Now many residents of private houses are installed for the main or additional heating of water warm floor. It has a lot of benefits: increases comfort, evenly warms the room, does not require additional energy costs (since it works from one boiler with radiators). The instruction in our article will make installation of water warm floors, not even having experience. However, before this it is worth examining all the nuances.
Best of all the warm water floor system is combined with styling under and tiles.
Of course, the warm floor can be done, under linoleum, PVC tiles and even carpet, with a special note.
But, for example, carpet makes no sense, and it is impossible to exceed the surface temperature above 31 ° C, according to SNiP 41-01-2003. Otherwise, it will provoke the release of harmful substances.
Probably, many tenants had a thought independently connect "on free" water warm floors to the central heating system or DHW. And some do it even, but in most cases it is prohibited by local legislation.
For example, in Moscow, Government Decree No. 73-PP dated February 8, 2005, in Appendix No. 2, it is clearly written about the ban on the re-equipment of public water supply systems for the floor heating device.
Violating the rules, at best, you can get a penalty at the first visit to Plumbers. And at worst - the risk of leaving neighbors without heating.
In some regions, the ban does not work, but an examination is required to connect not to disrupt the operation of the system.
In general, from a technical point of view, such options are possible, but only when connecting a separate pump mixing node and maintaining pressure in the exit system.
Note! If an an apartment building has an inkjet pump (elevator), then we can not use metal-plastic and polypropylene pipes.
There are several ways to arrange a warm water floor.
For warm water floors, three types of pipes will fit.
Before mounting and purchasing materials, it is necessary to make a warm floor calculation. To do this, draw a circuit diagram, which is then useful when conducting repair workTo know the position of the pipes.
The graph shows the dependence of the flow density from the average temperature of the coolant. The dotted line shows the pipe with a diameter of 20 mm, and solid lines - 16 mm. 
The graph shows the data are valid only when using a cement-sand tie with a thickness of 7 cm, coated with tiles. If the thickness of the screed is increased, for example, 1 cm, then the density of the heat loss is reduced by 5-8%.
The optimal temperature at the input and outlet should not be different by more than 5-10 degrees. The maximum coolant temperature should not exceed 55 ° C.
According to the diagram, only a rough calculation can be performed and make the final adjustment due to the mixing unit and thermostats. For accurate design, be sure to turn to professional heat engineers.
Warm water laying technology consists of several layers, which are placed in a certain sequence. The total thickness of the cake is 8-14 cm, the load on the overlap is up to 300 kg / kV. m.
In case the basis - concrete plate:
For waterproofing, it is permissible to use a conventional polyethylene film or special materials. The damper tape is made of sliced \u200b\u200binsulation strips with a thickness of 1-2 cm, or buy ready option With self-adhesive basis.
The selection of insulation depends on several factors: region, base material. For example, for floors on the soil, the extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 5 cm is used (optimally 10), and if under the floor of the first floor there is a warm base, then you can use more subtle options from 3 cm.
The main purpose of the insulation is to direct heat from heating up and prevent large heat loss.
In case the base is the floors of the soil: 
Preparatory layers under the draft screed is important to be carefully layered. With a dense ending of the base and the use of extruded polystyrene foaming, it will not be necessary to make a draft screed.
Suppose a good base has already been prepared: a smooth concrete plate or a falling layer without strong drops. The drops should not exceed 7 mm when checking a two-meter rail. If there are irregularities, they can be covered with sand.
Someone lays waterproofing under the bottom of the insulation, someone, on the contrary, upstairs, and some use both there and there.
If extruded polystyrene foam is used, it practically does not need waterproofing, so its position is not as critical. But it will not give cement milk to penetrate between the seams of the insulation and go to the stove and will additionally restrain moisture from the bottom.
If you fix it at the bottom of the insulation, it is possible to mount the pipes on the warm floor straight to the insulation. If the waterproofing is steles upstairs, then the mounting mesh is required for fastening pipes.
We put waterproofing with the allen on the walls by 20 cm, and on each other. Shakes glue a tape for sealing.
If the finished tape is purchased - just glue it around the perimeter. It usually has a thickness of 5-8 mm and a height of 10-15 cm. The height should be higher than the level of the fill, the excess is cut into a knife. If the tape is made with your own hands, then be sure to glue or fasten it with self-storms to the wall.
The linear expansion of the concrete is 0.5 mm per meter when heated to 40 ° C.
The leaf insulation for warm water floor is stacked with the displacement of the joints so that it is tightly connected.
The first layer of the reinforcement grid is usually placed on the insulation and is used as a base for fastening the contours and uniform heat distribution over the surface. Between themselves mesh bind with wire. The grid on the nylon clamps fasten the pipes.
The diameter of the rods of the mesh is 4-5 mm, and the cell size is depending on the styling step, for convenient mounting.
In addition, be sure to lay reinforcement over the pipes, since it will not give almost no effect on the bottom of the mesh, if it is lying at the bottom itself. Either during the fill to put the grid on the stand, creating a gap.
Water warm floor can be laid in several ways, list them. 
Application of various types fasteners of pipes Pipes are laid with an indentation from the walls of 15-20 cm. Each contour is extremely desirable to do from a single pipe without welding, and their length should not be more than 100 m. The step between the pipes at the walls is 10 cm, closer to the center - 15 cm.
Warm floor laying circuit is different, for example, a spiral or snake. Outdoor walls try to make the laying step more often or hold the contour from feeding next to the cold walls. An example of a scheme for enhanced heating of exterior walls is shown in the photo, it is better to use this option in the cold regions: 
In the remaining cases, the contours of the spiral (snail) are usually placed, this is a universal version.
In places with a large cluster of pipes to avoid overheating of the surface, some of them are closed with a heat insulating tube.
Metal-plastic 16 mm and 20 mm is easy to flex manually, without the use of special tools. In order to break the tubes to the angle of a small radius and at the same time not to crack her, the angles bend into several goals (hand interceptions).
At an angle of 90 °, approximately 5-6 interceptions. This means that at the beginning, resting on the thumbs, make a small bend, then slightly shift hands towards the bend and repeat the actions.
Invalid the presence of fuses on pipes in places of sudden turns.
Polypropylene tubes bend much harder because they spring. Therefore, they are heated or made to bend them, but in the case of a warm floor - simply attach to the grid, making bends less sharp.
Installation of water heat starts from connecting the first end of the pipe to the distribution collector, and after laying the room immediately plug (second end).
In most cases, the contours are connected through the distribution unit. It carries several functions: increase pressure in the system, temperature adjustment, uniform feeding to several contours, combination together with radiators.
There are many schemes for connecting to the boiler, which we wrote in the article about: with manual adjustment, with weather automatics and autorugulation with servo drives and sensors.
Euroconus fitting Pipes are connected to the collector using the Euroconus clamping fittings.
When you are finished the installation of all contours, be sure to conduct pneumatic testing of the system for tightness. For this, with the help of the compressor is crimping. A small household compressor with a pressure of more than 6 bar is suitable for testing. The pressure in the system is adjusted to 4 bar and leave it for all the time before the system is started.
Since the air molecules are much less than water molecules, it will be possible to detect even a small depressurization. In addition, water can freeze if they do not have time to connect heating, and nothing will become with the air.
Filling a screed is made only after installing all the contours and hydraulic tests. It is recommended to use a concrete not lower than M-300 (B-22.5) with a rubble fraction of 5-20 mm. The minimum thickness of 3 cm above the pipe is made not only for the sake of obtaining the desired strength, but also for the uniform distribution of heat over the surface. Weight of 1 square. m. Chats with a thickness of 5 cm is up to 125 kg.
With a screed thickness, more than 15 cm or at high loads require an additional calculation of the thermal mode.
With an increase in the thickness of the screed, more time is required to heat it up to a certain temperature after switching on, as well as the inertia of the system. The lower the thermal conductivity of the screed, the higher the temperature of the coolant will be taken.
Examples of the separation of a large room on the zones The absence or improper position of temperature gaps is the most frequent cause The destruction of the screed.
Shrinking seams are made in the following cases:
To do this, on the perimeter of the seams laid the damper tape. In place of the seam, the reinforcement grid must be divided. The deformation gap should be at a base of 10 mm thick. The upper part is treated with a sealant. If the room has a non-standard form, it needs to be broken into simpler elements of a rectangular or square form. 
If the pipes pass through the deformation seams in the screed, in these places they are packed in a corrugated pipe, 30 cm of corrugations in each direction (according to SP 41-102-98 - 50 cm on each side). It is recommended not to separate one contour with deformation seams, the pipes and return pipes should pass through it.
Proper passage of contours through technological seams When laying tiles on deformation seams, the likelihood of its disposal increases due to different expansion of adjacent plates. To avoid this, the first part is placed on the tile glue, and the second part is attached to the elastic sealant.
For additional separation, the deformation seams of an incomplete profile can be used. They are made using a trowel, 1/3 of thickness. After soaring the concrete, they are also sealed with sealant. If pipes are passing through them, they are also protected by corrugations.
A fairly frequent phenomenon is the appearance of cracks on the tie after drying. This can provoke a number of reasons:
Avoid them is very simple:
For a warm floor, be sure to use a plasticizer to increase the elasticity and strength of concrete. But it is necessary to apply special types of non-air-penetrating plasticizers for a warm floor.
Without experience, make a cement-sand tie for a warm floor without rubble / gravel will not work, and the correct vintage CPS will cost more than factory concrete. Therefore, in order to avoid cracks due to a violation of the composition of the solution, it is concrete with rubble.
The M-300 solution of the M-400 cement cement, m-400 and rubble is made according to the following proportions.
There is also another option using the granite dropout instead of sand, the following elements are used for its preparation:
High-quality concrete should not be distinguished when laying (flashed). If everything is done correctly and the air temperature is 20 ° C, it should begin to be captured after 4 hours, and after 12 hours it will not leave tracks from heels.
After 3 days after the fill, the screed will pick half of its strength, and it will turn completely only after 28 days. It is not recommended to include a heating system up to this point. 
The tree does not effectively carry out heat, unlike concrete, but the installation will also implement it. To do this, use distribution plates from aluminum. Pipes are placed in wooden grooves made by fastening pre-prepared boards.
For the installation of linoleum, carpet and other materials requiring a flat surface, an aligning layer of chipboard, plywood or GVL is stacked above the pipes. If parquet or laminate will be used as a finishing coating, the design of the underground can be slightly simplified, without the use of the leveling layer.
When choosing plywood and chipboard, make sure that they have sanitary and hygienic and thermomechanical indicators, allowing them to use them with warm floors.
The price of a warm floor of water is formed from several components:
On average, the price of water warm sex when installing "turnkey" together with all materials and work will cost approximately 1500-3000 rubles. For 1 sq. M. m.
Below is an approximate estimate for a house of 100 square meters. m., but prices for water warm floors are strongly dependent on the region, so it is best to drive their data there and make an independent calculation. There are no expenses for installation and purchase of radiators, boilers, finishing and screed.
| Estimation on the installation of a water underground system of 1st floor. | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| № | Name of material | Units. change | Number of | Price | Sum |
| 1 | Extruded expanded polystyrene 5 cm | m2. | 96 | 227 | 21792 |
| 2 | Mounting grid 150 * 150 * 4 | m2. | 106 | 30 | 3180 |
| 3 | Polyethylene film 250 MK | m2. | 105 | 40 | 4200 |
| 4 | Pipe metal-plastic 16 mm | m. p. | 700 | 39 | 27300 |
| 5 | Dampfer tape from the substrate | m2. | 30 | 50 | 1500 |
| 6 | Collector Valtec 1 ", 7 x 3/4", "Euroconus" | pC. | 2 | 1600 | 3200 |
| 7 | Fitting Connection to the collector (Euroconus) 16x2 mm | pC. | 14 | 115 | 1610 |
| 8 | Pump-mixing knot | pC. | 1 | 14500 | 14500 |
| 9 | Dowels and selflessness | pC. | 300 | 1,5 | 450 |
| 10 | Mounting tape | m. p. | 50 | 11 | 550 |
| 11 | Other components for warm water floors | pOS. | 1 | 0 | 0 |
| Total on materials | 78282 | ||||
| Name of works | Units. change | Number of | Price | Sum | |
| 1 | Chernovaya screed | m2. | 96 | 60 | 5760 |
| 2 | Installation of damper ribbon | m. p. | 160 | 60 | 9600 |
| 3 | Laying waterproofing | m2. | 100 | 60 | 6000 |
| 4 | Laying mounting grid | m2. | 110 | 150 | 16500 |
| 5 | Installation of pipes | m2. | 96 | 300 | 28800 |
| 6 | Pressing system | m2. | 96 | 20 | 1920 |
| Total work | 68580 | ||||
| 1 | Total on materials | 78282 | |||
| 2 | Total work | 68580 | |||
| 3 | Total | 146862 | |||
| Overhead transportation costs | 10% | 14686 | |||
| In total, by estimet the installation of a water heating floor system 1. | 161548 | ||||
Installation of warm water floors is shown in video:
I smoke the topic of warm floors.
Today it is one of the most effective heating solutions: efficiency 100%, the ability to regulate the temperature depending on seasonality, fire safety, energy efficiency.
No hemorrhoids with fuel-coal firewood, with the arrangement of boiler room, etc. specialists, with gas connecting, etc.
Plus, you can dump only those rooms that are used without spending warming the whole house if some rooms are not used.
The possibility of remote start-off, for example, if it is a cottage and want to come there at the weekend in a warm house.
In case of turning off the electricity - we start the diesel generator. In the future, you can slowly build a module for power from solar panels.
One minus - price ...
From 1-1.5-2 minutes per square meter ....
Let's try to smoke this topic!
Here, for example, the experience of real use of a warm floor-based cable basis.
Major X.
Super Iksovoda
1,578 messages
Gender: Male
City: Bashkortostan
Many know what an electric warm floor, which heats up the heating cable. The cost of such cables begins from 2000 rubles for only 10 meters. To ensure the heating of the floor in the room 18m2 it is necessary to meters 40-50. Total about 10,000 rubles.
I suggest another solution: few know what the cable P-274M is a field cable of communication. Its insulation is not afraid of any weather, withstands high and low temperatures, solar radiation.
But for us the main thing in the other - this cable excellent option For a warm floor!
Its value is only 4.8 rubles per meter (in Ufa, at least)!
I want to add that in order to completely exclude the use of a downcast transformer, and directly inclusion in a regular electrical network, you need a segment of 185-200m cable (tweed), which is enough to fit 50-70m2 (depends on the frequency of its laying and the desired heating power), Cost less than 1000 rubles! Connect the ends on one side with each other, securely insulating, put it on the floor, pour the screed, on the other other end, mount the plug and to the network. Provides 1.8-1.9 kW of power, 60-65 degrees. Heating cable.
He made a warm floor on the first floor in the same way.
here are the characteristics of the fields P-274:
Mechanical
Construction length - 500 +/- 10 m
Number of live - 2, the number of wires in the veins: steel 3x0.3 mm, copper - 4x0.3 mm
Polyethylene insulation, thickness 0.5 mm
The diameter of the vein - 2.3 mm
Ambient temperature - + 50c-60s (in my kitchen minimum +20, and you?)
Weight 1 km - 15 kg
Gap strength - 392n (40kgs)
Technical
Resistance at T \u003d 20c
a) veins (permanent current) - more than 65 ohm / km
b) general isolation on a breakdown (after 3-hour exposure in water) - at least 1000 mom
The field cable can even warm the pipes both inside and outside.
Feb 4, 2010
The frozen water supply in a private house or in the country brings a lot of trouble and losses. One way to combat freezing is heating pipes with a special electric heating cable. But such a cable is not very low, but a real return on it - only in strong prolonged frosts, which are no longer every year in the middle lane.
Is it possible to find some replacement for an expensive branded cable? Having wondered by this question, I conducted experiments with a wire telephone field connection P-274M (Polevka). The wire is relatively thin, hard, durable, in good durable isolation, allowed in water.
Made a "mock of a piece of water pipe" from a semi-leaf cohon, and airtight cable entry into the pipeline. Filled with water layout, inserted the cable inside, spinled the cape nut, connected the power from the transformer, and placed the layout in the freezer of the household refrigerator (temperature \u003d -18 degrees).
To simulate the thermal insulation wrapped the pipe with a newspaper (16 layers of paper), a current of 9 A. after 7 hours checked: water did not frozen, water temperature \u003d +14 degrees.
Removed part of the "heat insulation", left 8 layers of paper. Reduced the current to 7 A. after 13 hours checked: not frozen, water temperature \u003d +4 degrees.
Reduced the current to 3.5 A. Checked after 10 hours: the water frozen.
Increased current up to 9 A. checked after 4 hours: completely melted, the temperature of the water \u003d +4.7 degrees.
Water pipe in the country, often, is organized using a watering hose. He spent experiments with him. The heat insulation did not do; Just naked plastic hose.
Salted a current 9 A. After 20 hours, I checked: the water did not frozen, the temperature of the water in the upper open end of the hose \u003d +2, in the middle part of the hose +4, in the "lower" shovel of 0 degrees (the cable does not reach). The word "lower" is taken in quotes, because the hose lies horizontally, and only an open end is slightly lifted so that the water does not flow out. It should be noted that the thermometer lying in 2 centimeters from the hose showed not -18, and -16 degrees, apparently due to the heating of the hose.
Disconnected current to give water to freeze. After an hour I checked - frozen, I waited for another 3 hours for more than 3 hours. I turned on the current 9 A, after 4 hours I checked: not all the water melted, but only a little around the cable; On the walls of the ice hose. (If we pump out water from the well - the remaining ice will melt; the main thing is to get the opportunity for pumping.)
The transition of water from one aggregate state to another is accompanied by additional energy consumption (deposition of ice), or, accordingly, the release of energy (ice freezing). Therefore, it is better not to give water to freeze.
Conclusion: It is possible to use instead of a branded heating cable - usual, in particular, "voles". Of course, with the loss of some useful qualities (self-regulation, special "food" isolation). If the cable is not inside, but outside the pipe, then the "food" isolation is not needed.
Now some technical details.
In order not to expose the cable veins, it is better to spread the ringer to two single wires, measure with a margin, bend the wire halvery, reinstall, output the ends out of hermetic input.
Sealed entry can be made of flexible liner flange. Caid nut allows you to tighten the connection without scrolling the cable.
It is possible to free the fitting, the coating rolling with a turbine or a file.
Scheater the fitting inside with transverse grooves with the help of the leg. Fill the end of the fitting so that epoxy filling does not squeeze with water. It does not prevent simple adaptation, imitating the wires passing through the fitting. From steel wire with a diameter of 2 -2.5mm and a length of centimeters 20 bend the U-shaped plug "Camerton", put the fitting on it. Heat the fitting on the gas burner and quickly flap with pliers or viska. Wire adaptation will not allow superfront.
Scheduled with transverse grooves or notches of wires, apply a two-component epoxy glue from the category "Cold Welding" on them, insert into the fitting, fill the fitting with glue (I suppose unnecessarily reminding the degreasing of the glued surfaces).
You can crawl the cable into the plumbing through a tee or a disassembled filter.
In the long hose cable you can crawl into the ladder: even the fire hose must be held in the right opening), the hose must be warm up to be smaller, to lower the cargo on the thick caproic thread, and then ticking for the thread, to drag on top Down cable.
If there is an opportunity, the cable is better to have no inside, but outside the pipe. In this case, it is not necessary to break the double wire, and after laying, connect the wires at the far end.
The cable is climbed to the pipe, and over the heat insulation from the cold. So you can ensure the pipe heating not only water, but also, for example, sewage.
For pools, the allowable current is not more than 9a. I will explain why.
Operating temperature in long-term mode The manufacturer indicates from -50 to +65 degrees. Water in a hose or pipe may not be for any reason. The tests have shown that in the hose without water at room temperature the surface of the wire is heated to 62 degrees at a current 9a, and it remains such a long time. In the cold, it is most likely not heated, but it is better to reduce the risk of overheating.
With a current 9a, the power secured by the dual wire is obtained about 10 watts per meter.
The supply voltage to the cable must be chosen at the rate of about 1.2 V per meter of the dual wire.
For example, to provide a current 9a in a two-meter dual wire (heat from the inside of 2 meters of the pipe) is required from the transformer to submit 2.4 V.
For 5 meters 6V. For 10 meters 12 V.
Aleksei
01.10.2008, 17:02
If more accurately from flat, which on sh.
Thirty-chained zigzag meters with a pitch of 10 cm on 4 squares, a cross section of 0.75 mm. 24 volts, current will be about 10a.
The specific thermal load will be about 10 watts on the shaft meter.
The cross section of 0.75 mm copper chose out of the calculation. Do not extend for 24 volts. If you take the field wire, it will be necessary to feed quite a lot of voltage - it wanted. Paul-Parquilka and washing in the bath. Force -zima lift its temperature to acceptable. Temperature sensors with energy transportation, at 75 watts per square - This is the insanity.
The people are very, strange - it is not afraid of 220 volts in which one phase is grounded and hoolit 24 volts through a transformer. And for some reason, no one plays laying in the dressing room of a warm floor to 220 in the car room, and I gave half of all the warm floors in the car room.
The transition from 0.75 square to the greater cross section will be at the plunth level. Before starting, I will put your experience in the sand in the sand and with the help of an infrared thermometer, I will make a graph of the temperature of the shell temperature.
All palsy brainwashing brains by managra.
Any conductor will warm up the current.
A lot of voltage is a big danger.
For considerations of savings, Managers took 220 and tried to make superiozolation.
I took just a wire / I wanted to put it at all, but it was difficult to lay it / and filed it through a transformer / 24 volt /, which for a person half every cells spent with the soldering iron should not worth anything.
Motives - I feel sorry for several thousand on a special wire, despite the fact that the tile itself got up in a couple of thousands, the second motive is unpleasant to realize that under the feet of 220- at least three RED RUN.
Above ktoto about special superpoint isolation, something bent.
Ordinary isolation on the usual APQ or the same PSV in terms of waterproofing is better nowhere. Do you know why, cover, wiring in the wall? When installing, it is captured in the bracket from the taper of the wire and the bracket is nailed with dupel. Periodically, the installer flushes and falls on the isolation of the wire breaking it. And there would be a wire for a hundred years, the electrolysis and the wire of the neighbor began on top of the neighbor. It is typical for brick buildings and is not typical for panel. In a brick dormitory, I was a few years most part-time by a regular electrician, so I possess statistics.
I also cooked at currents in primary under 80 by luminia in 2.5 squares. Nothing supernatural not counting paid tips on crimping in places of compounds / basement /
Maybe in the interruptions between reading books worth trying with hands ??
I have an infrared thermometer, I have an infrared thermometer, which I do not get into virtue of natural curiosity. In particular, the power supply on the stationary telephone I have 33.7 at room floor. And what do you have in the apartment in, grams,? Do you rely on certificates?
If several decades in the interruptions between reading books are picked by handles, then 80A on the primary and 80 in the secondary, the transformer is portrayed, in Russian, little turns on the primary.
The transformer will buzz in the attic. There is enough copper stock. While that at the current historical stage can already be viewed towards the finished RF transducers.
If a person has a horizon of a bit higher than Pintus, he should know that our 220 tribute to the economy economy. Surgical bourgeois prefer 110.
Well, I do not like 220 under your feet.
If the sides were in freaks with arithmetic, they corrected me - I turned on the 24 volts of my two-wire cable 0.75 square 25 m, and the points are small. It seems about 30-35V.
There was no tick and voltmeter.
The temperature of the wire in air at +9 40 degrees, the wire passing through the sand / put the sand bank for the experiment / has a temperature of 7-10 degrees below.
That is, the transition to the feed cable must be made in the screed.
For three hours raised the temperature of the floor by three degrees.
Captured the devices, squeezed in the network of 180 volts damn, a garden society without meters, but electricity year-round.
Appropriate at the output of the transformer 18 volts. Calculated-1.38 ohms and it comes out on 27 meters, the plant saved.
What we have-13 amps at 18 volts. It is about 230 watts by 3.5 square floor. That is about 70 watts per square. These 70 watts raise the floor temperature in 5 hours by 5 degrees, I suppose during this time, the process stabilize. The temperature of the air wires exceeds the surrounding heat treatment by 30 degrees.
70 degrees for wire is when using it appointment and appointment He has dangle for Al.pribor, there are hard conditions. In the statics I suppose and 90 degrees are not critical. Despite the fact that more than 100vatt on the square is not going to load.
In accordance with the laws of physics, it is warm to raise up-nafig to me from the bottom of thermal insulation? Between the tie and ground layer of the air - the epigent insulator.
I've got paving tile with glued porcelain toll tile, in seam Stool is embedded. Planned to put an experiment on the resistance of glue to the heating and cooling cycles. Hands did not reach, but on the dependence of the surface temperature from the presence of the insulation, I promise to make a measurement.
A cruise-ceramzitobetone thickness is about 10 cm, lies on the boards of 25-30mm, the boards are based on the corners fixed around the perimeter of the foundation. Between the Earth and the floor, the gap of about 10 cm. We have, but stood a calm. I give an off date to the Convention, I give no more than ten-twenty percent.
I'm sick between my measurements and warm floors in the apartment - I currently at the present tile in the bathroom has a temperature of + 26, in winter when the temperature of the towel rail is much higher than the floor has a temperature of about 30 degrees. We also have the rest of the mass of the people about such a layout. Compliant the body floor, and raising the temperature of another degrees for seven, and this is no more than a hundred watts even on mine, displeased, gets +37 of which the people and, drag,
Excrement-Sovdepovsky oil heater at 500VATT, on the attack of its area 0.5 square, he heat up to about 80 degrees at room temperature +20
That is, the kilowat heats the square by 60 degrees. And 100 watts The same square is heated by 10-15 degrees / there is not a linear /.
That is, in the winter in the abrupt room of the dress from the dublik, and not a warm floor.
Catching the wrapper Parils Popped the stove and the temperature of the floor in Maha jumped down the degrees for five, despite the pope of a bit. It is possible that heated with electricity is needed as a bonge hare. In any case, in the process, it does not need one hundred percent. That is, it turns out its inclusion through the temperature sensor of the steam room / the setpoint of degrees by thirty / we make protection and from the fool and from all the horrities that scare.
It is possible to lay a not 0.75, and 1.5 square on the copper. When the ray of 30 meters at 10 watts per meter, you will need 12 volts. You can of course wrapped in the nose and looking for a danger, but, putting hands on one place between us boys, what numerous injuries of isolation? Yes, and if they are made specifically what step by step at 12 volts, while under the wire in the screed lies reinforcement grid, and how without her ??? In the case of PE, the grid equalizes the potential.
Poted the gaze on electronic transducers for halogen 220n 12. On sale there is a 150 watt power for 150 p. With protection against short. It does not have stabilization on the voltage. If two sequentially turn on, then everything can be chocolate.
I'm talking about brain stains.
The flag / beggar / invested in El. Cotel worth more than 11 thousand, despite the fact that the normal people in the welded tank screws up a couple of tennes for 200r. and grill.
On personality crossed .... Moscow concentrates 80% of finance shifted brains to some. In Russia, a qualifier worker lives on a salary of 10-15 thousand. If this money is subtracting compulsory spending on an apartment, food, clothes, gasoline, and so much like, then a person can stay 1-2 thousand. It is on such a chip like a warm floor, - not even the floor itself, and the kit in the box, He will save / work / six months old. So with, ready-made solutions, go to the forest.
Or are we built - repair / have the right / only Don and Senoras ??
TEN at a half-year kilowa with a thermostat costs about 200 p. Tank, Three Tan, Three Tumblar and Heat System is ready. The closure of the Kalgona package, the system is closed. About such a scheme all country to warm up.
From safety equipment to safe technique is such a motto.
The man did safely -thered from 220 to 24 and received the overwhelming majority. And Viga Li can be expected from the inhabitants the whole life of which in the hands of marketers-drink one, to drink one, chew another, in the rosette to poke the third.
The transformer buzzes-all the country was sitting in front of color TVs with 300 cotton transformers and did not notice, bumbish
Tannes with thermostator did not see, and the usual TEN is 1,5-2 kW we have only 80 rubles
We have a heating in a mechanical workshop in the depot. Homemade three-phase electrocotel - 6 kW, 3 tan connected by a star + thermostat from an old iron.
From him a wiring on 6 standard cast iron radiators.
+ There are 2 more goats, one three-phase -3.5 kW, another single-phase --2.5 kW connected to a regular Soviet socket - with an inscription of 6 amps.
Everything is clear with that.
I'm interested in me.
I heard that the beaters were made from the bed springs (6-8 pieces were connected successively) and stretched on insulators.
What power?
Included in 220 or low voltage?
About the bed springs did not hear.
In the late 90s, when there was a peak of the Bardaka in the folk zoom, and the CHP was barely grieving. The people have established the stream production of electric mass heaters. Construction represented two vertical pipes with a length of centimeters 40-50 with a diameter of 100mm and between them several jumpers with a length of centimeters 60 of the pipes with a smaller diameter. . The sunfall was poured with salted water. Nal on the case, phase on the electrode plug into the outlet. Sold like seeds to the market day, they could even be found in kindergartens. No one killed. After that, from the section, the electrician, I'm just nauseous - the NEO, the diphawtomatas, 1 Uzo or the RCD for each automatic, however which .... the nose has about the island of how bad people delivered children and made donkeys from them. In real life occurs something similar.
Low-voltage heating has a significant drawback - power is limited to the transformer power.
Those if you have a 300 watt transformer (this is a very bulky transformer) --- Recall the lamp TV.
6.3 volts, just the power of about 300 watts (several sloping windings), then in the heater you dissipate no more than 300 watts, which is clearly not enough for general heating.
How to be?
Transformer-three times ha. I remember at the end of the eighties we had an epic of homemade welders. Everything was winding, even grandfathers' grandfathers - from the transformer iron was formed a bagel, the bagel was wrapped in a pile, the primary from copper / turns 200 /, the pitch, the seconder. Clear winds were moth, stubborn copper, turns of 50.Qurethe nichrome, sausage, nichrome diameter is about 5 mm.
as an option was an iron with an email, there is an email. Engines with a large hole at a low altitude of iron.
Those transformers still have so far, alive,. Heavy only. In the past years, I bought a Chinese -13 kilo for small works, the top three cooks without problems, to carry his pleasure.
The torus is good in many ways. The first is 30% higher than the epfection in terms of iron. Secondly, there are no carrots-wound a certain approximate number of turns and without breaking the wires through a shuttle supply voltage in order to check the current XX, are Veliven - Motion on. For the welder did the current XX about 0.5-1 amps.
On the kitchen heated floor-well, if only the first floor, I'm not the first, on the floor linoleum, I go barefoot-comfortable.
T. Paul is 8 square. If, according to an adult, pulls 10 tons. Lay out the tile on these 8 squares is also 10 tons / or 20? /. While the middle work is obtained in the area 15. In the year 12 wages. Is the arithmetic understandable? Therefore, the overwhelming majority suck paws, and not nudien on the warm floors as there are more urgent tasks.
Result.
Two weeks one of the rays in the work / on the second lacks, allocated, /
The street is pressed under -30 with wind, indoors of 16 square meters temperature -5. The watt oil heater is turned on by 400 and three squares works, warm floor, temperature, warm floor, +5. That is, it provides the difference to the air temperature of 10 degrees.
The wire was 30 meters with a spin on one side, it turned out 27 meters, three meters remained, did not spend the track. On the block with which the wire goes into the floor's adjustment 18 volts, 14 amps, that is, about 250 watts or 80 watts per square meter. The temperature of the wire in the air is about 35 degrees exceeds the temperature of the air, in the screed of heat removal larger as it has been established with sand experience .
Of course, it is desirable to put the warming cable in one wire to serve the voltage to opposite ends. But very much gimoro will lay, but for the one you can warm it up to one hundred degrees. Transformer is desirable to do on the TORE -TER work without vibration. Amen.
Aleksei
21.05.2009, 05:34
Extended season . Necessary ultra-added and electrons ran about the wire and gotten it as it should be in accordance with the laws of physics. The season was turned on the heating of the ray that in the steam room / 27 meters and 250 watts. On the ray in the sink to supply food hands did not reach.
250 watts raised the temperature in a room at 8 degrees relative to the surrounding, overboard, / sauna 16 squares, a ram for 15 /. The included part of the floor was the warmer of air in the degree room for 10-13 / long. Meril, subsided.
Below, no foam and other wisdoms are warm.
Tile / porcelain stoneware / lifted on a spacious solution from cement and sand plus PVA mug on a bucket of the solution - Hold down dead. The fool was- it was necessary to buy a special mixture for 400 p.20 kg bag and then ask why the tile lags behind ....
Aleksei
28.10.2009, 15:36
Turned on. Gone second season .
by the way, how many kilowatt trance and in the volt level (secondary) it is necessary to approximately on the area of \u200b\u200b12 sq.m? per wire 1.5-2.5 mm2
above, I gave the proportions-30 meters of the wire, Copper 0.75,18 volts on the wire. Transformer 250 watts, was laid on 3.5 squares / so or about so /. On 12 squares need to be focused on a transformer 1.2 of kiloda.
2.5 IMHO high consumption of copper.
1.5 more acceptable appropriate, focusing on the current at 30 A
And Figli then ..? Nobody pulls no
section where the people are intimidated by the horns God knows that / this is regarding grounding, the Uzo and the mad sections. And by and large, even such great people as Mao said diametrically opposite things.
Alexsandrs.
29.10.2009, 22:27
Well, start with the fact that multi-storey houses Electrocotels do not put --- this decision is purely for a private house.
Put in full. Installing such a boiler with connections and documents about 2 thousand euros per 3-bedroom apartment.
i did a long time (10 years passed) a warm floor on the balcony - "Kopeika" ~ 200 rubles.
consumption ~ 400 W.
when the trees were riveted - I opened the balcony to warm up smile
of course, the balcony himself insulated with a foam ~ 7 cm thick (floor walls and ceiling), plus double-glazed windows.
on the topic - bought on a flea market N-E Used air bases, in diameter they easily entered the holes of the bricks (such bricks with round holes throughout the area).
bricks put on the edge evenly distributed on the floor of the balcony.
Teni joined sequentially parallel - picked up experimentally the temperature of the surface of the Tan.
on top of the bricks put the galincite leaf - immediately decided two tasks: the packaging and the etherromagnetic screen.
on top of a sheet of 20 mm plywood + linoleum.
additional plus - the floor on the balcony became at the level of the threshold, which turned out to be comfortable.
you can add the thermostat, if desired.
p.S. For a conventional warm floor, IMHO, you can use the wire to warm up concrete - it is iron in polyethylene insulation, but to feed it from the welding transformer, and it is just done to work in a concrete (a cable for a warm floor is poured with a concrete tie).
the issue of influence on the health of such a "warm floor" remains open - in branded wires a special screen.
you can try from the wire to make a "twisted pair" to compensate for email fields.
as for me personally, I would not experiment in residential premises, family health is more expensive.
in any case, the instrument measurements of the email emission fields at the floor level are needed.
P.S. I would never use the "film warm floor" - there is no screen there.
Ingener | POST: 437911 - Date: 17.01 (20:34)
Purchased cables and mats of the road. This idea is to use an ordinary electric wire for heating the floor, even aluminum or iron (met earlier), but to feed it from a lowering transformer or, as a simpler version, simply through the separator capacitor used as a ballast to obtain the desired power.
By the way, even a copper small section cable (0.75kv.) You can use as a heater at a power of order 2kW)
Of course, it is necessary to observe the temperature of the cable no more than 50-70 degrees, so that the insulation does not damage, but this is the issue of working out technology
While there were such remarks on fundamental disadvantages of warm electric floors:
1. Possible negative impact of the electromagnetic field on biological objects
2. Raising dust with floods of warm air from the floor
3. Destruction of engineering structures due to floor heating
4. In the case of using a quasi-resonance mode - powered through a container -
effect on electricity meter
5. Negative influence of the warm floor on the legs (should be colder than air)
______
1 / - as an option, use permanent current (ordinary diode bridge like those in single-phase welding inverters + smoothing capacity and question resolved)
2 / - It is hardly a stream of ascending anniversary will be so strong that dust will raise. The speech is not about hot floor, but only about bringing it to room temperature.
3 / - similarly by clause 2 - In the designs of the type of country houses, such collisions are hardly possible.
4 / - use the decision according to claim 1
on 5 / - again, the floor only heated to 18-20 devices so that it was possible to go to the sneakers. Nor heating the country house with a stove or radiators, the floor will still remain noticeably colder - all heat rises to the ceiling.
Somewhere for a long time on this forum I read that you can make a warming cable from a computer BP and a copper wire.
It has been a case before the construction of the house, but I did not find a description of the device, and conducted my own experiment, taking the house in stock: a two-housing copper wire 1.5 mm in a double braid and computer BP 300W. The measurements of the parameters conducted a tester with a temperature sensor.
So, the initial data - in the bay of approximately 30 meters of the cable, the BP has the outputs of 12V / 18A and 5V / 20A - respectively - 216 watts and 100 watts.
The cable at one end rushed, got 60 meters 1.5 mm, closed on a 12-volt output of BP and ... nothing happened - BP just turned off. Restarted the BP, closed the wire on a 5-volt yield - BP did not turn off. I measured the yield at the exit - 2.7 volts, the temperature of the cable - room 26 degrees. Waited 5 minutes - the temperature did not change.
I decided to continue the experiment, but already with the cable you need long - 10 meters. Sliced, connected, connected to 5-voltage output and everything worked perfectly: in 2 minutes the temperature of the cable rose by 4 degrees, in 10 minutes - by 22 degrees - up to 48 degrees. After 20 minutes, the experiment stopped, since the temperature of the cable did not grow, stopping at 53 degrees. BP for all the time of work did not hear and signs of unhealthy did not show. The voltage at the exit of BP was 4.2 V.
Pros see the following:
1. Cheapness - BP 500 rub, wire 200.
2. Maintainability - the cable will never overheat, does not overheat, it is not melted at 100 watts KZ, BP change easier to buy a new purchase
Minuses:
1. It is difficult to combine the automation of the process, if only put the mechanical 24h. Timer with configured intervals on / off for BP.
2. The need for periodic visual control of the health of BP.
in the water I do not assume to use - I suppose, you need to wrap all 10 meters of the wire around the PND pipe at entering the house, wrap everything with thermal insulation, then placed in 100mm sewer pipe. Heating cable in this case and permanent accommodation Must perform a safety, with a minimum probability of being included.
The VG in the earth was launched in the land - thought as an outline of the lighting of the site. The corrugation rotted long ago, but the lighting works, the RCO does not work.
In general, of course, yes - I will be a cable in the thick PVC braid to use and connect securely heat shrink.
OldVist.
Address: Orel
I used the field cable P-274M. There is a penny, and heats up fine. Connected to the OSM-0.25 36 volt. 50 meters cable. The temperature of the cable in the air rose 5 minutes to 60 degrees and stopped.
yes, a good option, probably even one of the most optimal. I just did from the fact that I had already layered at home and did not require special trips to the store for the specified components.
I'll see how the Livnevian behaves this year, and if necessary, I will make heated pipes and gutters like your description.
The 12-volt Output of the BP is cut down, even if the 80 meters of the short-circuited cable are connected - I tried.
Thus, it turns out that the theory is divided into practice due to the features of the computer BP protection scheme
OldVist.
Address: Orel
Well, everything is fine here. Contact resistance did not take into account, and when heated, the resistance of the wire rises. For example, the thread resistance of a 100-watt incandescent lamp of about 50 ohms. When heated, the resistance increases an order of magnitude (about 500 ohms).
So the temperature of the lamp also grows an order of magnitude, but at the wires on a pathetic 20-30 degrees.
In general, to be honest, I still do it - it works well. Leaving the included BP for a month and a half and everything is OK - works with a sufficient degree of reliability. Now "smoke" forums about the AVR for the generator, the emergency nutrition of the boiler, etc.
I wanted to put the heating cable into the ground. I reviewed on the Internet a lot of pages about these cables, about heated floors, pro heated pipes, etc.
Found a site in which it tells about what materials are part of these cables. The feeding veins are made of copper, steel, nichrome and other materials. On top of the supply vein there is a shell of plastic, polyethylene, PVC, and dr. Over the shell - screen. On top of the screen - again a protective sheath of rubber, polyethylene, and others.
So the thought came to me: the same ordinary wires only with a different cross section. So why are they so expensive?
And I decided to make the expirive: I took a cable such as a telephone, dwelling, only each living with a cross section of 1 mm. Suitable from the 7th individual steel wiring. Each vein is in its separate shell, then they are topically covered with a film similar to polyethylene, a thin aluminum foil from above, the main shell. I took this wire of 10 meters, and at one end two conductors laughed together, the spa-saw end snapped into the cap from the medical needle for the syringe and poured with silicone. On opposite disconnected ends subalted voltage 12 volts from a transformer for halogen light bulbs . And what do you think? The cable was heated at about 60 - 70 degrees, so that enough for ground heating. In the air it can be kept even in hand. For the expirive, I did not turn it off during the day being in the air, and it did not heat up anymore. After that, I placed it in the water, and saw outgoing heating streams from the cable. Here is a heating cable.
Single warning! If the cable is shorter, I think it will warm up stronger that bad for plants.
I leave it for discussion, maybe someone will give any comments in this test. The cost of the heated cable amounted to 66 rubles.
The last remark is probably due to this phrase: "... In our heater, it will flow at 2.5 A (12 V / 4.8 Ohm), and the minimum allowable diameter of the copper wire for this current, according to electrical tables, should be 0.5 mm, otherwise he burns. "
However, this is relevant if the heat sink from the conductor will be carried out in the air.
Cable, to all, we must take well isolated. Or independently isolate. Which automatically provides and thermal insulation.
About the insulation agrees.
But in this case (about the link) - water is flooded within this isolation. (It would be better, of course, something dielectric, but it did not work with glycerin. And use oil fluids, as they do when cooling transformers, I did not really want).
It turns out that the current really goes on a thin copper wire, which has a sufficiently stable lacquer coating, and water serves as a heat sink, i.e. The cross section of the heat sink will be equal to the inner diameter of the tube. And this is not 0.2-0.3 mm, but 4-5 mm.
If this way is not used, then the thin copper wire when contacting the PVC tube definitely will pay it, especially if the heating was turned on in the air. And with liquid is quite safe. Specially rolling this heating floor within a month in the air before stuffing into the aquarium when restarting.
40 watts for 10 meters of wire is not so much, but let's see ...
In the salt warmer, the appearance of bubbles can be associated with the release of gas during electrosise - on alternating current 50 hertz this process is not completely removed.
I don't like salt either, because a metal conductor "threw" through the water.
The use of the usual telephone pair (macariality) in polyethylene isolation is quite real. You only need to feed a very small voltage from the very thick winding of the transformer.
I think that with the "usual" noodle is better not to bother. Isolation reflux after several cycles heating-cooling.
For small currents, you can try to use the same network computer cable only for outdoor use. There are many species.
P.S. There is a wire with steel residential. And there is still a rope in a plastic shell. Here it is steel.
What will affect knowledgeable people about such a wire.
Kolchuginsk plant.
Wire 4 squares one lived.
Melting temperature is thick on the view of the shell as honey hose, the melting point of the shell is 500 !!! degrees.
----------------------
And even if you pave the PVC hose, thick-walled and subscribe to the heating system or to a separate small heater (container) with its not a large pump?
and I made the heating cable from the nichrome wire, the length was picked up the length of the aquarium, so that 3-4 branches could be paved. The degree of heating was regulated by voltage (selection of transformer windings), received 7.5 m cables with T \u003d 41C (wrapped the thermometer cable), 24V voltage.
You can buy warm cables in the trading network, but you should know that the cost of them is quite high. But, with a certain skill and some technical skills, you can try to make a heating cable with your own hands using for this, alternative material.
Experienced craftsmen claim that the most appropriate replacement of the branded heating cable is the so-called "field" - a power telephone cable, which is intended for the military field communication device, its official marking - P-274M. It is thin, rather durable, hard, has a good and reliable insulation, can be used in a humid environment.
When installing the "wildfish" inside the plumbing pipe so that at the end of the veins do not bare, it is better to spread it into two wires. Then the single wire bend in half and twice again. In two open ends, it is necessary to provide a sealed ride of the wire, it can be built from the flange from the flexible eyeliner for water. Entering should be really sealed and not to miss a drop of moisture, for this fitting, with the extinguishes inside the wires, you need to pour epoxy glue and slightly add a slightly, the asshole will allow you to tighten the connection well.
In this way, heating can be arranged not only for water supply, but also for sewage. The strength of the current, passed by the "wildfoot" should not exceed 9a ..
"Just make a connection of wires in the opposite end" that is, to move?
Yes, that is, closer ..
Hello! I got the heating cable ENGL 1 heating 180Gradusov. Hello sold, it is not possible to change it. How to use it with metal-plastic pipes?
What exactly confuses you? You bought a passive cable with a maximum operating temperature of 180 degrees. Based on paragraph 3.1.8 for the operation of this cable, additional means of automatic temperature control are required. In other words, you need to connect this cable from the device, which will monitor the cable temperature (it is cable and not liquid in a pipe or pipe - otherwise, by reaching a certain temperature, irrevocable changes in the insulation of your cable or tube) will begin.
This recommendation for the middle strip of Russia. For the north and 2.5 meters there will be little. Yes, and in the middle lane it is better to be restrained. It is believed that the depth of the primer of the soil in the central part of Russia reaches 1.5 meters. This is the average indicator. But frosts are different for weeks. The depth of the freezing depends on the humidity, the density of the soil. The drainage depth indicator does not take into account that the pipe may climb under concrete base roads cleaned from snow, under belt foundation Fence, under a paving. All this in one degree or another increases the degree of water freezing, and with a small water flow (for example, you left for a couple of days) this may lead to unpleasant consequences. Kopinate trench deeper.
I mounted a pipe at a depth of 2 meters. Despite the fact that the site in general and the article in particular is devoted to what can be made independently, dig a trench in 2 meters deep is better to charge migrantar. It will be cheaper in every sense. Praise your health. The average prices for this kind of work are not changed for many years and make up approximately 350 rubles per cube, and in our case (trench 0.5 m x 2m) for the trafficphone meter. And this cost includes the workout of the soil, and then the backstage of the mounted pipe. And you can bargain.
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Practice has shown that the most optimal to date is the use of PND pipes (low pressure polyethylene) PN10 for drinking water. These pipes do not rust, like metal, withstand pressure up to 10 atmospheres (they say that even up to 50 atmospheres, be careful, more cheap PN 6 pipes come across), it is strong enough, it's easy to be stuffed, because often the waterways discharge zigzags , perfectly tolerate the cycles of freezing. Plastic elastic metal and polyethylene pipes From the freezing does not tear as metal. Fittings for PND pipes are kopeck, mounted quickly, simply and without the use of any tool (elementary hands). Perennial exploitation practice has shown that it is fast ball craneWhat will flow the PND connection, twisted with one hand. PND pipes are very cheap. The cost of decent 32 pipes of the well-known manufacturer is 30-35 rubles per meter. For laying water supply, a pipe with a diameter of 32 mm, as well as 25 mm.
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To ensure that water is inserted into the house most often come to make a hole in concrete: monolithic foundation or factory FBS block. Pipe diameter 32 mm. Despite the seeming simplicity, make such a hole is not easy. Of course, it is good if you have a diamond tool or at least a SDS-MAX perforator with a 40 mm breakdown bromide. But not yet born with a grinder in their hands. Everything that I found in my farm for these purposes is a household low-power perforator SDS-Plus Makita HR-2450 and 10x400. The bur into 24x400 is not suitable for a diameter of nor long. But I decided to try. And I did it. Everything went 3 hours. Nothing was used from the tool anymore. Technology is such. Drum in drilling mode with a blow of 4 holes 24 near two rows. Each hole leaves for 15 minutes. Further S. back side Walls (when the trench is already dug) trying to get coaxially into the same holes. Next, the same brown in only the impact only break between the partition holes. I had 18 cm "peak" and "blade", but there was no sense from them. This is the longest and unpredictable part of the work. Oddly enough, a 24x400 brown, designed for drilling, I quickly and effectively broke all partitions and could turn the pipe into the resulting hole. That's what it means to the drill from Drebo;) By the way, the perforator did not overheat during the work, so there were no breaks. In addition, unlike some professional perforators, with whom I had to work, the emission of air is well made in Makita HR-2450 - bottom and side. It does not prevent working and does not raise the dust pillars. Of course, there are borants and 32 for SDS-PLUS. But the cost of such drills from 1800 rubles at the commercial cost of the opening from companies 1500 rubles. From a financial point of view, it makes sense to be enclosed and the fact that there is. ;) Despite the very dusty and not very pleasant work, I did not trust it with Tajiks, since according to the experience, I would have left without a drill and without a perforator;) they can be entrusted only to the shovel, and that - be sure to break.
I, as a person who came across the freezing of water pipes, I recommend to mount the heating cable with a pipe, on every fireman. And despite the fact that proper montage The cable is unlikely to need, anything in our life happens. Naturally, the pipe frozen in the ground will only catch up to mid-May. But it seemed to me unreasonable to buy the dear heating cable and instead I took the usual penny field cable of the P-274. The cable has very strong isolation, which years without harm is in the open sky. Inside the cable together with copper veins there are steel. It is they who provide the "heating" effect of the cable. Of course, to 220V, this cable cannot be connected directly. It all depends on the length of the cable. The voltage is calculated approximately 1-1.5V per cable meter. With a length of 30 meters, voltage is required approximately 36V and current 8-10a. With such parameters, the cable will be heated to about 60 degrees. Such a temperature will quickly melt any ice cork. Since the cable dual to work, it is necessary at the opposite end (well, well) through the terminal box to connect two end of the cable and sealed. The solution is simple and most importantly very cheap, although it requires the use of a suitable power supply unit (transformer, you can find suitable on the market for very reasonable money). I wrapped the water pipe with a field cable with a step of about 10 cm. So the efficiency of defrost will be higher.
Since we make installation of the water supply on your own, why not mount the point of collecting information about the temperature underground. It is enough to fix 3-4 sensors on the track, so that in any moment you can manually or automatically control the soil temperature. If the temperature begins to fall below +5 degrees, the system can automatically turn on the heating cable or inform the owner by voice, by email or using SMS. As sensors, I took the DS18B20 elements that operate on a total 1-Wire bus. At cost from 40 to 70 rubles per piece are insignificant costs. The role of cables used a cheap shielded twitched category 5 (FTP). Of course, it is a bit more expensive as unfounded, but more stronger due to the foil layer and is less susceptible to interference with a large branch length. I hung on a 4 sensor highway in the most responsible and potentially dangerous parts of the track. A line with the sensors just in case connected to a separate Master of the DS9490R network, which, however, with the help of the OWFS program, fits with all the available devices available in a single system. Sensors after soldering were protected by heat shrink tubes, sealant and a layer of special plastic glue. So let's see what winter in the middle strip the temperature at a depth of 2 meters in fact. I promise to lay out the schedule.
For considerable importance, in order to protect the water in a pipe from freezing with a long lack of a duct and to increase the efficiency of possible defrosting with a heating cable, I mounted a layer of thermoflex with a thickness of 13 mm or 9 mm. For low costs (approximately 25 rubles per meter), sleep is still calmer. In addition, the energyflex provides additional protection as pipes and cables.
Energyflex is a foamed polypropylene, does not miss moisture and protects the pipe from freezing. In the prosecution of a fur coat for a pipe.
So far, the trumpet in combat conditions has not accounted for, the summer is still, but the preliminary tests of the system were carried out. A suitable transformer was found in family stoppers. Another Soviet, almost military, and therefore excellent. Experiments have shown that the proposed scheme works that the pipe and water in the pipe are quickly warmed up to temperatures, which, however, is safe for both the wire isolation and the pipe itself. To assess the scale of the transformer, I put a matchbox bought in the nearest supermarket, which, as it turned out later, I was depicted comrade Stalin as if to confirm the above.
=
Conclusions: Make a warm floor for a penny yourself - real !!!
The "warm floor" system is no longer a wonder. This article will help you figure out not only with the principle of the work of a water and electric warm floor, but also to carry out its own hand. This will significantly reduce the financial costs and avoid possible errors in the installation process.
Comfort in our house is inextricably linked with warmth. To live without comfortable temperature in the room not only is not cozy, but also unsafe for human health. In this article, we will look at the version of the heating system, which is very popular with consumers - warm floors (electrical and water). Having become acquainted with this material, you will learn much more information about warm floors than watching ordinary advertising booklets. From which major parts consist of a warm floor, how to install it, which are the features of the use of such systems - we will talk about all these aspects in the article.
Warm floor has a long history. Naturally, in ancient Rome, it was not about modern electric warm floors, but the principle of heating the floor of the Roman bath is the same as when the warm floor is operational. Smoke from the furnace on special channels passed under the floor and heated the room. In addition, the stones retained the heat for quite a long time, which allowed more economically to spend the combustable material. With the advent of steam (water) heating, this principle of heating premises was also not forgotten. Warm floor that is heated by water is used quite widely and today. In the last 30-40 years, electric warm floor is very popular.
Roman Bath in Beirut
There are a lot of reasons for this - ranging from simplicity in installation and maintenance, ending with durability and cheap electricity. Moreover, in cold climate conditions (Scandinavia countries, the extreme north of our country, etc.) electric warm floor becomes simply an indispensable option for heating the premises. There are also options for combined heating - warm floor and water heating. This allows you to significantly reduce energy consumption in the heating season.
Let's deal with what the heating "Warm floor" from traditional water heating is fundamentally different. First of all, this is comfort. Recall the principle of work of traditional heating. The radiator is placed on one of the walls of the room, most often under the window, since it is there that the largest thermal losses are coming. Warm air rises up, thereby displacing colder air, which, in turn heats up when the heating radiator is passing. The most comfortable temperature will be 1.5-2 meters from the radiator. Premises warm-up with traditional heating occurs unevenly. The principle of operation of a warm floor is somewhat different.
The area of \u200b\u200bheating space is many times more than the heating radiator area, since the heating element is usually laid throughout the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. It is enough to remember the old saying that the legs need to be kept warm, and immediately it becomes clear that no other type of heating will create you such comfort in a room like a warm floor. However, there are some specific underwater stones. This is due to the fact that the temperature range in which a person feels comfortable, very small (from 25 to 28 degrees). The comfort zone in the room is how it is changed and is located not at a certain distance from the heating device, but at a certain height throughout the perimeter of the room (associated with the styling of the heating cable). The zone of comfortable temperature is located at the bottom of the room at an altitude of up to 1 meter from the floor. At the top of the room there are colder air layers.
However, this does not cause discomfort in a person, which is due to his physiology. In addition, the warm floor allows you to maximally and simply change the temperature in the heated room - for this one turning the handle of the temperature regulator or the "Smart Home" system. It should be noted that this applies only to electric warm floors. In the case of the use of water or combined warm floors, fast adjustment of the air temperature in the room will be impossible. In addition, you should not forget that such factors such as the presence of furniture in the room, carpeted floors on the floor have a significant impact on the effective operation of warm floor. This is due to the fact that any material has a certain thermal conductivity (measured in W / (M · K)). This indicator is important to us not only when choosing thermal insulation, which will avoid heat loss, but also when selecting a material that will close the warm floor and on which we will walk (linoleum, parquet, laminate, tile, etc.).
The warm floor device is sufficient. Both water and electric floor are mounted on a special heat insulating material, then a filling with cement-sandy solution is filling, over the resulting screed laid tiles, linoleum or any other flooring. The source of heat will serve either water or special electrical cable. Here on the device of this electric heating cable, we will talk in more detail.
1 - overlapping; 2 and 7 - cement and sand tie; 3 - thermal insulation; 4 - mounting tape; 5 - temperature sensor; 6 - heating cable; eight - ceramic tile; 9 - thermostat
Externally cable for the "Warm floor" system resembles an antenna cable. That's just his goal is not to transmit a signal (electricity) per distance, and the transformation of electrical energy into thermal. A very important parameter that is characterized by a warm floor is its specific heat generation. In different manufacturers, this indicator ranges from 15 to 25 W / m. At the same time, do not forget that insulating layerwhich covers the heating element itself, is able to withstand heating up to temperatures above 100 degrees, which is very important, since most often the cable is poured with a screed and it should give heat, while not harming the insulating layer.
Construction of a cable of a warm floor: 1 - insulation of current-handed livers; 2 - heating veins; 3 - drainage conductor (grounding); 4 - foil screen; 5 - external insulation
If the cable is overheated, the insulating layer will be disturbed and a short circuit may be possible. Warm floor repair is a fairly troublesome and expensive occupation, since it is almost impossible to determine the place of damage to the cable. It is for this reason that it is not necessary to choose a cable with a higher specific heat generation and when installing, it is necessary to observe the recommended distance between the threads, as it can also cause overheating and short-circuit of the heating cable. These breakdowns are excluded in the case of the use of water warm floor. But there may be some complications, for example, cracks in pipes, fittings and, as a result, leakage of the coolant. Such an emergency situation in a private house will not have special consequences (you can simply damage your property), but if such a breakdown occurs in an apartment building, then it may have to compensate for the neighbors the results of flooding their apartments. Qualitatively performed waterproofing can minimize possible trouble in case of emergency situations. However, if the warm water floor is connected to central system Heating S. high pressure The coolant, then the waterproofing can be much able to help.
Let's look through the order of mounting the warm floor on their own. First of all, you need to decide why the warm floor is purchased - as an additional heating in the apartment, as a heating system on a glazed loggia, etc. Consider as an example installation of a warm floor in the apartment (room) as an additional heating.
Quite often warm floor mounted in the kitchen and in the bathroom, since it is there that it is possible to put the heating cable under the tile (this is the most common way of mounting a warm floor).
As an additional heating, you will be quite 100-120 W per 1 m 2 area of \u200b\u200bthe room, subject to the mandatory use of heat-insulating material good quality. For a kitchen of 10 m 2, you will need about 45-50 cable meters (this data can be accurately provided by the seller, since the power of the heating cable is different). It is also worth clarifying the seller the minimum allowable distance between the heating cable threads (this is necessary in order to avoid local overheating of the cable).
Before laying the heating cable, it is necessary to free the room from the furniture, remove the old flooring and thoroughly prepare the surface of the floor - align, remove the construction trash, if necessary, make a thin cement screed. After that, you need to prepare a place on the wall to install a special electrical thermostat, with which you will adjust the temperature of the warm floor. If necessary, equip the individual wiring for connecting a warm floor. After performing these preparatory work, it is possible to begin the arrangement of thermal insulation and direct laying of the heating cable. Some masters advise except heat insulation and waterproofing to avoid the formation of condensate near the heating cable. Polyethylene film is used as waterproofing. Modern construction Materials allow you to minimize the loss of useful space (do not forget that thermal insulation, cable, cement screed is all reduces the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room together).
Thus, the thermal insulation is quite often used by foofol - a modern heat-insulating material, which has a special coating of foil with a thickness of about 14 μm and polyethylene foam with self-adhesive layer. This material is very thin and light, while the thermal conductivity coefficient in the foam is 0.049 W / (M · K). The foam comes in rolls, after laying the foam foil up, the joints must be kept between rolls to smoke with a special assembly tape. After the insulation is fully laid throughout the perimeter of the room, a thin reinforcing grid is stacked on top of it, the main task of which is:
Cable installation is performed using a mounting tape that is fixed on the floor. This tape allows you to exclude the beggars, keep all the distances between the cable loops. The cable is laid in increments of about 20-25 cm. The normal operation of the electric forple floor is not possible without installing a special thermal sensor. It is necessary to envisage its replacement without destruction subsequently concrete screed. To do this, the thermal sensor is usually installed in a special tube, which is poured along with a cable cement screed.
Before making the fill of the mounted warm floor, it is checked, check again the correctness of all installation and reliability of the connections.
There should be no errors at this stage, since to eliminate them will have to dismantle the cement screed. The health of the warm floor can be checked not only by supplying the voltage to the heating cable, but also by measuring the cable resistance using a special tester. All parameters of such measurements The manufacturer indicates a passport on the product. After the test, the cement screed up to 3-4 cm thick is made. The fill must be carried out evenly, it is necessary to pay special attention to the fact that the voids are not formed in the screed, as this can lead to overheating and outlet of the heating cable. After you made the fill, you need to wait for her complete drying.
If the work on laying outdoor coating It can be started after 4-5 days, then the control check for a warm floor can be carried out no earlier than 30-35 days. And the point is not at all that the raw screed can cause a short circuit and bring the heating cable. Most materials under the influence of high temperature expands, and at low temperatures are compressed. Any material has its own thermal expansion coefficient. In the case of inclusion of a warm floor until the complete drying of the concrete screed, it will take place uneven drying of the solution, the formation of cracks and voids in the screed with which we fought so carefully during the fill. This will increase the risk of premature failure of the heating cable. It is also worth considering the location of furniture in the room and not lay the heating cable in those places where it will be placed.
Installation of warm water floor is carried out in about the same sequence as the installation of electric. However, do not forget that water and electric heating Submissions to different laws of physics. If the electrical heating cable has the same (or almost the same) temperature over its entire length, then it is somewhat different with water floor. We have already told about how heating the coolant (in this case of water) with the help of a variety of heating devices - electrical and gas boilers, boilers on liquid and solid fuel etc.
The maximum temperature of the coolant will have immediately upon admission to the heating system from the chamber of the boiler heating. Circulating on the system, water gradually gives its heat and returns to the boiler has already been significantly cooled, which means that the coolant that will circulate along the warm sex system, at the inlet and at the output will have different temperatures. With incorrect installation you should not wait efficient workSince the room will warm up unevenly. About how to prevent errors when installing a water warm floor, we will tell a little later in order not to violate the description of the sequence of work performed.
There are several options for laying a water warm floor:
The flooring installation system of water warm floor in turn is divided into:
The concrete system of mounting a water warm floor (the same as the styling system of the electric warm floor described above) was most distributed due to its low installation cost. All laying work is made in several stages. The sequence of work and materials are used as the same as when laying an electric warm floor. Water warm floor pipes are not afraid of overheating unlike electrical cable.
However, their laying must be performed not only neatly, without strong bends and fractures, but also in a strictly defined sequence. The light reinforcing mesh in this case does not fit, it is necessary to use the armature with a diameter of 4-5 mm, the cell size is about 150 mm. This is due to the fact that the water warm floor has quite considerable weight. Power styling pods can be the most different (water pipes are not afraid of overheating), but in any case the distance between the pipes should not be more than 300-400 mm, as this will significantly reduce the efficiency of this heating system, and will also lead to the appearance on the floor of cold strips - Sections of the floor with lower temperatures. Pipes are attached to the floor with the help of dowels and clamps.
In practice, several options for laying pipes of water warm floor are used:
Recommend some one way of laying pipes as the most effective would be incorrect. When installing a water warm floor, a number of factors should be taken into account, including outer walls, the presence of window outlooks, etc. - it is in these places that the pipes with a hotter coolant should be held.
The length of one loop of the water warm floor pipes (from the entrance to the exit) should not be more than 100 m, due to the fact that there will be significant hydraulic losses in the system and such a floor will not work effectively. On 1 m 2 of the area of \u200b\u200bthe room takes about 6-7 pipe meters of the pipe. It depends on the distance between the pipes.
Both ends of the pipe (feeding and reverse) are displayed in the switching (collector) wardrobe. This cabinet is mounted either in a special niche in the wall (it still has to be cut out), or make the overhead (open). The placement of the collector cabinet depends only on your desire and opportunities (the arrangement of the niche in the wall is a fairly expensive type of work). In the collector cabinet, not only pipes will be placed, with which the warm floor is connected to the main heating contour, but also valves that will allow not only overlapping the coolant, but also adjust the temperature of the floor in the room.
Adjusting the temperature can be made not only manually, but also with the help of a special electronic valve, which will respond to signals from the thermal sensor (the thermal sensor is installed in the same way as when the electric warm floor is installed). This leads to the rise in the cost of the system, but more conveniently in the process of its operation, since it makes it possible to connect a water warm floor to the system " Smart House" This system will allow not only to control the temperature in the room, but also save you from the flood, which can happen at the time of the pipes of heating.
Before filling the pipes, cement screed must be cleaned with the entire system to eliminate possible leaks of the coolant.
Water warm flooring system allows you to exclude from the installation process cement tie.. This not only speeds up the process of commissioning, but also significantly reduces the cost of possible repairs. Moreover, this system is much easier than the traditional water warm floor, which can significantly reduce the load on the ceiling plates, bearing structures Buildings (weight 1 m 2 of the traditional concrete water warm floor is about 250-350 kg, while the weight of the filamental floor is about 35-50 kg, depending on its type). There is one significant remark - it is impossible to connect water warm floor to a centralized heating system without prior approval with housing and communal services and heat supply organizations.
These systems are most often found in those homes where the main role in heating plays a water warm floor. In the spring or autumn, it is necessary to have such a period of time when it is not possible to include completely heating in the house (the microclimate is quite favorable), but to create even more comfortable conditions, it will not be superfluous to increase the temperature in the room.
If in homes with individual heating there is still an opportunity to independently include heating and adjust it to the minimum temperature regime, then there is no such possibility in houses with central heating. Here you will come to help the combined warm floor, the electrical part of which will create a favorable microclimate in your apartment. Installation of such sex is carried out in the order we wrote about. Do not forget that the simultaneous exploitation of electric and water warm floor can lead to overheating of the heating cable. These features should be considered when installing this design.
We hope that this article will help you make a successful, profitable and right choice, and the acquired equipment will delight perfect work.
The heating of premises based on warm floor technology is much more efficient than heating by conventional radiator batteries. Heating floor provides room with normal air circulation: warm air is lower, cooler - above.
There are two floors of the floor in the house: electrical and water. But the electrical method of heating of the floor is very cost in operation, so water heating is greater popularity.
To warm the house with water, a certain number of pipes will be required. Water will circulate on the system, and warm the floor.
The essence lies in the fact that it is necessary to put pipes under the floor covering. The process is not the easiest, but anyone, if desired, can figure it out.
Since such a variant of the heating of the floor requires a considerable amount of pipes, it is mainly installed in the private sector homes.
Multi-storey houses are not adapted to this type of heating. Management Company It just won't give permission to install a warm floor of general heating.
New buildings in their mass are equipped with systems for both radiator and water heating.
In order for the installation of a warm floor to be successful, you need to study all the nuances of this process.
In order for the floor to be a comfortable temperature, the water temperature in the batteries should not be higher than 45C. In this case, the sexual coating itself will be heated to 28c.
But in most cases, the heating systems give the minimum temperature of the order of 65c. Only gas boilers are able to maintain the desired temperature level. They are effective at low temperatures.
If other heating systems are used, then the submeener node is required. It adds cooling water from the return pipeline to the existing heating system.
The cooling effect is as follows: Hot water from the boiler falls into thermostatic valveopening the addition of cold water from the return pipe with a strong increase in temperature.
There are two technologies for which pipe fixation is made:
Dry eyeliner. On mats of polystyrene foam or wooden plates, metal strips with cooked pipe channels are laid out. So heat is even distributed when heating.
The plywood or other rigid materials is littered from above. If you plan to install warm floors under the tile, then all the technology remains unchanged, only the tile is stacked on the OSP or Phane with a special glue.
Laying in a screed or "wet" version of the styling of pipes. For such technology, several layers will be required:
Floor coating is laid after the screed grabbing. It is possible to put waterproofing the reinforcing grid under the insulation.
The damper tape must be used when installing the floor. It is placed where two contours are connected, having finished it over the entire area.
How to make a warm floor, and what system to use? Both systems have the pros and cons.
The option of dry laying will be more costly if you buy all the components in the finished form. But their mass is much less and you can use them faster.
The screed has a big mass, and not any foundation can withstand it. Only having a foundation with a margin, you can allow the installation in this way.
In case of damage to pipes laid by the screed method, it will be very difficult to fix them. The screed will have to be broken, and the repair itself can cause damage alongside the sceneled pipes.
You can use the warm floor in the screed only on the 28th day after laying, because the concrete should dial strength. For almost a month you have to do without heating.
If the house has a wooden floor, then the screed and high temperatures We contribute to quick damage to wood.
It is necessary to study all the source data of the house to avoid serious consequences. Perhaps in some cases it is better to resort to dry technologies.
The warm floor in his home is an excellent idea that can be implemented, sobering in information about this process.
It is worth examining the information found, see the photo of the warm floor on the Internet, as well as the schemes of pipeline systems for floor heating.
Is it possible to make a warm floor of water with your own hands in an apartment or a private house? At first it may seem that it is not real. If you at least once watched the professional installers work, then in an unprepared person, this picture should have caused a feeling of confusion.
Twisted tubes of liquid heating, manifolds, thermostats and other equipment - how to figure out the non-professional?
It turns out to be a warm floor with water, with your own hands, to mount well for the most ordinary person, it is worth only to follow step-by-step installation instructions and choose the right equipment at the planning stage.
So, what do you need to collect a warm floor of water with your own hands? Let's go on points.
The basis of any successful work is advance planning that takes into account all the nuances of the upcoming processes. In the arrangement of liquid heating, there are no small things for which you can not pay attention. All work must be thought out in advance, the equipment must be calculated, and each stage of work is thoroughly calculated.
If it is the only source of heating indoors, the water floor power is calculated by a simple formula:
Number of square meters of room / 10.
Thanks to such a formula, you can simply calculate the power required for the heating of the room with good (on a new SNiP) insulation and the ceilings with a height of 2.5 meters.
The next step is selected length and cross-section of tubes of liquid low-temperature heating. Each normal manufacturer lakes its product and in characteristics indicates the parameters of heat transfer to the pipe memory meter of the pipe. At the same time, naturally, the pipes of different sections will have a different indicator of heat transfer on the temporal meter.
It is enough to make the calculation of the power of heating for this room. 1.8 kW of thermal power will be required. Next, we divide the resulting thermal power to heat transfer 1 of the water tube heat transfer and we obtain a total length.
One room is usually mounted alone. Although sometimes, depending on the total area and cabbage of the room, 2 or 3 collectors can be mounted.
Why is the standard ceiling height takes 2.5 meters? Because higher rooms do not rationally warm the warm floors. For example, for the room with the second light, the built-in outdoor convectors or the PLEN heating system rather than liquid low-temperature floors.
The temperature controller is responsible for the constant maintenance of a comfortable temperature in the tubes of a warm floor. Since the pipes are mounted under the screed or a picker coating, the temperature of the tubes themselves is higher than the temperature in the room they heat.
The easiest way to purchase equipment for warm water floors is monitored by the heating equipment market. In the process of such a monitoring, you will know which specialized company sells equipment at the lowest price.
Why not buy the cheapest options in different places - tube from one supplier, and collectors and regulators, for example, in the other? Because the equipment purchased in different places can "not docile" during installation.
To fully realize all the advantages of warm water floors, it is necessary to mount it correctly. The best way to install will be the installation of a tubular system for reinforced concrete overlap of the first or second floor (for a private house) and the subsequent arrangement of the screed.
For an apartment in a multi-storey apartment building house, you will not have this choice and you will have to equip heating for those overlaps, which are laid by the designer and implemented by builders during the construction of the house.
How best to prepare concrete overlaps to install liquid heating tubes?
First, all the finish coatings should be dismantled if they have already been mounted on overlap.
Secondly, it is necessary to align the surface of the concrete overlap, remove the influx of concrete and other irregularities.
Thirdly, you need to completely clean the overlapping from all pollution, remove the remnants of the materials remaining from the work, during which you left the concrete surface - dust, pieces of concrete.
We will pass the sequentially all stages of the warm water floor mounting on concrete floors:
The substrate is stacked on the concrete surface. If this substrate is made of foamed polyethylene for a film floor, then for tubular - from foil materials.
Then the pipe is installed and connecting it to fittings and shut-off valves, as well as to the collector.
And finally, the tubes are connected to the heating regulator.
Our liquid low-temperature heating system is ready. It remains only to check it and adjust.
Check and adjusting liquid heating
Checking the system is performed with a gradual increase in pressure and the same gradual rise of temperature in the tubes.
Check should be made at least a day in different modes.
In the case of successful check, it will be possible to start arranging the screed and the subsequent installation of the finishing flooring. Adjusting the warm water floor is made only after the finish coating is installed.
