I am expanding and renovating my vineyard in the simplest and cheapest way - I use grape cuttings that remain in large quantities after the autumn pruning.
At first glance, this procedure seems very easy. But not everything is simple in this matter, you need to follow some rules, namely:
Important! Growing grapes from seeds is a thankless task, and it is almost impossible to achieve success in this. At best 10-12 seeds grow from one thousand seeds.
To this it must be added that half of the plants obtained from the seeds are of high quality, and even they will not "inherit" the characteristics of the mother bush.
The experience of winegrowers shows that the best time for harvesting cuttings it is autumn-winter, from mid-November to mid-December, when the leaves have already fallen, the harvest is harvested, and the vines are prepared for the cold season.
At this time, useful substances are well preserved and are ready to endure winter frosts. For reproduction, take "naked" fruit lashes without leaves, antennae, shoots, from which cuttings 25-35 cm long are cut. Four buds are left on this segment.
The cut of the shank is made at a distance of 2-3 cm from the upper kidney, at an angle of 40-45 degrees, and the lower cut should be made under the lower eye in a straight line.
Experienced growers make vertical cuts at the bottom of the cutting. This operation accelerates the formation of young roots.
Carrying out the autumn pruning of unnecessary shoots, branches that bear fruit in the summer are used for cuttings. Their diameter should be 8-10 cm. A vine cut on a pinching knot is suitable for a cutting. The middle part of the fruit branch is also used.
Prepared cuttings are grouped by varieties, marked and tied into bundles of several pieces.
To grow a full-fledged vine, it is not enough to choose the right piece of a branch and preserve it during the winter cold.
Before you start planting autumn cuttings in the soil in spring, you need to get them out of the cellar and ventilate them well. Then the planting material is checked for safety. If you press firmly on the "correct" seedling with your fingers, juice is released from the cut.
A rotten stalk smells unpleasant, and the juice flows out of it without any effect. With such a seedling, you should not waste your energy and time, the bush will not grow out of it.
It happens that during the winter the plant dries up, and no juice is released from it, such a shank is also discarded.
Important! Grapes are propagated by cuttings or spring layering not only at home. This method is also used in industrial crop cultivation.
Grape plantings will develop quickly if the shanks are well prepared. To do this, the selected best specimens are soaked in warm water before planting, this will wake up the dormant possibilities of the vine. The cuttings are soaked for two days.
To grow a good strong vineyard, cuttings must be carried out in accordance with all the terms and stages. Also, before planting, pruning, all components are needed - tools, fertilizers, utensils, and good weather conditions.
Autumn harvesting of grape seedlings at home is not limited to cutting the source material and storing it competently in winter.
Cuttings are germinated in a pot or other container before planting.
The step-by-step process can be determined by the following actions:
You need to water the plant daily, but in moderation. It is better to plant the stalk in a plastic transparent dish, so you can see the roots that appear. During this time, 4-6 small leaves should grow on the shanks themselves, this is a signal that the plant is ready to move into the open ground.
For growing, it is convenient to take 1.5-2 liter bottle from under the mineral water, and in the store to buy soil for growing plants, which has already been fertilized.
Saplings are planted in open ground to a depth of 0.7-0.8 m. When preparing a hole, fertile soil is laid in one direction, and clay in the other. The first, fertile heap is added mineral fertilizers, ash, humus.
Important! The success of growing grapes from cuttings largely depends on the condition of the soil. In fertile, light and loose soil, the plant will grow rapidly. Young leaves serve as an indicator of the state of the soil.
Unfavorable soil causes them to dry out along the edges. Watering with a solution of wood ash will help to save from this.
In warm areas planted "according to the rules" chubuki yield a harvest in two years, but it is better to count on the first good berries in three or four.
There is another good way to make productive bushes out of shanks. But this method can only be used in warm areas. Having selected the most beautiful vine during pruning in the fall, it is cut into traditional stalks and buried at an angle of 40-45 degrees for permanent residence.
As needed, the petioles are watered, and with the onset of frosty days they are covered with film or agrofibre and covered with earth. From such a planting, a strong fruitful vineyard is obtained. Try it!
Grapes are a very thermophilic plant and we are used to growing them on huge plantations, mainly in southern countries. But over the past few decades, through the efforts of breeders, many hybrid varieties have been bred that can bear fruit in central Russia, and even closer to the north in closed greenhouses. At an average ripening temperature of + 18 ° C, you can get a harvest of juicy, fragrant berries in just 100-110 days. We will talk about the cultivation and cultivation of such grapes further.
Grapes are exactly the kind of culture that does not propagate by seeds, since in this case it does not retain its original genetic characteristics. It is not always possible to buy a ready-made seedling of a favorite variety. That is why the most accessible and widespread method of propagation of vines - cuttings.
Its availability lies in the fact that at home it is very easy to preserve, plant and root grape cuttings, prepare them for planting in open ground or a greenhouse. It is best to do this at home, since the rooting process should begin no later than late February - early March.
The most important thing is to choose a grape variety that is capable of good rooting.
Now there are many hybrid varieties possess this ability, since cuttings are one of the main areas of work of breeders. Most often, in a garden plot, gardeners like to breed table varieties with excellent taste, sugar content, large berries (preferably seedless), with early or mid-ripening periods. The varieties meet almost all these requirements: Delight, Kesha, Pleven, various varieties of Kishmish, Laura, Kodryanka, Anyuta, Aleshenkin, Veles and many others.
Before planting grapes in the ground, it is necessary to germinate the cuttings and wait for the first leaves to appear.
Growing grapes in a greenhouse or in the open field directly depends on the natural climatic conditions of the region. It is clear that in the southern regions in the open field, grapes will have time to ripen not only early varieties, but also later ones. But in the Middle zone, the Moscow region and further to the north in open soils, only the harvest of the earliest varieties will ripen.
In regions where summers are short and winters are cold, it is best to grow vines in greenhouses in order to enjoy the taste of berries with different ripening periods for a longer time. But indoors, you will have to more carefully monitor the health of the bushes., microclimate, soil condition, since cases of fungal and other infections spread much faster. In an enclosed space, it is easier to prevent the occurrence of typical diseases than to eradicate them.
The whole process of obtaining rooted seedlings takes several months, but it is not very difficult in terms of labor intensity. Even novice gardeners who decide to take up viticulture are able to achieve the best results - this culture is so unpretentious, although it requires some attention. The main thing is to properly care for and carry out certain activities on time.
Chopped grape cuttings
The very first stage is the preparation of planting material. During the pruning of grapes in the fall, when all branches bearing fruit this year are removed, cuttings are harvested. It is the fruit branches that serve as the best material for future seedlings. What is necessary take account:
The branch should be without visible damage, with a light bark, on the cut - green, with droplets of liquid (juice) protruding on it, the lower cut is made straight, and the upper cut oblique. Cutting length - at least 40-45 cm, cut diameter - 10-12 mm + 3-4 living buds with an interval of 10 cm between them.Cut with a very sharp pruning shears or a knife so that their tissues do not wrinkle, at a distance from the buds at least 2 -3 cm.
Cut cuttings need to be prepared for storage:
Store the cuttings at t 0 + 5 ° C (a refrigerator is suitable, glazed balcony, basement).
Cuttings can be stored both in the refrigerator and in the basement
In late February - early March, they begin to root the planting material. First you need to check how the material was preserved. To do this, the sections are updated, each at a distance of 0.5-2 cm from the upper and lower buds, respectively, in an oblique and direct way - they should be green and moist. Then the cuttings are immersed in water for 1-2 days (depending on the degree of dryness of the branches), to stimulate growth, it is necessary to add honey, aloe juice or humate (1 tablespoon / 10l of water).
At the lower heel, where the roots will grow, several grooves 2-3 mm deep and 2 cm long should be made with a needle - this will help to get a more developed, lush root system. The upper cut can be treated with paraffin.
Checking cuttings for safety
Put a layer of cotton wool about 2 cm on the bottom in an ordinary glass liter jar, pour the same amount of water (melted water is best), lower the cuttings. The heel - the bottom edge - should be in the water at a depth of 4-5 cm. To avoid decay of the liquid, you can put 2-3 tablets of activated carbon, add water periodically. You can put a plastic bag on top of the jar to create a greenhouse effect, put it on the windowsill.
Grapes, like any plant, need an abundance of light and warmth to grow vigorously. Twigs will appear first, and then roots. In order for the root system to develop, the shoots should be broken off; for a bush, one, the very last shoot will be enough.
The soil for seedlings must be prepared in the fall by mixing in equal amounts turf soil, peat, sand, rotted manure or compost; ready-made mixture from the store is also suitable. As a container, you can use plastic bottles, larger disposable cups, etc., make drainage holes. A little drainage is poured at the bottom of the container, then the prepared soil, the cutting is carefully lowered onto it, poured with soil, slightly (!) Moistened.
The heel of the seedling should be at a depth of 1/3 of the container, and young shoots above the ground. Approximately until the end of May - early June, young seedlings will have time to root well, develop full-fledged leaves and branches, and prepare for planting in the ground.
Planted shanks in pots
In the southern regions, where in March the soil warms up to a temperature of 10-12 degrees at a depth of 10 cm, cuttings after processing and soaking can be planted directly into the ground - a school. Planting is carried out in prepared, well-fertilized soil to a depth of 40 cm. The cuttings are placed in pits (or a furrow), covered with earth up to half, tamped well, watered abundantly, pits are poured to the top. 2 buds should remain on the surface of the earth. Focusing on the climate of the region, you can mulch the surface or temporarily cover it with a film.
Another fairly common way to germinate cuttings is in sawdust.
The sawdust should be only of deciduous trees, without any admixture of harmful plywood or chipboard sawdust. They must be steamed before use - pour boiling water, then cool and in a deep dish (bucket), first pour a small layer on the bottom. Then, in an inclined state, lay out the sawdust in layers, placing the cuttings vertically between them. After planting, cover the dishes with foil, put them in a warm place and moisten the environment from time to time until sprouts and roots appear.
Rooting grapes in sawdust
The technology for planting in open ground is simple. The finished rooted seedling is first prepared for planting in open ground. To do this, within 5-7 days, seedlings in pots are taken out into the street, avoiding direct sunlight. After hardening, cuttings are lowered into the prepared holes together with an earthen lump, the holes are poured with earth mixed with humus, watered with warm water. The main thing is not to deepen the plant and water it moderately. In order not to damage the roots during planting, it is better to carefully cut plastic cups or other containers, then remove the seedling with an earthen ball.
Rooted grapes ready to plant
Be sure to immediately fix the support next to the grape seedling planted in the ground!
Germinating a grape stalk, rooting it and growing a seedling of your favorite crunchy sweet berry is not a lot of work. This can be done both in a polycarbonate greenhouse or greenhouse, and in the open field. Correct care your pet - and he will thank you with active growth and a rich harvest, literally, in two or three years.
Fruitful grapes are propagated vegetatively - by cuttings, layering or grafting. Seeds are sown for breeding purposes only. Amateur gardeners successfully practice spring rooting of grape cuttings at home.
A stalk is a section of a stem with several buds.
Grape bushes will grow from these cuttings.
For reproduction at home, take lignified twigs from a matured (brown) vine. They are called cuttings or chubuki.
Breeding grapes with cuttings is a simple procedure available to any winegrower, even a beginner. This method has many advantages.:
Cutting is the most common method for propagating grapes.
Lignified cuttings can be planted directly in open ground (in spring or autumn), but home rooting is very often used (in late winter or spring).
When the snow melts outside the window, good-quality seedlings will already form from the cuttings.
Growing grapes from cuttings at home makes it possible to get full-fledged seedlings in the regions of sheltering viticulture(in the suburbs, in Siberia, in the Urals), even on the northern borders of this zone.
For winter-spring germination, cuttings are taken from ripe (lignified, crackling when bent, brown) annual vine... They are harvested during the autumn pruning of grape bushes (the approximate period is in October, before the establishment negative temperatures, until the soil freezes). In non-covering zones, breeding shanks can be cut in late autumn and winter - from the vine without signs of freezing or drying out.
Harvesting cuttings is usually combined with autumn pruning.
It is desirable to obtain material for propagation from the most productive and healthy bushes with typical varietal characteristics. Smooth branches without spots and other defects are considered suitable. If possible, you should choose for grafting middle part those shoots that grew out of central buds of biennial branches.
The optimal cutting thickness is from 0.5 to 1 cm(in varieties with thin vines, this figure may be less).
Too thick, fattening stems have loose wood, it is not recommended to take them.
The length of the shank is not measured in centimeters. It is determined by the number of buds (eyes).
Three-eyed grape cuttings.
Two-eyed and three-eyed cuttings are used more often. although one-eyed and four-eyed ones are also suitable. In the process of cutting, antennae and stepsons, the remains of foliage are removed (cut off) from the branches. Sometimes long vines are stored in winter ( 50-100-170 cm), and cut them before rooting.
The upper cut is made straight, at a height of 20–40 mm above the upper kidney. The lower cut is performed obliquely - under the lower kidney, slightly stepping down from it (it will be updated before planting). It can be difficult for a beginner winegrower to determine on a cut vine - where is the top and where is the bottom.
Slices on a grape cuttings.
Straight and oblique cuts, made directly near the growing bush, later help to understand this issue. (The photo shows that the pointed tip of the bud looks slightly upward, but the antennae are often directed downward. A small scar is visible under the bud: this is a trace from a fallen leaf petiole.)
The shawls are tied in bunches, tied in two places. Tags with the names of the varieties are immediately attached. Further, the bundles need to be stored for several months. They are pre-processed.
The shanks prepared in this way are usually preserved normally.
The ideal conditions for preservation are considered to be 80–95% humidity and a temperature of +1 +4 degrees (not higher than +8).
Planting material is kept in a cellar (underground, basement) or in a refrigerator, as well as outdoors - in a snowdrift or in a trench.
A snowdrift with a thickness of 20 cm or more protects the cuttings from frost, the main thing is not to let it thaw.
In areas with a stable snow cover, cuttings are conveniently stored in a snowdrift, at a depth of at least 50 cm. In loose snow - optimal temperature and humidity.
Before snowfalls, the cut vine can be wrapped in wet burlap and kept at first just in the garden on the ground, and with the arrival of frost - in a cellar or other room with low positive temperatures. Chubuki are laid in the snow "naked" or pre-packed (in sugar bags, in cut plastic bottles).
The cuttings can simply be placed in the pit and covered with earth.
Some growers combine a shallow trench and (top) a shallow snowdrift... The pit is not covered with earth, a cover is installed on it. With this option, planting material is easy to take at the right time.
When stored in a cellar, the cuttings are placed in a box of sand.
There are several accommodation options.
If the cuttings are few, they can be refrigerated.
Use packaging.
There is also such a method of storage: the cuttings are kept suspended in a deep well (above the water).
Experienced growers are advised to start this work in February (usually in the second half of the month) or early March.
Those who are accustomed to referring to lunar calendar Avoid starting rooting in the barren Aquarius sign. The development of callus and roots is activated during the waning moon. Sometimes nodules of callus and roots are formed during storage; they need to be protected.
Disinfection of cuttings in a solution of potassium permanganate.
Cuttings are taken out of storage and washed with a solution of potassium permanganate (medium strength), if there are traces of mold. It is important to correctly assess the condition of the planting material, reject the bad one, and prepare the normal one for germination.
After inspection, the cuttings are placed in a container with melt water for 1-2 days.
Long vines are cut into cuttings with 2-3 eyes.
Pruning the grape cuttings under the lower bud.
The shanks, cut from the fall, update the bottom cuts... They are made directly under the lower nodes - obliquely or on a wedge. They work with a sharp knife, without squeezing the tissues. The cut branches are immediately placed in a container with a small layer of water at the bottom.
Some growers remove the lower bud, but there is little need for this.
The upper sections (height above the kidney 2–4 cm) are not renewed. They are dipped in liquid paraffin (or wax) melted in a water bath and cooled.
Furrowing provokes root development.
Roots are best formed in places where callus is inflated on wound surfaces.
This phenomenon can be provoked. In the lower part of the shanks, several longitudinal grooves are scratched with a knife, deepening to the cambium or wood.
The length of the wounds is approximately 3-6 cm.
Soaking cuttings in a root stimulant solution.
The lower part of the cuttings (the lower node and part of the lower internode) is dusted with Kornevin or soaked in one of the liquid root stimulants (solution Heteroauxin, Zircon, Potassium Humate, HB-101 and others - according to the instructions).
A rooting stimulant is available at every gardening store.
The stalk is now ready for rooting. You can do without preliminary work, but they are all aimed at maximum success.
Kilchevanie is the creation of a temperature difference in the upper and lower parts of the cutting: heat from below and coolness from above. When kilchevaya, the chances of rooting increase.
An important problem in the germination of grapes is the awakening of the buds before the roots grow. Often, the stalk throws out greens, is depleted and dies, not having time to take root. Kilchev helps to overcome this problem. In practice, at home, it is carried out different ways.
Before planting in a container with soil, cuttings sometimes first germinate - until callus and small roots appear (from 2 to 10 mm). The process takes about 3 weeks in a well-lit place (no direct sunlight). Germination can be combined with kilchevaya or carried out independently. There are various options.
The substrate and fabric are regularly moistened, the appearance of roots is monitored. They should not be allowed to outgrow. A length of 2 mm is sufficient for transplanting into soil pots. They are installed on a light, warm windowsill.
The cuttings have given roots and are ready for planting in containers with soil.
For growing seedlings of grapes with a closed root system, plastic cups are suitable, cut plastic bottles, nurseries.
The volume of the pot is from 0.5 to 1 liter (a little more is possible)... Drainage holes are required.
The soil mixture is selected light: sod land, compost, sand in equal proportions. The addition of peat is possible, but not sour.
The scheme of germination of the cuttings in a plastic bottle.
The cuttings are 45 days old, the kidney burst - rooting was successful. Now we grow the seedling before planting it on the street.
The grown seedlings are hardened on the balcony, window of a garden house or in a greenhouse at a temperature not lower than +10 degrees, avoiding freezing (negative temperatures). They are transplanted into the ground in May or June (according to the weather), covered with agrofibre from the scorching sun and temperature changes ( for 2-3 weeks).
Grapes can be propagated by seed and vegetative methods. The first is used quite rarely, mainly grapes are propagated by the vegetative method. Good results can be achieved using shanks - grape cuttings intended for planting.
Growing grapes from shanks at home
They must be prepared in the fall and planted at home in pots at the end of winter. In the spring, the sprouted cuttings must be transferred to the garden, having previously prepared the soil. By the fall, grape vines will already grow on your site.
All received at vegetative propagation plants are essentially cloning, so the resulting vine vines will be exact replicas of the mother plant and will have the same properties.
Grape shanks for growing at home can be bought or prepared on your own. If you chose the second option, you should follow a few simple rules:
To select cuttings, you must choose a healthy vine
To get a high-quality grape shank for planting, you must:
Storing grape cuttings in homemade containers
Cuttings prepared in this way must be sealed and stored in a cool place. For this, the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, cellar or basement is suitable. Please note that some of the shanks may not take root and die, so they need to be harvested with a margin. It is necessary to plant cuttings at home in late February or early March.
Correct procurement and storage of shanks is a key point, if everything was done correctly, the further process will not cause great difficulties.
For planting cuttings, you need to prepare containers for seedlings with a substrate. Usually plastic bottles with the top cut off are used for this. You can also take simple plastic cups... A good substrate for germinating grape cuttings can be obtained by mixing soil with sand, humus and sawdust.
Growing grape shanks in plastic bottles with the top cut off
There should not be excess moisture, watering will be done through the pallet, therefore, in the bottom of the glass, it is imperative to make holes with an awl for its outflow.
Before planting, you need to check the safety of the cuttings.
Before planting, you need to check the safety of the cuttings. Press down on it with a pruner:
Also, the safety of a grape shank can be checked by cutting it: a good seedling has a fresh cut has a light green color, the unusable will have black specks.
A good seedling has a fresh cut light green in color.
Cuttings suitable for planting must be soaked in water for several days. Then they must be placed in a tub with a root formation stimulator for a day.
Soaking grape cuttings in water
The shafts prepared in this way must first be placed in jars of water in order for the roots to germinate. You can put a 2-3 cm layer of cotton wool on the bottom of the can and pour the same layer of water on top. The roots should appear in a few weeks.
Sprouting grape cuttings in a jar of water
The room in which the seedling containers are located should be well lit. They are usually placed on a windowsill in a room that is best lit by the sun. Precisely because sunny weather usually comes with spring, it is recommended to plant grape cuttings not earlier than the end of February.
To help seedlings grow faster, you can place fluorescent lamps above the containers with the planted cuttings. Another option is to hang foil that will reflect light onto the containers.
Germination of grape cuttings on a windowsill
In order to ensure the best growth of grape cuttings planted in containers, you can use kilchevat: if the lower part of the shank is warm, roots form faster than buds.
If the glasses with seedlings are on the windowsill, under which there is a heating battery, the easiest way is to remove heat from it. To do this, you can put two bars on the window sill, and place a piece of plywood on top of them so that it protrudes beyond the edge of the window sill. The containers are placed on plywood. It will be heated by the air rising from the battery, and this will keep the lower parts of the containers warm.
There are also more complex options: for example, a terrarium heater can be used as a kilchevator. In any case, care must be taken that the temperature at the roots of the cuttings is no higher than 30-35 ° C.
Transplanted grape cuttings into the substrate
After the roots sprout, the cuttings must be planted in glasses with a substrate. It is necessary to plant it to a depth of 5-6 cm. If tall glasses made of plastic bottles are used, the substrate can be added to them so that the upper bud of the shank is at the level of the upper edge of the glass.
You can water every day or every two days. To do this, it is better to use warm water, pouring it into the pan. Another option is to water every five days, adding a glass of water (about 100 ml) at a time to the container.
In addition to regular watering, it is necessary to periodically loosen the soil and sometimes apply top dressing. As noted above, some of the shanks may not take root and die.
Sprouted grape cuttings should be planted in the garden in spring in pre-prepared soil. To do this, it is best to choose a well-lit area with loose soil.
Sprouted grape cuttings are planted in the garden in spring
In order for the grapes to take root well, you must:
Plant seedlings sprouted at home to a permanent place in May. It will be better if, before disembarking, you temper the shanks for 5 days, exposing them to the street. After planting the cuttings, the soil must be watered regularly so that it remains constantly moistened.
The grapes reproduce very well by cuttings. If you follow these guidelines, you can grow strong and healthy seedlings at home, ready to be transferred into the soil. By autumn, vines with a strong root system will grow from the cuttings planted in the garden.
If a gardener has a desire to propagate grapes on his own plot, then he can use two different ways... The first and easiest way is to buy seedlings in a special nursery. The second method, although labor-intensive, but more effective is the cultivation of grape cuttings in winter at home. The second method has several positive aspects that distinguish it favorably, namely, the gardener will be able to get grape seedlings of the desired variety, while such planting material is much more stable when compared with that acquired in the nursery. To grow high-quality cuttings on your own, you just need to put in a little effort.
Before planting the cuttings in a permanent place, you must first prepare them. Most gardeners do not have the necessary experience in this matter, because rarely has anyone done this before. The process of preparing grape cuttings is divided into several stages, each of which is of great importance:
In order to succeed in this business, you need to know all the basic rules for growing grape cuttings, as well as tricks and secrets.
In the fall, all weakened or damaged branches die off, therefore it is at this time of the year that it is recommended to harvest grape cuttings (shanks). When cutting them, you must adhere to several basic rules:
Remember that cutting the shanks at sub-zero temperatures is by no means possible. In this regard, if there are already frosts outside the window, then cuttings can be made only in next year... To cut the shanks, you need a pruner. Prepare a solution of copper sulfate and immerse the cuttings in it immediately after cutting them.
In order for the shanks to be preserved until spring, it is necessary to create for them the maximum favorable conditions... First of all, you need to divide the cuttings by grade. Then the cuttings of the same variety are tied together and placed in a separate polyethylene bag, which is then wrapped very tightly. It should be noted that you will have to save the grape shanks until spring. The point is that exactly at the beginning spring period they are planted in open ground. There are several places where you can store grape cuttings quite successfully:
In the process of storing the shanks in winter time various problems may arise, in this regard, it is necessary to systematically inspect them. In the event that you notice that the buds on the stem began to swell, this means that in the place of their storage heat... If this is a refrigerator, then you just need to lower the temperature, otherwise move the cutting to a place where it is colder.
In the case when the grape shanks are well preserved, they can be quickly and easily prepared for planting in open soil. First of all, you will need to inspect each grape cuttings, and you need to remove those of them that are unsuitable for growing. To understand whether the shank is suitable for planting or not, you can make a transverse cut on it. Examine the incision site. In the event that it remains completely dry, then such a cutting can be thrown away, the fact is that it is completely dry and will not be able to give either roots or buds. In a good growable shank, moisture should come out of the cut. You also need to carefully examine the color of the cut. In the event that the stalk has spent the whole winter in favorable conditions for it, then its cut should be painted in a rich green color. Examine the cut carefully, as there should not be a variety of inclusions.
After you have thoroughly examined the grape shanks and graded them, you can begin the procedure that will wake them up. Take a container of the required volume and fill it with lukewarm water. Then dip the grape cuttings into it. They will have to stay in the water for at least two days. After that, prepare a solution of an agent that stimulates the growth of roots (you can buy it at a specialty store). When you take the shanks out of the water, they must be immediately immersed in this solution.
This stage is the very last and at the same time it is very important. In order to germinate cuttings, gardeners use two methods, so you can choose the one that suits best:
Both of these methods are quite effective. However, in order to successfully grow grape shanks, they need to provide systematic watering, as well as good lighting. It is possible to transplant cuttings into open ground only after they have formed roots and the first foliage has grown.
Growing grapes from seeds at home does not always give a good result, and seedlings purchased from nurseries or markets may be of inadequate quality. The best option for those who want to get healthy planting material is propagation by cuttings. Plants obtained in this way root well, but preparation and caring for them require certain rules. How to grow grapes from cuttings for planting to produce a large amount of green foliage and a rich harvest?
The first and main stage of growing grapes is the preparation of cuttings, or shanks, as experienced growers call them. It is best to do this in the fall, before the first frost, when the plants have completely shed their leaves. The branches that will be used for subsequent reproduction are best taken from the middle of the bush - they should be as straight as possible, without curved shapes, the optimal thickness is 7-10 mm.
Particular attention should be paid to the branches that bore large fruits. It is not recommended to use diseased or sterile bushes and so-called fattening branches with a thickness of more than 12 mm for harvesting. The procedure is carried out on a cloudy day or in the early morning before the sun comes out using a clean, sharp pruner.
Grape shanks are stored in different ways. If there are few shoots, you can store them in the refrigerator - make a container from two plastic bottles and put them in the bottom drawer, where vegetables usually lie. When stored in the basement, the material is sprinkled with fresh sawdust, river sand or moss - it has good antimicrobial properties, prevents the appearance of pathogenic microorganisms and fungal spores.
Another storage method is in a trench dug on the site. The place must be dry, but at the same time protected from direct sunlight. You need to dig a trench about 50 cm deep, put the shafts there and sprinkle it with soil, and make drainage grooves around.
The temperature must be maintained at 5-6 ° C, but not higher, otherwise the shoots will germinate ahead of time. The planting material should be inspected from time to time for the appearance of mold and drying out of the sections, from time to time turn them over to the other side. Good quality cuttings suitable for growing should be green in the cut, free from defects, rotten or dried out areas.
Important! Cuttings are inexpensive and effective method growing grapes, but it has one significant drawback. Fruiting will have to wait long enough, since the grown bushes will only yield the next year.
grape cuttings
You need to start preparing grape cuttings for planting in mid or late February. They need to be carefully examined, first of all, to check the sections. If liquid oozes from them, the shoots will most likely not germinate, as well as completely dry branches. Only those cuttings with a green cut, without blackness and mold, on which moisture appears after pressing, are suitable for further germination.
To accelerate the emergence of roots and the development of seedlings, they need to be rooted in one of the available ways, having previously kept them in warm water for two days, changing the water daily. You can add to it aloe juice, honey or special growth activator... Some experienced growers argue that without this procedure, the chubuki may not germinate at all, so it is not recommended to ignore it.
Table 1. Methods for rooting grape cuttings.
| Rooting method | Description |
|---|---|
In the water (watering) | IN glass jars put a layer of cotton wool 2 cm thick, pour a little light pink solution of potassium permanganate or water with a slice of charcoal. Place the shanks in the container, and on top create a greenhouse effect using a plastic bag and place them so that the lower part of the can is warm, and the upper, on the contrary, is cool. At home, such a microclimate is obtained using bottles filled with water of different temperatures. The advantage of this method is that it activates the development of roots, and the formation of buds, on the contrary, slows down |
| Pour drainage on the bottom of liter containers, lay on top a substrate of humus, clean river sand (you can replace it with perlite or vermiculite) and garden soil, previously steamed. Place the shoots in the bottom layer in the ground and water well |
In peat tablets | Moisten the peat tablets well, place the cuttings in the lower part, and wrap the upper part in a moist natural cloth and wrap it with cellophane |
About what they are peat tablets and how to use them for growing seedlings and seedlings, you can find out by reading on our website.
Grape cuttings should be placed in a place with good lighting and make sure that the bottom is constantly moist. After about two weeks, the shoots need to be examined - growths should appear on them, from which roots will subsequently appear. If there are no changes, the cuttings should be left for another 2, for a maximum of 3 weeks.
Attention! For growing vineyards in the middle lane, it is better to choose local varieties - some varieties of crops growing in the south are more capricious and require special conditions.
After the roots grow up to 0.5-2 cm long, they need to be transplanted to a temporary place, otherwise, when planted in open ground, the roots will get tangled, and they can easily be injured. To do this, you need to take large plastic bottles or buckets, make several holes at the bottom for moisture outflow. The soil mixture can be made up of leafy soil, sand and humus, the optimum acidity level is 6.5-8 pH. Plant the cuttings so that the upper sprouted eye is above the ground, the planting depth is about 7-10 cm.
Watering the seedlings should be very careful so that the young roots do not rot. The temperature must be high enough (at least 15 ° C) - in such conditions, moisture evaporates normally and does not stagnate. The average frequency of watering is once a week, pour no more than 100 ml of water for each bush. In cool rooms, watering is necessary when the leaves and buds of the plants are slightly sagging, signaling that there is not enough moisture.
Advice! If root decay does occur, you can try to save the seedlings. To do this, cut the spoiled part to living tissues, then put them in water, and after new roots appear on the stem, repeat the procedure.
It is necessary to plant grape cuttings in May or early summer, when the threat of late frosts is over. For planting, it is better to choose a well-lit place, closed from wind and drafts on the southern side of the site - the more light and heat, the sooner the bunches will appear. There should be a support next to which the grapes will cling to with antennae - a fence, a net or a special trellis.
The main requirements for the soil are low acidity and normal air permeability. It is important that there is no stagnant water on the site, otherwise you will have to prepare for planting high beds... The procedure for planting cuttings is simple, but it requires compliance with a number of conditions.
Table 2. Instructions for planting grape cuttings on the site.
| Sequencing | Description |
|---|---|
| Clear the area from weeds, dig a hole 50 cm deep |
| Lay drainage at the bottom, cover with humus on top, spill with water at room temperature heated in the sun |
| Carefully take out the stalk so as not to damage the root system and the earthen lump, place the plant and cover it with soil 40 cm so that the upper bud is above the ground |
| Water the planted cuttings well with warm water, tamp and mulch the soil |
| If the weather outside is cool, you need to cover the ground around the perimeter of the holes with oilcloth, and in sunny weather provide them with shading for 2-3 weeks |
Attention! Agricultural technology provides for different planting schemes for different grape varieties. For technical varieties used in the preparation of wine and juice, the distance is 80 cm, between table varieties - 1.5 m.
Young plants, especially during the rooting period, require careful care, which consists in watering, mulching, feeding and other events.
As a rule, grape cuttings take root well and begin to grow actively, after which they bear fruit. Problems are possible with improper storage of planting material, violation of rooting rules, improper use of growth stimulants and fertilizers (excessive amount of nitrogen).
Propagation by cuttings- simple and affordable way grow grapes on your site, and if you follow the rules for caring for plantings, the bushes will delight you with a rich harvest.
Growing grapes is a complex and multi-stage procedure. There are several ways to grow this berry on your personal plot... One of them - with the help of cuttings, or shanks. Consider how you can grow this crop at home using small and properly prepared seedlings.
The word "chubuk" is of Turkic origin, and was borrowed into the Russian language during the reign of the Golden Horde in our open spaces. The literal translation of this word is "thin twig or stick".
Interestingly, the word has several other meanings: a bighorn sheep with hollow horns, a wooden hollow rod on which a smoking pipe is placed, and a grape seedling or stalk. 
In this article, we will focus specifically on grape shanks and the method of increasing the number of grape bushes on the site using their number.
Chubuk in gardeningis a segment of a vine with multiple buds on it.
This method of growing grapes is the simplest, most reliable and even beginners can do.
If the planting material is properly prepared, it will speed up the first harvest on a new vine.
Future seedlings are cut in the fall from a one-year-old vine, after the first frost, when the grapes are routinely pruned. This is done from about the end of October to the beginning of December.
It is during this period that the vine contains the optimal amount of sugars, starch and other nutrients.
Also, by this time, the vine has already been hardened by temperature conditions from +5 to -5 degrees. 
The most suitable vine for harvesting is fruit... It is desirable that this be a whip that brought large clusters, well developed and about the thickness of a pencil (6-8 mm).
Important! To avoid infection, cut the workpieces from the vine with a clean and sharp knife.
Cuttings from 50 to 70 centimeters long are cut with an oblique cut, about 2-3 centimeters above the node. Material is harvested from a healthy plant.
To do this, it is necessary to conduct a preliminary study so that there are no traces of a dangerous fungal disease of grapes on the branches, as well as traces of damage from hail and other defects.
Healthy branches should be golden straw or light brown in color. They are firm to the touch and should crackle when bent.
After harvesting the shanks, it is important to remember that they should not be left outdoors for a long time.... They can lose up to 2% moisture per day. And if the losses amount to 35%, then the survival rate of each cutting will drop to half. To achieve the preservation of moisture, it is necessary even during the preparation of the material to ensure that the antennae or the stem of the bunch remain at each end of the cut - there is a protective membrane in these internodes that prevents the loss of moisture.
The next step after cutting the shanks is to soak them.... For this, the workpieces are placed in a bucket of water for several hours (from 6 to 8). They can be soaked as they are cut from the bush, after placing a bucket of water in the vineyard. 
After soaking, the planting material should be slightly ventilated, then it is desirable to treat it with a biological product with high fungicidal and bactericidal activity.
Important! Cuttings left in the sun lose almost all their moisture in a few hours, so there can be no question of their survival.
After all the above stages of harvesting the shanks, you need to decide by what method you want to preserve them during hibernation. Here are some of them:
Now let's take a look at each method separately.
It is permissible to store grape cuttings in the refrigerator if you have few of them, and at the same time there is no basement or the ability to store them in the ground. For this:
When harvesting a large number of cuttings, you can store them in the ground. To do this, you need to choose the right storage location.
In this case, a low-lying place, as well as a depression, where moisture from the snow thawed in spring can collect, is not suitable. The right place there may be a hill on the site. So, your actions with this storage method:
If your yard has a cellar or basement, then it is better to store prepared shanks in it.
Here's the storage process:
Did you know? Jesus Christ in the Bible symbolically called himself the true vine.
The optimal indicators for the winter hibernation of the vine is considered to be a temperature from 0 to +5 degrees. If you withstand such a working temperature, then the cuttings will have enough carbohydrates for more than six months. But if it is warmer in the basement, then the reserves of nutrients will only last for 3-4 months.
After hibernation, cuttings must be prepared for germination.
In February, the shanks must be removed from the storage area and carefully examined. High-quality cuts of grape branches should be elastic and moist, and the cuts themselves should be bright green.
As already mentioned, after wintering, you need to carefully examine the branches and carry out the necessary processing. If they are dry or mold has formed on them, then you need to take the necessary measures: the mold from the grape segments is removed by wiping them with a cloth or a soft-bristled brush.
If the bark is wrinkled and crumbling, then you need to soak the vine in a stimulator for 2 days.
After soaking, you need to get the shanks out of the solution and cut off the excess part from them on both sides: above the upper kidney - with an oblique cut at a distance of 3 cm above it, and in the lower one - with an even cut just below the internode. The middle kidney is usually removed.
After the pruning procedure, place each piece in a separate container or jar of water for further germination. The water in the vessels should be at a constant level - under the lowest kidney and in no case close it (up to 3 cm).
To do this, you need to monitor this regularly and add water as needed to the desired level.
In order to wake up the root system from hibernation, add to the water. It will also be useful to add activated carbon so that the water in the containers does not stagnate. Then the dishes with the material should be placed on the windowsill on the south side, where there is a lot of sunlight.
Did you know? On our planet, about 80 thousand square kilometers are occupied by orchards with vineyards.
You can additionally create greenhouse conditions for seedlings if you put a plastic bag on each of them: the humidity in such a bag will be higher than in the room.
To speed up the rooting of shafts, containers with them can be placed on a warm base, for example, on a sheet of metal, which is placed on top of a radiator battery. At the same time, the temperature in containers with blanks should be no higher than 25 degrees.
After 5-8 days (depending on the variety), the buds will begin to bloom in the cuttings, and after another week, the roots will appear. Roots should not be allowed to overgrow by more than 1 centimeter, since longer roots may break off during planting. 
Now it's time for intermediate sprouting of the shanks before planting them in open ground.
The most suitable time for temporary planting of shanks is the beginning of April.... Enough time will pass until the moment when they can be planted in open ground. During this period, the planting material will take root well and will be hardened.
Plant material in any suitable container with an optimal volume of 0.5-1 liter. For this, the following are suitable:
Now about the composition of the land mixture for filling containers (all in 1 part):
Cuttings are planted like this:
The success of grape cultivation largely depends on knowledge and adherence to cultivation technology, as well as on the correct selection of zoned varieties. Grapes can be effectively propagated by both seed and vegetative methods. For the selection of new varieties, sowing by seeds is used. In the home garden, grapes are bred only by vegetative methods: layering, grafting and cuttings. At the same time, the most convenient, cheap way of mass cultivation of grapes is growing from cuttings. Usually green summer or woody winter are used.
Reproduction of grapes is propagated in two popular ways: by seeds, by a vegetative method.
Harvesting grape cuttings should be carried out in the fall (September - October) from healthy bushes. The thickness of the vine for grafting should be 7-10 mm. Sections of 60-55 cm long are cut, containing from 4 to 5 buds, and leaves and tendrils are removed. The lower cut of the cutting is made under the knot, and the upper cut is 2 cm above the eye. Prepared cuttings are soaked in water for a day, then disinfected with a solution of copper sulfate. Sections should be dipped in molten paraffin wax or wax to prevent moisture loss.
The grape cuttings treated in this way are placed in marked plastic bags and stored in a cool place with a temperature of 0 to +5 degrees. Some keep cuttings right on the site in a hole about 80 cm deep, covered with sand and earth on top.
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Cuttings of grapes must be planted on acceleration in late January-early March.
The optimal time for planting cuttings for rooting: late January - early March. We take the cuttings out of the storage area, evaluate their safety and quality. The cut of the vine should be green, free from black spots and mold. On the selected cuttings, the sections are updated with a sharp knife from the bottom 5 mm from the lower kidney, from the top obliquely from the kidney and 1-2 cm higher. In the lower part of the cuttings, 3-4 grooves 3 cm long are made with a knife or needle, cutting through the bark to the bast. Furrowing promotes the growth of additional roots.
After soaking, it is advisable to treat them with a root growth stimulator. For this, a solution of heteroauxin, sodium humate, fumar, humisol, as well as honey (1 tablespoon is needed for 10 liters of water) or aloe juice (for 1 part of juice - 2 parts of water) are suitable. The cuttings are placed in the lower part of this solution for a day.
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At this time, you need to prepare a kilchevator - a device that provides pre-planting preparation of cuttings. The principle of its work: creating an increased temperature in the lower part of the cutting in the area of root formation, and a lower temperature at the top. The goal is to accelerate root formation and slow leaf growth. There are many designs of this device with electric heating or the use of natural heat formers (manure, compost).
Growing grapes requires a lot of attention and adherence to technology.
The simplest kilchevator at home is obtained from plastic containers, for example, bottles. We cut off the top of the bottle, make drainage holes at the bottom. We fill the resulting containers 3-4 cm with disinfected pine sawdust, place the cuttings vertically in them and fill them with sawdust and the upper eye. You can put 5 - 7 cuttings in one bottle. For effective kilchevka, you need to place the bottles so that the bottom temperature is 22 - 25 degrees, and the top is cool air, for example, on a radiator by the window.
Cuttings rooted in a kilchevator with emerging leaves are planted in prepared pots with a mixture of fertile soil and sand or immediately in a school. The term for planting seedlings in the ground, in a school or in a permanent place is June - early July.
Another effective way to grow planting material is by rooting the seedlings in paper cups. It provides a high survival rate of cuttings. Used paper cups (no bottom) 15 - 20 cm high, 6 - 7 cm in diameter. They are filled with a soil mixture containing humus and sand. The prepared cuttings are placed in cups up to the upper eye. Cups with cuttings in a pallet are placed on the windowsill of a sunny window. Watered with warm (25-30 °) water every other day. After 2 - 3 weeks, leaves begin to appear, after 4 - 6 weeks the roots. To obtain in this way full-fledged seedlings of European-Asian varieties, 45 - 50 days are enough. For planting in a place or in a school, the seedlings are ready by May 5-10, in the middle lane, planting is carried out after May 25.
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Planting cuttings in a school
Shkolka is a section of a nursery where grapes are grown from cuttings, with subsequent transplantation to a permanent place. Cuttings in the school are arranged in rows every 10 - 15 cm. The distance between the rows is at least 30 cm. This method is most often used in industrial viticulture, when it is necessary to grow a large number of seedlings.
The area for the school should be well lit by the sun and ventilated from all sides. For better rooting and development of seedlings, the land should be light. In April, the soil is dug to a depth of about 40 cm, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied.
If the harvesting was not carried out, before planting in the school, it is necessary to stratify the cuttings. They are wrapped in a damp cloth and left in a warm, well-lit room (20-25 ° C). In two weeks, the bulk of the buds should bloom. After that, they choose the best ones and put them in a school.
Kilchevanie allows cuttings to ripen faster for further planting in the ground.
Planting begins after the soil warms up above 10 ° C. Cuttings suitable for planting are immersed with the lower end in a clay solution with the addition of heteroauxin (0.01 - 0.02%) to stimulate the development of the root system. With sufficient moisture in the school, it is recommended to carry out a shallow planting for better heating of the roots in the spring.
In most viticultural regions, cuttings are buried no more than 30 - 35 cm. In the prepared soil, furrows are made 40 cm deep and a shovel wide. Cuttings are placed along one of the groove walls at a distance of 12-15 cm from each other. The groove is half filled with soil, tamped tightly, watered abundantly, and after the water is absorbed into the soil, the groove is finally filled up, leaving 1 - 2 buds on the surface. From above, an earthen roller is formed above the upper bud by 10-12 cm. The next row is made at a distance of less than 30 cm from the previous one. After planting the cuttings, the soil is loosened again, and after 1 - 2 days, additional watering is recommended.
The planting of cuttings in the school must be completed before May 10 - 15. With a later planting, there will be less time for the shoots to ripen, and they may freeze in the fall.
