaves in the process of flowering
None. Appear after the peduncle.
Remain in place.
Peduncle
Quite dense and without voids. It casts a little crimson.
Hollow tube. Cracks easily when pressed. The green color is mixed with a grayish-brown tint.
Peduncle length
40-60 cm.
60–70 cm.
Bulb shape
Pear-shaped.
Round or slightly elongated at the bottom, slightly flattened at the sides.
Scales
Ash gray, with a slight "fringe" along the upper edge.
They are very similar to common onions, only white or greenish in color.
Suitable conditions for growing amaryllis at home differ markedly depending on whether the plant is in a phase of active growth or a dormant period.
It should be noted right away that amaryllis will not tolerate even temperatures close to zero, and even more subzero temperatures. The conditions imitating the tropics and subtropics are also not suitable for him - constant humid heat.
Conditions
Growth phase
Dormant period
Pot location
Southwest or southeast facing window. A southern window will do, but you will have to cover the plant from direct sunlight during the day so that the leaves do not turn pale and fade.
A dark and cool place with a constant temperature and good ventilation.
Lighting
Ideally, bright but diffused light is needed for 14-16 hours a day. The leaves, and especially the peduncle arrow, tend to reach for the sun, so periodically they will have to be returned to an upright position by turning the pot. Or you can make supports for the plant.
Not required.
Humidity
The plant is hygrophilous. For watering, use room temperature that has settled for 6-8 hours. The earth should not dry out, but you should not overfill the flower either. He needs more water only during the flowering period. Stagnant moisture leads to the fact that the leaves wither and lose color, the roots rot. Spraying the leaves on the flower has practically no effect. But before flowering, you can slightly moisten the buds. Maintain air humidity at 60–80%.
Watering is completely excluded. Only soil spraying is carried out. Watering starts again only when the new peduncle grows to 10–12 cm. The optimum humidity in the storage area is 60–70%, without sudden changes.
Ventilation
The area should be well ventilated, but avoid strong drafts.
Temperature
Approximately 22-24 ° C during the day and about 18 ° C at night. The plant really does not like sudden changes in temperature.
Constant temperature 10–12 ° C.
Amaryllis requires a small but stable pot
Planting amaryllis begins with the choice of a pot - it must be quite massive and stable. The flower is rather unstable due to the wide-spread rosette of leaves and high peduncle. It is easy to overturn it with one careless movement, and sometimes a sharp gust of wind is enough.
The diameter of the pot depends on the size of the bulb. She should occupy almost everything inner space... Between the walls and the bulb is no more than 3-5 cm. However, the deeper the pot, the better, because amaryllis has a fairly well-developed root system. The best option is a pot wide at the bottom and tapering upward.
As for the material the pot is made of, the best choice is unglazed ceramics. This container provides ventilation and oxygen supply to the roots.
If you are planting several amaryllis in one large container, the distance between the bulbs is at least 10 cm.
The next important issue is soil. You can buy any soil intended for bulbous plants in a specialized store, but experienced flower growers prefer to prepare the mixture on their own. Any soil is pre-sterilized by pouring boiling water over it or placing it in a freezer.
Self-cooked may look like this:
A drainage layer at least 2-3 cm thick is required. Use expanded clay, pebbles, gravel, brick chips or small ceramic shards. Scatter them, in a slightly smaller amount, over the soil surface after planting. It is good if a large drainage hole is made in the bottom.
Cover the drainage layer with the same layer of sand. This additional protection from stagnant water and subsequent rotting of the roots.
Select only healthy specimens for planting.
For planting, strong, smooth bulbs with developed roots are selected. There should be no dents, cracks, scratches, stains, signs of mold and rot. Also, do not plant bulbs that spread an unpleasant sweetish smell.
Plants are transplanted at the end of the flowering period, when the peduncle is completely dry. No annual transplant needed - ohit is carried out at intervals of 3-4 years. Or earlier, if you see that the pot of the bulb has become clearly small.
However, it is advisable to remove a layer of soil 3-4 cm thick every year and add fresh soil to the previous level.
Before planting an old bulb in a new pot, feed the plant by sticking 2-3 sticks of long-acting mineral fertilizer into the soil under the roots (the most common option is Agricola).
Watering amaryllis in the growing phase should be moderate. Watering begins when the peduncle grows up to 10 cm tall. The plant loves moisture, but categorically does not tolerate stagnant water. It is better to forget about watering than to overdo it. The best option is abundant watering every 3-4 days. Another important point- water should not fall directly on the bulb. Water only the surrounding soil.
During wintering, the plant needs much less water. Spray the soil every 7-10 days.
Feeding amaryllis is carried out every 12-14 days, starting from the moment of bud formation. During flowering, the interval between dressings is reduced to 5–7 days. Any fertilizer for flowering indoor plants is suitable - Emerald, BIO VITA, Bona Forte, Kemira Lux, Ideal, Agricola, Ava, Zhivoi Mir, Rainbow, Reasil, Florist, Bud, Master Color, Power of Life. Give preference to those products where there is more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen.
You can also use natural organic fertilizers - a solution of fresh manure (1.5 cups per 10 liters of water) or poultry droppings (1/3 cup per 10 liters).
Stop feeding when the leaves are completely withered. At rest, the plant is not fed.
In nature, amaryllis blooms in late summer or early autumn. But you can make the flowers appear at a certain moment, for this you need to change the planting date of the bulbs. If they are healthy and well developed, intensive growth begins immediately after planting. Peduncles will form in 7–8 weeks. If there are more than two of them, it is better to cut off the extra ones at the base. Abundant flowering will drain the bulb too much.
After the first flower blooms, the peduncle can be safely placed in a vase. If you change the water in it daily, the flowers will last 16–20 days. An uncut peduncle blooms about the same amount, but in the first case, the bulb is depleted much less. The flowering period will be maximum if both the vase and the pot are removed in a cool place, protected from sunlight.
Only proper care of the plant will allow you to enjoy its beautiful flowers.
Why amaryllis not blooming? Most often for one of the following reasons:
After determining which negative factor is interfering with your plant, eliminate it.
The dormant period begins only after the last leaf turns yellow, and lasts at least 8-10 weeks. It is best to let the plants rest for about three months.
Less common - the bulbs are dug up, peeled and stored in cardboard boxes or wooden crates. In this case, there is a risk of overdrying the roots.
With a little trick, you can get the amaryllis to bloom twice a year - on time, in late winter or early spring. But it is important to maintain a dormant period so that the bulb accumulates enough strength for future flowering. Give her a rest until at least early January.
About 2.5 months before the required date, remove the pots with dormant onions, move them to a bright and warm room and water a little. Keep the soil slightly moist. This is enough to start the active growth phase.
With proper care and a sufficiently long period of rest, amaryllis rarely suffers from diseases and pests. But if this does happen, you need to be able to recognize the symptoms in time and deal with the problem.
Disease or pest
Symptoms
Treatment
Red burn (stagonosporosis)
Small red spots on the bulb or border of the same color along the upper edge of the scales.
Hold the onion for 1.5-2 hours in a strong solution of potassium permanganate. Grease the largest spots with brilliant green. Planting can be done again after 5-7 days.
Rot and mold
Red-gray spots on the surface of the bulb. It becomes soft to the touch, spreads an unpleasant sweetish odor. Reddish-brown spots and stripes appear on the leaves.
Cut off affected leaves at the base. Treat the onion from a spray bottle with a 0.05% solution of Bordeaux liquid (5 ml per liter of water) or with HOM and Fundazol preparations diluted according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Spider mite
The leaves seem to be covered with cobwebs. Then they wither and dry.
Spray with acaricides such as Floromite, Neoron, Nisoran.
Onion mite
Eats onion tissue. The plant develops poorly, practically does not bloom. If flowers appear, they are deformed. The leaves turn yellow and die off quickly.
Remove the onions from the pot and immerse them for 5–7 minutes in water heated to 35–40 ° C. Then carry out the treatment with Keltan and Rogor preparations. A radical option is to place the onion in a hermetically sealed container and set fire to a tiny piece of sulfuric stone. Wait 2 hours, open the container. Leave the onion in the fresh air for a day.
Thrips
Tiny brown dots on the leaves in abundance.
Collect all visible pests, wash the plant, transplant into a disinfected pot with sterilized soil. Carry out treatment with drugs Agravertin,.
Mealybug
Deposits on the leaves and at the roots, reminiscent of small balls of cotton wool, as well as a continuous layer of fluff, glued together with whitish mucus, under the leaves.
Wipe the leaves with a sponge dampened with clean water. If it does not help, apply insecticides (Admiral, Iskra, Fitoverm).
Amaryllis bug
Its excrement appears under the scales, damaging the bulb. They resemble soot.
Apply the above insecticides.
Shield
Dense scales on the inside of the leaves. The color ranges from light beige to chocolate brown. Next to them is a sticky discharge, similar to sugar syrup.
Wipe the leaves with foam obtained from shavings of laundry soap whipped in warm water.
Aphid
The leaves turn yellow.
Collect visible pests by hand. Wipe the leaves with green potassium soap foam or 20% ethyl alcohol.
Leopard
Small translucent worms are visible on the surface of the soil.
Reduce watering. Remove a layer of soil 3-4 cm thick and replace with a new one.
This is how rot on the leaves appears.
Bulbs affected by stagnosporosis
An onion mite is extremely difficult to detect until the bulb has suffered significant damage.
Mealybug is one of the most common pests
The cuckoo is easy to see, but hard to get rid of.
Spider mite entwines leaves
There are three possible ways of reproduction of amaryllis - by seeds, by dividing the bulb and by children (daughter bulbs).
The results will have to wait for a long time. Plants obtained in this way do not retain varietal characteristics and bloom 7–8 years after planting, but such bulbs age more slowly. With proper care, they will grow for over 20 years.
The method is extremely risky - the probability of ruining the plant is very high.
The easiest and safest way. And you won't have to wait long for flowers - amaryllis will grow strong enough in 2-3 years. The process of planting daughter bulbs is almost the same as planting a new bulb purchased from a store. The only difference is that the pot should be slightly larger. Daughter bulbs grow rapidly and reach maternal size in just 2 years.
Amaryllis is exotic that you may well have at home. Subject to the simple rules of care, he will constantly delight you with beautiful flowers.
Good evening, dear gardeners and indoor plant lovers. Two weeks ago I was in the market, I accidentally met grandfather, I was selling in a package some strange bulbs with leaves and earth. She asked what kind of plant), replied that he did not know, but very beautiful. Said he dug out of his garden. Well, I bought it, two onions, one dollar each. I planted it in my garden, in open ground. Less than two weeks later, the flowers bloomed. It turned out to be amaryllis. And here's the bad luck ... I always thought it was a houseplant, my grandmother had it in a pot all her life, but it bloomed very, very rarely. I began to search the Internet for information. Maybe which of you will come in handy too?
I add later: in the comments they wrote that this is not amaryllis, but hyperstrum (I don’t even know))) to rejoice or how)))
This flower has been familiar to me since childhood. We call it amaryllis out of habit, although this is the most common off-grade hiperstrum. We do not part with him, this is our family heirloom. I am sure that it can be found in many other collections as well.
Amaryllis is a bulbous plant that blooms very beautifully. Its fragrant and large flowers can be different: white, red, pink, have a striped or monochromatic color. On a high peduncle, the inflorescences are located singly or in several pieces. The flowers are very beautiful, but small and do not smell at all. All he needs is a compact placement, he grows beautifully on windows of east, south, west orientation. It is important for him to receive sufficient amount of sunlight, in such conditions this hyperstrum actively blooms and does not suffer from a red burn of the bulb. Watering is moderate, between waterings the top layer of the earthen coma is allowed to dry out.
The transplant is carried out in the spring, in a mixture for amaryllis. It is good to plant this variety in groups of several in a pot, then the flowering will be very long. For planting, you should not choose too spacious dishes - then the plant gives a lot of children and does not bloom well.
Question: Is it possible to grow amaryllis in a garden in the open field?
Answer: In summer, amaryllis can be kept in the garden outdoors in a flowerpot or tub. You can plant it on the site, taking it out of the pot, or you can dig it right in the pot. True, in the fall it will be necessary to change the soil, since during the summer all animals that are undesirable for a potted plant when kept in winter will run into the pot, because in the absence of other food it will begin to eat the roots and the bulb itself. Yes, and it is not worth injuring the roots by transplanting again, otherwise the flowering will be postponed indefinitely. Amaryllis cannot hibernate in open ground, even with shelter.
Question: Why do the leaves dry up? And to replace them, new ones grow right there ...
(For the short period of its existence, this happens for the second time for me.)
Answer: So this is the normal cycle of plant development, be it a houseplant or growing outdoors! You are not surprised at the annual fall of leaves, so why is there such a reaction to the change of leaves in indoor plants? The leaves of plants are not eternal, new ones grow to replace the old ones.
If the conditions of detention are for indoor plant unsuitable, this process may take place faster and more frequently than necessary, and may become irreversible. Then the plant dies. Don't get too carried away :-)
Question: The bulb has no roots. How to root it?
Answer: Take ordinary soil from the site or buy a universal soil, freeze it for 6-8 hours, warm the earth to room temperature (+ 20-25 ° C), add the Kornevin preparation to stimulate root growth. Sprinkle coarse calcined sand on the bottom of the hole with a layer of 3-5 cm. Powder the bottom of the onion with Kornevin, plant it.
The height of the pot should be greater than its diameter, and the distance from the edge of the pot to the bulb should be 2-3 cm. Be sure to put a drain on the bottom of the pot, the pot must have a drainage hole. Do not deepen the bulb, it should protrude by a third above the soil surface. Water in moderation, do not overmoisten the soil, otherwise, instead of rooting, the bulb will rot.
Question: How to distinguish amaryllis from hippeastrum?
Answer: The amaryllis from the hippeastrum can be easily distinguished by the structure of the peduncle - in the hippeastrum it is hollow (empty inside) and carries 1-6 large flowers, and in the amaryllis the peduncle is made (filled from the inside) and carries 8-12 large, drooping flowers ... This is the surest distinguishing feature.
Leaves are formed after the flower arrow emerges or at the same time, but not earlier.
One more distinctive feature- hippeastrum, unlike amaryllis, forms daughter bulbs irregularly.
Question: My bulb has lost a lot of weight after flowering. How can you help her regain her volume?
Answer: The amaryllis bulb will be able to "gain weight" only in the next growing season, if you do not allow it to bloom, remove the flower arrow. And in the fall, do not cut off the green leaves, but wait until they turn yellow and return the food spent on them back to the bulb. Don't forget to feed during the season.
In the garden, a well-lit place is best suited for amaryllis, for example, the unshaded south side, since these plants are light-loving and thermophilic. The soil should be of light texture, that is, sandy or sandy loam, rich in humus with a high content of humus is also well suited. Amaryllis prefers open, well-lit places, direct sunlight. Amaryllis is afraid of frost, so for the winter the bulbs need to be dug up and stored indoors, and planted again with the onset of stable heat. Amarallis feels great in a well-lit place, loves a lot of light and does not really like coolness with drafts. Amarallis can grow in light partial shade, but then the growth of the plant slows down.
Reproduction: Amaryllis is propagated by overgrown daughter bulbs - babies that can be separated from the mother during the spring transplant. Already in the 2-3rd year, flowers appear from the daughter bulbs. If you want many flowering arrows in one flower pot, the solution is simple - do not separate the children from their mother.
Top dressing:
Cropping: not needed.
Features of care: The plant is poisonous!
Transfer: usually amaryllis are planted in small flower pots in November-December. But with the same success, you can plant in March-February. At the bottom of the pot, arrange drainage from broken shards and only after that fill it with an earth mixture consisting of turf, leaf, peat soil and sand (1: 2: 1: 1). Before planting, it is very useful to soak the bulb in a solution of Humisol, and then plant it in a pot, burying it halfway into the ground. The pot is best placed on the sill of the southeast or southwest window, since amaryllis is a photophilous plant. And don't forget to water the onion you have planted.
Small bulbs are planted together. Top dressing every two weeks. After the leaves dry up, watering is almost stopped. Withered leaves are not pruned. Amaryllis are transplanted every 4-5 years.
There is nothing easier than growing amaryllis: just a bulb, water and sunlight.
The bulbs have little or no dormancy. After the plant has bloomed, there is no need to do anything with the vegetative part and the bulbs; it is enough to simply remove the flower stalks without affecting the leaves, as they will replenish the nutrients in the bulb. After flowering, the bulb should be grown for 5-6 months.
As a houseplant, amaryllis is grown until early summer, while regular watering should not be forgotten, and standard fertilizers should be used as top dressing. When the danger of frost has passed, the plant can be transplanted outside in a dark place.
To make amaryllis bloom in winter, the bulbs must go through a dormant period.
In August, you can stop feeding and gradually reduce the amount of water supplied. Stop watering completely after three weeks. Let the leaves turn yellow and wither on their own. Cut the leaves 5 centimeters from the bulb.
In September or early October, plant the bulbs in a pot and place in a cool (13-15 ° C), dark and dry place for 6-8 weeks. As long as at least one green leaf remains on the plant, it does not have a dormant period. It is enough to put a pot of bulbs in the basement and forget about it for 2 months.
In November or later, place the amaryllis pot in a lighted area, water, and the growing cycle will start over.
The soil should be damp, but not in any way wet. After flowering, do not let the soil dry out too much. Remember to turn the pot daily to keep the leaves growing evenly. The ideal temperature is 13-18 ° C. Higher temperatures weaken growth. Be careful: flowering should begin after 4-8 weeks from the moment you resume watering the bulbs.
Possible reasons for the lack of flowering: Immature or small bulbs, dormancy too short, very high temperatures during the growing season. It should be noted that the longer you have a bulb and the larger its size, the more flowers and leaves it produces, so it makes sense to store and use them year after year.
Reproduction
All bulbs: hippeastrum, amaryllis, lilies, tulips and others, are propagated by daughter bulbs, which are separated from the mother plant during transplantation. This is the easiest way to reproduce such plants. Planting daughter bulbs is no different from planting the mother plant during transplantation: the same composition of the earth and the height of planting of the bulb. The pot must be taken per adult bulb. Young plants grow rapidly and in two years reach the size of the mother bulb, and amaryllis often do not need to be transplanted.
The second way of reproduction of amaryllis is by seeds. To get seeds, amaryllis flowers must be cross-pollinated with a brush and allowed to ripen. The seed ripening process lasts about a month, after which they are immediately planted in the ground and watered well so that the earth is moist. Seedlings will appear in about a month. When the plants are older, they are planted one at a time in small pots.
When propagated by daughter bulbs, a flowering plant can be obtained in the third year; when grown from seeds, amarylis blooms in the 7th year.
Transfer
The transplant is carried out after the end of flowering and drying of the flower arrow. Land for planting is made up of equal parts of leafy, turf, humus and sand or bought in a store for bulbous plants. The bulb, which was taken out of the old pot, is freed from rotten roots and dry scales, from children that form in the sinuses of the outer scales of the mother plant. The onion prepared in this way is planted one at a time in a pot so that at least 1/3 of the height of the onion is on the surface. Can be left on the surface up to half the height of the bulb. There must be a drainage layer in the pot, and it is advisable to pour a layer of sand under the bottom of the bulb. Amaryllis does not tolerate stagnant water. It is much safer to forget to water this flower than to water it. The pot should not be taken too large. From the edge of the bulb to the edge of the pot, it is enough to have about 3 cm of free space.
Pests and diseases
Sometimes amaryllis can be affected by a fungal infection: red spots or stripes appear on the stem, flowers and bulbs. To prevent this disease, it is recommended to wet the plant as little as possible when watering. If amaryllis is still ill, you can use special preparations: Bordeaux mixture, HOM or foundationazol.
So where is the best place to plant amaryllis?
Option one - open ground. Choose the best place for amaryllis somewhere in a sunny place, among the stones. Amaryllis looks very beautiful against the background of undersized conifers.
The disadvantage of such a landing is its strong dependence on weather conditions. In case of late spring and early autumn frosts, the thermophilic amaryllis will have to be carefully covered. And it will be necessary to dig out its bulbs in the fall no later than the end of September (after all, in October the topsoil in the middle lane already begins to freeze slightly). And if your amaryllis just bloomed in September, then the bulb simply will not have time to ripen normally before digging.
The "plus" of planting amaryllis in the open field is an amazing sight, when such a miracle suddenly appears from the ground against the background of falling leaves and autumn flowers!
Option two is to plant amaryllis in a pot or any other container. You can install it on the balcony or directly on the flower bed.
By the way, wherever you plant amaryllis, remember that you need to plant its bulb rather shallowly. The top of the amaryllis bulb should be slightly visible above the soil surface (if you are growing amaryllis in a pot), or it should be covered with a very thin layer of soil (if you are planting amaryllis in open ground).
For the winter, it is better to remove the amaryllis bulbs on the lower shelf of the refrigerator (along with gladioli); they are stored well and almost do not dry out by spring.
In our latitudes, the flowering period of amaryllis begins in August-September. After flowering, the leaves of amaryllis naturally dry out. In order for this to happen faster, you need to gradually reduce the frequency of watering. The peduncle must be cut off before the onset of the dormant period. After a dormant period in amaryllis and hippeastrum, leaves begin to grow again, and a flower stalk and buds are laid.
The dormant period for amaryllis is the end of autumn and the beginning of winter. In hippeastrum, the dormant period begins after the plant has bloomed, because hippeastrum can be driven out at any time of the year, and not only in late summer or early autumn. Early forcing in autumn or late is possible - then hippeastrum blooms in late winter or early spring. Some varieties bloom even in summer.
But whenever your amaryllis or hippeastrum blooms, it needs a rest period. So far, only one evergreen species of hippeastrum is known - Hippeastrum Papilio, for which there is no need for a dormant period. The rest of the amaryllis and hippeastrum varieties should rest. If you planted amaryllis or hippeastrum for the summer in the ground, then it is necessary to dig its bulb out of the ground before frost and store it in a cool, dark, dry place.
However, after flowering amaryllis, the bulb is not immediately dug up, you must first let the leaves do the important work - to supply the bulb with nutrients.
In the period preceding dormancy, it is necessary to prepare the bulb and give it the opportunity to recover after flowering. The leaves should dry naturally, giving all the strength to the bulb. From mid-September, the frequency of watering amaryllis (or hippeastrum) is reduced. When the leaves turn yellow and die off completely, the plant itself will go into a dormant state.
The main dormant period in amaryllis is 2-3 autumn months. If the plant was planted in the open ground for the summer, then after flowering, the amaryllis must be dug out and transplanted into a pot before frost.
Hippeastrum can be left in the ground for the winter. In general, it is enough to replant these flowers every 3-4 years. And in order for the hippeastrum in the garden to easily endure frosts, it must be covered with a dense layer of peat or other mulch.
But if you decide to take hippeastrum into the house for the winter, the main thing is to provide its bulb with a cool temperature in the range of 10-18 ° C.
At rest, amaryllis and hippeastrum bulbs should be kept in a cool room. It is best if the temperature is about 15 ° C, but a temperature of 10 ° C is also considered acceptable, and the upper indicator is 18 ° C. If it is colder, the bulb may hurt, and if it drops below 5 ° C, it may die.
Therefore, if you live in an area where the soil freezes below 5 ° C in winter, it is better to dig up the bulbs for the winter. This is especially true for amaryllis. Higher temperatures than 18ºC during the dormant period may cause the bulb to germinate too quickly.
This is also not very good, since the plant did not have time to rest, namely, full rest guarantees the laying of a healthy flower arrow.
During rest, watering the onion is only necessary so that it does not dry out - once a month and a half. Moreover, water must be poured into a pan so that the bulb does not rot in conditions of cool air and excess water.
You will know that the recovery period is over when the flower arrow appears at the amaryllis bulb. But active watering and feeding should be started only after this arrow stretches up to 10 cm. From this moment, a new growth cycle of amaryllis or hippeastrum begins. Now you need to learn how to care for amaryllis at home and in the garden, depending on where it will grow.
