Today it is perhaps impossible to find suburban area where currants would not grow. Black, red and beauty won the love of gardeners with delicious aromatic and healthy berries. To receive annually good harvest, the bushes in the berry need proper care and timely reproduction of the varieties you like.
In some cases, it becomes necessary to transplant currants:
In each of the above cases, the rules for transplanting currants and the procedure for work are the same.
Transplanting a currant is preceded by the choice of a place for a future bush or berry. Currant loves lighted warm areas and does not tolerate darkening, so the bushes should be placed away from trees, fences and outbuildings. The area for the future berry is dug up to remove weeds and roots of old plants.
All gardeners are tormented by the question: when is it better to transplant currants in order to get a full harvest as early as possible?
In the northern regions, it is advisable to transplant currants in the spring, when the snow melts and the temperature is above zero. But if the bushes have already started to grow, then the transplant to a new place should be postponed until autumn.
Autumn transplanting requires patience, since the bush must shed its leaves, and sap flow will already stop in the shoots.
For central Russia, the most favorable period is mid-late October.
In the northern regions, the dates are shifted by 2-3 weeks. If you carry out the transfer of the bushes too early, the currants can "confuse" the seasons and go into growth, throwing out the buds, which will freeze in winter, weakening the bush. In warm and dry autumn, transplanted bushes require regular watering.
Winter shelter in this case is mandatory. You can pour 2-3 buckets of old humus mixed with leaves into the base of the bush decorative trees... Then, by spring, a fertile layer of loose soil is formed around the bush, in which you can build a watering bowl.
Currant bushes, planted in the fall, adapt to a new place during the winter and take root in order to give a harvest in the summer.
Currant bushes transplanted in spring take a long time to take root, adapt and yield a harvest only after a year. Garlic cloves can be planted around the bush in autumn. When it rises in the spring, cut the feathers by 0.5-1 cm every 3-4 days, then the smell of garlic will scare away pests.
In the spring, rooted cuttings are usually transplanted, that is, they are transferred from the nursery trench to a permanent place in the berry. If the cuttings were planted in the fall, then in the spring they will be twigs with 2-3 leaves from the buds left above the ground.
You will not find an unequivocal opinion of gardeners and agronomists about when you can transplant currants. Some argue that this can only be done in late autumn, when the movement of sap in the plant is very slow, the leaves are shed, and it is prepared to meet frost. About 4 weeks before the temperature drops below 0 degrees. In the temperate climatic zone, this happens around the end of October. It is also recommended to transplant before winter, that is, already in the frozen ground immediately before frost, so that the "shock" of the plant is minimal. It is assumed that next year it will develop much faster and bring the expected harvest.
Other gardeners argue that planting before winter does not give the expected yield. To increase efficiency and reduce the risk to the plant itself, the transplant of currant bushes should be performed in early spring... It is recommended to do this immediately after frost, while the plant has not yet "woken up". The optimal numbers for the middle lane are March 15-20. If the spring is early (sometimes even in mid-February it is +10 degrees), then you need to transplant the bushes at the moment when the ground thaws, warms up to 5 degrees for the convenience of the process. They argue for such a transplantation time by the fact that immediately after this operation, the plant will begin to take root, it will gain vegetative mass faster, and absorb moisture from the ground. Due to this, a large increase in yield is obtained, since new shoots are formed faster, with proper care they become fruitful in the first year of transplantation.
Let's figure it out now when the currant transplant will be better for us. In fact, from a physiological point of view, there is no difference, so you can plant both in late autumn and early spring. But there is one very big nuance - the survival rate of the bushes is much higher if, after transplanting, you provide them favorable conditions"Living", and large frosts can destroy an unrooted, weak plant. Transplanting black currants, for example, can be performed in spring and autumn - there is practically no difference, but the red berry is much weaker, it can "order a long life" if you plant it just before frost. You can experiment, but if the variety is rare and there is no possibility of making mistakes, it is better to do it in the spring, and in the middle and end of March.
When it is better to transplant currants, we figured out, now let's move on to the intricacies of this process. This is a simple matter, you can plant almost everywhere, but in order to achieve the best result, to avoid a large number of diseases, you need to know some of the intricacies of planting black and red currants.
If everything is done correctly, then the next year you can get a small harvest of berries to taste them by the tooth and excellent harvests in 2 years, when the bush takes root.
The first step is to prepare the place where the new "seedling" will be placed. The site is dug up (to destroy pests and fungal spores in the upper soil layer). Next, you need to pay special attention to useful minerals and organics, so that the bush not only takes a good start, but also has an intense growth rate for the first months. The process is very similar.
Attention should be paid to "long-term" means. Humus should, of course, be introduced first - it acts for almost 2 years, and begins to decompose 3-4 months after application. Next, we pay attention to wood ash and superphosphate. They are essential elements for high-quality bush growth. Currants require them in large quantities, therefore, at least 150 grams must be applied under each new bush, then sprinkle with earth so that the roots do not come into direct contact with the fertilizer and continue to plant as usual.
The distance between newly formed plants should be at least 150 centimeters, especially if they are tall. Even with 100 centimeters between the rows, they darken each other, and development will already be incomplete. Moreover, diseases from one bush can "spread" to others, therefore it is necessary to maintain a safe distance and not allow them to be transferred by watering or processing with a garden tool. Thickened bushes get sick too often.
Planting depth should be at least 40 centimeters, despite the fact that the bushes are relatively low in height and can grow in much smaller pits. This is done so that there are as many lateral roots as possible. They are the main source from which currants will feed throughout the entire growing period. The pits can even be 60-70 centimeters long, if these are specific hybrids of European selection. But these are rare cases and for most pits 30-40 cm are suitable.
We take the dug out seedling and place it in a pre-fertilized hole, it is advisable to replace the heavy and viscous soil with an organic mixture of compost, humus, fertile black soil. For planting, it is better to use one-year-old seedlings, since two and three-year-old seedlings will be very difficult to take, and their root system is not adapted to quickly provide a large crown. If the stem has many branches and is more than 45 centimeters in height, it must be cut to this size after planting so that there is enough moisture and fertilizer to root it. After that, pour plenty of water, even if there is already enough moisture.
Regardless of the fact that you performed this procedure in spring or autumn, the first step is to cut off as much vegetative mass as possible. That is, leave only 2-3 soils for reproduction and no more, otherwise the plant will "slow down" and will gain momentum for a long time.
Next, you need to water abundantly. For the first 1-2 weeks, feel free to make a "swamp", that is, keep the roots in water, like rice. The more you extend this, the more chances that you will get the harvest already in next year, and “for trial” it will be possible to get several berries in the year of planting. But you cannot overexpose the roots in water for more than 2-3 weeks, since then they can rot a little and a large number of diseases will develop.
The first year, it is necessary to form the "crown" as correctly as possible, so that less overgrowth is formed and all branches are directed upward. Further care is carried out in the fall, when all the old branches are cut out and the bush is sent in the right direction. Up to 8-10 shoots are allowed, no more, even with abundant fertilization and watering.
For various reasons, a gardener may need to transplant an already growing adult currant bush to a new place. This article is devoted to how to transfer a plant without damaging the crown and root system of the shrub.
Sometimes the gardener observes a depression and poor growth of the berry bush, and there may be several reasons for this. For example, the shrub was originally planted not far from an apricot seedling (walnut, pear), but several years later, after fruit tree grew and acquired an extensive crown, the currants began to lack sunlight.
Also, the cause of an unhealthy look can be the cultivation of a crop in too heavy, impervious to moisture and air, soil. In any of these cases, the plant must be transplanted to another place with suitable conditions for growth and fruiting.
At the beginning of the growing season, the most favorable months for transplanting are late March or early April. You can start work on changing the location of the shrub immediately, as soon as the snow melts in the garden and the soil dries out a little. In the fall, such events are carried out after the plant has finished fruiting and shed its leaves. Typically, this period occurs in early or mid-October. 
For a successful transplant of currants, both spring and autumn are suitable, the main thing is that at this time the bush does not have leaves. But still, the gardener should not forget that after the spring transshipment, the "new settler" expects a hot summer, which may complicate the adaptation of the plant to a new place.
Therefore, autumn is considered the most suitable time for painless survival of an adult bush. This time period is characterized by consistently low average daily temperatures, as well as an abundance of moisture in the soil and air.
Before starting to transplant an adult plant, you must first carry out preparatory work with soil, which is better to start in advance, for example, for an autumn transplant - in the spring. These can consist of improving the composition of the soil, for example, the introduction of loose organic matter or sand, the destruction of perennial weeds - wheatgrass, sow thistle or dandelion, and the laying of drainage. 
Immediately before starting to move the shrub, it is necessary to prepare a recess required sizes, and only after that the currant bush is removed from the soil and its pre-planting processing is carried out (pruning dead roots and branches, and, possibly, part of the foliage).
Did you know? Currant varieties with black, red, pink, yellow and white berries belong to the same family and are closely related to the gooseberry.
So that, as a result of moving, the currants do not hurt, but quickly and without prejudice to fruiting adapt to a new place, several conditions must be observed when transplanting. It is important to choose a good place, prepare the soil, a hole for planting, remove the bush, and, possibly, carry out a small pruning of the plant before transplanting, and also plant the shrub correctly.
Long before work is carried out to move the shrub, it is necessary to correctly assess its future location. Familiarization with the composition of the soil is very important, since the center of the life of each plant is its root system. Therefore, it is necessary to examine the soil at the site of the future transplant and find out if it is sandy, silty or clayey. 
You can determine the composition of the soil using the wet method! This information will help you determine the most appropriate place for currants. In addition, since the structure of the substrate affects aeration and the need for drainage, it is determined whether the soil is compacted or rocky. Also check the percentage of organic matter and the pH of the earth. The optimum acidity level for the culture is in the range of 5.5–6.5.
It is advisable to choose a place for planting where the bush will be protected from northern winds, but well exposed to the sun's rays. This location will protect early flowering currants from spring frosts, which can damage the ovary.
The first step is to prepare a planting cut of a suitable depth and width, its volume will depend on the actual size of the roots. Too deep planting is the main reason for the death of the bush. The plant should be placed at ground level or even slightly higher; it is undesirable to bury it, especially in clayey soils, because the root system under these conditions will be deprived of a sufficient amount of air. Unlike the depth, the width of the planting hole should be much larger than the diameter of the underground part of the bush, at least three times wider. 
The roots of the culture develop horizontally, and most of them extend to the sides by 15-30 cm. This will be facilitated by loose soil, which will simplify the adaptation of the plant to a new place. If the soil is clay, it is advisable to add the necessary additives to its composition to improve aeration and drainage, but the owner of the berry plantation needs to be careful. Instead of improving the soil structure only in the planting hole, the gardener must correct the soil along the entire row of the berry, because water cannot quickly spread between two types of substrates with different characteristics.
Unable to absorb into the surrounding plant substrate, moisture will concentrate in the root zone and create a "swamp" every time the bush is watered. The ideal solution would be to "improve" the entire area of the berry bushes. For example, in an area with clay soil, it might be a good idea to add a lot of organic soil leavening agent such as peat or compost to provide more aeration and a good root development environment. Sometimes gardeners argue that it is not economical to fix the entire planting area or to form a planting hole three times the width of the coma. 
Perhaps this is true, but replacing dead plants is also very costly. The need to add fertilizer during transplantation is controversial. This often depends on the type of feeding. Plants naturally maintain functional balance or the relationship between root and crown according to growing conditions. A cactus that grows in an arid desert invests most its energy in the formation of roots to absorb water, while a tropical forest tree develops an aboveground component, since moisture is abundant.
Likewise, currants do not channel most of their energy into root development if there is a lot of nitrogen in the soil, which promotes crown development. But the harmonious development of the root apparatus and branches of the transplanted currant is necessary to return the bush to its functional balance. Experienced gardeners tend to believe that easily absorbed nitrogen should not be added to the transplanted berry bush. But slow-release fertilizers and other elements like phosphorus and potassium can be of great benefit. 
The first priority for a successful plant transplant is to transfer the mature shrub to a new location with an intact root system. To do this, they dig it out very carefully, trying to keep the earthen lump intact. Most likely, the gardener will need the help of several people to carry out this work.
Some gardeners believe that due to the loss of many roots during transplanting, the top of the shrub should also be trimmed to restore the balance of aboveground and underground to the plant. This is not always the case, even if all damaged, dry or diseased branches have to be removed, the only reason for excision of healthy parts is a decrease in transpiration.
Important!It should be remembered that auxin, an important natural hormone that promotes the development of plant roots, is produced in the vegetative parts - those that many gardeners prefer to remove when transplanting. In addition, the leaves produce carbohydrates during photosynthesis, which provide energy to the root system.
If a shrub has too many leaves, compared to the roots, it can lose more moisture than it can absorb, which means that the water balance is not observed. If currants are regularly watered after transplanting, there is no need to trim them.
Since an adult berry bush has a voluminous crown and a wide underground part, as well as a mass of 5 to 7 kg, then it is advisable to deliver it to a new place together. This will allow to keep the earthen lump intact, and, consequently, to carry out the transfer "by the transfer method" and to keep the root system intact.
After the shrub has been transplanted, it is necessary to carry out other agronomic operations. Some bushes, under their weight, can lose their horizontal orientation and tilt to one side. If you do not take action in time, the currants will take root in such a skewed position. Therefore, it is advisable to install a support that will prevent the plant from tilting to the ground. This can be a support in the form of a hoop raised above the soil, inside which the culture grows, or an ordinary wooden peg with. Among other things, the support provides protection from the mower operation and maintains the stability of the bush until its roots are fixed in the ground. The material used for the strapping must be elastic and have a wide flat surface to minimize abrasion and damage to the bush. Also, the fasteners should not be too rigid so as not to damage the bark or compress the trunk expanding during the growing season.
Important! Even if the currant transplanted to a new place is properly fixed, the plant must be periodically inspected and the degree of tension of the ropes changed. This must be done so that the bush does not die or be disfigured by a garter that has never been removed.
Another problem that occurs immediately after planting is the creation of a mulch layer under the plant. You can use black nonwovens, or cover the space under the currants with peat, sawdust, leaves, straw. If a grower tends to use spunbond or agrofibre, he should be aware that such material allows water and air to pass through it, and the black color prevents light from reaching the weed seeds and prevents them from germinating. 
You can sow the berry with grass or other ground cover plants, which looks very attractive aesthetically, but they will compete with the roots of the bush for water and nutrients. in itself has many advantages.
Did you know?In unripe currant fruits ascorbic acid 4 times more than in ripe berries.
In addition to aesthetics, it reduces the risk of weed germination, helps maintain soil moisture, reduces erosion, acts as a substrate temperature regulator, and guides the lawnmower user when they are close to the plant. Nevertheless, in some situations, this agricultural technique is undesirable. On poorly permeable soils, it increases moisture stagnation problems and reduces aeration, especially if the organic layer is thicker than 8–10 cm. In addition, the covered soil takes longer to warm up in spring.
Since red and black currants are varieties of the same culture, the requirements for transplanting conditions, cultivation and care are very similar for them. Both shrubs have a well-developed, but not deeply located, root system, which requires a constant presence of moisture in the soil, sanitary and rejuvenating pruning during the growing season, as well as protection from pests and fungal diseases.
When replanting adult black-fruited bushes, you can choose either a sunny or partial shade place in the garden. This berry plant will bear fruit with a slight lack of light. This is also the natural growth of wild forest currants, which can be found on shady edges and along the banks of small streams. 
A variety of culture with red fruits is more demanding for lighting and requires the presence of sunlight for 6-8 hours a day. Therefore, when looking for a good place in order to transplant an adult plant, it is imperative to take this feature into account, and avoid location near tall spreading trees or grape trellises. 
After the transplant is completed, and mulch is laid around the bush and a support system is arranged, it is necessary to continue to monitor the health of the plant. Regularly check soil moisture, inspect for potential disease and insect problems, crown damage and thermal burns. Sometimes special shading nets or spunbond are thrown on the branches of the bush to protect it from the scorching sun.
Many problems with rooting a seedling in a new place are caused by a deficiency or excess of moisture. The rate of water absorption in clayey soils is so low that most of it flows down without wetting the root zone. Plants in heavy soils should receive water very slowly and infrequently, but in large quantities. If the land is waterlogged, an anaerobic state often develops due to a lack of oxygen. Sandy substrates must be irrigated frequently because they do not retain liquid.
The success of transplanting "adult" currants lies in the regeneration of the underground part. Manipulation is traumatic for all parts of the plant, but if done correctly, the root system will begin to develop again. If carried out with care, a healthy berry bush will soon bear fruit in the garden.
Currant is a berry shrub that survives in temperate latitudes even in wild conditions but to get bountiful harvest, she needs proper care. How to transplant black currants in the fallwhy an autumn transplant is considered optimal time, we will consider in more detail.
Amateur gardeners often complain about the low yields of fragrant useful berries, not suspecting that a long stay in one area leads to a decrease in yield or even to the death of a shrub.There are several reasons why you shouldtransplant currants to another place. Let's sort them out in order.
A transplant is necessary for currants with the onset of unfavorableagrotechnical conditions, for example, the growth of the crown of trees, the shading of the berry. The lifespan of red currants is 10–12 years, and of black currants, 8–10. This cycle is due to the fact that the green part of the bush is regularly renewed, and the roots age, lose the ability to deliver water and nutrients to the leaves and fruits.
By dividing the bush and transplanting they reach plant rejuvenation. Transplanting currants from an infected area with subsequent treatment helps to rid the bushes of infection, but this must be done right by carefully processing the excavated bushes by preparing the quarantine area in advance.
The most popular among gardeners are black, red and white varieties of berry bushes. Transplant timing of each type of currant, depend on the growing season, structural features of the bush and root system. Black currant differs from white and red in terms of care, planting, reproduction:
The question is when you can transplant currants to another place,is solved individually for each type of shrub.
Transplanting currants in the spring to a new placeit is necessary to carry out before the start of sap flow, while the plant is in a dormant period. In mid-latitudes, the soil warms up by the end of March, and in the south, persistent warming begins about two weeks earlier. Mature bush it will take root in a new place in moist soil faster, and in spring the surface layer dries out very quickly due to the high activity of the sun and wind.
Spring transplanting requires care from every gardener in order not to miss the optimal time . Immediately after transplanting, the bushes are watered abundantly, the soil around is mulched. The height of the protective layer must be at least 7 cm so that possible frost does not reach the roots.
To the question, is it possible to transplant an adult currant bush in July, it would be necessary to answer unequivocally and categorically reject such terms. July heat is the worst time to plant or transplant currants, since this period coincides with fruiting. In the event of force majeure (moving, redevelopment of the site associated with construction, revelry of the elements), summer residents still transplant their favorite varieties.
If it is impossible to avoid a summer transplant, then try to follow the technology as much as possible. Unfortunately, a transplanted adult bush will not yield a crop in the current season - gardeners should be ready for this.
Transplanting black currants in the fall- the best option... After transplanting, the seedlings should have time to take root, get stronger before the onset of frost. For this, black currants will need at least two weeks, and red, white and other species should be transplanted 4–5 weeks before the start of the autumn cold snap.
If there is no urgent need to transplant red and white currants in autumn, then it is better to postpone transplanting these species until spring.
In most regions of Siberia and the Urals, it is better to plant currants in the spring, since spring in these areas it is stretched, the moisture necessary for the currants in the upper layers remains for a long time. Be sure to treat transplanted bushes with Bordeaux liquid (1%) and karbofos (7%): there is a high probability that immature seedlings will become an easy prey for pathogens and pests. Currant is a frost-resistant plant, but bushes,transplanted in autumnand those who have not yet gained strength, it is better to protect.
Let us dwell in more detail on the methods and timing of transplantation during the propagation of currants. The most common is grafting. This method is used to obtain planting material, multiply the variety, and increase the planting area. Cuttings harvested in the fall are stored until the end of winter in a refrigerator in a damp state or dripped on the site, and in early spring they are germinated in a nursery or greenhouse, then transplanted to the site.
The second way of reproduction is by layering. In the spring, with the beginning of sap flow, two-year-old shoots are bent to the ground so that the growth point lies in the prepared hole to a depth of 10-15 cm. The branch is fixed with clamps so that the dug part remains in a stationary position. A part 20 cm long should remain above the surface.
Layers are regularly watered, weeds are removed around them. In the fall, they are cut off from the mother bush, transplanted to a permanent place. The method of reproduction by dividing the bush is used for autumn or spring transplantation. Bushes of mature plants are thinned out, removing old shoots.
Young shoots are shortened with pruning shears to 30 cm, then they are divided so that each has a powerful root. Places of cuts are treated as when grafting, the bushes are immediately planted in a permanent place. With the reproduction of currants by dividing the bush, fruiting occurs in the second year.
The best soil for currants is loam with a neutral acidity level. Red and white berries tolerate a lack of moisture more easily, they can grow in sandy loam areas, but at the same time, of course, one cannot count on a high yield.
Black currant requires the constant presence of moisture in the area, but water stagnation should not be allowed, as this weakens the plant and leads to diseases. Black currants tolerate light shade, and for the red and white look, you need to choose the sunniest places. The rest of the requirements of all types for the selection of a site for planting are the same:
Experts believe that black currant secretes a large amount of phytoncides, suppressing the less aromatic types of red and white.
Before planting, the site is deeply dug up and rotted organic matter is added with the addition of complex mineral fertilizers... Currants are very demanding on the acidity of the soil, but complex laboratory analysis to determine the pH level is in most cases not available to amateur gardeners.
Solve this problem folk ways based on the experience of ancestors. Plants that have settled near the site can be a guide for determining the acid composition of the soil. On acidic soil, one of the plants listed below can be seen:
The soil with high acidity, heavier and more dense, leads to waterlogging or excessive moisture in the area, which negatively affects the growth and development of currants: a lack of oxygen causes chlorosis of the leaves, slows down the growth of bushes, and leads to dropping of inflorescences.
Non-infectious chlorosis is associated with a reaction in which magnesium and iron in acidic soil are poorly absorbed by the roots, and their deficiency weakens the plants. It will not be possible to cultivate the beds within one season, but the regular application of mineral fertilizers and the mulching of the bushes with organic matter will bring high yields of berries over time.
Most of all, acidic soil needs calcium and phosphorus fertilizers. Among the deficient trace elements in acidic soil are magnesium, manganese, copper, molybdenum. The issue is partially solved by the introduction of ash - 200 g / m².
Liming the soil is not required if the currants have become neighbors in the area:
An excess of fertilizer is just as harmful to currants as a lack.
Preparation for planting currants includes:
This simple stage must be treated responsibly, as a guarantee of the survival rate of currants, yield for the next 6-7 years. The preparation of the site should be done a year before planting the currants: the site must be saturated with nutrients. In addition to deep loosening and periodic removal of weeds during digging, you need to add a double rate of organic matter for loamy soil, black soil, and a triple rate for sandy loam soil.
If it is not possible to apply fertilizer to the entire area where currants are supposed to be grown, then organic matter is introduced into the planting pits no later than two weeks before planting. Depth of occurrence groundwater should not exceed 1 m. Otherwise, the soil should be drained. The choice of planting scheme for currants depends on the area of the site, as well as on the expected consumption of currant berries different types and varieties:
When growing currants on an industrial scale, enlarged planting schemes are used, where the distances in the aisles and in a row are twice as large. Such schemes are more suitable for mechanized processing.
The depth of the holes is calculated depending on the volume of the root system and another 8–10 cm is added to it in order to stimulate the development of fibrous roots in the root zone. Immediately before planting cuttings or currant bushes, pits or trenches must be filled with water (10 l / m²), and when the earth is compacted, sprinkle them with ash.
Put dried mint, calendula flowers, petunia, chamomile in the prepared pits. These plants need to be grown on site if you want pests to stay away from the garden.
A week before the transplant, it is better to feed the currants so that they can more easily endure the stress associated with trauma to the roots. Use complex ready-made mixtures. Water the currants the day before transplanting, and the next day after watering, dig out the bushes. Before planting, the seedlings should be pruned, old stems removed, and the leaves should be torn off in autumn. Divide large, overgrown bushes, choosing for planting the most succulent and productive roots and shoots. Shoot pruning helps plants to root quickly and shoot new shoots.
Root processing is a must. Dug out old bushes of black currant and young seedlings are dipped into a prepared "chatterbox" of clay, black soil and water, in a ratio of 1: 1: 3. It is better to add "Aktar" to this solution to protect the roots from pests and "Kornevin" - to quickly strengthen and develop fibrous roots.
Instructions for the use of drugs are indicated on the packaging. If the bushes are transplanted with a lump, then it is enough to water them in a new place with a solution containing a stimulant for root development and "Aktaru".
After the pits are prepared and the planting material is processed, the seedlings are placed in the holes and added dropwise. If you plant more than one bush, but a lot, then after placing the seedlings in the holes, do not leave the roots uncovered for a long time - they cannot be overdried. Sprinkle some damp earth over the roots.
If the bush is transplanted with a lump of earth, then it takes root easier and experiences less stress during transplantation. But otherwise, the technology of transplanting currants with a closed root system is no different from transplanting seedlings with open roots.
So that the soil in the root zone retains moisture and does not have to often water the currants, cover the plantings with mulch. Black agrofibre is well suited for covering the soil, which also protects the soil from drying out, and gardeners do not have to resort to frequent watering and loosening the soil after replanting currants. Black agrofibre is often used, which has the following advantages:
It is necessary to plant currants in an open area at a soil temperature of at least 9 ° C at a depth of 30-40 cm.
In order not to worry whether the young bush will take root, fertilizers are applied that will help grow a rich harvest:
After planting, the currants are watered abundantly, the ground should be constantly moist, but the water on the site should not stagnate. Watch the temperature of the air and water during autumn watering. The water should be defended and warmed up to room temperature, and the best time for watering - in the evening, before sunset, when the earth is warm enough.
Transplant activities should be carried out systematically, taking into account all necessary conditions for successful growth: soil composition, climatic and weather conditions, preparation of planting material and further care for plants.
Be sure to follow the rules of agricultural technology. For red currants, as mentioned above, the best time for transplanting is spring, and its pruning must be carried out before the start of the awakening of growth points. Systematic transplanting, at least once every 6-7 years, allows you to get higher yields of berries.
Further, a noticeable decrease in yield begins, the currant berries become small, and the bush almost does not form ovaries. It is better to choose zoned currant varieties, since exactlythey have the qualities necessary for the climate of your region. It remains to be hoped that the presented material will benefit those who grow currants on the site or are just going to do this, and wish a rich harvest to all lovers of fragrant and healthy berries!
Everyone knows that currant berries are not only tasty, but also healthy. Currants for the human body are a storehouse of vitamins, essential elements and organic acids, and if you want to harvest a high yield of currants every year, you need to take care of it, and not only before and during fruiting, but also in the fall, after harvesting. In our article, we will share with you information about which month to plant currants in the fall, how to plant currants correctly in autumn, how to care for currants in autumn, whether to cut currants in the fall, and how to properly prepare currants for wintering.
The main question that a novice gardener needs to solve is: when to plant currants - in spring or autumn? Plant currants in open ground it is possible during the entire growing season, however, in the spring, the buds of currants open too quickly, so you will have very little time between the moment the soil thaws and the beginning of sap flow in trees and shrubs. You may not be in time.
Therefore, many gardeners prefer autumn planting, after leaf fall, when sap flow slows down and the plant is preparing to enter a dormant period. From a botanical point of view, there is no difference between spring and autumn planting currants. The decisive factor in this matter is the climatic conditions of the region.
The survival rate of currant bushes will be much higher if, after planting, you create the most favorable conditions for them, but the quickly onset of frosts will easily destroy the plant that did not have time to take root. It is also of great importance what type of currant we are talking about: red currants are much weaker than black in autumn and can easily die in winter, therefore, it is better not to experiment with rare varieties of this culture, but to plant them in the garden in mid or late March, as soon as enough the soil will warm up.
Black currant is not so weak in autumn and in areas where winter comes late, it has time to set itself up and develop a strong root system - for this it takes four weeks until the air temperature drops to 0 ºC. In the conditions of the middle lane, this occurs approximately at the end of October, therefore, currant bushes in the fall in the ground, for example, in the Moscow region, need to be planted in September, in extreme cases, at the beginning of October.
In Siberia and the Urals, it is better to plant currants in the spring - the spring is long and wet there.
High-quality currant seedlings should have ripe shoots and succulent roots. Tear off all the leaves on the seedling, and if the roots are dry, lower them before planting in a bucket with a solution of ground insecticide, for example, Aktara - this will prevent damage to the roots by gnawing insects (wireworms, May beetles and others). Before planting, seedlings with succulent roots are dipped in a mash, consisting of 3 liters of water, 6 g of Aktara, 1-2 bags of Kornevin, 1 kg of clay and 1 kg of black soil. The talkers made according to this recipe should be enough for 15-20 currant seedlings.
A plot for currants is chosen flat, protected from the wind, with the occurrence of groundwater no higher than 1-1.5 m from the surface - currants do not tolerate wet soil and prolonged stagnation of water. Not suitable for growing crops and areas overgrown with wheatgrass. The best predecessors for currants are vegetables and flowers, perennial legumes (clover and lupine), mixtures of cereals and legumes, row crops, and after such plants as gooseberries, currants and raspberries, currants cannot be grown.
The best soil for currants is light to medium loam and cohesive sandy loam soils. Clay soils dry out poorly in spring, there is little air in them, it is difficult to keep them in a loose state, therefore, plants develop on them very slowly. In sandy soils, on the contrary, there is too much air, they do not retain moisture well, and plants suffer from drought and lack of nutrition.
3-4 weeks before planting, a deep digging of the site is carried out with the removal of the rhizomes of perennial weeds and the subsequent leveling and loosening of the surface. For digging, add 6-8 kg of humus or compost, 40-50 g of superphosphate and 20-30 g of potassium fertilizer to each m² of the plot.
Planting holes about 40x40 cm in size and 30-35 cm deep are dug two weeks before planting. Three-quarters of them are filled with soil from the top layer and left in such a way that the soil settles. How to plant currants in the fall? Before planting, the shoots of the seedling are shortened to 15-20 cm, and the roots are dipped in a chatterbox, then the seedling is placed in the planting pit at an angle of 45 º so that it is 6-8 cm deeper underground than it grew in the nursery. Shoots are fan-shaped.
Fill the roots of the currant with fertile soil, compact it, make a hole around the perimeter of the root circle and pour a bucket of water into it. When the water is absorbed, cover the tree trunk circle with humus, peat or dry sand.
Usually currants are planted in rows, keeping the distance between bushes 1-1.25 m, and between rows 2.5-3 m. For the most part, currants are self-fertile culture, but cross-pollination increases yields, so plant several inter-pollinated varieties on the site in separate rows.
Black currant bushes are cultivated for up to 10 years. They are, of course, at good care may bear fruit longer, but yields will gradually begin to decline, the quality of the berries will deteriorate, and the size will decrease. The still old bush needs to be dug up, divided, and those parts that are younger and more promising should be planted in a new place. When to transplant currants in the fall? The currant is transplanted at the same time as the initial planting - after the end of the growing season, when the bush will drop all the leaves.
Caring for currants in the fall consists of such procedures as watering, weeding and loosening the area, pruning, treatment from pests and diseases, and preparation for wintering. But there is a big difference between caring for mature bushes and seedlings. So, how to care for currants in the fall so that they take root successfully?
At first, currant seedlings need abundant watering - the roots are literally kept in water, like rice. After two weeks, watering becomes less frequent and plentiful. For adult bushes, in dry autumn, they carry out podzimny water-charging irrigation - 3-5 buckets are poured per m² of the plot in order to wet the soil 40-50 cm deep.
Top dressing of currants in the fall is done so that they can survive the winter without harm to health. However, when planting, such an amount of organic matter and minerals is introduced into the soil, which will be enough for seedlings for more than one year, so you can skip fertilizing currants in the fall.
Many insect pests and pathogens overwinter in the upper layer of the soil, and with the onset of spring they begin their harmful activity in the currant. How to treat currants in the fall from diseases and pests? Spraying the bushes and the soil under them with a 7% solution of Karbofos is effective against insects, and against diseases - with a 1% Bordeaux liquid. Before processing, it is necessary to remove fallen leaves and debris from under the bushes.
