Anyone who regularly uses points has come across that any trouble happens to them. From a weakened screw, fastening the cauldron to a rim, to a broken rim. And if even a child can cope with the first, then in all other cases, the advice of experienced people, a certain snap and tool, as well as the skills of working with this tool will be required. About which tools and equipment will be needed for repair, the repair tips for a particular part of the glasses will be described in below.
First, I would like to dwell on the reason for the occurrence of certain breakdowns. As a rule, there are two such reasons:
Fix the majority of the breakdown of the rim itself is quite accessible to the home master.
The following tools and materials may be required to repair the rim:
Right of the glasses can be performed from metal or plastics. Similarities in their repair are completed on the restoration of the performance of the hinge. Therefore, let's start with it.
Most often, the holes are broken in the hinge, which is inserted by the screw fastening caresses to the rim. It even happens that such a screw is lost. Such a trifle in the reserve is unlikely to be found. Although the stacking owner can strain either its analogue of points that are not subject to recovery, or see where such coins can be found. For example, in a broken calculator. If it turned out that a thread is shot down, it can be restored by screwing the screw slightly larger diameter. Being made from the more solid metal, he will restore a shot down thread, and the hinge will hold firmly.
For greater reliability, the end of this screw can be sprinkled. If the suitable screw could not be chosen, then the output is only one. Pick up a piece of copper or steel wire, insert it into the eyes, trim from both ends leaving the stock of 0.3-0.5mm and split both ends with a small hammer. Well will fit the brass pin with the head at one end d \u003d 0.3-0.5mm. When operating the opposite end, it is broken and give this part of the hinge a neat look.
This occurs in plastic frames. The problem can be solved, going the most obvious at first glance, by grabbing the rim in place of the split. But! Pick up super glue is difficult enough. It should also be remembered that there is a large load at the break point. Therefore, experts advise to reduce the load by gluing the lens around the perimeter of the window before gluing the place of fault.
For more reliable gluing the rim itself and lenses with it, for some time it is tightly pulling this place with a harsh thread or fishing line. This method is very successful if the frame is broken in two places. Plastic lens before applying glue onto her ends from both sides to cry with scotch. The composition of such glue includes a solvent that can damage the lens. The place of the junction of the broken parts after drying the glue to clean and stall.
If scratches are noticeable, you can cover this place with a thin layer of colorless nail polish. It will be worth the junction, if the broken parts of the rim are welded by the method of hot welding. Plastic characteristics allow you to do. But the melted place of the junction will look inactively. It will be very difficult to give them a commodity.
This is typical for glasses with a thin metal rim. There may be two reasons here.
Or weakened the fastening of the screw connecting two parts of the lens window. In this case, it will be enough to tighten the screw until it stops the hourly scolding, and the opposite end to ruin. Or made from a fine metal frame wounded and in this form is not able to hold the lens on the spot. Here you need to disassemble the rim and using a lens as a blank to straighten the frame for its contour. This work must be made as carefully as possible. Metal, as a rule, very thin, frequent and sharp bends can lead to irreversible consequences. After that, since the lens was extracted from the rim, it is possible to put it on the glue for reliability, to pull the screws and quickly remove the excess glue.
ATTENTION! Council of the specialist. After disassembling the rim, clean the inner perimeter of the lenses of the lenses from the dirt accumulated there during the use of the glasses.
Immediately before work, you need to prepare some devices. First of all, make the so-called conductor. This is a thin wooden plate with a length of a little less than the width of the glasses and the width of equal height of the rim. In order to avoid scratches on lenses, clean this plate with a thin soft cloth. To do this, you can use a wooden ruler.
During the work, a drill with a drill is possible smaller diameter. You need to think about how to fix it motionless. In this case, the hands will be free to perform other works. Before starting work, the place of fault on both halves of the rim is carefully deguted.
One half of the rim is fixed on the conductor using a conventional stationery. The second half is tightly pressed to the first and in exactly the same way fixed.
Before proceeding with gluing, you need to make sure that all parts are fixed reliably and in the process of work will not move. After that, the glue challenges in the place of fault at the same time that air bubbles would not be formed. Then remove the excess glue and for some time leave points alone in order to give glue to dry.
The next step is to fit the optimal distance in both halves of the rim near the place of fault to drill two through holes from the top ends of the rim. In one of them with the help of the needle, a regular 120 cm long thread is inserted twice. Then this thread is in the second hole, then it is stretched again in the first. This procedure is repeated two to three times. No longer allow the diameter of the drilled hole. Thread at each turn is stretched as much as possible. The remaining ends are bred in different directions and are fixed with scotch on the handles of the glasses. Threads that perform the role of the bandage are labeled with glue.
ATTENTION! Council of the specialist. Some advise to clean the place of fault by sandpaper. It is unlikely to do it. After all, a spill, not a smooth cut. The coincidence of the teeth and the collapsion will contribute to a stronger compound of both parts of the rim.
Following this, one of the ends of the thread and neatly, firmly, the turn to the turn of the gluing is covered with the arms of the glasses. By fixing this thread at the opposite end of the bandage, the bay of the bay of their glue is made. Following the same operation with the second end of the thread. At the same time, the SCOS goes in the opposite direction.
Such a cruciform winding makes the connection more durable. In both cases, such a layer of winding should be done two or three, without forgetting to heat each layer of glue.
First of all, with the help of booths and the appliance, you should get rid of the remnants of the hinge element in the frame. Or a good heated with a powerful soldering iron, this chip tweezers remove it from the rim and stick the vacant place.
Then, from a copper or steel wire with a diameter of the appropriate size of the leaving in the hannik, the hinge element to bring the loop with an inner diameter equal to the fastening elements of the hinge screw. After the desired diameter of the resulting loop is chosen using miniature passage with round sponges to give the workpiece, the look of the Greek letter of Omega.
The next step is to install the resulting hinge element in place. Taking the prepared preparation of the miniature tweezers to press it at the installation site and heat the powerful soldering iron. In the process of heating, the loop will gradually deepen in the rim to the desired depth. When will be achieved the desired depthThe soldering iron is cleaned, the plastic will freeze, and the looper firmly strengthened in the frame.
Finishing work remain. The irregularities formed in the process of fastening the eyes can be removed using the same soldering iron. Place to stick with a fine-grained skin. Brushed after grinding glitter can be restored using a colorless nail polish.
The reasons for the divergence of hangers for metal and plastic frames of glasses are different. The total only one - the holes in the hinge connections after a long operation. The liquidation of these flaws was said in the first paragraph. When operating points in a plastic frame, one of the reasons for the divergence of hangers is that the faces are erased in places of their contact with a rim. As a result, the angle of divergence of hangers exceeds the installed 100 degrees.
Here it is possible to solve the problem if you restore the one of the surfaces by one of the surfaces by catching or gluing a thin layer of plastic. You can use glue, which after drying will purchase a well-known hardness. After that thoroughly, these inserts are stuck, customizing them to desired size Thick.
Of course, when these inserts do not follow, you should not cut them on the area exactly. They can be adjusted at the end of work on the sticker inserts. Metal frames have different ways to attach towers to the rim. There are such when the towers is attached to the component of a single integer with the rim bracket.
It happens that, under the influence of rough strength, these brackets can be bent into any direction. In this case, they can be returned to its original position with the help of miniature passage.
Housings break only in cases unless the metal rod is not used as the basis. As a rule, such towers are made of sufficiently thick plastic. Therefore, it is possible to connect the broken parts using a thread band by the method described above.
Given the width and thickness of the haniest part of it can be drowning with the appropriate in order to put a bandage in the resulting groove. In this case, it will not be strongly highlighted on the surface of the evought.
Another way is that it is possible to drill holes in the center of both fragments, in which the metal pin can be inserted with a length of 15-20 mm. After using this pin, both parts of the towel will be docked the place of their connections to lubricate the superclay.
Plastic rim and towers can be deposited only under the influence of high temperature. They are enough elastic to preserve the shape of bending under the influence of force. So, it is possible to give them your previous form in the same way - heat them and exacerbate them into its original position. Heat until the desired softness can be in hot water - boiling water using a pair of passatizes. Plastic, from which points are made, well succumb to heating and this operation usually passes successfully.
After the fixed item quickly warms up it from the water. Handboard put on smooth surface And add to something heavy to complete cooling. The rim is to give the desired bending and keep in this position with the hands, too, until complete cooling. It can only begun on the place of the jumper between the lenses windows. This should make basic efforts.
The deformations of metal frames and towers can be corrected by mechanical exposure to passatsia or simply by hand.
Did you break the glasses? You can attribute them to the workshop or buy new ones, and you can repair the glasses with your own hands, using materials and tools that will be found in every home. Our instruction will tell you how to fix plastic glasses.
1. To repair the glasses, clean, skill and degrease the plastic in the fled place.
2. Prepare the conductor (a device that allows you to fix the parts of the rim in a certain position) for fixing points.
As a conductor, you will serve a wooden rail or an old ruler. Cut the rail of such a length so that its length is slightly smaller than the width of the glasses.
Wrap the wooden blank paper or soft cloth. It is necessary in order to protect the lenses from contact with the surface of the conductor.
3. Secure the glasses on the conductor. Attach a fragment of the rim to the rail and wrap the stationery elaborate several times.
Pre-make sure that the rubber bands are clean and not blurring the lenses of the glasses. Then attach the second half of the glasses, sprinkling it well to the first. Take advantage of the stationery elastic band.
Align the points of the points relative to each other, make sure that they come into contact.
4. Apply glue to the place where glasses broke. This is the most responsible stage of repair, so everything needs to be done very carefully.
5. Drill holes for fastening a ribbon band. After the glue is oxide, you need to drill in a rim of one hole on each side of the fault.
Put glasses on a soft cloth. Drill very carefully so that the connection does not collapse. Try to do holes not too close and not too far from each other.
In our example, they are placed too close.
Ribbon bandage is the usual thread stretched into drilled holes And tight wound over the glued joint. Bandage is needed to enhance the connection.
Tighten the thread into a thin needle. The length of the threads folded twice should be about 60 cm.
First, stretch the thread as many times through the drilled holes. If the needle no longer passes, you can begin to wind threads on the handle. Wash the thread tight, but do not overdo it in order not to break the glasses again.
6. Apply glue to bandage. Remove the needle air bubbles if they are formed. Let the thread soak and remove the excess glue with a cotton wand. Give glue to dry for 15 minutes, cut sticking ends.
7. Take a long thread, one of her end stick to the painted scotch tape.
Fully wrap my glasses align.
Enclose the free end of the rim.
Treat the resulting connection with glue, flow and let it dry a little.
8. Mix thread in the opposite direction. After the glue is dry, free the end of the thread, which you fixed the painted scotch and wrap it to the handle, moving in the opposite direction. As a result, the upper and lower loops should be crucial - so the connection will be as strong as possible.
Repeat the threads again and let it dry. Cut ends.
Do not use points within 24 hours so that the glue is finally missing and grabbed.
Glasses that are constantly worn are most often found in extreme conditionsAnd therefore sooner or later damage is caused. In this case, it is customary to apply to the repair shop, paying considerable amounts for the restoration of the rim. But it turns out, it is possible to repair the glasses with your own hands, if you first deal with their device and explore the basic recovery techniques. In some cases, we need a soldering glasses, but often you can do without it.
Basic constructive element, fastening handles and glasses, is a hinge node that can have two versions.
One of them is mugging through a conventional screw connection. A more complex design is execution, in which a special spring-loaded mechanism is used for fastening, called Flex.
In the simplest case, when the malfunction is associated with the screw turning from the attachment node - it is enough just to return it to the place when using a clock screwdriver or a well-pointed knife. Soldering here is not needed.
If there are flexs, the repair points is significantly complicated, since the fixing screw in this case passes through the mobile bar, and it is drawn into the cavity of the awesome.
At the same time, the two mounting holes that coincide in the normal state, after this breakdown, due to the action of the spring, they lose alone, so the screw can not be returned to the place. The only possible way out of this position is to shift the bar back to your place and screw the fastening screw into the hole.
To return the bar, the easiest way is to use a seboard or needle, which allow you to cling to a small ledge, going beyond the habit of glasses. For this operation, two hands are usually lacking, so you will need either assistant help or small vices (clamp).
In the second case, the towing housing is first clamped, after which you can try to screw the screw into place. In the event that the material of the bump is very soft - it is advisable to lay them with a piece of leather.
If the screw is damaged or lost - it can be replaced by any suitable and thread. If the diameter is miserably, it is screwed into the mounting hole, thereby cutting a new thread. You can also use a piece of copper wire of a suitable cross section, which, after installation in the hole, is blocked from both sides.
Some glasses sushin (handkah) breaks at the fastening of a hinge to the flex itself, which forces the choice of one of two solutions: a complete replacement or repair. Since it is possible to change this part with glasses with glasses - consider the device of the node and the order of its recovery in more detail.
With a careful study of the structure, it can be seen that from the end of the hack there is a rectangular groove, which includes a steel strip thickness of about 1 mm. It breaks usually with damage to this part of the points and needs to be repaired.
A possible version of its recovery is the connection in a reversible location by riveting.
As such a part, a sewing pin from brass with a head with a diameter of about a millimeter can be used to drill holes in the connected parts. When marking, one of them is planned in the center of the convicts (arms) with the calculation so that it coincides with the central line of the strip fixed in the hinge. Only after the attachment of this part can be clearly stored, and then drill holes in both combined halves.
In some models, lenses have a hard fastening of half the rim, and their open part is held in the rim from the fishing line, recessed in a special groove. This method of fixing the lenses makes glasses more elegant in appearance and convenient for wearing due to a decrease in the weight of the rim.
But for all these advantages, it is necessary to pay the inconvenience that they are easily breaking in the event of a negligent relationship. Here, as well as when repairing flexs, the following two options are possible:
In the latter case, you should not be upset and immediately contact the workshop, because such a fault is easily eliminated with your own hands. It is possible to solve this problem with the help of a solid fishing line with a cross section of 0.8 mm, from the shift of which a piece of approximately ten-centimeter length is cut off.
After removing the old forests, make sure that the ends new billet. Easily pass to locking holes, and if not, then slightly sharpen them (cut off the oblique line). If in this case the fishing line does not pass into the holes - it is necessary in any way to expand them in any way (sometimes it is necessary to even take this part of the attachment).
After the ends are inserted into the holes, and the size is measured strictly along the length of the lens arc, it is necessary to warm their ends of the soldering iron, then securely fix the optics in the frame. This is the case of the application of soldering for repair points.
If the frame is metallic, and burst the metal of the lens holder, then the soldering can be applied to repair. The holder solder using rosin (for stainless steel and has become better than chloride zinc), and the solder is chosen or tin-lead or in accordance with the features of the rim metal.
There are often cases when the glasses are broken into two parts one of the arms, and the breakdown occurs in the metal joint zone and the plastic tip, fixed on the pin by means of a screw. In this case, of course, it is possible to use the method of laser soldering of metals, but at home this option is difficult to implement.
It is much easier to use a brass lining of the corresponding shape and a thickness of 1 mm that connects both sewing at the point of contact of the half.
Two holes are drilled in the lining, and with each side there are fixing bends. The size of one of the holes coincides with the embossed recesses in the openwork pattern of the metal part, the second is made arbitrary. After assembling the handle in a single whole, it acquires quite suitable for wearing.
The custody of the alignment can be restored by the same methods as convulsions. However, in this case, it will be wiser to purchase a new one, not very expensive frame suitable for the color and structure of the metal. It will not be much difficult to rearrange it instead of the old broken part.
In the event of a breakdown of a metal rim rim, a serious repair will be required, since this place is experiencing strong deformation loads.
The simplest solution is the option of gluing a metal rim directly to lenses of glasses. At the same time, the gluing area increases significantly, which ensures the necessary strength of the compound formed.
For these purposes, the well-known brand is optimal universal glue "Contact" whose strength over time is only increasing. To eliminate glue to plastic lenses on both sides of the connecting seam, you need to stick through the scotch strip. If lenses are glass, then you can do without it, since glue from glass rubs enough simply.
For soldering rims, points or rim from thermoplastic material will require a soldering iron or a similar heating device. They are necessary for heating plastic in the bond zone of broken parts, joined in the molten state. This is not a soldering in the full sense of the word, since the solder does not apply here.
You can do without soldering devices, if you use dichloroethane or benzene, melting plastic to the desired state at normal temperatures.
Regardless of the selected method of heating, softened to the desired state of the rim is tightly pressed one to the other and are kept some time sufficient to obtain a reliable diffusion connection.
Method of soldering laser refers to the category newest technologiesallowing you to perform very subtle repair of metal frames of any form. The locality of the heating of the contact zone allows you to maintain adjacent areas in an undeformed form.
The restoration of parts by a laser method is carried out using a special microscope, which affects the cost of all repair operations.
You can solder in this way both in vacuo and outdoors; Moreover, the use of fluxes in this case is not at all necessary. When soldering points, it is preferable to use the pulsive mode of operation of the laser device, using solders that correspond to the brand became a forehead or rim.
Professionals spend the soldering of titanium, composite and steel frames, know how to choose the right solder. Skay laser low power It may lead to the fact that parts of the points are broken after some time, so the choice of power of the device plays a big role.
In order to protect the glasses from the breakdown, you need to adhere to the following recommendations:
We also note that it is desirable to preserve the fears in non-working condition, without leaving points in a dangerous and unstable position.
Glasses can be easily damaged or break. So that after that I did not have to order them again you need to know how to fix the glasses at home, what instruments for this use and how to make it so that they serve even long enough.
In this article, we will consider all the ways to repair the glasses without resorting to the help of professionals.
Note! "Before you start reading an article, find out how Albina Guryva was able to defeat the breakdowns with his eyesight taking advantage of ...
Points have a lot of positive qualities, but, unfortunately, many of their species do not differ in strength and often break.
The breakdown occurs most often for two reasons:
The latter can be attributed to:
Most breakdowns are easy to eliminate at home using certain tools and materials. For repair points you will need:
There are several types of glue that can be used when repairing points. Next, we will analyze the main of them.
It uses dentists. You can purchase such glue in any pharmacy point.
Characteristics:
Important! Cook it only before direct use.
It is widely used for gluing a variety of materials. To make three components in the ratio of 10: 1: 3.
Glue is prepared as follows:
Use glue immediately after cooking, because After an hour and a half he hardens. It is painted in any color using a nitrocracy or a paste applied in ballpoints.
For its preparation you will need:
The volume ratio should be 60: 39.5: 0.5.
Cooking method:
It can be prepared in advance and store in glass vesselsUsing a fit plug.
Having at its disposal these tools and materials, you can easily and quickly repair points or get rid of damage to be discussed below.
You can execute this procedure in two ways:
To temporarily solve the problem associated with the transfer breakdown:
To repair the transfer, this method will be useful to you:
How to repair:
This method is only suitable for plastic frame glasses:
Important! In no case can not keep plastic frame right over fire.
The lost cord can be replaced in several ways.
When the screw is lost, which bonds an arc with an eye, repair the glasses with special set. It usually includes:
To repair, it is enough to install a screw into the appropriate hole, screw it and then break the tip.
Sometimes it is difficult to fit the desired screws on the temporal and front part. The reason for this is that the hinge inside the temporal area holds them. This situation is fixed as follows:
To solve this problem, you can use toothpicks:
Procedure:
In addition to wire, it is advisable to fasten the components of the glasses by the English pin (it is often fixed with labels with a price in stores). It is enough to insert it into the hole so that the hold of both parts in place.
Solve the problem with appeared deformations on glasses you can, applying:
You will be enough to apply a tool that is used in glass engraving on lenses. Due to its properties, it will remove the anti-reflective surface resistant to scratch (film) on plastic, not the touch of the lens itself. It is possible to use such a tool only for the repair of plastic lenses.
When removing scratches, it is not necessary to clean and polish lenses before reducing their thickness, as this will change the quality of refraction and will lead the optics into disrepair.
They will fill out small scratches. But when using wax, your glasses will deteriorate visibility and it will be necessary to use on a permanent basis after a certain time.
After processing points, one of the reagents you will need to polish lenses using a soft fabric that is designed to wipe the spectacle lenses.
To reduce the risk of scratches in the subsequent, follow several recommendations:
How to restore the broken part of the hinge compound that presses in the frame?
From the problem of diverging towers, other - glasses practically do not hold on the face. They manifest themselves in different ways depending on the material of the rim (metallic or plastic). But, there is also a common cause - the wells are cleared in hinge elements due to long-term use. How to get rid of the problem, was painted above.
One of the reasons, due to which the towers of plastic glasses are diverged - erasing the faces, where they come into contact with the rim. This is solved by restoring the erased part with:
In the case of metal rims, the tower will be attached to the bracket, which is one of the whole with a rim.
Such a problem is often observed with fast head movements. This problem is solved quite simple.
Step-by-step instruction:
Typically, such a breakdown happens in the absence of a metal base (rod) in tall plastic towers. To repair them you will need to take advantage:
Instruction:
Most often a plastic arc is split. This problem is solved by simply gluing the alignment of the rim, where the split appeared. However, for this it is necessary to choose suitable glue and this is a rather difficult task. Professionals are recommended to reduce the load on the site of the split and glue the lens itself to the rim arc.
For a small operation, you will need:
Procedure:
Due to such deformations, the glasses are very poorly fixed on the face. In plastic frames, this happens when exposed to them high temperatures. And since they are quite elastic, then this property can be used when repaired. That is, by heating, return them to their former shape.
Points are a very fragile optical tool. They are easily exposed to strain: rims break in different parts, ears are laid out, screws and lenses fall out. In order to return them to your former condition, you need to have a number of instruments and materials using it in repairs. And the duration of the use of repaired fixture directly depends on how carefully you will relate to it.
If there is no possibility to repair the points yourself, you can always contact professionals. Repair points are made in different cities, but best quality Possess repair workshops of large cities such as Moscow and St. Petersburg.
Glasses - This is an optical device that serves for the optical correction of human vision in the event of its deviation from the norm and protect the eyes from hazardous external influences.
For repair points you need a tool that rarely has at hand. If you do not have the opportunity to repair the glasses with your own hands, you can contact professionals that will repair them, and in case of impossibility of repair, you will help you with a choice of new ones.
If you just unscrewed the screw fastening of the glass or in the hinge of the towing towers (handles), even a child can cope with such a repair, it is enough to take a clock screwdriver or a knife with a sharp end and twist a screw, without applying more effort until it stops.
But if I broke the face of the face at the place of the portor, or the hanieted snapshed at the scene of the hinge, then such a breakdown of glasses is no longer easy, to repair the tools and knowledge of technology are needed.
In modern glasses, the attachment of the towers to the hinge is performed using the flex. This mechanism is a spring fixing towing (handcap) in a given position and gives the ability to push towers, in contrast to the standard angle 100˚ of ordinary glasses, at an angle of up to 160˚.
Right with flexoms eliminates the pressure on the head while wearing glasses and samples of the rim when removing points with one hand, so glasses with flexs serves longer and wear them more comfortable. But the harder the glasses are arranged, the greater the likelihood of their breakdowns.
If the fastening screw is not difficult in the hinge fastening of simple glasses, then in glasses equipped with florals, is not such a simple task, as it seems at first glance. When attaching an asshole, the screw passes through the movable flex bar, and if the screw is turned off, then the flex bar is drawn into the cavity of the towel and the mounting hole in the rim does not coincide with the hole on the hannik. It is impossible to spin the screw.
When analyzing the breakdown, everything became clear, you need to push the fox bar and screw the screw into place. The bar is easily advanced with a sewn or needle, if you turn them into a screw hole, but then the cord is uncomfortable. And otherwise, it seems and caught not for that. But if you carefully look at, then it turns out, there is a ledger in the bar, a ledger, for which it can be put forward. Only arises the problem of lack of hands. Third hand can be successfully served by vice.
The hannik is clamped into the sponges of the vice, if the material from which the handle is made soft, then it is necessary to lay a piece of skin between sponges of vice. But even with the help of vice, screwed the screw in the frame of the glasses is not easy, since it is necessary to hold the base of the rim and at the same time with this hand, with a small screwdriver to move the flex bar thus so that the holes are coincided. The second hand you need to insert into the combined holes of the screw and screw it. I got only from several attempts.
The native rich was lost, and had to screw the suitable diameter, came from the broken calculator. Before assembling points, you must first spin the new screw with the effort, thereby cutting a new thread. In order for the screw no longer unscrewed, I'm a little, from the exit side of it from the rim of the glasses, flattened.
If the suitable screw was failed to find, it can be replaced by a brass or steel rod of a suitable diameter, for fixation, sprinkling its ends as described below.
I got into repair of glasses, harednik (handkah) in which we were crushed at the fastening of the hinge to the flex.
The load on the site of the haul joint with a flex is large and repairing points with a superclay or epoxy resin would not provide a reliable connection. Only a mechanical method of repair remains.
In the end of the asshole glasses, there was a hole with a rectangular groove, and the correspondence part of the part included in this hole and the rim hinge was a narrow steel flat strip with a thickness of about 1 mm. The only possible reliable method of repair was the connection of parts using a rivet.
Rivets of industrial manufacture for performing such small repair can not be. But it went well as a rivet brass sewing pin with a metal head with a diameter of 0.7 mm. The pin size determined the diameter of the holes that must be drilled in the parts connected.
Before performing drilling, you need to make markup. The first hole should be drilled in the ruin (handickee), at a point at the calculation so that it passes through the center of the strip fixed in the rim hinge.
For this, the hannik must be clamped in the vice. Between the sponges of the vice, so as not to damage the coating of the towers, lay the skin pieces and the core to put the drilling point.
Next, in the hannik, you need to drill a hole. A household powerful drill hole with a diameter of 0.7 mm drill, without breaking the drill difficult, as it is impossible to feel the drill force on the drill due to the larger mass of the drill and this will lead to an imminent breakdown of the drill. For such work, a miniature drill is needed, for example as in a homemade mini boring machine.
It is also required to drill a hole in a flat plate, with which the tower is attached to the rim hinge. Before drilling, you need to outline the drilling point. For this, the plate is inserted until it stops in the groove of the tow, which is in its end and in this form, the assembly is clamped in the vice of the padded skin. The alignment of the glasses should take the position relative to the rim, corresponding to the balls on the head of the person.
The hole, previously drilled in the hannik, will serve as a conductor by inserting the drill into it, the hole in the plate is drilled. You need to drill very carefully, accompanying a slight effort, since the drill can be easily broken.
The holes are drilled, and you can proceed to the final stage of the repair of points, connecting the rivet. The flat plate is inserted until it stops in the groove of the tow, and the pin is done through the holes.
With the help of a plumbing pin from the opposite side of the head, shortening with such a calculation so that the protruding part was 0.2-0.3 mm height.
To end the repair, the protruding part of the pins flashes with a small hammer. To do this, you need a round head pin head to anvil and light blows, changing the angle, sprinkle a part of the pin protruding over the hannik.
If there is no small hammer, then you can collapse the pin and a big hammer, inflicting weak blows on the protrusion of the pin through the metal rod.
As you can see, the repair of points is complete, the connection of the riveting towers with the base turned out to be neat, which did not spoil the aesthetic appearance of the glasses.
While I repaired glasses, adjusting one hack in place, the second glasses broke and the second. I had to repair and it was repaired by the technology described. Now glasses after repair will serve for a long time, and it confirmed time. The technology of repairing glasses rivet is checked by me on several types of glasses, after repairing points in the place of connecting towers with the console, no longer broken.
A neighbor turned to me to try to repair his favorite glasses, since in a specialized workshop he refused to repair - advised to buy new ones.
I broke the handle of points in the place of the hinge and at first glance it seemed that it was impossible to repair the glasses. But if you think, you can always find a way to repair.
First you need to unscrew the screws and the broken part of the loop to glue with the help of the Super-glue "Contact" to the tow. I often use this glue to glue any cracked and broken parts. But in this case, the oil fault area and glue will not hold securely. Therefore, the details were braced mainly for the convenience of further repairs.
Next, the bracket was bent from the office paper, as shown in the photo and using heating by an electric soldering iron in the longitudinal direction of the hangeon. The middle of the bracket must pass along the crack line.
For the reliability of the compound was fused across towel the second bracket. In order not to burn your fingers and glue the bracket to the desired place of the asshole, it is convenient to hold it with a tweezers. The bracket is heated to a minute, it is not necessary to hurry. When the bracket is warm up to the melting point of plastic, it will easily enter it.
After the brackets are fused into the hannik, it will only remain to be crushed by the spoken plastic and cut off after cooling it with a knife of its surplus or thicker with fine-grained emery paper. If the bracket seemed on the surface, then it can be heat and drown deeper again.
Now the brackets are not visible, resistance to the breakdown after reinforcement by steel brackets of the towing became higher than it was. In this place, the glasses will no longer worry. With a great desire, the connection site can be polished by making it completely imperceptible.
Repair completed and now glasses began to look like new and with careful attitude last long. When I returned my glasses to a neighbor, he was very surprised that they managed to repair, but doubted whether the towing knob was broken in this place again. A month later, the socks began to ask how glue I glue glasses. After all, he did not know that the handling in the place of breakdown was reinforced with metal brackets.
They got into repair more glasses with a broken alley. But in this case, the hannik was intact, and the place of attachment of it on the rim was destroyed.
Housing hinge was made of brass, so it could not break. This breakdown is rather associated with the constructive flawlessness of the glasses, and not with the appeal.
The housing hinge was mounted in a rectangular hole made in a rim with a single self-pressing screw in the metal loop. When wearing glasses, the screw was slowly unscrewed, and the load on the plastic increased, so he worried. Ultimately, the self-tapping screw was completely twisted and lost, as a result, the arrangement fell out of the attachment.
Suitable in size screw was not found, so I had to apply the standard M1.5. To do this, a thread was cut into the hinge bar.
The plate on the rim for fastening the housing hub had a crack. But it was impractical to install a metal bracket for its amplification, since it was necessary not only to increase the plate, but also to increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe screw head support
Therefore, it was chosen ribbed in the circumference of the washer and fused into the plate by having warm the soldering iron. As a result, the support area of \u200b\u200bthe screw head on plastic has repeatedly increased, and the crack partially melted, which also increased its strength.
Next, the mating surfaces of the plates were lubricated by glue super-moment, the loop plate is inserted into a square hole of the base of the points and screw screws. At the same time, the awesome fragment from the rim was glued. It did not carry a load and therefore in strengthening its fastening the bracket was not necessary.
The next glasses are repaired with their own hands and the operation of them for several months confirmed the reliability of the repair performed.
In a semi-coded rim, the lenses on half are attached in the frame, and the rest of them holds them in the frame of the fishing rim, half-recessed in the fake (the groove passing along the entire length of the lens end). Thanks to this method of fastening lenses, the glasses have an elegant look and less weight, compared to the rim, especially if the lenses are installed plastic.
But for elegance, it is necessary to pay a more careful relationship during operation, as such a frame, compared with the rim, is less reliable. If you forget to shoot glasses and start shooting a piece of clothing through my head, it may well believe that the glass will fall out or drop out of the rim of the fishing rim as in the photo. If the lens fell out, but the fishing line remained reliably fixed in the semi-cable, then due to the elasticity of the fishing line, the lens can be installed in place. If the fishing line was disconnected from the rim, then the replacement of the fishing line is new.
But do not be upset and run into the workshop, such a breakdown of semi-coded glasses is not difficult to eliminate their own hands. For repair, there is enough ten centimeters of a transparent fishing line with a diameter of 0.8 mm. The fishing line can be asked for familiar fishermen or ask for fishing gear in any shop. I was cut off a half-meter for thanks.
First of all, at the beginning of the repair you need to remove the old fishing line from the rim. Usually enough with the effort of the fishing line to move there and here and it is stronner from the place of attachment. If its ends melted, then the fishing line can be cut. She will still do not need anyway.
After the release of the holes from the old fishing line, it is necessary to check whether it is well acquired for repairing a fishing line. To do this, it is necessary to bite off by side or cut off the formation of one of its ends, so that the end of the fishing line becomes sharp. So easier it will be inserted into the holes of the rim.
If the fishing line fails through the fastening hole of the rim, then it needs to be cleaned. It is best to make it with a mini drill with a drill with a diameter of 0.8 mm. But if there is no possibility, you can use a needle or thin selection, and the disintended stationery clip is suitable.
The holes in the semi-cable rim have the form of a cone, from the side of the lens diameters of them are 0.8 mm, and from the outer side 1.5 mm. In the photo it is clearly visible. Thus, melting the end of the fishing line can be securely secured in the frame.
At first, the fishing line is in a hole, which is in the noseopore, without lenses. Next, the end of the fishing line is melted with a soldering iron and quickly until the end of the fishing line hardened, it is drawn into the nose-resistance hole. It is necessary to draw slowly so that the fishing line will not jumped out of the hole.
If you have a soldering iron of high power, then you can wind up a few turns of any wire with a diameter of 1-2 mm copper, aluminum or steel. And already this improvised sting to warm up the fishing line. In the absence of a soldering iron, you can melt the line with a nail heated on the burner gas stove. In order not to burn a nail to hold the pliers. You can use for melting the fishing line with a sharp tip of the preheated electric car or at a thin end even a small flame of lighters.
After fixing one end of the fishing line in the noseopor, the lens and a fishing line is inserted, pulling into the hole from the towers side, stretches. Next, the fishing line is pressed with the fingers at the place of passage in the fuce of lenses, and is cut off so that its end spoke from the hole to a couple of millimeters. Next, the lens is removed, the second end of the fishing line is melted and after the cooling of its lens is installed in a semi-cable.
Speakers from the holes of the rim remnants of the molten fishing line must be cut off the flush with a sharp knife.
Glasses renovated and steel as new. It took less time to repair than reading this article, which I hope was useful for you.
Several years have passed, and the favorite glasses with a semi-coded rim on the fishing line as a result of a collision with a direct angle of the kitchen shelf cracked.
As can be seen in the photo, the rim broke into the glass installation zone in a narrow place. For its repair, gluing technology was applied with subsequent reinforcement of the place of fracturing with a metal bracket.
In the first step, it is necessary to glue a super-moment glue or similar, intended for gluing products from plastics. To do this, first apply a thin layer of glue on the inner side of the rim rim in contact with glass along its entire length. Next also apply a thin layer of glue to the end of the glass in contact with the rim.
After the gluing, a small gap between the glass and the noseopor was found. For the reliability of the gluing to this gap was covered with a small amount of soda and then satuated with glue.
After such gluing, the frame received sufficient strength, but for a higher strength of the compound, a metal bracket was installed, made from the stationery clips.
The bracket was sworn in rims of glasses using an electric soldering iron. In the photo, for clarity, the bracket is shown not yet completely recessed in plastics.
Ultimately, the bracket was recessed in plastic glasses completely, the place is strung out by sandpaper and is polished with felt. Repair trails have almost left.
In the same way, you can successfully repair plastic arms and cracked rims at the point of the rest.
I had to repair glasses with a plastic frame, in which one of the plastic glasses from the rim fell.
With a careful consideration, it turned out that the rim in the lower part cracked in half. This is one of the breakdowns of glasses, which can be eliminated on its own in a few minutes.
To do this, it is enough to lubricate the verge of cracks with super-glue and from the inside of the rim for a couple of centimeters to the side of the cracked place. Next, insert the glass into the rim, hard to squeeze it and keep it for a couple of minutes.
The rim of points in the place of the crack does not carry any power load, and therefore there is no need to reinforce the steel wire. Points are renovated, the appearance has not changed, and now with careful attitude last long.
I brought me glasses with a metal rim with a broken rim from the bridges, repairing which in the repair shop refused. The breakdown was really serious. Glue, even the strongest in this case, will not be kept, as the end area of \u200b\u200bthe rim in the fracture site was no more square millimeter.
I also thought immediately that this hopeless case and glasses could not be repaired, but after some time the idea came unexpectedly, how to do without welding metal. After all, you can repair the rim, gluing the broken metal rim directly to the lens of the glasses. The area of \u200b\u200bthe gluing surfaces will become large and, thus, there will be sufficient strength of the rim after repair as a whole.
For gluing the rim, the universal super-glue "Contact" is well suited. This glue is made on the basis of cyanoacrylate has great strengths of adhesive compound and is polymerized when contacting water in the air. The greater the humidity of the air, the faster the glue is frozen, so you can also glue the wet surfaces. The setting time of glue, depending on the humidity of the air, ranges from a few seconds to several minutes. Fully glue hardened per day.
By the way, not all homemade masters know that if you need to quickly close the crack or chip in solid materials, you can cook homemade putty, kneading super-glue with food soda.
The lenses of the glasses were plastic, and to protect them from hitting the optical surface of the glue, it was necessary on two sides around the perimeter of the lens to glue the scotch strips. It is undesirable to stick the entire lens surface with a whole piece of lenses, because after gluing it will be difficult, without damaging the optical surface of the lens, to rejuvenate. Surplus Scotch on the ends of the lenses is easy to remove with shallow sandpaper.
If the lenses are made of glass, you do not need to glue glove. Super glue is well softened with acetone, which is safe for glass. Therefore, to remove glue residues after repair from the optical surface of the lenses, it is enough to wipe them with a soft cloth moistened with this solvent.
Before gluing, it is necessary to think over all movements and stretch, installing the lens in the frame before applying glue. When the movements are worked out, you need to apply glue to the lens end, accurately insert it into place in the frame and pull the rim ring with your fingers for a few minutes. I could not do the photos of applying glue and installing the lenses, as it was allocated for only a few seconds.
When the glue is grabbing, you should remove the tape and pull the rim by the thread, tangle as in the photo. Glasses must be left bandaged to the total solidification of glue. If the gap remains between the rim and lens, it is desirable to additionally pour super-glue.
Checking frames of glasses after repairing gluing showed that it has a sufficient margin of strength for further operation. Appearance Points remained without visible changes.
At the request of the familiar I had to repair the glasses, which broke in half one of the towers. The breakdown occurred at the place of docking of its metal part with a plastic sequel.
The metal part of the haniest is fastened to the plastic part due to the protruding pin, which was tightly inserted into the hole in the plastic part of the tow and fixed with a screw. It was not possible to remove the pin from the plastic after unscrewing the screw, since the bummer occurred along the plastic line, and it was impossible to catch the tool for the pin. To complete the plastic, shortening the tow, also did not want.
The complexity of the carniest repair at first glance was aggravated by the fact that the metal part was all in the openwork holes. But as it turned out, it was a plus. To restore the integrity of the towers was made of a leaf of brass with a thickness of 1 mm. Special shape. The geometric dimensions of the lining do not cite, since all the towers are different and the pad to repair the specific rims of the glasses will have its own sizes depending on the width of the towers in the verge of breakage.
As can be seen from the photo, two holes were drilled in the lining and three bend were made. Figures are needed to eliminate the axial swing of the combined hanger parts. The dimensions of the holes were determined by the finished holes in the metal and plastic hanger parts, and amounted to 2.5 mm in diameter and 1.5 mm, respectively.
To the lining the metal part of the towers was fixed with a shortened screw M2.5 with a conical head. Screw was used as a rivet.
It was inserted from the outer side of the metal part of the tow and on the inside was intertwined with a small hammer. In order for the open part of the screw did not protrude in the lining, the hole was pre-made.
To the plastic part of the towers, the pad was fixed with the M1.5 screw, twisted in the previously threaded hole in the remaining pin.
In the photo view of the lining after installing the screw and rivets from the inside of the towers.
And in this photo, a view from the outside of the tow after connecting it fragmented parts.
It remains to connect with the help of a regular screw knife to the rim of glasses and repairs can be considered complete.
So glasses began to look after repair. If you do not carefully look closely, then notice the renovated silence of the towers is difficult, it does not rush into the eyes. But but the hasson began to be much stronger and now she will never break in this place.
Points with a frame of thermoplastic plastics are easier to repair, as it is easily melting when heated is well glued, and is dissolved by some types of solvents, for example, dichloroethane or benzene.
I collided with the repair of glasses in a plastic frame, which was broken immediately in three places. The rim was broken off the right loop of the towing towers.
Also was broken, as can be seen in the photo, part of the rim from the side of the towing towing to the base. Apparently, the glasses randomly sat down or came.
Repairs had to be performed in two stages. First, with the help of the super-glue "Contact" according to the technology described above, applied during the repair of metal rims of glasses with a broken rim at the jumper, a broken plastic part of the rim was glued to the previous place.
In repaired glasses, assholes were equipped with flexs, which during operation on the glued part of the rim will create a greater load. Therefore, to ensure sufficient strength of the rim in the place of the gluing, two steel brackets bent from the stationery clip were additionally installed in plastic.
To fit the clips, you need to take it with tweezers and attach to the place with a crack, as shown in the photo. Next, the steel of the soldering iron with a capacity of 12-40 W need to heat the bracket, slightly pressed on it from above. This usually takes a few minutes. Hurry up here should not.
When the bracket entered the plastic tweezers can be removed and then pressed, continue to heat the bracket until it is completely drowning at the base of the points.
Next, the steering of the soldering iron is smoothed out the plastic extinced bracket so that the bracket is completely disappeared. After the plastic frozen, the resulting unevenness is stepping with appropriate or sandpaper, and roughness is removed by polishing with felt. After that, you can start repairing a hinge compound.
First, it is necessary to remove the remaining loop and to align the surface of the asshole to the base of the glasses to remove the remaining loop.
From the copper or steel wire ∅1-1,5 mm you need to bring a rectangular loop. The photo shows the loop made from the wire for wiring. Copper, in contrast to steel, easily bends and has sufficient strength.
Based on the size of the base, the ends of the loop shock up to the desired length and bred to the sides. This shape of the loop will ensure reliable fixation of it in the plastic body of the glasses.
Next, the eyelet is placed on a flat surface, covered with a soft cloth and is attached to a heavy item. The base is close to it, as in the photo. It remains moored, according to the technology described above for bracket, drown a homemade eye into the base of the points of the glasses. After cooling, the hinge compound will be sufficiently kept and work well. If the plastic in the melting point will lose the shine, then it is possible to cover this place with a thin layer of liquid transparent nail polish. The varnish is usually done on the basis of a solvent, which softens the thermoplastic plastic.
As can be seen in the photo, the repaired hinged glasses turned out to be sufficiently neat.
From the outside of the traces of repair of plastic rims, it is practically not visible. Glasses are renovated and ready for further sock.
In the guest book, Margarita from Rybinsk asked me the following question:
- I have such a problem, the child broke the glasses! A mess was broken in the place of a screw with a screw, that is, a hinge with a screw remained on a rim, and a handling without a hole. Raming plastic. I delivered glasses to repair, said not to repair, you need to buy new ones. Maybe you will advise something.
My advice:
- You can repair everything, but the laboriousness of the repair and the need to acquire a special tool often makes it economically inappropriate. This is just your case. But since the main cost of glasses is the optical glass and their installation, you can repair points with lowest costs, if you buy a cheap frame, from which the arms will suit for your glasses in color, the method of fastening and the size of the loop. It is even better to buy exactly the same rim. The permutation of the student with one points to others will not be a lot of work. Points will become like new.
