Quite often, when choosing a drainage system, the question arises of which one to install - plastic or metal. Very often, one of the reasons for not using plastic gutters is that they burst in winter.
Let's see if this is really the case and why it happens.
We note right away: indeed, sometimes plastic gutters burst, but this does not mean at all that they are of poor quality or worse than metal ones.
Any material shrinks or expands when the temperature changes. For example, frozen water turns into ice and expands. The same thing happens with gutters, only without changing the state of aggregation - they change size. The coefficient of linear expansion of plastic is significantly higher than that of steel, that is plastic gutter changes its size depending on the temperature drop environment more than steel. Linear expansion coefficient - important parameter, which must be taken into account when installing and operating the drain.
Different manufacturers of plastic systems have different installation technology: some use an adhesive connection, others use a connection with rubber seals. In the first case, all elements are rigidly fixed to each other with glue, which does not allow the system to "walk". When installing such a drainage system, it is imperative to install special elements that will compensate for these expansions. In the second case, the role of expansion elements is played by connecting elements with rubber seals, which exclude leaks at the connection points and at the same time maintain the mobility of the system.
To increase the service life of rubber seals, manufacturers recommend using silicone, it prevents premature aging of the rubber seals and provides free sliding of the elements during expansion. It is important to clarify that you need to use silicone paste, it acts as a lubricant for rubber bands, and not a silicone sealant, which hardens after some time.
Let's deal with a real situation: we install a gutter on the eaves of a house 10 m long in summer at a temperature of 20 ° C. Linear expansion coefficient of plastic (polyvinyl chloride) 70 * 10 -6 ° С -1. In winter, the temperature drops to -20 ° С, i.e. the temperature difference was 40 ° С. With such a change in temperature, the change in the length of a 10-meter plastic gutter will be (10 m * 40 ° C * 70 * 10 -6 ° C -1) 28 mm!
Under the same conditions, the change in the length of the metal trough will be only 4.8 mm (the coefficient of linear expansion of steel is 12 * 10 -6 ° С -1).
This is theory, but what about practice? In practice, when the plastic gutter has nowhere to expand or contract, it does it anyway, as a result of which the most loaded elements burst, for example, the corners of the gutters.
During operation, it is imperative to maintain drainage systems: Remove foliage that has accumulated in pipes and gutters. If this is not done, foliage and any other debris impede the movement of rainwater, which accumulates in the elements of the drainage system, and when freezing, all this turns into ice, which, as already said, expands in volume, which is why deformation occurs, and elements burst.
Expansions also occur in steel gutters, but due to the fact that they are not so significant, and steel is stronger than plastic, the gutter elements do not burst.
So, we figured out two main reasons why in winter period plastic gutters burst:
1. The inability of the drain to expand linearly with temperature changes;
2. "Garbage" in the system, which prevents the drainage of water from the drain.
To avoid such problems, in the first case, it is enough to follow the installation instructions of a particular manufacturer: use expansion elements; use adhesives and sealants only for those elements for which such a need is indicated. In the second case, it is imperative to audit and maintain drains 2 times a year - in spring and autumn before the onset of frost.
We hope that our article will help you choose a drainage system and avoid problems with its operation in the future.
A drainage system is necessary to remove sediment from pitched roofs... If all the rules of installation and operation are followed, its service life is from 5 to 12 years. It often happens that recently installed system damaged and not only looks ugly, but also does not fulfill its main function. This is due to violations of the installation and installation technologies. This article will help you understand the basic rules for installing a plastic gutter system, ensuring the reliable operation of the gutter for the entire warranty period and even longer.
All manufacturers of drainage systems must include installation instructions, which indicate all the features and nuances. Therefore, when buying, be sure to ask the seller for instructions. But all systems have general rules installation that cannot be neglected.
The main function of the drainage system falls on pipes and gutters. In order to attach them to the roof or connect them together, various accessories are used. These include: brackets, plugs, elbows, funnels, and more. Therefore, the procedure for installing a plastic drainage system consists in attaching accessories and basic elements in a clear sequence.
See also: How.
Installation of a drainage system made of plastic
Stage 1. Installation of water inlet funnels
It is necessary to determine the number and location of drainpipes. After that, in those places where the gutters will be located, it is necessary to install water intake funnels. Installation begins with funnels in systems in which the inlet funnels also function as a gutter connector. In this case, there are devices at the ends of the funnel that tightly connect it to the gutter. For glue systems, this can be the place where the glue is applied or rubber seals for other types of plastic gutters. TO roof structure funnels are self-attached using brackets. Therefore, it is with them that the installation of the drainage system begins.
Such funnels are attached with brackets to the roof structure. Therefore, editing begins with them. If you have purchased a gutter system with funnels that need to be attached directly to the gutter and not to the roof structure, then the inlet funnels are installed after the gutters have been installed.
Before installing the gutter, a hole must be cut out at the place where the water intake funnel is attached. To do this, you need to apply a contour, cut a hole with a fine-toothed hacksaw and clean the edges. The funnel can then be attached to the gutter.
Step 2. Mounting brackets
It is necessary to fix the brackets (gutter holders) at the distance recommended in the installation instructions. As a rule, plastic gutters require a distance of 50-60 cm. It is necessary to fix the brackets in such a way that the slope of the gutters towards the funnel is about 2-3 mm. For this, the extreme holder of the gutter is installed at the highest point, a cord is pulled between it and the funnel, and, focusing on it, the remaining brackets are attached.
The holders must be attached to the wind (frontal) board. Make sure it is level before installation. An unevenly installed frontal board can adversely affect plastic gutters and their performance. If at the time when you will install the plastic drainage system, it has not yet been laid roof covering, then the bracket mounts can be mounted on the rafter leg.
Usually, plastic gutter holders are used for mounting on a windboard, and metal holders for mounting to rafters. On average, one holder can carry up to 75 kg. Often this figure is misleading for many, and they take, in their opinion, the right decision in terms of economy - to install a smaller number of holders. This is one of the main mistakes when installing a drainage system. Because what matters is not the weight that the bracket can support, but the gutter support area.
If this factor is not taken into account, the consequences will be very deplorable: the gutters are twisted, then sag, and after a while they simply break off. Therefore, such "savings" will result in partial or even complete replacement of holders and gutters.
Stage 3. Installation of the gutter
Now you need to put the gutters into the holders, starting from the funnel. Insert the edge of the gutter firmly into the latch located on the edge of the gutter holder, then press down slightly until the structure snaps into place. Tightly connect the gutters to each other using solders, special adhesives or connecting elements (depending on the type of system chosen). And do not forget that in glued systems, after complete assembly it will no longer be possible to dismantle or re-install.
In order to cut the gutters of the plastic drainage system, you must use a grinder or a hacksaw. Then clean the burrs with a file.
When installing the gutter, its edge must be located below the roof extension line. This will avoid the "overflow" of water in a rainstorm. Also, the minimum amount of snow sliding from the roof will fall there.
Stage 4. Installation of a drip
The dropper is being installed. It provides a free outlet of water from the under-roof space and directs it into the gutters. The dropper is mounted to the rafter leg, going into the gutter by 1.5-2 cm.
Step 5. Installing the side plugs
Now you need to fix the corners to the gutters in those places where you need to go around the protruding parts of the facade or the corner of the house. After that, side plugs are attached to the ends of the gutter.
Stage 6. Installation of plastic gutters
We begin to install plastic gutters. This is done from the funnel, that is, from top to bottom. The pipes must be attached to the wall so that the distance between them is from 3 to 8 cm.
Stage 7. Assembling the drainage system
Using couplings, it is necessary to assemble the pipes into one piece and fasten them with clamps to the wall every 1-2 m (see the supplier's recommendations in the instructions).
Step 8. Installation of tees
If necessary, tees (pipe splitters) are installed at this stage.
Step 9. Installation of the drain
Installation of a drain pipe outlet (drain). Leave at least 30 cm between the ground and the drain.If you plan to install a linear drainage system, then leave 15 cm.
The gutters are installed using the following tools:
- Roulette.
- Ruler.
- Pencil.
- Hammer.
- Cord.
- Hacksaw.
- Screwdriver.
Installation of the drainage system and temperature conditions
It is forbidden to install plastic gutters at temperatures below 5 ° C. Otherwise, the pipes may crack from mechanical stress when cutting or fastening. Many plastic gutters cannot be stored in the open sun in their packaging.
Contamination of gutters
When debris or leaves enter the gutter, the movement of water along the gutter is limited. Because of this, the system overflows, and in the future the walls of the building become wet, and over time, the foundation may also be washed away. To prevent such undesirable consequences, it is enough just to install a grate-leaf catcher. And plastic gutters are protected from clogging by installing a collection of garbage and leaves directly into the water intake funnel.
Icing
This phenomenon is fraught with deformation and collapse of the entire system. To prevent it, a cable anti-icing system is installed. First, it is necessary to calculate the power of the heating cable and the required number of its lines. The cable can be with a regulator or self-regulating.
Overflow
Overflow occurs when the size of the pipes and gutters is not able to handle the amount of precipitation that is likely to occur in a particular area. To prevent overfilling, when choosing a system, follow the recommendations of the manufacturer directly from which you will purchase it.
Now you know all the basic nuances of installing a plastic drainage system. Follow the instructions carefully and you will undoubtedly be able to install plastic gutters in your home yourself.
The gutter is an integral element of the roof, the main task which is the collection and withdrawal of precipitation. There are the most different materials manufacture of structures, but recently it was plastic gutters that began to gain popularity. And we'll tell you why.
To begin with, it is necessary to note the high reliability of plastic products. This factor is one of the most important, since even with the minimum cost of the entire system, its installation and repair can be quite difficult. Judging by this criterion, then galvanized steel gutters are no longer so attractive, and plastic, on the contrary, has all the necessary qualities. For example, the service life of such products reaches an average of 20-25 years, while during the entire period of operation, all parts of the structure retain their characteristics with minimal maintenance.
The second important advantage is climate resilience. If we talk about metal, then it, being under the influence of water and air, over time begins to become covered with rust - a thin layer of a special coating protects steel products from the appearance of red spots. In the presence of cracks and scratches, the coating loses its protective properties, and the entire gutter from the inside is covered with rust. Plastic gutters do not require any protection and do not lose their properties even in a wide temperature range (from –40 ° C to +50 ° C).
Also important feature modern plastic pipes for gutters, it is resistant to ultraviolet radiation, which negatively affects most synthetic materials. Another plus is that plastic has low adhesive properties, and therefore ice in such a drain will not accumulate. Plastic gutters can also have a variety of appearance... This issue is very relevant, since they are an important element of building decoration and can not only decorate the facade, but also spoil it.
Plastic products open up tremendous opportunities for designers, since you can easily choose not only the color, but also the shape of the products.
The fourth and rather important advantage of the plastic roof drainage system is that they are extremely lightweight - compare them with metal systems doesn't even make sense. In addition, the low weight of the products greatly facilitates their installation. So, in order to competently assemble and install the system, you do not need to have specialized knowledge and technology - even a non-specialist will cope with the work, and this will not in any way affect the service life of the pipes.
Plastic gutters have not only visible advantages, but also disadvantages, which must also be remembered when choosing a material. The main disadvantages include the following:
Plastic gutters are installed in several stages. First of all, you need to determine the location of the funnels, after which the length and the required number of gutters and the pipes themselves are calculated.
If you use a funnel as a structural element of the structure, then you must first install it. Otherwise, you cannot do without mounting brackets for fixing the gutter on the frontal board... By the way, the brackets can be adjusted when fastening, making it easy to achieve the required slope of the gutter (about 3-5%). The distance between the brackets should not be less than 0.5 m, while they must be in contact with the gutter.
The installation of the gutter itself begins from the receiving funnel, and all elements of the system are fastened together either with couplings or with special glue. The next step is to install the downpipes and fix them to the wall using couplings. Do not forget to protect the gutter from debris, for which you need to use a mesh that is put inside the gutter and fixed with plastic clips.
The roof drainage system made of plastic products is sufficient original version, which can be used for various outbuildings on the site, sheds, outbuildings or. The main condition is a large number plastic bottles... The required amount can be calculated quite simply, since for the arrangement of the system we only need the central part of the container, the length of which is on average 20 cm - what is the length of the pipe, take as many bottles.
Since water in the system leaves the pipes under the action of gravity, experts recommend taking bottles, the central part of which does not have protrusions or other obstacles for water. Otherwise, in winter time a layer of ice will begin to build up inside the drain, which can cause system destruction. PET bottles with a cylindrical center work best. It is advisable to choose a dark color so that small debris and smudges inside the pipe are not visible. To implement
We also need a construction stapler, with which we will connect the elements of our structure, wire for attaching the structure itself to the roof. And, of course, scissors and a knife - these tools are needed to cut plastic containers. We will use the flat cylindrical part as a horizontal gutter, and instead of plugs that will not allow water to pass further, it is best to take bottles with the back part preserved.
We measure the length of the pipe and create a simple drawing of the future structure. Despite the fact that the drain will be located almost under the roof, you need to put all the bottles in order - to clean them of dirt and wash off the labels, for which you simply soak the container in warm soapy water for 1-2 hours. Cut off the bottom and neck of each container. To get a part of the gutter, cut one of the resulting cylinders along the seam - you should end up with a folded plastic rectangle.
We connect all the details of our structure with a construction stapler with an overlap so that the double strip is at least 1 cm. For reliability, you can make several holes in the overlap strip by stitching it with wire. If you are afraid that water will ooze through them, for the first time you can cover them with plasticine - after a while everything will be overgrown with dirt, forming natural insulation.
Next, we attach the drain to the roof. We make holes at an equal distance in the slate and in the gutter, using a soldering iron for this. The main thing is that the holes are located opposite each other. In them we pass the wire and twist it well. Thus, the entire gutter will be held in place by the retaining wire.
To prevent water from flowing down the walls, you cannot do without a drain. To do this, cut off the neck of one of the bottles, and make a cylinder from the second (remove the bottom and neck). The bottles need to be connected, while from the first it is necessary to cut a hole of the same diameter as in the rest of the containers - the edge of the gutter will enter there.
What to look for when installing a steel gutter.
Firstly, water flowing freely from the eaves of the roof will fall on the walls of the house, any material will suffer from this, be it brick, concrete, wood or cement plaster.
Secondly, moisture will inevitably seep into the ground, which over time can lead to subsidence of the blind area and even the foundation of the house.
Thirdly, in the absence of high-quality waterproofing of the foundation, water will enter the underground premises of the house - the basement or the underground, because of this, the structures will rot, and the microclimate in the house itself will deteriorate.
Finally, it is worth noting the decorative properties of the gutter, gutter and pipes - traditional architectural elements of the building, thanks to their presence, the house looks more aesthetically pleasing and solid. If your home still doesn't have a gutter system, it's not too late to install one. You can do this yourself, but it is better to turn to professionals, they will calculate, based on the catchment area, the required number of gutters and pipes, as well as their diameter, select the necessary fasteners and parts to ensure the rigidity of the structure.
For the production of drainage systems, galvanized steel with a polymer coating, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), copper and zinc-titanium alloy are used today. Each of the materials has its own characteristics. Steel gutters are still the most widespread.
They are affordable, but when purchasing them, you need to pay close attention to the thickness of the metal and the type of polymer coating, the resistance to corrosion, mechanical stress, ultraviolet radiation and temperature changes largely depends on the latter. PVC drainage systems are quite actively used, they are inexpensive, non-corrosive, resistant to precipitation and UV radiation, as well as mechanical damage... Their weak side is the color fading under the sun's rays; after 2-3 years, plastic gutters lose their appearance.
Pipes and gutters made of copper and zinc-titanium look respectable, besides, they practically do not corrode. However, the cost of such gutters is quite high, and they require the most careful handling, since both copper and zinc are soft metals.
The main disadvantage is a significant change in size with temperature drops (the change in length is about 0.7 mm per 1 running meter with a temperature fluctuation of 10 ° C).
To level it, special compensating elements and constructive measures are needed. A not so serious, but unpleasant minus for the owners is the loss of the original color by the plastic parts (the side of the gutters and pipes facing the sun acquires an ashen tint over time). The more expensive the gutter, the higher its color fastness, cheap products lose their appearance after 2-3 years.
As for the rest of the parts, their availability in the kit depends on the manufacturer. The wider the range, the easier it will be to arrange a drainage system on a roof of a complex configuration. When purchasing brackets, be sure to ask what type of installation they are designed for and whether they are suitable for you - often you come across those that can only be used for fastening to eaves or only to the first row of the crate.
Pay attention to additional accessories, they will make the gutter more reliable. So, a special mesh insert that protects against fallen leaves will prevent the pipe from clogging. When making an estimate, take into account all the elements you need - the total price of fasteners may be higher than the cost of pipes and gutters.
Details of the drainage system: 1-8 - gutter holders; 9.11 - gutters; 10 - gutter connector; 12 - plug; 13 - connector bracket; 14 - funnel; 15.16 - gutter corners; 17.19 - knees, 18 - branch pipe; 20-manifold pipe with spout; 21.22 - gutter overflow limiters; 23.24 - pipe clamps. 25 - pipe; 26 - tee; 27 - connecting sleeve; 28 - universal adapter; 29.32 - drainage trawls; 30 - clamp bracket; 31 - drain knee.
from a roof with a slope projection area of not more than 150 m2, water can be discharged through one pipe with a diameter of 100 mm with a gutter with a diameter of 150 mm. It should also be borne in mind that the throughput of the pipe depends on the diameter, length and number of troughs that it serves. There are other factors that affect the drainage capacity, such as roof configuration, slope length and slope.
It is recommended to install the drainage system in two stages: during roofing works hang the gutters, and after finishing the walls, install the pipes.The first stage (installation of gutters).
1. Attach the first gutter holder so that the outer edge of the gutter is 30 mm below the roof slope line (support wedges are used to compensate for the slope of the wind board).
2. Set the last holder to the water level 20 mm lower than the first (total length of the gutter 6 m).
3. Pull the cord between the shelves of the outer holders and, guided by it, screw the rest of the holders.
4. Make the markings, use a metal hacksaw to cut a hole for the water intake funnel.
5. Glue the funnel and gutter plugs with dichloroethane adhesive.
6. Install the chute by sequentially snapping it into the holders.
The second stage (fastening of pipes).
7. Drill holes in the walls, screw the brackets with screws 120 mm long and 6 mm in diameter, attach the pipes to them with clamps.
8. From two elbows and a branch pipe, assemble the "swan neck". Attach the drain elbow using glue.
Water should be diverted from the house at least 3-4 m.In no case should it be left to drain onto the blind area, then it will inevitably seep into basements and into the foundation. Therefore, the gutter device will not bring the desired benefits. In addition to the drainage system itself, it is necessary to provide for a water drainage system. The easiest option is to arrange surface drainage along the blind area. This will require ready-made drainage channels with protective grids made of corrosion-resistant materials (polymer concrete, plastic). If groundwater on the site are high, a closed drainage system is preferable (to drain the soil around the house) with point surface receivers under the outflows of roof drain pipes. Drainage systems allow you to direct water into roadside ditches or into a receiving well on the site.
The first is to correctly insulate the roof, ensuring ventilation of the roof space.
The second is to place the gutter and pipe fasteners in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
An additional, but by no means superfluous, measure is to install snow-retaining bumpers along the edges of the slopes.
Operation of buildings and structures without an effective eastern system installed leads to critical damage to very important architectural elements... First of all, basements suffer, then the foundation and basement of the building begin to collapse. The bearing capacity of these structures is significantly reduced, as a result of which cracks appear on the facade walls.
But this is not all the problems caused by high humidity soils around the house. With a significant increase in the amount of water during freezing, the swelling of soils far exceeds the calculated maximum values. If the foundation has a large margin of safety, and the building is constructed of lightweight materials, then there may be only minor problems with opening / closing windows and doors. But if the walls are made of masonry bricks, and the foundation does not have such significant reserves of strength, then cracking of the walls is inevitable. The consequence is destruction load-bearing structures and elements, inevitable, very complex and expensive repairs.
The destruction of the facade of the house in the absence of a drain is a matter of time
Important. During the design of houses, no one lays in the strength of the foundation the influence of the above factors due to the lack of a drainage system. Such a huge reserve of carrying capacities greatly increases the estimated cost of construction. It always means that there is a blind area around the house, and all the water from the roof is diverted far beyond the foundation or into special engineering sewer networks... Today, for these purposes, companies produce very effective, durable and reliable drainage systems.
Gutters
The entire huge number of structural models is divided into two large groups depending on what material they are made of.
| System type | Brief description of physical and technological characteristics |
|---|---|
| Such systems can be made from very expensive copper and other non-ferrous alloys or relatively cheap galvanized sheet steel. In all respects, they occupy a leading position and are far ahead of plastic products. The only drawback is the high cost. Because of this, metal drainage systems can only be seen on prestigious houses, they can be installed on religious buildings, used for the reconstruction of historic buildings. |
| Cheaper design, has a lot of original design and engineering solutions. Individual elements can be assembled using special locks or glued, each method has its own pros and cons. Advantages - quick assembly and relatively low cost. The disadvantage is low mechanical strength. |
We will focus on plastic systems in more detail. These gutters are used much more often than metal ones, they have a pleasant appearance, if the manufacturer's recommendations are followed, they can be used for at least ten years.
But such operational properties can be expected only on one condition - made by a well-known and respectful company for its customers. How not to be mistaken with the choice of what to pay attention to?
This is an extremely important issue that has a great impact not only on the durability of operation, but also on the installation technology. Before buying a system, you should follow these steps.
Conclusion. The better the system, the easier it is to install and the longer it will last.
For example, we will consider the installation technology of one type of system from a well-known manufacturer. The name and brand do not matter, different types almost do not differ in the editing algorithm. For the production of work, you will need a hacksaw for metal, self-tapping screws of various lengths and diameters, a screwdriver, measuring tools, a bubble level, a chopping rope, a felt-tip pen, a silicone spray.
Important. Some manufacturers allow the installation of their systems at subzero temperatures. Experienced builders categorically do not recommend listening to such advice, all plastic structures should be installed only at temperatures above + 5 ° C.
Step 1. Check the completeness of the system. The kit should include the following items.
Step 2. Mark out the placement of the drainage system on the house.
Funnel position marking
During the markup, several prerequisites must be met:
Step 3. Attach the first outer bracket to the eaves board. The holes in the bracket are elliptical to allow precise positioning of the element. Align it horizontally, the gutter should touch it with the entire surface, this contact reduces concentrated loads. And plastic products are very afraid of them.
Screwdrivers
Step 4. Secure the outer roof slope bracket. During fixing, it is always necessary to maintain the slope of the gutter, otherwise water will stagnate in it, vegetation will grow over time, leaks appear, etc. The slope should be ≈ 3mm per meter. If the length of the slope is 10 m, then the difference in height between the first and the last bracket is about 3 cm. Long slopes must be divided into sections and several water intakes must be installed. If this is not observed, then it will not be possible to withstand the projections of the slope and the upper edge of the gutter recommended above. Because of this, a large amount of rain and melt water will spill past the drainage system.
Step 5. Pull a rope between the installed brackets, it indicates the correct position of all the others.
After that, you can start assembling the elements of the gutter, this is a very important task, work carefully. You must always remember that after the start of the operation of the house, it is much more difficult to fix problems with the drainage system than to follow the recommendations for correct installation.
Important. To increase the tightness of the joints of the plastic drainage system, it is recommended to additionally seal them with a special silicone spray. It serves two purposes.
Step 1. Tilt the gutter upside down. Use a metal hacksaw to cut the groove lengthwise.
Step 2. Install the gutter in the prepared brackets and inlet funnel. Secure with special latches.
Important. Please note that the funnel is attached to the bottom of the entire gutter and is not used as a stand-alone support element. Such engineering solutions increases the reliability and durability of the structure.
Step 3. If the length of the gutter is not sufficient, then it is necessary to use special connecting elements for the extension. In this case, a gap is always left for leveling the linear thermal expansion of the weir system. The connecting elements have dashes, with their help, the correct initial gap between the ends of the gutters is selected, taking into account the air temperature at which the installation is made.
Step 5. Make a turn of the gutter in the corner of the building. Select an element depending on its value. Always use a special silicone spray, responsible manufacturers sell it as a complete system.
Step 6. Install the plugs along the ends.
Now we need to fix the vertical pipes.
Important. Never fix downpipes close to walls, always leave a gap of at least five centimeters. Otherwise, the surface of the wall will be constantly damp, fungus may appear on it.
Step 1. Install the elbow into the funnel funnel, turn it in the desired direction and fix the position with a special self-tapping screw. If the distance from the end of the elbow to the wall is too large, then you will have to additionally insert a piece of pipe. It is cut off with an ordinary hacksaw for metal or a grinder from standard pipe... Burrs need to be removed.
Step 2. Put on the second elbow, with its help, the vertical direction of the pipe is given. Attach the first bracket to the wall. The fastening can be dowels or self-tapping screws, choose the option depending on the characteristics of the facade walls. The first bracket should be no further than 15 cm from the knee.
Step 3. Stretch the thread and mark the locations of the remaining brackets along it. The latter is located near the drain to the ground, and the rest are symmetrical with a maximum step of 1.8 m.
Step 4. Fasten all brackets in the drilled holes, assemble the pipe and secure it.
Aluminum ladder
The first option is simple, cheap and more or less acceptable. The second option is long, expensive, but very effective.
What to choose - each developer decides individually. But it is much better to do this even at the design stage of the house, especially if there is a desire to connect the drainage system to underground utilities.
