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The furnace for working off (used engine oil) is an actively discussed topic, but not new. Free heating with your own hands in the Russian Federation and the CIS has a rather long history. Now we are seeing his rebirth.
Nikita Sergeevich Khrushchev, like the entire USSR, is very ambiguous, and not only in the geopolitical sense. Under him, it became possible for ordinary citizens to acquire personal vehicles, garage cooperatives were created, summer cottages were distributed with might and main. Agriculture was intensively mechanized. And then, in the 60s, the first shoots of ecological thinking broke through.
Garages and cottages needed to be heated. Fuel (in the present - energy carriers) cost a penny - literally, a liter of 66th gasoline is 2 kopecks, and 76th is 7 kopecks. - but even a penny had to be saved, salaries were small. And they were fined for draining the work, and a lot, up to a third of the salary at a time came out. And it was expensive to carry coal to the dacha, and bottled gas was generally exotic. For unauthorized felling of a forest for firewood, it was possible to go to prison in a completely Soviet way - without unnecessary talk and lengthy proceedings. As a result, a waste oil oven appeared.
The craftsmen did not have to puzzle for a long time over the principle of action - kerogas was then the most common in dachas and in private houses. The vaporized kerosene in it was burned out in a special chamber, in contrast to a primus or a blowtorch, where already highly heated fuel vapors burn. Therefore, kerosene gas was relatively safe in operation, and a violation of the combustion regime signaled itself with a stench and soot long before it developed into an accident. The working furnace works on the same principle, it was only necessary to figure out how to completely burn heavily contaminated viscous fuel using simple domestic methods.
Kerogaz "Leningrad" with an external chamber
The second progenitors of the oil stove were gas generators, which were widely used during the war, when high-quality fuel went to the front. Adults of the 60s were familiar with them, so the general scheme of the stove's operation loomed clearly:
Today's working furnaces do not repeat the designs of those days, except, which will be discussed separately. And there are good reasons for that.
In the 60s, combustion to carbon dioxide and water vapor was considered absolutely clean and safe. Nowadays, both are, alas, greenhouse gases, the effect of which is already quite tangible on our own skin in the literal sense. It is impossible to burn even deeper, but the efficiency of the furnace is of particular importance.
Then there were no synthetic motor oils, and ingenious additives to them. They allow you to halve or more to reduce the liter fuel consumption of an internal combustion engine in comparison with the then, but with incomplete combustion they give carcinogens, toxins, mutagens and God knows what else. And then people were generally healthier and more resilient. Again, nothing can be done - in a little more than half a century, the population of the Earth has increased 2.5 times and continues to grow. With regard to the stove, you need to burn it 100% and nothing less.
Finally, the then engine oil - a natural petroleum rectified from saturated hydrocarbons - could not develop very much high fever when burning. Therefore, very harmful and dangerous nitrogen oxides in the stoves of that time were formed only by separate molecules. And the current simple stove on working off can throw them out in quantities perceptible for health. So it is worth dwelling on nitrogen oxides in more detail.
All nitrogen oxides are hazardous to humans. In medicine, the lightest of them is used for anesthesia - nitrous oxide, laughing gas, but strictly according to the dosage under the supervision of an anesthesiologist. The more nitrogen combines with oxygen, the more dangerous the result. The oxidation tanks of combat missiles are filled with nitrogen tetraoxide N2O4, a fuel “sister” worthy of its causticity and toxicity - heptyl (asymmetric dimethylhydrazine), which it oxidizes. The hellish stuffing of modern machines of mass destruction lurks not only in warheads.
How can an oxide oxidize? The fact is that nitrogen oxides are endothermic compounds; energy must be expended on their formation; nitrogen and oxygen “do not like” each other, the difference in their electrochemical potentials and the quantum properties of the electron shells do not allow them to strongly bond. When interacting with compounds that have reducing properties (easily combining with oxygen, halogens and their relatives according to the periodic table), nitrogen oxides give off oxygen just as easily as is oxidation with the release of energy, i.e. combustion. As applied to rockets, a fuel with a heavy molecular weight with a heavy oxidizer gives a large exhaust mass and a strong jet thrust.
With regard to ovens, here you need to know the following:
The engine oil is not drained every day, and you need to heat it regularly in winter. Donations from well-wishers cannot be regular. If you have to buy fuel for the stove, how much will it cost?
The selling price of used oil in the Russian Federation ranges from 5 to 14 rubles / liter. self-pickup, it is still about 5 rubles / km by car with a trailer. And it is not at all easy to buy: mining is considered a hazardous waste, you need a license for processing. Moreover, wholesale buyers are reluctant to sell and not by bucket-canister norms. They convert the oil into dark heating oil. The profitability is high, and who will give the valuable raw materials cheaply?
But there is an interesting move here. Enterprises often buy fresh engine oil in the general flow of fuels and lubricants, because strict accounting of his purchases is not required. Working off needs to be taken into account, but who then knows how much it came out? There is a sense to indulge in such machinations - there is less trouble with the environment, and the income from the sale of mining on a production scale is scanty. Therefore, enterprises often give used engine oil for free or for a penny, if only they were taken out. That is, you know how to agree - there will be something to drown.
A homemade oven for working out may not be much more complicated than a pan, but the processes taking place in it are very, very difficult. Otherwise complete combustion with high efficiency and harmless exhaust can not be achieved. To fully understand them and choose a suitable design for execution, or a prototype for your own, you must first recall the Coriolis force.
The Coriolis force is known to arise from the rotation of the Earth; it is a vivid example of how the huge and the slow manifests itself in the small and the fast. It is the Coriolis force that spins the water flowing from the bathtub. Since the water flow rate in the pipe is much less than the sound one in it (the flow rate flue gas in the chimney - too), the Coriolis swirl - it occurs only in the vertical sections of the pipe - is transmitted back, and the formation of a vortex depends on the length of the vertical part of the branch pipe.
It is easy to make sure of this: we take an ordinary funnel, plug the watering can with our finger, fill it with water and release the finger. The water flows out smoothly. Now we put on a watering can a piece of hose from a meter or more, leave it hanging down and do the same. The water swirled.
The magnitude of the Coriolis force also depends on the ratio of the density of the medium to its viscosity, therefore, it is more difficult to twist the gas "in Coriolis". In addition, gases are compressible, so the Reynolds number and other factors also manifest themselves. A tall boiler room pipe can emit an even column of steam.
But why swirl the flue gases? Without this, it is impossible to achieve high-quality, complete and safe combustion of fuel. In order for the heat from the initial combustion of the light fractions to go to the splitting of the heavy ones, which will then give the bulk of the heat, the mixture must be thoroughly mixed all the time. You can twist it with different nozzles, pressurization, etc., but such designs (we will also consider them) are difficult for an ordinary DIYer to make. But the Coriolis force is easier to use; we will see further how.
Conclusion on the Coriolis force: when repeating furnace designs, it is necessary to accurately maintain the specified dimensions and proportions. From non-observance - children, gluttony, poison.
An oil stove is a heater using heavy, poorly burning and highly contaminated fuel of a complex composition. In order for it to burn completely, its heavy components must be split into lighter ones; oxidize everything in the oil, oxygen is too tough. Burning out completely what has already been split is a simpler task.
The cleavage process is called pyrolysis, or flame cleavage. Ultimately, the heat of combustion of the fuel itself is used for pyrolysis; it is a self-sustaining and self-regulating process, which is very good. But to start pyrolysis, the fuel must be evaporated, and the vapors must be heated at a certain starting temperature (300-400 degrees), after which the pyrolysis will increase and everything will burn out. There are two ways to achieve this at home.
In the first method, the oil in the tank is simply ignited. It heats up and begins to evaporate, and then everything happens in a simple vertical pipe with extensions and possibly bends. A schematic diagram of the device of such a furnace is shown in the figure.
Air enters the tank with burning oil through its throat with a throttle valve; with its help, the force of combustion is regulated, i.e. heat output of the furnace without disturbing the combustion mode. To make it possible gas-air mixture should be continuously mixed along the pipe. Here the Coriolis force comes to the rescue, when correctly selected according to the properties of the fuel, the length of the vertical chimney and its diameter.
Also, a practically free flow of air is required into the combustion chamber, into which the reservoir passes, - the furnace operates normally with an excess of oxygen. Therefore, the combustion chamber is perforated. The hood to the afterburner (expansion above the combustion chamber) does not have to be a hood, as shown in the diagram. It may also be an incomplete partition when the outlet of the combustion chamber with the chimney is horizontally spaced. But it is absolutely necessary to separate the zone of oxygen afterburning and nitric oxide, and organize a corresponding jump in temperatures between them, otherwise oxygen that is still too hot will take away "food" from nitrogen oxides, and in the meantime they will cool down to a pit in the phase diagram and go into the pipe throughout its harmfulness.
Drawings of a furnace for this type of mining are shown in the large Fig. below her appearance and an assembly drawing - in fig. above. This is a well-known and well-proven design for home-builders. Kindle it with a small torch through a fully open throttle hole. Chimney height (straight!) - not less than 4 m.
Here, in the figure, there is also a very popular mini-furnace for mining and oil sludge among home-made people. Material thickness, conventional structural steel, from 4 mm. The furnace weighs about 10 kg versus 27-30 for the previous one, and its dimensions in terms of plan are determined by those of the tank. The author of the design recommends for him the bottom and top of a standard gas cylinder. Quite reasonably, if there is one - very strong, and just one weld. But any other container of the indicated sizes plus / minus 20 mm is also suitable for the tank.
This stove has a number of features:
As a result, the thermal power of the furnace is limited to 5-6 kW; To "heat up" this oven in excess is simply dangerous. But on the other hand, the fuel consumption is about 0.5 l / h, and the stove is relatively easy to clean. The design is collapsible, the joints of the combustion chamber with the reservoir and the chimney are pulled together with clamps. Disassembled, this stove can be taken with you in the trunk - to the dacha, to the hunting lodge, etc.
Let's say you are not too lazy to build an extension for the oven and feed from it into the house hot water... The first task that needs to be solved is feeding the stove at least for the night. It is impossible to increase the reservoir: the oil will not warm up and the stove will not ignite properly. But the solution has long been known: continuous refueling on the principle of communicating vessels.
The requirements for such a make-up are clear from the figure; the throttle on the tank is not shown conventionally, but, of course, it is still necessary. Of its functions, only combustion regulation remains, and this is a big plus for fire safety... Otherwise, one would have to pour a flammable liquid into a fire or a red-hot vessel, or wait until the stove cools down. It is useless to insert a wick into the fuel line, like in a blowtorch: it will immediately clog up during mining.
What about a blowing furnace? It is known, after all, that it increases the efficiency and heat output of furnaces. Yes, but you just can't build airflow into a self-burned stove. Blow into the furnace, i.e. the tank is useless - we will only unbalance the self-regulating combustion system. The stove will quickly ignite, and then, when the light fractions of the fuel burn out, it will go out: the air flow will take away the heat necessary for the evaporation of the heavy ones. Alas, you cannot improve the parameters of a self-burned oil furnace by blowing into the firebox.
But blowing (more precisely, blowing) can be used for another purpose. Artificially increasing the draft, you can make a chimney with kinks: from the chimney (the neck of the combustion chamber) - long, to the entire wall, horizontal pipe, and only then the vertical chimney. This will improve the heating of the room with minimal additional costs, without disrupting the combustion mode in the furnace.
To increase the thrust, you can use two methods of pressurization into the chimney: injection (pos. A in the figure) and ejector, pos. B. The first is very simple and completely safe: when the pressurization is stopped, some thrust is retained. The stove will simply heat up worse and consume more fuel. But you need a source of compressed air. And a thin (1-3 mm lumen) tube, a durit hose and an adjustment valve.
For ejector pressurization, any low-power fan is sufficient: a 12 V computer fan with a diameter of 120-150 mm, a kitchen exhaust fan, an industrial VN-2 fan or the like. The required capacity is at least 1500 l / h, and the diameter of the inlet neck of the ejector is 20-50% larger than the diameter of the chimney.
However, if the ejector blowing stops, the flue gases will go into the room, so a clapper valve with a weak return (slamming) spring is needed between the fan and the ejector. Considering also that the coupling of the chimney with the ejector looks simple only in the diagram (like all equipment in general), the design turns out to be rather complicated.
An oil oven is a compact (concentrated) heat source, and the heating of the room from it will be uneven, especially if it is not insulated and with thin walls. You can find recommendations to turn the first of the described furnaces into a more efficient one. air heater by welding metal ribs onto the afterburner (knob). But the afterburner from this will cool down more than permissible, and the operating mode of the furnace will be disrupted.
Now let's remember: any greedy person collects more than he needs. And the stove on oil has a margin of stability of the regime, which is expressed in very specific kilowatts of heat. More precisely - 15-20% of the thermal power, i.e. you can select up to 2-3 kW. Only you need to take it carefully and gradually evenly from everywhere so that the greedy person does not catch himself.
The simplest way to do this is an ordinary room fan, floor or tabletop, blowing off the stove from a distance of 1.5-2 m. The whole stove will cool down a little from it, but there is no temperature jump in the course of gases that can bring down the mode. A stream of warm air will quickly and evenly warm up the room. - the best option.
Now let's see how to organize DHW or water heating from the oven on the self-burn. To pile up a water tank on the afterburner means, again, to bring down the combustion mode. Therefore, now we will take heat where the oven itself is no longer needed. How to do this is shown in the figure on the right. For the first of the described furnaces, the heat absorber will need to be built into the structure during assembly, otherwise the afterburner will interfere.
Instead of a coil, a water jacket can be welded, then a heat-reflecting screen made of galvanized, tin or aluminum is not needed. But in any case, between the heat sink and outer wall the combustion chamber must have a gap of at least 50-70 mm for free air access, and at least 120-150 mm at the bottom, if there is a desire to make the shirt higher. But this does not make much sense, approximately 75% of the thermal radiation comes from the upper third of the combustion chamber and the adjacent area of the afterburner.
In total, such a heater is capable of giving up to a third of its thermal power, with forced circulation of the coolant. Quite enough . For a summer residence, 20% is enough, then the circulation in the system can be left with a thermosyphon.
Note: the expansion tank in both cases needs a low and wide, at least 50 liters, and necessarily atmospheric, not membrane, and with an emergency drain in case of boiling. The alternative is complicated: automation that regulates the throttle according to the water temperature in the system. The second alternative is not simpler, but even more expensive - filling the system with high-boiling antifreeze. Careful sealing of joints is required about special drainage in expansion tank, which will cost no less than automation.
All self-burning stoves have serious drawbacks. Firstly, these are devices with an open flame and hot parts accessible to touch - the combustion zone "at full gas" is red-hot. Therefore, placing them in residential premises is unacceptable, and using them as heating devices is 100% not an insured event. It is necessary to put it in a separate fireproof extension and arrange for the selection and removal of heat, at least as described above.
Secondly, it makes no sense to expect to get a thermal power of more than 15 kW by increasing the size. The intensity of oil evaporation required for this cannot be achieved by spontaneous combustion; only fumes and soot will go.
Thirdly, it is possible to extinguish a burnt-out stove only with a carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. Powder - God forbid, hitting the hot metal, the powder will immediately explode! With the throttle fully closed, enough air will pass through the holes in the combustion chamber to warm the flame like a candle in a glass. It is useless to arrange a view anywhere - instant fumes and fumes. If it's already hot, then the fuel should burn out completely.
Note: the view between the reservoir and the combustion chamber is especially dangerous. Oil vapors are dense; their pressure is high, and boiling will not stop instantly. Burning oil can splash out, and if the throttle is also closed, the stove can explode.
Fourthly, the extraction of heat for heating or hot water supply, although possible, is difficult. Excessive cooling of external surfaces interferes with temperature regime inside the oven, which at best leads to a deterioration in efficiency and soot deposition. The oil stove is a greedy stove. It won't give up its heat capital just like that.
Fifth, when refueling with highly watered fuel, violent instant boiling is possible at once in the entire volume of the tank. Simply put - the explosion of the stove.
Finally, although the stove is economical (no more than 1.5 l / h of oil), the heaviest fractions of the fuel cannot evaporate and settle into the sludge in the tank. 5-6 furnaces, and you need to rake it out, but it is not easy. The tank is necessarily one-piece welded. A collapsible design of any conceivable home-builder will not hold boiling blazing oil in itself. The consequences are obvious.
Is it possible to make a waste oil oven free of these disadvantages? Such that it can be put in the kitchen, and let it warm itself? Yes, it is possible, but you will have to work harder and apply all your skills.
If you take a closer look, you can clearly see that the source of all the dangers of self-burn stoves is a tank of burning oil. To get rid of it, you need to vaporize and spray the fuel in some other way. The zones of pyrolysis, combustion and afterburning are best combined in a flame torch so that heat extraction from flue gases does not interfere with the operation of the furnace. And it is highly desirable that the furnace be able to operate on watered fuel. Technically speaking, you need a burner.
In industrial conditions, almost any fuel is burned clean in nozzles, the upper position in Fig. In order for complete combustion to take place in a torch, two- and three-stage formation of a fuel-air mixture is used: compressed air pulls atmospheric air, and the diaphragm separates and swirls the air flow. Everything is burned in the nozzle, including the bilge water of ships.
Note: bilge water - a cocktail of seawater leaks, fuel, domestic waste water, cargo gathering at the very bottom of the hold. Collected in the bilge line. A sewer in a big city versus bilge water - a beach in the Canary Islands.
For the normal operation of the nozzle, not only high precision manufacturing and special materials are required. We also need a whole small fuel preparation shop: a homogenizer of the contents of fuel tanks, its disperser in pipelines, pumps, filters, a fuel heating system and automation that controls all this.
But even this is not enough for working off. The reason for this is all the same heavy bituminous components. The nozzle for testing has to be supplemented with a fire jacket and an afterburner with thermal insulation, the lower position in Fig.
And nevertheless, the burner is on the working out, available for self-made, exists. And even in several guises.
The principle of operation is simple - fuel drips into a hot bowl, explosively evaporates, flares up and burns (pos. A in fig). Atmospheric air is also supplied here with pressurization from a low-power fan; when using a centrifugal volute fan, it must be screwed on, for which a fixed impeller can be installed at the mouth of the air duct.
For the initial heating of the bowl, the burner must be ignited, therefore, in industrial conditions, the flame bowl is rarely used, but home-made people use it with success. The design ensures almost complete combustion in the immediate vicinity of the bowl, therefore, a working boiler with a flame bowl is obtained in the most relaxed way, which is also noted in Fig. 3/4 of the flue gas turnover is indicated for clarity. In fact, it is necessary for the gas mixture to spin a little more inside, then the efficiency will be higher. But if the spin is too strong, the combustion is incomplete. Building a flame bowl from scratch requires a lot of expertise and experience.
Pyrolysis in a flame bowl occurs in a peculiar way: the decomposition of heavy fractions is provided not only by high temperature, but also by complex physicochemical processes in an exploding drop, which are significantly different from those in a large mass of matter. Actually, this is no longer quite pyrolysis, and the bowl in a red-hot state is maintained not only by combustion, but also by the energy released during the disintegration of molecules.
When using waste oil as fuel, afterburning outside the bowl is still required, for which holes and slots are made in the air duct. It turns out something like a combustion chamber simple ovens on working off, turned inside out. A drawing of a furnace of this type with a capacity of about 15 kW at a fuel consumption of 1-1.5 l / h, depending on its quality, is given below.
Pos. B in Fig. above - a low-power (up to 5 kW) bowl with a porous fire-resistant filler 2. It is placed directly on the grate 1 of any stove, even a potbelly stove. The fuel supply is regulated by valve 3, and the air enters through the standard blower 4. We will talk about this design in more detail later.
On pos. Into a highly efficient but complex device for the complete combustion of any kind of liquid fuel - a Babington burner, or a BB burner, or just a B burner. Its base is a hollow hot metal sphere 1 with holes 0.2-0.5 mm in diameter. Air is blown into the sphere through tube 2, and fuel is dripping from the fuel line 6 onto it. Air escaping from the holes atomizes it and it burns out. Unburnt residues are collected in a collection 3, and a gear fuel pump 4 through the bypass valve 5 are fed back into the fuel line.
Note: for working off, the pump needs a gear pump. The other will soon fail from contamination.
The Babington burner has not one zest, as is commonly believed, but two. First, since air is blown out of the holes, the BB burner stably operates on the most contaminated fuel. Secondly, due to surface tension, the fuel envelops the sphere with a thin film, and the physical chemistry in the films is completely different than in the aggregates of the substance. There are separate sciences - physics and chemistry of thin films. The sciences are complex, but the essence is simple: the BB burner is completely smokeless, and its environmental friendliness practically does not depend on the composition of the fuel or on the combustion mode. Therefore, the BB burner can be built into any oven without any need. For ignition, a small portion of heating oil is used in an annular tray under the sphere.
Note: the fuel collector directly under the burner is shown conditionally. In fact, for the sake of fire safety, underburned drops fall into a funnel and flow down a narrow tube into a collection container. While the flow is on, they will go out.
A water stove is not at all a stove with a hot water circuit. This is a heavy fuel oil stove with a nozzle, into the flame of which drops of water fall. Instantly evaporating from the heat, they spray fuel, which burns.
People of the older generation remember the bitumen boilers with water nozzles, which the road workers and builders carried with them. The fuel was the same bitumen, pieces of which were put into the smelting chamber. Nowadays, water stoves are almost out of use, and in some countries they are banned for environmental reasons. They give a transparent exhaust, but very harmful. The reason is the formation of free hydrogen in the flame, a strong reducing agent. It binds with atmospheric nitrogen, and together they actively react with saturated hydrocarbons of the fuel, giving harmful organics.
From history along the way. Water injection (later - a water-methanol mixture) was invented in BMW, then producing aircraft engines for the Luftwaffe, in 1937, for a short-term increase in engine power. At first, the innovation remained in vain - an expensive engine in this mode produced a resource in 20 minutes. But in 1944, water-injected Bf-109G3s appeared on the Eastern Front. Contrary to popular belief, the fighting qualities of the Messers are a short-term "screech" from 1900 to 2300 hp. did not improve - the maneuverability of the machine "on a squeal" was completely lost, and it was possible to fly only in a straight line. But with a speed of 710 km / h. The fact is that experienced German pilots in the east by that time were almost knocked out, and it was impossible to escape from the Yak-3, La 5/7 or "Airacobra" without "screeching".
There were few Messers on the western front, they were kept for the east. The basis of the park was made up of heavy, but high-altitude FW-190. If the Messers fell to the west, then the “squealing” was already removed by the units for the sake of relief: there were fewer maneuverable “dog dumps” above the trenches, and the Spitfire MkVIII and Mustang P-51D (both with the English Rolls -Royce Griffon XII "in 2200 hp staff) coped with the jet Me-262.
The author's parents had a dacha with a potbelly stove, and he (“You’re already big, you cannot climb out of the forest) was charged with the preparation of fuel. Since the dacha association spread over an area of about 400 hectares, with plots from 6 to 20 acres, the surroundings were always robbed not only to a splinter - to a dry blade of grass, and often for lunch they had to chew dried meat, flavored with parental reproaches.
And then the kid came across a book by Raymond Priestley "Antarctic Odyssey". The story is incredible - 6 people, the northern party of the expedition of Robert Scott, were abandoned in Antarctica on the eve of winter. No warm clothes, no safe shelter, almost no food or fuel.
From the cold and fierce Antarctic winds - blizzards - escaped by digging a cave in the snow. Sailor knives and ice axes managed to kill enough seals not to die of hunger until spring. But in the cave it was necessary to maintain the temperature slightly below zero, at -60 and below outside, otherwise it would not be possible to survive, even lying in sleeping bags all the time. And blubber blubber smoked more than warmed and shone.
And then one of the party members, a simple sailor Harry Dickason, made an invention that saved everyone. He poured blubber into a tray from a canned biscuit can, threw in the fragments of seal bones, and set it on fire. The melted fat of the seal, passing through the pores of the hot bone, evaporated and burned with a strong bright flame, almost without smoke. Polar explorers now could not only not be afraid to freeze, but also cook hot. And they even fried a penguin on the holidays.
By the spring they looked like firebrands with tangles on their heads and could barely stay on their feet. But all the same, all six were able to overcome several hundred kilometers on the ice and returned to the base, where they had long been considered dead.
Returning, these people, who throughout their life found themselves recognizing themselves as heroes, learned that the well-equipped main party, led by Captain Scott himself, reached the South Pole after Amundsen, and on the way back they all died.
The idea was born immediately - to transfer the stove to oil sludge. At the oil depot, they gave it as much as you want for free. And the experiments were carried out on working off from neighbors-motorists.
For the bowl, the dacha watchman donated a stainless steel bowl. His faithful companion, the wolfhound, the Prosecutor recognized only a faience plate. Seal bones replaced broken brick; found for a dropper copper tube and a piece of rubber. An unusable wash tank with an ordinary water tap screwed in at the bottom instead of a stem went to the fuel tank. It was the most costly and troublesome part of the job: a pipe-threaded hole cost the Soviet trash standard - a bubble. Moreover, the burnout-locksmith did not agree to the "Moscow special" at 2.87, and demanded "Stolichnaya" for 4.12. Apart from explaining to the parents why the 13-year-old boy needed a bottle of vodka.
The potbelly stove was kindled on working off simply - oil was allowed into the bowl until it was shown above the brick. Then a crumpled newspaper was thrust into the furnace. After a minute or two, it was apparently oiled, then set on fire. After another 3-4 minutes. the flame sharply intensified and brightened, as in a kerosene lamp; it was a sign that it was time to drop the drops. A 5-liter washbasin in the spring and autumn was enough for a day of heating and cooking. After 3-4 furnaces, it was necessary to knock out of the bowl the brick crumbs, sintered with sludge into a monolith, but the exhaust was clean, even if you could smell it.
The stove worked properly for 4 years, until the parents were going to move to another city, and was also handed over to the new owner in full working order. What happened to her next is unknown.
Used oil is a cheap and affordable fuel. And the oven obtained from it also does not bite at a price. The stove, on the other hand, is a very economical and, in fact, a universal heating device. And not everyone knows how to tinker, and quite responsible constructions. Are these ovens mass-produced? And if so, how much does a factory kiln cost for working off?
Produced and in constant demand. The world leaders in production are Turkey and Italy. The prices, taking into account the demand for the products, are not small: the stove is only slightly clearer than the first described, costs about $ 1000, and those operating according to the principle: "I fill it, press the button and forget it", with a water-heating circuit - from $ 8000.
There are also domestic household stoves on sale for heavy oil products and oil sludge - KChM, Indigirka, Tunguska and others. But the gas generating hot water boiler "GeKKON" designed by Kurlykov is in the greatest demand, it is mass-produced, and the used engine oil is included in the list of fuels recommended by the manufacturer.
The device of the "GeKKON" boiler is shown in the figure; positions are as follows:
Kurlykov's boiler works on the principle of a flame bowl with afterburning in a tubular chamber. Automatic ignition is not provided, but the height of the chimney is not regulated, and in "GeKKON'e" the most common "sludge" really completely burns out. "GeKKON'y" are produced for power from 15 to 100 kW; manufacturer's price, respectively, from 44,000 to 116,000 rubles.
Note: Kurlykov's boiler is patented. Making it on your own for sale would be an infringement of copyright.
Burning detention is, generally speaking, a palliative. You never know what has accumulated in this oil during operation. But in general, in terms of ecology, the combustion of used engine oils is still preferable to their processing, therefore, in developed countries, from 4% to 12% of processing is spent on combustion; in Russia - 5% of those recorded.
It makes sense to start a furnace for mining also because the technology of obtaining furnace fuel from the same mining and oil sludge is being improved and its price is slowly but surely falling. And if the furnace eats mining, then you can feed it better fuel without any problems.
The development autonomous heating- a serious direction in world environmental policy. Up to 30% of heat is lost in heating mains, and the overall efficiency of heating plants rarely exceeds 60%, and the furnace gives up to 80%. This is not to mention the savings on pipes and earthmoving equipment, and metallurgy is not from pure industries.
A heating device that uses waste engine oil is an economical and simple solution to the problem of heating a garage, workshop, greenhouse and even a home. In addition to the low cost of fuel, which is, in fact, waste, this furnace has a high efficiency. A do-it-yourself stove, drawings, videos and photos of which are presented in this article, can be completely made independently.
The oil stove can be made from a gas cylinder
A device that runs on machine oil is especially popular in car services, where there is always an excess of this raw material.
Advantages of the heater for testing:
Useful information! Many garages that use other types of heating are happy to get rid of waste stocks, since it is difficult to dispose of it.
Cons of using mining:
Self-made devices for testing are of several varieties:
Most often, you can find heaters made from the body of a conventional gas cylinder.
Waste oil stove drawing:
Drip oil supply is a rather complex process that is difficult to reproduce in artisanal conditions. Typically, these ovens are manufactured by industrial manufacturers and can be purchased. The drip-type stove is capricious in terms of fuel purity, so only purified oil is suitable for it.
In such ovens, a special filter is installed for cleaning. Some craftsmen use car fuel filters for this purpose. The drip pump can also be taken from the car by making a return flow to eliminate overpressure... A conventional medical dropper is used to regulate the oil supply.
The oil filler cap and adjusting tools must be within easy reach. To remove exhaust gases, you will need to install an exhaust ventilation hose. The inner diameter of the sleeve must be at least ten centimeters. It is good if the chimney can be easily detached from the stove, so it will be easier to regularly clean the unit.
Note! The end of the ventilation sleeve must be absolutely vertical, otherwise the wind can blow into the pipe and extinguish the flame. The height of the vertical section is at least four meters.
Before starting the heater, it is necessary to check the integrity of the ventilation and the absence of unnecessary objects in the device. To speed up the firing procedure, a little lighter fluid or kerosene can be added to the fuel compartment.
After five to ten minutes, the stove will begin to heat up and the fuel will boil. After starting the process, it is important to monitor the stove and add fuel periodically.
Note! The gap in the hole in the firebox should be no more than one and a half centimeters, so soot will not get into the room.
To stop the operation of the device, simply stop the oil supply. A fire extinguisher is used for urgent extinguishing. It is not recommended to extinguish oil ovens with water.
How to properly ignite the furnace during testing, video:
The heater must be cleaned during testing at least once a month. For this purpose, the device is disassembled, soot is removed from the inner walls and the chimney. After cleaning, all joints are coated with sealant.
It is important to remember that a waste oil stove is a device that, if safety measures are not followed, can harm property and human health. That is why it follows:
Useful information! For self-emergency fire extinguishing, you can prepare a solution of twenty-five liters of water, eight kilograms of salt and four and a half kilograms of ammonia. This mixture is stored in hermetically sealed half-liter bottles. In the event of an emergency fire, the bottles are forcibly thrown into the fire zone so that they break. The gas formed from the mixture will extinguish the fire.
The heater for secondary engine oil has the following main structural elements:
You can make your own oil stove. For this purpose, a faulty one-piece gas cylinder is required.
For work you will need:
Related article:
In a separate publication, we will talk about the right choice this device according to its tasks and budget.
How to make a stove for testing:
The oven is painted with a mixture of chalk, silicate glue and aluminum powder.
Having studied the drawings and videos of making a stove for working off with your own hands, we can say with confidence that nothing is impossible. Assembling the oil-fired stove does not take long.
Such a heating unit is an invaluable device for a garage or technical service station, where mining is waste material. It is only important to observe safety measures and properly operate the device.
Heating a private house without gas and electricity: an overview of methods 
Wood-burning stoves: an overview of designs from various materials
When an affordable and economical way of heating is needed, many people think about making a stove-stove that runs on waste oil. In this article, you will find a description of the typical design, as well as ways to increase the efficiency of the device and make the oven more autonomous.
Waste oil incineration was originally only one of the available funds its disposal. Craftsmen could not pass by such an energy-intensive fuel and created stoves in which oil burns with minimal formation of soot and soot.
1 - waste oil; 2 - lower container for oil; 3 - damper for air supply regulation; 4 - a pipe with holes for air; 5 - combustion chamber; 6 - top container; 7 - partition; 8 - chimney
Any oil or fuel oil can be used as fuel, as well as some pasty lubricants... Volatile liquids such as kerosene, gasoline or solvents cannot be used in the oven, but small amounts can be used for ignition.
Structurally, the oil furnace consists of two combustion chambers connected by a fairly wide perforated pipe. Since most furnaces are made from scrap materials and scrap metal, it makes no sense to adhere to strict dimensions, the proportions of individual structural elements are much more important.
The lower chamber of the furnace is a tank of arbitrary shape, which, when filled to 2/3, can hold 5-7 liters of fuel. Furnace power and fuel combustion rate are directly proportional to the area of the lower chamber. The frequency of adding oil to the furnace depends on its capacity, therefore, the lower chamber is often made very voluminous, up to 20-30 liters. This downward shift of the center of gravity also ensures the stability of the structure.
3 or 4 legs with bolts at the ends are welded to the bottom of the chamber so that it is possible to adjust the installation level. Also, the oil supply pipe cuts into the bottom, which bends into a siphon for a water seal. It makes sense to lead the end of the tube into an adjacent container of approximately the same size, which acts as a fuel tank. The bottom of the tank should be 2-3 cm below the bottom of the stove to allow the oil to drain completely.
In the upper wall of the lower chamber, a hole with a movable flap must be cut to adjust the incoming air and, accordingly, the oil heating temperature. Also, a pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm and a length of 35-70 cm is cut into the upper wall. Holes with a diameter of 12-16 mm are made on its surface in 6 or 8 rows at a distance of 7-10 cm from each other.
The upper chamber of the furnace usually duplicates the size and shape of the lower one, but it can be much larger. The higher the internal volume, the more complete combustion can be achieved, but in a chamber that is too spacious, the temperature will be insufficient.
It should be remembered that the manufacture of the furnace and its further refinement are of a purely experimental nature, the same product, depending on the placement conditions, can work with different efficiency. Over time, from a simple stove for heating a garage or workshop, such a stove can turn into a full-fledged heating unit for the whole house, capable of operating in automatic mode. To do this, the furnace is equipped with a drip oil supply, a water heat exchanger or forced pressurization.
To increase the efficiency of the furnace, two types of air fans are used: pressurization and external blowing. The latter option is appropriate if a room that is impressive in terms of area is heated by a stove and it is not necessary to count on natural air convection. In this case, a conventional fan helps the case to give off heat more efficiently, the air flow is directed to the place of greatest heat.
Internal airflow is designed to enrich the upper chamber with oxygen, which contributes to a deeper disintegration of fuel particles, as well as its longer combustion. With the use of forced airflow, the so-called "blue flame" appears, indicating a smokeless combustion process.
Air injection is carried out as usual. duct fan productivity from 250 m 3 per hour. It is usually placed on the floor next to the oven and connected to the upper chamber with a rigid air duct with a diameter of 100 or 110 mm. To connect the air duct, a piece of pipe of the required diameter is cut into the upper chamber, into which a damper is inserted to regulate the air flow. To avoid counter-draft, it is recommended to install a sensitive non-return valve immediately after the fan.
Often, an oil stove is used as a boiler for water heating. This is possible after installing a heat exchanger in the upper combustion chamber. For good heat transfer, you will need a container of impressive size - about 30-50 liters. A heat exchanger is mounted inside the chamber, it can be a coil or a system of pipes made of steel, or an internal tank.
Due to the fact that the passage of combustion products near the heat exchanger is difficult, soot and soot are formed much faster, condensation may also appear during the ignition process. To facilitate cleaning, the heat exchanger must have at least one flange connection sealed with an asbestos cord.
The role of the coolant in the system is usually assigned to antifreeze or special fluids... The coolant must constantly move, therefore, a circulation pump is built into the heating circuit.
For an oil stove, it is very important to have a stable and powerful draft, therefore the chimney height should be at least 4 meters. Usually, a steel pipe with a diameter of 100 mm or more is used for the installation of a chimney.
No more than two turns of the chimney are allowed, but only with the correct arrangement of connections at the corners and only from a vertical direction to a horizontal one. The turns must be made through tees installed on vertical segments. One of the branches of the tee must point straight down and have a removable metal plug to collect the resulting condensation.
The final vertical segment of the chimney can be made of an asbestos-cement pipe, but a brick protective well will be required to a height of 2-2.5 meters.
For ignition, you can use paper or rags, or easily flammable liquids. In the first case, oil should be added in small portions to the combustion center. In the second, add a small amount (50-70 grams) of solvent or gasoline to the first chamber, which is 2/3 filled with oil, and set it on fire with a lighter with a long torch as soon as possible, without waiting for the formation of explosive vapors.
In operation, the oil furnace is completely fireproof, its design does not allow the formation of an open flame. However, there is a danger of oil being thrown out of the chamber by overflow or water ingress.
About once a month, you need to clean the furnace: remove the carbon deposits in a container with oil, after knocking the furnace with a hammer. In the upper chamber, especially in the presence of a heat exchanger, soot accumulates faster and is poorly chipped off; it must be brushed off with a metal brush. For ease of maintenance and cleaning, it is recommended to make the camera bodies detachable. For example, using double collar caps. The connection of the stove to the chimney and the fan must also be detachable.
In the life of people, there is a tendency to "return to the origins", due to "increased savings" on anything.
This disease also touched upon the topic of heating with heating.
And so, in the 21st century, we are witnessing the rebirth of a home-made heating unit.
It's about a stove that uses waste oil as fuel.
The first working furnace appeared in the time of Khrushchev. He was an ambiguous personality. With that intensive growth in the mechanization of all kinds of production processes, with that new opportunity for each citizen to acquire personal transport, with that increased distribution of summer cottages, the problem of heating was acute.
Fuel at that time was worth a penny, but even pennies at that time were called money. And there was very little that could be obtained at that time without the application of effort. There was no question of deforestation: they were imprisoned for this, and the gas in cylinders was a kind of exoticism. Therefore, it became necessary to create homemade oven that would run on affordable and inexpensive fuel.
Craftsmen did not think for a long time about the principle of work: they took kerogas as a basis, since it was in abundance on summer cottages and in private homes. Kerosene vapors were burned out in a separate chamber, so the use of kerosene gas was more or less safe. A pungent smell of soot that appeared long before a possible accident helped to avoid an explosive situation.
The waste oil stove, with a few exceptions, works according to the same principle, the craftsmen had only to figure out how to burn out the processed fuel to the end in the simplest ways.
In the 60s, burning fuel to carbon dioxide was already considered safe for health and the environment. Today, with the growing threat of the greenhouse effect, this is unacceptable. It is impossible to burn fuel so that no harmful vapors remain, therefore, the efficiency of a home-made stove acquires unique environmental significance.
If we compare the quality of fuel from the times of the USSR, then the XXI century is losing again. Engine oil in those years was a natural rectified hydrocarbon. For this reason alone, harmful vapors were formed at most by individual molecules in the oven.
Today's fuel is much more harmful, and the stove of today is capable of emitting nitrogen oxides in quantities hazardous to health and the environment.
In mining stoves, combustion occurs not in one, but in two stages. For this, two combustion chambers are organized. In the first - working off is slowly burning; in the second, vapors from the working off burn, mixed with air. It is this combustible composition that emits a large amount of heat.
To establish the necessary combustion, establish a moderate air supply to the first chamber.(in which the working off is burning). This is done using a regulating flap. In the second chamber, air is supplied through a series of holes in the pipe connecting both chambers.
The furnace for testing is included in the class of the simplest devices, does not require unnecessary maintenance and any kind of service... It is a one-piece construction that can only be disassembled at the bottom - especially for cleaning.
Estimated dimensions of a standard stove:
Furnace production starts from the bottom chamber... It is combined in a stove with a fuel tank, on the lid of which special holes are made for filling the mining and for a pipe connecting the first chamber with the second.
According to the dimensions shown in the figure, they cut out the parts of the primary combustion chamber, grind the edges and weld them. The walls are made from a pipe blank.
Corners are welded to them, which will become legs, a sheet of metal is welded to the bottom. A 10 cm hole is cut in the center, and another 6 cm from the side, closer to the edge. If desired, do removable cover- this makes it easier to clean the tank.
Up to 50 holes with a diameter of 9 mm are drilled in a pipe 36 cm long and 10 cm in diameter evenly over the entire area of the pipe so that the air flow is the same on each side.
The pre-drilled pipe is welded perpendicularly to the tank lid. An air damper is made on the lower tank. Secure it with a bolt or rivet. Through this hole, the furnace will be fired up and the mining will be filled.
The upper tank is made in the same way as the lower one. In the plate, which is attached to the bottom of the tank, a hole with a diameter of 10 cm is made, offset to one of the edges. A piece of pipe with a large diameter from the hole is welded to the hole at the bottom just enough so that it can be put on the perforated upper combustion chamber.
Since the top tank lid is exposed to the highest temperatures, it is recommended that it be made of metal with a minimum thickness of 6mm. In the upper part of the tank, a hole is made for the chimney, which is opposite to the hole in the bottom. A plate of thick metal is placed between them - a cutter. It is inserted closer to the chimney opening.
A pipe is welded to the top cover, which then joins the chimney. To improve the stability of the structure, a spacer is welded from a pipe or corner. You can paint the oven with metal paint that can withstand high temperatures.
A blower oven is the same heating appliance, only equipped with a fan... It is located closer to the second combustion chamber. The pressurization ensures uniform heating of the room.
It is difficult to assemble a drip oven. The same mechanism is used for industrial heating devices. Models of this kind reduce the amount of fuel used.
Modern folk craftsmen have learned to combine a drip mechanism with pressurization. However, it is strongly not recommended to assemble such a unit without the appropriate skills.
The finished oven is installed on flat surface- it is concreted or laid out with bricks... The minimum distance from flammable items is 1 m. It should be level and plumb. There should be no distortions. Position the mining bay hole at an angle for easy access.
The chimney is best positioned vertically, its minimum length is 4 m. The more, the better the traction will be. Outer part the chimney must be insulated.
The installed furnace will operate on any type of waste oil. Fill up with fuel no more than half the tank. Ignition takes place with the help of fireplace matches, lowered into the opening of the tank. After ignition, a period of time is expected with the damper half open so that the steam mixes with the oxygen. Then it regulates the further flow of air for stable combustion.
The working furnace is good for heating garages and similar premises, but in residential buildings it is impossible to heat it - oxygen in the room will be burned out due to the heated metal surface stoves. Therefore, in such cases, the heating device is taken out to a separate room or boiler room.
Another way to improve the efficiency of the heating unit is oxygen convection. It is realized through the use of pressurization. The drip system of mining will help to save fuel.
The cost of materials and equipment for self-production
Apart from the prices for equipment that every conscientious owner has (a grinder and a welding machine), the cost of expendable materials will be around 3375 rubles. Calculations were based on the latest prices:
A waste oil stove is a great thing for owners of garages, auto repair shops and other similar premises. The stove is not just a heating device that does not require space fuel costs, but a device that solves a number of environmental issues. In addition, it is used as an oven for heating food (the top lid gains a sufficient temperature for this).
In conclusion, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with a video on the manufacture of a working furnace.
Prefabricated ovens
The constant rise in prices for traditional blue fuel makes it necessary to look for alternative sources of heat for heating. Rich in carbon and other combustible components, honestly exhausted its resource, engine oil is an excellent fuel and may well claim to be a replacement for other sources of thermal energy.
Simple in design and quite affordable for creating at home, a working oven will allow you to use, in fact, a free product, while saving a considerable amount. According to numerous reviews, such stoves work well with diesel fuel and other refractory products, including liquid tar, grease, etc.
According to the principle of operation, the waste oil oven is pyrolysis. Under the influence of temperature, complex nitrogen-carbon chains of oil molecules are first split into elementary chemical elements, then oxidized by atmospheric oxygen, and finally - cooled, simultaneously transforming into completely harmless nitrogen and water vapor.
Despite the fact that the design of the stove is a little more complicated than the device of the pan, very complicated processes take place in it and the violation of the conditions for their flow can easily lead to the appearance of very dangerous nitrogen oxides, known as laughing gas.
If all the dimensions and shape of the stove are correct, the combustion of fuel will be very effective and there is almost no need to clean the chimney from soot and soot.
Structurally, the stove includes three main zones:
For a deeper understanding of the work, consider a proven and very common design of a simple homemade stove.
The lower chamber is a flat container filled with oil. After the stove goes into operation, the top layer of oil boils, the resulting steam ignites. A lot of turbulent flows are formed in the combustion zone, which play the role of a throttle, preventing the free flow of the burning mixture into the second zone. Self-regulation turns out. In addition, under the action of the Coriolis force, it is turbulent flows that swirl the burning gases into a vortex flow, which plays a decisive role in subsequent physical processes.
The air necessary for burning the oil enters through an opening with a damper. By opening the damper, you can adjust the combustion speed and heat output of the stove. When the damper is fully closed, the oven will gradually dim.
Having twisted into a tourniquet, burning oil vapors enter the second zone, where their high-temperature afterburning takes place. The chamber is a pipe of a certain diameter and height. For practically unlimited air access, many holes are made in the pipe. Rotating gases are actively mixed with oxygen, the oxidation process is very violent and the temperature of this zone can easily rise to 800-900 degrees and above. At this temperature, the nitrogen activity exceeds the oxygen activity, and a large amount of harmful nitrogen and carbon oxides is formed in the upper part of the second zone.
The upper chamber of the stove during mining performs two functions at once. First, there is the final oxygen afterburning of unburned pyrolysis residues. Secondly, the special design of the upper chamber provides a lowering temperature jump, during which nitrogen loses its activity and is again displaced by oxygen. As a result, completely harmless gaseous nitrogen, hot water vapor and solid particles of carbon monoxide are obtained at the outlet of the stove, which are discharged into the chimney and partially settle on its walls in the form of soot.
To ensure that all processes take place in strict accordance with theory, and the combustion products do not pose a danger, it is best to use ready-made drawings of a proven design, the effectiveness and safety of which has been confirmed by more than one dozen enthusiasts.
Best material for the stove body - heat-resistant or refractory structural steel.
For the lower chamber, 4 mm steel will suffice. And the upper and middle chambers, the heating temperature of which is much higher, the thickness of the material should be taken at least 5.5 mm. All parts are welded with a continuous seam. Cameras, both top and bottom, can be square, but circular section and the length of the chamber in the middle is a prerequisite for a stable process of high-temperature oxygen combustion. Usually they use a piece of thick-walled steel pipe suitable diameter.
For reliable removal of combustion products, a chimney with a height of at least 4 m is needed. For greater efficiency of heating the air in the room, the chimney can have inclined sections that go at an angle of up to 45 degrees. But the more the chimney slope, the more soot settles in it. The design and dimensions of all elements are shown in the schematic drawing below.
To make the stove yourself, you will need:
You can make your own paint for the furnace during testing. To do this, mix half a liter of liquid glass (it is necessary to use construction silicate glue), 200 g of silver (aluminum powder), 20 g of ground chalk. By selecting the proportion of chalk, we achieve the desired paint consistency. This paint will turn out to be heat-resistant, and is suitable for working with elevated temperatures. You can also use heat-resistant silicone paints and enamels, such as Celsit-500, Certa.
After staining, the stove with waste oil gets an elegant, almost factory appearance.
To increase the efficiency of heating the room, it is required to ensure a more intensive selection of excess heat from the stove. This can be done in two ways:
Heat is removed in the upper zone, where the temperature reaches its maximum. Both options have already been developed and below are the most successful and simple designs such stoves.
The photo clearly shows how the additional chamber for heating the air is organized. The partitions form a kind of labyrinth and lengthen the path of passage through the heated zone. The air blast chamber is welded on top of the upper combustion chamber. According to the assurances of the developers, the efficiency of heating the room is more than doubled.
Instead of an air maze, you can weld a water boiler. The heated water will have to be pumped into the radiators, but the increase in the efficiency of heating the room is worth it.
Considering the high openness of the flame and the high heating temperature, the working oven is a source of increased danger. Therefore, a carbon dioxide fire extinguisher near her is not a whim of a fire inspector, but a vital necessity.
To light the stove, pour a little flammable liquid, such as thinner or gasoline, on top of the oil. Very little is poured - so that the initial flame is enough for the appearance of oil vapors.
It is very important to prevent water from entering the boiling oil. It is easy to understand what this will lead to, remembering what happens if a drop of water accidentally falls into a frying pan with hot oil. The source of water can be a saucepan or kettle on the stove, frost or condensation accumulated on the inner surfaces in cold weather. It is not recommended to use other flammable liquids of unknown origin instead of oil.
The simplicity of the design and operation of the furnace during development makes it extremely attractive for craftsmen, and the low cost of fuel and its low consumption - very profitable from the economic point of view.
Subject to basic rules safe operation this device may well become the main source of heat for outbuildings, utility rooms, and even summer cottages for seasonal living.
