A boat on the farm may be needed not only for fishing, hunting or water recreation. In sparsely populated regions with a developed network of waterways, a boat is an essential item, and in populated areas, the production and leasing of watercraft is a profitable business. How boatmen make money in resorts, everyone knows that. However, in commercial classifiers, small boats do not belong to goods for which pricing is subject to regulation. Therefore, the question: is it possible at all, and how the boat is made with your own hands is quite popular. The answer to the first question is unambiguous: yes, and much simpler than commonly believed. A good, roomy, reliable and seaworthy boat can be made far from the water without a boathouse and slipway, in any room of a suitable size. And how - this article is about this.
In preparing materials for this publication, the books "300 tips on boats, boats and motors" were of great help. Compiled and scientific editor G. M. Novak L. Shipbuilding 1974, "Boats, boats and motors in questions and answers" Handbook ed. G. M. Novak. L. Shipbuilding 1977 and "Kurbatov DA 15 projects of ships for amateur construction" L. Shipbuilding 1986. The author expresses deep gratitude to the authors of these informative manuals. Further in the hints to the illustrations, they are designated "Н74", "Н77" and "K.", respectively. As for the years of publication, have the waters and winds changed since then? The current ships are built and sail according to the same laws, only modern materials and computer technology allows them to be used more fully.
The reader must have already asked questions: is it really that simple? Build - and swim? With your wife, kids, passengers, at sea in a storm? Depending on the circumstances, you may need a trail on a rigid hull boat. documents and supplies:
I must say that in non-navigable water bodies, violations under paragraphs. 1-3 are massive, and in sparsely populated areas - indiscriminate. The water inspectorate has neither legal nor organizational and technical capabilities to get there. Therefore, claims against the owner of the vessel arise or his criminal prosecution begins only on the fact of the consequences of the accident.
The designs of small vessels are countless, however, for an amateur-novice when choosing a prototype you need to follow the trail. considerations that a homemade boat must satisfy:
For the totality of qualities, except for the price of materials, optimal choice for its first ship there will be a plywood boat. The boardwalk will cost approx. half the price, but it will be as much heavier and will last much less, except for the version with a steel thin-walled bottom, see below. Homemade fiberglass boats are expensive and difficult to build, although reliable and durable. Taking into account all these conditions, the following are not further considered:
The grounds for such "truncation" are as follows. All-metal self-made vessels by the transport inspection bodies are not surveyed and not registered due to the fact that it is technically impossible to ensure their due reliability under artisanal conditions.
Building a speedboat is not a business for a beginner. The standard dynamic loads on the planing hull are high, and you can tackle it, making sure that your first boat still floats well. Although, I must say, with some experience, at home it is quite possible to build a go-kart boat, going to planing on a small wave under an engine of only 3.5-6 hp, see eg. track. video.
A small catamaran, it will be known to the reader, is easier to build than a boat of equal capacity, and the restrictions on the choice of materials for it are softer; eg foam can be used extensively. On the catamaran bridge (the platform connecting the float hulls) you can stand, walk, somersault as you like, there you can put up a tent and even cook a barbecue. However, a catamaran is not a boat and the question of homemade catamarans requires separate consideration.
Boat exotic made of scrap materials is simply dangerous. For example, a single-hull foam boat will turn out to be either something extremely fragile, suitable for sailing only in a “paddling pool”, or an almost uncontrollable raft, highly susceptible to drift by currents or wind.
As for inflatable boats, the enthusiasm for them is explained, in addition to being able to carry them, by the fact that in order to register a purchased “rubber” boat on a navigable water body, it is enough to present a manufacturer's certificate, and even then the water inspection turns a blind eye to it. However, this does not in any way apply to homemade inflatable boats.
At the same time, it is enough to look at the patterns of the simplest inflatable boat (see fig.) To make sure: it is much more difficult to glue its seams in artisanal conditions than to build a more capacious and reliable boat with a rigid hull, and quality soft plastic boat materials will cost a lot more than the best plywood and epoxy.
But the most important thing: without special equipment, it is generally impossible to reliably (without the possibility of inspection) glue the safety bulkheads into the cylinder. The self-made "rubber band" will be one-cylinder: suddenly there is a hole, and you are not in a life jacket, it is far from the shore, or the reservoir is heavily overgrown - you will only have to mentally summarize your life. For its end is near.
Note: if you certainly want not to build your boat, but to glue it, then it is better to make it from ... scraps water pipes... Such a boat cannot be blown away or hidden in a backpack, but it will be unsinkable. How is a boat made from PVC pipes, see the video below.
Plywood and plank boat structures that do not require construction working conditions, also set; people have been swimming since time immemorial. Let's try to figure out how to navigate this variety for a novice shipbuilder-navigator. For example, boats such as canoes (item 1 in the figure), kayaks, canoes or domestic shrimps are very popular, very seaworthy and at the same time are not afraid of overgrown shallow waters. However, to manage them you need not only experience - great art. In terms of the number of drowned people among newcomers, canoe-type boats are firmly in the top of the rating among small boats. In addition, such rigid-skinned boats are technologically complex, because their contours are double curvature.
The Russian fofan boat (pos. 2) is no less legendary in its reliability than the American dori (see below), but it is very stable, roomy, and a green salaga can drive it. The curved contours in the bow make the fofan well viable on a wave in full load, and together with the "pot-bellied" hull, gentle contours in the stern and a recessed transom, it is capable of quite quickly, up to 20 km / h or more, to go under a sufficiently powerful motor in a transitional (semi-displacement ) mode. But, as we can see, the contours of the fofan are also double-curved, and it is heavy: to turn the fofan, you need at least 2-3 strong men.
The Russian Tuzik recreational and fishing boat (pos. 3; Russian because there is also an American Tuzik dinghy boat, see below) is light, but again with double-curved contours. The same applies to the sea sailboat, pos. 5, although she is steadily keeping on course on a 4-point wave under sail, and it is possible to pull her ashore alone.
So, we have decided on one more requirement in a homemade plywood boat: its contours must be single curvature, i.e. the surfaces forming the body must be curved planes. For small quiet inland waters, the best choice would be a skiff-type punt boat, pos. 5. The Scythians in such conditions have established themselves as the most reliable ships. In addition, skiff boats are cheap, easy to build, lightweight: a 4-meter skiff with a galvanized bottom can be lifted and loaded by one person. An additional advantage for these sailing conditions is that the Scythians are excellently controlled on the current and in overgrown reservoirs. Water or algae simply have nothing to grab them.
Note: contrary to popular belief, a skiff boat can sail perfectly, see below. But - only on calm water! In the excitement, the skiff, like any shallow-sitting punt, becomes dangerous - the wave hits the bottom, knocking the ship off course and trying to overturn.
In somewhat more difficult sailing conditions, on waves up to 2-3 points, a dinghy boat will be optimal. In appearance, the dinghy is easily recognizable by the bow transom-forspiegel and the keeled (as they say, having a transverse V) bottom, pos. 6. The latter makes the dinghy easier to rise on the wave, and the forespill makes the ratio of capacity to overall dimensions and the dinghy's own weight is almost a record. Thanks to this, dinghy is the most popular weekend boat among residents of places far from the water: 2-3 seater dinghy on the upper trunk fits into the dimensions of a car, and can weigh less than 50 kg. Technologically, a dinghy is even simpler than a Scythian - it can be assembled by sewing plywood (see below) just on the floor in an apartment.
The dinghy under sail (pos. 7) is quite safe, but very versatile, and therefore an excellent vessel for initial sailing training. I learned how to manage this - you can safely go to the tiller / steering wheel and sheets of a large yacht. In the USSR, the Golden Fish dinghy was widely used to train teenage cadets in yacht clubs.
Note: in coastal areas, it is not uncommon to find seaworthy dinghyes. Outwardly, they look like a fofan squeezed along (pos. 8), but in fact, the hydrodynamics and mechanics of their body are almost the same as those of a dinghy with a forespiegel.
Finally, if you live by the sea or a large inland lake, know big water and want to finally build a boat for it with your own hands, then the choice should be stopped on Dori. Dori boats are truly ocean-going. Newfoundland fishermen used to catch and fish with them 280 and even 400 km from the coast. The seaworthiness and reliability of the dori are phenomenal: there are many cases when large reliable ships were wrecked in a severe storm, and the dori then returned home safely in the same waters.
Dori boats are known in 2 modifications: pure rowing bank and sailing (pos. 9). To manage a bank dori, you need to be a salted sailor through and through from childhood, because their static stability is low. Sailing dori are not so capricious, a beginner who knows the basics of the movement of a ship under sail is able to learn how to operate it. In addition, it is possible to install a motor in a well on a sailing dori. Equipping a boat with a motor well is, of course, more difficult than reinforcing the transom under the motor (see below), but the motor and propeller will be better protected from damage, and repairing the motor on the water will be possible without fear of drowning a part or tool.
To make a boat correctly, you need to choose a project that is technically competent and suitable for the given sailing conditions and available resources. To choose a project, you need to know at least the very basics of ship theory, small shipbuilding, navigation and maritime practice on small vessels. So let's start with theory.
The speed of a displacement vessel is determined by the Froude number Fr. Physically, it means that with an increase in Fr, the bow wavelength of the vessel grows rapidly, see fig .:
In this case, most of the power of the engine or the thrust of the sails is spent on maintaining it. The motor goes into the "fuel burn" mode, at the same time quickly burning up its resource, and the sail, as a rule, is not able to pull the ship by Fr> 0.3. Hence the important conclusion: do not try to increase the speed of the boat by placing an overly powerful motor on it. You will only make sailing more dangerous and you will burn the money for fuel in vain. If the recommended motor power is not indicated in the boat project, it can be determined from table. on the trail. rice.
Movement at a Fr value that is too large for a given hull is also dangerous: the boat may appear to be hanging on the crests of adjacent waves, or it will tend to move back from the bow wave and bury itself astern into the water. If, frightened by the wave that has risen in front of the bow, the gas is thrown off sharply, the boat will be flooded from the stern by the oncoming wave: once formed, the waves move according to their own laws.
The consumption of energy driving the ship for wave formation depends not only on the length, but also on the height of the waves generated. It can be reduced, firstly, by increasing the ratio of the ship's length to its width (the “length runs” rule), but at the same time its lateral stability and controllability decrease. Secondly, the rational construction of the hull contours: its front line along the frames (see below) should be as flat as possible. Thirdly, with a back-to-back sheathing (see pos. 2 and 4 in the figure with the types of boats). The ribs singing in the casing turbulize the boundary layer of water, preventing the nasal wave from swelling too much. This, by the way, is one of the secrets of the excellent speed of the combat boats of the Viking Drakkars and Shnekkars. Unfortunately, backed cladding is technologically complex, susceptible to water leakage and therefore requires regular inspection and maintenance.
The stability of the vessel is distinguished between static (at rest) and dynamic on the move. The stability of the vessel is determined by the interaction of the overturning moment, the force of which is applied to the center of gravity, and the restoring moment, the force of which is applied to the center of buoyancy C - the geometric center of the submerged part of the vessel.
The value of stability is determined by the elevation of the metacentre M above the center of gravity G (see Fig.). A vessel with a large excess of M over G will be very stable, but also very roll, with a sharp roll, i.e. overly stable. With a continuous increase in the roll angle Θ, the metacentre first "runs" upward from the center of gravity, and then moves back. When M is below G, the overturning moment will exceed the recovery moment and the boat will capsize. Corresponding the angle Θ for decked ships is called the sunset angle. The critical heel for undecked ships will be that at which the ship scoops sideways. Then Θ is called the pouring angle.
The stability rules are subject to the square-cube law. On the one hand, this is bad for small vessels, because a small craft turns out to be less stable than a large one of the same proportions. If a 5-meter boat goes with a critical list, then the roll of a 20-meter schooner in the same wind will not be dangerous, and a 70-meter barque is almost imperceptible. When in the old days the captains of sailing ships, trying to escape from the storm, ordered "to set sails as long as the masts can withstand," they knew what they were doing. But, on the other hand, for the same reason, the dynamic stability of a more or less correct small displacement vessel will be more static. In order for the boat, which is stable in the parking lot, to capsize on the move, its designer will have to try very hard in the opposite sense.
It is wrong to think that the ship is turning from the rudder. The vessel turns obliquely against the oncoming flow of water, and the rudder only helps it to be substituted under it, see fig. on right. True, with all due respect to the author of the original source, an inaccuracy crept in there: what is designated as the center of gravity of the CG is in fact the projection of the center of rotation of the CV on the main plane (see below). Hence, there is also an important conclusion: if the boat is poorly controlled, do not sin on a rudder that is too small. Its optimal area is approx. 3% of the cross-sectional area of the hull amidships, i.e. across the widest part. Check and, if it matches, then either you did something wrong, or you chose an unimportant project.
The position of the CG is determined by the interaction of the moments of forces applied to the CG and C already horizontally... In a perfectly steerable, non-bankable vessel, the CG is located exactly above C, which is what the designers are striving for. Hence another important conclusion: do not get carried away with the roll. Romantic but also dangerous because the boat's controllability decreases, which aggravates the danger of capsizing.
Yachtsmen sometimes say: sailing yacht it is an airplane with one wing in the air and the other in the water. In general, this is correct. Diagrams explaining the principles of vessel movement under an oblique sail, see fig. From there it is also clear why you can sail against the wind. The first thing that is important here is that the CPU and CLS are highly spaced vertically, which creates a significant heeling moment. Hence the conclusion: if the sailing armament is not provided for by the boat project, do not put a "samopal". As a last resort and under perfectly favorable circumstances, you can build an emergency sprint sail from a pair of oars and a cover or clothing. For example, the engine is dead, it is far from the shore, the rowing is exhausted, but the wind is weak and the excitement is insignificant.
The interaction of the sail's thrust forces and the lateral resistance of a properly designed vessel also creates a moment tending to bring it to the wind, i.e. turn your nose exactly against the wind. On the one hand, this is good, because if the ship turns out to be uncontrollable, it will receive the wave on the bow, which is the least dangerous. But on the other hand, if the CPU moves too far forward from the CLS, the ship will become difficult to control or generally uncontrollable: it will be driven to the wind, no matter how much the tiller turns; it's not far from here to disaster.
The matter is complicated by the fact that when the course changes with respect to the wind, both the CPU and CLS shift. If the CPU is behind the CLS, the vessel will start to roll away into the wind ("wants" to become stern to it), which threatens a catastrophe. Hence the most important conclusion: without proper knowledge of maritime affairs, do not experiment with sails! You risk making an “overkill turn” in a gentle wind on calm water!
So that a vessel without a large bottom deadrise and contours specially designed for sails could carry sailing equipment, lifting keels - centerboards - placed in centerboard wells are used, see Fig. on right. If the project has a sail, but there are no centerboard drawings, we reject, illiterate. Then, some amateurs try to adapt a flat-bottomed boat for sail, stuffing false keels and longitudinal steps from boards on the bottom, incorrectly called bottom stringers (which are actually parts of the hull set). Technically, this is the same as clipping the wings of an airplane or trying to adapt them, the tail and the jet engine to the bus.
The main dimensions and characteristics of the vessel are given in pos. 1 fig., And in pos. 2 - the main planes of his theoretical drawing. The midship plane is indicated by a special squiggle icon. Pos. 3 shows how the theoretical drawing is constructed. Cutting with diagonals and constructing fish are used in drawings of large enough vessels, performed on a small scale, to check the coincidence of lines. On the theoretical drawings of small vessels, instead of fish, they often give a combatant along the frames, see below.
Already by looking at the theoretical drawing, one can estimate at what Froude numbers a given ship is capable of sailing. For example, a boat at pos. 5 - semi-displacement. Next, you need to check the coincidence of the drawing lines:
Next, you should evaluate driving performance ship: using the trapezium method, the cross-sectional areas of the underwater part are determined by the frames and the segments, respectively. the lengths are laid along the vertical axis, see fig. The distance between the segments (on the same scale) is one space, i.e. the distance between the sections along the frames. The envelope of the segments, the so-called. marching on the frames, should form a semi-contour of some streamlined body.
Forming a combatant along frames is similar to the application of the area rule in aviation. But, firstly, in incompressible water, its effect affects any speed, and not transonic. Secondly, the ship's hull is only partially submerged in water and therefore excites gravitational waves in motion, not pressures. Therefore, the combatant on the frames should not look like a drop, but the body of an ogival shape, like an artillery shell. The flatter the frontline on the frames, the more salable the vessel will be, and the wide frontline indicates its good controllability. The "tail" at the back indicates the ability to walk at significant Froude numbers, and the "beak" at the front - about good germination on the wave, but at the same time about the propensity to yaw.
Note: in addition to the frames, according to the theoretical drawing, the true bypass of the inclined transom is built, see fig.:
The basic materials of construction for the boat require some pretreatment. In order for a wooden boat to last as long as possible, wood materials must first be abundantly impregnated with a water-soluble wood preservative (biocide). Not oily, it will not be in the air!
Plywood, incl. waterproof, impregnated in several steps with intermediate drying in order to avoid delamination. In the latter, only the glue is waterproof, and the veneer is wooden as it is. Further, in order to fix the biocide and reduce the swelling of wood, the material is impregnated in the same way 2-3 times with a water-polymer emulsion. Unless otherwise specified in the project, the thickness of plywood for the sides of the boat up to 4 m in length should be taken from 4 mm, for the bottom from 6 mm and for the transom from 12 mm; boards, depending on the species and quality of wood, three or four times more. The method of gluing wooden parts correctly and the permissible bending radii of the boards are given in Fig. above. They differ from the construction ones!
Plywood sheets larger than 1550 mm are difficult to find, so they are pre-glued into strips of the required length with a mustache connection, see Fig. It is impossible to learn how to accurately and accurately cut plywood from descriptions, so practice on scraps. One can only advise to round the mustache with a rough planer, and finish it with a grinder or an even bar wrapped in sandpaper. The sheets are glued with epoxy glue. The quality of the burr is checked by the trace. way:
Type-setting boat hulls are assembled on red-copper nails (holes must be drilled for them), galvanized or tapered screws. Red-copper nails are bitten and riveted in washers; galvanized bend. Holes are drilled for screws; for their sizes, techniques for working with nails and fastening tables, see Fig.
Note: Recently, quite a few amateurs have been assembling boats on furniture screws-confirmations, using the same technological methods as when assembling cabinet furniture - cabinets, kitchen corners, etc. For the time being, these boats are floating, but not for long in order to judge their reliability for a long time.
Epoxy glued glass cloth is widely used in small shipbuilding. But there are a lot of complaints about her: they say, he didn't swim until autumn - it started flowing. The reason is the paraffin that is used to cover the fiberglass before spinning and weaving it. Paraffin from glass fabric is removed by boiling in water. You cannot burn out, the fabric will become fragile! The fiberglass is boiled in a clean dish for at least half an hour, then the dish with the contents is allowed to cool completely, the paraffin crust is removed from the surface of the water, and only then the fiberglass is taken out.
Techniques for working with fiberglass on fiberglass and wood are shown in Fig. Gluing the parts of a set of extruded EPS polystyrene foam is an effective way to increase the rigidity of a wooden hull, slightly increasing its weight, and assembling a plywood boat by sewing on epoxy glue is technologically simple and gives a completely reliable vessel. The staples are made of copper wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm; the step of pairs of holes for them is 40-60 mm. Looking ahead, the technology for sewing boats from plywood on epoxy is as follows:
In the projects of boats, kartop dingis and skiffs, patterns of their parts are often given. In this case, the boat is assembled by sewing (stitching) on keel blocks or tragus, see fig. Sewn on a dry body is exposed along the contours using templates and temporary mounting spacers. The seams of the sheet biting, as the most durable, are placed closer to the nose, as the most loaded and prone to damage.
The construction of a sharp-chinned boat with a larger than sewn capacity with single-curvature lines begins with the manufacture of the stem (see below) and the assembly of the frame frames. The frames of sewn boats are often simply cut out of plywood (there are only 2-3 of them), but in this case it is so uneconomical - too much rather expensive material will go to waste. The frames are assembled on the plaza, i.e. on a flat plane, onto which the projections of the theoretical drawing are transferred at a scale of 1: 1. If the outlines of the boat are simple, and there is not enough space, only the projection of the hull can be transferred to the plaza. Methods for assembling frame frames, with increasing strength, complexity and weight, are given in Fig. Keel grooves and stringers are pre-selected.
Further, the frame frames are placed on the frame (pos. And on the next figure), set vertically, by contours, a keel bar, stem (see below), fenders and stringers are attached. After that, the set of the body is covered with a flat bar (pos. B). The purpose of the malkovka is, firstly, to create cuts in the keel beam, along which it will be trimmed to a given dead-lift; secondly, check if a double curvature section has been worn in somewhere, and so on. trim the bottom edges of the floorboards. Then sheathing is applied, starting from the keel (below in the figure). After that, the body is removed from the frame, completed and equipped.
Note: some amateurs after malkovki trash against the rules of shipbuilding, removing the cutting of the casing from the mild set on sheets of packing cardboard. Then there is no need to suffer with the geometry according to the theoretical drawing, and the boats are nothing, they float.
Forteven is the most loaded and responsible part of the hull set. One of the immutable rules for the safety of navigation says: if the danger cannot be avoided, it must be taken on the bow. Therefore, the manufacture of the stem of the boat should be taken with full responsibility.
The designs of the bow boats are shown in Fig. Solid, non-rotting wood waterstop plugs prevent water from seeping into the hull. In terms of reliability, all these designs are approximately the same. The false bow stem is used in kart boats with a narrow forespigel.
On excitement and when hitting obstacles, the stem experiences large dynamic loads that tend to expand the body, therefore it is reinforced with an insert-bristle. It is often neglected by amateur boatbuilders or does not know at all what it is; this is one of the significant reasons that homemade boats serve much less than the terms stated in the projects.
Another rather important part of the kit, especially for a boat designed for a motor, is the transom. Transom design for motors up to 10-12 HP is given in Fig. on right. Overall, with reinforcement, transom thickness - from 40 mm. Possibly More: Some outboard motor alignment clamps do not converge by less than 50-60mm.
An unsinkable boat is a radical way to avoid the severe consequences of accidents on the water. It is quite simple to make a non-decked vessel with a displacement of up to 0.5 tons unsinkable: foam blocks are glued under the banks and on the sides from the inside; then, in the bow and stern can be fenced off acc. forepeak and afterpeak and fill with foam. The volume of unsinkable blocks in cubic meters m is calculated by the formula V = 1.2W (1 + ρ), where W is the displacement in t, 1 is the density of fresh water, ρ is the mass density of the foam. For example, if ρ = 0.08 tf / cu. m, then for a boat with a displacement of 0.25 tons, 0.324 cubic meters will be needed. m or 324 cubic meters. dm of foam. It seems to be a lot, but in a dinghy boat 3 m long, such an amount is accommodated without a noticeable deterioration in habitability.
The minimum set of mandatory equipment for a pleasure boat and fishing boat consists of oars, life jackets for human capacity, an anchor on a chain or cable, a mooring end and, in case of sailing in the dark, a white bow or masthead (on the mast) navigation light of all-round visibility. The latter is often neglected, which in our time is unforgivable: now there are autonomous LED lights the size of a kid's cam with built-in solar battery and battery. The anchor deserves special attention from this set.
Joseph Konrad called the anchors "honest pieces of iron", and no wonder: the anchor may be the last chance to save the ship and the people on it. Small boats are most often supplied with cat anchors, but this is far from the best option... First, cats often get stuck on rocks. On sale there are cat anchors with paws that fold back with a sharp jerk, but they are unreliable: the ship can spontaneously de-anchor just when you need to keep on it tightly. Secondly, a cat, like a classic Admiralty anchor, becomes dangerous in shallow water: the vessel can land with its bottom on the anchor leg sticking out upwards.
Hall, Matrosov anchors and Trident lightweight anchors of increased holding power are also produced for small vessels. They are quite expensive, but you won't be able to make them yourself, you need cast parts. You can independently make a Kurbatov welded anchor (see fig.), It is suitable for boats up to 5 m long. ingot in 2-3 kg.
Suddenly, Kurbatov's anchor will get stuck in the stones, the pig must be lifted before releasing it. The anchor, which is completely stuck, is released with a strong sharp jerk by the cable. This may damage parts 4 and 8, but in most cases they can be corrected right there with a hammer and pliers.
In the butt of the anchor, it is necessary to thread an eyelet during manufacture - a steel ring freely dangling in it. The rump is also supplied with the gum-tack - the attachment point for the anchor cable / chain to the ship's hull. The eyelets significantly reduce the wear of the cable / chain and the likelihood of their sudden breakage.
Zhvaka-tack is attached from the outside to the stem. You need to fix the gum-tack lower, above the waterline itself. In this case, the boat at anchor will be better able to play on the wave, not to bury itself in the water with its bow, and the probability of the anchor getting stuck is much reduced.
There are enough good projects of kartop boats, dinghy and Scythians in Runet and in general on the Internet. Therefore, let us dwell on boat projects more extensively.
The appearance, data and design of a skiff boat developed by D.A.Kurbatov, suitable for transportation on the upper trunk of a passenger car, are shown in Fig. Her distinctive feature extremely cheap: the main material is boards, and there is a small size on the bottom, i.e. monkeys. If you choose the right planks for the bottom (highlighted in red in the next figure), then the plank bottom will be quite reliable. Moreover, today the seams between the boards can be caulked with a construction deformation cord (used to seal cracks in concrete) and silicone sealant. Of course, the bottom of this boat can also be made of plywood, then its weight will decrease to 70-80 kg.
On the trail. rice. the drawings of the details of this boat are given and the method of its assembly is shown, which is also very economical: on a simplified slipway according to templates. The transom is amplified under the motor as described above.
Further in Fig. shows the sailing equipment of this boat and the drawings of the oars for it. The sail is raked (emphasis on "o"), you can learn how to handle it in half an hour or an hour, completely without knowing the theory. But - do not put this sail in a fresh and stronger wind! The CPU of the rack sail is significantly higher, it heels the boat more strongly, and she is a punt!
As for the oars, it is better to make them exactly according to the drawing. Scythian boats do not go very easily with oars, therefore, in order to save the muscular efforts of the rower, the configuration of the oars and the profile of their blades are of great importance.
Scythian boats are sometimes made with galvanized iron bottoms. Such a boat, firstly, with plywood sides, weighs only approx. 50 kg or less, i.e. you can turn it around as you like alone. Secondly, a boat with a steel bottom turns out to be much more durable in reservoirs with an acidic reaction of water, of which there are more than enough in the Russian Federation: ions of even very weak acids spoil the glue and protective coatings. There is only one drawback for home-made boats with a steel bottom: it is useless to submit them for inspection for the purpose of registration, and they will not look.
The same author also developed a project of a sailing boat dori made of plywood, see fig; according to the table of plazovy ordinates, the sheathing is cut, but see above. In shallow sea waters with a short steep "evil" wave (Azov, the north of the Caspian Sea, the Marquis puddle in the Baltic), this boat has shown itself better than a sea boat or an Azov longboat.
Below in Fig. a structural drawing of the boat is given, the method of its construction on the slipway, the design of the stem and the method of inserting the longitudinal parts of the set are shown. Wood must be used of high quality, without knots and defects, because the wooden parts of the set are prestressed during assembly.
On the trail. Figs are given drawings of the sailing equipment of the dori. Since the dori can sail in a fairly strong wind, it is envisaged to take one reef on sail. Observe the specified dimensions exactly: dori boats are very critical to the relative position of the CPU and CLS!
Before proceeding with the construction of a wooden boat, it is necessary to prepare the main part of such a structure - the sides. To do this, you need to take the most even, longest, enough wide boards which are made from spruce or pine.
Look at the photos of homemade boats and you will see that there are no boards on its sides that have knots - this is very important. Boards for this part of the boat should be in a dry place under slight pressure for at least one year.
Before starting production, you need to make sure once again that the boards are absolutely suitable for the job. Next, for each board, you need to measure the desired length and carefully cut them off at an angle of 45 degrees. These boards will go to the bow of the boat.
After that, it is necessary to stitch them and check that the boards connected to each other do not have gaps. Then treat the ends with an antiseptic.
The next step is the preparation of the bow of the boat, and a triangular bar serves them. It should be one and a half times longer than the width of the sides. The timber is also planed and covered with an antiseptic layer.
Further instructions for making a boat with your own hands is to choose a suitable board for the stern of the boat. Do not neglect the stock, because it is better to cut off the excess later than to search and start all over again.
When the elements of the wooden boat are assembled, you need to start assembling the product. You should start with the bow. Both sides and a triangular bar must be connected to each other using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to cut off the protrusions from above and below immediately so that they do not interfere in the future.
The next step is very important and responsible, as it is necessary to give the future boat a shape. You need to decide on the width of the boat and put a spacer in the middle. Choose a board for the spacer with dimensions the same as the height of the boat, so your sides will not burst.
When the brace is properly installed, you can start shaping the boat, call for help from several people or stock up on ropes to hold the structure.
Use the drawings and adjust the dimensions of the stern for the manufacture of the boat in such a way that when the back wall and sides are connected, there are no gaps and crevices.
When the backdrop is installed, cut off the excess part from the bottom, and on top you can make an element in the form of a triangle. Next, we deal with the struts that will constantly maintain the shape of the boat, as well as the seats that are installed over the struts. The number, as well as the location of these elements, you can determine yourself, so it can be one, two or more places.
We align everything on the bottom in one plane and process the entire surface with a protective layer. When the glue is dry, start making the bottom of the boat.
The best option for the bottom is a galvanized sheet of metal. Try to find a sheet that fits the boat's dimensions.
Place the future boat on a sheet of metal and circle its borders with a marker, do not forget to grab a few centimeters of stock just in case, you can always cut the excess.
The next step is to cover the joint of the boat with its bottom with a special silicone sealant along the entire length in one line. On top of the sealant, until it dries, the cord is laid in several rows - all this is necessary so that the bottom of the boat is sealed and does not let water inside.
When this process is complete, we move on to connecting the bottom to the frame. Carefully place the bottom of the boat over the bottom of the boat. Use nails or screws to connect.
Start connecting from the middle and work towards the edges of the boat. Do the job as slowly and carefully as possible, as this part is very important.
Cut off excess metal that sticks out more than 5 mm from the edge of the boat, and bend the rest with a hammer. It is also important to protect the bow of the boat from external factors using the same metal. Cut a rectangle out of the tin to fit your boat.
Wherever wood and metal are connected, it is necessary to walk with a sealant and a cord. By this time, before you start to "wrap" the nose with metal, it is necessary to treat the entire boat with an antiseptic.
Be sure to make a bow attachment for the chain. This will help if someone wants to steal a brand new boat, since on the pond it will attract special attention due to its novelty.
Before you build a boat, think over and go through all the ideas from what you can make a boat. Perhaps you will choose for yourself a special material with which it will be more convenient for you to work, or maybe you need special protection or massiveness.
Remember to cover the bottom with back side special paint, since galvanized metal is destroyed in contact with water over time. And the wooden parts of the boat must be covered with several layers of special impregnation and as a result the boat must be left to dry in the shade.
For convenience, inside the boat at its bottom can be expanded wood flooring... So the bottom will not rattle when you move on it.
On this the boat will be ready. Read more articles on how to make the best homemade boats with descriptions to find out some other nuances that may be useful to you in future constructions.
Not every angler can buy a watercraft, because the products are sold at high prices. Also, not all models may meet certain customer requests. The most budget models are rowing or motorized rubber boats, but, as a rule, they are unreliable, and in case of damage during fishing, an unpleasant situation will occur. Meanwhile, fishermen and swimmers have increasingly begun to make homemade boats with their own hands from wood or plywood.
From modern building materials you can build a ship for 2-3 people. Homemade boats for fishing can be equipped with oars or a motor. Some put a sail on the boat. It will not be difficult to install a motor on a watercraft, but you need to understand that if you constantly visit small lakes or ponds, then the presence of a motor will be inappropriate.
Craftsmen for making a boat with their own hands mainly use bars for the frame and plywood for sheathing the structure. If you are a fan of swimming in large bodies of water, then it is quite possible to build a full-fledged boat with a roof. This will also require plywood, timber and galvanized metal. To extend the life of the boat, treat the wood with antiseptics and paint.
The boat is equipped with a motor if the boat was made with high quality. Because when swimming at a solid speed, the structure can fall apart. However, a wooden boat is much better than an inflatable model. Fishermen often swim in difficult places with snags, and for a rubber floating craft, this can end up with a hook on the branches and a rupture of the hull.
First, find a large area to work in, such as a garage. Secondly, if you work in winter, the room must be heated. Also, the room should not have a high concentration of moisture, otherwise the plywood will not dry out, but rot. As a rule, staining is done outdoors. To make homemade plywood boats for fishing, use the following tools and materials:
The most expensive are plywood and timber, the rest is much cheaper. Electrical equipment can be borrowed from neighbors.
The rowing craft can be built at your own discretion and your own dimensions. But according to the technology, the construction of a boat with your own hands will be made of plywood 5 mm thick, it is recommended to use the following parameters:
All structural parts are attached to the keel - this is the basic nodal element. The back of the boat is called the sternpost, and the bow is called the stem. Due to these elements, the longitudinal rigidity is increased. These basic parts can be made from solid wood using a jigsaw. And the cut parts are connected with glue or self-tapping screws. It is not necessary to fasten the parts with nails ^ this is an unreliable method.
Frames are transverse load-bearing structural elements that form the hull of the boat. By connecting the sternpost, stem and frames, the sidewalls of the craft will be obtained. At the final stage, the ship's frame is sheathed with plywood. The inner part of the product is equipped with a slate - this is especially true for the bottom, which should be protected as much as possible.
The scheme of a motor vessel practically does not differ from rowing and sailing models. The only thing is the back of the boat, on which the propeller motor is attached. This part of the boat must be strong and reliable so that the motor does not break off the structure during sailing. Craftsmen recommend using a transom board for a boat motor.
The modernized vessels are equipped with additional elements - stringers, side stringers, cockpit and deck stringers. In order for the boat to be unsinkable and stable, it is necessary to create a layer between the outer side of the frame and the inner side. This void is filling polyurethane foam... In the event of a capsizing of the vessel, flooding and sinking to the bottom will not occur. Therefore, experts strongly recommend using this trick.
Drawings are an integral part of the job. Because the whole process always begins with well-designed schemes intended for self-construction. If you find it difficult to draw sketches or do not want to, use ready-made schemes which are full on the Internet. When drawing up the drawings, be very careful and do not miss any detail. Make some sketches of the future boat according to the following rules:
The main task: to draw all the necessary details and indicate their dimensions. The third drawing is a sketch. On it you have to draw appearance boats, in order to have an idea of what kind of watercraft will turn out at the exit.
So, do-it-yourself drawings of a boat pattern made of plywood, and now you have to make a template that is designed to transfer the shape of the bottom to plywood. You will need to find sheets of cardboard and connect them with a stapler. Then, armed with drawings, you should draw the shape of the workpiece on paper. Then cut off all the excess and attach the made template to the sheets of plywood and circle it with a pencil or pen.
If the boat is made of solid wood, then the pattern should be copied not against the direction of the fibers, but along the fibers. In this case, possible defects can be avoided. For plywood sheets, the grain direction is random. Because this material is made by pressing wood chips. In simple terms: the bottom can be marked in any direction. But the template is mainly meant if you are going to build a punt boat.
As in any other business, the entire workflow is carried out in stages. The boat is no exception: in order to make a high-quality construction, you will have to adhere to certain steps. How to make a boat out of wood - technological steps:
As you can see, the workflow is time consuming, but it's worth it.
Prepare all material and tools. Check that all electrical equipment is working properly. Also, when working with a tree, you must have protective equipment: gloves and glasses. Be careful when cutting material with the circular saw.
First of all, cut the blocks for the sidewalls - the footers. Then other bars are prepared, which will later form the sides of the vessel and the lower part. The bottom can be made using the ship building technology, that is, a rounded triangular shape, you can also build an ordinary punt. Then prepare the bow and stern bars.
In the next step, you need to make the nose. Take some spacers and two long beams. They must be connected with screws from one edge. Then a block is attached to the other side - this is the back of the boat. The part is also attached with screws. Then, in the middle of the back block, attach another block vertically.
The boat frame you made needs to be shaped like a bullet. Take a couple of spacers and fasten them across near the bow. Then the frame is turned over with a bar upwards, which was fixed on the backdrop and lay an axial bar, which will serve as a supporting part for the footers - stiffeners.
To do this, fix one edge to the bar, which is on the backdrop - its height will be 50 cm, and put the other edge of the bottom bar at the nose of the frame. Now screw two short bars to the sidewalls and the central bar, stepping back from the edge about 70-100 cm. You need to bend the fixed edge of the bar to make it arched. Then it must be screwed on at the bow of the frame.
So, the frame is done and now you need to install the stiffeners. For these purposes, you will have to use spacers, one spacer is installed for each pair of stiffeners. This is necessary so that the sidewalls are rounded. As a rule, the bars are used of small diameter, capable of bending without much reinforcement.
Work starts at the stern. Screw the first bar to the sidewall, and then the second to the other side of the future boat. Now a spacer is installed between them and two ribs are fixed to the central bar. Try to bend the material carefully, otherwise fracture may occur.
Stiffeners should be installed in 30 cm increments. When you get to the bow of the boat, do not remove the installed spacers yet. Measure the depth of the boat by 20 cm. Place marks on the two sides. You need to screw two long beams along the sidewalls, which will connect the stiffeners more firmly. Then install several spacers between the two along the passing parts. Remove the rest of the spacers.
Now you need to strengthen all the joints. Use metal corners and self-tapping screws. In the bow, step back 50 cm from the edge and screw the jumper. Also, the nose must be strengthened and a hole drilled at the very edge with a drill, and then tighten the structure with a bolt and nut. After that, we can assume that the skeleton of the ship is ready.
In this step, turn the boat upside down and start sewing the sidewalls. It is necessary that the applied material is completely adjacent to the stiffeners. Plywood is fixed with self-tapping screws. There should be enough material to reach from the top of the sidewall to the bottom of the boat.
As a rule, sheets are produced in sizes of 150 cm, so there will be at least two joints on the boat. The bottom-most edge of the boat will look like a rounded triangle. Along the entire length, you will have to fix a strip of zinc at least 50 cm wide.
After the outer sheathing, take a few cans of polyurethane foam. It is necessary to foam the interlayer to the width of the bar. Sing in all places and leave no voids. Then make the inner lining. So that the boat is not too heavy for inner cladding use chipboard sheets - they are thinner and lighter than plywood.
In the end, you will have to glue all the joints of the outer case. The seams are filled to the extent that the glue begins to flow out. For best effect, apply a layer of silicone sealant to the joints. This will protect the structure from water penetration.
At the last stage, the watercraft is painted with water-repellent paint. But before that, check the case for chips and cracks. If there are such defects, then they need to be covered with putty. Some craftsmen glue the entire body with fiberglass, and then paint. The primary primer is applied and the secondary is colored.
Now the motor is installed and it remains to wait until the structure is completely dry, then check the homemade product by swimming on it on the lake. If you find any malfunctions, then fix them.
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Hunting and fishing is a favorite pastime of many men. Sitting with a fishing rod in the early morning in the thickets of reeds is a special romance of an angler.
Means of transportation for fishing, and just for walking, are used different - rubber, aluminum, PVC boats and even plywood.
You can buy absolutely any craft, if you have money, but how to make a boat with your own hands? We will tell you in our article.
A homemade plywood boat is very lightweight, easy to use and much cheaper than in a store.
The most important preparatory moment in construction is the boat's blueprints. Having accurate calculations, in the future you will not have to spend time and effort on alteration and adjustment of the product.
We offer you one of the calculation options. Transferring the drawings to paper, we will get life-size templates of all the necessary parts of the boat. Now you can "cut out" our product, and cut out the workpiece with a jigsaw. Having received all the cut out parts, you can start gluing.
First of all, we connect the supporting elements of the structure, the transom (cut of the stern) and frames (transverse rib of the hull). Then the bottom and sides are attached to the transom, as in the photo of the boat.
Use epoxy and fiberglass tape to bond all parts. These materials will not only connect all parts of the structure, but also create a waterproof seam.
Having fastened the plywood to the side structures, you can proceed to strengthening the corners between the sides and the bottom. This is done with the help of wooden corners, then they move on to sealing the seams.
To obtain a suture material, epoxy resin and aerosil are mixed in equal proportions. Further, the seams are not just lubricated, but filled with this composition.
Once the whole structure is dry, the seats can be attached. If the boat has a motor, attach the transom and the bow cover.
The outer part of the boat also needs to be processed, it is necessary to glue all the outer seams, also using resin and fiberglass tape, and after drying, sand the surface. Then prime and paint.
If you already have an inflatable boat and you are actively using it, then most likely there are often moments of leakage due to a puncture or cut in the material of the vehicle. It is not at all difficult to restore a PVC boat; it is easy to do in Spartan conditions and even on the water.
Of course, in order to get a better result, you need to have time and repair better in the workshop. When the leak is eliminated, the glue dries, ideally, 3 days, although there is nothing to worry about if you use the boat in a day.
If the boat has been repaired on the water, when returning it is necessary to redo everything, since the patch glued hastily and without observing the technology will not last long.
If the puncture happened during fishing or hunting, use only the set of defects elimination included in the set with the boat.
For overhaul boats you need:
Cut out a rounded patch from the spare fabric. It should be 4-5 cm larger than the cut.
Spread the area to be repaired on a flat surface, remove dirt and degrease with solvent. Place the patch over the hole and trace with a pencil, brush both surfaces with PVC glue and let dry.
After 15-20 minutes, repeat the procedure and allow time to dry again. After 5 minutes, the restoration can be started directly. Touch the surface of the patch with your finger, it should stick slightly.
Then, to activate the adhesive surface, it is necessary to heat the patch itself and the puncture site, a hairdryer is ideal for this, just act quickly so that the glue does not dry out.
Now you can apply the surfaces to each other with the adhesive side, and gently expelling all the air, iron the patch with a roller. Then leave to dry for at least one day.
In conclusion of our article, we can say that it is not necessary to spend a lot to buy or repair a boat. With some effort, you can enjoy what you love.
Not everyone can buy a good boat, because the prices are quite high. In addition, not all designs can suit the needs of their customers. If you disassemble inflatable boats, then this is not a very reliable means of transportation, because such a boat can be easily damaged in difficult conditions. This means that they are not suitable for good fishing. In this case, a decision is made to try to make a homemade boat.
Homemade plywood fishing boats have a number of advantages:
The main material from which standard boats are created, considered plywood... There are no difficulties with finding it on sale.
First, it is worth remembering that any activity that is associated with the independent creation of a certain tool (be it a tractor or something else) must go specifically according to the chosen scheme. In this case, you should have drawings of homemade models with you. Sometimes drawings can be replaced with a special drawing.
To create a corpus, you will need to take simple boards with a thickness of 2 cm and 6 mm plywood sheet. The width of the material for the stern and sides should be 30 cm. These are the most suitable dimensions for the boat. All other parts that will be inside the product (seats and spacers) are made of material with a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 86.4 cm.It must be remembered that the dimensions of all these parts must be fully maintained, since they all attach to the body of the model only with self-tapping screws. The creation of all parts of this structure will definitely not cause any problems.
This can be explained by their light geometric shape. In the process of work, you need to look specifically at the fit of the abutting parts and frills. All parts to be joined must be aligned and have only small gaps along their entire length. In the form of fasteners used various self-tapping screws... Regarding the size of such fasteners: it all depends on the place of use. They can be as follows:
The bottom of the model is made of a sheet of plywood with 6 mm thick... But due to the fact that this part of the boat will be partially exposed to the effects of the aquatic environment, for the protection of the means, the joints of the hull and the bottom still need to be treated with VIAM-B / 3 and fixed with screws.
If this substance is not available, you can take oil paint... Although it does not adhere well, it can give a strong and reliable coating. It is worth saying that the distance between the screws should be about 4 cm.
The outer seams should be well glued with a cloth using the "AK-20" substance. In order not to destroy the bottom of the model, a special grid is placed between the spacers.
Many people think about how to make a boat out of plywood themselves. Motor boats are almost the same in their basic characteristics as compared to models designed to move under oars. The only difference is in the organization of the space for securing the engine. Basically, a special board is fixed at the stern, where the motor for the boat is installed.
Some parts of small ships can be equipped with other details, for example, cockpit, deck stringers and so on. To improve the strength and unsinkability, certain gaps can be installed in the models, which must be filled with polyurethane foam. This approach helps to eliminate the option of flooding the vehicle.
Painting the plywood body of the product is a rather interesting and serious moment. This is done correctly in the following sequence:
Great combination colors- white and red. The bottom to the waterline must be painted white. Red should go above.
For a homemade model, make an area for mounting the engine. It is cheaper and easier to use oars. The material for the paddle can be a birch board with a thickness of 35 mm. A thorn with a handle is placed at the end of the spindle. Special pads can be used to protect the edges of the blades. Then you can prime and paint the paddle. Homemade boats can be designed in different ways.
A do-it-yourself plywood fishing boat can surpass plastic and rubber models in terms of its "survivability". Such a boat will work from fifteen to twenty years. Build a boat yourself and enjoy fishing. And, of course, before starting work, you should decide which boat you still need: collapsible or folding.
