17238 0 0
If I need to build any structure with increased strength characteristics, then in I take a profile pipe as the main material... Why? The answer to this question and also illustrative examples use of such interesting material at home you can find further in the article.
I'll start, perhaps, with how a pipe with a rectangular cross section is generally obtained:
Beware of buying products from small private firms for serious projects, as they very often lack the third stage of processing, as a result of which the pipes do not have the strength that you will count on.
So why do I prefer to erect metal structures from a shaped pipe, and not from a cylindrical one? In this case, we are not talking about pipelines, but about structures that perform functions other than the transportation of liquids. It's all about stiffener, which does not allow the product to bend, squeeze and undergo other deformations that can be caused by mechanical stress of any kind.
Thus, if, for example, we put pressure on an ordinary pipe, then we get the following result:
That is, the cross-section of the sample will simply change its shape to an oval one, or some other shape. This will depend on the direction of the forces acting on it. Rounded walls will not offer decent resistance. In general, this is the result, in fact, we observe at the second stage of creating profile products.
The presence of a flat stiffener allows the pipe withstand mechanical pressure completely preserving its shape:
And now I want to bring together the advantages of this type of products coming from all the described advantages:
If you plan to mount a structure that is intended to be in the open air, then I recommend choosing profiled galvanized or stainless steel pipes for this purpose. Although they are more expensive, they will effectively protect the structure from atmospheric precipitation and other possible contacts with water that are harmful to metal.
It is controversial, not just negative. We are talking about the complexity of bending products with a rectangular section, which is hindered by the very same stiffener. That is, the most important advantage of profiled pipes in this situation presents some complications, but:
If you are going to create a structure with rounded shapes, then this stage of assembly work will definitely be on your way to achieving your goal. Therefore, I will analyze it separately.
There are several methods for bending a profile pipe, choose the one that is most convenient for you:
I recommend purchasing the described machine if you plan to manufacture some structures in large quantities for the purpose of their subsequent sale. Then it will quickly pay off and, with successful marketing, it will even start making a profit.
So, now, finally, you can go to the very examples of structures that I already had the opportunity to build at different times:
It is quite simple to build scaffolding with your own hands from a profile pipe, and here it is quite possible to do with ordinary steel, since after performing high-rise work, the structure will be again disassembled and hidden in the utility block. For the same reason, you should also not use a welding machine, as this will cause problems with dismantling, bolts will be enough.
I used samples with sections of the following dimensions:
Work progress:
When I am on such a structure, I feel absolutely confident, which is incredibly important when performing high-altitude work.
A do-it-yourself stepladder from a profile pipe is also made quite simply, but its value in household difficult to overestimate. In this case, I used:
He acted like this:
If you plan to operate the ladder indoors, I recommend inserting plastic plugs into the ends of the pipes from below. This will help keep your floors from scratching.
Do-it-yourself gates from a profile pipe are boiled, since such a structure is erected once for many years, and there is no point in drilling and bolting it in this case. An approximate work plan looks like this:
Many, for sure, first met desks and chairs made of shaped pipes back in school. Yes, such items of furniture interior cannot be called very beautiful, but they can easily withstand all the "horrors" that schoolchildren have been subjected to for many years. So, if you need a table that can withstand significant loads, then the choice is obvious.
By the way, if you wish, it will even be possible to give it some aesthetics, by complicating the structure of the frame and applying decorative trim.
The easiest way to get a solid desk is as follows:
Almost any furniture can be made in this way. That is, it is enough to take any drawing where it is envisaged to use, for example, wood or plastic, and replace the frame material in it with shaped pipes.
Speaking about small architectural structures, I mean gazebos, which you can use to equip your own suburban area. By the way, bent elements are most often needed here. Rectangular pipes are easily assembled into the desired design, representing as a result a reliable "house" for your household needs, which can easily withstand any atmospheric phenomena and other possible loads.
I will not dwell here in detail, since general technology assembling "skeletons" for small buildings is very similar to assembling scaffolding, gate, stepladder and furniture that I have already described above. Is that something like this can be added structural element as a foundation, but it has nothing to do with the topic of the article, and in most cases it is not necessary for metal structures.
The profile pipes are very easy to use, and from them it is easy to assemble the most various designs... But all of them will have something in common, namely, incredibly high strength and resistance to any aggressive mechanical influences. The main thing is to get a drawing, a "grinder" and a drill with bolts or a welding machine, and the rest, as they say, is "a matter of technology."
The video in this article will allow you to familiarize yourself with some additional information, which is directly related to the stated topic. If you have any questions regarding the material you have read, ask them in the comments.
July 30, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!
Profile pipe is a very versatile material. In addition to its widest use in industry, the pipe is actively used in private construction. When erecting small forms, craftsmen give preference to a material of a smaller section than in industrial use. The most popular are pipes with a cross section of 100x50 and 80x80 mm, from which frames for houses, outbuildings, gazebos and sheds are constructed. Fences with gates are also erected from shaped pipes. In addition, recently, furniture from a profile pipe, which is made from thin-walled elements with a section of 40x25 or 20x20 mm, has been very popular. How to make a table and a chair from a profile pipe, we will tell you in our today's article.
It is not surprising that profile pipes are so actively used for the construction of country and home furniture - they have a number of indisputable and significant advantages.
The only drawback of a profile pipe is the difficulty in obtaining a bend. However, this problem can be solved: in the absence of a machine tool, the element can be given a given curvature by filling with sand during bending.
Good start: the simplest table
If you have never taken up the manufacture of furniture from this material, we advise you to start with the most primitive option. Maybe it is not very aesthetic, but you can practice on it at work, and then use it as a workbench or give it under the schoolchild's desk - teenagers simply “burn” furniture, and even a hyperactive child will not be able to break such a table.
To cut the elements you need a grinder
Any other product can be made in a similar way. The only thing that is required for initial stage furniture making - detailed drawing... All parts in it can initially be wooden; you simply replace them with elements from shaped pipes.
For craftsmen who have reached perfection: the loft-style table
In case of a lack of space in the room or unwillingness to clutter up the space in the room, we propose to build a two-legged table "fastened" to the wall. The manufacturing principle is the same, with some deviations from the topic.
Advice from experienced craftsmen: If you intend to use furniture made of shaped pipes in the house, buy attachments on the legs from the hardware store so as not to spoil the flooring.
Original solution: side table
A table without seating is of little use. The simplest of these is a stool. In principle, its manufacture is generally consistent with the already described algorithm. However, for greater strength and ease of use, some subtleties must be taken into account when drawing up a drawing.
When you master the manufacture of stools, you can move on to the production of chairs and even armchairs. The base remains the same (if you made a stool with straight legs). To get a chair, it is enough just to cut one of the pairs of uprights to a greater length and take care of the crossbars between the backrest supports.
Making armchairs will require more complex calculations. All the legs will have to be lengthened, but one pair is larger, the other, which will serve as armrest stands - less.
Bar stools at the bottom should have an extra frame
With experience, the master is able to make a solid dining set
For suburban area, if you spend a lot of time on it and like to have some tea in the fresh air, a table with a bench, made of profile pipes with your own hands, would be a good solution. The set can be placed both directly in the garden and in the yard next to the house.
To make such a set, you will need:
Of the tools, a grinder, a drill with metal drills, a welding machine, and a tape measure are useful. Step by step production is as follows.
The last step is the fixation of the stops with the axes and the expansion of the pipe ends.
It is also a very popular idea: such tables and chairs are very cheap, and they can be moved without difficulty at all, since they are made of extremely lightweight material. Craftsmen from plastic pipes are able to assemble anything from a shelving unit to a bunk bed. But it is still recommended to start with something extremely simple. For example, an elementary stool consisting of a base frame with legs and a seat. If you wish, you can turn it into a chair by lengthening one pair of uprights, as we did when making furniture from shaped pipes.
Stages of work:
The final touch is to check the structure for strength. If desired, a pillow is tied to the seat for the comfort of spending time on the chair.
With your own hands, furniture made of plastic pipes can be made collapsible using fittings. This option is especially successful for summer cottage use: when cleaning for storage, tables, chairs and other furniture will take up a minimum of space.
Having mastered the basic techniques of working with plastic pipes, you will be able to make real masterpieces.
A rocking chair will require a high degree of craftsmanship
In modern times, people are increasingly resorting to the idea of making an interior with my own hands, because it helps to save family budget and show your creativity. Today, a drywall table can be found quite often, because this material is relatively inexpensive and has the necessary technical characteristics indicating that such a piece of furniture will last a long time.
The structure of the curly plasterboard worktop
To make a computer desk out of drywall with your own hands, you should think over each stage of your actions in detail. The stages of work are as follows:
A variant of the design and design of a computer desk made of plasterboard
In order for the table to be used for many years, it is imperative to make a frame for drywall. This technology is used both for or, and in order to qualitatively carry out the installation of a computer table. The sequence of actions is as follows:
When the right time has passed, you can begin to design your computer desk. This will require special equipment and materials for drywall, which will help to cut out parts of the correct shape and smooth out irregularities formed during the cutting of sheets. Stages of frame sheathing:
The finished table can serve not only as a computer, but also as a writing table. The video shows the process of plastering a table with plasterboard.
When there are left, which are a pity to throw away and are difficult to apply somewhere, you can think about creating a coffee table with your own hands. Such a piece of furniture will add coziness to the room and help to comfortably spend time in your own fortress.
Installation, assembly and sheathing is carried out according to the same principle as for a computer desk. Naturally, Coffee table has slightly different parameters and sizes.
Each owner of a living space will be able to independently calculate how much material and what accessories will be needed for installation.
To assemble a drywall table with your own hands, you will need the following tools and material:
These materials will help to fully complete the work on creating a computer, writing or coffee table.
Plasterboard coffee table To give the interior item a complete look, it is worth considering what the table trim will be. Drywall is a material that takes on its arrays different kinds finishes. Most often, a drywall table:
Plasterboard table finish option To give aesthetics and character to the finished piece of furniture, you should think about the decor. This process is carried out using stones, patterns made through a stencil, wooden forms. Each owner of an apartment or house will be able to independently think about what the finished coffee or computer table will look like. Making a piece of furniture with your own efforts is exciting and interesting, besides, a dream table is being constructed, which will not be banal and special.
Necessary materials:
1. Lumber;
2. A sheet of plywood with a thickness of 1.5 cm;
3. Beam;
4. Nails, screws and plugs for them;
5. Joiner's glue;
6. Epoxy resin (5-7 liters);
7. Masking tape;
8. Metal profile (about 9 m);
9. Spray paint (for metal);
10. Oilcloth and other materials.
Preparing the boards
The trims of the boards must be sorted, different in color and texture must be chosen so that they look harmonious on the tabletop. If the boards are taken from old pallets, all nails, fasteners and other unnecessary elements must be carefully removed.
The boards selected for the table top must be cut into equal boards, small in width (3-5 cm). The length is not important - the excess will still be cut off. The boards are laid out in the order in which they will lie. The base for the table top is plywood. Having cut off the sheet according to the estimated dimensions of the table, you need to glue the boards one by one. Along the perimeter, unnecessary segments are eliminated to get an even rectangle.
The pattern will be more interesting if you alternate between dark and light boards. You need to wait for the glue to set. If desired, you can nail the boards with finishing nails.<
Frame
After all the boards have taken their place, you need to make a frame from the pieces of timber. It should protrude slightly above the level of the countertop, since it will act as a side when pouring resin. The timber - the base of the frame - is cut at an angle of 45 degrees. All parts are connected.
First, the timber is set on glue, and then fastened to the self-tapping screws. For a stronger connection with the base, holes for self-tapping screws are drilled. Plugs are placed on the self-tapping screws in the corners, and all joints are putty to be invisible. The surface of the countertop becomes even.
Table support
The legs for the table top can be purchased separately, or you can do it yourself - welded from the metal profile. Having decided on the dimensions of the support, the profile is cut into equal segments.
First, the metal parts are welded in a U-shape. Two such parts are required. Strips are welded to the tops.
Having strengthened the spans with metal pipes, both elements are connected into one support. After welding, the seams must be cleaned and the entire structure painted with spray paint.
Table top fixing
Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in a metal support - at an equal distance from each other along the entire perimeter.
In order for the caps of the screwed-in screws to be "recessed", the resulting holes are countersinked.
To attach the tabletop to the support, the first is placed on the floor with the back side up. Places for fastening are marked on plywood. The support, also laid upside down, must be screwed onto the self-tapping screws to the tabletop.
Pouring resin
The table is placed in the correct position, placed on a support, on a flat surface. Epoxy will be poured into the recess of the countertop, formed along the perimeter of the frame.
To keep the floor clean during work, you should spread a film on it, and seal all cracks in the table with masking tape. It is advisable to carry out work in a warm and well-ventilated area.
Epoxy resin is prepared according to the instructions, observing safety precautions. The resin is poured onto the surface slowly, in an even layer of no more than 6 mm.
The mixture must be stirred, avoiding the formation of bubbles. If they are still formed - "drive away" them with the help of a gas burner.
After the base coat has hardened, the masking tape is removed. The monolithic table top is further processed. You need to apply several more layers, each of which dries for at least six hours.
All smudges and irregularities are polished. The table looks very original and is durable.
Original post in English
Professional processing and manufacturing of wooden parts is possible only with the use of a milling machine. You can fully use this tool in a special installation. This is the milling table. This setup is rare and the commercially available options are quite expensive. It makes no sense to spend a lot of money on the purchase of this design, since you can make it yourself.
The convenience of using a router located in the table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since it is not the milling cutter that moves along the surface to be treated, but the part moves relative to it. The milling cutter, fixed in the table, gives wider possibilities for processing parts. As a result, blanks are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide on the appearance and size. Consideration should be given to the possibility of modernizing the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable to use. The presence of boxes will create additional comfort in work
Compact DIY design will replace an industrial machine
There are three main types of milling tables:
For self-made countertops, they usually use MDF boards, pasted over with various plastic coatings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, lightweight and durable.
Wooden structure is easy to handle and use
Some craftsmen believe that a metal tabletop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will be an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. Also, the metal is susceptible to corrosion, so it must be painted.
The milling table covers must be smooth. They are often made from plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is impervious to moisture. Phenolic plastics lend themselves well to processing. This is very convenient when making grooves for an aluminum profile or when drilling holes for fastening a longitudinal stop. Like MDF, plywood and planks, these materials are reasonably priced.
In branded worktops, made of steel or aluminum, holes are already provided for a specific router model. If the produced models of countertops are made of MDF plates or plastic, then firms prepare only holes for the plates. Although this is not always the case.
There are holes in the base of the plate through which the router is fastened with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminum. The router plate must be installed flush with the worktop surface. If any part of the plate protrudes above the surface, workpieces will catch on it.
The table top is equipped with adjusting screws or other means to level the plate. It is better to choose an insert with replaceable rings. This is necessary in order to select the holes of the rings according to the size of the cutter diameter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the milling table working surface.
Convenient when selecting the cutter diameter
In milling operations, a rip fence is often required to guide the workpiece at the desired angle. For work to be done accurately, it must be flat along its entire length, located strictly perpendicular to the table surface, and easily reconfigured for different processes. The front parts of the stop can be made both solid and in the form of several overlays. To accumulate chips and debris, the side stop is equipped with a branch pipe. The hose of the vacuum cleaner is connected to it.
The front parts of the stop in the form of several fixable pads
The milling table can be upgraded with a bed into which the grinder will be fixed. You can read more about making this structure yourself.
To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden supports or between two pedestals. The easiest way to create a table top, support and parts for a milling table is to use MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The plate laminated on both sides will not warp during operation. In our case, in the manufacture of a milling table, we used:
The structure of the table top will consist of wooden parts that are cut from a solid 19 mm MDF board. Birch plywood can be used as a substitute for this material.
1 - working surface; 2 - the base of the stop; 3 - its wall of the stop; 4 - kerchief (4 pieces, dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsar (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting strip (4 pcs.)
Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not coincide with the specified parameters or be defective.
The plastic overlay will serve as a template for marking
The mounting holes must line up with the trim
Determination of its diameter
Measurements are taken from the edge of the lining sole
Using the overlay as a template
In the diagram, semicircular cuts are not made
Use carpentry or epoxy glue
1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on the goats; 2 - king; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with a countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - kerchief; 7 - the base of the stop
1 - outer side rack; 2 - inner rack; 3 - rear pillar; 4 - base
1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - the bottom of the structure; 4 - inner panel; 5 - rear rack
Allows the cutter to process parts as much as possible
Pre-drilled hole will make the process easier
The holes of the table top and the plate must match
Swivel and side stops make the process easy
The part is made of plywood
For convenience, wing nuts are used
Allows you to fix parts when processing small fragments
When working on a milling machine, accidents and injuries are possible from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of the processed parts flying off from it. Before starting the router, you need to remove the entire tool from the surface of the tabletop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. It is also possible to equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent the dispersion of particles.
While working at the table, cleaning and lubricating parts, removing the protective shield and measuring workpieces are not allowed. Protective goggles must be worn to avoid eye contact with emitted particles. This is especially true for high-speed milling or processing of bronze elements, cast iron or silumin.
It is necessary to embed the cutter into the part gradually. Power feed must be turned on before the part touches the cutter drill. During the rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable to place your hands close in the rotation zone of the tool. Before installing the drills, you need to make sure they are reliable and durable, as well as the integrity and correct sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips and cracks. If such defects are found, they must be replaced.
Thanks to the relatively inexpensive materials and your skill, you can build a compact milling table design. This will allow you to make parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.
