Plants are so diverse in appearance, structure, origin that it is impossible to offer mathematically accurate recipes relating to the frequency and volume of irrigation.
Some plants do not endure the lack of water, they are withering or dry as soon as the substrate dries. If the leaves dropped, the plant is often difficult to return to a normal state. Such plants must be grown in a substrate well holding water based on low peat. But there are also species that prefer more rare watering. It is most cacti and succulents and all plants with dense rigid leaves or forming solid thick trunk.
Observation and good knowledge of plants allows you to water in the perfect moment and give the plant optimal amount of water. In the period of growth (from mid-March to late September) plants need the most frequent and abundant irrigation. As a rule, at this time watered 2 times more often and 3-4 times more than during the period of vegetative rest (from mid-October until the end of February). In transition periods, the frequency of watering depends on the air temperature.
Watering by tree plants. At normal temperature (18-22 ° C in the house), plants forming a solid barrel, as well as types with dense leaves, are watered on average every 5-7 days during the growth period and every 10-12 days during the period of vegetative rest (winter). Water should fall on the surface of the earth coma.
Watering herbal plants. Fineless plants, plants, forming sockets or a bush of flexible and thin stems, as well as all plants resembling grass, watered on average 2 times a week during the growth period and 1 time per week in winter. It is best to use the method of immersion pot into the water.
Watering orchids. Forms with pseudo-bulbs or with stems resembling reeds, watered on average 1 time per week throughout the year and only during flowering period - every 3-4 days. Orchids with thin stems or forming sockets are watered 2 times a week during the growth period and 1 time a week in winter. Use unknown water, do not wet the core of the plant and pour out excess water from the pallet.
Watering cacti and succulents. During the period of growth, water every 6-10 days depending on the air temperature and no more than 1 time in 15-20 days in winter. If the temperature is low, do not water at all. For example, lithopc can withstand in a pot of about a year without a single water drop, if the room temperature is below 16 ° C.
Watering bromels. Pineapple, Ehmeu, Guzmania, etc. Water by an unknown water on average once a week throughout the year. During the period of growth, leave the water in the center of the deciduous socket.
Disadvantaged watering . When the plant does not find more in the soil of the water necessary for him to maintain life, it begins to use reserves. Plants having fleshy stems or fleshy leaves, like cacti and succulents can carry drought for several months. And plants with thin and fragile stems, with large thin and flexible leaves, begin to experience the consequences of drought faster. When the cells lose part of the fluid, they lose their elasticity, and the fabrics are nusted or hang. This is the most important sign that the plant is having thirst. In most cases, it is quite good to flush by an earthen one that the plant returns to life again. But remember that the fading relaxes the plant, prevents him from normal development. You must intervene in time, but do not flood the plant, but only give it the necessary.
Slow drying of the Earth in pots indicates a painful state or weak growth of the plant. If the plant turned out to be filled, then it is necessary to break the surface of the Earth, or remove the top layer of the Earth to the roots and fall asleep with fresh land. If the Earth is in a pot of Zakisl, then you need to transplant the plant into a new land, pre-flushing its roots and removing from them by drunk.
If you poured the plant to so much that the pot smelled mold, try changing the substrate. Remove the plant from the pot, squeeze the earthen com, to press water, and remove the maximum possible amount of wet substrate. Move the plant to the new substrate, slightly wet. Do not water the plant at least 15 days.
If the stains spread not only on the leaves, but also on the cutters and the core of the plant, then, unfortunately, it will not be able to save and you will have to purchase another plant.
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Watering for plants has exceptional importance, as well as drinking water for a person. Without a sufficient amount of water dissolving in the soil, the necessary nutrients, the plants are not only worse, but also starve. Water is necessary for all physiological processes: photosynthesis, movement of organic compounds resulting as a result of photosynthesis, as well as to absorb mineral substances as soil solutions.
Watering is one of the most important measures to ensure the viability of plants. The task of watering should be solved in the complex with the problem of achieving the optimal water permeability of the soil. The plant can be rotated from superficial convergence, testing at the same time acute moisture deficit. To increase the permeability of heavy soils (soils for planting plants) in them should be made sand, compost, peat. Usually there are no such problems in modern mixtures - everything is balanced.
Watering water should have neutral acid and alkaline balance and minimum amount of toxic impurities (chlorine, fluorine, heavy metals, etc.). The perfect option is a natural rain, purified, spring or distilled (then using fertilizer) water. Water water is moderately suitable for watering only after settling during the day and stabilization of acid-alkaline balance. Cleaning with activated carbon removes chlorine and fluorine, but saves calcium and salts of heavy metals. You can use filters or purchased water. 
The main rule of watering plants: water only when the earth is dry in a pot. Permanent excess moisture is harmful - it leads to a violation of the normal air exchange in the soil. The root system needs constant oxygen access. With its disadvantage and in excess of moisture, the roots gradually die, yellow and fall leaves. This means that the plant flooded. It is necessary to reduce watering, and in some cases to save the plant, it is necessary to cut it and try to root the cuttings from it, pre-holding them in water. In case of strict compliance, the main rule should be taken into account that watering plants of different groups and species has its own characteristics.
The need of plants in water is determined by their specific features: the structure of the above-ground organs, the power of the root system, etc. For example, plants with juicy, fleshy leaves (such as agawa, aloe, etc.) less need water than plants with large leaves, which sometimes need to water twice a day. For bulbous plants, excess moisture is harmful. It is best to water them, directing the jet of water not on the bulb, and closer to the walls of the pot, or water from the pallet.
There are plants that are very sensitive to the lack of moisture, such as Araucaria. When her twigs begin to freeze, no watering will no longer help. For arakaria, you need to monitor constantly and in addition to watering spraying the plant - as often as possible, it is possible and several times a day.
There is a number of crucial requirements for irrigation water. Here are the main of them: the purity of water, the small content of salts and minerals, the complete absence of toxic impurities and foreign inclusions, neutral or weakly acidic acid reaction. For watering, in most cases, tap water from the total water supply network, well water (outside the city), water from a well, water from a nearby reservoir (that is, river or lake) and rainwater. Naturally, each type of water has its own characteristics and characteristics that indicate the degree of its suitability for watering.
Tap water is filtered and different cleaning stages, What makes it suitable for drinking is everyone known. Also, this water is suitable for irrigation, although it is worth noting that the content in it of minerals is quite small and, depending on the season, the chlorine content can significantly increase.
Well water or water from the well, On the contrary, it is distinguished by a high content of salts and minerals, because, passing through the thickness of the soil, shears the valuable trace elements, which is a positive property for water. But nevertheless, the content in water of minerals should not be overpriced, since then it becomes unsuitable for watering plants.
Water from the reservoir Perhaps the least suitable type of irrigation water, mainly due to the large risk of containing toxic waste, products of rotting, chemicals, bacteria, foreign engines and other hazardous impurities.
Rainwater Significantly softer tap, has an almost neutral acid reaction, and in addition, it is quite high, the dissolved oxygen content. Thanks to all these characteristics, rainding water can be viewed as very valuable for plants, and there is a completely definite meaning to collect it. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that in an extremely polluted environment in rainwater inevitably harmful chemical compounds, heavy metals, lime dust (giving water), products of combustion of liquid and solid fuels in the form of soot and dyeing of the oil liquid, which is in Significantly reduces the value of rainwater.
To reduce the degree of pollution of rainwater, and therefore, the risk associated with it should be followed by a number of rules upon its collection. Since the tanks for collecting rainwater in the overwhelming majority of cases are installed under drainage pipes and chutes before entering the barrel, water flows down the roof, flushing the dust, chemical compounds, soot and other "unfavorable" substances. The water of the first precipitation is particularly polluted after a long period of drought, because The amount of dirt accumulated on the roofs is especially large. Therefore, it is not recommended to collect rainwater, if before that there was no precipitation for a long time. When the rain takes a strong and protracted character, it is possible to abandon the volume of water falling into the first half hour, this time is enough to wash off the roof of the main dust containing harmful impurities. In order to be able to regulate the flow of water in a barrel, a valve can be installed in the catchment unit, overlapping which, you will direct water from the drain pipe to the ground, when it is undesirable to collect the capacitance for one or another reasons.
Switching leaves, loss of turgora leaves and shoots.
In plants with soft, gentle leaves (wet vanka) they become sluggish and lowered. In plants with rigid, leathery leaves (ficus, laurel, oleander Mirate, etc.) they dry and creep (first of all, fall out old leaves).
Flowers and buds fall or quickly faded.
Switching leaves, there are soft sections with signs of rot.
Curled, yellowed and coughing leaves, brown leaves tips.
Feed up both old and young leaves.
there is golden Rule Watering plants - it is better to water smaller, but more often than less often and remember. It should be noted that the fading of the leaves is not always associated with a lack of water. This may occur under the action of sunlight, on the first clear day of a long cloudy weather.
Plants are watered immediately after driving the earth coma. Such watering requires most tropical plants with thin gentle leaves, as well as some plants with leathery leaves (for example, lemon, ficus, gardens, ivy, coffee). Both those and others suffer very much from Perechechka: the leaves are yellow and tremendous or wept and omit, without restoring the previous position. In abundant irrigation, all plants are needed during flowering and growth: even with a slight trip, young shoots, buds and flowers can suffer.
The plants are not watered immediately after the earthlings of the earth coma, and a day later, two, that is, slightly dried. So the plants are watered with fleshy or strong stems and leaves, with thick roots and rhizomes (palm trees, drazes) as well as with aquifers on the roots (asparagus) and bulbous. For some species, easy drying is a prerequisite during rest, as it stimulates the bookmark and ripening of floral kidney.
Excess watering (signs).
Before an overly moistrated plant starts to fade, it seems to look weakened. The plant on the left was politically overly, the same, right, received a normal amount of water.
Plants are leaving dry for several days, weeks, months. This refers to succulents (cacti, aloe), as well as to leaf padded tuber and a bully, having a period of rest.
Most plants are watered in the summer abundantly, in winter - moderately. The main watering is better to spend in the morning. With each irrigation, the plant needs to give as much water so that it goes well with all the earthen kits and went to the saucer. If air bubbles are visible on the surface of the soil, watering is repeated until they are. It is not recommended to water every day, since in this case the water is witching only the top layer of the Earth, and the roots located at the bottom of the pot dried.
Typically, the plants are pouring from above, so that the excess excess of calcium, magnesium salts, and other elements contained in water, which adversely affects the root system, was absorbed by the upper layer of soil, which is less than the roots. Sometimes, fearing the appearance of spots on the leaves or rotting the tubers when the water is hit on them, the plants are watered below, pouring water into the saucer. Do not do this. The stains on the leaves can be avoided if used with warm water - because the spots are formed as a result of a large difference in the temperature of the leaf and cold water heated in the sun. Water from the saucer or kashpo after irrigation is drained so as not to start the roots. This is especially important to do in the fall and winter.
If water when watering does not succumb to the saucer, and it is stored on the surface, it is necessary to check whether the drainage hole was lit. Sometimes, on the contrary, the water very quickly flows into the saucer. This means that the soil is strongly overwhelmed, the water flows through the walls of the pot, not the time to nourish it. Such plants need to be very well to pour, putting them in a basin with a warm water so that it completely covered the pot, and spray with warm water. When air bubbles stop appearing on the surface of the soil, the pots are removed from the water.
Watering the plants you need water room temperature (18-24 ° C) or a little warmer. At low temperatures, the root system is low-active, so in winter it is impossible to use too warm water so as not to cause premature growth of the plant. In summer, plants are wrapped with warmer water (up to 30-32 ° C). The hotter in the room, the warmer should be water used for watering and spraying plants. Watering with cold water, especially in the warm room, can cause foaming of the leaves.
Water for watering should be soft, weakly acidic, free from salts of calcium and magnesium. It is not recommended to use rain and melt water in industrial areas, as it can have an alkaline reaction and contain impurities harmful to plants. More often for watering, it is necessary to use tap water containing chlorine, calcium and magnesium salts that adversely affect plants. The high content of calcium salts in water leads to the fact that the most important elements of nutrition in the soil (phosphorus, iron, manganese, aluminum, boron, etc.) are transmitted to compounds inaccessible to plants.
A few words about how to provide watering plants during vacation. Before you leave for a few days, put plants in the pelvis with water, poured on 1/3 of the porce height. If you are going to be absent for a longer time (3-4 weeks), fill the containers with peat or ground to a height of 15-20 cm, the insertion of the plants, it is pre-good watering them, and make sure of everything again. Plants should be put on the illuminated place, but not in the sun. There is another way of watering. Above plants are the vessel with water, from which the wool or cotton cord is lowered into every pot, well conductive water. The pot with a plant can be placed above the capacity with water. In this case, the second end of the cord is inserted into the drainage hole.
In the summer of dry, hot or windy weather, Bonsai usually watered twice a day (early in the morning or in the evening). If the weather is not very dry and hot, then once a day. In winter or cold, wet weather tree is less active and evaporation from the surface of the soil slowly. Therefore, they watered once a day if the soil does not frozen and the temperature is positive.
Falls of bonsai in summer need more water than evergreen, coniferous, having specialized leaves, preserving moisture. In winter, on the contrary, leaf falls consume less water than coniferous, which continue, although slowly, grow. Pines relatively painlessly transfer the lack of water in the soil, while large-scale decades, especially in hot weather, need abundant and frequent watering.
More conveniently irrigated by immersing the container into a water vessel, so that the water covered the soil surface. At the same time, the soil and the soil is not eroded and the soil is impregnated more evenly and completely. Whereas with watering from above, in case of drying up the upper layer, watering is difficult, as water can roll, without wetting the soil. To keep the container in a water vessel for a long time should not be, as the root system may suffer. Only some plants (for example, swamp cypress) do not suffer from long-lasting roots in water and soil moistening.
For watering, water can be used from water bodies, rain or tap water. Water water contains too much calcium and chlorides. It must be withstanding a day at room temperature so that chlorides evaporate.
Watering water should not be too cold or hot.
In addition to moisturizing the soil in the container, it is recommended to periodically spray the crown of plants with water. This technique not only cleans the leaves of the plant from dust, but also moisturizes the air, which is especially important to do as often as possible to maintain the moss coating in the container. However, it should be not allowed to overvoltage soil with frequent spraying. It is not recommended to spray the plant with bright and hot sun.
One of the most important conditions for the successful cultivation of orchids is the quality of water. Water for plants is not only a source of food and drink at the same time, but also the ability to adjust its temperature.
In nature, the plants use rainwater representing from their own hexual acid solution. But, unfortunately, it's no secret that in cities, no harmless liquid is pouring from the sky.
For orchids (and for other indoor plants) it is recommended to use soft or moderately rigid water. Measuring the water hardness procedure is not simple, so we will take for axiom that in St. Petersburg and in the Baltic States are soft, in Moscow moderately tough, in Kiev - very tough. The faster in your kettle, a layer of scale is formed - the fierce water.
The simplest way to reduce water hardness is its boiling - in which part of calcium salts falls into a precipitate. Well reduces the rigidity of oxalic acid (you can buy in chemical reagents stores, sometimes in flower shops, for example, I saw in the Nagatinskaya street). This is done like this: on a 5-liter cold water canister from under the tap, add about 1/8 teaspoon of acid (it is in powder). Water is defended during the day in the open dishes, it is better to even cut the upper part of the canister to increase the neck. Water should be estimated necessarily open due to the fact that, with a chemical reaction of binding salts of calcium, the volatile compounds of chlorine are formed, which should evaporate. After the day on the bottom, the canister drops an insoluble precipitate of calcium salts. The resulting water must be carefully, trying not to shake the sediment, merge into clean dishes. Just in case, I will never pour water to the end - somewhere the floor of the liter leaves, whatever the sediment fell. Canister should be transparent - it is more convenient to monitor the sediment. In my practice, if the acid with an acid defended more than 2 days. The precipitate ceases to stick together and merge clean water safely.
Another way is to immerse in a bucket with water at night a bag with a top peat - water is also acidified.
If you water the plants with distilled water, remember that it is desolate completely. Consequently, distilled water should be either mixed with the usual estate, or dissolve special fertilizers in it.
Iron water is dangerous for orchids even more than tough. Such water under consideration is muttered and has a tangible taste of rust.
Equally important condition for water suitability is its acidity. Sour water - the pH rate is less than 5 times is very rare. Alkali water is easy to acidify with a conventional lemon. If your water shows pH above 7-and (you can measure either PH-meters or a lactium paper - sold in chemical reagents stores), then dripping lemon juice you reduce the pH value to 6, and measure how much you need droplets to what volume Water current from you under the tap.
Properly cooked water is useful before irrigated by oxygen - To do this, it is necessary to simply pour a thin flowing from one container to another. The water temperature should be room or slightly higher. Phalaenopsis, for example, prefer warm water.
The easiest way is to either use filtered water, or water plants (including bonsai, and orchids) purchased water. The option is to buy special oxygen water, which is good for both people, for animals and plants, an example of such water - oxygen royal water, is sold here.
Watering plants is best just soft rain, river or pond water. Rigid water (including well) containing various salts should be avoided. Especially poorly carrying rigid water aid, azalea, orchids, alpathers, camellia. Well tolerate with rigid water, those plants that grow on lime soils are well.
It should be borne in mind that rainwater can be contaminated with industrial emissions if you live in an industrial area or not far from it.
Chlorinated water from the water pipeline defend at least a day so that Chlorine will manage to destroy.
The water temperature should be at least not lower than room. This is especially important this rule when watering tropical plants. Cacti It is recommended to water warmer water. Watering plants with cold water can cause root rotting, foaming buds and even the death of plants. On the contrary, watering the warm water of plants in the cold room is also undesirable, because This will lead to premature growth of the plant.
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Home plants need regular water consumption as well as all living creatures on our planet. The disadvantage or vice versa - an excess of moisture in a flower pot with a substrate can lead to fading of the flower, yellowing or appearing spots on the leaves, drying and the dejunation of leaves, damage to pests or diseases. Before you purchase a plant and place on the floor stand at the windowsill or on the shelf of the shelving among other species in your collection, be sure to ask what kind of variety it applies and find information on the features of home care - including that how to pour it right New 'Green Pet'.
Some loving plants even come with a lunar calendar to choose the most suitable dates for watering. In this article we will tell you how to organize watering room colors at home. Useful tips, photos and video materials will be especially useful for novice flowers, which are just beginning to be interested in the rules of care of indoor plants.
Below you will find practical recommendations that will help you correct the majority of popular types of home plants. We will consider such questions as the choice of dishes for watering flowers, what water watering flowers, the frequency of irrigation, signs of lack of moisture, watering methods, how to water orchids and others houseplants During your vacation.
♦ Dishes for watering room colors:
Like with a long nose. Practical inventory - long spout can be easily directed through a thick crown, under the bottom leaves or right under the root outlet, so as not to drop the water on the delicate leaves of the flower. Very convenient inventory for watering plants in phytosten or in phytomoduls (vertical landscaping);
flask. Special device with an elongated tip and spherical container-container for water. Such an inventory is great to help you retrieve when you need to leave for a long time. It is enough to fill the tank with water and stick the splash splas in the soil, which will gradually be saturated with moisture as drying;
Spraying pulverizer (sprayer). With the help of spraying with water from the spray, you can provide additional flow of moisture through the tops of the plant. This method will help you save. decorative qualities plants in summer heat or during the heating season, when the level of moisture in the room is very low;
Pallet with water. An excellent way to extract soil in a pot, if the room is too dry air. It is desirable to put a flower pot right into the water, but on a wet clay or pebble in the pallet.
- In the photo: Inventory for watering
♦ Water for watering room colors:
Rain, river, pond water. Some flowerflowers prefer to water the bedroom plants with melt and rainwater. Flowers react well to watering with soft water from natural natural sources. But it is necessary to disinfect water, add a few pieces wood coal;
water water.
Most of the inhabitants of megacols watered their flowers with water from under the tap. But it is important to remember that chlorinated tap water with low-soluble calcium salts is very tough. Be sure to defend this water for at least 24 hours (and better - a few days) before watering colors, and the remnants from the bottom pour out. Water the plants with water room temperature or slightly warm.
- In the photo: signs of lack and overalling water
♦ Roofing frequency:
❂ The frequency of irrigation depends on different factors: a kind of plant, age and plant size, microclimate in the room, season of year (rest season or vegetation), as well as the material from which the pot (ceramic, plastic, glass) is made;
❂ Most indoor plants love regular and uniform watering so that the substrate is in moderately wet state. If the period of abundant soil moisturizing is drastically replaced by a period of insufficient moistening, the flower begins to crack and can die;
❂ B. winter Many indoor plants slow down the processes of growth and development (or stop at all). The need for water with dissolved nutrients is significantly reduced and water should be watered much less often (or not to water at all). And in spring summer period, with an increase in the duration of solar illumination and increasing temperature, the irrigation frequency increases to 1-3 times a week;
❂ Plants with large and wide leaves are watered more often (Ficus Benjamin and Rubbone, Anthurium Andre, Spathifulum, Home Begonia, Gloxinia Sinningia, Gardenia Jasmine, Gerbera, Balzamin, Sheffler, Diffenbahia). The bulbous species should be watered moderately and less often, as the overvailing can lead to the rotation of the root system (Hippeastrum, Clivia, Amarillis, Calla Zanyadesquia, Oxalis, Hyacinths, Euharicis Amazonian Lily). Most species of potted orchids (phalaenopsis, dendrobium nobile) are watered no more than once a week in winter and no more than two times a week in summer. There are indoor species that easily carry long breaks between watering (succulent species - fat man Money Tree, Aloe Vera or Countercake, Trucinal, Sygocactus, Decembrist, as well as such species like Calanechoe Blossfeld, Chlorophytum, 'Techin Language' or Sansevieriya);
❂ Ceramic (clay) pots have a good porous structure, circulation and evaporation of moisture occurs more actively. But plastic pots are well delayed water in the substrate. Therefore, water the flower placed in a ceramic pot is necessary more often than in plastic.
- In the photo: rare, moderate and abundant watering
♦ Watering methods of indoor plants:
❀ Upper watering. For watering the flower on top it is desirable to use a special dishes with a long nose (watering can, flask). It is advisable to guide the spout closer to the stalk so that the water does not fall on the leaves. If the plant has a developed sheet socket, try to direct the water stream under it so that the water is not stored. Water the plant evenly, in small portions so that the water is not stood on the upper layer of the soil. Whole dragging in the pallet water. This is a versatile way of watering room species. The disadvantage of this method - the useful substances of the substrate are quickly washed. Therefore, do not forget to feed plants on time.
❀ Lower watering. Some types of decorative-deciduous plants lose their attractiveness if water drops fall on the leaves (yellowish or black spots appear, the sheet plate is deformed). Therefore, water for watering is filled with pallet. Within 30-40 minutes, the substrate is moistened to the upper layer and all extra water from the pallet must be merged. The disadvantage of this method - mineral salts are not washed out on the contrary - delay in the soil for a long time. If a lime crust appears on the surface of the soil, then carefully remove it along with the top layer, adding a fresh substrate.
❀ Immersion Pot into the water. Highly good method Moisturizing that allows the soil to be completely impregnated with water. Lower the pot with a flower in the water capacity so that the water does not register into the substrate through the edges of the pot. Water quickly impresses all the layers of the substrate through drainage holes. Then place the pot on the lattice so that all excess water flows down. It is not desirable to use this method of moisturizing during the flowering period of the plant, when moving the pot can cause the extinguishing of buds and petals.
- Tables with factors affecting the abundance and frequency of irrigation
♦ Watering indoor plants during the holidays:
√ Vacation up to two weeks.
- the soil is abundantly moisturizing the immersion method of each pot into the water;
- It is desirable to swift the leaf crown and cut the buds of flowering plants;
- pots with plants on racks and stands to compactly arrange closer towards each other (this will increase the level of humidity around the plants);
- Pots immerse in wide pallets with wet clay (so that the water level is a pair of centimeters below the top layer of clay). Between the pots you can place wet moss sphagnum.
√ Vacation up to three weeks.
- perform all steps described above;
- Take the plastic bottles of 0.5 liters and do the holes in the twisting traffic jams. Filling the bottle with water, set them into the clayzit between the pots, immersing the tightly twisted covers with the holes down. As the ceramzit dry out, water will be seeded from the bottle dropped away;
- In every pot with a flower, immerse the special flask for watering (see above) nose down.
√ Vacation up to one month.
- On sale there are special pallets for autopolivation. The system consists of internal and external pallets, capillary rug. The external pallet is filled with water. The internal is installed on top and resurfaced the capillary rug. This rug gradually sucks moisture and gives plants stirred on it;
- Instead of a flask for irrigation, it is best to install ceramic cones with thin hoses immersed in water tank in each pot.
- In the photo: a ceramic cone with a hose for watering
♦ Useful tips for beginner flower water:
☛ Rare and whimsical plants are desirable to water the accumulated mineral water (non-hydrated) room temperature;
☛ If the substrate in the pot together with the earthen room is completely dry, then lower the pot into the container with a warm stretching water to the edge of the pot and place in ten minutes to place on the lattice so that all the excess water flows;
☛ After watering, be sure to drain all the water flowing into the pallet so that the roots of the room plant do not bother;
☛ Sometimes (3-4 times) during the growing season it is useful to water the flower with warm outstanding water (not salty!), In which potatoes were cooked. Starch helps to strengthen the root system and the development of the plant;
☛ If the plant during the flowering period began to actively impose not yet extended buds, then the likelihood is not enough that the soil is not enough or not regularly moistened (against the background of low humidity in the room);
☛ Try to water the flowers so that the drops do not remain on the surface of the stems and leaves. Drops of water dry and leave ugly stains, and also contribute to the appearance of burns. Yellow spots and burns reduce the decorative value of the plant;
☛ Some indoor species require abundant irrigation in the growing season. These plants include many species with leathery leaves (Robust's ficuses' and white de dumbbell, lemon tree, wax ivy hauy), as well as tropical varieties with bright and thin gentle leaves (Petunia, Calatea, Maranta, Croton);
☛ Less frequent plants with small fleshy leaves, which are in the period of rest in a cool room with high humidity, grown in plastic or glassware;
☛ If the water from the tap contains too much lime, it is desirable to skip it through a special filter to use soft water to watering;
☛ Never use cold water for watering, as this can lead to gradual die in the peripheral roots, the appearance of viral and fungal diseases;
☛ The most ideal time for the polishes of most indoor species is an early morning (with sunrise);
☛ In hot summer days and during heating it is necessary to spray plants from the spray gun. Near the plants, you can put a water container for additional humidification.
♦ How to water orchid at home:
❶ Water orchids can only be warm with soft water. Rare collectible and whimsical room types of orchids are desirable to water diluted with distilled water. The resistant water of medium hardness stirred with distilled water in proportion 1: 1. And too hard water stirred with a 1: 2 distilled in proportion;
❷ If orchid without boulevards, then water it after the substrate is completely dry, and the lower leaves begin to lose the tour and shrink. If orchid with bulbs, then water the flower after the bouches begin to shrore a little;
❸ During flowering, most popular home species (phalaenopsis, dendrobium nobile) watered very moderately 2-3 times a week. Watch the water in a pot around the roots, water has never been caught and flowed out freely from drainage holes;
❹ the best way Watering orchids in the summer period - soaking the pot in warm watering water 10-15 minutes. Be sure to make the water completely left the holes at the bottom of the pot after soaking;
❺ How often watered orchid at home. Full soil drying is much safer for the root system than overflow. Most species can be watered with a frequency that is determined as follows: as soon as a completely dry substrate, the next day you can moderately pour a flower. But do not forget that the frequency of irrigation also depends on the following factors: the type of orchid, the growing season or the period of rest, humidity and temperature in the room, the composition of the soil, the pot (volume, from which material is).
How to moisturize the soil in the pot (on the example of room begonia):
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The scientific name of Puancettia - Euoforbia Pulcherima, which means "the most beautiful". But we are this flower, really beautiful from Mokhai, we know under a different name - Puancettia. Such a sonorous and solemn name included in our tongue thanks to Joel Robert Puancetta, politics and diplomat, who served in Mexico.
This outstanding person was a passionate botany, a passionate plant hunter. The service in Mexico provided him with a wide field of activity, in search of new plants, he broke the whole country. In winter, 1828 near Mexico, he was struck by the bright flowering of an unfamiliar bush and crossed the samples of the plated plants home, to South Carolina, where he had plantations and a collection of plants in the greenhouse. After leaving the state post, he was completely given to his passion, engaged in the introduction and reproduction of plants, shared with friends with friends, sent to Botanical gardens.
Puancette made a successful career, became a congressman, but he glorified his name not professional activity, but how we would say today, a hobby. His name was given to an excellent plant, and by decision of the Congress
December 12 from 1851, when the diplomat left his life, it is celebrated as the National Day of Poinsettia.
Here you have to call another name - Paul Eckee. The leaving from the poor family of German emigrants in which children helped parents, selling bouquets of wildflowers, he turned out to be a brilliant marketer and entrepreneur. This man made Puansettia unusually popular in America, it was he who turned poinsettia into a symbol of christmas. December during the day in 1906 in the windows of the famous Boulevard Sunset in Hollywood were exhibited extravagant bouquets, highly evaluated by the discerning public, and the Name of the Christmas star had been established for the plant.
Scientists had to work hard to turn the Bust Poinsettia in a pot
At first, Puancettius was grown in the open soil, but Ekkki breeders managed to achieve, it would seem impossible: to turn a high wild shrub into a potted plant, convenient for transportation. The secret of technology has long managed to keep secret, until the 90s of the last century, the firm remained a monopolist, taking into account the second place in the world in profits from sales - after Dutch tulips.
A tradition to decorate Poansettia at Christmas at home, churches, shops, offices adopted many European countries: Spain, Germany, France, Holland, and in Canada and Mexico, as well as in the United States, celebrate Poinsettia Day. In almost every country where it is popular, she also has its own, popular name: in Mexico she "Flower of the Holy Night", in Chile and Peru - "Corona Anda", in Egypt - "Consul Daughter" (in honor of Puansetta Ambassador ), In Turkey, this is "Ataturk flower".
Poinsettia is not only decorative, but also useful in the house, due to the fact that it distinguishes biologically active substances with antimicrobial effects. So, the amount of streptococci is reduced by 50-60%.
In the homeland, in South Mexico, Costa Rica, Guatemala, this evergreen tropical shrub height of 1.5-3 m forms real thickets in half-directed and sufficiently wet places. His stem is slim, thin, branches straight, naked, branching is weak. Leaves on long stuffs are large, 10-12 cm long, rich green color. They are sowing and smooth, differently cut, but more often oval, with a pointed top. In some new varieties, the form of leaves resembles oak.
READ ALSO: Poinsettia flower - how to care
At the end of the autumn - the beginning of winter on Puansettia appear small inconspicuous greenish-yellow flowers, collected as it were in a handful. They produce nectar attracting birds. But the Poinsettia is appreciated at all for flowering, its main thing (and very bright!) - The top leaves, called bracts, which develop together with inflorescence and frame it with a decorative outlet. In shape and sizes, they are the same as the rest of the leaves, their bright red color is a fixture to pollination, it is needed to attract birds. The flowering period lasts about 2 months; When it ends, the bracts are pale and fall.
Poinsettius Aztecs, called them Cvellachchitil, was considered a magic plant, was used in religious rituals. The Indians believed that the warriors who had the heads in battle were gaining immortality, and the land went down to get drunk nectar from Poinsettia flowers. They had a legend of the goddess, whose heart burst into unhappy love. Blood drops, falling on the ground, turned into flowers, similar to the stars.
Almost half of the selling poin-nets are traditionally red. This color is presented with countless combination of shades: Fire-red Cortese Fayer, PeterStar and Red Daimond, Bright Red With Dark Grounds, Jester Ed, seeming velvety Sort Olympia, Bright Scarlet Sonor Fire and Saturated-Scarlet Frido and Galaxy, Rosovo-Red with White Strokes of the Sonor, Dark Red Frido Coral and Max Red, Almost Ralin Annette Hett Divo.
No less rich in pink gamma: Frida Pink gentle pink, miniature yarrow Pink El, Pink Ribbon Cremyozoa, Cortez Pink Salo-pink.
Extremely attractive hybrids of unusual marble color, for example, low, just 30 cm, Cortez Crim, Monet Twilight with stains and strips of different intensity, and Vinci with strokes pink colour, brighter than the main color. At the variety Jester Pink bracts with green edging, Marblestar and Silverstar Marble - with white.
No bloom, but painting the top leaf decorates polansettia
White Poinsettia is very elegant: Eczes White, Frido White, Compact Siliverstar White, White old, having shades of green. The variety of regina creamy-white with green streaks, Cortez White is an ivory, and Sonor White also with white streaks.
Original Pestry Poinsettia: Live with White Strokes Jingle Bells Sonora and Pink-purple with carved White edges Strozerry & Crim.
Another selection direction is the creation of bracts of an unusual form. Now they are very narrow or very broad, wavy, with carved edges. Poinsettia, called "Winter Roses" (Winter Rose), which are rounded, and large bracts are wrapped in a bud like the petals of old English roses. They are bred by English breeders. They are very similar to the variety of Harlequin Red with corrugated terry bracts, but he has decorating leaves. The most popular terry variety carousel Pink, gently pink with green streaks.
Often, in European countries with Puansettia, they cost, as with a bouquet of flowers: lost sight - thrown out. They believe that it is easier to buy a new plant than to care for the old one. Meanwhile, if, knowing the development cycles of Poinsettia and some of its features, create the necessary conditions for it, it will delight the bright stars of bracts and the next year.
You need to choose Poinsettia in the store does not hurry, because the goods must be the first-class, brought by the sustainable supplier. From the quality of delivery and plant content in the store depends, whether it will please long flowering or will bring disappointment. Because these factors, about which we usually do not think and that may not seem so important, for poinsettia defining, errors cannot correct in the future the most careful departure. So we can say that the store also needs to choose, the sales and fairs are not suitable here.
So we are in the store. We go around the plant standing too close to the street door or in draft. "In cramped - yes not in the offense" - this saying to Poinsettia is not
Applies. There are much better than those specimens that they are not tight to each other, but separately, on the square and do not have packaging. If the protective packaging (it is intended exclusively for transportation) was not removed on time, and the flowers have long been waiting for their buyer, they could easily pour when watering. For the same reason, we will pass by plants that are waiting for their new owners in beautiful paper or cellophane.
The store needs to carefully pack purchased poinsettia. When heocoled, it will be impossible to return it to life.
About how carefully belongs to the sellers to plants will prompt and the rest of the substrate. Check if it is too dry or wet. Bustic, not embarrassed, twist in your hands. It should be with a short stem, lush, thick and even from all sides, not one-sided. If the bottom of the stem is strongly bare, it means that the conditions of the content have already been violated and the poinsettia lost part of the leaves.
To make sure that there are no pests and diseases, carefully inspect the leaves. They should look healthy, being saturated green color, do not have any stains. Slissed, drooped leaves during crude soil may indicate the beginning of the root rot. It is useful to look at the bottom side of the leaves to make sure that there is no blocker or aphid.
It is best to acquire poinsettia at the end of autumn, and not in front of the winter holidays - at this time the choice is already sufficient. And if you manage to buy a plant, which is only going to bloom, time to enjoy his lush look, will be plentiful. Therefore, pay attention to flowers, they should be still in buds. If the yellow pollen revealed and visible, it is difficult to say how much the bright color of the bracts will last.
Poinsettia brought to home needed with all attention to understand how she feels in new conditions. While the acclimatization lasts, it is suitable for a bright place and a temperature of 20-22 degrees. As soon as our unwitting will buy, we define it on the solar window. Lighting is required bright, but scattered.
The window should be warm if the windowsill is concrete, cold, you need some kind of stand or gasket, all windows with slit frames will have to be insulated. At the same time, it will not approve both the neighborhoods with the fatty battery or heater, so we move it away from heat sources.
In general, often drag poinsettia from one place to another is not recommended. During flowering, it is suitable for her temperature from 18 to 24 degrees. At 18 degrees, bloom lasts longer, at a higher temperature bloom in short, but the bracts themselves will be larger, although not so bright. The air is needed enough wet.
While the bracts will not get a painting characteristic variety, watering regular and moderate. To understand whether it is time to water our beauty, you just need to feel the substrate in the pot: if it is felt as wet, the soil particles remain on the skin, then it's too early, if in a pot dryer - it's time. During flowering, watering is abundant, but it is important not to leave in the pallet with unaptive water, after half an hour - it is necessary to merge it to merge so that the roots are not mocking. It is not usually necessary to feed the purchased plant, it has enough nutrients in the substrate.
It happens that a healthy plant with unconcelion flower has been acquired. The bracts from him only begin to be painted, but they do it too leisurely, remaining small and quite pale. Most likely, Poinsettia lacks light and nutrition. In order for it as soon as possible to turn into a bright bouquet, you can make it a shower and feed her fertilizer for indoor plants with a high content of phosphorus and potassium.
In February, Puansettia begins to gradually drop his beautiful colored leaves. At this time, it is slowly cutting watering and finish spraying.
Reducing watering, we pushing the plant to prepare for the rest period, and imitate the processes that occur in the places of its natural growth.
Poinsettia's rest period is pronounced brightly, losing the leaves, she quickly loses his Krai cell and turns into a non-sustainable type of bushing with naked stems. It rests approximately 1.5 months, from February-March to March-April.
Poinsettia should not put next to vases filled with fruit. Ripe apples, pears, melons, bananas highlight ethylene, destructive for colors.
As soon as the main part of the leaves is reset, it is necessary to shorten the twigs. How hard to trim the bush - depends on your desire and its height. Usually shorten on 1/3 or 1/2 height, and there should be 3-5 knots on the remaining "hemp" (they remain on the place of fallen leaves and are well noticeable). Weak shoots need to be removed at all. The cuts are sprinkled with crowded charcoal.
Poinsettia rest time is better to carry out in a cool room at a temperature of 18-19 degrees and with non-market lighting. If this is unattainable, let it be any place of moderately warm room, the main thing is to be dry.
Watering while leisure is meager, only the substrate does not save, you can simply spray the land in the pot.
In March-April, the plant wakes up, new shoots are started into growth. Usually there are too many of them, all they are not needed, so weak again remove and leave 5-6 the strongest. As soon as they grow by 10-15 cm, they are plugged, leaving on each 3-4 sheets. It stimulates the appearance of new twigs, poinsettia begins to strike. So the plant is formed until August and result in a thick compact bush. This month, the trimming is completed, because it comes it to put flower kidneys.
In the spring and summer, behind Puansettius, they take care of the same way as behind other bedroom flowers. As soon as active growth starts, it is put on the solar window sill again, defending against the direct sun, so as not to overheat, and burns appeared on the leaves. But if the bright lighting of Poinsettia is welcomed, then the heat is not, the temperature should not rise above 27 degrees even with good air circulation.
Fall first very neatly, little by little. Gradually, watering strengthens, to leading to absolutely, so that the earthen comes are well soaked with water. Between irrigations, he does not allow to disperse. Apply the humidity of the air to the state of the rainforest, saturated moisture, of course, will not succeed, but frequent spraying somehow help to survive heat. Since the revealation of new shoots, 2-3 times a month, the flower is fed by complex mineral fertilizer (for flowering plants).
In mid-September, the volume of waterings and feeding gradually reduced, while maintaining good daylight lighting and a temperature of not lower than 18 degrees. Lively in the summer on the balcony, most likely, have to be transferred to the house by defining a well-lit place, and as soon as the central heating is included, moisturize the air.
In order for Puansettia, the buds laid and painted bracts, you need a short day and a long night, lasting 14-15 hours. To do this, since the beginning of October, it is satisfied with "dark", covering in the evening with any light-tight material - a black polyethylene bag, a dense package, or attributed to the storage room, removed into the closet. If the darkening turns out to be incomplete and light will fall on the poinsettia, for example from a street lamp, then stains will appear on the bracts. Under the night cap hold about 2 months, but in the afternoon they put on the brightest windowsill. We gradually watered and fed. At the beginning of December, buds become visible, and the bracts begin to be painted. Now you can not hide Puansettia for the night. From mid-December, feeding stops, care again becomes the same as when buying.
In the summer of Puancettia perfectly feels in the fresh air. As soon as the constant warm weather is established, send it to the balcony or a veranda, picking it up, where it does not suffer from rain and strong wind. But it must be borne in mind that even on a glazed balcony, with a strong cooling, the overseas beauty will be uncomfortable.
Punsettia transplant once a few years, as needed, without reason it is better not to disturb it. In April-May, a slightly spacious pot is in a pot. Its diameter should be 1-1.5 cm more than the root com. The fact is that the root of the Puansettia system is small, it will not be able to immediately master the new soil, as a result after irrigation, the earth will remain too wet, which is fraught with reinforcement roots.
So, the root system is carefully examined, damaged roots are cut. If everything is safely, Puansettia is transferred to a new pot, trying to preserve the earthen com, befened with fresh soil.
You can buy universal finished soil for flowering plants and add large river sand to it. It is easy to prepare a substrate yourself, mixing in equal proportions of humus, peat, leaf and turf, sand. If all of the listed components are not, the composition can be changed by turning on it, for example, only peat, leaf (stern) land and sand (perlite) (2: 1: 1). Or compost, peat, sand (2: 1: 1).
At the bottom, it is arranged a drainage layer of up to 3 cm from clay or brick crumbs. A few complex fertilizers are added to the soil mixture, better existing granular. If fertilizers do not bring, then approximately 3-4 weeks after the transplant starts cautious feeding, first with a very weak solution. Within 7-10 days, while Puansettia is recovered from stress, they are kept in a half, wipes well, spray in the heat.
In nature, Puansettia is multiplied by seeds, and at home - only rooting cuttings. They are cut from shoots increasing in spring or early summer. To get them more, poinsettia after flowering is cut off, leaving 10-12 cm of heights and 3-6 strong kidneys, transfer to the place with scattered light. Water, once every 2-3 weeks feed, using half of the recommended dose in the manual.
As soon as the sleeping kidneys will be touched into growth, the temperature raise up to 25 degrees. The shoots give to grow, only when they are 6-7 leaves on them, cuttings that have 5-6 well-developed kidneys (nodes) are cut.
It is necessary to prepare to land on rooting the cuttings. First, 2 cm below the last node make the oblique cut. Then the cutting of 10 minutes was washed in warm water (35-40 degrees) to wash off the milky juice. When it stops flowing, cut off once again, making the slice now directly under the lower node. Washed with a napkin, sprinkled with unwrapped wood or activated pharmacy coal or just well sued in air. For better rooting, you can break down the cuts of rhus.
The cuttings are planted in small tanks with a diameter of 6-7 cm at a depth of 1-1.5 cm. For landing it is convenient to use transparent disposable plastic cups. They are suitable in size, and they will be seen when the roots appear. Plant into a wet loose substrate. This is usually peat and sand taken in equal proportions. Suitable and soil for succulents, which add the same amount of sand.
At first, the cuttings are loosely covered with plastic film, humidity at this time is needed high, up to 90%. The location is selected warm, with a temperature of 24-25 degrees and with scattered light. The cuttings do not watered, but only regularly spray the soil, but, attention (!), If the house is hot and dry, it will dry out very quickly - due to a small volume. After 3-4 weeks, strong roots will appear, after that the temperature is reduced to the level of 18-20 degrees. About half of the cuttings are usually rooted, and when using rooting agents - even more.
As soon as active growth is started, approximately 2 weeks after rooting, the plant begins to make a little to feed. In order for Puansettia better to close, shoots the shoots over the 5-6th sheet and regularly continue this work, forming a rounded thick compact chop. If you wish, you can give poinsettia the shape of the tree on a long "leg". So that the flower does not grew by one-sided, it is regularly rotated by 90 degrees.
Grown bushes are transplanted in slightly large tanks by transshipment using a mixture for adult plants. If Puansettia deems your care worthy, the next year will bloom.
If something poinsettte does not like, it always reaches the same: drops\u003e leaves. This can happen when the soil is overwhelmed or cutting the soil, with a duty of standing on a draft or in a too cool place, finding in too hot and dry room, with a lack of eight or watering with cold water.
The diseases of Poinsettia are rather 3 stable. In winter, the supercooling of the Earth's Coma on the cold window sill with abundant irrigation leads to the emergence of root rot. With this mushroom disease, the lower leaves lose their elasticity, yellow, are covered with stains, fall. While the disease did not go too far, we need an urgent transplant with a subsequent 2-3-fold treatment of plants and soil Fun-Dazol (2 g per 1 liter of water) after 3-5 days.
In the extreme case, for breeding, you can use shoots that remain after spring and summer trimming, although they are usually shorter than you need, there are few intersals.
The disease is sulfuric rotting is possible at low air temperature and excess watering. It is especially often striking poinsettia during coloring bracts, appearing in the form of a gray laid on the leaves and lower branches. All the affected parts of the plant are removed. If damage is significant, the processing of Fundazole or such fungicides as Topcin-M, readomyl, is also recommended.
With too dry air on Poinset-Tii, a red cobweb tinger is sometimes settled. To see this movable pest is difficult, it is only 0.1-0.4 mm in size, it dwells on the bottom of the leaves. You can learn about the appearance of the subtles in yellowish specks on the leaves and thin white cob. However, it is usually noticed when pests have already been spread. The leaves become dull, dry and fall.
The rescue of the plant begins with the wash of hot (up to 50 degrees) with soapy water (20 g of "green soap" or 20 g of household soap on 1 liter of water), especially carefully passed by a sponge on the bottom of the leaves. Then the land is tightened with the film and the plant is well under the shower. Usually 2-3 treatments are enough. The insecticides are most effective in the inseconomy (1 ml per 1 liter of water), Aktellik, Aka-Rin, phytodeter, are also suitable. To avoid troubles in the future, you need to follow the humidity of the air, trying to prevent excessive dryness.
Shield is another enemy of houseplants. Externally, it looks like a small, size of 2-4 mm, a dense pot, tightly sitting on a sheet or escape. Her body is covered with an oval wax shield of grayish-white or yellow. The shield and its larvae also feed on plant juice, braking their growth and development.
To save the plant from such a dangerous resident, you first need to neatly scraping the plaques manually, and then wash the entire bush with warm soapy water or wipe with a cotton swab, moistened with vodka or infusions, garlic, acute pepper or tobacco. A accuters are used from the preparations (2 ml per 1 liter of water) or other insecticides (Aktara, Rogor, Phytodener).
On the stalks of the stem, and with a strong infection and on the leaves, sometimes you can see something similar to the tiny bulls of cotton. This is a torment Cherver - a low-propelled insect of 2-4 mm long. Cherwe-Tsy and their larvae not only suck juice, but also injected toxic substances, with the result that the plant loses the leaves and weakens.
All visible injury of pests should be removed with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol, or wipe the leaves with a wet sponge. With strong infection, the same insecticides are used as against the shields.
One of the most common pests is white lika, small white flying insects, similar to tiny moths. The main harm to the plant is caused by larvae, spoiling leaves, but also adults are not harmless, being carriers of viral diseases. Acting the actor, kinmix, phytodeter, if necessary, then stronger insecticides - Talstar, confident. They can be alternating with Verticillin biopreparation.
Poinsettia, a beautiful winter-living room plant, gave me a son in front of the army. It was in early December. Then I gave myself a word that I would definitely be preserving a gift, although it was not particularly hoping, believing that after flowering it would rise - and we part with her.
Livala will be completely wetted, but water was not accumulated in the pallet. Bathing Puansettia from drafts and hot air batteries. From a cold draft, as well as from too cold or roast content, from pamping and excessive watering the leaves fall and slugging the top kidney. Even the touch of leaves to the cold window glass for the plant is detrimental. Poinsettia is very vulnerable - at the first signs of discomfort, it easily resets flowers.
As you know, the entire beauty of the Puin-Seth is in the bright (white, pink, yellow, spotted - for every taste!) Bracts surrounding non-obscure flowers. My poinsettia was painted in raspberry-red.
This compact branching plant with a height of no more than 50 cm blooms in December and looks elegant to six months. In winter, Poinsettia loves good lighting, in the summer - half.
In order for the light day to be no more than 10 hours, since September covered it with a dark paper package and held it for two months. Only at the same time she flources to the new year or Christmas, thereby confirming its second name - the Christmas star. A short light day and a complete darkness of a long night - the necessary conditions for staining bracts and blooming Pu-Antestetia on time. Best temperature mode - + 14 ... + 18's. Once I forgot to trace the light regime and did not cover the plant, but it still bloated in early April.
After flowering Poinsettia dumps bracts. The tops of the shoots I cut on 1/3 of the length, and the plant itself transplant the transshipment method into a more spacious pot, sleeping more.
When new shoots beat, some of them removed, leaving 4-5 the strongest. Cropped cuttings used for breeding. First of all, immersed them in warm water for half an hour to come out of Milky Juice (another name of Poinsettia -
However, the "asterisk" so conquered me with his beauty that I, having gaining experience in flowerflowers, kept the plant and now enjoy it blooming every year. And how my son was delighted when, returned in three years from the army, I saw the same flower, only grown and even more beautiful!
To keep poinsettia, I had to try pretty. First, immediately put the plant in a well-lit place protected from the midday sun. Regularly sprayed him and moderately on the more beautiful). Then the blade made a new cut under the kidney, removed the extra leaves and again lowered in warm water for 10 minutes. Put the cuttings into the cups with a sterile soil consisting of peat and sand, first moisturizing the tip, and then having saved in the growth stimulator type Korninal. Before boarding the soil shed. Sits at a depth of 1.5-2 cm, pressing the stalk with his fingers and the coverage of the crust.
As soon as noticed that the top began to grow, the coupons took off (about a month and a half). All this time watered the seedlings with a pink solution of manganese and ventilated.
When the plants were strengthened, made the sepure in the hope that the bushes would be more lush.
In the water, it did not try to root, but I know that this method also exists. In any way, the percentage of rooting is approximately 50 to 50, so for insurance every year all the cropped cuttings are planted.
Keep in mind that Milky Juice of Poinsettia is poisonous, so be careful - when leaving the plant, wear rubber gloves. And yet: Find the place to her, inaccessible for children and animals.
✓ Aztecs were the first to evaluate Puansettia. They used her red bracts as a natural dye for cosmetics and fabrics, and the white juice of the "Christmas Star" - for the treatment of fever.
Fence and preferably to the plant belong to Europe.
The Spaniards, for example, consider poinsettia a holy night flower, bringing wealth and good luck in their home. In winter floral fairs, it is represented by sophisticated and elegant varieties.
Plants blooming in the dark months of the year, a little. One of these is the most beautiful, or poinsettia. All winter, beauty serves as a magnificent decor element. When flowering is over, the plant is cut off, stimulating branching.
From cut stems, you can grow new copies.
I replaced Puansettia in April. 10-15 cm long cuttings rooted in a mixture of sand, peat and small clay. In May, I sit on 1-2 pcs. in the pot in a diameter of 5-7 cm in a mixture of sheet, turf, humus and sand (2: 2: 4: 1) and put in the street
Greenhouse. In June, I transplanted into pots with a diameter of 9 cm. In July, young plants pinch. With the advent of lateral shoots, Puansettia transplant once again into the vases with a diameter of 12 cm and tapping to the peg (if necessary). All this time, plants irrigantly irrigate and feed the full mineral fertilizer; The optimal temperature during the growth period is + 20-25 degrees. At the end of August, I transferred from the greenhouse to the windowsill and control the light mode, since Poinsettia is a plating a short day.
Flowers Poinsettia from December to February. During flowering, the temperature reduces to + 16-18 degrees. - So bracts are painted most intensively. After the end of flowering (February-March), the "Christmas Star" comes a period of short-term recreation. I transfer to a darkened place, if possible in the coolness (optimally + 12-15 degrees.). Earthen comments periodically slightly moisturize. In April, we cut off on 1/3, I pull the substrate in a fresh substrate and put in a well-lit place.
Poinsetthy is called the "Christmas Star" for bright bracts: collected at the ends of the shoots in the "Stars", they paint just to Christmas.
Garden and cottage\u003e Indoor plants and flowers\u003e Poinsettia is the most beautiful (photo) - how to care
The base of the composition is one-piece slices of the crust. If the bark reached, the mixture for orchids is not sure: the moisture for the plant is consumed a lot, the air will pass badly.
The bark before planting orchids is pre-vested in order to better absorb moisture during irrigation of the transplanted plant.
Transplanting orchid during flowering is impossible. Experienced flowerflowers They consider the most favorable spring period.
Orchids behave differently, each capricious in its own way. New and already known hybrid varieties Disposable taking into account the maximum ease of care. But there are rules common to all orchids, which should be strictly followed.
They prefer a bright place, but not under the right sunlight, otherwise they will get a burn, then the leaves will yellow and fall. In winter, there are blooming orchids closer to light, additionally illuminated by phytolampa. During this period of the year, most plants are freeing life, the period of bookmarking new shoots occurs.
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Watering - prerequisite For the life of plants. Cultivation without watering is impossible for one plant, they all need water. Many watered their plants "how it will turn out", from the case towards the case, but do not wonder how to water the flowers. But in order for the plants to always look beautiful to watering brought maximum benefit for them, you need to know some rules watering home plants. So,
Water for watering plants can be an ordinary water supply, but estimated at least during the day. In order for chlorine, it is necessary to defend the water in an open container. Soft water for watering is suitable in the best way. Water water in most cases is rigid. Even tougher water from wells, it is not at all suitable for watering houseplants.
How to soften such water for watering? It is enough to boil it for 3 to 5 minutes. When boiling, most of the harmful salts falls into a precipitate, and water becomes soft.
It is undesirable to water the plants with distilled water, because It has no mineral salts necessary for plants. The exception is azaleas, garment, ferns, camellia, orchids and some predator plants for which watering distilled water is even desirable, because They must be poured only with soft water.
Water from the windows and from cylinders for watering home plants is better not to use, because The composition of it is not known to you, and such water can harm the plant.
Since in most cases, tap water has an alkaline reaction, it must be neutralized. If this is not done, the soil is overshadowed with time, resulting in the root plant of the plant. In order to neutralize an alkaline reaction of the aqueous medium, it must be slightly acidified. To do this, it is sufficient to add food citric acid into water for watering at the rate of 1 teaspoon of citric acid per 5 liters of water. Lemonic acid is added to warm water immediately before irrigating.
Watering home plants with cold water is unacceptable, because When watering such a water, the vessels of the root system of plants are narrowed, and as a result in their upper part, moisture and nutrition, the root gradually deviates and the plant may die. Watering with cold water of flowering plants can lead to falling out of flowers and barring.
It is possible to water the plants that are in the period of rest. This prevents premature vegetation and plant depletion. For watering plants, which stopped their growth for the winter peace period, use the water is colder than the air temperature, sometimes even water with snow.
In all other cases, the optimal water temperature for watering home plants is + 30-34 ° C, so water must be heated a little, even in the summer. Watering such water is favorably reflected in the growth and development of plants.
The plant needs to be poured throughout the volume of the vason in small portions so that the soil is soaked from above with water. It is necessary to water until water appears in the pallet. In this case, you can be sure that the upper, and the lower part of the root system will receive a sufficient amount of moisture. After 30 - 40 minutes, the water from the pallet is removed. During this time, the root system of the plant will have time to absorb that moisture, which did not have time to absorb during watering. It is impossible to leave water for a longer time, otherwise you can provoke the rotation of the root system. If the vase is big and it is impossible to raise it, remove the water from the pallet with the help of a fringe, sponge, moisture wipes.
How many times watered home plants - a question that requires an individual approach. The frequency of watering depends on the type of plant, the volume of the vase, the composition of the soil, the activity of the root system and weather conditions. On cloudy and cool days, the plants are pouring less frequently than in days clear and sunny; With dry and warm air in the placing plants, it is necessary to water enough than with wet and colder air; Plants in light and loose soil require more frequent irrigation than growing in a dense, heavy soil.
How to calculate watering? The best guideline in order to decide on watering is the embrace of the earthen coma. The signal of the need for irrigation is the drying of the upper layer of the soil by 1.5 - 2 cm. Succulent plants are watered after grazing the earth coma to a depth of 3 - 10 cm (the greater the container, the higher the soil should dry).
And what if there is no possibility to pour plants in a timely manner (for example, during the vacation period)? How to leave flowers without watering? Will they withstand such stress? How to organize watering correctly during the period of vacation or business trip, read here.
a source
None of the conditions of growing houseplants require so much attention as watering. It is necessary to control it all year round. It is in this area that beginner lovers of houseplants make the most mistakes. They either pour plants with water, believing that in this way they will make them happy, or they generally forget that it needs water. As a result, the plant receives either too much water, or too little; And then, and the other can simply destroy him.
It may seem that all plants sufficiently moisturize a certain number of times every week. However, it is not. Each plant has its own requirements for watering - it depends on the magnitude of plants, the size of the pot, the time of year, temperature and illumination, the quality of the soil and the need for moisture inherent in the specific form. For example, in cloudy days, the plant needs less in moisture, but in sunny weather he needs more water. In the warm summer months of the plants need abundant irrigation, and they need less in cool weather. Even in stable conditions, the constant amount of water is not a guarantee of success, since the plant increases in size and, accordingly, increases the amount of water required it.
More often and richly watered:
✓ Plants in clay pots;
✓ Plants with large or subtle leaves;
✓ Plants with thin stems;
✓ plants during active growth;
✓ Plants with a powerful root system;
✓ Plants with hanging stems;
✓ in the warm season and at high temperatures in the room;
Less moisture requires:
✓ Plants in plastic pots;
✓ Plants with thick leaves with wax raid;
✓ Plants devoid of leaves;
✓ Plants with thick stems;
✓ plants at rest;
✓ just transplanted plants;
✓ Plants with a weakly developed root system;
✓ weak and depleted plants;
✓ at low air temperature indoors;
✓ on cloudy days or with weak lighting;
✓ with high humidity;
✓ In the absence of air movement in the room.
For example, orchids from the kind of dendrobium watered no more than once a week
The experience of many indoor flower activity lovers has developed an accurate criterion: the plant is time to water when the earthen mixture in the pot becomes dry. The problem is only that the mixture that seems from above dry, remains moist in the middle of the pot. You water, thinking that the earth is almost dry. In fact, you overshadow it with water from the middle of the pot until the bottom, which is no less harmful to plants than the drying of the soil. How to understand what state is an earthen com: wet, dry or almost dry? Sometimes it can be defined "on the eye" and "for rumor".
The color of the earth mixture depends on whether it is wet or dry. Wet mixture dark brown, and dry or almost dry becomes pale brown and dim. One of the common techniques, therefore, is to water the plants, when the earthen mixture begins to pale. However, the assessment of the eye is not always reliable. When the mixture on most of the surface, the pot becomes dry, it can be wet at the bottom. However, for small pots can be assumed - if there is dry, it is dry, it is dry enough in the entire pot. You can determine whether plants should be water, just knocking your finger on the pot. If the earth in the flower pot is dry, the sound will be ringing, if the wet is deaf.
The easiest way to determine whether the plant needs in watering, is to try the soil in a pot with a finger or a wooden stick. Immerse your finger in an earthy mixture to the first or second joint. If the soil is felt as wet, watering is not required. If dry, then the water in the soil is clearly not enough. This technique is a reliable indicator of soil moisture in the entire pot, and it can be used for plants in pots height 20-25 cm. Avoid checking the moisture mixture with your fingers several times in one reception. So you can damage the roots of a small and gentle plant and thus bring it more harm than good. Check the soil moisture with your fingers is better at the appearance of the pot, and not at the base of the plant.
You can determine whether the plant needs in watering, just raising the pot. It is clear that recently polished soil mixture weighs more than dry. Plants B. plastic containers, growing in standard soil mixtures, after watering weigh by about two times more than dry. This is, of course, a rough estimate. The difference in weight depends on the type of pot, soil mixture and the material from which the pot is made. However, even plants in clay pots with a heavy soil mixture are noticeably easier when the soil dries. The use of the Weighing method requires some practice. Rim up a plant between watering several times to feel the difference in weight between pots with wet and dry soil. Then some time later you can easily determine the difference between a lighter pot when the plant is irrigated, and heavily, when it does not need it.
Watering the plants in large containers - more than 30 cm high - has always been a problem for fans of indoor plants. Plants growing in deep pots or tubs are constantly exposed to the risk of overvoltage. Fortunately, reliable and harmless devices have been developed to determine soil moisture in large tanks. You can find various soil moisture indicators. These devices measure the amount of water at a certain depth. Plug indicator plug into the soil about 2/3 lengths. The arrow on the scale will indicate "wet", "dry" or something average. Water only if the indicator indicates that the soil is dry. Keep in mind that the old, worn meter gives unreliable testimony, so it needs to be changed to a new approximately once a year. However, even a new meter can give an inaccurate estimate if the soil mixture contains many mineral salts. They can accumulate if you have irrigated the plants with rigid water for several years. In this case, the inaccurate readings of the meter indicate that your plants need to replace the old soil mixture to fresh.
In addition to the standard meter, there is a sound meter of humidity, it indicates when the plant needs irrigation, ringing, whistle or other beep. The sound meter is arranged in the same way as standard, but instead of the scale on the other end there is a sound transmitter. It costs about as much as standard. It makes sense to buy one such meter and keep it in a pot with a plant, which usually dries faster than others. When the indicator serves a beep, it is time to check the remaining plants with traditional methods.
Each type of plants need its irrigation mode. This information can be learned from the description of the content of a particular plant. There is a diverse, moderate and rare. Abundant irrigation is produced immediately after driving an earthen coma. Abundant watering is required by most tropical plants with subtle leaves. With moderate watering, the plants are watered not immediately after driving an earth's coma, and a day later, two. Moderate watering is required, in particular, plants with source and stems (African violet, peperomy, etc.) and thick roots and rhizomes (drazes). With rare watering, plants leave dry for several days, weeks or even months. This refers to cactis and succulents, as well as to plants during rest.
Strict irrigation mode for each plant to maintain not easy, especially if you have a lot of plants. Ideally, you should regularly check the status of the plant and water it immediately as soon as it takes. This method brings the best results, because in this case there is an alternation of the wet and almost dry state of the soil. Check each plant once every 3-4 days in one of the methods described above and water only those plants that are currently necessary. Recommendations in this matter can only be common.
It is better to water the plants bowl and gradually, the less often and is rich. The main watering is better to spend in the morning. With each watering, the plant needs to give as much water so that it is well moistened with the whole earth com and glass into the pallet.
Regular disorders of the irrigation regime affect the appearance of most plants.
The lack of water can be noticed on the following features:
Leaves and shoots become sluggish;
In plants with rigid leathery leaves, the leaves dry and fall out;
Flowers and buds fall or quickly faded.
With an excess of water:
On the leaves appear signs of rot;
The plant is clearly slower than growing;
On buds and flowers, mold appears;
The tips of the leaves become brown;
Feed up both old and young leaves.
When the soil mixture dries so much that it becomes almost crispy, a curious phenomenon is observed - the soil mixture refuses to take water. How many water you do not lily, the earth becomes slightly wet only on the surface. This happens because the potted pot is highly overwhelmed from the walls of the walls and slots are formed between the walls and the earthen room. When you water the cristed ground from above, water flows on these slits on the bottom and through the drainage hole is poured into the pallet. The earthlings will remain dry. Therefore, when the Earth dries too much, it is useless to water it from above. What to do? Pour the leaves and stalks of the plant from the shower. Fill the pelvis or other capacity of water temperature and immerse the pot with a plant in it, carefully giving the pot with a cargo (stone or brick) so that it is completely immersed in water. Then add a few drops to the water (no more!) Liquid detergent - this will help reduce the water repellent properties of the soil. About an hour later, remove the pot with a plant and give excess water drain. If the plant came to life (not all plants are restored after cutting), it will soon become juicy again. Consider - even when the earthen com will take its original size, a slight distance between it and the walls will remain. Fill this gap soil mixture.
If the excess water accumulated in the pot, it is no less dangerous for the plant than drought. However, in this case, not all is lost. Follow the edge of the pot about a solid surface and remove the pot from the Earth Koma. Usually, the earthen com is permeated with roots and retains the shape of a pot. Remove the damaged roots and wrap with an earth with a cloth or an old kitchen towel - it will absorb from the earthen koma of excess water. Perhaps you will need to change the towel several times.
Then wrap the earth com in the wrapping paper and leave it in it until drying, but do not overheat. When the earthen comes dried, plant a plant in a clean pot with a fresh earthy mixture.
Usually, flower pots Sell \u200b\u200bwith a pallet. The pallet is absolutely necessary - excess water flows into it. As a pallet, you can also use a saucer or a row suitable size from any material. It is only important that the pallet diameter is not less than the upper diameter of the pot. After watering, it is necessary to drain the excess water from the pallet.
Drainage - the word French. It means an artificial or natural removal of excess fluid, as a rule, from the soil. In detailed flower growing, drainage uses the water to be stood in a pot. For drainage, ceramic trekking, gravel, pebbles or major clayjit are suitable.
A large shards are put on the drain hole with a convex side up, or the handful of shards are smaller, then poured a layer of coarse sand and the plant is planted on top of this. Because at hand there is not always a shard, it is easier to arrange drainage from the ceramzit.
If the pot is a hole for water drain, then it is necessary to put 1 cm of large clay on the bottom. If there are no holes, the height of the clamzite layer should be at least 3-5 cm. In general, it should be about a quarter of the height of the tank.
Although traditionally plants are watered from the watering can, there is another way - watering from below. With this method, the so-called capillary effect works - water moves from more wet layers to more dry. When the soil is almost dried, place the pot into the pallet with water, and the moisture will begin to flow through the soil and roots of the plant.
Watering from below, you simply fill the pallet with water. If the water quickly leaves the pallet, pour a little more. About an hour after an hour, all the soil becomes wet, and its surface will be switched from moisture. When the plant dresses all the water required to it, pour water residues from the pallet. Watering from below is preferable for plants with sowed leaves or with a lush outlet of the leaves.
Plants that you water from below better satisfy their need for moisture. However, at the same time, you will have to change the soil mixture more often, because in the soil it will be rapidly accumulating an excess of mineral salts.
Watering from above seems more "natural" way of watering, because in nature the plants get moisture from rain. On the other hand, no source of moisture is important for the plant, but the result is wet soil. Therefore, it is not so important, you water or below you. Watering from above, make sure that the water does not fall on the leaves. Many plants have very gentle leaves and stalks, on which spots appear from water drops. In addition, water drops in the light focus the light as lenses, and even burns may form burns on dense and leathery leaves. Therefore, when watering from above, be sure to raise the leaves or move them to the side so that the water gets only on the soil.
Plants in suspended caspets are often hanging quite high, and watering them causes certain difficulties. For convenience, you can buy a special watering can, which will greatly facilitate watering such plants. It consists of a plastic bottle with a long tube, which is bent at the end. There is such a leak at all inexpensive.
Plants are preferable to pour up with soft water, i.e., with low salts. If in your area the water is soft, it is quite suitable for watering. Stilly plant species can be watered with water directly from under the tap, but it should not be abused: such plants are not so much. It is better that water is about a day stand. During this time, bubbles of gases will come out of it, especially chlorine and fluorine. Fluorine is very harmful to indoor plants. For watering, it is also possible to use rainwater, melting snow and well water.
Rigid water contains many soluble calcium and magnesium salts. It is very harmful to plants. The surface of the roots of plants is covered with a skin, which works as a kind of filter.
It skips and keeps inside only what plants need. When watering hard water, the filter "clogs" - remember the scale on the walls of the kettle!. As a result, the roots begin to suck water and nutrients badly. Plant begins hunger. In such a situation, the increase in irrigation leads only to the reinforcement of the roots and the death of the plant. A sign indicating rigid water is a yellowish-white flare on the soil surface, a pot on the walls, and sometimes on the plants stems.
To mitigate the rigid water, wood ash is added in the calculation of 3 g (1/2 teaspoon) per liter of water. You can also add acetic or oxalic acid to water. It is necessary to do this very carefully by checking the pH indicator until the desired value is set (5.5-6.5).
Filtered rigid water, i.e., water passed through a desalting installation or a osmotic filtering system does not hurt your plants. Special cartridges for filters and tablets are produced to mitigate hard water - water softeners (so-called pH-tablets). If the described methods of mitigating hard water for some reason are unavailable, you can water the plants, especially delicate, boiled water.
Water for watering should be room temperature. It is better to even take water warmer by 2-3 ° C. Do not neglect this rule. Remember that, watering with cold water thermal-loving tropical plants, you can damage their roots and leaves.
Yes, there are such ways. First, this is the so-called spray pot. Secondly, plant cultivation in the hydroponic system. In both cases, watering will require your attention once in 1 - 2 months, and in the intervals of the plant will be provided with water automatically. In addition, there are substrates, such as hydrogel and granulates, which are capable of holding water for a long time and give it plants as needed.
For normal growth and development, plants require water, although its amount varies significantly depending on the type of plant.
As a rule, water is absorbed by roots from the substrate, although plants-epiphytes absorb it to a greater extent than roots. The evaporation of moisture occurs with the entire above ground surface of the plant, mainly from the surface of the leaves. As a result, the sucking force is created, due to which the water is constantly absorbed from the soil. Therefore, the substrate should always contain enough moisture to ensure the needs of the plant.
But the roots are also needed air in the gaps between the substrate particles. If these voids are filled with water - roots rot and the plant will die.
therefore watering in houseplants - The question is delicate, since these plants have very little soil around the roots.
More plants die from the oveurgement of the soil than from any other reason.
The most necessary inventory for watering room plants - this is like with long naist Although many devices are invented to determine the need of plants in watering or implement it when the owner is not at home.
If you wear a sieve on the spout, you can wash off the dust from the leaves, for which you need to use soft water; Hard water leaves lime-based divorces on them.
Some indoor plants requiring severely moistened soil (for example, cipers), it is possible to place instead of watering pallet with water So that water reached the ground level. If the pallet is wide enough, then the constant evaporation of water from it will create a more humid atmosphere.
To increase humidity use manual sprayer .
Each plant has its own water regime requirements. Then how often watered indoor plants Depends on many factors. Frequency of watering - the value is non-permanent; It depends on the magnitude of the plant, the size of the pot, on the environmental conditions and especially from the time of year . Therefore, you need to be guided by your observations.
The deserts, swamps, plants from climate with variable moisturizing have been found in our rooms. Accordingly, they water them in different ways.
Often, seeing sipped leaves, begins to pour a plant plentifully. It's not entirely right, since there are many reasons for withering. Turn the soil in the pot: if it is dry, the plant really needs to be poured, but if the soil is wet, the wilt can be associated with excess irrigation. At the same time, the roots, not getting enough oxygen, gradually die, then put on with putrid bacteria, and the plant begins to hurt. Watering should be reduced. Give the roots to ride, let the plant relax from the water.
The wilment is also caused by pests or pathogenic microorganisms. And in this case, watering needs to be reduced.
Locking the leaf of houseplants can occur under the action of sunlight, on a first clear day after a long cloudy weather. And before sining on the wrong irrigation, other errors should exclude, giving a similar reaction of the room plant.
Do not turn watering into a regular rite, which is performed, for example, every Sunday. The correct period of time between the irrigation of each plant is its own - Balzamin, perhaps in the summer will require daily irrigation, and the cactus astrophitum in the winter does not need water at all.
Earth in pots should, as a rule, be in moderately humid state. It is impossible to allow sharp transitions from lack of moisture to its excess. This means that watering should be regular and uniform. The need of indoor plants in water is determined by their specific features: the structure of the elevated organs, the power of the root system, etc.
Gap between watering different plants varies depending on the season and changes in conditions of detention.
Araucaria
Plants with juicy, fleshy leaves (such as agawa, aloe, etc.) less need water than plants with large leaves, which sometimes need to water twice a day.
A recently rooted cutter requires much less water than an adult plant.
For bulbous plants, excess moisture is harmful. It is best to water them, directing the jet of water not on the bulb, and closer to the walls of the pot, or water from the pallet.
There are plants that are very sensitive to the lack of moisture, such as Araucaria. When her twigs begin to freeze, then no watering will no longer help.
In winter, in the period of rest, the growth of indoor plants slows down or stops, at this time the houseplants need less water and watered them much less often, sometimes up to 2 - 3 times a month, to avoid oveurgement of the soil.
On the contrary, in spring and summer, when the room plant has a period of growth and flowering, watering is needed more often (possibly from one to three times a week). With a slight tube, young shoots of the room plant, buds and flowers can suffer.
The need for water increases with increasing temperature and increasing light intensity. Plants in small pots and those that have not been transplanted for a long time, more frequent watering is required than plants in large containers or just transplanted. Plants in ceramic pots should be watering more often than in plastic; Plants in double pots require more rare irrigation.
There is a golden rule of watering houseplants - it is better to water less, but more often than less often and remember.
Watering indoor plants advise only soft water - rain, river or pond. The most familiar rainwater is. It is that the leaves of most plants are accustomed to such water, so she is best for spraying.
Rigid water (including well) containing various salts should be avoided.
The main element, the content of which must be considered when watering is calcium. It enters the water when it passes through the limestone, chalk, dolomite, plaster and other lime breeds. In this case, the water becomes rigid (soap foam is poorly formed in it). The rigidity of water is due to the formation of scale on the walls of kettles, plaque on the water taps and pipes.
Exactly the same plaque from low-soluble calcium salts is formed when watering plants with rigid water. Remember that not all plants can carry an increased calcium concentration. Of course, this element is necessary for the normal life of any plant. However, other fertilizers you make only from time to time, and calcium - with every watering.
Especially poorly carry hard water aroid, azaleas, orchids, fern, camellia.
Well tolerate irrigation with rigid water those room plants that grow on lime soils.
But, given the state of our ecology, pollution of natural reservoirs, as well as possible pollution of rainwater by industrial emissions (if you live in an industrial area or not far from it), watering room plants with tap water - not such a bad output.
However, before watering indoor plants, chlorinated water from the water pipeline must be put on to settle at least a day so that Chlorine will have time to evaporate.
Do not use the remaining water all to the last drop. If a precipitate was formed at the bottom, then for plants it will be better if it does not fall into the pot.
The temperature of water for watering houseplants should be at least not lower than room. This rule is especially important when watering tropical plants. Cacti It is recommended to water warmer water. Watering plant plants with cold water can cause root rotting, foaming buds and even the death of plants.
On the contrary, watering the warm water of indoor plants in the cold room is also not desirable, because This will lead to premature growth of the room plant.
In most plants during the growth period, the substrate should be maintained slightly moistened. Water the plant until the water starts penetrating through the drainage holes pot. Leave the plant for 10 to 30 minutes, and then drain the water that remains on the pallet. Do not repeatedly watering until the surface of the substrate is dry to the touch: the surface of the substrate dries first, and the substrate itself remains moistened inside.
In warm conditions, more frequent watering is required.
In winter, for most plants, the amount of moisture should be limited. During this period, growth slows down or completely stops, so the roots need less water, besides, they are more prone to loading in cool conditions.
Separate species require frequent irrigation, and it is impossible to dry out; And such a plant, like cipers, has adapted to the constant stay of the roots in the water.
Some plants, such as cacti, prefer dry conditions and need only in the insignificant amount of moisture.
There are several ways of watering houseplants. They depend on the dishes in which you landed plants, pallets and on the peculiarities of the plant itself.
The most traditional and easiest watering method is from above. Moisturizing the surface of the substrate is produced using watering can. The soil should not be blown up with a sharp jet, it is better to water in small portions so that the water is not stood, flooding the bases of the leaves and stems. It is undesirable to spray water on the leaves when watering. It is best to use a watering can with a long nose.
The appearance of water in the pallet is a sign that the plant is political enough. Wait for the entire excess moisture in the pallet, and then drain it. With this method of irrigation, mineral salts necessary for plant growth are quite quickly washed out of the pot. To compensate for this loss, regularly feed the plants, especially during the growth period.
However, many plants, such as cyclamen, do not like when water splashes fall on their leaves, which causes them to rot. In this case, the lower irrigation is used. With lower irrigation, water is poured directly into the pallet. Due to the capillary forces, water rises up the substrate and evaporates from the surface. After 30 minutes, the excess water needs to be drained from the pallet.
The lower irrigation can be applied in the event that the earth is strongly served between the wall of the pot and the soil formed a gap. With the upper watering, water quickly flows into the pallet, not moisturizing the substrate, and only lowering the pot into the water, achieve good wetting.
The lower watering compared to the top has the opposite drawback: salt accumulated in the pot in excessive amounts. One of the signs of this is the formation of a lime crust on the soil. This crust can serve as a source of infection for plants, in addition, the roots of many plants from excess salts are damaged. The crust is removed from the upper layer of Earth 1.5 - 2 cm and plug the new substrate into the pot.
With a strong drying of the substrate, place the pot to the edges into the container with water and leave until complete moisture, but do not allow water to run through through the top of the pot. Before putting the plant on the pallet, give water as follows.
"Bathing" pots in water are watered with SENPOLIA, cyclamen and all other plants, poorly carrying water from entering the leaves.
With lower irrigation, do not forget to feed the plants. However, shortly before the feeding, rinse the earthen car watering from above or multiple lowering the pot into the water.
Indoor plants leave dry for several days, weeks, months. Rare irrigation is suitable for cactus and succulents, as well as leaf falling tuber and white room plants, having a rest period (crying, gloxia, hypipers, caladium).
1. Before irrigating, let the substrate on half - two thirds dry. Check the substrate moisturize with a stick.
2. Water the plant from above - water should be absorbed into the substrate, but do not flow into the pallet.
3. Check the substrate moisturizing with a stick, add some more water if necessary.
Indoor plants watered not immediately after grazing the earth coma, and after one or two days, that is, when the land in the pot will dry.
Moderate irrigation is used to houseplants with fleshy or high-heaved stems and leaves (Pappermia, Columbus), with thick roots and rhizomes (palm trees, drazes, aspidar, aroid), as well as with aquifers on roots (asparagus, chlorophytum, marant) and bulbous .
For some species of indoor plants, easy drying is a prerequisite in resting period, as it stimulates the bookmark and ripening of floral kidney (Siegocactus, Clivia).
1. Before watering, give the upper 13 mm substrate to dry. Check Moisturizing to the touch.
2. Water the plant from above until the entire substrate is fully moistened, but not wet.
3. If a little water flowed into the pallet, drain it and stop watering. Do not allow the plant to stood in water.
Olga Gorbatova
Labor In Nature "Training Children Watering Houseplants" (Junior Group)
Software tasks:
Learn children Practical skills policy
Introduce me to children with the structure of the employment process
Educate plants as living beings, to raise the desire to regret plant, effectively help him
Wordwork:
Plant, watering can, pot with pallet, stem, leaves, root, water, Wet land, beautiful, healthy.
Equipment:
Models labor process, apron, glue, watering can, flower in a pot with pallet
Aprons, skols, watering cans, flowers in pots with pallet
Preliminary work:
Observation by plant.(acquaintance with the peculiarities of the appearance, the structure, monitoring plant. in favorable and unfavorable states (lack of moisture, monitoring labor tutor by watering plants Corner of nature(Acquaintance with the model labor process)
Organization children:
Children stand at the tables arranged by the letter
Input part
Children, a bear came to us and brought a flower with him.
Bear greets with children.
Guys, let's ask the teddy bear, why is it so sad, not fun?
Bear says he is sad because his favorite the plant was so beautifullike in the picture (shows the model, va now has become so (Shows plant) . Bear says that he does not know what happened to him, sorry for him plantThat is why he is sad.
And you feel sorry for Mishkino plant? (yes, sorry)
Let's regret the bear with you, tell him gentle words, do not cry a bear, we will help you, and you will again be cheerful, joyful.
Children, why Mishkino the plant was the same? What did he forget to do?
Let's listen to what asks plant.
Plant requeststo it polilli And then it will recover.
Guys, Bear says he does not know how water and nowprobably his plant will die.
Children, can we help Mishke? (can)
How? (We can teach it water plant)
Setting the goal:
Let's teach the bear correctly water plant
Children we want plant How did you feel? (Okay)
So that it makes it? (with children pronounces; plant It was good that the leaves look up to the stalk look up to the earth to be wet). Not to forget about it, put the picture (model - plant in good condition)
What plant now? (Examination is conducted plants: Leaves, stem, land). So as not to forget what plant now, We will put the picture (model - plant in unfavorable). Plant. It is necessary to help more. To do this, you need to choose the right tools.
Children, Bear says he knows what to do.
Look, he brought watering can. Look, Watering can have a handle so that we can keep a watering can, the watering can have a spout, the water is poured out of the nose, there is a hole, it is poured into this hole in a watering can.
Children, what is missing in Mishkina? (water)
Which watering can be taken? So as not to forget that you need to take watering can, put the picture (model - funds labor: Water watering can)
And now what will we do?
Children, Bear says he remembered how water And she wants to show us (the bear holds a watering can with one hand, pouring water on the leaves, under the root, wants to pour all the water from the watering can.
Bear, you are not right watering the plant. It is impossible to pour water to the root and on the leaves, and immediately pour all the water from the watering. Plant may die.
Look, children like I will water plant. Before you start work, I put on the apron, so as not to wet and not stain clothes. The flower stands in a pot with a pallet on the glue. I take a watering can with a carriage, I will put the spout to the edge of the pot, I'll slowly go, gradually the water will not appear on the pallet.
So as not to forget that plant need to pour put pictures(model labor actions) .
Kids plantif we are correctly pollying it? ( plant It will be in good condition, the stem will be smooth, lowered sluggish leaves will also rise, there will be even, elastic.)
So as not to forget to put a picture (model - plant in good condition)
Fixing
Before starting work, what will we do? (put on Apron)
How will we hold a watering can? (nose at the edge of the pot)
How much will we pour water? (While water does not appear on the pallet)
What will be plant after irrigation? (plant will be in good condition)
Independent work
Teddy bear, yours we helped the plantNow it will recover.
Some plants in our group also need to help, polick themso that they do not become like in the picture (show the model - plant in unfavorable)
Children want to help?
Then you need to find plantswho want to drink. Here's like in the picture (a model is demonstrated plants in unfavorable)
Mishka, together with the educator watching child laborI ask clarifying questions. When difficulties I come to the help.
I remind you to children that it's time to finish work and what you need to bring workplace in order.
Didactic game "Where did the bear hide?"
Didactic task: clarify the name of the acquaintances plants
Gaming Rule: Find Mishka
Gaming action: Finding a game character and calling plantsbeyond which he hidden
Children, soon our plants will become the same beautiful, healthy, as in the picture (show the model - plant in a favorable)
They will feel good. Today we made two kind cases with you: helped plants and taught a bear to water his plant.
Bear tells you all thanks, now His plant Will feel good. He is very happy about it. Now Bear learned water plantAnd it will always take care of him so that it is in good condition and pleased with his beauty.
Children, and you are glad that they helped plants? (emotionally divided joy children)
Without watering the garden and the garden, fruit trees and other cultures will not give the harvest to which you expected, and in the arid seasons they will die at all. There are several ways to irrigate the garden and the garden, and before resorting to one of them or use a whole complex, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules of watering.
Watering the garden in summer, in the spring and autumn is a difficult, but the necessary thing. Therefore, watering plants must be simple in manufacturing, reliable and safe for maintenance.
The small spare nozzles manufactured by the industry will greatly facilitate labor during watering. The nozzle is inserted into the hose, which is vertically fixed with a wire or a hometomb on a pole, stuck in the ground. When applying to the hose, water is sprayed, moisturizing the soil. Having finished watering one site, the hose with the sixth rearranged to another place, and the process is repeated.
You can conduct a pipeline with vertical pipes, securing on each by the nozzle, and, opening the valve, water the entire plot immediately. Often used pipe irrigation. In this case, pipes with holes are placed in the garden. The water supplied under pressure through the holes falls into the furrows, digging to a depth of 20-30 cm near the plants at a distance of 0.5-1 m from their trunks (depending on age).
For the need for water, fruit cultures can be positioned as follows (from more demanding less demanding): quince, apple tree, pear, plum, walnut, cherry, cherry, peach, apricot.
Watering fruit gardens produced taking into account the phases of vegetation fruit plants. Before the start of flowering, there is usually enough moisture accumulated soil in the winter.
During the flowering period, the gardens are watered if the soil is dry, and bloom is abundant.
In June - July, the garden usually requires watering if the amount of precipitation is not enough. Water during this period is required for the growth of shoots, fruits and bookmarks of fruit kidney.
Fruit gardens during the summer are recommended to water in case of insufficient rainfall five or six times in southern areas and 3-4 times - in the north, and young plantings are 3- 4 times more often. With a high yield and sufficient fertilizer, the number of irrigations should be increased.
Garden irrigation standards depend on the age of plants, the composition of the soil, the amount of harvest, etc. It is believed that for the garden of the garden 5 acres (0.05 hectares) is required on average 15-30 m3 of water by one watering. 1-2 days after each watering, soil loosen is necessary. In the case of soil mulch, the number of irrigation can be reduced twice.
The amount of water available for plants depends on many factors. Including from the type and depth of the soil, the depth of the root system, the speed of water loss during evaporation, on temperature and the rate of moisture flow into the soil.
The rate of extracting water from the soil is the function of the concentration of roots. The deeper the root system, the speed below. More than 40% of the water is extracted from the upper root layer.
Water incoming to the soil moves with the speed with which field moisture is created. Water movement in the soil from bottom to top is carried out by capillary forces. Water loss on evaporation affects only the upper soil layers. In a period of long droughle, it is easy to recognize plants with a finely occurring root system.
The correct time of watering is especially important for the development of vegetable crops and obtaining the maximum harvest. In addition, it is necessary to observe and irrigation norms. For example, to penetrate water to the root system, it is not enough to simply moisten the surface of the soil. According to the observations of specialists, the 3-centimeter layer of water penetrates into the soil to a depth of up to 25 cm. To rush into such a depth of a plot of 0.5 hectares, 130,000 liters of water should be spent. During prolonged drought, frequent minor favors do not benefit by plants, as water does not reach the main volume of the root system, and a solid crust appears on Earth. At the same time, planting side roots are formed in plants, which also suffer from tightened dry weather.
Sand soils Dry much faster than clay and require more frequent irrigation. To find out how things are concluded with soil moisture on the site, you need to dig a scoop with a depth of 20-30 cm. If the soil at such a depth is slightly wet or dry, watering should be immediately made.
Most of the moisture requires vegetable cultures during intensive growth, that is, from the end of the spring until the middle of the summer, when the development of plants is determined precisely by water. In late summer, excess moisture may harm some cultures. For example, melons and watermelons are not watered during the ripening period. Tomatoes can also crack from excessive moisture, without having to redden. But still, for most plants, the irrigation norms are determined at the rate of 10-15 l / m2 per week. Organization rates of decorative crops are close to norms for vegetable.
The main amount of water is absorbed by plants in spring and summer. Special attention should be paid to watering when planting trees and shrubs so that the soil tightly fitted their roots. Plants in the open soil are susceptible to natural dried in the influence of sunlight, although they get enough moisture with winter sediments. Interestingly, a layer of rainwater in 1 mm gives per 1 hectare of 10 m3, that is, 10 tons. Snow plates with a thickness of 40 cm - 1000 tons of water by 1 hectare, or 100 liters per 1 m2. It is necessary to ensure that the soil near the walls, fences and under the trees fully received moisture, as there are certain difficulties when watering in these places. Plants in pots and ads are susceptible to rapid drying and in the summer need regular irrigation.
The lack of water adversely affects the growth, fruiting and winter hardiness of fruit trees. But even more detached excess of moisture for them. In the overwhelmed soil, gas exchange decreases, life microbiological processes slow down, the temperature in the habitat of the root system is reduced, which can lead to the dying of the root parts. For fruit trees, frequent watering is harmful when only the surface layer of the soil is moistened. It brings only harm because it hinders the free air exchange. Watering fruit trees should be carried out on a depth of 60-80 cm. To determine the soil availability with water, it is necessary to dig a scoop to a depth of 40-50 cm, take a lounge of the earth and squeeze tightly. If it keeps his form, it means that the humidity is normal, and if the land on the palm crumbles, watering is required. True, for the sand soil, such a way is less indicative.
Before it is properly watering fruit trees, you need to determine the time when you do. Under one of the trees when landing at a depth of 1-1.5 m, a plastic vessel filled with half gravel, and then the soil from the surface of the site. The vessel with the hose is connected to another, buried nearby at the same level. Above it in the ground, the neck is plugged with a bottle of 20 liters. Through the tube, 2 tubes are passed through the tube: atmospheric air flows into one, and the other is lowered into the second plastic vessel.
As the moisture tree is consumed, its number in the first vessel will decrease, and the water from the bottle will flow into the second vessel. To know exactly when to start watering, on the wall of the bottle make a marker of a critical level. The soil layer in the garden should be moistened to the depth of the life of the root system, for which 600-1000 m3 of water should be spent on 1 hectare. If we talk about watering each tree, then for a 3-5-year instance, one-time irrigation should be 5-8 buckets, for 7-10-year-old - 12-15 buckets, and older trees are watered even more. For example, with the diameter of the Krona of the Apple tree 3 M, it takes 20 buckets of water during the first spring watering and 30-35 buckets during the second.
And how to water the garden, taking into account the composition of the soil? With light sandy soils, more frequent watering are needed, but with a lower water consumption rate; With severe clay - rare, but abundant.
Here you can watch the video watering video with the most common method:
With a lack of moisture in the soil, the growth of grown crops is suspended, water evaporation occurs through the leaves, from the surface of the soil around the plants.
On a hot day, the evaporation of moisture can reach 5 l / m2. But this does not mean that watering vegetable cultures need daily, excessive moisturizing, as already mentioned, can also slow down growth.
For the germination of seeds and the normal development of seedlings, there is a lot of water, but how much exactly it depends not only on weather conditions, but also from the type of culture. Sheet vegetables that have to eat leaves or shoots (color and white cabbage), react well to frequent regular watering, starting from the seeding phase. The optimal weekly norm in the arid periods in vegetation is 10-15 l / m2.
In such cultures, such as peas and beans, excess soil moisturizing at the beginning of the growing season can cause increased growth of leaves to the detriment of the development of fruits. In this case, in the phase of germs there is no need for artificial irrigation (except for drought period), but during flowering and the beginning of the formation of fruits is required by watering 1-2 times a week at water flow 5-10 l / m2.
According to the rules of watering plants in the garden, irrigation of vegetable crops is best carried out in the evening or morning clock. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the soil moistened to a greater depth.
When watering vegetable crops, the splashing of water on the surface often leads to excessive evaporation, and the moisture does not even have time to go to the root system of plants.
At the same time, evening irrigation can lead to the development of some diseases of vegetable crops, as the soil may not dry until the morning.
In order to avoid the need for constant polishes, moisture-holding activities should be carried out.
On those soils that weakly hold water, deep people is recommended, which contributes to an increase in the power of the rooted layer and, as a result, water reserves available to plants. The most effective way to preserve moisture is to enter the soil of manure, compost, peat, humus. All organic substances should be thoroughly mixed with soil.
In order to save moisture, it is important to destroy weeds in time, at the very beginning of their growth. The width of the rod and the distance between the plants in the row also matter to determine the irrigation rate. Experimental means optimal food areas of various vegetable plants.
To reduce water losses from the soil surface, mulching of crops with compost or overwhelming leaves. Mulching material must be laid after rain or watering.
To avoid sealing the top layer of the Earth, it is necessary to braid well before mulching. In addition, mulch prevents the growth of weeds. And if they appear, they are easier to pull them out of a loose substrate.
To germinate seeds, a certain amount of water is necessary, so the soil when crops should be wet. It is usually watered in 1-2 days. In this case, a favorable water-air mode is formed in the soil to appear germs. You can hide the grooves and in front of the sowing, consuming 0.6-0.8 liters per messenger meter.
After planting seedlings at a permanent place it is necessary to water. Before rooting, water consumption per 1 plant should be 0.1 liters per day, provided a thoroughly altered soil.
For the right watering of vegetable crops, it is best to moisten not all the beds, but only the roasting zone. On the large squares Such watering is uneconomical, in this case it is recommended to use sprinklers and exercise soil moisturizing daily, although it is fraught with water overrun.
There are 4 main types of watering plants: superficial, sprinkle, rode and jet. With surface irrigation, water is distributed over the soil surface.
When sprinkling under pressure, water sprinkles in the form of rain. With under-irrigation, it enters the root system of the plant, passing over the impermeable soil layer. With the ventilation of irrigation, water rises under pressure on thin pipes to individual plants.
The simplest view of watering of the garden - with the help of watering. This garden tool is available on sale in several types of various volumes, but it is advisable to use a 10-liter watering can on the site. Wheels of larger volume are heavy in use, and smaller - require frequent filling.
The leaks should have a comfortable handle and long spout. Most of the slabs are equipped with low-hole nozzles or grid, which are used when watering seeds and shoots. It is starting on the one hand, carry the watering can be thrown over the seedlings, trying to maintain a constant water pressure.
It is known for all gardeners such a method of moisturizing the soil on the site, as watering from the hose, which is connected to the water tap or drain crane from the tank. When using the hose, it is necessary to ensure that the water jet so that the soil does not blur and exposed the roots of the plants.
How to water the plants in the garden with the help of the hose? When watering vegetable crops, it is necessary to direct the hose on the aisle to ensure the rapid flow of water to the root system of plants. The hose should not be twisted on bends, then it will save elasticity for several years. The most durable are hoses with a nylon braid.
Many use for watering hoses equipped with holes done at different angles.
Such perforated hoses are stored across the irrigated area and for uniform moisturizing the soil constantly transfer them from place to place.
A rain installation can be connected to the hose. The spinner of the oscillatory type consists of a perforated tube, swinging from side to the side and distributing water along a rectangular or square bed. The sprinkler of the rotational type sprays water through one or more nozzles that make circular motions under water pressure. Rainers of both types are installed in parks, on lawns and country and household plots. At the same time, the uniformity of irrigation is determined by the amount of water falling into empty banks, placed around the perimeter or circumference of the site.
For the gradual distribution of water supplied to flower beds, greenhouses and plants in pots, long tubes with fine holes for drip irrigation are used.
The listed methods relate mainly to watering vegetable and decorative cultures.
In the technique of irrigation of the fruiting garden, there are some features. If the garden is big, the trees are watered along the furrows in the aisle.
At the same time, the distances between the furrows on the pulmonary soils should be 70-80 cm, on heavy (clay) - up to 1.5 m. The depth of furrow - 20-25 cm, width - 0.5 m.
But in the gardens in the country and household plots, as a rule, watering trees are traditionally carried out in the rustic circles, or rather, in the ditches, dug around their circumference. After watering, the circular ditches fall asleep the earth. It is impossible to water the trees in the deepening of the priority circle, divert in the form of a funnel. In this case, the water does not reach the terminal roots of the tree, and watering closer to the strain has no practical benefit.
For watering the garden very effectively use subsorative irrigation. For example, on each square meter of the area of \u200b\u200bthe priority circle, the soil brown is drilled by a well with a diameter of 10-12 cm and a depth of 50-60 cm, which is clogged with rubble, broken brick or coarse sand.
Trees are watered through such wells, liquid fertilizers are made through them. At the same time, a crust is formed on the surface, and all nutrients and precious moisture penetrate immediately into the deep layers of the soil. Such holes can quickly perform their functions.
A simpler plant irrigation method - penetration of wells for watering with a scrap, followed by falling asleep their land.
Often, gardeners watered trees with the help of a hose by throwing it into the rolling circle and doing other things. After a while, the hose is moved to a rolling circle of another tree, without taking into account the amount of water entered the roots of the first tree. And it is completely easy to determine the norm. You just need to know how many buckets are necessary for irrigating a tree and the time of filling one bucket from the hose. Then it will be possible to judge the amount of water entered the rolling circle.
Terms of watering for the garden also have their own peculiarity. The most optimal for fruit trees in the central regions of Russia is the following:
When choosing a source of economic and drinking water supply of a dacha or a manor house, local conditions should be taken into account that determine the choice of one or another water intake system. This requires calculation of water consumption standards, which depend not only on the level of improvement of the house, but also from the presence of a garden, garden, utility farm. It is necessary to take into account the considerable consumption of water for economic needs.
Very often, water into the centralized water supply is supplied according to a specific schedule. Therefore, it is recommended to have a guaranteed stock on the site. In most cases, when organizing a garden irrigation system, underground sources are preferred.
For watering water, it is sometimes possible to organize a special water supply with water supply through land pipes or special watercourses.
The garden and the garden can be easily water with rainwater, which should be collected and stored in open tanks installed in the locations of it from the roofs.
In places with shallow groundwater sitting, fine-tube wells are arranged for one or more of the plots adjacent to each other.
In order for fruit and berry cultures in time and high-quality moisture, the gardener needs to know and apply several types of irrigation. Each of these species is suitable for a certain time of the year and plays a special role in the development of the plant and its protection against unfavorable conditions.
Summer Polish. (Watering in the summer, seasonal watering) is also called conventional, or vegetative, regular irrigation. It is carried out not only in the summer months, but during the entire active growing season (since the end of spring frosts before the beginning of the first autumn frosts). Trees and shrubs begin to need to irrigate immediately after the onset of warm sunny days, when their kidneys and flowers bloom, come to the shoots. But with a sufficient snow cover thickness in the first days of a warm period, irrigated sometimes does not need: Plants feed on moisture from melting snow.
Refreshing watering, or sprinkling, spend in hot weather. This type of irrigation is not allowed for all cultures. In especially hot hours, it should not be sprinkled. This type of irrigation increases the humidity of the air and slightly reduces its temperature. Spring is a fine watering, so it is necessary to use a sprayer, sprayer or a special nozzle on the hose, just watering plants on top of water flows.
Featuring watering - This is watering a special purpose, the method of introducing liquid fertilizers into the soil. But simultaneously with the preparation of nutrient elements with such watering, a tree or shrub takes and the moisture you need.
Waterproof (coded) watering is used in autumn. It is necessary to create moisture in the soil. In the fall, after the end of fruiting, trees and shrubs begin to actively develop their absorbing roots, accumulate nutrients in the tissues. Although the active suction area of \u200b\u200bthe roots can almost absent, for all listed processes, constant optimal moisture content is necessary. Summer layer of soil, in which the roots of plants are located, significantly dries, so before the start of preparation for the cold period of the year, this layer needs quality moisture. Roots of plants, by the period of fruiting beginners to experience the deficit of moisture, also need waterproof irrigation. In this case, the mechanical absorption of moisture begins to prevail (through the pores in the roots of roots), and not physiological (with the help of active absorbing roots).
After properly spent the autumn floors of the soil trees, it becomes more resistant to cooling, slowly gives it heat (i.e., after irrigations, its heat capacity increases). The plants themselves with their kidneys are better to reduce temperatures.
Waterproof irrigations begin with the second half of September and finish at the beginning of October. These watering should not depend on rains or missing during the specified period: even abundant shower cannot compensate for the lack of moisture in the root of the soil, so this type of irrigation must be carried out with any weather.
Soil with autumn watering the garden moisturizes on a sufficiently large depth (more than during summer irrigation). For each plant, there are recommendations for conducting waterproof irrigation, including the depth of soil misses and the depth of the ring groove for watering. The fact is that the soil should be moistened to a depth of 90-100 cm, and it is impossible to achieve this in conventional surface irrigation, so ring grooves are needed (the exception can only be sandy soils, even on light loams need grooves). In different plants, the root system is located on a different distance from the soil surface, therefore the depth of the grooves, for example, for apple and cherries, will not be the same. Grooves are digging around the trunk at a distance of 60-80 cm from each other.
How to water the trees in the garden in accordance with the norms? The irrigation rate is determined in liters for each tree, depending on its breed and age (fruitless or young). The norm can be reduced if, in the main vegetation period, seasonal watering was carried out regularly and abundantly. At the same time, the state of the soil first check the shovel. Unlike summer irrigation, the earth is missed not only to the depth of the placement of thin roots, but a little deeper (about 10 cm). After watering, the grooves fill (if necessary) fertilizer and storm with hoe.
Waterproofing watering of trees is carried out by uniform moisturizing the soil in the rolling collar, pouring water into specially done in the rich circle of the well or in a furrow, which is swam around the rolling circle. The main thing is that the soil is impregnated with water to a greater depth, to the root location zone.
At the same time, it should be careful: it is impossible to moisten the soil, i.e., water during the sprinkle should go in small quantities and through a very fine grid of the sprayer. It is also important to know that the most dangerous impact on the plants of night frosts (up to 5 am).
Anti-crossed watering (watering before frosts) in early spring and late autumn to protect the vegetative parts of plants from frosts. Fruit and berry cultures are especially affected by frost damage during flowering and formation of the margins: the harvest may not just decrease, but completely die.
Water has a large heat capacity, with a decrease in temperatures, it highlights heat, increasing the thermal conductivity of the soil after moistening the latter. In the spring, the messengers are less affected by the plants, if the soil under them is moistened to measure. In autumn, the danger decreases due to the heat supply associated with the heat capacity of water. Water for watering plants in front of frosts at low air temperatures (but not negative - in this case, watering contraindicated) is often warmer than soil and air, i.e. itself is a source of heat. In this case, the leaves can be completely wetted using a sprayer or spray nozzle on the hose. But this event is effective only in the absence of a threat of severe frosts. Anti-crossed watering with spruce is carried out at a temperature not colder -2 ... -7 ° C. Behind the temperature are observed at the level of the layout of flowers and kidney plants. Under negative temperatures, the sprinkled suggests on the leaves of the ice crust, under which the temperature does not fall below 0 ° C, due to which the vegetative parts of the plant are not freezed.
Water in front of frosts begin approximately two days before the onset of cold weather. For spontaneous, sprayers are used, as a rule, on automatic watering devices. The fact is that during the freezing, the sprinkle cannot be interrupted by more than 20-40 minutes, otherwise the air temperature can dramatically decrease, and the reverse (negative) effect will come from the procedure. Therefore, the sprinkle should be continuous, in extreme cases it can be carried out with breaks with a few minutes.
There are three methods of watering the garden: superficial, watering the method of sprinkling and subsorative irrigation.
There are several surface watering methods, not all of them are suitable for the garden.
1. Surface watering by furrows. It is carried out as follows. In the aisles, the furrows are made of 20-30 cm wide with a small slope, in which water is supplied from the watering hose. At the end of watering after a while, the furrows close up.
2. Surface watering through the bowls. When applying this method, a hole in the form of a bowl is digging under the crown of fruit tree. The size of the bowl, i.e. its diameter depends on the age of the tree, landing density, but it should not be less projection of the crown of the tree itself. At the edges of the finished well, an earthen roller roller with a height of 20-25 cm. Bowls under neighboring trees are combined with a common groove. This groove serves water from a watering hose, and already in the groove water enters the wells.
When using watering by sprinkling moisture, not only in the soil, but also in the air. Water, falling into the soil through the air, is enriched with oxygen, carbon dioxide and nitrogen compounds. The difference between the watering system of sprinkling from the surface irrigation is that with surface irrigation, careful layout and leveling of the land plot are needed. This is due to the fact that water during irrigation does not move along the surface of the soil, thereby preventing its fertile layer.
Before watering the garden, the soil is necessarily frustrated, and if there is a need, fertilizers contribute. For such irrigation, special devices will be required - spinners. These devices can be fan, impulse or as a gun. They spray water into different heights and in different direction, and the height, direction and even the size of the drops can be adjusted. Devices are installed under the crowns of shrubs and fruit trees and is used for watering the surface layer.
Watering the garden, lawns and flower clump spend only in the evening when there is no bright sun. If you do this day, the leaves of the plants will receive burns, since the droplets of water act as collective lenses and focus the sun's rays.
There are several ways to irrigate the garden, the most popular of them are enclosed and drip.
Breaking irrigation. When using this method of irrigation, a system of potary, asbated or polyethylene pipes is used, through the holes of which water under pressure is supplied to the soil. Sometimes with such irrigation of the fruit garden, along with water to the roots of the plant, fertilizers are served.
The main disadvantage of this method is its high cost. Laying pipes around the plot is a very laborious thing, and should be carried out at the stage of planning a garden and construction. In addition, the quality of watering water often leaves much to be desired, so the pipes serve relatively shortly, quickly clogged and styled.
Drip irrigation. This is a kind of pine irrigation. This method is very convenient and easy to execute. Drip irrigation is conducted on the system plastic pipes Small diameter. Under one fruit tree or berry shrub Place 2-3 drops at a depth of 30-35 cm. The advantage of this type of irrigation is that several times the water consumption is reduced, and there is also the ability to constantly maintain the necessary soil moisture. In addition, fertilizers can be made together with water supply.
Rational watering of plants according to the rules includes several mandatory components.
1. Optimal temperature Watering water.
2. Watering method. Possible watering under the root and together with the leaves, as well as sprinkle (watering through the sprayer from above). Sprinkling can be not only superficial (with wetting of leaves and branches), but also in prikorev - in this case, only the soil in a rigous circle is wetted, but with the help of rainy nozzles, so that the soil is not working and washing the nutrients from it because of the large water pressure. For different plants, these types of watering in different ratios are required during different periods of the year.
3. Watering time. Usually, watering is carried out in the morning or in the evening. In the hot period of the day during the sprinkle, burns may appear on the leaves, and watering it is better to spend better at the very midst of the day.
4. The amount of water. The irrigation norms usually indicate either a unit area or one plant. For trees and large shrubs, the last option is more characteristic.
5. But there are also general rules of irrigationapplicable to all fruit-berry crops.
6. The humidity of the soil must be optimal. The overwhelmed soil is a serious problem, as well as soil drying, because it can reduce the stability of the plant to pests and diseases, worsen soil aeration. A lump of optimally moistened soil should shrink in hand without selection of water and without scattering. This indicator is suitable even for sandy soils.
7. From the mechanical composition of the soil depends the speed of absorption with soil moisture. Heavy loams are impregnated with water slower, so it is better to moisten the soil not too strong water pressure (for longer time), but using more of its number. Sand soils should be watered more often, since the moisture is not able to linger for a long time in such soils, and the soil dries faster. Observing this Rule Watering Rule, clay soils are pouring less frequently, so as not to cause the convergence, because moisture is able to "stand" enough.
8. Watering of rustic plants should be rare and abundant. Frequent watering "on a slightly" are more harmful than helpful. Watering is carried out, as a rule, to the depth of the occurrence of active (thin, absorbing) roots of the plant.
9. The average rate of one-time irrigation for the age of age is 3-5 years It is 50-80 liters per plant or more. The same indicator for the age of 7-10 years is 120-150 liters.
10. Fruit trees and shrubs We need more abundant irrigation, rather than young plants of the same species.
11. Any watering under the root (not only moisture profitable) can be carried out in annular grooves. After irrigation in the groove, if necessary, fertilizers are poured, fall asleep with their soil or mulching material.
12. Do not water trees and shrubs in the rolling funnel, Moreover, pour water on the root cervix. With this irrigation, the moisture will flow in excess to the main (rod) root and in a disadvantage - to the peripheral (active) roots. But it is the peripheral roots that are absorbing, i.e., absorbing the bulk of the beneficial substances and moisture for the plant. Therefore, the main place for irrigation is a circle, which is a projection of the crown to the surface of the Earth, as well as the soil near this circle. In general, watering in the rolling circle should be uniform, without "dry" places.
13. Unusual, but effective watering method - With the help of a 10-12 cm diameter of 10-12 cm in advance and necessary for watering a certain culture of depth. The wells are done by the brown and fill in pebbles, rubble, brick fighting or large sand. On m2 of the area of \u200b\u200bthe priority circle, one well is arranged.
14. In the usual watering with the hose It is difficult to determine the volume of water that fell into the soil. It is possible before the start of such irrigation, turning on the water to a certain pressure, to calculate, for what time the water with such pressure will fill the container, for example, with a volume of 10 liters. Then, by simple calculations, it is easy to find out how long it will be necessary for watering a particular plant in this way.
15. Seasonal watering is necessary, as a rule, in the following periods of vegetation of trees and shrubs: in front of the spring blown of the kidneys; 2-3 weeks after the end of flowering; 2-3 weeks before harvest. The rest of the time, watering is carried out as necessary and for special purposes (moisture-proof, anti-frozen, refreshing, helpful).
16. Tree or shrubs Usually determine approximately by the diameter of the crown (a little wider projection of the crown on the surface of the Earth). This indicator is useful to know to calculate irrigation.
17. If during watering a young church or shrub Surface roots were exposed, they should be filled with damp soil immediately.
To understand whether it is necessary to irrigate this or another plant, it is necessary to estimate the state of the soil next to it. Its humidity should be determined not by the upper layer, which is most often dry (this is due to the fact that from the soil surface, most of the moisture is lost during evaporation). Attention should be paid to the active layer of soil, where the root plant of the plant is located. If we talk about fruit trees, such as an apple tree, a pear, this layer is at a depth of 90-120 cm, in cherry, plums and apricots - at a depth of 80 cm, in berry crops - 50 cm.
To estimate the moisture content of the soil along the periphery of the crown of the plant dig a small well depth to 1 m, from the walls of the holes take the soil lumps and squeeze in the hand. If the lump is formed and is not divided when dropping from a height of 1.5 m, it means that the soil moisture is about 70%. If the earth lumps crumbles, it means that the soil needs watering.
The optimal level of soil humidity is considered to be 75-80%. In order to keep moisture in the soil as long as possible, after irrigation, it looser and make a peat or overwhelming sawdust.
And a few more advice, how to water the garden to provide abundant flowering and good yield.
First Polish. We need plants in the spring when the kidneys did not dismiss. During this period, the phase of its active growth begins, and it really needs moisture.
The second polyv It should be carried out approximately 15-20 days after the end of the vegetation period of trees and shrubs, since it is at this time that there is an increase in barring, and if the soil is too dry, the falling can happen only to the fruit.
Third watering spend 15-20 days before the removal of fruits from trees and shrubs.
If the third watering is carried out immediately before harvesting, it can lead to the falling and cracking of fruits.
And the last watering is carried out in late autumn, when an active leaffall begins. It is also called moisture profitable.
Early varieties of apple and pear trees require less water than the late.
If we carry out excessive watering of pear trees, they may suffer from excess moisture.
Konefront rocks of fruit trees (apricot, cherry, plum) should be watering less frequently than seed (apple tree, pear).
Expecting a rich harvest from certain trees or shrubs, watering exactly these trees or shrubs special attention should be paid. They will need more water than trees with less yields or those resting from fruiting.
Rain watering helps save trees with blurred kidneys from frosts that often happen in spring. Swuffled kidneys and floral buds are the most vulnerable parts of fruit-berry trees, and they must be protected from the effects of lower and negative temperatures to preserve the crop.
Young fruit trees need to water less than adults. This is especially true of the second half of summer, since excessive moisture provokes additional growth of shoots that will be freezed during the winter.
In addition to the use of fertilizers and accumulating in the soil of the garden of salts, which harms the growth of most plants, carrying watering irrigation. A large amount of water is flushed with salt dissolved in it to a large depth, cleaning the soil layer in which the bulk of the roots is located. For flushing irrigation for every 10 m2, the soils are consumed in 2000-8000 liters of water. The need for it may occur if plants have been used for pasting for a long time in large quantities mineral fertilizersNatural organic fertilizers (compost, manure, peat) do not cause such an effect, although they also need to be dosed.
The heat and drought this year overtake us unusual early. Just May, and the weather is quite July. And as in the midst of summer, the plants require water. Usually we rain in the spring - not rare, and the nights are cold, with dears, so there are many times about irrigation.
Although, to be honest, I just didn't think so much: everything is intuitive. And then I decided to still figure out, how to water the garden: how much water you need to each vegetable; How to determine whether the plant suffers from thirst; What periodicity to water the beds, and so on. It turned out - I decided not in vain: I learned a lot for myself. I will share - maybe you will come in handy.
Cabbage is perhaps the biggest waterfront of all vegetable crops. When it ties COOSHANS, irrigation rate is at least 30 liters per 1 sq. M. If the cabbage suffers from thirst, pests are instantly attacked - cross-color flea and cabbage flies. On the leaves of the plant may appear a pinkish-nasy flask.
Cabbage, it turns out, it is necessary to water differently, depending on the weather: if it is hot and dry, it is used to sprinkle, and the root is closed in cool weather. At the same time, the soil should get into the depth of at least 40 cm.
Late cabbage varieties are recommended to water daily, and early - every 2-3 days, not allowing soil to dry. If, after drought, you decide to abundantly pour plants, or suddenly the rains will go, it will only lead to the fact that the kochans crack.
The fact that the plant wants to drink, the leaves flashes: when drought, they are minced, take a vertical position, twisted. There may be fallen and the resulting zeroshi, and if the fruits are already poured, they slowly grow and ripen, often appears a vertex rot.
Watering tomatoes needed under the root - the sprinkle is permissible only in very hot and dry weather. Excess moisture in the air can provoke diseases. For this culture recommend Morning Polyv. When the first flowers appear, pour out once a week once a week, and then every 10-12 days, spending 1 sq. M to 30 liters of water.
Cucumber loves water, so you need to water it often. Although he turned out to be a rather controversial nature. 🙂 Judge himself:
Soil under the cucumbers after watering should be wet to a depth of at least 40 cm; Under adult plants for this will have to pour about 20-30 liters of water per 1 sq.m.
Eggplant suffering from thirst and peppers stop in growth and do not bloom. To avoid such an attack, every 7-10 days they need to water, spending 15-30 liters of water for 1 sq. M. (depending on weather conditions).
Water plants under the root or in the furrows, laid along the row. In the heat you can apply morning or evening irrigation, and if the temperature drops below +15 degrees, the watering should be excluded at all - otherwise there is a risk of lesion of plants with gray rot.
Seeds of carrots before the appearance of the first germs must be in wet soil. Often, gardeners use film: it does not allow moisture to evaporate, and you can water carrot beds much less often. With the advent of shoots, the film must be removed, and then every 10 days to rush to water the landing, using a wande with a small pitch. 3 weeks before harvesting the crop is stopped. Water consumption - 30 l per 1 sq. M.
If the water is not enough, carrots can form a rough, ugly root root, or even throw a bloomer at all. The fact that the plant suffers from thirst, you can guess in a slightly twisted and darkened leaves.
But the beet does not require such worries - it can be watered much less often. For the entire leaves season, the beets are enough to pour 4-5 times (of course, if there is no strong heat, and it rains periodically). Water consumption is the same as for carrots, and watering recommended early in the morning or in the evening, in the grooves along the plants.
But the beets should not be overwhelmed either: it can drive from drought, like carrots, can go to the formation of flowers instead of forming the root. And if it shams, he will be tougher and tasteless. The lack of irrigation of the beet flashes the boring-violet color of foliage, which, besides, is noticeably mines when drought.
Swimming tips of the pen remind: it's time to water. But if the weather stands rainy, these cultures cost natural moisture; In the dry and hot to go out on the bed with a watering can or the hose will have to 5-6 days.
When it remains to clean up for about a month, the watering should be stopped at all: from excess moisture of the bulbs are worse, and then poorly stored in winter. Most of all water is required by plants when the bulbs are poured - the norm at this time is 30-35 l per 1 sq. M. In the spring, while the root system is formed and foliage is growing, they use no more than 30 liters per 1 sq.m.
These cultures are not needed too often, but I will remember:
Watering should only be root; Pour water is very careful not to bargain the root system. Choose morning or evening hours for "water procedures": in the afternoon there is too high the likelihood of burns.
I will say honestly: never watered potatoes, up to the present spring. I read, of course, that he watered is also needed, but he has great and without it. And then it was afraid that in the dry hot land, the tubers would simply be baked instead of germinate. But in general, watering potatoes are recommended once a week, 20-30 liters of water per 1 sq. M. Landings. If after irrigation, the soil is slightly adding, breaking and inspired by humus or peat, then you can do after one month.
Do you often have to water the garden or the weather takes part of the work? And how do you water - according to the rules or by intuition? 🙂
Source: 7Dach.ru.
