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My apartment is located on the 5th floor of a 5-storey building in Istanbul. Trees do not reach this height, the roof is flat, the windows face the sunny side. Therefore, in summer, when the temperature rises to + 40 ° C, the room turns into a branch of the Finnish sauna.

In such conditions, it is impossible to fall asleep and get enough sleep. And since I don't have an air conditioner, I have to somehow get out and try different ways cool off.

For readers website I'll tell you what tricks and tricks I use to cool the room and bed and ensure a comfortable sleep.

To keep the room cold at night, it must be kept cool during the day.

To keep the cold in the room, it is important to properly ventilate it. To do this, I close the windows when the outside temperature rises above + 25 ° C, and open when it drops below this value. The most low temperature lasts from 4:00 to 7:00, so I open the windows in the morning and evening after 20:00.

• To prevent the sun from entering the apartment, it is worth using the correct curtains. I tried various materials and I can say that you shouldn't buy synthetic curtains: they quickly heat up and fade. It is best to use thick white linen curtains.
• So that the heat does not linger in the house, it is also worth getting rid of all dust collectors - carpets, rugs and mountains of pillows. This will make the air cleaner and cooler.
• While airing, you can wet a towel and hang it in front of an open window. This will help cool the room quickly. But don't leave the towel overnight: a room that's too damp can be just as stuffy.

Earlier, when air conditioners did not exist yet, in the heat before going to bed, they wet the floors. The temperature in the room dropped immediately. This made it possible to fall asleep quickly and sleep comfortably.

Another way is to use ceiling fans

They are cheap, mounted on a chandelier and cool the room well. If you have such a fan, check that the switch is in the summer position. Many fans have 2 modes for different seasons.

• If you can't find the switch, check the blades: they should turn counterclockwise so that the air hits the ceiling.

Homemade air conditioner

An ordinary small fan simply drives air, and its motor heats up the room. But any fan can be turned into a real air conditioner.

• To do this, you need to freeze bottles or other containers with water and place them in front of the blades - then cold air will swell throughout the room. When the heat is particularly intense, I freeze 2 sets of bottles and just change them every 4-5 hours.

Cooling the bed

If your bedding is made of satin or synthetics, it is worth replacing these materials with cotton or silk. Cotton sheets absorb sweat well and keep you cool. Natural silk is very light and tends to slightly cool the skin.

• Also use cotton pajamas: they are better ventilated. Or sleep without clothes. What about? Also a way out.
• Another great way to cool off is to put a sheet and pillowcase in the fridge in the morning, and make your bed with them before bed. But do not put the laundry in the freezer: there is a risk of getting sick.
• Memory foam mattresses keep warm well. This is useful in the winter, but inconvenient in the summer. This is my mattress, so in the summer I put on a cotton mattress topper (which can also be put in the refrigerator).

When the sun burns mercilessly, the apartment turns into a real Sahara. We need to cool it urgently. Moreover, both myself and the living space - or even not far from heatstroke. And if there is no air conditioner? (And in general - tired of catching a cold because of this monster). Eureka, we will lower the temperature with improvised means. Internet forums assure that this is quite real.

Method one: Bathe!

Folk wisdom advises all surfaces and metal objects in the room (for example, doorknobs and batteries) wash cold water... Moreover, the colder the water, the better the effect. Do not wipe dry either - let the moisture evaporate, they say, so the air in the room will cool down faster.

It seems that the home thermometer is also tired of the heat and hangs with a sour expression: +32! Well, nothing, I'll wash you now too.

I draw cold water from the tap into a bucket ... Cold water can be called with a big interference - it's hot outside, and the water, after all, comes from the river. I walk with a rag on the floor and window sills. Sweat rolls down like hail, pouring over the face, but it doesn’t get fresher. And the thermometer will not let you lie: the temperature seemed to start to decrease, but literally a couple of minutes later it returned to its original positions. And I didn't even have time to sigh the coolness.

Outcome: does not work.

Method two: Attention, curtain!

The advice on the next forum reads: thick white curtains on the window, and even better - reflective mirror film, will save the room from direct sunlight, guilty of overheating the air. It is best to close the window in order to stop the heat from the street.

I measure the air temperature right behind the glass - +35.5. Finnish sauna, and only. I tighten the window opening with white plastic blinds, sit on the windowsill and hypnotize the thermometer.

After 10 minutes of humble waiting, patience is rewarded: an almost comfortable temperature is set on the windowsill - +30 degrees. Believe me, in a one-room brazier with south windows, this is almost a victory.

If your apartment has been roasting in the sun all day, it will cool down slowly - the thermal conductivity of the air is low. It is best to cool the dwelling with night coolness, and turn it into a darkened cave and batten down the vents with the sunrise.

Outcome: the room became 5.5 degrees colder. Excellent result!

Method Three: Wet T-shirt Contest

Folk methods assure that the increase in humidity in the apartment will help to cope with the heat - place containers with water everywhere, wet clothes and hang wet towels.

I start with a temperature of +32. I put a bucket of cold water in the hall and hang a wet sheet on the dryer. The idea of ​​a wet T-shirt in an apartment does not stand up to criticism: streams flow disgustingly down the back, merging on the floor with rivers laden with sheets. It sloshes disgustingly underfoot.

Outcome:

After 10 minutes, the thermometer is not happy: it stubbornly shows +29. That is, the room became cooler by only 3 degrees.

Method four: Sea breeze

Place the ice cubes in a container with a wide mouth, add table salt and place the bowl in front of the fan. Ice cube trays won't work: the more ice, the colder it gets. They promised that in 10 minutes I would run for a jacket.

The problem of ice-making is easily solved: I freeze a 1.5-liter plastic bottle with water, then I split the lump with a kitchen hatchet. I mix the ice with table salt (there is, perhaps, in every home). The ice hisses and crackles, microgeysers explode on its surface, spraying icy water molecules in all directions. The directional airflow from the fan blows a fresh breeze over me. Bliss! How not to fail the experiment - from the pleasure I almost forgot about the measurements!

Of course, I don't run for a jacket, but in 10 minutes the temperature in the room drops from 35.5 to 26! True, everything ends quite quickly: after an hour, only a bowl of salted broth remains of the ice. But the result was still impressive.

Outcome: the heat was reclaimed as much as 10 degrees. Victory!

Method five: cold accumulators

These are plastic containers filled with a special solution. They are about the size of a pencil case. Sold in stores, one piece will cost around 400 rubles. When frozen, they are used to preserve perishable food - ice cream will not turn into porridge on the way from the store to the house.

I managed to get hold of as many as 15 such batteries. But it seems that this is not enough - they did not even think to cool the air.

Outcome: does not work.

Cooling the air in summer is one of the homeowner's primary concerns. How to use the energy that surrounds us for this purpose and make air conditioning practically free, this article will tell.

The importance of ventilation can hardly be overestimated. We will not repeat what has been described many times and will focus on our own task - to cool and refresh the air in the house. Traditional ventilation systems can be quite expensive for the device due to the cost of components and assemblies, as well as the cost of qualified installation work.

During operation, they consume a significant amount of electricity, especially for cooling the air mass, generate a lot of heat and create noise. The system described in this article is easy to install, energy efficient, requires no special skills, and is intuitive. It should be noted right away that due to its simplicity, it has limited functions, however, it provides for modernization at any site at any convenient moment.

In our case, the term “recuperation” is a synonym for the word “heat exchange”, therefore the concepts “recuperator” and “heat exchanger” are interchangeable. At the physical level, the process consists in cooling / heating air, in changing its temperature due to the consumption of thermal energy, and then mixing. How and why this happens, we will consider further.

Stable energy source

In pursuit of the goal of lowering the temperature in the room in the summer, it is reasonable to ask the question: “Where to give the energy of the heated atmospheric air? How to cool it? " Here the forces of nature come to our aid. The fact that the ground temperature is constant at a certain depth will be our main argument when justifying the energy efficiency of the system.

The soil is capable of endlessly exchanging energy - to cool and heat any medium (air, water), but only to its own temperature at a given depth, which remains constant due to the relative stability of the earth's core.

International practice

Of course, we are far from the first who decided to use the infinite and free energy of the Earth. In European countries, which are usually called developed (Germany, Sweden, Belgium, etc.), this energy has been used since the beginning of the last century. The successes achieved in this field are impressive.

Heat transfer systems for water below ground level are called "heat pumps". These underground and underwater devices heat and cool the entire home. Standard projects have been developed for any building and it is possible to transfer a house from a traditional (gas, electric) air-conditioning system to heat pumps. In a similar, but more primitive way, this energy is used in our country, arranging underground storage of products (cellars).

What is good about a natural heat exchanger

The operation of our recuperator is based on the same physical process as in heat pumps. Focusing on economy, we use this principle, summing it up to our own needs and local realities.

Tasks that an adapted autonomous recuperator can solve:

1. Constant natural ventilation at closed doors and windows.
2. Quick replacement of indoor air with fresh air.
3. Indoor air cooling.
4. Preparing the air mixture for subsequent actions.

Benefits:

1. Absolute environmental friendliness. During the installation and operation of the basic system, toxic materials are not used and no thermal emissions into the atmosphere occur.
2. Safety. The recuperator does not use electric motors (power over 100 W), chemical agents, high voltage.
3. Simplicity and low cost. For forced ventilation only low-power 100 W fans are used. Ventilation takes place naturally.
4. Oxygen is not burned during operation.
5. Low noise level.

Disadvantages:

• the basic system does not provide for filtration, humidity control, heating or other processing of the air mixture (but allows the possibility of installing the corresponding equipment later).

Simple and straightforward system

Autonomous heat exchanger for country house Is a ventilation duct system, partly laid underground, included in the supply and exhaust ventilation circuit. In order to create such a "air conditioner", it is not necessary to understand the intricacies of physical phenomena. You just need to know that it works. You can verify this by going down in the heat to any basement, well or subway.

The principle of operation is as follows:

1. Atmospheric air passes through pipes laid in soil with a constant temperature (usually from +4 to +10 ° C).
2. In the underground part, the cool soil absorbs thermal energy heated air.
3. Cooled air is delivered through ventilation ducts to the premises of the house.
4. At the same time, the exhaust fan removes the saturated and heated air mixture ("old air") from the room.

According to the principle of construction, such systems are divided into two main types: pipe and bunker.

Pipe - consists entirely of pipes. The design can be varied depending on the site conditions. Suitable in case of reconstruction of a house without a spacious basement, but it will take a lot of earthworks.

Bunker or stone - the heat exchanger is a bunker filled with large stones. Occupies less area than pipe (you can arrange it in the basement of the house). Requires a basement or underground room. The best option with new construction.

We create an internal system of ventilation ducts at home

In both cases, the ventilation ducts inside the house will be approximately the same. Let's start with them.

The primitive supply and exhaust ventilation system is represented by external and internal ventilation ducts connected into one network. Air outlets are located in the upper diagonally opposite corners of the rooms. In one - the inflow, in the other - the exhaust. In a one-story building, the main air ducts can be located in attic... In a two-storey building, the supply and exhaust air ducts of the first floor will run in ducts inscribed in interior decoration, second floor - in the attic. The location of the main air ducts should be determined for each house individually, taking into account the layout (location of walls and partitions).

Advice. Premises in which it is recommended supply and exhaust ventilation: living room, bedroom, nursery, kitchen, dining room, offices, pantry, lounges, gym. In bathrooms and toilets - only an exhaust. Not needed at all in corridors, vestibules, halls and loggias.

Rules for calculating the system of internal ventilation ducts:

1. Sewer pipe with a diameter of 250 mm for distributing supply and combined outlet channels. Estimated consumption - two house lengths + top floor height + 20%.
2. Sewer pipe (gray) with a diameter of 150 mm. Estimated consumption - three times the length of the house + 20%. For two-storey house with equal floor area + 50%.
3. Fasteners for the pipe (based on the material of the walls) at the rate of 1 pc. 70 cm.
4. Insulation (roll mineral wool) - 1 roll.
5. Foam, sealant, decorative grilles.
6. Knees, revisions, couplings (1 piece per 70 cm).

Attention! Do not use 90 ° elbows, this will obstruct the passage of air and create noise. Combine 45 ° elbows (following the example of a sewer).

If it is planned to arrange a pipe recuperator in a one-story building, the supply duct will come out of the ground into a heat-insulated box outside the building and enter the attic. In a two-story one, it is better to bring it into the building at the bottom of the first floor and install an internal vertical (distribution) channel, which will then be led into the attic space.

When installing a bunker option in the basement of a building, the vertical distribution channel will exit the bunker directly into the room. It is possible to mount it outside.

An example of calculating the consumption of materials for the device of internal channels at home

Take as an example cottage with an estimated ventilated area of ​​60 m 2, which will have approximately 100 m 2 of total area and approximate dimensions of 8x12 m:

1. Pipe 250 mm: 2 x 12 + 3 + 20% = 32 m.
2. Pipe 150 mm: 3 x 12 + 20% = 43 m.
3. Fasteners: 32 + 43 / 0.7 = 107 pcs.
4. Elbows, revisions, couplings - take for 1 piece per 3 m: 32 + 43/3 = 55/3 = 20 pcs.
5. Lattices: 8 pcs. (2 for each room).
6. Switches: 4 pcs.
7. Foam, sealant.

Tube heat exchanger

In order not to complicate the calculations with mathematical calculations, we will provide the data of already conducted tests in an averaged form, or rather, their results.

The basic principle that must be observed when creating a system of pipes is that at least one pipe of an underground channel must fall on one room. This will facilitate the operation of the fans by atmospheric pressure... Now it remains to place the required number of pipes in the underground part of the site. They can be installed individually or combined into a common channel (250 mm).

In this description, we propose to take into account not the maximum load, when all rooms are forcibly ventilated at the same time, but the average load, which will be supplied with regular periodic ventilation. different premises(as it happens in real life). This means that there is no need to output a separate channel for each room. It is enough to bring 150 mm air ducts from each room to one common 250 mm channel. The number of common channels is assumed to be one channel per 60 m 2.

We create a recuperation field

Diagram of the tube recuperator device: 1 - fan; 2 - channel in a trench ∅250 mm; 3 - rows of pipes ∅250 mm; 4 - recuperation field.

First, you need to choose the location of the pipes (recuperation field). Than more length laid pipes, the more efficient air cooling will be. It should be noted that after work, this area can be used for planting plants, landscape design or a playground. Never plant trees in the recovery field:

1. We excavate soil to the freezing depth plus 0.4 m.
2. We lay pipes 250 mm with a step of at least 700 mm along the axis.
3. We bring the air intakes to a height of 1 m. It is desirable that they are in a shaded, but well-ventilated place.
4. With the help of elbows and adapters, we combine them into a common channel of 250 mm, which is connected to the ventilation system of the house (see above).

Attention! In the underground part, use special soil sewer pipes with a thick wall. They do not need to be thermally insulated, but simply covered with soil, spilling water. Only concreting is allowed if necessary.

Calculation of the amount of work and material consumption:

1. For the recovery field, we take a 15x6 m area with an area of ​​90 m 2.
2. The volume of the foundation pit with a freezing depth of 0.8 m will be: V cat = (0.8 + 0.4) x 60 = 72 m 3.
3. Trench volume 40 cm wide (10 m from the house): V tr = 1.2 x 0.4 x 10 = 4.8 m 3.
4. Total volume of earthworks: V total = V cat + V tr = 72 + 4.8 = 77 m 3.
5. Sections of 15 m: N neg = a / 0.7 = 6 / 0.7 = 9 pcs., where a is the field width.
6. Total pipe length: L = N neg x 15 + 10 = 9 x 15 + 10 = 145 lm. m.
7. The consumption of elbows, couplings, adapters is accepted 2 pcs. x 15 m = 30 pcs.

Advice. The deeper the heat exchanger is laid, the more efficient its operation will be. More than one tier is allowed.

Bunker heat exchanger

If there are unoccupied people in the house basements, they can also be used to construct a hopper (air or heat exchange tank) for a stone heat exchanger. Its action is based on the energy content of the stone - it gradually picks up the ambient temperature and balances the flow of passing air. With absence free space in the basement, the bunker can be set up outside the house.

Bunker heat exchanger device diagram: 1 - fan; 2 - pipe Ø250 mm; 3 - protection; 4 - stone Ø200-450 mm; 5 - brick walls; 6 - cover

At a certain place, a pit is digging about 2x3x3 m in size.From the exit of the common channel of the ventilation system of the house to the pit of the future reservoir, a trench is made, a 250 mm pipe is laid into it to a depth of 140 cm, through which cooled air will be discharged from the bunker. Along the wall, to which the trench approached, a vertical groove is laid to the bottom for a pipe with a diameter of 250 mm. Then the bottom is laid out with bricks or concreted. The bottom of the air tank should be at least 1 meter deeper than the level of soil freezing.

Attention! After the installation of the bottom of the hopper, a 250 mm branch pipe should be laid.

The beginning of the branch pipe protrudes from the wall by 1/3 of the distance to the opposite wall and is lined with brick protection. A protective grill is installed on the inlet.

We fill the tank

It is better to lay the walls out of bricks or cast from concrete (no slag!), Since these materials conduct the temperature better than others. The cinder block will not work because of its thermal insulation properties. The walls and bottom must be thoroughly waterproofed (roofing felt) from the outside and plastered from the inside to prevent the penetration of organic matter or moisture. The height of the walls is up to the ground level minus 20 cm. An inlet is arranged at the top of any wall and air intake pipes are installed. To facilitate the operation of the fans, we recommend installing 3 pcs.

After the solution has hardened, the hopper must be filled with large pebble stones. Sizes from 200 to 450 mm in diameter. The stone must be clean of organic matter, washed.

The tank is covered with a "lid" made of solid planking on wooden beams, covered with waterproofing materials. Sod is laid on top. Then the branch pipe is connected to the ventilation system of the house (to the common ventilation duct) and backfilling is performed.

Calculation of the amount of work and consumption of materials:

1. With an air tank size of 2x3 m and a depth of 3 m, the volume of soil (earthworks and stone for filling) will be: V = 2x3x3 = 18 m 3 + V tr = 22.8 m 3.
2. Volume brickwork: V treasure = S walls + S bottom x 0.125 = ((2x3) x 2 + (3x3) x 2 + 2x3) x 0.065 = 36 x 0.065 = 2.34 m 3.
3. Total pipe length (10 m from the house): L = (10 + 3) + 10% = 15 m.
4. Number of knees - 6 pcs.

The cost of the stone for filling the tank may vary depending on the region of construction.

As can be seen from the calculations, the final cost of air conditioning for 1 m2 is different for both options. The main factor of choice is the level of occurrence groundwater... If it is high, less than 3 m, then it will not work to build a bunker heat exchanger. The pipe will fit even with a GWL of 1.5 meters.

Installing the fans

The system presented here provides for the synchronous operation of two duct fans- supply and exhaust - installed in each air outlet of the room. This makes it possible to quickly deliver cool fresh air to the room and remove heated air. For effective ventilation, a fan power of 100 W each is sufficient. When choosing a fan, pay attention to the noise level during its operation.

Estimated operating cost

If you ventilate each room three times a day for 20 minutes, then we get 1 hour of operation of 8 fans of 0.1 kW each. This is less than 1 kWh per day. A month - 30 kW. At a price of 5 rubles / kW, this will amount to 150 rubles / month.

The service life of recuperators and ventilation ducts at home is limited by the service life of the material. For underground elements - from 50 years, for internal - unlimited.

The system does not require maintenance (except for fans - every 5 years).

Perspectives

The described scheme can become the basis for a more complex air conditioning system. Additional elements can be gradually included in it - filters, heating and cooling tents, more powerful fans, automatic control units and others. The air mixture prepared underground has a stable temperature not only in summer, but also in winter, therefore it can be used for heating as well.

Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru

Here are some simple tips to help you improve your home climate by making summer days more pleasant without the unbearable heat.

The scorching heat can cause a deterioration in well-being, and there is often simply nowhere to hide from it. If there is no way to give up everything and go to the nearest body of water, and there is no air conditioner in the house or apartment, you can try to cool the premises using simple techniques that are available to everyone.

Tip one - use as little as possible electrical devices... Laptops, TVs, and computers get hot during operation and generate heat, increasing the temperature in an already hot room. Use summer period in order to get the maximum rest from technology, which is better to disconnect from the electrical network altogether.

Second tip - hide the rooms from the sun's rays. Blinds, roller shutters, Roman blinds, just thick fabric curtains - all means are good to hide from direct sunlight. Without curtains, you won't even be able to sleep longer in the morning, because in summer the sun rises very early and immediately begins to warm up the room.

It is better if the roller shutters are made of fabric that has a sun-reflecting surface. One of the easiest and cheapest options for shelter from the sun is to stick sunscreen foil on the glass. True, in the fall you will have to get rid of it, but all summer the rooms will have a pleasant cool twilight.

Third tip - if you have not purchased an air conditioner, you can use a regular fan. To enhance the effect, we recommend placing a bowl or other open container with ice water in front of the fan. The air will pass over the surface of the water and cool. And the draft itself in the summer heat is a very pleasant phenomenon.

Fourth tip - a canopy over the entrance. This is an option for residents of private houses. If the entrance to the house is on the sunny side, then a canopy is simply necessary, because without it the room will instantly warm up. You can equip a temporary, summer fabric shed if there is no more reliable canopy. A good option can be called a living green protection of the house, for example, a pergola entwined with grapes.

Fifth tip - in the summer heat it is better to avoid any synthetic fabrics. Let your summer bedding set be lightweight, cotton or linen. Such fabrics will be much more pleasant in the heat. And if you wet a sheet or bedspread before going to bed, it will be much easier to fall asleep until the fabric is dry.

Sixth tip - a rubber heating pad in summer can be a way of cooling. Fill it with cold water and put it in bed before bed to sleep comfortably. Such a rubber container can be replaced by ordinary plastic bottles with water, which can be frozen before use.

The seventh tip is a cool bath. We are sure that you yourself do not want to take hot baths in the heat. Moreover, during the heating of water, for example, a gas water heater or an electric boiler, the room will be additionally heated. If you take cold water into the bath, it will become a source of coolness, you can wash your face at any time. For residents of private houses in summer ideal option will become an outdoor shower.

Eighth tip - cook less. We are sure that the hostesses will especially like this advice. Avoid using in heat oven, standing at which will become a real torture. Summer fresh salads, light cold soups, okroshka - dishes that do not need to be cooked for a long time. In addition, in the heat, these options will be the ideal choice for a healthy and low-calorie lunch or dinner.

The ninth tip - more fresh air. In summer noon, it is better to keep the windows closed and tightly curtained so that the room heats up less. But in the morning and after sunset, all windows and doors should be thrown open to create a draft and cool the rooms.

The summer we have been waiting for so long can bring not only pleasant vacation experiences, but also inconveniences due to the heat. We hope that our simple tips will help you improve your home climate by making summer days more enjoyable without the unbearable heat. published

Not everyone can afford to buy an air conditioner, but this does not mean that in the hot season there will be no escape from the heat. This is why our conversation was started.

In this article, we will introduce you to all the intricacies of room cooling that you will not find in any other Internet source. The material offered to you is unique in every respect.

It would seem that it is impossible to cool a room without the participation of an air conditioner. We will convince you of the opposite with the help of ordinary life examples and short excursions in the school physics course.

Rescuing open windows

In the absence of an air conditioner, you can cool the living space using an open window if you did not close it at night. However, it is not enough just to open it in the morning.

Following the laws of physics, with which the teachers introduced you back to school: hot air it is always lighter than a cold one, so it rises up, and there will always be coolness below.

Therefore, after opening the window, put a small "desktop" fan on the windowsill and set the airflow inside the room to maximum speed.

Try to open your apartment windows between 5:00 am and 8:00 am. Naturally, the indicated time redistributions cannot be perceived as an axiom. Focus more on the indicator temperature regime outside the window.

Cold water

Open windows are not able to solve the problem of a hot room on their own. Therefore, an additional step will be a bath filled with cold water. Naturally, the door must remain open.

To improve heat transfer by circulating air, with care, the bathroom can also be installed floor fan and adjust the intensity of the blown air flow.

Collecting cold water in the bath important point is the descent of that part of it that remains in the pipes. After some time, "warm water" will drain and really cold water will go, which must be collected.

Plain office paper

If the windows of your apartment face the sunny side, then it is natural that their open, as, indeed, a bath with cold water, will not be able to help achieve the expected effect.

Therefore, an additional solution would be to attach A3 or A4 sheets of office paper to the window glass, from the side of the room. The choice will depend on the design of your window.

Such a forced measure will block the access of solar energy through the glass unit and will not allow infrared rays to heat the room.

When referring to a school physics course, it must be remembered that a double-glazed window plastic window, as, indeed, any transparent double glass, is a kind of lens that heats up the air in the room quite strongly. Therefore, using ordinary paper and stationery tape, the glass unit must be sealed with paper.

Icy breath

Not having air conditioning in the apartment, but having at their disposal:

• plastic bottle (volume - "maximum");
• fan;
• household refrigerator,

you can build a simple air conditioner.

To do this you need:

1. Dial in a bottle tap water, given the fact that water expands when it freezes.
2. Place a container of water in the freezer overnight.
3. Take this piece of ice out of the refrigerator in the morning.
4. Turn on the desktop fan at maximum speed.
5. Place the frozen water in the container opposite the air flow.

Nobody says that the effect will be "as cold as possible", but in terms of heat transfer, such a trick will do the trick and the result will be quite tangible.

Humidifier

In order to cool a room or apartment, use an ordinary ultrasonic humidifier air, but with one little trick. Take water for his reservoir not from plumbing system apartments, and pre-cooled.

Naturally, it does not need to be cooled in the freezer. After filling the humidifier with water from the refrigerator, turn it on at the required level and expect the effect during the first thirty minutes of use.

We deliberately put this step in our "rating" in the last place, since it has one significant flaw: gradually the water in the humidifier will heat up. Not only from exposure to high room temperature, but also from the hot elements of the household appliance themselves.

The vicissitudes of fate

1. In order for the room to be filled with real coolness, you need to understand that open windows help exclusively in the early morning time, when the sun has not yet had time to heat the air.
2. If the night was hot, then it is more rational to use a bathroom with cold water, ice opposite the fan and a humidifier with pre-cooled filler, but in no case open the windows in the apartment.
3. If a household air conditioner you can't afford it, you can make a homemade one. We will talk about this a little later.

Indirectly touching on the topic

There is always a fan in every home. It is he who will become a lifeline in the hot season, provided that you have followed all the above recommendations.

His work is based on all the same physics: the protruding droplets of sweat on the skin of a person evaporate under the influence of the air flow, which leads to a decrease in body temperature and a feeling of coolness.

However, the fan must drive cool air, and to do this, you must first cool the room.