House, design, renovation, decor.  Courtyard and garden.  With your own hands

House, design, renovation, decor. Courtyard and garden. With your own hands

» Homemade mini machines for a home workshop. Homemade machines and accessories for the home workshop - a detailed review

Homemade mini machines for a home workshop. Homemade machines and accessories for the home workshop - a detailed review

To keep a home comfortable and convenient requires sophisticated technology. It greatly facilitates domestic work, but certain skills and knowledge are required to service it. Not everyone knows all the capabilities of modern tools and does not fully use them. If you change them a little, you can get comfortable homemade gadgets for the workshop.

If you gradually acquire models of popular brands, they will turn out to be durable and reliable assistants. In addition, devices are needed for positioning and fixing the workpieces during their processing. At the dacha it will be

As inventory accumulates home master it should be sorted into groups:

  • locksmith and carpentry tools;
  • devices;
  • electrical equipment.

All fittings allow boxes and cabinets. Keeping inventory clean and tidy makes it possible to create a comfortable working environment and ensure the long-term preservation of tools.

Homemade woodworking tools

Wood processing is most common in the household. A useful DIY tool for a workshop is primarily a workbench. It should be comfortable in height. Its lid is located at the level of bent palms. If you need to raise it, bars of the required thickness are installed on the dowels from below.

Making a modern workbench

The classic workbench consists of a lid with front and back vices. This design is more suitable for manual work. It is poorly adapted to work with power tools due to the fact that the workpieces can be difficult to fix. You can buy a modern compact workbench MASTER cut 1000 worth 12 thousand rubles, which folds up. You can install hand tools on it: a circular saw, a jigsaw and a router. But then it will have to be redone. Good performance has a workbench Festool MFT 3. However, the price of 30 thousand rubles makes you think. The master will be able to make homemade devices for the home workshop that work just as well.

To make a workbench, you need smooth, knot-free plywood. The thickness must be at least 20 mm. Having installed a jigsaw on it from below, it will be possible to saw boards and small bars along, across, at an angle, as well as complex curved profiles. The tool performs additional functions of circular and band saws.

First, the table top is made. An arcuate groove is cut out in it to install a guide for workpieces, which can be mounted at any angle. A guide with a slot is also made under the jigsaw. Its width is chosen according to the size of the tool sole.

The sides should be cut out of plywood and glued to the table top to give it rigidity. The legs of the workbench are made from a bar. Can be made metal carcass and then screw the tabletop to it. Then the structure will turn out to be light and durable. The guides from the bottom are attached to the table top with furniture nuts.

The jigsaw is installed from the bottom of the workbench cover - "upside down". Only the file remains visible from above. For the convenience of using the jigsaw, an additional switch is installed. The guide should also be easily removable so that the tool file can be easily replaced. For easy access to the underside, the tabletop can be hinged.

The workbench takes up little space and can even be installed at home. To do this, it is made foldable so that it can be easily disassembled and put into a closet or closet.

How to make a workbench for a summer residence

For work in the country or in country house you need a powerful workbench. The tabletop is knocked together from a thick edged board up to 2 m long.It will not be superfluous if it is additionally fixed with self-tapping screws. From the bottom along the perimeter, the tabletop is sheathed with a bar. Table legs make square section 120x120 mm. They can be buried in the ground or attached to a reinforced concrete base. The entire structure is treated with an antiseptic and coated with linseed oil.

When the workbench is installed, do-it-yourself devices are mounted on it: guides, devices for fastening workpieces and power tools.

How to make a pipe bender with your own hands

In a subsidiary farm, it is necessary to have a device for bending metal pipes and profiles. The simplest homemade tool for bending pipes up to 20 mm in diameter is a steel plate with welded pins. Having inserted a workpiece between them, it can be bent to the desired curvature. In such simple devices, the pipe is crushed at the bend. To avoid this, it is necessary to densely fill the pipe with sand. Heating it with a blowtorch, which any master has, will also help.

To improve the quality of bending, instead of pins, 2 profiled rollers and a locking element are used. You can also make a special profile from a steel angle and a plate and fix it on a workbench with a solid base. In the picture, the structure is attached directly to the boards. You can make it portable by mounting it on a steel sheet and fixing it to the bottom of the countertop. Then the pipe bender, which has to be used quite rarely, will not interfere with the carpentry work. The portable device, like other homemade workshop accessories, can be used in the garage. It is convenient to fix it there, and it may be needed not only for pipes.

Homemade circular saw

Branded machines have great prices, and a homemade tool for a home workshop is quite suitable for a private user. It can be made on the basis of manual, cheaper models.

The circular workbench must be stable. A frame with a slot for a disk is attached to the tabletop. The best material is a sheet of metal or solid wood that can withstand heavy loads. It has an insignificant thickness, which makes it possible to use most disc and sawing products of sufficient thickness. In addition, the tool itself and the machine tool attachment are attached to the bed. The guide bar is made to slide on steel or aluminum skids, or is secured with clamps.

Installed on the bottom of the table top on the bed. You can also use a grinder or drill, but they are not as effective and do not allow you to use the entire working area of ​​the disc. The mount can be anything, as long as it is reliable.

When working with a circular saw, remember that it has a high speed and safety rules must be followed.

Homemade bow saw

Homemade woodworking tools can be very simple but effective. These include a bow saw. A thin blade makes it possible to quickly cut a large log. It is easy to replace it with a new one when the saw is dull. A bow saw can be made independently from 3 pieces of durable wood. Two handles with cuts at the ends are connected in the middle by a crossbar using a tenon-socket connection. A canvas is inserted into the slots and fixed with two nails. On the other hand, it is pulled with a rope loop draped over the handles and twisted with a knob.

How to sharpen a knife

Hand sharpening for knives is more efficient because a strong cutting edge is obtained. To facilitate the process, it is widely used homemade device... It consists of a bar with a clamp for a bar, a base for fixing a knife and a stand for adjusting the angle of installation.

With the reciprocating movement of the bar with the bar fixed on it, the blade is sharpened. The abrasive surface is pressed against the blade only when moving from the heel to the point. By slightly changing the design of the knife sharpening base, you can also edit the blades of carpentry tools.

Homemade garage accessories

The garage is not only a place to hide a car, but also a workshop where you can store tools and carry out repair work.

Shelves and racks

Provide fixtures with their own hands. For this, a rack is made, which is usually placed on top. Then he will not interfere with movement inside. Install from below small workbench for work, which also stores tools. It is most convenient to place everything near the back wall of the garage. Then the side passages will be free.

The inspection pit is laid out with bricks or cast in concrete, and then closed with a lid so that it does not interfere with the passage.

Puller manufacturing

Normal work with the car is carried out using a standard set of tools. Craftsmen make special equipment. A puller is often required to retract the bearings. The most convenient is the three-valve design. The standard device may not be enough. If you make a puller with your own hands, it will last for many years.

Small devices are made from steel sheet 10 mm thick. A pattern is made on it and the legs are cut out with a gas cutter. They are processed on an emery machine, adjusting the dimensions. The core is machined from the round timber, the foot holders are welded, the threads for the wrench are cut and the necessary holes are drilled. The legs are held by bolts with a diameter of 8-10 mm.

Making a puller requires skill with many tools. Assistants may be needed here. A convenient solution is to make removable legs of the desired configurations that can be changed on a product purchased in a store.

Conclusion

Homemade accessories for the workshop can solve many problems in the household and subsidiary farming with minimal effort and cost.

The most popular machines are wood and metalworking. Any of them would look great in a home workshop. If not for their price. Today we will tell you how to make useful equipment with your own hands.

Wood lathe - we embody the experience of millennia in the home workshop

Official history holds that the first woodworking lathe was created in 650 AD. BC NS. Over the past millennia, machine tool building has stepped forward, and modern devices perform dozens of tasks. However, we are interested in home-made machines and accessories for a home workshop.

The lathe remains one of the most demanded mechanisms. It is designed to give rounded shapes and patterns to a wooden blank. By the way, some of them managed to work with them in school labor lessons. Someone remembers his device, but the picture below will help someone:

Most of the details have self-explanatory names. But during assembly, we will explain what this or that element is responsible for. But since. the machine is homemade, we will leave only the basic mechanisms:

  • Bed;
  • Electric drive;
  • Tail and headstock;
  • Assistant.

This process begins with drawings:

We will leave the dimensions of the machine as standard for factory products:

  • Length - 800 mm;
  • Width - 400 mm;
  • Height - 350 mm.

Such dimensions of the device allow working with workpieces with a diameter of 250 mm and a length of 200 mm. Of course, the dimensions are not impressive, but this is our first machine. The assembly begins with the manufacture of the bed - the rest of the mechanisms are attached to it.

The next element is an electric drive. Homemade products are advised to use electric motors of old washing machines for these purposes. Such a drive has acceptable power and a ready-made control device (bolts and fasteners are a bonus). The power plant is mounted on a separate plate and attached to the bed (sometimes they are made detachable).

Headstock - holds and rotates the workpiece. You can make it yourself from sheet metal or thick plywood. But it is safer to use a factory spindle with multiple pins. In factory machines, it is connected to the power plant using a belt drive. We can put the holding device directly on the motor shaft.

The spindle for lathes is a rotating shaft equipped with a mechanism for holding workpieces.

Tailstock - serves to support and rotate the workpiece installed in the machine. It is best to use a metal head from an electric drill for these purposes. In the future, it is used as an independent fastener or for installing a pen drill. The tailstock is mounted on a carriage from corners or channels, moving along the bed.

By the way, many interesting ideas homemade machine tools involve the use of old power tools.

At the output, we should get something like this:

WITH they believed the iron without leaving home - do-it-yourself milling machine

Along with wooden blanks, metal products are regularly required in the household. To work with it, a person came up with a lot of machines: turning, cutting, milling, etc. The metalworking lathe is similar to woodworking - the difference is in the margin of safety and power. Cut-off machine involves working with iron canvases. But an ordinary homeowner needs a metal saw or a grinder for these purposes. But a milling machine is required much more often. With its help, shaped surfaces and planes are processed and complex metal products (pulleys, rollers, etc.) can be manufactured.

Factory price milling machine starts from 10 thousand rubles (usually much higher). But if you have free time, some details and skillful hands, it can be assembled at home. Let it be not too powerful and beautiful, but functional.

For a home milling machine you will need:

  • Electric drill powered by 220 volts (power drive);
  • Jack;
  • Metal channels, corners # 25, square tube # 20;
  • Metal rods for axles or threaded rods;
  • Plywood 10 mm thick (workbench tabletop);
  • Collet;
  • Morse taper is a special fastening in the machine spindle. Differs in reliability, centering accuracy and allows you to quickly change the tool;
  • Locksmith tools, welding machine, fasteners.

As you can see, visiting a specialized store is inevitable - all kinds of handicraft devices can injure a novice master.

An approximate diagram of the future machine can be viewed below:

This drawing is not a standard, but on its basis it is quite possible to develop your own mechanism. After preparation necessary tools and sketches, you can start assembling. It begins with the creation of a bed and a column. This is a U-shaped structure, laid on its side, where the bottom plane is the base of the machine.

The next step is the guides that allow the console to move vertically. For these purposes, ground corners (No. 25), bolted to the bed, are used. Having finished with the vertical guides, proceed to the horizontal ones. A square pipe will come in handy here - we drill holes in it through which we pass metal rods with threaded threads (or studs).

Modern machining of metal parts is almost impossible without a lathe. To save money, you can make this device yourself.

In fact, making an ego is not as difficult as it seems, and a drawing of a lathe can easily be found on the Internet. The design of the machine can be very diverse, as well as its dimensions.

The material for making it at home is easy to find in any garage.

Lathe device

It is impossible to make a lathe with your own hands without knowing its structure, so below we present its main parts:

  • Drive unit. The basis of the mechanism, generates power. For a low-power machine, a drive from a drill or washing machine is suitable;
  • Stanina. For manufacturing, a steel corner or a frame made of wood is suitable, this is a kind of supporting frame, so it must be strong to withstand vibrations;
  • Tailstock. It is made by welding a corner to an iron plate. It is needed to fix it during processing of the manufactured device;
  • Headstock. Installed on a movable frame, similar to the tailstock;
  • Caliper. Serves as a support for the working part.

The torque is transmitted by the motor to the working part using the following options:

  • Chain;
  • With a belt;
  • Friction.

Each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Belt - the cheapest and most reliable, easy to manufacture. But the belt wears out quickly and needs to be replaced frequently.

A chain chain is more expensive, it is more bulky, but it lasts a long time. According to its advantages and disadvantages, the frictional one is in the middle position. It is worth noting the fact that photos of a lathe with different gears are available on the Internet, and you can easily study them in detail.

Caliper - Extreme important detail machine tool. It regulates both the amount of effort expended during work and the quality of the part.

Moves in different directions and is therefore highly susceptible to wear. Do not forget to adjust it before starting work.

Sequence of assembly of the mechanism

We assemble the machine frame using channels and beams. The larger the details you plan to work with, the more durable materials there must be a frame.

For the production of the headstock, we need a hydraulic cylinder with a wall thickness of 6 mm or more. We press 2 bearings into the cylinder. With the help of bearings of large diameter, we lay the shaft.

It is necessary to add lubricant to the hydraulic booster. Then we install the caliper with guides and the pulley.

We install the handguard to give stability to the cutter. From below we attach a small strip of metal, which betrays the working part of wear resistance.

Which electric motor to choose?

The motor is the most important part of any machine, because without it it will not function. The total power of the machine depends on its power. A motor with a power of up to a kilovolt (old sewing machines can serve as a donor), suitable for the manufacture of small parts.

Motors with a capacity of 1.5-2 kW. used in the processing of large parts. Never forget to insulate all electrical parts.

For correct installation motor, it is better to call an electrician than to get injured.

How to make a lathe from a drill?

To save on spare parts and simplify collection, it is allowed to use a drill as a drive. This design has its advantages:

Note!

  • the structure is assembled and disassembled at any time;
  • transferred and transported quite simply, because it is quite easy to disassemble it;
  • cost savings;

But this method has its drawbacks, because the drill has a low torque, which makes it almost impossible to process large parts.

It is worth modifying a metal lathe with a drill only when a large amount of work is not planned and small parts need to be made.

To manufacture this type of metal lathe, you need ordinary parts (with the exception of the motor and headstock). The drill takes over the function of the headstock.

Due to the compactness of the machine, the role of the bed can be performed by a flat surface or a workbench. The drill itself can be secured with a clamp or clamp.

The following safety points must be observed:

Note!

  • upon completion of the layout of the machine, it is necessary to check the serviceability.
  • the electric motor in the machine must be protected by a casing;
  • the power of the electric motor must be covered by your electrical network;
  • the working tool can only be located parallel to the surface of the workpiece being prepared. Otherwise, it will bounce off;
  • when processing the end planes, the latter should be abutted against the tailstock;
  • you can start work only using eye protection from shavings;
  • after work it is necessary workplace leave clean.

A woodworking machine requires compliance with the same safety precautions as a metalworking one.

Changing the machine

When it is necessary to install tapered holes, we attach two files so that a trapezoid shape is obtained. Next, we mount the device on the springs for supplying the file.

For sharpening various blades, we attach a grinding wheel to the engine.

Summing up, I want to say that the assembly of the machine is quite simple. It is quite possible to make a homemade lathe at home using available materials, which is a fairly economical measure.

You can adjust the size and power of the equipment yourself, as well as carry out the necessary modifications.

Note!

Photo of a lathe with your own hands

Each master strives to equip his sphere as much as possible, saturate the working space with machine tools and fixtures. Home-made machines and accessories for a home workshop are of great benefit for running a private household.

Homemade household items and equipment include:

  • joinery;
  • crafting table;
  • stool;
  • shelves;
  • racks.

Crafting table

Workbench dimensions

The height of the countertop surface should be such that the worker can stand up to operate tools and equipment. The owner of the workshop determines the height of the workbench himself - according to his height. The height of the worktable ranges from 75 cm to 80 cm.

The size of the countertop is determined by the area of ​​the utility room. The table should not obstruct free passage around it.

Workbench material

Wood
Often use wooden table... The workbench is made of timber and boards. The legs of the table are fastened with diagonal crossbars for reliability.

The table top is made in the form of a shield from knocked down boards with pieces of timber. The shield is supported on the table legs and fastened with nails or screws. Connection details are made of steel angle.

The options for assembling a wooden workbench are different, but in one thing they are the same - the design of the table must be stable and withstand static and dynamic loads.

If the surface of the workbench will be exposed to accidental effects of cutting and sharp tools, then the tabletop is upholstered with tin or a metal sheet is placed on top.

Metal
The most robust design the working table is a workbench welded from a metal profile. Manufacturing a welded product requires a welding machine and experience with it.

The base frame and table legs are welded from a steel corner and a strip. For auxiliary parts, reinforcement segments are used.

The table top is made of a metal sheet, 8 - 12 mm thick. A thick sheet will significantly increase the weight of the workbench, making it difficult to move.

Stool

DIY stool is quite simple:

  1. 4 supports are made of 40 x 40 mm timber, 50 cm long.
  2. Legs in the middle of the length are fastened with crossbars.
  3. In the supports, grooves are made with a chisel.
  4. At the ends of the transverse strips, projections are cut out with a chisel to fit the grooves.
  5. The protrusions are lubricated with wood glue and inserted into the grooves.
  6. While the glue dries, the supports are tightened with a belt.
  7. The seat is cut out with a circular saw from wide board 30 mm thick.
  8. A seat measuring 300 x 300 mm is nailed or screwed to the legs of the stool.

Shelves

Shelves are made of board, chipboard or MDF. They are open or with side walls. For fasteners, hinged furniture hinges are used.

Holes are drilled in the wall into which dowels are driven. The screws are not completely screwed into the dowels so that the shelf hinges can be put on them.

The hinges are screwed to the back of the shelf. The shelves are hung on the wall by putting hinges on the screw heads.

Racks

Racks are a whole range of shelves of different sizes. It is good to make them from chipboard. The lattice structure is supported on a pedestal or simply placed on the floor. For the stability of the rack, the corners are screwed to the sides of the furniture. The free shelves of the corners with holes are nailed to the wall with dowels.

Vertical tool holders

Every craftsman strives to organize his workplace so that the tools are at arm's length. This is facilitated by the vertical holders.

Wrench holder

  1. A wooden plank is attached to the wall above the workbench. The rail is screwed into the dowels installed in advance.
  2. Small nails are driven into the bar at intervals equal to the width of the wrench handles.
  3. The keys are hung on a rail.
  4. The nail heads hold the keys horizontally and vertically.

Screwdriver holder

  1. In a piece of timber 40 x 40 mm, holes are drilled corresponding to the diameters of the screwdrivers, at a distance of 30 - 40 mm from each other.
  2. A piece of timber is nailed to the wall with dowels so that the holes are vertical.
  3. Screwdrivers are inserted into the resulting sockets. Now you can get it quickly the right tool without leaving the workplace.

Chisel belt

  1. The plank is attached to the wall with dowels.
  2. The belt or belt is nailed to the bar with nails so that a kind of through pockets are obtained.
  3. Chisels are lowered into the pockets, through which only steel blades pass. The handles are held in place by a strap.

The device can hold hammers, pliers, pliers and other tools.

Homemade soldering iron stand

Working with a soldering iron, a situation arises when you need to put the tool aside. Putting a soldering iron with a hot tip on a tabletop or on any object is always risky. A homemade stand will solve this problem.

An example of making a stand for a soldering iron

  1. The holder is made of wire in the form of a spiral. To do this, unbend a wire hanger.
  2. The wire is wound on a cylindrical object with a diameter of 1.5 - 2 cm. The handle of a chisel or other tool will do.
  3. On one side, the springs leave a free end of the wire.
  4. The end is bent with round-nose pliers into a loop.
  5. For the base of the stand, take a board 200 x 100 x 20 mm.
  6. A ø 4 mm through hole is drilled into the base.
  7. On the back of the board, the hole is drilled with a large drill - under the screw head.
  8. The screw is threaded from bottom to top.
  9. A spring loop is put on the screw and the nut is tightened.
  10. In the board, circles are cut out with a crown to the size of a cup for candles or similar products.
  11. A chisel makes a selection of wood in 3 grooves.
  12. Cups are inserted into the openings, which are filled with solder, tin and a napkin for cleaning the tip.
  13. The soldering iron is inserted into the spring.
  14. A small hole is made in the board for attaching a flexible steel cord from the lamp.
  15. At the end of the cord, a clamp is fixed, with which various parts for soldering are fixed.

The design may have a different look - it all depends on the imagination and ingenuity of the author.

The easiest mousetrap in the world

This name can be attributed to many homemade mousetraps invented by craftsmen. They are united by one thing - this is the humane treatment of the animals that have fallen into the trap. The device does not kill the animal, but isolates it. Here are some examples of how to make a simple mousetrap:

Plastic funnel

Cut the plastic 3 liter bottle in half. The cut neck is turned over and inserted into the bottom of the bottle. Bait is poured onto the bottom (seeds, grain, etc.).

The trap is placed close to an object on which the mouse could climb. The rodent, having fallen into the funnel, can no longer get out of the bottle.

Console

The structure is a tipping platform. It is made from a piece of cardboard or plastic. The bar is placed on a plane so that half of it hangs in the air.

The bait is placed on the edge of the console so that the bar is on the verge of balance. The animal, having reached the bait, knocks over the bar and falls with it into the bucket that has been substituted.

Suspension

They put an empty one on the edge of the table plastic bottle with bait at the bottom. A cord is attached to the neck by piercing the plastic with a crochet from a paper clip. The other end of the cord is tied to some kind of support.

The mouse, attracted by the smell of food, enters the container. The bottle overturns under the weight of the rodent and hangs on the cord.

Metal loop mini vise

When performing small operations, it is often necessary to clamp small parts. To do this, use a mini vise made of a one-piece door hinge.

In both flaps, the hinges are drilled matching holes.

A bolt of a suitable diameter is threaded through them. On the other hand, a wing nut is screwed onto the bolt thread. Parts are inserted into the opening between the flaps and clamped by tightening the nut. The device can be used as a clamp.

Portable beer crate

A box for drinks in a glass container is a convenient device for carrying several bottles at once in the country or at a picnic. To make such a box with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:

Tools

  • jigsaw;
  • saw on wood;
  • grinder;
  • drill screwdriver;
  • drill;
  • a hammer;
  • chisel;
  • feather drill.

Materials (edit)

  • edged board - 1050 x 170 x 15 mm;
  • strips from the fruit box - 5 pcs.;
  • handle ø 36 mm and length 350 mm;
  • stain;
  • screws;
  • nails.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling the box

  1. The edged board is sawn into three identical parts (bottom and two sidewalls), each 350 mm long.
  2. Two boards are cut with a jigsaw so that from their middle the sidewalls taper and end with an oval top.
  3. In the tops of the sidewalls, holes ø 36 mm are drilled with a feather drill.
  4. All wooden parts are cleaned with a sander with an emery wheel. The handle is sanded by hand with emery.
  5. 4 holes are drilled with a thin drill along the edges of the bottom. From the bottom, the holes are countersunk.
  6. The sides are installed on the sides of the bottom. Screws are screwed in from the bottom of the bottom. The screw heads "hide" in the hole slots.
  7. Two strips are nailed to the sides with studs on each side of the box. They will become a vertical bottle guard.
  8. In three slats, cuts are made so that by folding them, you get a crate with square openings for glass containers.
  9. The crate is laid on the bottom between the sidewalls.
  10. Carnations are nailed in those places where the ends of the crate rest against the sidewalls and guardrails.
  11. A handle of ø 36 mm is threaded into the holes of the tops of the sidewalls.
  12. Driving in nails at an angle, fasten the sidewalls with the handle.
  13. The entire surface of the box is treated with stain.

The box is ready for use. The portable container is free for 6 bottles of beer or other drink. The crate and railings of the box will prevent bottles from breaking or falling out during transport.

Hammer modernization

A common occurrence is a wooden handle falling out of the hammer socket. One of the ways to create a secure attachment of the handle is to make a cut in the upper end of the handle. The holder is inserted into the socket of the hammer. The kerf is filled with Moment glue. A wooden wedge is driven into the groove.

In order not to look for nails during work, and even more so not to hold them with your teeth, a round magnet is glued into the hammer handle from below. Magnetic nails will always be at hand for the worker.
It is dangerous to accidentally fall out of the hand at a height. To prevent this from happening, a hole is drilled in the handle through which the cord is threaded. The employee's belt is threaded into the loop.

Homemade tools and machines

Pipe bender

The metal pipe bending device is a metal rod welded to the bed. The rod is made from a piece of reinforcement. The pipe is put on the pin, and on the other side, a long piece of reinforcement is inserted into the pipe. By pressing the lever, the pipe is bent at the desired angle. The device is suitable for small sections of round pipes.

Bending device for profiled pipes

Greenhouse owners know how important it is to have a device for bending lengths from a profile pipe. The curved profile is used as an arched structure for the formation of polyethylene coverings for greenhouses.

The pipe bender allows you to save a lot of money on the construction of a greenhouse. The design consists of 3 rollers - two are guides, and the third roller performs the leading function.

The profile tube is inserted into the opening between the two wheels and the roller. The roller has a stop and a swivel device in the form of a lever or an electric motor drive.

Making a pipe bender with your own hands

  1. Two axles are welded to a metal frame from pieces of smooth reinforcement, onto which old automobile hubs are put on.
  2. The protruding chamfers are removed from the hubs so that the side surfaces of the rollers are smooth.
  3. A channel is placed in the opening between the hubs with the shelves up.
  4. The same profile is inserted into the channel, of a smaller width, with the shelves down.
  5. An axle is welded to the inner profile from above, on which the third hub is put on.
  6. A vertical sheet steel shelf is welded to the bed.
  7. A hole is cut in the vertical bar and a bearing is pressed into it.
  8. The nut is fixed on the middle channel by welding.
  9. At one end, the screw shaft is screwed into the nut.
  10. The shank of the screw is threaded through the bearing in the vertical bar.
  11. On the back of the strap, a rotary handle is welded to the shank.
  12. A pivot arm is welded to the axis of the drive hub.

The machine is now ready for use. Between the rollers they lead shaped tube and clamp it with a screw. The pivoting lever sets the rollers in motion, which pull the pipe, bending it. The bending radius is set with the rotary screw handle.

A pipe bender from car hubs is one of the device options. There are many designs of bending devices. In some models, the drive roller is coaxially connected to the motor shaft.

Impact screwdriver from starter

There are situations when it is impossible to unscrew a rusted bolt or screw with a regular tool. An impact screwdriver does an excellent job with this. The tool is made by hand from parts of a car starter:

  1. The shaft and bushing are removed from the starter housing.
  2. Part of the shaft is cut off, leaving the spline rod.
  3. A piece of pipe of a suitable size is put on the sleeve.
  4. A bolt of equal diameter is welded to the end of the pipe.
  5. The end of the shaft is turned in the form of a tetrahedron, on which heads of the desired size are put on. For screws, a bit is inserted into the head.

When struck with a hammer on the bolt head, the shaft slides with beveled splines inside the bushing, making rotary motion... The stronger the blow, the more effort the shaft turns.

Homemade circular saw

A do-it-yourself cut-off machine from a grinder is not inferior to some factory-made samples. The grinder is a fairly powerful circular saw.

The machine on the basis of the grinder performs precise cuts of lumber and metal profiles. For its manufacture, you will need the power tool itself, a welding machine and a metal profile.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling the machine

  1. Two metal strips are welded to the pipe section, in which the mounting holes are drilled.
  2. Accordingly, two holes are also made in the grinder's casing.
  3. The strips are bolted to the casing.
  4. The machine bed is made of a metal sheet with support corners welded from below.
  5. By welding, a vertical segment of the corner is attached to the bed, in which a hole is drilled.
  6. A piece of angle is welded to the lower end of the lever and drilled through with the pipe.
  7. The bolt is threaded through the holes and the hinge joint of the vertical rack with the lever is tightened with a nut. Additionally, a locknut is installed.
  8. In the vertical position, the grinder lever takes a stable position.
  9. At the point of contact of the saw blade with the bed, a cut is made so that the blade can completely cut the workpiece.
  10. The handle of the power tool is moved to the end of the lever.
  11. As additional devices, a cross and corner stop are installed on the bed.

If necessary, remove the power tool from the machine and use the circular saw in manual mode.

Homemade bow saw

Bow saw handy tool for sawing tree trunks and sawn timber. The saw design is simple, make hand tool with your own hands is easy. To do this, you need to prepare tools and materials:

Tools

  • drill;
  • saw-hacksaw;
  • chisel;
  • a hammer;

Materials (edit)

  • cord;
  • wooden lath 20 x 40 mm;
  • cotter pins - 2 pcs.;
  • handle ø 10 mm;
  • saw blade;
  • stain;
  • varnish on wood.

Step-by-step instructions for making a bow saw

  1. The strip is sawn into three parts (two vertical side strips and a middle horizontal strip).
  2. In the side handles, grooves are made with a chisel.
  3. At the ends of the centerpiece, projections are cut out with a chisel for the grooves.
  4. The mullion is connected to the side handles.
  5. Through holes are drilled at the joints. Wooden cotter pins are driven into them.
  6. The cotter pins form articulated joints. This is necessary for the mobility of the lower ends of the side rails when tensioning the web.
  7. At the lower ends of the sidewalls, cuts are made - parallel to the middle.
  8. Short bolts are inserted into the holes of the saw blade and tightened with nuts.
  9. The blade is led into the cuts so that the bolts are outside the structure.
  10. Circular grooves are cut at the upper ends of the handles.
  11. At the ends of the double cord, loops are made, which are put on the grooves.
  12. A handle is inserted between the strings of the cord, the long end of which rests against the middle.
  13. The string of the saw is twisted with a handle, achieving the desired degree of tension on the saw blade.
  14. The wood is covered with wood stain and two layers of varnish.
  15. After the varnish has dried, the saw is ready for use.

Conclusion

Home-made devices, tools and machines bring not only significant benefits to the backyard, garage and household, but also significantly save family budget... When making and using homemade products, one must not forget about safety rules.

If a person is often faced with the fact that he needs to make something from wood, he just loves to do it or makes things to order, then he just needs a machine. To purchase such things is not only expensive, but they also do not always fit in size, may be inconvenient or do not fit into the design. And here is a homemade machine with your own hands, made by the right size, fits perfectly into the space of the room and will always be comfortable.

Engine

If a decision was made to manufacture this device on our own, then it is important to choose the right components. For example, in order to design, you will definitely need an electric motor. This part can be of several types.

The first type of motor that can be used in the manufacture of a machine tool with your own hands is an asynchronous one. The advantage is that it is maintenance-free and will also allow you to work with a larger cutter. Among the disadvantages, one can single out a large amount of noise that the engine emits during operation. However, this is a purely individual question.

Collector motor. This option is somewhat worse than the previous one, for the reason that over time and the work of the part, its brushes wear out, which have to be changed. The more and more intensively the engine is used, the more often the brushes will have to be changed.

Engine power

Choosing the type of engine for a homemade machine tool with your own hands is not all. You need to pay attention to the cardinality of this element. This is a very important indicator.

Machines with power up to 0.5 kW are best suited for surface treatment of material. It should be added that only the softest wood species can be processed on such a machine and only small cutting tools can be used.

The second type of engine power for a self-made machine tool with your own hands is 1.2 kW. As practice shows, this indicator is the most universal and demanded. This power is quite enough for deep processing of wood. For home use, 1.2 kW is enough.

The last type of power is up to 2 kW. Most often, such machines are already semi-professional. They open up ample opportunities for wood processing, allow you to use almost any type of cutter, as well as process some types of plastic and soft metal - aluminum.

Workbench speed and power

If we talk about the number of revolutions for a self-made machine tool with your own hands, then everything is quite simple and understandable. The higher the numerical indicator of this characteristic, the cleaner and more efficient the final processing of a wood part will be. However, there is one more small plus here. If the number of revolutions is high enough, then such an engine is not afraid of such wood defects as knots. The cutter will go through them without any problems.

Nutrition is also pretty simple. Most often, those motors are chosen that are powered by 220/50. Installation and connection of this type of motor does not cause problems. Several more difficulties arise when connecting elements with three-phase power supply.

Workbench and machine frame

A self-made wood machine must have such an element as a workbench. The choice of its size should be based on what details will have to be worked with in the future. The dimensions of the table on which all this will be mounted do not really matter.

The frame for the machine must be selected so that it is not only very strong, but also can withstand dynamic loads. The main difference between a do-it-yourself electric woodworking machine and a manual machine is that the device itself will not move, but the workpiece will have to be actively moved. From a practical point of view, the use of wood for the machine frame is not best idea... This is due to the fact that over time the tree dries up, becomes covered with cracks and loses its strength. Most the best option will become metal pipe which has a square or rectangular profile.

Table top

When choosing this element, everything is exactly the same as with the frame, but vice versa. Metal will not the best choice as a starting material for two reasons. Firstly, the countertop will turn out to be very massive and will look too rough. Secondly, you will have to use welding to secure everything securely.

It is best to use one of the following three materials:

  • planed boards;
  • chipboard, OSV boards;
  • multilayer plywood.

The material for the countertop must be strong enough to withstand subsequent loads. For this reason, the thickness and material for the manufacture of this element must be selected based on what work will be carried out in the future. Another important detail is the smooth surface of the table. If you do not follow this recommendation, then you will not be able to make an accurate cutter. If it is important to assemble a homemade machine with your own hands so that you can perform a decent quality workpiece on it, then this is one of the most important conditions.

In order to provide perfect flat surface, you can use methods such as: lamination, sheet metal upholstery or precise fit planed boards.

How to make a machine with your own hands

The assembly procedure for this device begins with the need to determine the location of the engine. The best option the installation of this element under the table is considered. A cutter is placed on the motor shaft, which must be directed vertically upward. In order to facilitate the assembly procedure, it is best to make a drawing of the machine with your own hands, on which all the details have been depicted in advance.