Beetroot is one of the favorite garden crops, it can be found on almost every garden plot... The secret to a good beet harvest lies in the right choice varieties, timely planting and good care.
There are quite a few varieties of table beet used in cooking. Experienced gardeners it is recommended to plant several varieties different terms ripening. At the same time, the harvest is removed in two terms, early varieties for use in summer, mid-season and late ones - for canning and storage.
The most popular varieties:
In addition, when buying, you should pay attention to the purpose of the variety - for fresh consumption and cooking, for canning, for storage. The shape and color of the root crop is a matter of taste, but it has been noticed that varieties with uniform pulp without rings are more juicy.
Beets love warmth and bright light, so they need a sunny area with nutritious and loose soil. It grows well on peat soils, sandy loams and loams with high fertility. To provide high yield, it is better to cook a plot for beets in the fall.
Good predecessors of this culture are:
Beets grow worst of all on the plots where their closest relatives were grown: chard, fodder, sugar and table beets.
The site is dug at the end of the garden season or in early spring on a shovel bayonet with the fertilizers indicated in the table.
| Fertilizer | Image | Quantity per 1 m2, g |
|---|---|---|
| 15-20 |
||
| 20-30 |
||
| 30-40 |
||
| 10-15 |
||
| 500-1000 |
It is important not to exceed the recommended doses of mineral fertilizers, otherwise the root crops will turn out to be loose, with voids and cracks. You can replace fertilizers with organic matter: rotted manure that has lain in the herd for at least two years, humus, ash.
It is better to do the beds just before planting, so more moisture will remain in the soil, and the seeds will germinate faster. The soil is loosened and leveled with a rake, if it has time to dry out, you need to water it well, after which you can start sowing.
Beetroot seeds are shriveled drupes and are fairly large in size so they can be easily planted at appropriate intervals. Commercial seeds are often treated with stimulants and fungicides and are easily recognized by their bright pink or greenish color. Such seeds do not need processing, it can even harm. They are sown dry without preparation in moist soil.
The color of untreated beet seeds is brownish, sometimes sandy with a greenish tinge. Before planting, it is recommended to prepare them in the way described below.
In order for the beets to please you with a good harvest, it is important to correctly determine the planting dates. Single shoots appear at a soil temperature of 5-7 degrees, but massive and friendly shoots can be achieved only when the ground warms up to a temperature of 13-16 degrees at a depth of 8-10 cm.
Usually it is not before the middle May. Planting beets in open ground used to be meaningless - being in cold, damp soil, the seeds can rot, and the emerging plants will then go into the arrow.
On the prepared beds, grooves are marked with a depth of about 2 cm. It is convenient to make them using a board, pressing it with its end into the loosened soil - the bed of the grooves will be dense, and the planting depth will be the same. By choosing a board of the desired width, you can also use it to mark the distance between the rows. It should be:
The grooves are poured from a watering can, preventing erosion, and left until the water is absorbed. Seeds are laid out on the bottom of the grooves, maintaining an interval of 4 to 10 cm, depending on the size and purpose of the selected variety. From above they are covered with soil or well-rotted humus and watered.
For large planting volumes, you can make a pattern, as in the figure, while the distances between the plants will always be the same.
Beets are unpretentious and drought-resistant, but they can only give a high yield with good care and adherence to agricultural technology.
With good care, beets rarely get sick and are affected by pests, but for a full harvest it is important not to miss the first signs of the disease.
| Diseases and pests | Image | Description, causes, treatment |
|---|---|---|
| Fomoz | Fungal disease, accompanied by the appearance of spots on the lower leaves and dry rot of the core of the root crop. The reason is the lack of boron, it is necessary to feed with boric acid | |
| Cercospora | It affects plant leaves, impairs the growth and development of root crops. The reason is a lack of potassium, it is necessary to feed with potassium chloride or ash | |
| It can be identified by a gray-purple bloom on the underside of the tops, then they begin to dry out or rot. The plant must be sprayed with fungicides, it is better to do this prophylactically in the phase of 2-3 leaves | ||
| An infectious disease affecting seedlings. At the same time, the leg becomes thin, turns black, and soon the plant dies. Disease occurs when there is a lack of aeration on heavy damp soils | ||
| Occurs in dry weather with insufficient watering. Leaf cuttings darken, root crops crack with the formation of a white bloom at the site of damage | ||
| It appears, on the contrary, at high humidity and excess nitrogen. It manifests itself as a brown or gray bloom on root crops. When rot appears, the fruits are removed, and the site is not used for growing root crops for 4-5 years |
Beetroot has a huge nutritional value for the body. Although it is a biennial plant, it is grown as an annual. The reason is that the root crop ripens in the same year, and the next year it begins to sprout with flowers and seeds.
Today you will learn how to plant beets. Gardeners love this vegetable not only for its nutritional value, but also for its ease of care. Compared to other plants, beets are not very whimsical, but it is still necessary to plant and care for them correctly.
Let's figure out when to plant carrots and beets. You can do this in spring, autumn or summer, but still sowing with seeds is best done in spring. It is customary to plant such root vegetables as turnips, beets, radishes and carrots when the frost has come to an end and the temperature of the soil and air becomes higher (ideally - + 16-20 0 С).
It is important to consider the order of rotation of crops in order to protect their diseases and pests, to preserve fertile soil. For planting beets, the soil is perfect after zucchini, squash, potatoes (early), legumes, tomatoes, cucumbers or cabbage. It is best not to grow beets in soil where spinach and Swiss chard were grown.
Now let's decide what can be planted after the beets. There is an expression: " tops are planted after the roots". It means that carrots, turnips and other root crops are undesirable to grow after this culture (although some housewives plant carrots). All other vegetables will get along well on the plot of land where this root crop was previously located.
It will be correct if you plant legumes, cucumbers, zucchini, eggplant, basil or parsley on this site. If you are not going to plant vegetables, you can grow annual flowers (for example, lemongrass or balsam). The same piece of land for growing beets can be used no more than once every three years.
In order for the harvest to be plentiful and delight its owner, you need to know which beets are best to buy and plant. It is correct to purchase seeds in specialized stores when choosing a product good quality... Give preference to domestic varieties.
Some of the best varieties the following are considered:
Decide on how to grow vegetable crops... There are only two of them: sowing seeds directly into the beds or seedlings.
It is important to properly care for the beets. Top dressing for the first time should be done after the seedlings have rooted. It must contain nitrogen and potassium chloride. The second time feeding is best done in a month.
Forage varieties are intended for feeding animals, as they contain an excessive amount of fiber, which adversely affects the human stomach. When sowing forage varieties, you need to know how to plant beets in the spring, because the principles of cultivation are almost the same for them.
Beets are so popular that they are grown on every continent except Antarctica. And this is not surprising, because this root vegetable is not only rich in vitamins and minerals, but also edible from the roots to the tips of the leaves.
Cultivation of a healthy vegetable is within the power of even a novice gardener. In the article, we will tell you in detail about when and how to plant beets with seeds.
Varieties are divided into early, mid-season and late (depending on the ripening period).
Of the early varieties, Early Wodan, Carillon, Red Ball, Mona, Egyptian and Gribovskaya flat, Action, Nastenka are popular. The harvest of such beets can be harvested in 80-110 days from the moment of germination.
Mid-season varieties include Bordeaux-237, Sonata, Crimson ball, Valya, Detroit, Cold-resistant 19. This beet will ripen in 110-130 days.
Late beets are represented by such varieties as Saladnaya, Matrona, Cylindra. Late-ripening beets are harvested 130-145 days after germination.
The culture is sown both with dry and presoaked seeds. More friendly and faster germination is provided by soaked and germinated seed material. This is easily explained, because beet seeds are dense and wrinkled and they need a lot of moisture and time to germinate.
For soaking, use ordinary warm water.
Important! Sprouted seeds are sown in well-moistened soil, otherwise the sprouts will die.
The prepared seeds will sprout in about 3-4 days. Dry - in 12-15 days. The fresher the seeds, the better germination they give.
Planting dates affect germination and quality indicators.
When to start sowing beets outdoors? The specific date is determined by the climate of the region and the variety of the root crop. For early varieties, the soil should be warmed up to + 8-10 ° C. Cold-resistant varieties can be sown at soil temperatures of + 5-6 ° C.
Need to know. Beet seedlings are sensitive to low temperatures... Cold snap and frost can ruin the entire crop.
Mid-season and late varieties are sown in early June. By the end summer season they ripen completely.
You can choose a specific sowing date focusing on moon calendar... All root crops are sown when the moon is waning.
Most auspicious days in 2019:
The same crop rotation rules apply to beet crops as to other root crops. For planting, do not choose the same place for more than two years in a row. Re-use the area for beets after 4-5 years.
Next to what to plant beets? Good predecessors of beets are legumes, cabbage, tomato, cucumber, eggplant.
Root crops love to grow along the edges of the garden. In the central part, carrots, onions, celery, kohlrabi, cauliflower will serve as good neighbors.
Proper placement of plants in the garden will allow you to get the maximum possible yield per unit area.
Plant soaked or dry seeds correctly in pre-moistened soil. On the bed, 2-3 grooves are cut with an interval of 15-20 cm. A distance of 40-50 cm is maintained between the beds. The seeds are laid out in furrows at a distance of 8-10 cm from each other.
It is not worth planting seeds deeply. The sprouts will not have enough oxygen and seedlings will not appear. And finely sown seeds will not have enough moisture.
The choice of the optimum sowing depth depends on the soil. The seed is buried in heavy soil by 2 cm, in light soil - by 3-4 cm.
Experienced Farmer Tips:
What mistakes to avoid:
The answer to the question of at what distance from each other to plant seeds depends on the chosen method of planting root crops.
Experienced gardeners use several schemes, choosing the most convenient for themselves in the future:
After the emergence of seedlings, the planting must be thinned regularly. Further care consists in watering, fertilizing, loosening the soil, removing weeds, protecting against pests.
After the first thinning, the plants are fed with mineral fertilizers. Fertilizer is applied in a liquid or dry state when the first true leaves appear.
Average dosage: 30 g of ammonium nitrate, 80 g of superphosphate, 35 g of potassium chloride per 10 liters of water. This volume of liquid is used for watering 15 running meters of the row. Superphosphate and potash fertilizers replace ash well.
The second time fertilization is applied 20 days after the first feeding.
Important! Root crops are fertilized until mid-July. Later feeding leads to the accumulation of nitrates in the vegetable.
Experienced gardeners once a month water the beets with a weak solution of sodium chloride. This increases the sweetness of the vegetable and enriches the soil with sodium.
Particular attention is paid to watering during the period of growing green mass. After the formation of leaves, watering is reduced. Excess moisture leads to cracking of the root vegetables, which degrades the vegetable in winter.
Excessive moisture is also bad for the taste of beets.
In August, some summer residents stop caring for beets, believing that the job has already been done. This approach is erroneous, since at this time the root crop is gaining mass and still needs oxygen, light and moisture. Loosening is especially necessary if the beets are growing in heavy soil.
The greatest danger of pests and diseases is at the initial stage of plant growth. The following insects significantly reduce the crop yield:
Beets are not insured against diseases either. Let's list the most common ones:
To avoid damage to crops by pests and diseases, timely removal of weeds, compliance with crop rotation, tillage in the fall with the introduction of fertilizers helps.
The sowing site is chosen aside from the plants, which can be a source of disease and dangerous insects.
Need to know. Plant debris is a wintering place for dangerous insects. Cleaning the site in the fall and burning plant residues deprives pests of shelter for the winter.
When choosing seed material, varieties and hybrids that are resistant to diseases are selected.
If the disease has appeared, the affected leaves are cut off and removed from the site.
Even a novice gardener can handle the cultivation of beets from seeds. Soaking and preparing the seeds for planting improves germination and allows for an early harvest. V open ground planting and caring for beets does not require much effort.
Plant beets (Latin Beta) belongs to the genus one-, two- and perennial herbaceous plants of the Amaranth family, although not so long ago the beet, which in Ukraine is called the beetroot, and in Belarus the beetroot, was reckoned to the Marevye family. The main representative of the genus is the common beet, which has three varieties: table beet, fodder beet and sugar beet. Beetroot grows on all continents except Antarctica. The progenitor of cultivated plant species, wild beets were used both for food and as medicinal plant back in ancient Babylon. The most interesting thing is that at first they ate only the leaves, and the beet roots were used for medicinal purposes.
The ancient Greeks sacrificed beets to Apollo as one of the most valuable plants for them. Cultural forms of root beet appeared only at the beginning of our era, and in the X-XI centuries they were already cultivated in Kievan Rus... Fodder beets were developed by the 16th century in Germany, and sugar beet breeding began in 1747, when it turned out that sugar contained in cane was found in beets. Today, beet sugar is used more often in many countries than cane sugar, and beetroot (Beta vulgaris) has become an indispensable crop known to be rich in antioxidants, potassium and folic acid that humans need.
Read more about growing beets below.
The root of the beet, the so-called root vegetable, is juicy, thick and fleshy. In most varieties, when growing in the ground, it is not completely submerged in the ground, but slightly protrudes above the surface. In the first year of growth, beets, like carrots, develop only a rosette of large, bare, ovoid, basal leaves on long petioles, as well as a root crop.
Sometimes by the end of the first year, but usually on the second from the middle of the outlet, an erect, strongly branched, faceted stem appears, reaching from half a meter to a meter in height, with small alternate, almost sessile leaves, in the axils of which bunches of small, dull, also sessile flowers appear. composed in compound ears. The fruit of the beet is a compressed single seed.
Varied beneficial features beets, due to the presence of organic acids, iron and fiber in root crops. Because of this, beets are often used in diets to treat hypertension, kidney stones, diabetes, scurvy, and other diseases. Fresh beet juice has great healing power.
Growing beets in the open field involves sowing seeds both by seedling and non-seedling methods. Despite the fact that beets are cold-resistant crops, they should not be sown in open ground before the air warms up to 6-8 ºC, however, the full development of the plant begins only when the temperature rises to 16 ºC. In addition, if early sown seedlings fall under frost, they will shoot themselves instead of increasing the root crop. To stimulate germination, beet seeds are soaked for a day in cold water or half an hour warm (35 ºC).
The seeds are buried in the ground to a depth of 2-3 cm, and the distance between the rows is observed depending on the variety - from 7 cm if you grow small beets for canning, and up to 30-35 cm if you need large root crops. The distance between specimens in a row in the first case is 5-6 cm, and in the second - up to 10 cm.
Since in many varieties of beets the seeds are collected in infructescences of 2-3 pieces, the sprouts appear in clusters and require thinning at an early stage of development, in the phase of the formation of the first pair of true leaves. As a result of the procedure, the distance between shoots should be 3-4 cm. The removed shoots are transplanted to another place: at this stage of development, they easily take root.
Simultaneously with the first thinning, the site is weeded, and then mulched with fine organic matter - sawdust, for example.
The second thinning is carried out when the seedlings acquire two pairs of leaves, and the root crop reaches a diameter of 1.5 cm - the interval between seedlings after the second thinning should be 6-10 cm. Thinning with simultaneous weeding is carried out after watering or rain in cloudy weather.
Early varieties of beets are grown by seedlings, which are rich in vitamin C and carotene, as well as betanin, calcium, iron, phosphorus and other biologically active substances. Young beets are as valuable an early vegetable as radish, salad, green onions... Choose beet varieties resistant to flowering for growing seedlings - K-249, Polar flat, Cold-resistant 19.
Cultivation of beet seedlings begins three weeks before planting in open ground with pre-sowing seed treatment. The seed for disinfection is soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, then the seeds are kept for 2-3 days in a humid environment for pecking and finally laid out in a box on a wet, light, pickled with Fitosporin to avoid black leg disease, lightly sprinkled with the same substrate and put in greenhouse.
Caring for beet seedlings is no different from caring for any other seedlings - it requires slightly wet ground, constant temperature and daily ventilation.
How to dive beet seedlings, and when to do it? Picking is carried out according to the same principle, with the same signs and with the same interval as when thinning seedlings in open ground. Seedlings dive only once, but if you sowed seeds not in a box, but in cups, then you can not dive the seedlings, but plant them in open ground directly in cups.
Planting of beets in the ground is carried out from mid-May at the stage of development in seedlings of 4-5 leaves. A prerequisite is soil warmed up to 8-10 ºC at a depth of 8-10 cm, which is possible only if the place for the beets is well lit by the sun.
Before planting beets, you need to select a site for it and prepare the soil on it. Most of all, beets love fertile loose soils - peat bogs, medium loamy chernozems of slightly alkaline or neutral reaction - the pH value should be at least 5 and not higher than 8 units. In acidic or too alkaline soil, beets are sick. Avoid planting beets in soils that have been filled with fresh manure or compost: it takes at least 3 years to grow beets in such areas.
You can plant beets in areas where onions, tomatoes, cucumbers, cereals, eggplants, peppers and legumes grew before them; undesirable precursors for beets are chard, carrots, all types of beets, potatoes, rapeseed and any cabbage.
In early spring 20-30 g of sulphate ammonium, 15-20 g of ammonium nitrate, 10-15 g of potassium chloride and 30-40 g of superphosphate per 1 m² are added to the site for digging. If the soil on the site does not differ in fertility, then add 2-3 kg of humus per unit area, and to neutralize the acidic soil, add half a kilogram of fluffy lime to 1 m².
The size of the beet root depends on the planting density: the larger the gap between the seedlings, the larger the beet root will be. But too large root vegetables are inconvenient to use, in addition, they accumulate more nitrates and are not as tasty as medium-sized root vegetables. To get juicy, sweet roots, seedlings are planted on a cloudy day in rows at a distance of 4-5 cm from each other, the size of the row spacing should be about 25 cm. When transplanting, the central root of the seedling is shortened by a third of the length.
After transplanting into open ground, the seedlings are watered with a humate solution and protected from the sun for speedy rooting. non-woven fabric, having built over the beds along the entire length of the arc, so that the shelter laid on them does not damage fragile seedlings. After the young beet is taken in, gets stronger, and its root crop acquires a diameter of one and a half centimeters, it will be possible to thin out the seedlings to an interval of 8-10 cm between them, and by July, when the leaves of the tops are practically closed, the shelter is removed, and the area is mulched for protection beets from weeds and moisture retention in the soil.
Planting of winter beets takes place in late October or early November. On a previously dug and fertilized area, grooves are made at a distance of 15-20 cm, into which seeds are scattered at the rate of 2-3 g per m², or as described in the section on sowing beet seeds in open ground. Seeds are not covered with a depth of 3-4 cm. Planting beets in the fall involves the mandatory mulching of the site for the winter with humus or peat.
Caring for growing beets requires removing weeds from the area, regular watering and loosening the row spacing. If you mulched the beds, then you will have to weed, loosen the soil and water the beets much less often. Loosening of the row spacing to a depth of 4-6 cm is necessary to destroy the soil crust, which makes it difficult to aerate the root crops. The crust is especially harmful to plants during the period of development of the first two pairs of leaves, since it is at this time that the root molt occurs, which retards the growth of the plant and forces it to show increased demands on growing conditions.
Weeds can drown out young plants, the growth of which is very slow until 4-5 leaves appear, so their timely removal is a very important condition for caring for beets. Before the emergence of shoots, weeds are controlled by spraying the plot with tractor kerosene at the rate of 35-50 g of kerosene per m². And when 2-3 pairs of leaves appear in seedlings, the site is treated from weeds with a solution of sodium nitrate. Then, when the beets become strong, the weeds cannot harm them.
Beets normally tolerate a short drought, but if you need a high-quality and rich harvest, watering the beds with beets should be regular, and this is especially important just in hot, dry weather. Water the beets as soon as the topsoil dries out, preferably in the evening, and The best way watering - sprinkling, because with this method the leaves of the plant are refreshed and washed. If there is no mulch on the site, the next day after watering, it is necessary to loosen the aisles to a depth of 4 cm.
To increase the sugar content of root vegetables, before watering the beets, dissolve a tablespoon of kitchen salt in a bucket of water for watering. Watering too often and too much is just as harmful to the beets as insufficient moisture, since it is the cause of fungal diseases. On average, beets are watered 3-4 times per season, the rate of water per 1 m² is 2-3 buckets. Two to three weeks before harvesting, watering is stopped altogether - this measure also increases the amount of sugar in root crops, and also improves their keeping quality.
Beets are very fond of organic matter, and cracking and voids can form in root crops from mineral fertilizers. How to fertilize beets in this case? At the beginning of growth, after the first thinning, it needs nitrogen fertilizers, which can be used as a solution of poultry manure at a consistency of 1:12 or mullein (1: 8) at the rate of 12 liters of liquid fertilizer per 10 m². It is most convenient to make grooves at a distance of 5 cm from the shoots and spill them with a fertilizer solution. When the tops of the rows close together, it is time to apply potash fertilizers, as which you can scatter wood ash over the beds at the rate of 1 glass per 1.5 m², followed by watering the area.
Foliar feeding of beets has a number of advantages:
So that the beets do not experience a shortage of molybdenum, boron and copper, these elements are fed by feeding them through the leaves, as well as milk of lime (200 g of lime per bucket of water), which feeds the roots with potassium. Spraying the tops with a saline solution at the rate of 60 g of non-iodized salt per 10 liters of water nourishes the roots with sodium and protects the whites and summer flies from the butterfly.
Of the diseases, beets are most often affected by phomosis, cercosporosis, peronosporosis, root eater and rot. To find out what the beets are sick with, you need to know the symptoms of possible diseases, and only a correctly diagnosed diagnosis will help you decide how and how to process the beets in order to save the harvest.
Fomoz arises, as a rule, from a lack of boron in the soil - that is why foliar feeding of beets with microelements is so important. This fungal disease manifests itself as brown or yellowish concentric spots on the lower leaves of the rosette, then black dots appear on them. As a result, dry rot of the heart develops - inside the root vegetable the tissues acquire a dark brown color. Frequent lingering rains, fogs, high humidity air. If you find phomosis on the plants, immediately apply root dressing with brownish at the rate of 3 g per m² and spray the leaves with a solution of boric acid (half a teaspoon per 10 liters of water). V next year add boric acid to the soil at the rate of 3 g per m².
Cercosporosis, or spotting, can destroy up to 70% of the beet crop, hitting the leaves of the plant, because of which they die off, and, consequently, the quality and keeping quality of root crops deteriorates. If you find small light spots outlined with a reddish border on the upper side of the leaves, and a light gray bloom on the lower side, add potassium chloride to the soil as a top dressing. As a preventive measure, treat the seeds before sowing with Agat-25 in accordance with the instructions, and spray the soil with a fungicide before planting.
After this article, they usually read
Very useful and common in our gardens and vegetable gardens root vegetable - beets. So that she would give good harvest in the spring it must be sown, taking into account certain conditions.
For the important points of growing beets in your country house, see the infographic below ⇓.
This stage begins in the fall. At this time, all parts of any plants must be removed from the beds. Add organic matter to the soil. Then dig it to a depth equal to the height of the shovel. If the soil is depleted, then it is worth adding mineral fertilizers... If the soil is highly acidic, add lime.
It is good if the planting of beets in the spring is carried out where potatoes, peas or cucumbers were grown last year.
The beet bed should not be shaded. Otherwise, the root crops will not have an intense shade. Because it only forms in bright sunlight.
Before planting beets in spring, the soil must be loosened with a rake. Then you can add dolomite flour.
Now the land is ready and you can wait for the moment when to plant beets in the spring. It is necessary to let the soil warm up to 5 ° C. If this is not done, then the seeds will go to the arrow and root crops will not form.
There are two ways to grow beets. The first is planting beet seeds. In order for the seedlings to appear faster, they need to be soaked. This is done in a solution of a growth stimulant or ordinary ash for a day. Then the seeds need to be washed in warm water and wrapped in a dry cloth.
Moisten the soil before planting beets. To do this, draw lines about 4 cm deep on the garden bed.The distance between them is supposed to be done at about 20 cm. Then the grooves watered... After the water has been absorbed, it is possible to plant beets in open ground. Since its seeds are large, they can be put in the ground one by one. There is no need to be afraid that there will be no shoots. Several plants always grow from one such seed. Therefore, the seedlings will still have to be thinned out. Therefore, it is better to plant beets with seeds at once less often, so that later it will have room for growth. Thinned shoots can be used to compact other beds. And then the dacha will bring maximum benefit. We can say that when beets are planted, the planting pattern looks like a lattice, at the intersection of which future plants are located.
If you immediately plant beets in open ground, then the planting pattern can also be:
The time for sowing seeds should be chosen so that the soil still retains moisture from the winter snow. Usually, the planting dates for beets are in the first ten days of May. If spring is late, then this time is shifted by a week.
Caring for them consists in weeding and occasional loosening. During its growth, it is supposed to perform a couple of dressings. First organic fertilizer, just a little. And then ashes or mineral mixtures no nitrates.
This method is suitable if you do not want to do thinning. For those who do not understand the question of how to plant beets with seeds, you can grow them with seedlings in a greenhouse. The distance between the grooves is made equal to 5-6 cm, and the seeds are sown 3 cm apart. Planting of seedlings is carried out 1 month before it is planned to move to a permanent place.
When 4 leaves appear on the plant, this serves as a signal that it can be transplanted. This means that the sprouts need to be hardened by arranging the ventilation of the greenhouse.
Before planting in open ground, it is well watered. I sink each sprout into clay mortar... And they are seated according to the scheme on the site.
Beets can be planted 2 times a season:
Plus, planting beets in winter in getting more early harvest, it can ripen at the end of July.
Based on their plant compatibility, you can figure out what to plant after the beets. For example, you can choose color or white cabbage... Also, the answer to the question of what to plant after the beets will be a list that contains:
In addition, it is possible to create a mixed bed, where beets will grow from the edge, and inside the cauliflower:
You can choose one of the following types:
sugar beet 
beetroot The choice of the type and beet varieties depends on the purpose of its use.
If the dacha is equipped with a room in which livestock is kept, then planting of fodder beets will be required. For her, you need to prepare the ground in advance. Add mineral fertilizers and compost to it. Then dig it up. The seeds need to be sorted out and pickled. If you wish, you can soak it in a stimulant solution. But it is permissible to sow without preliminary seed preparation. The pattern in which it is sown differs from the one described above. Because the roots grow very large. The distance between the grooves should be more than 50 cm. Neighboring shoots in the same row should be placed every 25 cm.
Those who only need it for food will need to plant canteen beets. This variety is especially sensitive to lack of light. Therefore, it is not advisable to place a garden bed with it in the garden, so that it is not shaded by trees. This also explains the increased demand for weeding and thinning.
For lovers, it is possible to plant sugar beets. However, it requires a special soil structure: it is desirable that the site is not peaty and sandy. It is advisable to fertilize this type of beet from sowing to the formation of a root crop. During the intensive growth of tops, sugar beets are fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizer. When the time comes for the development of the fetus, she needs potassium chloride and superphosphate.
