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The stove from the gas cylinder will be more economical and more efficient than its equal in complexity of manufacturing from other materials at hand... The very shape of the gas cylinder will help. The quality of the stove is largely determined by its firebox. An ideal firebox in all respects is spherical. Considering that the firebox must have at least 2 openings - an inlet for loading fuel and supplying air, and an outlet for the exit of exhaust gases into the chimney, the optimal shape of the firebox turns out to be a not very long and narrow cylinder with rounded ends, and this is the cylinder. Its shape is chosen based on the need to keep more pressure with minimal metal consumption, but the result is the same.
Since the shape of the furnace is optimized on the most general grounds, then stoves from cylinders can be very different - from flaming combustion to sophisticated designs, from which even an experienced heating engineer, as they say, turns his eyes back. This article examines several furnaces, built on an increasing basis in relation to the complexity of manufacture; their purpose is also taken into account:
The need to minimize costs for Additional materials and the ability to make a furnace with your own hands without complicated tools and / or technological operations. Of course, a prerequisite is sufficient convenience and safety of use. Unfortunately, recommendations for legalizing homemade stoves cannot be given: fire rules are very strict for them. Here everyone needs to solve the issue on the spot, as anyone can. Or not to decide at all: building ovens yourself is nowhere and is not prohibited in any way, but possible consequences will fully fall on the author / owner.
Note: the requirement for maximum simplicity and low cost does not apply to the rocket furnace described at the end. However, this stove not only heats a large room on chips-twigs, but also allows you to get a real warm stove at home without building a brick oven. And the cost of materials and labor for it requires several times less.
Primarily: for the furnace you need an all-metal cylinder... Explosion-proof composite are unsuitable, they are not heat-resistant. A 5-liter household bottle (item 1 in the figure) is definitely not suitable for the main part of the stove: it is too small. The ratio of its surface to volume will give such its own heat loss that it will not be possible to completely burn any fuel. Making additional thermal insulation is not worth it. The complexity of work, material costs, dimensions and weight of the furnace will increase so much that all work becomes meaningless.
Note: the only possible application of a 5-liter cylinder is a fuel tank for a liquid fuel furnace. Two of these will be discussed below.
12 and 27 liter cylinders (items 2 and 3) allow you to make a stove just in case, which can be stored in the closet of a city apartment. From a 12-liter stove, you can take off a heat output of 2-3 kW, and from a 27-liter one - 5-7 kW.
The best blank for the furnace is the most common 50-liter propane cylinder with a diameter of 300 mm and a height of 850 mm (item 4). Its volume is already sufficient for efficient combustion of any fuel by any known method, and its weight and dimensions do not make it difficult to work. In addition, there are many such cylinders in everyday life that are still quite serviceable, but have exhausted their resource according to the technical specifications; they can be bought inexpensively. Most of the ovens described below are made from these cylinders.
Note: if there is a choice, use a cylinder with a valve, not a valve. The valve produces an excellent regulator of the furnace power by supplying air (air choke).
As for the common 40-liter cylinders for industrial gases (item 5) with a caliber of 240 mm, they are poorly suited for the furnace: although the walls of thick strong metal will ensure the durability of the furnace, the cylinders themselves are too narrow, heavy and cumbersome. A good powerful stove, up to 100 kW or more, could be made from a 12- or 18-inch professional cylinder, but they are rare, expensive, and such an empty, not every healthy man can not shoulder his shoulder.
From small 2-10 liter bladders, in principle, it would be possible to make camping stoves, but again - the metal is thick, durable, it is difficult to work with it, and the stove itself will come out too heavy. There are, however, in the population of small special balloons some exotic individuals, from which excellent ones are obtained; we will tell you about them later.
You probably guessed even earlier that the simplest home-made stove from a gas cylinder is an emergency reserve, 12 or 27 liter. You can put a 50-liter bottle on it, but such a stove will no longer fit in a city pantry. The balloon potbelly stove will not be able to regularly heat several generations: the relatively thin metal of the housing of the household balloon will burn out. But it is quite possible to heat a shed with it from time to time or hold out on it until it gets warm.
The design is extremely simple, see fig. From the purchased units, only a furnace door or a monoblock from a furnace / blower is needed. Here, the theoretically optimal shape of a plump kurgozny balloon works as much as possible: a balloon potbelly stove does not need a grate with an ash pan, internal partitions all sorts. One thing that is necessary, like any potbelly stove for good heat transfer, is a horizontal chimney elbow from metal pipe length from 2-2.5 m.
Note: chimney diameter of a 12-liter potbelly stove 60 mm, 27-liter 80 mm, 50-liter 100-120 mm.
Good grills are made from gas cylinders,. They also burn fuel, but these are no longer stoves, but culinary technological equipment, and quite a lot has been written about it. Therefore, we will no longer dwell on gas-cylinder cooking. However, those who are interested, as they say, without leaving the checkout, to find out how to make a barbecue from the cylinder themselves, can watch the video:
In all the following designs of furnaces from cylinders, pyrolysis is used to one degree or another - the decomposition of heavy organic compounds under the influence of high temperature into light, volatile and combustible. Pyrolysis allows you to burn everything that, in principle, can burn, completely - to carbon dioxide and water vapor. It is hardly possible to build a furnace with an efficiency of more than 70% without pyrolysis.
One of the main parameters of the pyrolysis process that must be taken into account when designing a furnace is the degree of its complexity. Simply put, this is the number of thermochemical reactions required to break the original complex and heavy molecules into those capable of burning to the end.
Pyrolysis of heavy flammable liquids (eg used engine oil) usually takes place in 2-3 stages. Wood fuel decomposes into easily combustible gases in a multistage manner, and for its complete pyrolysis it takes 5-6 times more time than in a furnace on liquid fuel.
Since the exhaust gases move from the combustion source into the chimney under the action of the draft, the pyrolysis ends at a certain distance from the furnace. For oil ovens, it is insignificant, about 10-15 cm, and in them pyrolysis can be combined in space with the afterburning of pyrolysis gases. This condition is also true for coal stoves; volatile components of coal are released and decompose easily.
For a full-fledged pyrolysis of wood fuel, the length of the gas-flame path is already about 1 m, and in its space, it is necessary to select, physically or implicitly, 3 zones (chambers): the actual furnace (gasifier), where fuel burns and primary pyrolysis gases are released, a secondary gasifier (reactor ) with the supply of secondary air (secondary), where the pyrolysis is completely completed, and the afterburner, also with the supply of the secondary, where light gases completely burn out. These conditions must be taken into account when designing a wood-burning stove.
The next one in terms of complexity, cost and labor intensity is from a balloon. This product is in great demand: you can heat a garage with such a stove for nothing, but there is no large-scale production, firefighters forbid it. Let us briefly recall the principle of its operation.
Oil burns quietly in the fuel tank, air is metered here by means of an air throttle. Here, the heat of its combustion is mainly used for evaporation. The vapors rise into a vertical gasification column, or reactor. The walls of the reactor are perforated; outside air flows freely through the holes. the pressure in the entire path of the furnace due to the draft of the chimney is below atmospheric.
The inflow of air sharply intensifies the combustion of oil vapors, the temperature rises and pyrolysis begins. The pyrolysis products also begin to burn, due to which the temperature rises even more; in the middle of the reactor, it can reach 1300 degrees. At this temperature, nitrogen oxides are formed in a noticeable amount. Oxidation of nitrogen is an endothermic reaction, it consumes a significant part of the fuel energy. Nevertheless, nitrogen oxidation is useful in this case: it protects the furnace from overheating and explosion; the rate of formation of nitrogen oxides increases sharply with increasing temperature, according to a power law.
In the upper part of the reactor, the pyrolysis gases have almost burned out and there is a large excess of air. For complete afterburning in the column, it would have to be made several meters high and deaf, without perforation, but then nitrogen oxides would slip through the peak of their temperature instability and carry away a noticeable fraction of the fuel energy into the pipe. To avoid this, the gases from the reactor are released into the afterburner or afterburner.
The afterburner is divided approximately in half by an incomplete partition. Pyrolysis gases burn out directly in front of it, maintaining a temperature that excludes the stabilization of nitrogen oxides. Behind the partition, all the oxygen in the air has already been used up, but the temperature here is still higher than 700 degrees. Now nitrogen oxides decompose with the release of energy back into nitrogen and oxygen, which goes to the afterburning of the remains of pyrolysis gases; the energy release of these 2 processes maintains an approximately constant temperature in the afterburner.
The outlet to the chimney from the afterburner is located far from the partition, but it is enough to carry it 15-20 cm away from it: thermochemical reactions in oil gases proceed quickly. Already completely burnt gases with a temperature of about 400 degrees leave the chimney, which ensures the efficiency of the furnace up to 80% and higher.
Usually, for furnaces on working out from cylinders, a propane 50-liter is used, sawing it in a ratio of 2: 1, one third goes to the tank, and 2/3 goes to the afterburner, pos. 1 in fig. Up to 30 kW of heat can be removed from such a furnace, but there are plenty of emergency situations with a difficult outcome from them.
However, the magazine "Za Rulem" has already published for a long time the design of a garage furnace for development with a capacity of 5-7 kW with a reservoir from a 5-liter cylinder. With such a small power, it was possible to combine the reactor with the afterburner into a single fully functional column:
Nitrogen oxides are still formed in this furnace, but in an insignificant amount, providing only automatic adjustment of the furnace mode. Operational power adjustment is provided by a rotary flap on the filler neck, which is also an air throttle.
This oven can be significantly improved if there is a 10 or 12 liter cylinder with a caliber of 150 mm and a height of 800/900 mm. In these, helium is most often sold for inflating balloons. The profitability of the spherical business reaches 400%, but most often it takes place on temporary promotions, and the shelf life of a balloon filled with helium is limited and small: helium is the second after hydrogen, the record for the diffusion rate. Therefore, perfectly serviceable helium cylinders are often sold cheaply.
Note: we do not recommend trying to do business on helium alone. All over the world, the flower-festive mafia has firmly laid its paws on him, which, they say, and "Cosa Nostra" bypasses.
The design of a "helium-propane" 2-cylinder furnace for development is shown in pos. 4. Thick walls of the cylinder distribute heat more evenly along its height, and the dome at the top and not wide, 60-80 mm, exit into the chimney retains gases more efficiently than a cone. Therefore, the perforation of the column and, accordingly, the air flow can be increased, having received a power of 10-12 kW. The maximum filling of 3.5 liters is enough for 3-4 hours of operation at full power.
At the same time, you can improve the fuel-air system. A standard cylinder valve is perfect for the throttle, it only needs to be built up from the inside with a thin-walled steel tube, pos. 4a. It can simply be screwed on, how much force is enough, on the part of the fitting protruding inward: the seating thread on it is tapered, so that it snaps tightly.
It is better to make the filling connection retractable sliding in the neck, pos. 4b. Through the extended fitting, the furnace is ignited and the fuel level is monitored. And in the retracted one, you can relatively safely add oil while the oven is running.
If the stove is constantly heated, then it is still advisable to remember about the sappers, for whom the most dangerous is not the first, but some N-th mine. It is possible to fully guarantee against an emergency with a stove by arranging the fuel supply from a separate feed tank or just a feeder, pos. 5. The height of the feeder should not exceed the maximum permissible level of fuel in the tank (for a 5-liter bottle it is about 2/3 of its height), and the feeder should be taken at least 0.5 m from the stove. So you can control the fuel level and refuel the stove as you like. In addition, the volume of the feeder can be any, only its height is limited, so that it is quite possible to adapt a tank for it with a refueling for a day or more.
In this case, this metaphor does not mean stoves from recumbent industrial balloons, but from ordinary 50-liter wood-fired stoves. In the mode of long burning, the wood is subjected to pyrolysis, which greatly increases the efficiency and duration of heat transfer from the furnaces. The fuel in them (from dry sawdust and weeds to fragments of antique furniture) burns in a thin layer from the surface, therefore "long" stoves are sometimes called surface burning stoves.
Pyrolysis can occur either in a physically limited separate volume with subsequent afterburning of pyrolysis gases in an afterburner (these are ovens with separate combustion), or pyrolysis gases immediately evaporate into a large, well-heated buffer chamber, where pyrolysis ends and pyrolysis gases burn out, these are combined combustion furnaces. To ensure high efficiency of both, it is highly desirable to heat the air entering the pyrolysis zone.
An example of a long-burning furnace with separate combustion is the well-known one. In it, pyrolysis is concentrated under the "pancake" yoke. A diagram of the bubafoni device is shown in Fig. on right; as the fuel burns, the pancake duct goes down. Much and detailed information has already been written about the principles of operation and the peculiarities of making bubafon, so we only note the following:
Bubafonya is a very economical stove and is well suited for heating garages and households. premises. Its design is simple and available for making at home. On the trail. rice. the main stages of the working process and dimensions are shown specifically for a balloon bubafoni with a capacity of up to 5-6 kW. It is only necessary to add that the gaps for air supply between the main (closest to the air duct) ends of the blades must be kept the same. When welding, for this, instead of a jig, it is convenient to use suitable scraps of metal - pieces of a bar, etc. The blades are first grabbed from the outside, and then, having removed the "conductors", they are boiled to the end.
Note: the power of the bubafoni can be adjusted within wide limits, up to 10 times, but only manually, because the air restrictor can only be installed at the upper end of the air duct, which is movable.
Even simpler in design and not inferior to bubafone in terms of parameters, the combined combustion furnace "Slobozhanka", the diagram in fig. on right. But making a slobozhanka from a balloon is hardly worth it, because its minimum allowable diameter is about 500 mm and a balloon slobozhanka will not show good efficiency. In addition, all Slobozhanka ovens have very serious disadvantages:
The device of the Slobozhanka furnace
Most other homemade "long" ovens are no better, but harder than bubafoni. But there is one, almost purely pyrolysis oven (which is a rarity on wood), which deserves attention, its drawing is shown in Fig. In addition, this oven is also a bunker, which for wood stoves also a rarity.
According to the principle of operation, the "stranger" is a simplified and truncated rocket furnace, about which see next. sect. The delay of the pyrolysis gases in the afterburner under the hob is achieved by a diaphragm in the chimney, in exactly the same way as the heat carrier from the heating main is distributed to consumers with washers. In the furnace business, such a constructive technique is rare, because any weakening of the draft degrades the quality of the stove, but in this case the creators turned evil for good.
How? Power limitation: this is an exclusively summer-summer cooking stove. It is only enough for cooking, although several times more can be squeezed out of a 50-liter bottle. But the "stranger" works on any combustible waste that can be pushed into the bunker; best of all - on sufficiently long chips, branches and dry stems, and it is much more economical, cheaper, simpler and lighter than the simplest brick slab. The foundation here, of course, is not needed, and the chimney is 1.5-2 m high enough. The furnace is ignited from the top, through the neck of the gasifier or the loading hatch, by means of flammable liquids.
The authors of the "stranger" cannot be denied knowledge of heat engineering, but they were too clever with metal: separate, and even removable for furnaces and a gasifier vault (bottom grate and partition in the original) are simply not needed here. The bottom can be the bottom of the 50-liter cylinder itself with the same 20-mm hole in the center, and the ash pan can be arranged in its skirt. The outlet of the gasifier is welded onto the cylinder dome, and the afterburner can be made from a cut of 300 mm pipe or sheet metal. In this case, it is quite possible to clean the stove through the fuel hopper and the gasifier outlet.
The crown of balloon-furnace creativity, without a doubt, is the rocket furnace, see fig. But not only and not so much because to do it according to all the rules requires considerable (albeit simple) labor, attention, ingenuity and accuracy. The main thing is that the rocket stove was deliberately created for a 50-liter, although most often it is made from a barrel. Not only the shape, but also the dimensions of a 50-liter propane cylinder are optimal for this furnace: if a rocket from a barrel heats up a horizontal section of a chimney in a stove bench (hog) up to 6 m long, then a balloon one, with a drum capacity four times smaller (see below about it) - up to 4 m. A bed of this length is unlikely to be needed by anyone, but a rocket hog can be made of a thin-walled metal corrugated board, laying it in a wave-like pattern in the bed. This, of course, will greatly increase both the efficiency of heating the room and the duration of heat transfer after heating, which can reach 12 hours.
The advantages of the rocket furnace are not limited to this:
There are only 2 flaws in the rocket furnace, and, as they say, not fatal. First, after kindling and, possibly, during the heating process, it is necessary to set the furnace mode by adjusting the air supply. If the stove hums a lot, this does not mean that it heats up better. On the contrary, in this mode, the gas-air path is quickly overgrown with carbon deposits; a properly heated stove whispers quietly.
Secondly, the furnace power is regulated only by the amount of fuel loading. Online power adjustment is generally impossible; only the oven mode is set by the air supply. On the go, you can not only add fuel to increase power, but also pull out individual smoldering chips with tongs and immediately extinguish, but this is fire hazardous.
Note: if the stove whispers it seems to be heating weakly, it doesn’t matter, wait for the heat to go into the battery. The stove will give it back later, cooling down after heating. If you need to warm up quickly, without thinking about fuel consumption, we open the air until it buzzes. It is undesirable to bring to a loud roar, the carbon deposits inside will strongly settle.
The device and principle of operation of the rocket furnace. Here we will recall the most essential.
The idea of a rocket furnace "on the fingers" is as follows: imagine 2 physically connected processes with an efficiency less than 100%; let's say 90% each. For the course of the 2nd, the products of the 1st are needed. If they are run together at once, then due to mutual interference caused by entropy, the final efficiency will not exceed 65%. And if you "scroll" first the 1st, save somewhere its results and then run the 2nd on them, then the maximum overall efficiency will be slightly more than 80%.
In the most general sense, this is a universal law. It is thanks to him market economy with all its cumbersome and gluttonous financial, administrative and power superstructures, it turns out to be more effective than a subsistence economy. In a rocket stove, this law is technically implemented by sequential switching on of 2 stoves, generating heat and accumulating and heating.
The generator stove consists of (see Fig.) A blower 1a with an air supply regulator (they put the furnace into operation), a fuel hopper 1b with a blank cover, a channel for supplying secondary air 1c that ensures complete combustion of fuel, a flame tube (fire conduit) 1g and internal or primary chimney - riser - 1d. The fire conduit cannot be made too short or long: it must, on the one hand, heat up the secondary air well, without which complete combustion of wood pyrolysis gases cannot be achieved. On the other hand, in a too long fire conduit, the gases themselves will cool and the pyrolysis will not reach the end. The entire generating stove is reliably wrapped in high-quality thermal insulation with as low its own heat capacity as possible. All that is required from the primary furnace is to completely burn the fuel and issue a stream of afterburned hot gases from the riser.
Note: from the point of view of efficiency, the optimal inner diameter of the riser is 70 mm. But if you achieve the maximum power of the furnace, then the riser pipe is needed already with a diameter of 100 mm; then its shell is needed not 150, but 200 mm. In this case, the efficiency decreases slightly. Further, when describing the technology of building a furnace, the dimensions are given for both cases.
The basis of the heating-accumulating part of the furnace is a high-capacity heat accumulator, but it is impossible to immediately release gases from the riser into it, their temperature is about 1000 degrees. There are good heat-resistant heat-storage materials, but they are very expensive, so the authors of the rocket furnace used adobe as a storage device. Its heat capacity is enormous, but it is not heat-resistant, so the secondary furnace must start with a high-potential heat into a medium-potential heat converter, with a temperature of up to 300 degrees. In addition, some of the primary heat must be delivered to the room immediately to compensate for the current heat loss.
All these functions are performed by the furnace drum, and a 50-liter cylinder will go to it. The gases from the riser get under the cover of the drum 2a with the hob 2b. The drum is metal thin-walled, it gives off heat well to the room. Having rolled over under the cover, the gases enter the annular lowering of the drum between its tube 2g and the metal shell of the riser insulation 2c. Under the drum 2d is also metal; the metal does not let flue gases into the insulation of the primary furnace.
The fact is that inexpensive and high quality insulating materials are porous. Let flue gases into them - their pores will be drawn in, they will quickly become clogged with smoke, and all the insulation, and with it the efficiency of the furnace, will go down the drain. Saman is also porous and also very readily spoiled by carbon deposits. Therefore, the first task in the construction of a rocket furnace is to ensure the complete tightness of the gas-flue gas duct.
In the drum, about 1/3 of its height from the top, the gases have cooled down enough to transfer their heat to the accumulator. From this height to the bottom, the lining (coating) of the entire furnace with adobe begins. In the drum, the flue gases give off, to the outside and to the accumulator, about half of the heat generated by the generator, but it is too early to pass them into the heat exchanger: from the drum through its outlet 2e, gases enter the secondary ash pan 3a with a sealed cleaning door 3b, and then into a long horizontal section of the chimney (hog) 4. From the hog, gases that have almost completely given off to the adobe bed are released into an ordinary external chimney.
Why do you need a secondary ash pan? The gases coming out of the drum are not very hot and are already chemically neutral, because burned out to the end. But they still contain a small amount of solid suspension; mainly - microparticles of mineral components of wood. And the hog, as mentioned above, is made of thin metal corrugated metal and is also laid with twists, and this whole pipe is tightly walled up, so it is impossible to clean the hog. Let dirty gases into it - the gap will soon be overgrown with soot and the stove bench will have to be broken. And in the secondary ash pan, the suspension settles. Once or twice a year it will have to be scooped out, but the stove will now serve for many years.
So now we know enough to start building a rocket furnace. What will we do.
First, we need to stock up on 5 types of lining. However, their components are either inexpensive, or lie underfoot at all, and it is not difficult to prepare the mixture yourself:
Some explanations. It is better to introduce grass straw into adobe (meadow cereal hay), with it, the strength, which we do not really need, will be lower, but the heat capacity is also higher. As for the recipes for making adobe - choose any suitable one, for a rocket furnace this is not essential. You can do it as in the video below, only we don't need to build a complete house.
Mixture 5b needs crushed stone (not sand!) And only SL. Other chamotte (ШМ, ШВ, etc.) are good heat accumulators themselves, it is not for nothing that they make furnace furnaces. But in this case, a large heat capacity will only be harmful. It is advisable to set more rubble SHL, if only the clay would stick it together.
The purpose of the 5c mixture is to extend the life of the oven. All metal structures in it are steel with a wall thickness of up to 3 mm, so it is necessary that the rocket "flies" as it should. But in the flame tract, thin metal will quickly burn out. However, by that time, the 5c coating will have passed the firing, and over time, the areas steel pipes spontaneously replaced with ceramic. True, then the stove will have to be cleaned carefully (the riser, at least slowly, but nevertheless becomes overgrown with carbon deposits), after all, it is fragile.
The composition of 5g contains a rather large admixture of alumina. In construction sand, it is undesirable, so they get rid of it. But alumina is just right for the lining of the riser: the heat capacity of the mixture is minimal, and, when sintered, it will also gain some strength. And the raw materials are given for free.
Note: The riser can also be lined with 5b, but, first of all, it costs money. Secondly, the work will take a very long time - it will have to be lined in layers, with the previous layer completely dry, otherwise the coating in the shell will dry for an unreasonably long time and inside it will surely crack.
First you need to make a bed for the stove, see fig. - durable wooden trestle bed of the required configuration. Its frame is made of intersecting quarter-cut logs (100x100 mm timber) with a mesh of at least 600x900 mm under the stove and at least 600x1200 mm under the actual stove bench. The oblong cells of the frame are oriented along the bench. The curved edges of the frame are brought to the contour with scraps of timber and boards.
Note: it is not necessary to raise the bed higher, taking into account the power of the lining of the couch, it will be so convenient.
The frame is covered with 40 mm grooved planks. Decking board joints should be oriented perpendicular to the long sides of the frame cells. The ends of the timber and boards protruding beyond the desired contour of the bed are sawed off in shape at once, but its outer outline is still free, it will be sheathed with plasterboard, etc. at the end of the construction of the furnace.
Before assembly, the parts are first impregnated with a biocide, and the entire structure is impregnated twice with a water-polymer emulsion. The frame details are fastened along the crosshairs with diagonal pairs of confirmations 6x90 mm, and the flooring boards are attached to the frame with longitudinal pairs of confirmations 6x60 mm, a pair in the board for each longitudinal log.
Then, at the place of the permanent installation of the furnace, 4 mm mineral cardboard is laid on the floor with some margin for trimming along the contour, and the place above which the furnace itself will be is additionally covered with a sheet of roofing iron; it must be cut to shape in advance, taking into account the fact that the removal in front of the furnace must be at least 100 mm, for a rocket this is enough.
The bed is now being moved into place. They immediately arrange an exit into the external chimney, somewhere at the rear edge of the bed. Its lower edge should be 70-90 mm above level A of the furnace lining (see the figure with the main scheme), i.e. 120-140 mm from the level of the bedding.
On the bed, a solid formwork of height A is made along the entire contour, according to the basic scheme of the furnace (40-50 mm), with an even upper edge. If the bed is adjacent to the wall, the formwork is brought to the walls, and the level of its top is beaten off along them with a cord. Then the formwork is poured with adobe and its surface is smoothed with a polish - an even smooth board with a rounded corner. If the formwork is incomplete and it is inconvenient to lead the far end of the veneer along the mark, you can still lean beacons from plywood strips against the walls; they are removed when the adobe dries up, and the cracks are doused.
While level A dries, let's make a drum from a cylinder, see fig. First, cut off its top so that a hole with a diameter of 200-220 mm is obtained (do not forget to bleed off the remaining gas!), It is closed with a steel round 3-4 mm thick, this will be hob... Then a cut is made below the upper welding seam of the cylinder by 40-50 mm, this is almost a cover.
A thin sheet metal skirt is welded to the lid. Its side seam is also needed to be welded; the skirt will greatly lead away from the seam connection. Cook with a direct current of 60 A with a 2 mm electrode. I must say that keeping the arc in this mode is difficult, you need to be a fairly experienced welder. After mounting the skirt, holes are drilled in it for bolts M4-M5, 3-6 holes. evenly around the circumference, 20-25 mm from the bottom edge.
The third cut of the balloon is below the lower seam, where the tube begins to turn into a rounded bottom. There is no need to remove the remains of the cylinder skirt, so it will only hold on more tightly in the stove. Now at the bottom of the tube we make a cutout of its outlet in the form of a horizontally elongated rectangle. Its height is 70 mm and its width depends on the selected riser pipe, see the sidebar at the top right of the main diagram.
The next operation is the laying of the sealing gasket. She needs a braided asbestos cord, a loose shaggy twine is not good. The cord is glued with superglue or, better, "Moment". Then the glue, of course, will burn out, but the gasket will also stick to the remnants, especially since the cover will have to be removed once a year, not every year.
Having laid the gasket, immediately, as soon as the glue has set, we put on the lid and put a weight of 2-3 kg on it. Under load, mark the holes in the tube at the place. After removing the cover, we drill and cut the threads. Now we insert the tube into the inverted lid and measure the depth of the drum, this is necessary to clarify the height of the riser pipe. We separate the lid with the tube so that the gasket is not saturated with glue through and through and the cord does not lose its elasticity, stage 2 is over.
Level A will dry for a week or two, and at this time we will take care of the furnace part of the stove. Parts 1a, 1b and 1d from a professional pipe 150x150 mm; riser pipe 1d round. When marking workpieces, it is necessary to observe the distance indicated in the main diagram from the rear, when viewed from the side of the blower, the edge of the hopper to the front edge of the drum. Within the specified limits, it is arbitrary, based on the location of the furnace and its design. The blowing forward is also arbitrary, but, of course, within reasonable limits. It is also not necessary to push the blower under the bunker, the valve will be hot. The best option- the edge of the blower is flush with the front edge of the hopper, as in the diagram.
After cutting out the holes for the hopper and the riser pipe, the first thing to do is weld the partition of the secondary air channel 1b, at a height of 30 mm from the bottom of the furnace. A solid seam is not needed, 2 clamps are enough through the not yet welded rear end of the firebox, 2-4 through the hole for the bunker and 2 through the blower. Material - sheet steel 1.5-2.5 mm.
Note: the hopper tilt angle can be within 45-90 degrees from the horizontal. But when tilted at 45 degrees, rough chips can get stuck, and if the bunker is vertical, then when refueling the fuel, the hand is dangerously close to the hot drum. Therefore, a slope of 60 degrees is selected.
The trailing edge of the air baffle should be flush with the leading edge of the riser tube hole. Its front edge should protrude outward by 20-25 mm. This shelf is needed so as not to litter when cleaning the oven: this design does not allow the use of a grate with a retractable ash pan, and the ash will have to be scrapped into the tray; its edge is slipped under the shelf. However, the rocket furnace gives nothing at all to ash.
It is better to do the blower valve with a vertical stroke in the grooves with flat springs, the swing door will not provide the proper smoothness of the furnace mode adjustment, and it is more difficult to make a throttle with a butterfly valve. The hopper cover is folded from galvanized. Complete tightness is not needed here, as long as it fits tightly.
When the furnace metal structure is ready (do not forget to weld the riser pipe and weld the rear of the flame pipe!), It is lined with a 5c composition with a layer of 10-12 mm, as shown in the diagram. Continuous coating is given only on the bottom. The top and sides of the blower from its front edge to the bunker are left free. After wrapping, put on drying.
Dried by putting it on the pole with the blower part. At first, they are regularly inspected: if the coating slips, it is removed and a new portion of clay is made fatter and with less water. Do not rely on chance, this is a responsible operation!
The furnace part will dry out soon (2-3 days), and during this time it is quite possible to have time to make the formwork for insulation and put its bottom layer, because level A the adobe is dry enough to keep it light. The design of the formwork is clear from fig. The meaning of what is marked in red will become clear later. Formwork is made from boards or plywood with a thickness of 20-25 mm. It is not necessary to firmly fasten the parts, because the formwork will then have to be disassembled. Enough brackets made of thin wire on the outside in the corners; you can just cover it with scotch tape.
The formwork is put in place with the outer edge of the front plank flush with the edge of the bed and exactly along the axis of the future furnace. You need to put it carefully, with measurements, otherwise the parts of the stove will not converge later. You can fix it against accidental displacement with thin pointed pins, sticking them from the outside into adobe. The beacons along which the bottom layer of insulation will be aligned are made of any material, but their height must be exactly equal to that of the front formwork strip.
The formwork is filled with a mixture of 5b to level B. The pouring surface is leveled with a polisher along the beacons and the front bar.
While the insulating cushion dries up and the furnace part dries up, we make a shell of the riser and under the drum. With the shell, everything is simple: either a piece of pipe, or we bend it from a thin (1-2 mm) sheet. Both, of course, are made of steel. If the shell is made of sheet, the seam may be folded; a perfect circle is not required here.
Note: no need to make a shell below the riser pipe and then round the top of the riser with clay (see below). The stove works better if the gases roll into a depression with a kink.
Under the drum, as seen in the diagram, is inclined. This is necessary for better swirling of the flow in the secondary ash pan, see below. But if you thought: "Well, now cut out an ellipse in an ellipse!", Then in vain. When tilted at 10 degrees, the major axis of the ellipse is as much as 304.5 mm, but we need a smaller one, 5-7 degrees.
That is, the outer diameter of the hearth blank (steel sheet 2-3 mm) is made 4 mm less than the inner diameter of the drum, and the diameter of the cutout for the shell is 3 mm larger than its outer diameter, and will fit like a native. The slots along the outer and inner contours (marked with green circles in the diagram) are smeared after installing the hearth with 5d clay, bringing the sausages into the fillets with just a finger.
We check if the level 5B is completely dry. This can be done by temporarily removing the front formwork strip. If not, we smoke (sorry, we struggle with nicotine. We drink juice.) For a day or two.
If it is dry, we put the furnace part in the formwork, its plaster is probably already dry. It should also be placed exactly along the axis of the furnace, vertical and horizontal, with measurements: the drum and shell should ultimately be concentric plus or minus 2 mm, and the top of the secondary ash pan (see below) should fit tightly under the upper edge of the drum outlet. We set the front edge of the blower flush with the outer edge of the formwork and, accordingly, the bed. At the same time, it will protrude from the insulation to the thickness of the formwork board, this is just enough to grease it with adobe on the outside: the applied insulation is effective, but also sensitive to air humidity.
We fix the exposed furnace part with pegs, as well as the formwork. Let them remain in a mass of isolation, that's okay. Now we put additional front shields and fill the formwork to the top with a mixture of 5b, we went to the level D of the lining. It is no longer necessary to level it completely, so as not to hook the hopper that accidentally protrudes from the solution. It is enough to iron it with a polisher, leaning on the edges of the formwork, in the area where the drum is located, marked in pale gray on the formwork diagram. But here you need to align to smoothness.
We dry level G. This is also a responsible operation, you cannot rely on the microclimate of the room and ordinary drying by natural evaporation outside, the oven will come out poor and short-lived. It is necessary to create more or less stable conditions inside the drying mass.
This is done with an ordinary 40-60 W incandescent light bulb. It (turned on, of course) is pushed into the firebox so that the flask is under the riser pipe. It is only necessary to provide for some kind of mini-tragus for the lamp holder so that the bulb does not touch the metal, otherwise the glass may burst. The top of level G will dry out enough to withstand further operations while we are doing the secondary ash pan, see next.
Note: the light will have to burn continuously for a total of about 30 days, taking into account the further drying stages. During this time, a 60-watt one will eat 24x30x0.06 = 43.2 kW / hour of electricity, and a 40-watt one will consume 28.8 kW / hour, which will cost 129 rubles, respectively. 60 kopecks and 86 rubles. 40 kopecks. Whether such an expense is prohibitive is up to you. However, from either side, it is better to take a 40-watt one. Drying will take longer, but it will come out better and less sensitive to the quality of raw materials.
We make a secondary ash pan, or for short, just an ash pan, because there is no primary in this furnace. Here it looks like the same knot in American prototypes. rocket furnaces, but differs fundamentally from them.
For Americans, an almost laminar flow of gases enters the ash pan through the wide outlet of the drum, and here it swirls for deeper cleaning, see the next. stage installation diagram of the ash pan. Turbulence is caused by the rotation of the Earth; more precisely, the Coriolis force caused by it, the one that swirls the water flowing from the bathtub.
Note: military-historical curiosities. At the end of World War II, the Nazis developed the V-3 for shelling London, an ultra-long-range multi-chamber cannon with a gradual acceleration of the projectile. They pierced the adits in the rock, assembled the entire system. And then it turned out that the Germans, famous for their thoroughness ... forgot to take into account the rotation of the Earth! All the shells would have passed by. So the V-3 never fired, causing only panic in the Western intelligence services and a wave of myths that has come down to our days. Later, Saddam Hussein rushed with the same idea. He was going to shoot from his desert in Berlin, Paris and the same London. His experts have already calculated everything accurately and conducted successful experiments on small models. But, again, after all, it turned out that everyone modern technologies it is not possible to create precision-precision gun barrels 200-300 m long. In general, a fool loves work. Even if the fool is smart and knows a lot.
The ash pan drawings are shown in Fig. Dimension L is measured from point A (marked in red on the formwork diagram) along the perpendicular (red arrow in the same place) to the edge of the bed. Dimension H is the sum of the heights of the formwork measured in place and the exit window already cut in the drum (70 mm, if cut exactly). The slope of the top of the ash pan back is arbitrary within reasonable limits, if only then it would not kick out from under the coating of the drum with adobe.
The buried ash pan is made of a thin steel sheet or galvanized 0.6-1.2 mm. The front panel (face) is made of steel sheet 4-6 mm, because it can be acted upon from the outside and has M5 threaded holes for fastening the cover. The cutout for the chimney hog - along the outer diameter of the available metal corrugated board; 150-180 mm is suitable for this furnace. Its location is arbitrary, you only need to observe the dimensions A, B and C on the ash pan drawing. All parts except the hog are connected by continuous welding in the same mode as for the drum cover skirt. See below for hog attachment.
The cover of the cleaning hole with a size of 180x180 mm is also made of steel with a thickness of 4-6 mm. Mineral cardboard sealing gasket underneath. Mounting bolts - from M5x8 to M5x15 with hex heads. Bolts with any slots should not be used: the ash pan from the inside is overgrown with a thin layer of dense soot. The thickness of its layer will soon stabilize, but the bolts to remove the cover have to be unscrewed with a box socket wrench with a knob.
Note: it is undesirable to use a hinged door with a latch - it will not ensure tightness forever forever. You won't notice this right away, but the stove's appetite will increase and inside it will begin to grow overgrown with smoke. And you have to open the ash pan for cleaning only once a year, if the stove is heated with room-dry wood.
We must assume that while we were fiddling with the ash pan, level G had already dried up. You can check it by temporarily removing the wall of the formwork, as well as level B. If ready, mount the drum and ash pan.
We put in place the drum tube without a lid. We monitor the concentricity of it and the riser pipe, and also that the exit window is in the right place, see the sidebar at the top right in the overall furnace diagram and the diagram in Fig.
Put a little mixture 5b inside the drum and use a spatula to form a wedge from it with a slope of 5-7 degrees, converging to the exit window. Now we put it in place under, press it to the solution with a stick. We select the mortar from the cutout for the shell, otherwise you cannot put the shell, the mortar is on the rubble. Next, we install, slightly twisting, the shell. We coat the gaps along the outer and inner contours with clay 5d, as described earlier.
There is no need to wait for the insulation under the hearth to dry out; we immediately lined the riser. Fill the shell layer by layer, in only 5-7 layers, with a composition of 5g (self-dug sand or skinny sandy loam). We tamp each layer with a rolling pin with a flat end and spray it with a spray bottle until a crust forms. Not reaching 5-6 cm to the top, we form a cork from clay 5d. When dry, between it, the pipe and the shell, thin cracks are formed, but it's okay: when the furnace is fired, they will soon become overgrown with carbon deposits of the density and strength of concrete.
Immediately after mounting the drum, install the ash pan; we will close the clean hole with a lid later. Its installation is simple: on the lower and large side surfaces we apply a layer of 5d clay with a thickness of 2-3 mm. Insert the ash pan into place, press and press down. Then the contour of the outlet window of the drum (it is the inlet of the ash pan) is coated on the outside with the same clay 5d. We smear the sausages squeezed out inside with a finger into the fillets. Do not overlook: the edge of the hearth protrudes into the ash pan as a narrow segment shelf, under which you also need to form a fillet. In general, the transition from the drum to the ash pan must be sealed both inside and outside (green oval in the general diagram of the furnace).
If the level G of the insulation has not yet completely dried, we wait until it dries. To speed it up, the formwork can already be removed. If so, we also remove the formwork (drying continues, the light in the firebox is still shining!) And apply insulation with a solution of 5B to level B. Apply it without formwork, by hand. Manually, without special accuracy, we form a semicircular vault at level B.
Without waiting for level B to dry, we make a formwork along the bed contour, as in the formation of level A, but already at level G. Now we specify its value according to the measurement data: above the upper edge of the hole for the hog in the ash pan should be at least 80 mm. It is also undesirable to do more than 120 mm, the heat transfer of the furnace after heating will be sluggish. For brevity, the new level Г will be called Г1.
We fill the new formwork with adobe up to the lower edge of the hog hole in the ash pan, on one side. On the other - to the lower edge of the exit to the external chimney. Roughly, with our hands, we level, but you need to make sure that there are no dips, and, accordingly, U-shaped sections of the hog. If you read carefully at first, you will understand that we will be able to lift the hog from the ash pan to the chimney by 10-30 mm. It is necessary for uniform heating of the bed, but the hog sections sloping downward are undesirable in any case.
We stretch the prepared corrugation to its full length. We insert one end of it into the ash pan by 15-20 mm and flare it from the inside with a flat screwdriver through the cleaning door. We coat the outer contour of the hog inlet into the ash pan with clay 5d, as already described.
Further, the beginning of the hog, counting from the ash pan, is stuck around 15-25 cm with adobe, it will keep the corrugation from pulling out during the next operations. Now we put the hog in a bed with bends, but not coming closer than 100 mm to any edge. While laying, we lightly press down, slightly pressing into the adobe. Having laid it, we introduce the far end of the corrugation into the opening of the outlet into the chimney and along the contour, again, coat it with clay 5d.
Manually stick the hog with adobe so that there are no gaps and niches under the bottom of the corrugation. Then we fill the formwork with adobe, smooth its surface with a polish. If the adobe is thick and heavy from oily clay, you can immediately form the rounding of the upper corners, see the sidebar at the bottom right in the main diagram. It is convenient to do this with a strip of galvanized steel, bent with a trough to a quarter of a circle. If the adobe is light, it will be necessary to dust it with a cutter or around the stone during the final finishing.
We put in place, already constantly, the covers of the ash pan and drum. The lamp in the firebox is on, dries! Attach the drum cover with cone-headed screws: when tightened tightly, they tightly squeeze the gasket between the cover and the tube.
We form the adobe coating of the drum, as already mentioned: 1/3 of its top remains free, and counting down from half of its height, the adobe layer should not be thinner than 100 mm. For the rest - as God puts it on your soul, here the rocket stove will tolerate any design.
At the end of drying (this is about 2 weeks), remove the formwork and round off, if necessary, the remaining corners. The last operations before kindling - paint the drum with heat-resistant enamel at 450 degrees (750-degree is much more expensive), and cover the stove bench with acrylic varnish in 2 layers; 2nd after complete drying 1st.
The varnishing will not interfere with the breathing of the stove, the breath will go through the flooring of the bed. But, firstly, the varnish will prevent the adobe from dusting. Secondly, it will protect it from accidental moisture ingress. Thirdly, it will give the stove a noble look of glazed clay.
In a dry oven, we put in the grooves, without sliding, the blower valve (of course, there are no light bulbs there anymore), close the bunker lid and heat it with paper, straw, shavings, etc., all the time supplying fuel through the blower. When the bed gets a little warmer to the touch, add more light fuel, and load the regular fuel into the bunker. After waiting for a fairly strong hum of the stove, we cover the blower "to a whisper." That's it, the rocket oven with a stove bench is ready! Now - let's start! I mean, in the bed.
There is a direction in balloon-furnace creativity that is still being developed only by smokers, and then somehow: the construction of ovens from 2 or more cylinders. And from the point of view of heat engineering, his prospects are quite serious.
According to the number of helmet attachment points, the old on-line diving equipment was divided into 2 classes: three-bolt with a soft spacesuit for working at depths of up to 60 m and heavy rigid 12-bolt deep-water. The profession of a shallow diver had a completely official name - a three-bolt diver. In this regard, it is interesting, what hidden meaning would the trolls and goblins of the Runet have discerned in the title, well, let's say: "Society of stove-makers, multi-balloonists"?
Potbelly stove is a small home-made metal stove that became widespread in the first half of the 20th century. Later, with the advent of district heating, its popularity declined. The second wave of its mass use fell on the years of the Great Patriotic War, and the third - in the 90s of the same century, for heating summer cottages. Today potbelly stoves are more often used in garages or utility rooms. In their pure form, without alterations, they are uneconomical: they "eat" fuel, like the bourgeoisie, and if you stop "feeding" them, they quickly cool down. The easiest option to manufacture is a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder. The body is already ready, you just need to cut out the holes for laying the fuel and ash pan, and attach doors to them, weld the legs and chimney(diameter 150 mm and not less).
Potbelly stove from a vertically placed gas cylinder: simple design, low costs, quick warm-up
The cylinder in such a stove can be placed vertically or horizontally. It heats up quickly, but it also cools down immediately after the fuel has stopped burning. Nevertheless, in order to quickly remove a garage or cottage from freezing temperatures or heat it in autumn / spring bad weather - an excellent option.
It is clear that a gas cylinder will be used for the body. But they come in different sizes. The smallest 5 liters should not be used for the manufacture of furnaces: the volumes are too small and it will not be able to heat anything. There are also cylinders for 12 and 27 liters. They will make a low-power unit for a very small room: you cannot get more than 3 and 7 Kilowatts of heat from them. In principle, this can be a hiking option, but the weight will turn out to be solid.
Homemade stove from a gas cylinder placed horizontally
The best option for a stationary potbelly stove in a garage or a summer cottage is a 50 liter gas cylinder. Height 850 mm, diameter 300 mm. The volume and wall thickness are large enough to burn any fuel. At the same time, it is not very heavy, you can work with it alone. A potbelly stove from a propane 50l cylinder is the best option.
Industrial 40-liter gas tanks have about the same volume, the diameter is less - 250 mm, the height is larger, and the walls are thicker. A stove from a freon cylinder, with the same power that can be obtained from it, will be more difficult to make: the mass is large, and it is long. By shortening the height to about 700 mm, you can make a small thick-walled potbelly stove, which will warm up a little longer, but it will also “keep” the heat a little better.
How to safely disassemble a gas cylinder: see safety precautions in this video.
Doors for a potbelly stove can be bought cast. You will need a small height for the blower and a larger size for fuel filling. There are ready-made blocks - a flow door with a blower in one design. In this case, a welded-to-size frame from the corners is welded into a cut-to-size hole, and the casting is bolted to it. To prevent blowing out of the slots, a small side is welded along the perimeter of the cutout under the door - a 1-2 cm strip of metal.
How to attach a cast-iron stove door to a gas cylinder
You can not buy the doors, but use a cut out piece of the balloon wall. Then you will need some kind of hinges or replacement parts. With hinges it is clear: mark the places, weld. There is such an interesting version of homemade loops: several links of a thick chain.
Door hinges can be made from several links of a steel chain
You will need to weld another latch to such a door.
In the very simple option no grates are provided. If the balloon is small, or stands horizontally, then it is problematic to select the part inside. In this case, the design of a potbelly stove from a cylinder is quite simple: the body, put on legs, one door, a pipe for connecting a chimney is welded in the upper part. Everything. The whole stove.
The internal structure of a potbelly stove from a horizontally located cylinder is quite simple: only a door for filling fuel / unloading burnt coals and an outlet for a chimney
In the photo above, examples of such simple ovens... To improve heat transfer, metal strips are welded to the body from the outside to improve heat transfer. In the upper part, in addition to the smoke pipe, there is another outlet - a lid is installed on it, and this outlet is used as a stove for cooking, heating tea.
If you still want to make grates in a potbelly stove from a horizontally installed cylinder, you will have to weld the ash collection pan from below. Below there is a drawing and a photo of a practical implementation.
Drawing of a potbelly stove from a horizontally located gas cylinder with an ash pan welded from below
Ready-made stove from a cylinder with an ash box. A drawer is placed on this shelf, welded to size. Pulling out / pushing in it regulates the oxygen supply and the power of burning firewood
In vertical versions, potbelly stoves from a cylinder are most often installed. In this case, it is easier to allocate a place. Usually, rods of thick reinforcement are welded inside: a cast-iron grate suitable size hard to find. But this option is bad in that the fittings quickly burn out, and repairs are difficult: remove the old fittings, weld on a new one. You can weld pieces of a thick corner or reinforcement inside (as in the photo), separately weld the grates from the reinforcement and lay them on the corners.
Option for installing grates in a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder
This video tells about how to make a stove from a gas cylinder with your own hands. A very interesting version of the grate: pieces of reinforcement are welded onto a square frame. In general, a noteworthy performance.
The biggest problem of bourgeois women: inefficient use of heat. Most of it literally flies into the chimney: with flue gases. this disadvantage is effectively combated in overhead combustion furnaces with afterburning of flue gases similar to the Bubafonya furnace (also, by the way, it can be made from a gas cylinder), and Slobozhanka.
Another way is to make the chimney longer, thereby increasing the amount of heat that will remain in the room. When designing such a broken chimney, it is better to avoid horizontal sections, and even more so sections with a negative slope.
This gas cylinder stove runs on wood. Increased heat transfer by making a long, broken chimney
Another option to use the heat of flue gases is to weld a vertical cylinder-smoke branch pipe to a horizontally located cylinder-body. At the expense of larger area heat transfer will be higher. You just need to create a good draft so that the smoke does not go into the room.
Such a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder will warm up the room faster
You can do it as they do in sauna stoves: put a grid around a metal pipe, into which stones are poured. They will take heat from the pipe, and then give it to the room. But. First, until the stones are heated, the air will warm up slowly. Secondly, not all stones are suitable, but only round ones that are along the rivers. Moreover, they are uniformly colored without inclusions. Others must not fall asleep: they can explode from high temperatures no worse than a fragmentation shell, or emit radon, which is very harmful in significant concentrations.
The solution can be seen at the sauna stoves: build a grid for stones on the pipe
But this solution has its advantages: firstly, the pipe will not burn. The stones give off an even heat. Secondly, after the stove goes out, they will maintain the temperature in the room.
It is often necessary to quickly heat the room. To do this, you can use a conventional fan that will blow the body and / or tube of the furnace. But the same idea can be done with a stationary design: welded through pipes into the potbelly cylinder in the upper part. On the one hand, attach a fan to them (heat-resistant, better - with several speeds so that it is possible to regulate the temperature).
Pipes are welded into the upper part of the cylinder, which pass through. On one side, a fan is attached to them, which drives air through them, quickly warming up the room
Another option that allows you to achieve active air movement along the walls of the case and not use a fan: make a casing around the case at a distance of 2-3 cm, but not solid, but with holes at the bottom and top. This is the principle behind the Buleryan ovens or metal ovens for a sauna.
One of the variants of such a casing around a horizontally located cylinder can be seen in the photo below. Cold air near the floor is sucked in through the gaps at the bottom. Passing along the red-hot body, it heats up and comes out from above.
This stove lies on its side: the casing is not solid, there are decent gaps at the bottom and top
The principle is not new, but from this it is no less effective. What a finished stove looks like with such a casing, see the photo below.
Potbelly stove with improved convection around the body for quick room heating
Here is another casing implemented around a potbelly stove from a horizontally located cylinder. Pay attention to the non-standard door fastening.
This shiny sheet improves space heating
A homemade boiler from a gas cylinder for water heating can be made according to the same principle: weld a water jacket around the cylinder, and connect it to radiators. Just do not forget that the system must have an expansion tank with a volume of 10% of the total displacement.
Now you know how to make a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder and how to improve it. Watch another video about an interesting version of a combined stove for a summer residence or garage made of bricks and a gas cylinder.
It is not always advisable to use an autonomous heating system, sometimes occasional heating of the room is required. In this case, you can use electric heaters or potbelly stoves.
The second option is more economical, especially since it can be made at home from improvised material. The lightest in execution is a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder.
Due to the fact that very thick metal is used for the manufacture of cylinders, the stove will last long enough. In addition, the design of the furnace is very simple, which will allow anyone with a welding machine and a little experience in this matter to make it on their own.
The principle of operation of this wood-burning stove is quite simple. All that is required is to put firewood on the grate and light it.
This will allow the metal cylinder to warm up. One of the advantages of this design is considered to be quick warming up. Although after the wood in the stove burns out, the surface also cools quickly.
The cylinder will be required for the manufacture of the case, but how to understand which one is needed if the sizes of the gas cylinder are different. The smallest, the volume of which is 5 liters, is not recommended for these purposes.
From cylinders of 12 and 27 liters, you get a stove with low power, which is suitable for heating a small room. The best option a cylinder of 50 liters is considered. Its height is 850 mm, diameter is 300 mm.
Thanks to the thick walls, any material can be used as fuel. In addition, its weight is not very large, so a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder is easily made by one person.
In addition, there are 40-liter industrial gas tanks that have the same volume, but have a smaller diameter.
Unlike the first option, the use of a gas reservoir complicates the work process. Its weight is greater, and the length is greater than the previous version.
When working from a gas reservoir, you can get the result of a longer warm-up, but the unit will also cool down much more slowly.
For these purposes, you can purchase doors or make them yourself. In the first option, cast structures are chosen. The potbelly stove contains two doors, one for laying firewood, the other for a blower. The bookmark door should be larger.
For the manufacture of the door, a piece of the balloon wall is taken. In addition, loops are selected that are welded to the base of the stove. In addition, you need to weld a latch to the door.
The simplest option does not provide for the presence of grates, especially if it is a potbelly stove with a horizontal arrangement. Additional metal strips are welded to increase heat transfer.
If it is necessary to install grate bars in the horizontal version, then the ash pan is welded from below.
In the vertical version, the grates are installed more often. To do this, thick reinforcement rods are welded in the inner part of the furnace. She will play the role of grates. The only drawback is the burnout of the fittings, but in any case, you can weld on a new one.
Making a potbelly stove with your own hands
First, you need to check the gas cylinder for gas residues. This is done by unscrewing the valve, and the outgoing jet is directed away from you.
Potbelly stoves can be of various shapes and designs, but the principle of operation remains unchanged. A potbelly stove from a gas cylinder can be of two types:
For the first option, the balloon is placed horizontally. The upper part is cut off, grate grates are installed inside, which can be made from reinforcement.
After that, proceed to the front. A circle is cut out of a sheet of steel, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the future furnace. Inside the blank, rectangles are cut out for the doors.
The curtains are welded to the finished workpiece and the doors are put on them. The resulting structure is welded to the front.
A chimney will be located on the back; for this, a hole is made, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the pipe.
For the second option, the balloon is positioned vertically. You can use two methods to complete the work on arranging the furnace.
After that, the grates are prepared. To fix them in the oven, you need to work hard, with the first method it is easier to do this, because the grate is easily installed through the cut off upper part. With the second method, it is more difficult to do this.
Having installed the grilles, you can start welding the curtains and placing the doors. For tightness, the joints are pasted over with an asbestos-cement cord.
The next stage is the chimney. It can also be installed in two ways:
When positioned laterally, I use an additional knee.
And the last step is the final assembly. If the top of the cylinder has been cut off, it is welded on and a chimney is attached, which can be of different lengths and configurations.
Gas cylinder modification - one of the easiest ways making a potbelly stove with your own hands. In addition, an empty propane vessel can be found in many private houses or summer cottages. If you have a welding machine, you can easily give it a second life.
It is easy to make a potbelly stove yourself. It takes up little space, is unpretentious to fuel, and you can cook on it. But it is important to remember that such a stove often causes fires. Therefore, it must be installed in a safe place and surrounded by non-combustible materials.
Before starting work, you need to stock up on the necessary tools and materials:
For efficient heating you need to choose the right size.
A 5 liter bottle is not enough even for the smallest room. 12- and 27-liter vessels can be used for heating, but in winter the heat capacity of such a stove will not be enough even for a garage. The most optimal is considered to be a capacity of 50 liters. Most often, propane is transported in these. He has standard dimensions: 30 cm in diameter, 85 cm in height.
If the oven is based on a 40-liter vessel, it is important to remember that it has thicker walls and a smaller diameter. This is important because these values affect the heating rate and heat retention.There are a number of preparatory activities required so that residual gas does not explode during processing... The scheme of the gas disposal procedure is as follows:
Read also: Potbelly stove with a water circuit
In horizontal orientation the bottom of the cylinder serves as the back wall of the furnace, and a furnace door is made from the cover. Below is a step-by-step instruction:
Some additional words on the manufacture of doors.
Read also: Making a stove from a barrel
There are several ways to increase the efficiency of a potbelly stove. They are presented in the table.
| A way to increase efficiency. | Method |
| Insulate the chimney. | The chimney does not need to be directed vertically upwards, but rather curved. So hot air will stay in the room longer, which will have a positive effect on heat transfer. |
| Increase the metal-to-air contact area. | To do this, the so-called "wings" are welded to the stove - metal strips on both sides of the firebox. |
| Build a tile. | Weld on an additional sheet of metal above the combustion chamber. You can put a kettle or a saucepan on it. And if you improve the design with a cover consisting of several circles, you can control the degree of heating. |
| Make a brick "fur coat" | Brickwork around the stove will increase the heat transfer time and help heat the room more efficiently. Minus - so the potbelly stove will lose its nominal mobility. But moving a heavy structure with a pipe to another place is already not easy. |
| Working off. | Moistening the wood with used oil will increase the burning time by 30%. In this way, an unprecedented heat capacity can be achieved. |
Another way to increase heat transfer is to install it on the chimney water sleeve... It's easy to make it:
An additional one can be attached to the main body. It should be installed as vertical branch pipe... This design will increase traction, provide an even long burning, and will also save the room from the ingress of smoke, significantly improve heat transfer.
When using a second cylinder, the chimney pipe should be welded to the top of the structure.
Grate - required element potbelly stove designs. It helps to reduce the area of contact of the burning fuel with the walls of the furnace. In addition, it helps to filter out unburned residues from coal more thoroughly.
People who live in regions where it is mostly cold are puzzled by the issue of heating their residential and non-residential premises. Today it is not so difficult to equip a heating system in a house, because all materials, including a heater, are freely available. However, what if you want to be comfortable not only in the house, but also in technical rooms, for example, a garage, a shed or a workshop? It is very irrational to install a boiler and run a heating system for such purposes, moreover, it is quite costly, so people have managed to create heaters from improvised materials, which are also economical. These include the currently widespread stove-potbelly stove. It is very easy to do it yourself. In addition, the fact that there is no electronics in it greatly simplifies its use, therefore it is widely used in summer cottages, in garages and sheds.
It is necessary to start work with the choice of material for the furnace. For a potbelly stove, as a rule, they use gas cylinders... It is worth noting that you can only take a solid metal cylinder, since the rest are not heat-resistant.
The main point when choosing a cylinder is its volume. A heater cannot be made from a small 5-liter cylinder, since it is, at best, suitable for storing fuel. It is better to take containers of 12 or 27 liters. The power of such stoves will not be too large, but 2-3 and 5-7 kW can be obtained.
To heat a small room, you need to take a cylinder of about 50 liters, with a diameter of 30 cm, and a height of 85 cm. The volume of such a container will allow the fuel material to completely burn out without leaving any residues. The advantage of this material is that the cylinder is easy to get, because many residents of the private sector use gas equipment. You can also use industrial cylinders with a volume of 40 liters. But their disadvantage is their large weight and small diameter. It is not very convenient to work with them. It is very comfortable to make camping stoves from small cylinders with a volume of up to 10 liters, but it should be borne in mind that their weight will be rather big.
A potbelly stove from a gas cylinder can be assembled with your own hands. This work should begin with the preparation of the cylinder.
The preparatory work consists in completely emptying the cylinder from the gas that is in it. If there is gas in the container, then to begin with, simply unscrew the valve and let it come out. Then the condensate is drained off. To do this, the container must be turned over and some unnecessary container must be substituted under the condensate, since the liquid has a very unpleasant pungent odor and takes a very long time to disappear.
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Further, the cylinder is put in its normal position and is filled to the top with water, thereby displacing all the remaining gas. After that, the water can be drained and proceed with the arrangement of the stove, because on this preparatory work are over.
The preparation of the cylinder must be performed without fail, since welding and a grinder will be involved in the process, which require increased safety.
Folk craftsmen have learned to make different types bourgeoisie. Their difference in shape and size, however, unites them by one thing - the principle of operation. As for the burzhuykas, they are of two types:
In order to independently equip such a heater, you first need to study the drawing of the stove, it can be easily found on the Internet.
To begin with, the balloon is marked where the doors will be on it. There should be two of them, since one is used for laying combustible material, and the second for supplying oxygen. Drawing approximate lines where the doors will be located, we determine the size by eye. After that, the balloon is cut into two parts across. A lattice is welded to the lower part, in order to make it, you can use fittings. After that, both halves are fastened together again. When these works are completed, with the help of a grinder, doors are cut and hinges and handles are made. Stops are welded on.
After all this work, you need to cut off the valve. This must be done in such a way that a hole with a diameter of 90 mm is obtained. A pipe of the same diameter must be installed in this hole. If you do this work yourself, then the whole process can take about 10 hours.
Using firewood as a fuel material, a full load of the stove can last for 1.5-2 hours.
Currently, craftsmen have gotten used to improving the potbelly stove. We will consider the way to improve it further.
