Price: 1300 rubles
In the heating equipment store, you can buy a thermocouple for a gas boiler AOGV-11.5 Dani at a price of 1300 rubles!
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C The goal of this article is to teach us to understand how speakers work. But the articles are different. Moreover, it is not clear where they came from. Hence the question: Why can the article be trusted? In fact, in order to choose a gas water heater due to a lack of information necessary for making a decision, we all start doing the same Internet idiotic thing, looking for reviews about gas water heaters. The reviews we come across are quite different, but somehow very, very subjective. Sometimes they are just funny and written to the level kindergarten, like "Do not hang out with Natasha, she bites." In general, we decided to take a chance and leave our feedback here. It is clear that reviews of spare parts sellers can be highly contaminated with the interests of any speaker seller. What's the best speaker? Of course, which I sell - and there is no doubt about it. But we have found one option, where only one basis will be laid for achieving our mutual trust. - knowledge... Nothing else. Knowledge on this matter is purely technical... Now we will look inside the column and try to prove to you that we really know what it is about. And at this moment you will simply be there. The other way is simply false. Therefore, this article is a kind of result of research. For today, there may be the only and best objective version for consultation in our store. Although, very possibly, in six months, we will gain additional knowledge and will talk a little differently. Knowing modern technical level the average buyer, we consider it our duty to warn that the article is uninteresting and difficult.
A chain of events prompted me to write this publication that forced me to try my hand at self-servicing a gas boiler. I will note right away that this is not exactly an "exchange of best practices", as it is usually presented, since some of the stated facts speak, on the contrary, about the initial complete inexperience of the user. But, perhaps, the information presented will help those who read it to avoid such mistakes.
The fact is that with the seeming abundance of information on the network, we had to face the fact that intelligible step by step instructions it's not so easy to find - most often everything is limited to selective tips on the forums. The factory operating manual covers many problems rather dryly, and does not bring much clarity, and some important aspects are practically missed in it, which, in principle, led to the situation that will be discussed. So, what caused and how the cleaning of the gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3 was carried out with your own hands.
In the acquired own house we moved in September 2002. The heating system was (and still is), but then it was organized according to the principle of natural circulation. Boiler room - in a separate annex, equipped according to all available rules. An old cast iron boiler with gas burners, some, as I remember now, incredibly large, also with "self-made" masonry of fireclay bricks inside. It was complete ruin with him: every month in our not the coldest winters (Moldova, Transnistria), the counter turned up 800 cubic meters!
In short, it was decided to replace it. We opted for AOGV-11.6-3-U, both for reasons of low cost, and given the mass good reviews about this model from friends. Simultaneously was installed and circulation pump... The results were not long in coming - already next winter the house was much more comfortable, and the heat was distributed evenly throughout all the rooms. And the monthly gas consumption fell by more than three times! - we usually fit in 220 - 270 cubic meters.
gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3
To the credit of the manufacturers, it must be said right away that over the past 13 years there have been absolutely no problems with the operation of these purchased devices. Even in cold winter 2008-2009, when the next "gas war" was going on, and the pressure in the gas supply pipes was reduced to a critical minimum, the boiler coped with the task - it was not hot at home, and we were not in danger of freezing. To be honest, it was even strange for me to read on the forums that many houses have a gas valve button permanently tied to them - no problems with the automation for the entire period of operation simply manifested itself.
The inspectors of the gas industry in our city are regularly visiting. There have never been any special complaints about the operation of the equipment. The only remark was the year before last - to replace the corrugated section of the chimney (before the insert into the main pipe) with a galvanized one. The flaw has been eliminated.
This year the cold snap came early, and already at the beginning of October it was decided to start the boiler at the lowest power. But a problem arose - the fuse of the igniter did not want to ignite, and if it did, it did so with such a tiny flame that it was barely visible. Naturally, such a torch did not warm up the thermocouple, and the automation did not work.
A similar situation (but on a smaller scale: the torch lit up immediately, but was weak) was observed a year earlier. The igniter nozzle was clearly jammed, and last year it helped that I (at my own peril and risk) managed to spray a can of carburetor cleaning fluid on this "jet" through a long curved tube. After the liquid evaporated, I tried to light it up - everything worked, and last winter, during the entire heating season, no more problems arose.
Last year, we managed to do without a showdown - the nozzle was cleaned of such liquid for carburetors. But this year, such a measure turned out to be insufficient - the effect was even the opposite. The igniter stopped igniting altogether.
I really didn’t want to completely remove the entire gas unit with burners (and then I didn’t know how affordable it was). I tried by unscrewing the gas supply pipe to the igniter from the magnetic valve block and blow it out with a car pump. Useless. There was nothing to do - I had to think about how to remove the entire burner block in order to mechanically clean the igniter nozzle.
The boiler is naturally connected, the system is full. Access from below is minimal, since the boiler is still in a special pit. All this was very frightening at first - how to dismantle the gas unit? I did not find any sensible advice, but I came across a tip on one of the forums - this node rotates about the central axis - the input gas pipe.
Since no operations of any significant scale were expected, I did not take a photo at that stage. The operations shown below were carried out later when the boiler was disassembled again. But the essence remains the same.
The burner block itself is mounted on the bottom cover. Arrow pos. 1 shows the inlet of the gas supply pipe to the main burner. Pos. 2 is the inlet for the pilot and thermocouple tubes. And this entire unit, in addition to the rigidity of the gas pipe, is held on the flange of the cylindrical boiler casing by three hooks. They are located along the edge of the bottom plate at the vertices of a regular triangle. The blue arrow shows one of them, the one that is located slightly to the left of the ignition window.
The second hook is closer to the back of the boiler on the left (if you stand facing the ignition window).
The third is almost exactly under the automation unit, at the level of the vertical pipes going down to the pallet.
a gas boiler
1 - tube of gas supply to the igniter torch. Key for 12.
2 - a tube with a thermocouple contact. Key for 12.
3 - gas supply pipe to the main burner. Key for 27.
The paronite gasket on the main gas pipe has been removed. Checked - excellent condition. On the flare tube - the gasket remained on the tee fitting, but also - it is clear that it is not worn out, and will still serve quite well.
The photo shows the removed pallet, but I will make a reservation once again - the photos were taken later, during the secondary disassembly of the boiler. The picture was much cleaner the first time. Further, it will be clear from the text why so much attention is paid to this.
The brass nozzle itself was covered with a light white coating (such as scale) on top, and this was removed very quickly, without effort, with fine sandpaper. The nozzle itself, yes, was overgrown, barely "drawn" even visually. Also okay - I took a thin copper vein from the loose cable and cleaned the hole. To guarantee, I also blew it under pressure with a pump from the side of the tube connecting to the tee of the automation unit. The whole task is completed!
It is necessary first to progressively, without skewing, raise this entire block so that the burner goes inside the housing, and the igniter and thermocouple assembly does not cling to the casing flange. Then, standing on the side of the pipes, slightly push the entire unit towards you, give a slight downward slope so that the opposite edge of the pallet rises slightly (literally a couple of degrees!). Then, feeding the pallet forward, you should simultaneously put on two distant hooks so that they go to the flange of the casing. Direct the hook closest to you into the cut out groove, and when it enters it, turn the entire pallet counterclockwise. The amount of this rotation will be visually prompted by the position of the pipes - the gas pipe will be right under its branch pipe of the automation unit, as it was during disassembly.
Everything, set about the required heating level, closed the flap on the ignition window, and left, full of pride in the work successfully done.
I didn’t know then that my "adventures" were just beginning!
Find out by studying the main assessment criteria in a special article on our portal.
For several days the operation of the boiler did not cause any complaints - it did not die out, the heating system worked well. However, about a week passed, and it seemed to me that a previously unusual smell appeared in the boiler room - this is not the smell of pure gas, but rather the "aroma" of burnt gas. In addition, the impression began to appear that, according to the sensations of the home, the warmth was lacking.
A couple of times the boiler went out at night - for no apparent reason. And then - more. About a week later, entering the boiler room, I saw an eerie picture - the burner flame is trying to "get out" through the ignition window closed with a shield. A fairly large section of the metal casing above the window is almost red-hot, the paint on it is completely burnt to the "pure" metal.
Naturally, the boiler was immediately extinguished. After it cooled down, I tried, as an experiment, to carry out the ignition. The wick works fine, the automation works well too. But when the main burner is ignited, then, firstly, the flame has pronounced orange ends of the flame tongues. And secondly - the "crown" of the flame is not directed completely upwards, but also tends to the gap between the heat exchanger and the outer casing of the boiler.
It is clear - this is a clear sign that the flow of hot gases inside the boiler encounters some kind of resistance, in a word - the channels are overgrown with soot. Soot is everywhere, even on the bypass of the ignition window - it has never happened before that I somehow got my hands dirty when firing up, and now black spots appear on my fingers, by the way, very difficult to wash off even with warm water and soap.
But the question remains unclear - why? After all, for so many years, I have never had to face such a problem.
Climbed through the forums again - to look for the reason. And on one of them I came across practical advice - such a picture is characteristic of incomplete combustion of gas, without the supply of additional air. He began to understand more closely with the design of his boiler, and revealed something that he simply did not pay attention to earlier. This is a clamp-like damper at the inlet of the gas pipe to the boiler, from below, right at the sump. There, on the pipe, there are two diametrically opposite holes, which are covered by this damper.
I ran to check: it is - the damper almost completely covers both holes. Poor knowledge of the "materiel" led to the fact that I did not pay attention to this nuance at all. And in the process of disassembling the burner block, apparently, he accidentally moved this damper to a position in which air access was blocked.
I tried to open these windows and fire up the boiler - yes, the flame immediately changed color and became more even. But the "crown", of course, still tends to the space between the casing and the heat exchanger, that is, the reason found does not save me from cleaning the boiler.
It is clear that in order to carry out cleaning, I need to disassemble again - also dismantle the burner block, and plus to this - remove the upper cover of the boiler.
He built the boiler pipe himself, did it in due time with high quality, and it "sits" very tightly. I had to make an effort to achieve a slight backlash. But in the end it turned out - we managed to raise it so that there was enough clearance to remove the umbrella from the pipe. The picture was very colorful.
Soot deposits are visible under the umbrella itself. And if you look at the umbrella from below, then on the hemispherical divider-condensate collector there is a soft loose layer of soot about 10 millimeters thick.
I immediately checked the paronite gasket - it was "alive", remained in place, and therefore decided not to disturb it.
The self-tapping screw, which is located on the front side of the boiler, came out quite easily.
But the other two showed "fierce resistance." They simply didn’t want to start moving. Neither powerful screwdrivers, nor WD-40 processing, nor tapping helped - they stand motionless.
In the end, the slots for the screwdriver began to "lick" - but all with the same zero result. There was only one way out - to cut off the heads of the self-tapping screws with a grinder, fortunately, they are not made "under the sweat".
self-tapping screws
It's okay - I cut it very carefully. Looking ahead, I will say that I subsequently replaced these fasteners with roofing screws with a hex head - in case of future boiler cleaning. Holds even better, and twisting is no problem.
On the back side of the lid, traces are clearly visible, which remained due to the incorrect passage of combustion products. They found their way between the heat exchanger and the boiler casing, then converging to the central opening of the chimney.
Naturally, there is no need to talk about any efficiency of the boiler in such a situation - it rather warmed up the boiler room than gave off heat to the system. It is better to keep silent about the safety of such functioning.
I thought they were spring-loaded - nothing like that. These wedges are made from plain mild steel, and their antennae are curved in the same way as conventional cotter pins. They are easily brought to the center, and then the wedge is removed from the slot.
This small gap between the heat exchanger and the lid, in which the gas flows from three channels must be combined into one central one to exit the chimney, is tightly clogged with soot.
The picture turned out even worse than I could have imagined - the soot layer on the turbulator blades is impressive in its thickness!
At the same time, I immediately see the state of these vertical cylindrical channels. The picture is appropriate ...
Naturally, even if the draft problems are “taken out of the brackets”, there is no question of any efficiency of the boiler with such an overgrown heat exchanger outside.
I know that blue duct tape is a "classic" for home art, but I only had a white one 🙂 And to clean the rest of the parts and surfaces, I bought a flat brush with soft brass bristles.
The burner itself is clean this time, except for the soot that attacked from above - it was easily brushed off with a brush. At the same time, I immediately clean up the thermocouple tube with a "zero" - it will not hurt.
And here I immediately focused my attention on the position of the valve of the air channel. When cleaning, I removed this clamp from the pipe (I really don't know why), but when reverse installation it turned out that it was made of mild steel, and did not possess any springy qualities. After installation, he began to hang out and just slide down. I had to make a small improvement - to drill holes in the "ears", and after putting on the shutter, tighten it a little with a long M5 screw. It turned out fine - now the clamp is securely held in the given position, but it is not difficult to move it either.
The illustration shows that the air inlets are half open.
The installation of turbulators is very simple, and it is simply impossible to make a mistake here - they are inserted into the channels and held in them due to the broadening of the central metal plate located on top. I insert them so that this plate is oriented along the radius of the cylindrical heat exchanger, that is, the blades will be located approximately tangentially to the circle.
I insert metal cotter pins-wedges into the slots of the lugs, and slightly knock them out from the back - so that the lid fits as tightly as possible to the heat exchanger. After that, I spread the antennae with pliers - that's it, the lid is securely fixed.
I open the gas supply - the burner ignites easily, the fire burns with an even crown, with the same height of the tongues of flame, and they do not look to the sides, but are directed pronouncedly upward, which was required to be proved!
Two weeks have passed since then - there were no complaints about the boiler's operation! Winter is ahead, and I hope that the heating system will not bring us any unpleasant surprises.
And for myself I decided the following:
Find out how to do it by examining the mandatory requirements in a special article on our portal.
The author is aware that such work, in fact, should be carried out by appropriate specialists. Therefore, this article should be regarded not as a guide to action, but only as a story about what happened - how one very small mistake, inattention, led to serious problems and required their urgent elimination. I hope that the information received will be useful to someone.
The domestic gas heating boiler with a water circuit AOGV-11.6-3 Economy is designed for water heating of residential and office premises equipped with water heating systems (CO).
The device operates on natural and liquefied gases. The manufacturer supplies devices with natural gas injectors. To work on liquefied gas it is necessary to replace natural gas nozzles with liquefied gas nozzles.
These units can be installed in a closed heating system with a membrane expansion tank. The pressure in the heating system in working condition (at a water temperature in the heating system of 60 - 80 ° C) should be no more than 1.5 kgf / cm2.
A safety valve must be installed on the riser (outlet pipe), adjusted to operate at a pressure in the heating system of 1.8 ± 0.1 kgf / cm2. To control the pressure in the heating system, a pressure gauge with a measurement limit of 0.4 kg / cm2 must be installed.
Fig. 1. Heating gas boiler AOGV-11.6 household Economy
1. Traction breaker; 2. Door of the traction breaker; 3. Casing; 4. Traction sensor; 5. Branch pipe for installing a thermometer; 6. Thermal balloon of the automation unit; 7. Door; 8. Traction sensor cable; 9. Serpentine; 10. Automation block; 11. Gas cock; 12. Gas pipeline; 13. Igniter; 14. Thermocouple; 15. Shield; 16. Burner; 17.
Water supply pipe from CO; 18. Tank heat exchanger; 19. Turbulator; 20. Water outlet pipe to CO.
The device is designed as a floor cabinet cylindrical, the front side of which is closed by a door that provides access for starting the device into operation and regulating heating modes.
Fig. 2. Boiler automation unit AOGV-11.6
1. Union nut of thermocouple; 2. Launcher button; 3. Union nut of the thrust sensor; 4. Sealing washer; 5. Stock; 6. Adjusting nut; 7. Bushing;
8. Nut; 9. Screw.
The automation block is an electromechanical device and consists of a block body, inside which there are valves and a system of levers,
electromagnet, and serves to supply gas to the igniter and burner, regulate the water temperature and automatically turn off the gas supply when:
The fading of the igniter.
The drop in gas pressure in the network is below the permissible level or the gas supply is cut off;
Lack of draft in the chimney.
The traction switch 1 (Fig. 1) is intended for automatic stabilization of the vacuum value in the furnace of the apparatus, i.e. reducing the influence of fluctuations in the magnitude of vacuum in the chimney on the draft in the furnace of the apparatus. For successful operation, the door of the traction breaker 2 should rotate easily on the axis.
The automatic equipment of the AOGV-11.6 gas boiler for regulating the water temperature consists of a bellows-thermal balloon assembly 6 installed inside the tank of the apparatus and a system of levers with a valve located in the automation unit.
An adjusting nut 6 (Fig. 2) is fixed on the body of the block, by rotating which you can adjust the automation to a temperature from 50 ° C to 90 ° C. This temperature change is caused by the movement of the bellows together with the stem 5 up (down) when the adjusting nut is rotated.
After heating the water to the temperature corresponding to the setting, the gas supply to the burner is automatically reduced and it switches to the “low fire” mode.
When the water temperature in the apparatus decreases (no more than 15 ° C) as a result of heat extraction during heating or extraction hot water, the gas flow to the burner is automatically increased. The temperature of hot water in the hot water supply system during its intake should not exceed 60 ° C.
The thrust automation consists of a thrust sensor 4 (Fig. 1) mounted on the tank lid and a cable 8 connecting the thrust sensor to the magnetic box.
Fig. 3. Boiler ignition device AOGV-11.6
1. Thermocouple; 2. Igniter
The ignition device (Fig. 3) is intended for fastening the igniter, thermocouple and igniting the main burner. The pilot flame should wash over the end of the thermocouple.
The safety of the gas boiler AOGV-11.6 is ensured by automation, which is triggered when:
The extinction of the flame on the igniter;
Lack of draft in the chimney;
Gas supply interruption or gas pressure drop below the lower value.
In this case, the gas supply to the igniter and the main burner is automatically cut off.
Preparing the AOGV-11.6 boiler for operation
The room where the AOGV-11.6 boiler is installed must have free air access from the outside and a ventilation hood at the ceiling and meet the requirements for the placement of heating units intended for heating and hot water supply for single-family or
blocked residential buildings.
The installation of a boiler unit in a residential building is allowed only if there is a chimney with the removal of combustion products from the device into it. The chimney must meet all requirements.
The chimney duct must have a "free" cross-section not less than the diameter of the gas outlet of the apparatus, be strictly vertical, smooth, even, without turns and constrictions.
The outer surface of the chimney, located above the roof, must be plastered cement mortar... The part of the chimney located in the attic must be plastered and insulated.
Below the place of connection to the chimney of the connecting pipe from the device in the chimney, there should be a "pocket" with a depth of at least 25 cm with a hatch for cleaning. To ensure optimal working vacuum in the chimney, we recommend that the chimney height is at least 5 meters.
The connection of the AOGV-11.6 boiler to the chimney must be carried out with pipes made of roofing steel. The diameter of the pipes must be at least the diameter of the traction breaker of the apparatus. The pipes must fit tightly without gaps into one another along the course of the combustion products by at least 0.5 of the pipe diameter.
The vertical section of the chimney, located directly above the traction chopper, should be as long as possible, but not less than 0.5 m.
Gasket connecting pipes through living rooms is prohibited. Long horizontal sections of the flue pipe should be avoided if possible.
The total length of horizontal sections of connecting pipes should be no more than 3 m. (In existing houses, a length of no more than 6 m is allowed).
Pipe slope to the side gas appliance must be at least 0.01. Radii of curvature should not be less than the pipe diameter.
The AOGV-11.6 gas boiler is installed near fireproof walls at a distance of at least 15 cm from the wall. If the device is installed near a fire-resistant wall, its surface must be insulated with a steel sheet over a 5 mm thick sheet of asbestos protruding 10 cm beyond the dimensions of the case.
There must be a 1 m wide passage in front of the unit.When the unit is installed on wooden floor, the floor should be insulated with a steel sheet over a 5 mm thick asbestos sheet. The insulation should protrude 10 cm beyond the dimensions of the case.
To improve the conditions for the circulation of water in the heating system, it is preferable to install the boiler as low as possible the level of heating devices (radiators). The expansion tank is located at the highest point of the system. The heating system must be top-wired.
The surface of the heating devices is determined by calculation. To avoid obtaining a large hydraulic resistance of the system, it is not recommended to underestimate the diameters of the pipelines.
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OPERATION AND REPAIR OF BOILERSProterm Panther
What is gas boiler aogv? The abbreviation means that this is a gas hot water heating apparatus, that is, a gas boiler for house or apartment heating systems. From the usual boilers that are installed in individual heating systems, gas boilers AOGV are distinguished by the fact that they have complete non-volatility (the ability to fully operate in an autonomous mode, without being connected to the electrical network), are equipped with an automatic control and management system (ACS) that can control equipment modes, air draft controllers and flame forces in the wick without human intervention ...
Versatility and autonomy are the main advantages of a boiler in a private house. The versatility lies in the fact that the equipment can operate not only from a centralized gas pipeline, but also from bottled gas - it is enough to change the type of burner. In addition, in the absence of electricity electronic system control is successfully replaced by mechanical automation - this is complete energy independence and autonomy.
For housing of different sizes, you can select boilers of the appropriate power, and this parameter is reflected in the labeling of the unit: for example, the brand of the AOGV 17 boiler is deciphered as a gas hot water heating apparatus with a maximum power of 17 kW. 
Heat generating elements of the unit: automation devices and sensors, combustion chamber, jacket (heat exchanger), air duct (chimney duct). In the Russian Federation, the main suppliers of this autonomous heating equipment are the Borinsky and Zhukovsky plants - all Zhukovsky and Borinsky plants are floor-mounted. Borinsky plant is engaged in the production of floor-type heaters in a rectangular case, with automatic equipment located in the back of the same case. All automatics are mounted in different versions and configurations - it can be domestic mechanical and / or electronic equipment, as well as automatics of European or American production.
Borinsky plant manufactures boilers with a nominal power of 7, 11, 17, 23 and 29 kW in two modifications - a single-circuit boiler and a combined unit with two circuits, and this allows heating in economy mode even small houses with a total area of up to 70 m 2. In this feature, the advantage of Borin units over Zhukovsky ones, which are designed for large areas.
The copper thermocouple is the next main element of the circuit, which brings into operation solenoid valve shutting off the gas into the combustion chamber when the wick decays. The combustion chamber, which is equipped with gas boilers for a private house of the AOGV brand, is open, which means that air to maintain combustion enters the chamber from the surrounding atmosphere. Such a device of the installation scheme should provide for the presence of both natural and forced ventilation in a private house. But with good natural draft, an electric fan can only be used in extreme cases. 
The jacket with the coolant is located in the upper part of the combustion chamber, above the burner. Both circuits (if the boiler is double-circuit) have their own separate heat exchanger with separate flows of water and / or heat carrier.
Zhukovsky Machine-Building Plant manufactures boilers with nominal power of 11, 17, 23 and 29 kW in three versions: economical heater (economy class), universal boiler (station wagon class), and comfort class.
Automation differs in these units - in terms of configuration and country of origin. All boilers have piezoelectric ignition of the burner, which corresponds to the definition of heater autonomy. Depending on the power of the device, according to the marking in the passport, you can find out what area a particular unit can heat. 
The high efficiency of AOGV - up to 92% - means that the installation of this equipment will bring maximum heating efficiency, and this is due to original design shirts. The boilers can be operated in heating systems with forced or natural circulation of the coolant, provided that the pressure in the system is not less than 1.4 atm. Such conditions will be able to provide a liquid temperature of + 40 / + 90 0 С.
The disadvantage of this equipment can be considered too high power - even the smallest boiler produced by the Zhukovsky plant is designed to heat an area of at least 200 m 2, which means that in small houses its installation will be impractical and expensive.
The burner in any modification and brand of the boiler is made of stainless steel, so its durability is guaranteed. The jacket for hot water supply is made of copper, the body of the unit is coated with polymer or powder paint. Standard automation has temperature sensors and regulators to control the temperature of the coolant and prevent overheating of the boiler. The package also includes a thermocouple that controls the gas flow rate, and an air flow stabilizer, which serves to compensate for air pressure drops during gusts of wind, and in calm weather shuts off the gas. 
| Names | AOGB-11.6 | AOGBK-11.6 | AOGB-17.4 | AOGBK-17.4 | AOGB-23.2 | AOGBK-23.2 | AOGB-29 | AOGB-35 | AOGBK-35 |
| Indicators | |||||||||
| Rated power, kW | 11,6 | 11,6 | 17,4 | 17,4 | 23,2 | 23,2 | 29,0 | 29,0 | 35,0 |
| Consumption of main or cylinder gas | |||||||||
| Main, m Z / h | 1,19 | 1,19 | 1,75 | 1,75 | 2,32 | 2,32 | 2,95 | 3,56 | 3,56 |
| Balloon, kg / h | 0,865 | 0,865 | 1,215 | 1,215 | – | – | – | – | – |
| Heated area, square meters | 120 | 120 | 100-200 | 100-200 | 100-250 | 100-250 | 150-300 | 150-400 | 150-400 |
| Efficiency ≥ 90% | 90,0 | 90,0 | 90,0 | 90,0 | 90,0 | 90,0 | 90,0 | 90,0 | 90,0 |
| DHW consumption when heating water at 35 ° C, liters per minute | – | 3,5 | – | 3,5 | – | 7,0 | – | – | 10,0 |
| Connection thread, inches | 1/2 | 1/2 | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 | 3/4 |
| Lead in / out | |||||||||
| To the heating system | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 1/2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
| TO DHW system | – | 1/2 | – | 1/2 | – | 1/2 | – | 1/2 | – |
| Diameter of the gas outlet, ≥ decimeters | 1,15 | 1,15 | 1,25 | 1,25 | 1,38 | 1,38 | 1,38 | 1,38 | 1,38 |
| Dimensions, cm | |||||||||
| Height | 86,5 | 86,5 | 86,5 | 86,5 | 85,0 | 85,0 | 85,0 | 85,0 | 85,0 |
| Width | 41,0 | 41,0 | 41,0 | 41,0 | 33,0 | 33,0 | 38,0 | 38,0 | 38,0 |
| Depth | 41,0 | 41,0 | 41,0 | 41,0 | 55,0 | 55,0 | 55,0 | 55,0 | 55,0 |
| Weight, kg | 43,0 | 47,0 | 49,0 | 52,0 | 56,0 | 72,0 | 65,0 | 80,0 | 82,0 |
| Models with 23.2 kW 29 and 35 kW - rectangular case | |||||||||
Professional installation of a gas heater in a private house costs about 1.5 times less than the average cost of a boiler. Any unit can work as in, while the non-volatility properties are preserved in any case.
Sealed circuit standard installation - explanation:
In heating systems by open type the expansion tank itself serves as the air vent; therefore, it is not necessary to install valves on all radiators. The tank cuts into the coolant supply pipe, above gas boiler, at the highest point of the pipeline, it is also allowed to cut it into the return pipe. In systems with natural circulation of the coolant, it is necessary to ensure the required slope of the pipes (20 per 10 linear meters) so that the liquid does not stagnate in the system, but circulates freely.
When decoding the abbreviation, the advantages of the units become clear, namely:
Installation of AOGV is advisable only in private residential buildings, and not in apartments because of their high power and large size.
