- a guarantee of neat things and a neat look. Responsible and respectable housewives experience not very pleasant emotions when the device breaks down - not everyone can afford its expensive repair. And why give extra money if there is an opportunity to fix the device yourself. Let's look at what are the main malfunctions of the ironing device and how you can repair the iron at home on your own.
Before disassembling the ironer, check all external elements of the structure, perhaps the problem is in them. The main parts of the iron are located in its bottom, and they are the main reasons for breakage. These include:
1) Temperature regulator.
2) Electric cord
3) Water regulator
4) Steaming system
5) Iron sole
6) Heating element
The first ironing facility was invented in Ancient Greece - turned heated stones were used to pleat clothes. When the first iron similar to the modern form appeared, it was used exclusively for ironing silk.
Interesting fact: The bodies of the first irons were filled with hot coals.
It is not known who and when invented the semblance of a modern iron, but the invention of the first electrical device is attributed to Henry Seeley. The American registered the mechanism under the name "Electric flat iron" in 1882.
The weight of the electrical device was six kilograms. Therefore, it is not difficult to imagine what the ironing process was like. After the method of heating by means of a carbon arc was introduced into the mechanism, the care of fabric things became much easier.
In 1892, the Crompton Co and the General Electric Company began producing iron on an electric coil. Further, the devices introduced a current regulator and steam supply, protection against scale and other important options. The design of the irons changed in accordance with the fashion.
The principle of the ironing mechanism is as follows: the current heats up the coil, which directs the derived heat to the sole of the mechanism. The rather complicated design of the ironing apparatus includes the following elements:
To determine the malfunction, the device must be diagnosed. That is why for self repair it is recommended to know the design features and the principle of operation of the ironing machine.
The iron may not work for various reasons; poor care, the duration of operation, the water used and many other factors affect its breakdown. Consider the main signals of the device about a malfunction.
What does it mean when the iron beeps? Each device of this type has thermal relays installed, they periodically turn on and off. You can diagnose them with an electric tester. To do this, disassemble the iron and check the electrical signal with a tester.
Iron leaks: what to do? A leak can be caused by two reasons: a malfunctioning valve or improper operation. In the first case, water flows out of the steam generator iron: when the valve is closed or the liquid does not heat up enough to produce steam. To check the part, fill with water and plug in the appliance. Shake the device horizontally and turn off the steam. If water flows out, the valve is not closed tightly. With Philips ironing devices, such a malfunction occurs less often, especially long-term operation is typical for models and.
What if the iron does not steam well or does not release steam at all? The reason may lie in the scale. In this case, you need to clean the mechanism with a lemon solution: pour the citric acid mixture into the iron and put it on the steaming mode. Wait until steam is completely restored and rinse the device with distilled water.
Why doesn't the iron heat up? Optimal heating stops when the following parts break down: a pump, a thermal fuse, or simply loose contacts. For an accurate determination, the device should be diagnosed, you can do it yourself or entrust it to a specialist. For diagnostics, open the device and check the suspected parts with an electric tester. In the event of a malfunction of one of the parts, the beeping of the device will stop.
Why does the iron take a long time to cool down? The problem may be with the thermostat. You can check the breakage with a multimeter as follows: open the case and sand the contacts on the bimetallic plate with sandpaper. Check them with an electrical tester and twist the governor tiller. Number 1 on the display of the device will indicate its malfunction.
It is not a problem to disassemble the mechanism of the old design; it is more difficult to deal with new models. Modern three-tiered irons consist of a handle, body and sole. Find hidden under plastic trim screws can be difficult, for this you need to know the main places of their location. The fastening elements are located in the end part, under the temperature regulator and the handle, as well as under the buttons. Take a suitable screwdriver or other wrist object and gently pry off the housing of the instrument. After removing the body of the device, unscrew the last three screws on the inside of the sole. Now, we can consider that the last stages of dismantling have been completed. The mechanism is assembled in the same way. Watch the video: How to disassemble the iron in 3 minutes.
Advice: Take special care and caution when unwinding the iron. In most cases, it is impossible to disassemble the mechanism without breakdowns. You can find out the details of the design by reading the instructions, so there are more chances to protect the device from mechanical damage.
Most often, the cord is frayed near the plug and the casing. If the cord is faulty, the part needs to be replaced. Perform electrical tests first, they will help determine the exact cause of the breakdown. Tests are carried out using a multimeter, a test lamp, a phase indicator and with the help of a "liar". The principle of operation of the devices is the same. All of them serve to determine the electrical signal at given points. In some models of irons there is no power cord, it belongs to such devices.
Advice: In some cases, to resume normal operation of the iron, it is enough to clean the contacts on the plug. In this case, it is not necessary to change the wire.
Before replacing the main heating element - try to descale it. It is limescale that becomes the main reason for poor heating. With proper use, the heating element must be cleaned of corrosion, scale and other damage every 3 months. Also, due to strong overheating, the spiral on the heating element may break, this serves as another reason for replacing the part. Before buying a device, determine the required power, size, heat transfer conditions for the future part. The process of replacing the old heating element with a new one is simple, for this, connect a new one to the place of the faulty device. Teng is screwed on with screws.
Advice: The more power the iron is, the faster it will heat up. Powerful mechanisms include models and.
Advice: Since heating elements are produced in different designs, it will not be a problem to choose an element for a new iron model.
The thermal fuse is designed to protect electrical system device against mains overvoltages or short circuits. The part is placed near the main heating element. To diagnose a thermal fuse, use a multimeter (inexpensive option -): connect the "plus" and "minus" contacts to the two ends of the part. The number one on the display means an open circuit (complete malfunction of the device). As practice shows, common reason for a breakdown of the iron, a thermal fuse becomes. However, you should not be very afraid, during normal operation of the temperature controller, the device is capable of functioning without the help of a fuse.
An iron that fails at the wrong time can ruin all plans, especially if you are far from hypermarkets and hardware stores. You can try to fix the unit yourself. Not all modern models can be repaired, but there are devices that can be brought back to life. First you need to get to the insides. How to disassemble the Scarlet iron? This, as well as the repair of some other models, will be discussed in our article.
Before disassembling the Vitek, Scarlet or any other iron, try to figure out what exactly happened. Problems are different:
In the first case, you must first of all inspect:
If everything is in order, inspect the outside of the wire:
If there is visible damage, it is best to replace the wire; fortunately, in any company salon of the company that produced the iron, you will also find accessories. To do this, of course, you will need to remove it.
But sometimes there is no way to disassemble the iron. Therefore, in the damaged place, it is necessary to connect the broken pieces of wire and wrap it all with electrical tape. Or just rewind if torn outer part... It is possible that you do not have to get to the terminal block.
If everything is in order with the wire and the electrical network in the house is working normally, most likely the heating element has burned out. When the iron quickly turns off or overheats, problems can be with both the heating element and the thermostat. These parts cannot be repaired; it is best to replace them.
Important! It is better to buy replacement elements from the same company that produced the unit itself - then there is no risk that the parts will not fit.
Any electrical appliance consists of many different parts. In modern irons, of course, there are fewer small elements than in old ones. Individual elements are combined into non-separable units, and it is the group of parts that changes.
Regardless of whether you need to disassemble a Scarlet, Vitek or any other iron, you need to understand what is inside it. Each iron has:
Important! Almost everyone modern models there are holes in the sole. They are intended for steam outlet. With the help of a thermostat, the ironing mode is set - it is he who "is responsible" for the temperature to which the sole heats up. The steam unit includes not only a water tank, but also a sprinkler for forced outlet of heated steam, a flow regulator.
Before disassembling a Vitek iron or any other, prepare necessary tools and materials. You need:
You will need two types of screwdrivers:
Important! The knife can be successfully replaced with any hard flat object - for example, a ruler or by credit card you forgot to throw away. With their help, you will pry on those parts that are fastened with latches.
A multimeter is needed to ring the wire and all the elements of the electrical circuit that arouse your suspicions. Sandpaper is useful if you need to clean the contacts.
How to start repairing the Scarlet iron? There are not so many options - after examining the unit, you will make sure that there are only a few screws, and besides them, there are removable parts. Therefore, it is better to act in this order:
Most of the screws are on the back:
Important! It is enough to simply eliminate this nuisance, and you will not need to further disassemble the "Scarlet" or any other iron. The burned-out wire must be soldered, insulated and ringed with a tester, and then simply screw the lid back on.
If terminal block serviceable, the iron will have to be disassembled further. It should be borne in mind that some models (including Scarlett) under the lid and on the handle may also have fasteners, most often bolts. They also need to be removed. In general, you need to remove all fasteners that are removed.
Important! So they don't get confused, put a white sheet of paper on the table, and put the screws and bolts on it in the order in which you unscrewed them.
Unscrew the screws until the sole is detached from the body. This is possible with almost all models.
To do this, you need a multimeter:
This is the main part of any heating appliance.
Important! If an element breaks down, it is best to buy a new iron - some companies have very strange marketing policies, when replacing an element is more expensive than a new device.
But first, the heating element must be checked. To do this, you need to get close to the sole itself:
Important! To avoid problems with the heating element, it is enough just to regularly take care of the device. And this is not difficult. See for yourself by looking at several effective and very simple ways, .
If the cause of the breakdown is too serious and the purchase of a new part is very expensive, it is wise to purchase a new device. Ours will help you in this matter.
It can be extremely unpleasant if you put the disc on "silk" or "synthetics", and the unit heats up in a second as if you are going to iron cotton. There is nothing you can do, you have to deal with the thermostat.
It is a plate with a pin and many contacts. The pin is needed so that the disc is put on it - the one that you removed at the beginning of the process. Then we act like this:
There may be several problems:
Important! Sometimes the contacts mesh with each other. This happens if the iron is dropped. The iron heats up - the plate presses on the contacts, but they do not open. In this case, the plates must be made to move, but curvature must not be allowed.
This detail can also cause a lot of trouble. It is located approximately in the same place as the thermostat, and is needed to prevent overheating. Usually the fuse is protected by a white tube (but may be of a different color):
Important! In theory, the fuse can be removed from the circuit, but this should not be done. Better to replace it. You can get out of the situation by soldering a piece of copper wire with a cross section of 0.5 mm in place of the burnt element, putting a piece of cambric on it.
Doesn't steam come out even though the tank is full? First, check the holes. Cope with the trouble by performing a simple iron repair, you can pretty quickly.
Another solution can be made:
Important! In the same way, you can clean not only the iron, but also the sole separately - for this, the top must be sealed with polyethylene and scotch tape, and only then dipped into a container with water.
This is a fairly simple breakdown, most often caused by the disconnection of the tube:
Irons of this brand are not much different from other popular modern models, but they still have some features. As in all other cases, in order to work you need:
Important! The hardest step will be the first step. Irons of this brand have a decorative cap at the back with an unusual screw shape. The easiest way to unscrew it is with small scissors, but there may not be a screwdriver with a corresponding sting in the set.
The principle of inspection of the unit of this brand will be the same as for the "Scarlet", but again, there are subtleties, and the first of them is the screws that fasten the back cover. You will see three-pointed stars on the splines, so a Phillips screwdriver will not save you, as well as a star screwdriver.
If suddenly you have a special one in your set - consider that your iron is very lucky. It usually costs more than service at a service center. You can, in principle, try scissors, but you need to act very carefully. By removing the back cover, you get access to the insides of your unit, which means you can disassemble the iron, ring and replace the burned out parts.
As you can see, most of the probable problems with household appliances can be eliminated by hand. But still, if you have no idea about the operation of irons and electrical appliances in general, it is better to contact a service and repair center so as not to aggravate the problem.
If the iron stops heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and you can fix it yourself. If you know how to work with a screwdriver and a multimeter, you can do it. How to repair the iron with your own hands and we will talk in this article.
Since irons are produced by very different companies, they differ slightly - in shape, heating speed, quality of spare parts, etc. But the overall structure remains the same. Available:
General device of the electric iron
After you have familiarized yourself with what is where, in general terms, you can start repairing the iron with your own hands.
For work, you need a set of screwdrivers - cross and flat. You will need a wide knife or an unnecessary plastic card - pry the parts of the iron with snaps. To check the integrity of the parts, you will need a multimeter (read how to use it here). You may also need a soldering iron if you have to change any parts.
Tools you may need when repairing your iron
All of the tools, but in the process of work sometimes you need electrical tape or heat shrink tubes, you may need sandpaper, pliers.
The first difficulty faced by those wishing to repair the iron on their own is disassembly. This is far from simple and obvious. The easiest way is to remove the back panel. There are several screws that are visible and which are difficult to unscrew. In addition to screws, there may be latches. So, having unscrewed all the visible fasteners, we pry the cover with the tip of a screwdriver or an old plastic card, separate the cover from the case.
Under it, a terminal block is found to which the cord is attached. If there are problems with the cord, you can not disassemble the iron further. But if everything is fine with the cord, you will have to disassemble it further, and this may cause problems.
In some irons - Philips (Philips), Tefal (Tefal) there are also bolts under the lid. We unscrew them too. In general, if we see fasteners, we remove them.
Removing the back cover is the first thing to do when disassembling the iron
As each manufacturer develops its own design, and it often changes from model to model. Therefore, difficulties arise. But there are several points that are found in almost any manufacturer.
Immediately you need to remove the temperature regulator dial and the steam supply buttons for which you need to hold them in your fingers and pull them up. The buttons may have latches, so you might need something thin to squeeze them out a little - you can pry them off with a screwdriver.
To disassemble the iron, you need to remove the buttons
Some irons, such as the Rowenta, as in the photo, have bolts on the handle (found in some Scarlet models). If there are any, we unscrew them. A screw is also hidden under the removed buttons, we also unscrew it. Then remove the top plastic parts. They are usually fastened with latches. To make it easier to remove them, you can put a knife blade or a piece of plastic (plastic card) into the lock.
There are usually some bolts under the covers. Having unscrewed them, we continue disassembling until the body and sole are separated. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give more precise recommendations - too different designs are. What can be advised - to act slowly and carefully. And a few videos on how to disassemble irons of different brands.
Failure of the electrical cord is a fairly common type of breakdown. With such damage, the iron may not turn on at all or work in fits and starts, the sole may not heat well. The cord can bend, curl, the insulation is damaged at the bend, some wires can be frayed completely or partially. If there is such damage, it is better to replace the cord, regardless of whether it is the cause or not. In any case, all places with damaged insulation must be insulated.
In case of any damage, any repair of the iron begins with an inspection of the cord. To accurately determine whether it is normal or not, you need to ring it. To do this, simply remove the back cover. The terminal block will become available, to which the cord is connected. You will need a tester or multimeter. We put it in the dialing mode, we press one probe to one contact of the plug, with the second we touch one of the wires on the block. When touching the "correct" wire, the multimeter should emit a squeak. This means that the wire is intact.
Checking the integrity of the power cord
The color of the insulation of the conductors can be any, but yellow-green is necessarily grounding (it must be checked by installing the probe on a small metal plate at the bottom of the plug). The other two are connected to the pins of the plug. Here one of these two wires should ring with the pin to which you pressed the multimeter probe. We repeat the same operation with another pin.
For complete confidence in the serviceability of the cord, you need to wrinkle / twist it during the dialing. Especially in places where there are insulation problems. If the squeak from such actions is interrupted, it is better to replace the cord. It also needs to be replaced if one or both pins do not ring. You may be lucky and you will not need further repairs to the iron.
If the iron does not heat up at all, the heating element may have burnt out. If this is the case, then it is worth buying a new iron, as the replacement will cost almost the same amount. But first of all, you need to make sure that it is the heating element that is to blame.
These are the outputs of the heating element of the iron
In order to check the heating element, we get to the very sole of the iron. On it, closer to the back, there are two outputs of the heating element. We transfer the multimeter to the position of resistance measurement (up to 1000 Ohm), we take measurements. If the numbers on the display are of the order of 25o Ohm, then the heating element is normal, if more, it burned out. As already mentioned, if the heating element burns out, it is not worth repairing the iron - it is more profitable to buy a new one.
The thermostat looks like a plate with a group of contacts and a protruding plastic pin, on which the disc is then put on.
This is the thermostat on the iron
Two contacts fit the plate. We install the multimeter probes on them and check the operability (call them). In the "off" position, the sound of the multimeter should disappear; when turned on and turned to any position, it should continue to sound.
The damage may consist in the fact that in the "on" position there is still no contact - then the iron does not heat at all. There may be a different situation - it is not switched off by the regulator and / or does not respond to the position of the regulator. Both reasons are in contacts. And, most likely, they are burnt.
In the first case, carbon deposits can interfere, which can be cleaned off by sticking a piece of sandpaper with a fine grain between the contacts and a couple of times and "sliding" along the contacts. If there is no sandpaper, you can use a nail file, but you must act carefully - the temperature settings depend on the bending of the plates. So you can't bend them too much.
In the second case - if the iron does not turn off - the contacts may have burnt - melted. Repairing the iron in this case consists in trying to separate them. But this trick is rarely successful. The way out is to replace it.
Thermostat from a different angle
There may be another point: when falling, the contacts could somehow interlock. When the soleplate of the iron is heated, the bending thermoplate presses on the contact groups, but the contacts cannot open. The result is the same - the iron does not turn off when heated. Repairing the iron is also similar - we are trying to return mobility to the plates, trying not to bend them. If it doesn't work, we change it.
A thermal fuse is installed in approximately the same area as the thermostat. It stands in case of overheating of the sole of the iron - it burns out if the iron heats up to dangerous temperatures. Usually a protective tube is put on this fuse and most often it is white.
Iron repair: fuse and its continuity
Find contacts, call. In the normal state, the fuse "rings", if it is blown out - silence. If desired, you can move the tube, ring it directly - there may be a break / burnout of the connecting wire. If the fuse is blown, you solder it, look for a similar one and install it in place.
It is not worth excluding the thermal fuse from the circuit - it will save you from fire in case of problems with the thermostat: it will simply burn out and the iron will not work. And even though the iron will require repair, your home will be safe.
If almost no steam comes out of the iron, and there is water in the container, most likely the holes are clogged with salts. You can restore your performance with a simple trick. Pour water and vinegar (ordinary, table) into a bowl with low boron (a frying pan is suitable). One glass of vinegar per liter of water. The second recipe is for 250 ml of boiling water, 2 teaspoons of citric acid. In the dishes with the prepared liquid, lower the disconnected iron. The liquid should cover the sole.
Cleaning the steam vents on the iron
Put the container with the iron on fire, bring to a boil, turn it off. Wait until it cools down. Warm up again. This can be repeated 3-4 times. Until the salts dissolve.
Sometimes water stops coming out of the spray arm. Most likely, this is due to the fact that the tube is disconnected. In this case, the repair of the iron consists in the fact that it is necessary to disassemble the panel on which the injection buttons are fixed and reinstall all the tubes and wires.
The second way to descale the iron is to disassemble it completely so that only one soleplate remains. Cover the sole with tape so that water does not seep out, but you can also put it in a dish. Pour inside the sole hot water with vinegar or citric acid, stand to cool, drain, pour over again. Continue this way until you are satisfied with the result. Then rinse with water and collect.
Similar materials
Working principle and internal organization iron, at first glance, does not raise any special questions: the electric current leads to the heating of the nichrome spiral, which, in turn, transfers heat to a massive metal plate - the sole. But how do you adjust the heating temperature, steam or spray water? Modern iron models can be equipped with a variety of scale prevention systems, electronic components and controls, the presence of which significantly complicates the design.
It is quite difficult to figure out the device of a modern iron on your own, but possession of such information can help in eliminating minor malfunctions. Given the high complexity of the iron design, for serious repairs (replacing the spiral or electronic components, cleaning the pumps supplying water, restoring the electrical wire), it is recommended to contact specialized workshops, since the operability of the device after unauthorized intervention is not guaranteed.
Such a familiar household appliance as an iron is a rather complicated device from a technical point of view. The iron circuit includes several dozen elements, the main ones of which are a heating element, a thermostat, an overheating protection system, as well as a variety of regulators, indicators and other electronic components, without which it is impossible to imagine the normal operation of a modern iron.
How does a modern iron work, many models of which can be seen on store shelves today? First of all, the following components should be distinguished in its structure:
Considering each of the elements separately, special attention should be paid to the internal structure and the principle of operation of the parts, since such information makes it possible to determine the cause of breakdowns and ways to eliminate them.
Although at first glance, a wire for an iron is no different from a similar element of other household appliances, in its appearance and the internal structure, some peculiarities can be traced: first of all, the wire has a fabric braid, which prevents chafing of the polymer sheath during ironing.
It is difficult to imagine any other device that is subjected to the same heavy loads as an iron, because when using it, you have to twist the cable several times in different directions, stretch it, bend it at inconceivable angles, and even inadvertently fold it into a knot.
An ordinary cord would not be able to withstand such manipulations for long, while an iron wire does an excellent job with its duties for several years or even decades.
The secret lies precisely in the fabric braid: it several times reduces the coefficient of friction between different sections of the cable, and also increases its rigidity. As an additional element, giving maximum reliability to the system, a plastic stopper is used, which is located near the base of the iron and is designed to prevent possible kinks of the wire.
The inner part of the iron wire is represented by three cores, one of which is used as a ground. This safety measure makes it possible to reduce the risk of electric shock in the event of a short circuit and to extend the life of the device.
Most modern models of irons are equipped with two buttons located in the front of the device: one of them is responsible for supplying steam, and the other makes it possible, if necessary, to moisten the fabric by spraying water through a special hole located on the iron spout. The transformation of water into steam takes place in a separate chamber, which is equipped with powerful heating elements. After pressing the button, the liquid under pressure enters the chamber, where it instantly heats up, and is distributed through the perforations on the sole of the iron.
The use of untreated tap water often leads to excessive formation of carbonate deposits on the surface of the heaters, which naturally entails a decrease in heating efficiency and the failure of heating elements. The appearance of traces of rust, dirt or scale chips on the fabric during ironing is an alarm signal that it is time to pay extra attention to cleaning the iron.
The sole, as the main component of the iron, largely determines not only the quality of ironing, but also the overall level of comfort when using the device. Manufacturers of modern irons equip them with teflon, ceramic or even sapphire soles - such technical solution allows you to reduce the coefficient of friction between the sole and the fabric, thereby facilitating the ironing process. Inexpensive iron models are equipped with an aluminum sole, the main drawback of which is considered to be the excessive pliability of the metal, which often leads to noticeable scratches.
Inside the sole there is a heating element - a nichrome spiral, complemented by ceramic rings that evenly distribute heat and help keep it for a long time. The heating temperature is set by a separate thermostat, the main function of which is to timely turn off the power supply in accordance with the specified mode.
Using the iron on different types tissue assumes careful selection of a suitable temperature regime.
In most cases, ironing requirements are indicated by clothing manufacturers on a separate label that is sewn into the folds of the product.
Heating is adjusted by setting the iron rotary wheel to the required position, corresponding to the permissible ironing parameters. When the temperature reaches its maximum value, the contact opens, as a result of which the voltage supply is interrupted.
How is the regulator disconnected? Electrical circuits irons assume the presence of a special element - a bimetallic plate, which consists of two parts made of metals with different coefficients of thermal expansion. When heated, the metal deforms, and the differences in properties component parts the plates lead to slight deformation, as a result of which the plate is pulled up and stops contacting the electrical circuit. A similar principle of operation is used not only in irons, but also in kettles, relays for disconnecting boilers and other heating elements.
There are two types of iron with a steam generator, at least significant. The first is a device with a built-in reservoir and a steam generation system. The second is models with a free-standing tank. It contains not only a container with a liquid, but also heaters and a steam flow control system. The reservoir is connected to the iron with steam pipes.
The steam generator is a rather dangerous device. For household appliance the risk of emergencies is unacceptable. Therefore, in the design of the generator, a whole a range of safety devices... The unit, built-in or housed in a free-standing tank, consists of the following parts:
In inexpensive models, everything works quite simply. In order to ensure an even supply of steam with constant energy consumption by the heaters, the steam generator unit is equipped with a dispenser. It works in tandem with a thermostat, supplying water as its volume is depleted during evaporation and stopping this process when the temperature drops.
In expensive irons with a steam generator, an emergency stop system in the form of a safety valve supplemented with manometers... In this version, the unit not only supplies steam with a constant flow more stable, but also provides greater safety.
There are two types of steam stations. A simple option is gravity... Here, the liquid is fed directly into the heating zone. When it evaporates intensively, steam is formed, which is thrown out through the holes in the sole.
Advanced Design - Generators pump-action type. They heat the liquid in a separate tank, where it is supplied by a dispenser. The vapor generated during evaporation is discharged by a pump. This not only ensures a stable feed, but also a controlled high pressure jets.
Depending on the design, steam irons are designed for different purposes. Gravity models are not able to provide a high, controlled quality of the final ironing result. But their price tag and General characteristics attractive to housewives dealing with a small amount of linen. When you need an ideal, consistently good ironing result for large volumes of things, you simply cannot do without a more expensive pump model.
Professional iron with pump-type steam generator
The specific algorithm for handling the steam generator is always described in the instructions for the model. It is worth remembering that there is a danger of using this device, which simultaneously works with high temperature and pressure. Therefore, the manufacturer's recommendations should not be ignored. The general algorithm of actions looks like this:
The iron is not immediately ready for use. The heating time of the first portion of water to 160 degrees may differ. V simple models it is 2 - 2.5 minutes. The device is then ready for use.
Working pressure in the steam supply system is about 0.35 atm (value for conventional steam generators). During heating and operation of the device, the safety structure is constantly in place. It is represented by several components. There is an integrated overheating protection in each heating element... In the event of a heater breakdown or short circuit, an electrical fuse is triggered.
Boiler safety systems
Per temperature regime meets bimetallic thermostat... Its contact plate changes configuration when heated, making and breaking the circuit. If none of the above measures works, steam is released through the safety valve in the lid. This is a potentially dangerous phenomenon, but it helps prevent other high risk in the form of rupture of the case by pressure and the release of a huge amount of superheated liquid over a large area.
All irons have a basic set of functions. This is not to say that all devices are the same. Some models can perform more operations, others are limited only to the basic list.
An iron with a steam generator has heaters and a water treatment zone, a pressure vessel. Therefore, in order to ensure fire safety all models have a built-in automatic shutdown system. It is built on the simplest gyroscope. The iron switches off:
The iron will turn itself off when idle on a horizontal surface
The thermostat performs two functions at once. This is one of the parts of the iron's overall safety system, and at the same time the main function. The thermostat sets the heating level of the sole... The unit works simply: upon reaching the set temperature, it breaks the voltage supply circuit to the heating elements, and when it decreases, it closes again. 
The simplest irons can only supply steam. More complex functions have two. At the push of one button, a stream of steam is delivered. On the second - the iron starts spray hot water through the spout for handling heavily wrinkled fabric.
More complex models have steam boost. This is an extremely intense jet. At this time, the device quickly consumes water from the heating zone. Depending on the capacity of the latter and the power of the heaters, the duration of operation in the steam boost mode may be more or less.
Steam and water spray buttons
It should be understood that during the pauses in the supply of steam, the liquid remains inside the nozzles on the sole. While the iron is in use, the amount is low. But if you turn it off, the whole liquid condenses... And on the next ironing, drops of water can fly out when steam is supplied.
The anti-drip system serves two purposes:
The models with the anti-drip system use a shortened steam path from the generation zone to the holes in the sole. All with one goal: to minimize water build-up in the absence of heating.
Anti-drip system helps prevent water leakage from the holes in the sole
The vertical steaming irons have distinctive features constructions. This is the position of the heating elements, and the location of the heating zone, and the length of the steam path before ejection from the sole. The flow is less than in impact mode. But more intense than normal work.
With vertical steaming comfortable to iron delicate fabric... Indeed, in this mode, the iron may not touch its surface. You can also iron things that cannot or are difficult to remove. For example, blackout curtains.
Iron breakdowns are mainly associated with improper operation, sharp drops voltage or insufficient tightness of the water compartment, from which moisture seeps onto the electronic components of the device. Determining the cause of a malfunction, given the significant design complexity of modern irons, can be difficult, but there are a number of typical signs that shorten the range of searches:
In order for the iron to serve you as long as possible and not cause problems with its work, you should follow a few simple tips:
The main principle of operation of the irons is the uniform heating of the metal sole and the distribution of water vapor in the thickness of the fabric. By observing simple precautions, you can not only significantly extend the life of the equipment, but also avoid most common breakdowns.
The iron is one of the most essential electrical appliances in the house, but in it, as in any other item household appliances, malfunctions happen. For example, you plugged in the appliance, waited a while and realized that the iron was still cold. You can cope with this problem yourself, without resorting to the help of the service center specialists. Below we will consider the most common reasons why your favorite iron does not heat up, and give advice on how to fix this breakdown.
In some situations, you can understand what the problem of lack of heating is without even disassembling the unit. If you are convinced that the iron is plugged in, there are no power outages in the house, and the light indicator on the iron body is on, it means that damaged heating element iron (in other words, "ten"). Unfortunately, in this case, the forecasts are unfavorable.
The fact is that the heating element is connected directly to the sole of the iron. If the fasteners are one-piece, then most likely you will have to contact a specialist and replace the entire sole, or buy a new iron. If the heating element is attached with lugs, then theoretically it can be detached from the sole and then sand the damaged contacts with sandpaper.
If the problem is in the heating element, it is very difficult to solve it on your own, and it will be more profitable to purchase a new electrical appliance, because the replacement of the part in this case will be expensive.
However, this is far from the only version according to which the iron does not heat. Let's try to diagnose other malfunctions:
If you have never disassembled electrical devices then it can be a big puzzle. In current models, not a single mount, screw or connector is visible from the outside. What to do in this case and how to disassemble the structure? Indeed, in the Soviet, grandmother's irons, everything was arranged much simpler and more understandable.
Take a close look at the body of your electric assistant. Today, the design of electrical appliances is arranged in such a way that all elements, parts, are connected to each other. hidden latches... Find a flat head screwdriver and gently pry the latches. Next, you will find the very screws that hold the main parts of the iron together.
Remember that the disassembled iron must never be plugged into a power outlet.
Some popular manufacturers of household appliances, such as Tefal, Philips, Brown, often use screws with branded, not quite standard heads. Here you will have to suffer a lot and choose the right screwdriver, or even contact the manufacturer's service center.
In order to prevent malfunctioning of the iron, it is best to take care of careful care in advance.
So, we found out the main reasons why your iron does not turn on or does not heat up, and gave ways to fix this problem. Whatever perfect technologies the manufacturers come up with (touch control, automatic steam supply, water supply, lack of wires), the causes of the malfunction are universal for almost all irons. This may be a poor contact of the power cord, a malfunction of the heating element, a breakdown of a fuse, or banal dusting of the contacts. If you were unable to diagnose yourself, contact qualified assistance, but do not forget that repair is an expensive process, and in some serious cases it will be economically more profitable to purchase a new electrical appliance.
