Modding is not the final result,
And the process of its achievement.
avernoe, talking about what modding is, those who are a little familiar with computers, the occupation is completely useless. Being originally as a hobby of computer enthusiasts, modding has long ceased to be exclusively the case of Kulibins and turned into an integer industry. Now and do not count how many companies specialize in the production of modding accessories. And what only today you will not meet in the market - here are specialized buildings, from fully transparent (such as aquariums) to enclosures with a window, and coolers with a variety of backlight, and neon lamps, and refuses, and control panels, and braids for loops, and lattice For fans, and phosphors ...
In classical understanding, modding is any independent modification of the computer or even the device connected to it. But, of course, above all, modding is a modification of the PC system unit. When from the boring, the ordinary PC body creates a masterpiece in terms of design - this is a real modding. You can, of course, buy a ready-made modding case, but ... it is so eashetative and even went - to buy in the finished form that by definition you need to do it yourself.
So, this article we open a whole cycle of illustrated articles on the practical reasons for modding. We will pass together all the steps and study the main techniques of modification of the computer's case - from cutting holes and the windows in the case before painting and installing the backlight lamps.
weight tools:
Before starting the curly cutting of the case, we strongly recommend stretching on some old building (which is not sorry) or just on a piece of leaf iron. In our case, we chose old buildings for modding (by the way found on the garbage), deciding to realize all their fantasy in them and turn the old rhylad into a new stylish body.
It is worth noting that for modding you can use any case, but it is better that the thickness of the wall walls was not too small. As a rule, the thickness of the walls of the housing is from 0.8 to 1.5 mm, but if it is less, it is better to look for another case. In addition, try to use a housing with smooth side walls for modding, because otherwise you have problems with the painting case.
Initially, only one seat under the 80-millimeter fan at the bottom of the front panel was provided in the housing. Of course, for a modern, powerful PC, this is clearly not enough (especially given the fact that our body is rather thin). Therefore, our modding will have a practical purpose - the creation effective system Heat sink.
So, we cut three holes in the housing under 120 mm fans (these holes are called flocholas) and the side window, which will be subsequently closed from the inside with a tinted plexiglass. One 120 mm fan will be installed under top panel Cases and will work on blowing hot air from the PC housing, the second fan will be located on the sidebar and will work on blowing cold air into the system unit. The third fan, which will also suck cold air inside the system unit, will be installed on the front panel. The side window will have the shape of two composite rectangles with rounded corners.
Standing a hole for a fan in the top cover of the housing is necessary, without disassembled the body and without removing the power supply and optical drive from it, so that the fan cannot be installed neither the power supply or an optical drive. If we are talking about the side wall of the case, then the fan must be positioned so that it does not touch the video card, and the center of the opening is best placed downstairs. In our case, this side fan will work on blowing cold air into the PC housing.
Placing the hole under the fan is best using the lattice for the fan (Fig. 1), which is also called the grill. For the marker, apply a circle under the fan along the grill contour, as shown in Fig. 2.
Similarly, we appline the contour of the future hole, as well as the contour of the future window on the side wall of the case (Fig. 3).
When the window is marked, do not make roundings too small, otherwise they will be difficult to cut. It is also not necessary to make the window too large, because, firstly, the body will lose strength, and secondly, it is necessary to provide a place for fastening the backlight lamps from above and below. This remark concerns and mark up the hole under the fan - leave the case below the case to install the backlight lamp. When the window is marked and the holes under the fan on the side surface of the case, it is recommended to retreat from the edges of the housing by no less than 5 cm.
After that, the housing can be fully disassembled, removing the entire filling from it and separating the side walls, the front panel and the top cover (Fig. 4). Next, you can proceed to the most important step - to cut holes and side windows.
So, in the first lesson, we will get acquainted with the main universal instrument for modding - dremel (Dremel). The device is not cheap, but, unfortunately, replace it with nothing, and since it is soon there is a desire to engage in modding, then you will have to upset. But believe me, Dremel is really universal in all respects tool, and it costs money spent.
In principle, the dremel now does not quitely call the whole class similar on the functionality of the tools manufactured by various companies. However, the dremel can be only one produced by the company Dremel (www.dremel.com). Dremel is a miniature drill, but with a much greater speed of rotation. Actually, the speed of rotation is the main characteristic of the dremel, which distinguishes it from similar tools. Other important parameters are the weight and dimensions of the drenel. Dremel, unlike perforator, which is kept by two hands, should be such that it can be kept with two fingers at the base in the same way as the fountain pen. For our work, it is important that the maximum speed of rotation amounted to at least 30,000 rpm. A whole arsenal of all sorts of nozzles is produced to the drenel (more than 150), which makes it a truly universal tool.
There are various modifications of the dremel, for example Dremel Professional, Dremel Multipro, wireless Dremel Multipro. These devices differ in their functionality and cost, and for the purposes of computer modding, we recommend using the Dremel Multipro model. The fact is that the Dremel Professional model, which is much more expensive, the mass of unnecessary "beams", which we do not need, and in the wireless model - insufficient speed of rotation. The model of Dremel Multipro the speed of rotation varies from 5,000 to 33,000 rpm, which is quite enough for our purposes.
Dremel is sold with a set of all kinds of nozzles, however, not all the necessary nozzles are included in the set. For our purposes, we also need a cutting wheel reinforced with fiberglass, type 426 or 456 (missing standard delivery). So it costs to immediately take care of their purchase. Reinforced fiberglass cutting circles (Fig. 6) are intended directly for cutting of metals.
So, consolidating the cutting circle in the mandrel 402 (included in the package of dremel), set it into the cartridge of the drenel. The speed of rotation must be maximum. Take the dremel in hand as shown in Fig. 7. Cut is necessary on the inside of the outlined circle so that the border of the circle remains visible. Cutting is carried out only by the edge of the circle, so in no case cannot be applied in the direction, coaxial drenel.
The cutting of the housing is absolutely necessary to produce without effort. Cutting occurs only due to the speed of rotation of the circle. Dremel movement during cutting should be like small strokes. Please note that during cutting you should move your brush, but not a hand. Dremel must move in such a way that the sparks formed by the spark would be directed against the transit movement of the cutting circle.
The circle under a 120 mm fan is cut from about 20 minutes. Well, the latter, what I would like to immediately warn: do not forget during all work on cutting metal to wear safety glasses.
Cutting holes with dremel is shown in Fig. 8, 9 and 10.
After cutting the hole, the resulting circle is usually far from ideal (see Fig. 10). Indeed, it's not so easy to cut the perfect circle, especially if there is little practice.
Therefore, the main thing is that in the process of cutting the circumference scheduled to the marker remains unsuitable. At the next stage, with the help of the same cutting circle, it is necessary to more carefully process the edges of the circle. This is done by light movements of the outer edge of the cutting circle, as shown in Fig. 11. After such treatment, the edge of the circle acquires a completely balanced form (Fig. 12).
Well, finally, at the last stage it is necessary to bring the circumference to the perfect state. To do this, we will need to use the nozzle of grinding stone from aluminum oxide (Fig. 13). Dremel must be kept with two fingers so that its axis is perpendicular to the surface of the housing (Fig. 14).
Fig. 13. Aluminum oxide nozzle for grinding
After the circle for the fan is cut and polished, you need to apply the grill to it and place four screws for screws, with which the fan and the grill will be attached to the case. The holes for the screws are dried with a dreamer or a small drill with a drill with a diameter of 3.2 mm. When drilling, set the minimum speed of rotation of the dremel (Fig. 15).
So, after the holes are ready, you can proceed to cutting the window in the housing. However, most likely, after cutting the first window, you will have to replace the cutting wheel to a new one. For example, to cut the two holes under the fans and the side window, we had to change the four cutting circles. Worn cutting circles are shown in Fig. sixteen.
Fig. 16. Worn cutting circles in comparison with the new round
Taking cutting in this case are the same as when cutting holes, for one exception. The progressive movement of the dremel is carried out not by brush hands, but with the whole hand, which allows you to cut in a straight line (Fig. 17). Rounded corners cut through the sections of straight lines, which are then processed (Fig. 18).
After cutting the window, it is necessary to process edges with grinding stone made of aluminum oxide (Fig. 19).
So, after cutting holes under a 120 mm fan and windows in the case, we must cut hole hole in the front wall of the housing to install the fan. Our enclosure is not intended to install a 120 mm fan on the front panel and has a landing space for installing an 80 mm fan with a characteristic protrusion. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to cut this protrusion (Fig. 20) so that the grill can be fastened on the front surface of the chassis (Fig. 21).
So, all holes are cut through, and you can begin to the next stage - to stripping, grinding and painting the case. This is what we will deal with the next lesson.
One of the most common options for the output of the ventilation pipe from an apartment or a private house - a hole in the wall. It is used for the tributary and for removing the exhaust air. Most often through the wall to the street stretch the ventilation of the bathroom or kitchen. How to make a vent hole in the wall, which tools to use and how to isolate the resulting hole without disrupting thermal insulation, read further.
In apartments or private houses, the most rationally adjustment of ventilation through the wall:
Natural ventilation is based on the principle of draft. Air moves due to the difference of pressures and temperatures inside the apartment and beyond. Such a system does not depend on energy sources and is a design of air ducts and holes, usually overlooking the walls.
Natural ventilation was widely used in the construction of old multi-storey houses, in modern buildings much less often.
One of the problems arising from its operation is the absence of air inflows. It is understood that fresh air penetrates the room through the slots between the window sash, open windows. However, modern windows provide practically complete sealing. Therefore, tenants solve the problem independently, pulling the ventilation through the wall into the street, installing the supply valves.
Physical extracts also often work badly, but to make the passage of ventilation from the bathroom through the wall, you can not in all apartments. It is much easier to build ventilation in the wall of a private house. It is advisable to proceed the node of the passage of ventilation through the wall in advance, taking it with all other designs.
Planning ventilation in the outer wall, decide on the system. One of the most important indicators of air exchange is the speed of movement and temperature.
Apparently therefore people feel worse in rooms with fans. But in some cases without mechanics can not do. For example, if it is not possible to make wide exhaust channels in the outer wall for exhaust ventilation. The higher the speed of the movement of the air flow, the smaller the ventkane cross section. Therefore, often in the outer walls, the ventilation is installed mechanical. It is more expedient to mechanical motivation and indoors of a large area.
Comfort is achieved at a lower velocity of movement of air masses. Air movement speed in natural ventilation In the wall of the apartment is not more than 1 cubic meter per hour, whereas with mechanical can reach 5 cubic meters per hour.
Natural ventilation will work satisfactorily if there is a trim valve on the opposite wall from the exhaust hole.
The supply valves for the passage of ventilation through the wall are made from PVC various models and forms:
Ventilation Mounting Places:
If you remove the ventilation into the street through the wall, in the regions with cold winters through the valve will penetrate the ice air. It is possible to even icing the adjacent segment of the wall.
To avoid troubles, make the ventilation pass through the wall above the radiator.
Cold air will first warm the battery, and then penetrate the room.
Installation of ventilation into the wall is not complicated, but requires accuracy:
Depending on the design of the valves can be equipped with filters, plugs and other devices. But regardless of the "troubleshooting" procedure for installing the same.
the design of the axial fan: 1 - power supply; 2 - air intake grille; 3 - switch; 4 - switch wire; 5 - impeller; 6 - Blinds
In some cases, it is more convenient to resort to the mechanical removal of exhaust air, that is, to set exhaust ventilation through the wall into the street. The main component of the system is an exhaust fan. It is embedded in the exhaust hole in the wall and perfectly performs its functions. As a household presents axial models. Some of them are equipped with blinds that prevent reverse craving.
The fan can run manually or automatically by the humidity sensor command. The most perfect are equipped with a timer that runs the engine according to the specified mode.
How to remove ventilation through the wall - an important question, but first should calculate the characteristics of the equipment:
M \u003d about x in,
where M. - Fan power, ABOUT - the size of the room (in order to get it, multiply the length, height and width of the room), IN - Air exchange depending on the destination.
Air exchange norms:
The best place to install the fan in the wall of the private house is on the opposite side from the source of clean air, but not too close to it. At the top of the wall.
Connect to power supply fans through low-fat fuses, which are installed in the electrical tailor.
If you are in doubt your own electrical knowledge, invite to connect the fan of the professional masters. And to help brave our video.
In today's article, we will try to tell about what techniques can be improved ventilation and reduce the noise level even in the most simple and inexpensive case.
When thinking about the experimental copy, our choice fell on CHENBRO XPIDER II. Since its low price and a very stylish appearance attracts a considerable amount of computer enthusiasts. However, the efficiency of cooling components installed inside it is not very high and slightly "displaces" before compliance with the appearance.
What we will need For its refinement?
First, these are aluminum rails or corner. You can buy them in any construction or economic store. In our case, we have come even more economical - sleds from a broken retractable shelf under the keyboard were used. The farm, as they say, everything will be useful.
Second, it is plastic or metal mesh from acoustic speakers. Technically, it is not very necessary, but if the appearance of your case is important to you, it is necessary to take the choice of this detail seriously - it will be in sight.
In addition to the primary parts, we will use the following tools:
Best
The first reception is the easiest and most accessible to everyone. This is a decrease in local hydraulic resistances or, in Russian, the improvement of the "body produce". Now we will try to explain what is behind such smart phrases.
You probably noticed in the reviews of fans and coolers such specifications As "air flow" and "static pressure". And they indicate the following:
air flow - the amount of air that the fan can be submitted per unit of time;
static pressure - the force with which the fan is pushing this air.
From these definitions, it can be concluded that even if the fan will create a huge air flow, but to have a small static pressure of its efficiency will be almost equal to zero, since the air supply will have too little strength to overcome the resistance in the form of wires or lattices. So we approached the main problem - these are stamped grilles on the holes for installing fans.
Yes, it is stamped lattices that create the main resistance on the way of air movement. If you take a ruler and measure the width of the steel strip, then you will find that it is 0.15-0.30 in relation to the gap between them. Consequently, in the amount of these strips overlap from 15 to 30% of the opening area reserved for ventilation. But, usually, strips are used not only horizontal, but also vertical, which in sum gives from 25 to 40% overlap of the ventilation hole. Hence the conclusion that this lattice reduces the efficiency of the fan installed behind it. In addition, the stamped grille, in contrast to the grill type, has flat sharp edges, which creates additional noise when air moves.
How to deal with this problem? Yes, it's very easy - we take a nipper and "whining" the grid. Next, for safety reasons, processed sections.
We get approximately the result. Now the installed fan can "scratch" air freely throughout the diameter of the impeller.
Similarly, we do with the rear grille. Pay attention to the fan of fan to the housing - the most best Method This is the usual screws with nuts. But to reduce vibration and, accordingly, noise reduction, we recommend using small rectangular rubber gaskets cut from the old chamber.
The next step towards improving ventilation will be the installation of an additional fan.
Since in this case on the side lid there is a very beautiful window, we decided not to spoil its appearance by installing an additional fan on the side. Therefore, we had to install it in front.
Metal plugs of compartments 5.25 "(like their plastic analogues on the front panel) we take carelessly and put it on the sideline - they will also be useful.
So, on the front panel, we have formed a significant space for maneuvers. Top compartment We leave without change - there will be a DVD drive. But under it we install an additional 120 mm fan.
To install it, we need to cut the metal ears from one of one of, seemingly unnecessary, plugs for 5.25 "compartments.
We screw the ears to the fan with ordinary screws with wrenches.
And through the second hole in the ear screw the fan in the second top of the compartment 5.25 ". In rubber gaskets there is no need, since the fan is actually suspended on the springs and its vibration will not be transmitted to the housing.
It is worth noting that this location of the fans in the case is most efficient if the processor uses a tower-type cooler, such as NOctua NH-U12P. In such a situation, the cooler on the processor will pick up cold air from the front fan and serve heated to the rear. A certain similarity of the turbine is formed or, as people say, draft.
Note that in the case when a horizontal type cooler is installed on the processor, such as NOctua NH-C12P, then the installation of an additional fan will be most appropriate on the side cover of the housing (although in our case it is problematic) so that it will take cold air so as This is done in Aerocool ExtremeNGine 3t.
One of the disadvantages of this building is its small height. At first glance, this is imperceptible. However, when installing a massive cooler, for example, when we installed Noctua NH-U12P, it became noticeable that the cooling system of the processor with its dimensional radiator approached the lower ventilation unit of the power supply and half blocked it. Naturally, it entailed increased heating of the power supply elements and as a result, an increase in the speed of rotation of its fan. First, it is superfluous noise, and secondly, the reduction in the service life of the power supply elements is not good.
In order to reduce heat dissipation inside the case and more efficient cooling of the power supply, we decided to make it beyond the housing.
It is for this that we need aluminum rails. For our housing, the length of the first was 500 mm, the second is 350 mm.
On the one hand, two small holes must be drilled on the rails.
And on the other hand, stick a couple of bilateral scotch strips. Scotch will protect your power supply unit from scratches, and will also repay vibration and rattling.
Next to install the rails you need to work a little with a hacksaw and a file. The exact size, unfortunately, we can not give, since the size of the rails and the shape of the body can be different, but you should turn out the result as in the picture. The width of the dug hole should be so that the rails are laid through it with a flat side as close as possible to the side walls of the housing.
On one of the 5.25 "compartments (we turned out to be the second from above) we drill 2 small holes.
At the corresponding height, the holes are drilled and on the side of the chassis of the case.
With the help of small screws, we screw both rails, traveled them through the hole that is previously drunk. A short rail is screwed to the side wall, and a longer - to 5.25 "compartment.
All, on this you can finish the refinement. It remains only to collect the entire system. But it was a little more difficult to do it.
Now you will collect the system so. First, all "insides" are installed, and then the power supply is already installed. Wires from the power supply must be collected in a bundle and stretch through the hole. Holding the power supply with your hand, gradually feed it forward and watch the wires do not catch the cooler or any other element. It is much easier to make this operation together.
When all the wires from the power supply are laid inside the housing, it can be accurately placed in the constructed sleds and it is close to the rear wall of the housing (it is possible to fix with standard screws for reliability, but more likely to do new holes for this). We recommend flipping the power supply to the fan up so that it does not immediately draw the warm air from the housing.
This is how the updated case looks at the side. To reflect the front panel, you can use the mesh mentioned at the beginning of the article. You can give it the desired shape and sizes due to a file, hacksaw and pliers. You can put it on glue or tape.
The housing looks quite pretty. Let's see how much better was the cooling inside it.
Testing
When testing, a stand for testing enclosures was used.
|
Motherboard |
ASUS M2N SLI DELUXE on NForce 570 SLI (AM2, DDR2, ATX) |
|
CPU |
AMD ATHLON 64 3600+ X2 (ADO3600JAA4CU), AM2 |
|
Akasa AK859 CU for Socket 754/939 / 940 / AM2 |
|
|
RAM |
2 x DDR2 800 1024 MB Apacer PC6400 |
|
Video card |
Gigabyte GV-NX76G256D GeForce 7600GS 256MB DDR2 PCI-E |
|
HDD |
Samsung HD080HJ 80 GB 7200RPM 8 MB SATA-300 |
|
Optical drive |
ASUS DRW-1814BLT SATA |
|
Power Supply |
SEASONIC M12II-500 (SS-500GM Active PFC F3), 500 W |
We decided not only to test cooling in the case before and after modding, but also compare results with the indicators of one of the most effective cooling plans - AEROCOOL EXTREMENGINE 3T. True, the price of such a building is much higher than the price of Chenbro Xpider II.
Let's look at the results.
As can be seen that we have done the manipulations allowed to improve the indicators absolutely for all criteria. It should be noted that the revised Chenbro Xpider II approached Aerocool Extremengine 3T to one big confident step, although he can't catch it up.
conclusions
CHENBRO XPIDER II housing and in the basic version is a very good product, especially considering its low cost, and after a small refinement, it also shows excellent results in cooling components. From here it should be concluded that almost any, even the cheapest body can be made enough to cool the system. Well, about the appearance and say nothing - modding gives you absolute and limitless power over the change in any detail. Krable, glit, cut out, and you will definitely find exactly the same, unique, style in which you would like to see your favorite computer. Regarding our experience, then we can safely say that, even putting a minimum designer fantasyWe have a very beautiful and unusual system unit.
Positive consequences of Moddinha:
Negative features:
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Most of the new materials and finished structures embedded in the construction and finishes practically completely eliminates the free movement of air. The tightness provided with them, along with the pros, brought a weighty minus - violation of ventilation processes.
They just need to restore, because, you see, without regular delivery of fresh air to the room in it it is impossible to live!
We know how difficulty problem is solved: exhaust ventilation across the wall on the street will form a normal movement of air masses. A small wall device will provide removal of spent flow and excellent air exchange.
The article proposed by us will familiarize yourself with the selection of the valve selection to organize exhaust ventilation, with the rules for its installation and operation. The information presented to consideration confirm the photo materials, schemes and video instructions.
Natural venation of residential premises is based on the presence of microsers characteristic of wooden window structures. Through such small holes the air regularly arrived outside and removed from the house on the arranged in building structures ventilation channels.
So the apartment carried out a constant change of air masses, which contributes to the normal level of humidity, to remove unpleasant odors, etc.
Regular air voltage updating occurring naturally through a loose fit of the window sashs and door Towns, as well as by conducting, forms the optimal microclimate for life, removes excess moisture, carbon dioxide and other harmful toxic substances
Incorrect air exchange in the house - the problem is almost inevitable when conducting measures to reduce heat loss. By setting new windows and doors, seeking to minimize heat leakage, few people think about ventinging their housing.
But soon the problems are manifested in the form of a stuffy atmosphere, reproduction of mold in the bathroom and other similar phenomena. Soon, the abnormal microclimate begins to negatively affect the health state of those who live in such a house.
Most often, exhaust valves of ventilation in the wall are performed from metal or durable plastic. For conditions of elevated temperature and humidity, for example, for a bath, plastic products are not suitable, but they have proven themselves in less complex situations.
Selecting the valve, it should be taken into account its cross section: rectangular or round.
Same an important indicator - The speed of the air flow on which the device is calculated. The most common are models calculated on the flow 4-6 m / s.
To organize forced exhaust ventilation in an apartment or house, you can use a design consisting of a fan and check valve.
If the valve is selected for the natural ventilation system, it is very important that the valve valve elements are even reacting even into small air flows. But for systems with a weak burden, the presence of an exhaust fan must, so such sensitivity is not needed.
But it is important to choose a fan that is suitable by power depending on the size of the room for which the device is selected. So, for the kitchen, the power of the fan is calculated using a higher coefficient equal to ten, and this indicator can be seven units for the bathroom.
IN multi-storey houses pipe exhaust ventilation must be displayed one meter above the roof to unpleasant odors did not penetrate the lower floors on the top.
In private houses and even in multi-storey buildings, in many cases, it is more convenient to make ventilation exit directly through the wall. To do this, are used models of exhaust valves with a fan, which is inserted into the mounting clutch intended for their location.
You can also use overhead models of fans that are attached on the inside of the wall.
To mount the exhaust ventilating valve in the wall, you first need to make markup and drill the hole in it of the desired size
To install such a simple design, you will need to do enough big hole Under the installation of ventilation in the outer wall of the house. But first you need to choose a suitable device.
Manual models have a democratic price, but they are extremely inconvenient in operation, because they have to constantly remember the need to enable or disable the exhaust valve.
The exhaust fan is installed on the inside of the hole made in the wall, and check valve and protective lattice - from the outside
To automate the process, you can use a timer. You will need to select a temporary schedule, according to these settings, the valve will turn on and disconnect at a specified time. More efficient may be the use of the sensor responding to the level of humidity in the room.
In this case, the device will start working when the air indoor becomes too wet, in when the humidity is reduced, the fan will stop. When choosing automatic control devices, make sure that when the power is disconnected, the previously installed settings are saved.
To provide good air exchange indoors, you need to use a fairly powerful fan. The aggregate is weak in this regard simply will not cope with the movement of a large volume of air masses, as a result, ventilation will be not effective enough.
Selecting a place to install a wall ventilation valve focused on the requirements specified in the instructions of the device manufacturer
When calculating usually use a simple formula:
M \u003d o * in
Calculate the volume of the room, as is known from the school course of mathematics, it is possible as a product of the area and the height of the room. The air exchange rate is determined depending on the purpose of the room.
This indicator should be:
It remains only to determine the size of the room and multiply it to the appropriate ratio to get an indicator that will help choose a valve with a sufficiently powerful fan. You should not take an excessively powerful model, it will only cause unnecessary costs and does not affect favorably on the ventilation process.
When calculating the power of the exhaust fan, it is necessary to take into account the sensitivity of such equipment to the resistance of the system. The presence of a decorative lattice and the valve can reduce the speed of moving the air flow in three to five and even ten times. Therefore, you should not choose a device with minimal sizes and power.
The fan performance should be sufficient in order to exhaust air from adjacent rooms through the valve, and not just from the room in which the device is installed. Before installing installation work exhaust valve With a fan, you need to choose a suitable place.
Hole for exhaust valve is best done at the top outdoor Wall, such a position contributes to effective removal of exhaust air
To do this, use a wall that is maximally removed from the place where the fence of fresh air is made. Usually, the supply ventilation is installed in the walls or windows of such premises as a bedroom or a living room.
For exhaust ventilation, the kitchen is suitable or. As a result, unpleasant odors, excessive water vapors, etc. are also distinguished with the exhaust air.
Hole for exhaust valve must be made in the top of the wall. First perform markup, then start drilling. Hole suitable sizes Make a drill and a feather ring drill. Sometimes you have to use a special tool with a diamond nozzle.
The hollow for the exhaust valve must be in size and configuration to match the size of the fan. This is usually a round device, but sometimes it is more convenient to use a device with a square housing. In this case, the hole under the valve must be hollowed with a perforator with a nozzle in the form of a blade.
The diameter and shape of the hole in the wall for installing the exhaust valve must correspond to the fan characteristics that the device is completed.
Such work is usually accompanied by a large amount of dust, which does not save even the use of an industrial vacuum cleaner. It is necessary before the start of drilling to cover the surface with a film or other suitable materialsTo protect them from pollution.
For the drilling of highly thick outer walls from durable materials You can use the column drilling machine. It is expensive equipment that is cheaper to rented than to buy. Specialized firms Provide a core drilling service at a relatively low price, which depends on the depth of drilling and the material of the wall.
Fan manufacturers expand their rules not only due to changes in the design of the fans (change in the shape of the blades, backlight, the number of blades), but also by increasing the dimensions of the fans themselves. And if earlier the model range of most companies ended with 120 mm fans, then now the size of the senior fans in the line "grown" for 200 mm. It is widely introduced into a mass of 140 mm fans, the purchase of which has long ceased to be a problem, but 180 and 220 millimeter fans only become widely available. Large fans and used to be often found initially installed in the serial premium of the housing, which is logical, because the manufacturer of the housings will not be difficult to cut the blochol not under 120 mm fan, but at 220 mm. But the simple user, having bought a large diameter fan, can face a number of problems when installing such a fan in the case. The purpose of this article and will be a description of the process of installing a large fan on the example of the model Globefan 220mm Blue LED (Y2203012H).
IN model row Globefan fans are three,230 mm models, they differ at the maximum speed of rotation of the impeller. The "slow" model Y2203012L has a maximum rotation speed of 350 rpm, a model with an index M - 500 rpm and 650 rpm flashes a model with the letter H at the end. All models are made with transparent plastic, have a built-in blue backlight.
As can be seen from the characteristics, the Globefan 220mm Blue LED fan has a non-standard thickness - unlike the bulk of the fans, this fan has a thickness of not 25 mm, and 30 mm is worth considering when installing. Consider the GlobeFan 220mm Blue Led fan closer: it has 13 blades, there are 8 transparent spacers on the back of the fan, which not only ensure reliable retention of the fan, but also provide minimally necessary defense The rotating impeller from the wires and the like interference.
Sticker with labeling model back side fan, it can be seen that this model Globefan 220mm Blue LED has an impeller rotation frequency of 650 rpm, consumes 7.2 watts of electricity.
In the wall of the fan Globefan 220mm Blue LED, 6 blue luminescence LEDs are installed, the power wires of which have transparent isolation and are laid in the groovers. Thermoclaster LEDs are fixed.
Globefan 220mm Blue LED fans on sale, usually occur only in OEM configuration, so do not hope to see some glamorous here cardboard boxes And heaps of paper, on which the manufacturer's philosophy is painted. Complete with the Globefan 220mm Blue LED fan, a protective grill is supplied, which externally resembles a grid for automotive acoustics. Mesh with a shallow cell convex in the form of a plastic outer cover. The lid itself has 4 plastic studs to which the fan is attached. Perforated mesh is attached to 4 small cogs. In the plastic lid, the impeller rotation regulator is additionally installed (i.e. single-channel refobas), which reduces the speed of rotation (as well as noise, performance, etc.) of the fan. This refobas is an ordinary variable resistor. It is connected using a small 2-pin connector. Also, for better installation of the Globefan 220mm Blue LED fan, plastic spacers are supplied with it, providing a uniform height of installing the fan on the grill's studs, and, of course, 4 standard screws for fan screw.
The first thing is the photo of the hull without any modifications. As can be seen, it is a standard body of steel with a thickness of 0.8 mm, the cooling of which is limited to two 80 mm fans. This system works 24 hours a day and is used to store data and continuous torrent client operation. It is about this that we will improve the cooling of this PC by installing a 220 mm fan in its housing. The side walls of this case are almost the same, the only difference is that the right wall is perforated. And since the rest of the wall design is the same, then to facilitate the work, I change the right and left wall in some places. Now, during operation, it will not be necessary to calculate the position of the fleuchola on the basis of old holes in the wall, to close them. The left wall "clean" - and we will cut it.
First of all, we take the desired wall and close it with painting tape to prevent the occurrence of scratches during work. Malyary Scotch We choose because of the lack of glue residues on the plated parts after its removal. Next, based on the placement of the power supply and the basket under five-light devices, we draw the location of the fan. Hole for the fan Globefan 220mm Blue LED buck on the inside of the wall of the fan. Do not forget about the revolve controller - it requires an additional window for installation.
Now you can go to the place where all works will be carried out. It is possible to cut the main hole of the fleeucheol with help, but I decided to do with the electric bike. In this regard, with the help of a drill, we pre-make a hole for the electrolovka canvas. Please note that you need to fly inside the window cut, which would then smoothly go to the cut line.
Now tightly press the wall of the housing to the table with the help of clamps - it will not give the wall during the cutting of the jib. We will cut gradually, turning the wall on the table. We insert the electroltrol band in the drilled hole, please note that I use a canvas with a small tooth, intended for cutting metal. Since the diameter of the cut hole is large, the electrolovka in this case is the most optimal tool for fast and high-quality work. Do not forget about the means of protection of vision - we definitely wear safety glasses.
After the end of the cut, we turn out a fairly qualitatively cutting hole - the circumference is smooth and requires minimal processing. Using the electrolybiz, it is better not to rush - it cuts it easily and when quickly cutting can "call" where it is not necessary.
For the final processing of the cutting edge, I use dremel with an empty paper nozzle. It is not necessary to make special efforts, it is enough just to walk the nozzle along the edge processed. You can use an oval file with a fine tooth.
Now, to install the revolt controller, cut the rectangle in the upper right side window. To do this, use dremel with reinforced cutting circle.
Go to the mounting holes. For accurate drilling, hole centers need to be labeled. As kerner, I use a sharpened dowel. Next, drill 8 holes with a drill with a diameter of 3 mm. For mounting the mesh, there are enough 4 holes with a diameter of 3 mm, but for the racks on the plastic grilled cover, a hole with a diameter of 7 mm is necessary. Thus, another 4 holes reassuring first with a drill in 5 mm, and then at 7 mm.
We remove the scotch, protecting the paint and varnish wall covering of possible damage. Now we install the grill for the fan: with the front side of the wall I install a plastic cover, and with the inner - screw the mesh to it.
Now we put on the racks plastic spacers-limiters and screw the fan itself. On this, all the work can be considered finished - the wall is ready for installation in the case.
We set the wall into the housing, connecting the fan to the Molex connector and turn on the computer. Blue LEDs in the Globefan 220mm Blue LED fan is quite bright - shining will be decent. The GlobeFan 220mm Blue LED fan provides a very good air flow, but at maximum turnover noise from it becomes strong, so in the kit and is provided simple refobas. At the minimum turnover, the noise from the Globefan 220mm Blue LED fan is not distinguished on the overall background of the operating system. As you could make sure, work on the installation of a large fan in the case is not difficult - it took no more than an hour, when subtracting time to photographing the process. Be careful and do not forget the proverbs "death seven times, a rejection once."
