What is laminate, I think everyone knows. This material is now very popular. Excellent appearance and quite affordable price - These are the main factors that take into account people, choosing this flooring for their home or apartment. How to lay laminate - With this we now and try to figure it out.
As usual, start with surface preparation. To begin with, our draft floor must be examined at the tricks of irregularities. Mostly manufacturers allow irregularities to 2 mm per meter of the floor area. Those. You take a flat rail (level, rule) 1 meter long and apply it to the floor in different places and in different directions, unreeddinous, the presence of depression and bugrov.
Drops on concrete floors are aligned with a thin screed device from self-leveling bulk mixes. If you have uneven milking floors, then it is preferably to put a chipboard or a fan. Well suitable for laying laminate. It is important here to understand that the more irregularities on the basis, the greater the likelihood of the appearance of the slots between the panels of the laminate. When walking on the floor in places of irregularities of the panel, the panels are flexed relative to each other, the lock compounds are gradually abolished. And the lower the quality of the laminate itself, the faster the gaps will appear.
The next step is the flooring substrate. Its thickness is usually from 2 to 4 mm. It is not thicker to make the substrate, it will again lead to wear of locks. The selection of substrate is now very diverse. The cheapest - obtained from polyethylene foam (foam, polyfom, isolon and many others).
Cork substrates are more environmentally friendly, but also more expensive. There are substrates made of extruded polystyrene foam, made in the form of rectangular sheets. The same side is corrugated. When laying, it must be drawn down.
In general, the choice is large, and besides constantly replenished. Advise what to choose, honestly, I can not. What a noticeable difference I never felt. As usual, each manufacturer has its product best. I will only say that the service life has a lot above the listed types of substrates higher than that of the laminate itself, so any of them is quite acceptable.
When laying a laminate on a concrete base, under the substrate, it is necessary to additionally disseminate waterproofing. This may be, for example, a simple polyethylene film with a thickness of 0.2 mm or any other waterproofing film.
Before laying the laminate must lie in the room at least 2 days so that it adapts to the temperature and humidity of the room. Stacking is recommended to produce along the direction of the sun's rays. When laying across, the joints give small shadows and they become a little more noticeable, porting the integrity of the appearance.
There are two ways to install laminate:
The adhesive method of laying has one good advantage - the joints are reliably protected from moisture penetration. The service life of the coating in connection with this increases. But the installation process itself is more complicated and labor-intensives (compared to the castle), moreover, additional costs appear. In rooms where the warm floor system is installed, use this method is not recommended.
Laying with adhesive method is made with applying panels of special water-repellent adhesive (sold along with laminate). In no case cannot be used with water-based glue (for example, PVA). This will raise the joints. The glue is applied to the pump panels along the entire length. Then the groove is joined with a spike of the previously laid panel. The connection is condensed with light blows of the hammer through the wooden paler. Excess glue wipes with a damp cloth.
Setting 3 rows of panels is better to give a couple of hours with a drying. Then lay the floor to the end. To operate the coating, you can begin 10-12 hours after the end of the installation.
The adhesive method of laying is currently applied less and less. There is practically no such laminate for sale. His castle panels are displaced from the market. It is connected with the simplicity of the latter installation. And the coating of the lock laminate can even be disassembled without damaging the panels and, for example, to transfer to another room. Although, to be honest, I have never heard that anyone would do.
Locks in all manufacturers of laminate have their own features and differences. But in general, all of them can be divided into 2 groups: Click. and Lock.
When laying up laminate with type locks Lockone panel is clogged into another with a hammer. Thanks to special rowers, the spike is reliably fixed in the groove and without the use of glue.
Type locks Click.appeared later and are considered better and wear-resistant. Mounted their boards one panel to another at an angle (30-45º). Then it is pressed to the floor and the lock is snapped. From myself I will add that it is still necessary to force the laminate with a hammer, although manufacturers on the instructions are not written.
The sequence of laminate installation of all types described above is almost the same. Laying begins with the left corner of the room. Before laying the 1st series, it is necessary to measure the width of the room and calculate what width will turn out to be the last row. And it may turn out that you are offered the whole room and at the end of the walls along the wall 2-3 cm. The plinth is not covered with it, and such a narrow strip of laminate will be bad. The width should be at least less than 5 cm. To do this, it will be necessary to cut the first row panel along the length.
Between the laminate and the walls, it is necessary to leave a gap to the thermal expansion. Usually it is done about 1 cm. The main thing is that it then closes the plinth.
So, we recruit the first row of the laminate to the left of the right. Extreme right panel mostly always need to trim (do not forget the gaps). From the remaining piece, you can begin the next row, so we get the necessary disintegration of the seams. It is recommended that the dispersion of this is at least 30 cm.
By typing the first row between the laminate and the walls insert the wedges to provide the necessary gap, while it is necessary to monitor the rectinity of the row. True I myself do a little differently. When paving the hammer panels of subsequent rows, the clins often fly out, the straightness of the row is broken, in general, inconvenient. Therefore, I fix the first row to the screws with the washers (if you are cutting on a wooden floor) or a dowel-nail with washers (if the floor is concrete). Screw them in the corners and in the places of docking panels of the first row. After the end of the installation of the laminate, I definitely unscrew.
When laying a laminate with glue and with clogged type locks Lockeach subsequent panel is first joined along the long edge later on the end.
When laying a laminate with type lock Click.first you type a number of panels and then it is completely inserted into the previous one. With a large width of the room alone, it is uncomfortable, it is better to two.
When installing the laminate panels, it is convenient to use special set Tools. If this is not available, boil the laminate through a piece of panel (10-15 cm), inserting it in a spike in the groove. When installing the extreme right panels of the series and the entire last row, you can squeeze it from the wall with a small nail, just neatly, through the lining, so as not to damage the walls and laminate.
After completion of the installation, you need to install the plinth, and it is possible to fix them only to the wall, and not to the floor.
Laminate is a wonderful coverage of your sex, betraying your room completed and aesthetically right view. But poor-quality junction between laminate and laminate can spoil the whole picture.
The basis of the material from which the laminate is manufactured is the chipboard. This means that under the influence of moisture, he can swell, diverge and deform. Laminate, consisting and sweeping from moisture requires replacement. Answer questions to what to do and what to close the junction is a gel sealant.
Below is a list of minimal necessary for successful mount. outdoor coating:
The main function of the gel gel is preventing moisture from entering the joints, gaps and seams.
It is worth it to note that the gel does not glue the seams and in case you need to disassemble the floor covering, you can do it without much effort. Often at the final stage of the styling of the coating, the question arises, how to dock the laminate or what to close the junction between laminate and laminate.
The reasons why the junction between laminate and laminate can be as follows:
In all the above points you need to apply the connecting planks. This decision is considered the most correct, since with such a method to close the connecting seam remains the required gap for temperature fluctuations.
The installed bar allows you to protect the ends of the coating and close the upper gap from the fall of all kinds of garbage.
The connecting profile is necessary in order to hide the bog between laminate and laminate. It is made from various materials, it depends on the profile function.
The principle of choice of docking slats:
Absolutely all connecting elements are supplied with an attachment rack, which is used for hidden mounting. Fastening rails are attached to the base with the help of glue or screws, and the screws on the self-tapping screw is more reliable because it is in case of need, it is possible to remove and apply it again, and it is impossible for the use of glue.
But the metal profile is possible to install the open way, you will need a dowel and self-tapping screws. It is for such cases where technological holes are done in metal products during one of the stages of production, and the supply kit contains fasteners.
How to close the junction between laminate and laminate:
An alternative to the use of all kinds of planks, is a laminate connection using a cork filler. The weak point of this method are the need to have absolutely perfect surfaces that need to be combined and a very high degree of moisture exposure. Therefore, this method was sent small fame.
Special attention when mounting a docking profile for laminate should be given to gaps. After all, it is at the junctions that you need to leave a gap of three four millimeters. This gap compensates for the consignable moment when increasing the temperature. Each person himself chooses how to choose a bog between laminate and laminate, this is a matter of taste and specifically your solution.
High-quality laminate, not subject to stressful load, serves for a long time, while maintaining all the stated functions. Laminate is quite possible without specialized training, in the presence and desire.
As a rule, when laying outdoor coatings, the laminate and laminate is called the greatest complexity. This is due to the fact that the junction should be neat so as not to interfere with free movement and was inconspicuous. Next, we will look at how to cope with this complexity.
It must be said that the design of the junctions causes difficulties only in those who are first engaged in styling with their own hands. Such little things have long been thought out by experts, so we can only take advantage ready-made solutions. In this case, such a solution are connecting plates.
The design of the joints with the use of slats, or in a different locking compound, is obtained sufficiently dense, as a result of which the tiles cannot move freely relative to each other when the moisture change or temperature changes in the room.
First consider, in what cases this compound may be needed. It should be understood that it is not about dusting tiles when assembling, but about those cases when the tile must be connected with a previously laid material, for which you have to use a connecting profile for laminate.
So, the need for this operation may arise in the following cases:
Tip! Using the use of different materials, for example, differ in color, zoning in one room can be performed.
By purchasing a coating, you can ask the seller in advance whether there are planks that are necessary for the joints of the joints in your particular case. It should be borne in mind that they may differ both form and material.
Form of profile
Connecting strips, depending on their purpose, may be as follows:
- Direct profiles - Applied when placing a laminate joints with laminate or with other floor coatings, for example, with ceramic tiles.
- Transient profiles - located at different levels.
- Corner profiles - Use when the joints of perpendicular surfaces on the podiums and stairs of the data trimmed by this material are used.
- Finishing profile - Apply for the framing of open edges outdoor material.
The above profiles are not only decorative function. As mentioned above, instructions for laying this coating requires expansion seams. Connecting Planks make these seams hidden.
Note! Expansion seams must be performed every 7-8 meters. Otherwise, the coverage of nowhere will be expanded, as a result of which he flies in places of compounds.
In the photo - spoiled coating as a result of the absence of expansion seams
Profile materials
Connecting Planks can be made of the following materials:
- Laminated - Made of wood-made fibers and decorating film covered. The drawing is selected in accordance with the pattern of the coating. Since it is necessary to connect the coating between the rooms as soon as possible, the product is usually used in doorways.
- Metal - As a rule, made from brass, aluminum or stainless steel. Such strips are distinguished by increased strength, so they are used in the zones of increased passability.
- Plastic - These are flexible and soft profiles, therefore, usually used when making curvilinear joints. The main advantage of these products is the low price and a variety of colors. However, their service life is relatively small.
- Rubber - Usually angular profiles that are used on stairs to ensure the safety of movement.
Installation of connecting plans
All of the above connecting elements are sold complete with a fastening rail designed for hidden mounting.
The connection is made as follows:
- The fastener rail is fixed to the base with the help of glue or screws. More preferable is the second option, since it allows you to set the bar again, moreover, they also provide greater strength.
- Then the second coating is spilled from the rail.
- After that, a decorative plank is installed in the fastening bar, which is snapped with light blows of the hammer through the wooden bar.
In the same way you can connect this material With tiled floor tiles or any other coating. Vividly look and learn how to connect the laminate between the rooms, you can from the video below.
Tip! Metal profiles can be installed in an open manner using self-samples or dowels. Holes for them are performed on production.
Output
As a rule, the overall impression of the quality of repair and the interior is largely formed such trifles as designing angles, joints and transitions. Therefore, the compounds must be drawn at no less responsibly than to the installation of the most outdoor material. The information presented above will help you cope with this work quickly and efficiently.
When connecting two different in the texture and texture of materials, it is necessary to somehow make a place for their connection. In this article we will discuss how beautiful to docile laminate and tiles. Methods are different, as well as results.
IN modern house Or the apartment uses different floor coverings. In places of their compound, height differences are often formed - due to different coating thickness. To make such a transition beautifully and reliably can only know what to do. Most often you have to keep tiles and laminate. These are the two most popular type of flooring for premises of various purposes. The junction of tiles and laminate at the place of position is in two places:
As you already understood, there are two ways to make a junction of laminate and tiles - with a damage and without it. The first requires high quality trimming tiles, the same gap between two materials all over the seam. Only in this case it turns out a decent result. The second is simpler in performance, does not require special accuracy in the trimming of the material and special skills when performing. But it looks somewhat "rustic."
When docking the tile and laminate without a clad, it is predefined to solve the problem of the height drop: due to the layer of glue tile may be higher. Only after that you can proceed to work. Even, the connection site will look good if it is carefully processed, the gap will be smooth.
If two different materials are jammed - ceramics and laminate - it is impossible to place them close to each other without a gap. When the temperature difference or humidity drops, they can increase in size (more than that "suffers" laminate). The presence of a gap prevents the problem - it makes it possible to change it in size without prejudice to the integrity of the coating. When docking the laminate and tiles without a clad, this gap is filled with a suitable elastic material.
Whatever material is not used for sealing, the edge of the laminate, it is adjacent to it, be sure to process the protective composition, which prevents moisture absorption. Most often a sealant is used for this. Better - silicone, which, after drying, does not lose elasticity and does not shine over time.
Between the tile and laminate you can lay the cork compensator. This is a thin strip of the plug, which on one side is painted and covered with a layer of protective varnish or finished with a layer of veneer. The second option is greater than the wood surface, you can pick up a color, very similar to your floor-coated. But it is used more often for the junction of the parquet - it costs a lot.
In addition, that in the "face" of a cork compensator is separated different materialsIt can be of different shapes: from the chamfer different types or without. In addition, the sizes can be different:
Cork compensator of standard length is good only if the junction is under the door. Then its length is enough. In other situations or you have to splict, or order.
Install the cork compensator at the junction of the tile and laminate when laying the floor covering. When one species is already laid, and the second will only fit. First of all, if you need to cut the height of the plug - you can not always pick up perfect option. Therefore, neatly, sharp knife cut off the surplus.
More preparatory work - bringing the laid edge. Once again we remind you, it should be smooth and well-processed. Most often, the edge is grinding sandpaper, aligning the traces of cutting.
Mounted cork compensator for glue, preferably - for wood. Previous installation location is well cleaned and degreased. Next, the process is:
If you do everything correctly, it turns out a neat, not striking seam. Well, so you can make straight and curvilinear joints.
If the materials are already laid, the junction of laminate and tiles can be or arranged by a hole, or fill the tile grout. We will talk about the thresholds later, but now we will discuss how to use the grout.
The edges of the laminate should be molded with silicone. They can also fill the junction for about 2/3. When silicone dries out, the remaining space is filled with a diluted grout for seams, align it and wait until it dry.
Simple I. effective method. But only if the edges are treated qualitatively. For greater color stability and easier care, the seam is better covered with colorless varnish.
Another junction of laminate and tiles can be sealed using cork sealant. He himself is a sealant, so this is the only option in which the slice of laminate does not need to be protected from moisture. Another plus - the dried composition has a cork tree color - light brown. If it is suitable for you, you will not have to take care of his painting.
Cork sealant is a mixture of crumb of cork cork and a water-based binder. Without dyes after drying, there is a plug color - light brown. There are painted palettes painted in the main colors. Released in plastic tubes, can be applied using a pistol closed type (with capacity) or spatula. Can be used to fill seams in floor coatings.
When using this composition, you will most likely have to use the spatula. Therefore, on both Side ILO SHA stick a raner tape. Seam is cleansed, remove dust. You can work at temperatures above + 5 ° C.
Seared tiles and laminate with cork sealant simply:
After drying, we have ready to use tile and laminate butt. The only drawback is not all suitable for the base color. And yet - it is necessary to carefully and smoothly distribute it immediately after applying. Then align or fix it will not work.
Making a junction of laminate and tiles using thresholds makes sense in three cases. The first when the joke is obtained under the door. In this case, the presence of the thoring is logical and "does not cut the eye." The second option - in the presence of the height of two jammed materials. There is just no other way out.
And the third case. When the tile is laid in the hallway, and then there is a laminate. Even if their level coincides, it is better to put the threshings here. He rises a bit above the finish and will delay the sand and litter, which is inevitably entered with shoes. This option is when some aesthetic imperfections can be closed.
There are the following thresholds that can be used to close the junction of laminate and tiles:
It only seems that there are few options. There are all these bellows in different sizes and colors, with various systems fixation. In large stores there are a lot of them.
As already spoke, the flexible docking profile PVC consists of a base and a decorative lining, which keeps on it due to the force of elasticity. It is necessary to mount it after the tile is laid, but before mounting the laminate.
First, the base is mounted along the cut-off tile. It is attached to a dowel or self-tapping screw. Fasteners Choose with flat caps - so that in the twisted state it almost did not speak and did not interfere install the lining.
Installation process is:
With the help of flexible PVC profile, the shake of laminate and tiles are embossed. Externally, of course, he doesn't like everyone, but the installation is simple.
