House, design, repair, decor. Yard and garden. Do it yourself

House, design, repair, decor. Yard and garden. Do it yourself

» How to put the knife on the sharpener. How to sharpen a knife

How to put the knife on the sharpener. How to sharpen a knife

Selecting on nature, and even more so, before the hunt, you always need to make sure that the knife is not blocked. With a stupid weapon, you will not leave, but you still need to know how to get a knife correctly. This process takes a certain time, besides, it is necessary to take into account the type of steel, from which the tool is made to sharpen it effectively.

Gourmet knife

It is possible to sharpen knives using such devices:

  • Grindstone

Bruks for sharpening differ in material and grain. The most durable grinding stone - with a diamond abrasive, draining knives faster than other materials. It also happens ceramic grinding bar, and "hard." According to grain, they differ in small, medium and high degree. It is impossible to set quality knives using a stone of only one grain degree, you always need to alternate them. To prepare a stone to work, it is necessary to remove a small chips from it, which remain on its surface after sharpening. To do this, you need to moisten it with water from the sprayer. Diamond grinding stones always require wetting.

  • Grinding machines (electrical and mechanical)

The tool sharpening is made on a special machine with abrasive discs. The blade should be evenly pressed against the abrasive circle at an angle of 25-30 degrees on minimal revs. There is such a procedure at home problematic, and with an imperative use of the machine you can spoil the knife.

Special electrical equipment - very comfortable tool. She herself picks up the desired sharpening angle suitable for any kind of blades - scissors, knives, screwdrivers, etc. With its help, you can point to fragile ceramic knives.

  • Musat

It is a vest, cylindrical instrument with a handle made of metal, ceramics or with diamond spraying. When sharpening this tool, it is necessary to hold it correctly, namely: Musat must rest in a wooden surface. The knife should be pressed by a clinic at an acute angle to Musatatu near his handle, then lowered with an energetic movement to the end of Musat. The same should be done on the other side of the blade. Movements are made on an arc, dragging from the handle to the end of the blade. It should be borne in mind that the Musatom will not be compared to the stupid blade, it can only be aligned with the edge of the gun.

  • Grind set

Sharpened knife Bruzomena

How to sharpen the blades from different steel

Knives from the best metals, - Damaska \u200b\u200band Bulat Steel are sharpened not as the tools from ordinary metals. But how to correct such knives?

Damascus Steel.

Knives from Damascus began to be sharpened with the help of grinding machines. Only manual sharpening should be used, since otherwise the tool will lose its unique properties, which are due to the mixing of solid and soft grades of steel in its composition. Before sharpening the blade, it is necessary to determine its hardness: the sharper edge of the blade, the harder the metal. You need to sharpen a damask knife along the blade using a fine-grained grinding stone with a gradual transition to the "velvet" sandpaper.

Bulat Steel

Bulat steel blade should be sharpened wet ramp first large grain, then shallow, in the final of the finals is carried out on ceramics. The correctness of the cryptic steel sharpening process can be viewed on the video.

For sharpening a hunting blade exist various methods. Consider two of them:

  1. To implement the first method, you will need: a grinding bar, a convection belt and a polishing paste. The surface of the rapid bar must be positioned at an angle of 10-15 degrees in relation to the side surface of the knife blade. This will help achieve the perfect sharpening angle, which is 35-45 degrees for hunting blades.

Perpendicular to the direction of the cutting edge are made reciprocating movements. At the same time, the sharp face of the knife will resemble the sawing teeth, the dimensions of which will be directly proportional to the abrasive of the grinding bar. Having drained the blade, it is necessary to do it slowly, ranging from handles to the end of the tip and back. Both verge of blade are sharpened in turn. If the blade has not yet been sharpening or was sharpened unsuccessfully, it is necessary at the beginning of the process to press the knife bar more strongly. As the necessary sharpening angle is achieved, the clamp changes to the weaker.

After that, it is necessary to give the clinch even more acute. This will require a belt and polishing paste. The blade with the entire surface is applied to a strongly stretched strap, then reciprocating movements begins to the belt is located perpendicular to the direction of holding the knife.


Sharpening on stone
  1. For the implementation of the second method, you will need lemon zest, sandpaper paper with small abrasive, grinding stone.

Before you correctly sharpen a hunting knife, it is necessary to check the hardness of the metal from which it is made. To do this, you can use the addil, by spending them on the blade. The hardness of the blade is normal, if with a weak pressing the addil will simply slide on the blade, and with strong - a little cling steel.

Next, you need to take several grinding stones with different grain size (usually used from three to five such stones). During sharpening, all grinding stones are used, starting in the most coarse-grained, and finishing fine-grained. So that the knives are sharp, you need to choose the correct sharpening amplitude. The movement of the grinding stone should be directed against the sharpening of the blade, withsting the middle angle.


Final grinding of the blade is made by sandpaper. The blade is polished by the movement "from himself" across traces left by a sharpening tool. Grinding is performed until even the slightest traces of sharpening will not be imperceptible. Again, it is important to observe right corner sharpening. After that, the blade is rubbing the lemon zest to give the strength of the surface of the knife.

Sharpen a knife - it would seem that it could be easier? AN no - the wisdom in this matter is very much, and here you need if not skill, then at least knowledge of the basic rules of high-quality sharpening. But you should not immediately carry your knives to the workshop, it is unlikely that someone will find an individual approach to each blade. They are driven through a circle rotating on high speedAnd immediately give you. And the hot metal needs proper cooling. In production, strictly observing the hardening technology began, they do, but in the workshops - no.

Is it possible to do without sharpening?

Unfortunately, even the best knife, if they enjoy constantly, sooner or later fastened. Micron The blade micron will be stitched - not very fast, but will. And those manufacturers who convince that their products are never stupid, they simply silence that they have stood for kitchen knives in special stands and sheaths. Also regularly, as you steal the blade about the products, the blade is recorded, when you retake it from such a nest.

Home processing is not subject to:

  • knives with a toothed edge obtained as a result of a factory laser sharpening;
  • a tool with a weld carbide or "magnetic" blade.

And since all the other kinds without swelling can not do, it means to find out how to point the knives at home. The choice of method will depend on the material from which the blade is made and on the availability of a suitable tool.

Using Musat

Unusual fixture remotely resembling a file with a comfortable handle. When buying a set of knives usually comes in a set. Musat form can be cylindrical, faceted or flat. The cheapest sharpeners are made of durable steel with notches, which is suitable for most ordinary kitchen knives. Where ceramic Musatians are less common. And the best is considered to be a tool with diamond spraying, as on the sandpaper. It should be chosen if you often use durable professional blades.

The correct sharpening knives on Musato begins with accurate placement of the blade position. The tool must be vertically referred to the table or board, and the blade at the very base is perpendicular to lean closer to the handle. After that, the knife makes arcuate movements, shifting it down and to themselves. Sharpening is performed on both sides.

You can simply hold the knife in your hand and to carry out Musatom on its edge, but here we will have to take into account the direction of notes. For such work, experience is needed, although it is worth it. By the way, this tool is practically useless with a rough casing, so that if you do not have another way to support knives in order, you need to use Musat.

Sillok

Today you can find not only natural grinding stone, but also its artificial analogue. The second, by the way, is manufactured quite large and with large grains of abrasive. For a thinner editing of the blades with back side Bruck often make a small spraying. Natural stone It will cost cheaper, but due to fine grain, it is more suitable for the adjustment of already dotted knives. Very thick and completely stupid blade with it will be difficult to sharpen and long. But it is ideal for sharpening blades of soft steel grades.

Pillow - the easiest and most reliable tool for manual sharpening. But as properly, not everyone knows the knives of BROsk, so we give a detailed instruction:

  • Take a grinding stone in one end or put it on the table, holding the edge.
  • To lean to the surface of the appeal blade at an angle of 20-25 ° and with a slight press to stretch it up on the bar. If this is a kitchen toporist, then the slope is better to increase to 30 °.
  • At the very end of the movement, the angle can be smoothly raised, removing the knife from the bar - so it will be sharper.
  • Repeat the procedure several times without changing the strength of the clutch and the direction of the blade movement, but increasing the speed.
  • Turn the knife and sharpening the second side of the blade.

On the bilateral bar, the sharpening is performed first along the coarse side, and then the knife is "brought" on a thin abrasive. Similarly, you can perform the final shape fixed on wooden Bruke Letnak, only the skin is better to choose fine-grained and moisture-resistant.

Little trick: Before putting a knife on a stone, lubricate the surface of the bar with a special oil and give him a minute of 10 minutes. This will prevent the metal dust sticking and retain the abrasive properties of the Opek.

Sharpeners

The universal device with a comfortable handle has several sockets with the abrasive circles installed. The angle between them is already selected, so it is easy to use such a tool. Just insert the base of the blade into the nest and pull the knife through it. The canvas is sharpening at once from both sides, so the effort will have to be attached twice.

It looks like handberries and the design of household electric sharpeners, but there are also circles and rotate. Work with them goes much faster, however, the result is not always satisfactory. When using electrical cutters, it is not necessary to keep the knife too long in grinding circles - the thick and hopelessly stupid blade will be enough five minutes.

Sharpening on the machine

Since the houses have long appeared not only steel tools, but also their modern analogues, they began to emerge, how to sharpen a knife, if, for example, ceramic. Manufacturers and specialists in one voice advise not to do this at home so as not to spoil the fragile blade. But if it is very necessary, you can break this ban and learn to bring ceramics into working condition yourself.

To work, you will need a grinding machine and a circle with diamond spraying. Ceramics is not afraid of overheating, but to not split it, you need to choose the right abrasive disk. When the machine is running, the blade should be pressed without effort, very easy. Of course, such a sharpening will take a lot of time, but the result you will get excellent.

For steel, it is better to choose a grinding disc with a white electrocorundum, so as not to move the blade. Mechanical sharpening should be performed on medium turnover - about 1500 per minute. Also it will be useless to cool the blade in the water.

Check how well the knife is sharpened, you can on a sheet of paper, rolled up the tube. A sharp blade will cut it smoothly, stupid - tear and leave the teeth. After work, do not forget to rinse the kitchen tool and wipe it dry - so you will remove the smallest particles of the steel and abrasive.

Thin finishes

Before surgical sharpness, of course, you can bring any kitchen knife. To do this, it is necessary to rest before the appearance of small jar of one side of his blade, and then align the edge, treating the second. For a long time, such a sharpening, of course, will not last, but at first the knife will cut almost any products. Bridge blades with various grinding materials that can be found in any house.

The blades of ceramics are well grinding, if you choose a rather rough surface. Turn over the clay bowl upside down - usually there are unlawed areas. Here on them and you need to drive a blade to bring the knife to the perfect state.

For jewelry work on the blade, it will take a piece of genuine leather and polishing paste such as GOI. It drinks the surface of the flap, and then grinds the blade. Before proceeding with fine finishes, all visible jar are removed from the edge of a fine-grained donkey. Polishing is performed in one direction - from the base to the edge with a diagonal slope of the knife.

We figured out how to get a knife at home. But so that this tedious procedure does not have to repeat too often, keep the most important kitchen tool also need to be able to. Do not leave the blade for a long time dirty - an attempt to scream off the sucker food particles will spoil the sharp edge. Also undesirable to keep knives "mound", otherwise they will be tupping about each other. Determine each of them its nest in the kitchen box, and then you will not have to rule the blades for a very long time.

Related Materials


Comrade asked to sharpen the knife, which was used in the kitchen for 3 years for a variety of tasks: cutting of frozen meat and bird bones. 95x18 steel blade did not stand the tests, and several chips appeared on the cutting edge, and the first 50 mm from the tip was initially "underdeveloped." The owner was afraid to make any manipulation on his own, although he had an abrasive bar from a shopping store in the kitchen.

Advantages and disadvantages of "purchased" sharpening machines

SAMI frequent cause Failures When sharpening a knife is difficult to keep it in such a position so that the conversion angle remains permanent. There are plenty of fixtures and machines solving this problem.
The main advantage made in the production of grinding systems - willingness to work, nothing needs to finish.
However, they have disadvantages:
  • Most of the fixtures can only work on fixed corners (Kitchen electric sharpeners, devices like LANSKY).
  • Systems with good functionality, such as APEX EDGE Pro (about $ 300), cost a lot of money. Moreover, clones and fakes are more than originals.
  • Almost all mechanical sharpeners remove a huge amount of metal and overheat the cutting edge. Exceptions, such as Tormek (Tormek T9 costs more than 50 thousand rubles in a minimum configuration. A snap for the machine will have to buy separately and is also expensive.), Stand hellishly.
  • Not all "factory" structures fix the blade is rigid enough.

Homemade sharpener

On the homemade adaptationWith which I use, at least thousands of knives, chisels and other cutting tools, so I do not doubt its effectiveness. The design is extremely simple, and most expensive in it are sharpened stones. In the description I will not give specific sizes, only common ideas.

Stanina

The bed serves iron from the "Young Twist" set. It is quite overall and massive, therefore it does not ride even on the "curves" of the grounds.

Rack

The tripod from the photo fee was an excellent donor. A regular climb mechanism that serves me for adjusting the stone angle relative to the blade plane, works smoothly and is fixed reliably.

Inclined rod

The calibrated rod with a diameter of 10 mm is designed to hold and move the sharpened stone. It is attached to the lifting mechanism through the hinge - the steering tip from the kart. The following details are put on the bar: plastic nut, spring, two clamps with locking screws, Nut behind (so that the rods do not fall out of the hinge). This design allows you to work with stones of different lengths and quickly change them: I never fix the locking screw of the near clamp, and the rapid is held in the spring force.
Klink fixation mechanism
Elements of the mechanism:
  • Bracket. The part is made of duralumin and performs the functions of the clamp.
  • The bronze sleeve with a semicircular groove is clamped motionless in the bracket.
  • The shaft is planted with a gap 0.1 - 0.15 mm, i.e. freely rotates. The spring presses the fixing axis to the sleeve.
  • The sewller is fixed on the shaft stationary.
  • Two pairs of sponges with M8 hammer bolts are freely moved along the grooves in the chaserler. After tightening the nuts, they are rigidly fixed in the prescribed position. The angle between the surfaces of the sponges adjacent to the sheller shelves is about 75 degrees.
The sleeve is made on turning machine, sponges and channel - on the milling, bracket - on the drilling. The remaining details and blanks are found in the garage.



Sharpening

If the used knife is exposed to sharpening and you need to save the value of the supply angle, then the work is performed in the following order.
We clamp the blade in sponges, after adjusting their position in width.
Knives with a polished blade before installing, we put the painted scotch tape in so as not to leave scratches.
Draw a waterproof marker cutting edge. We establish an abrasive bar with the largest grain. We make a few neat movements of a barbell from ourselves. By abrasion of marker traces, we define whether the angle is correctly selected. If the stone clings around the edge, it must be increased, i.e. raise the hinge. After the corner of the angle, the abrasive should shoot marker traces throughout the plane of the cutting edge.
Now you can proceed directly to sharpening. We make reciprocating movements of the barbell and move along the edge of the knife, until the chips, cries and other defects will be completely completely. Make a light pressure only when moving from ourselves. Returning the rod must be frightened. In the last passages weakening the pressure on the bar.


Pull the channel for yourself and turn 180 °. We exactly as long as the flow width on both sides will not be approximately the same.
For visual control, the edges do not need to constantly bend. One of the advantages of the device used is that the knife is attached once, it can be twisted as much as you like, and it will always stop in the right positions.
When will be finished with the second party, the burr will appear on the first. It can not be seen, but it is clearly tugged with my fingers. It is necessary to make sure that the burr was formed along the entire length, otherwise the "stupid" sites will remain and work will have to redo.
Control the burr you need to move the movement of your finger from the footage to the cutting edge, but not along it! Otherwise cuts not to avoid.


The width of the cutting edge along the blade depends on the geometry of the descents. On this knife, the approach of the tip is thicker than in the rest.
Before moving to a smaller abrasive, we remove the sawdust with a sponge or paper towel. Remove the risks from the previous stone on both sides. At the same time, the burck must separate: not to crumble in the form of dust, but to disappear with subtle threads.
Depending on the grain size, the second stone can also be "girder" burr. In my case, it was exactly that. Then go to the following grain.
The result of the work is tested on the newspaper: we make cuts with a broach and control its smoothness. If defects remain, they will be cling.


If there is a desire, you can try to shave your hair on the wrist.


The optimal method of checking is to cut the knife to what it is intended.

Abrasive stones

I use a set of diamond bars on a metal bundle (4 pieces). Coolant water. Some sharpeners are wetting diamonds soap emulsion. Someone at all works "on dry" (see video). I exactly in accordance with the instructions of the manufacturer of stones, which recommends wasting the bar with water and periodically flush the metal sawdust with the brush.
Grain sizes on bars (in microns):
  • 125/100 - formation of cutting edge, change the angle of sharpening;
  • 63/50 - coarse grinding;
  • 20/14 - thin grinding;
  • 7/5 - Polishing.
I started working first stone, and finished the third. The fourth use quite rarely, only at the request of Estettes.
Instead of diamond bars, you can work with artificial stones from an electrocorundum. There is even more a budget option: Stick strips of emery paper of different graining on aluminum or glass blanks. Most importantly - all stones in the kit must be the same thickness.

Knife sharpening video

On the video, huntsman sharpens its working knife (steel Bohler M390) on the adaptation described above. It uses only one stone 63/50 and believes that this is enough. Characteristic movements along the edge - so he removes a burr.
Perhaps I missed something in the description of the process or device, deviated from some canons, I do not pray for Arkansas and Japanese aqueous stones. I propose to discuss these moments in the comments.

Almost any knife can be made sharp for a long time, if you sharpen it in the right way and choose the correct chosen. Today we will tell, how and what you need to sharpen knives to achieve due effect.

This can be done using different tools:

  • grinding stone;
  • sharpening set;
  • electrostank;
  • mechanical machine;
  • musat and others.

Choosing sharpened

Grindstone

This is another name of the usual grinding bar. Surely everyone had to keep him in his hands. With the skillful appeal, he will quickly return the blade initial sharpness. The main characteristic of the instrument is a graininess, in other words, the number of abrasive grains per 1m3.


Council

For a good sharpening knife you need to have two bar: more "rare" will go for sharpening, "thick" to grinding the blade.

Grinding machine (electric)

Perfectly sharpen knives of different purposes: for the kitchen, for tourism, for hunting, etc. Due to the special mechanism, the tool itself determines the desired sharpening angle. Often it is used for screwdrivers and scissors.


Important!!!

Electricalization is able to give the blade of excellent sharpness, which will continue for long goals. She will give new life Even strongly stupid blades.

Grinding machine (mechanical)

This device is much easier to use than a sharpening stone. The blade is fixed in a special attachment, which will allow the stable angle of sharpening during the sharpening process.


Important!!!

On the sharpening quality, the angle of inclination of the knife is most affected, the speed of work is the strength and skill of your hands.

Grind set

Sharpening technology with a sharpening set does not have something difficult for the wizard. The system is designed specifically, the coaching angle is controlled, the blade as a result becomes sharp, like a razor. The set consists of several separate compartments, in each of them the knife is attached at a specific angle.


Important!!!

The standard set includes grinding stones with multi-colored handles, (a separate color speaks about some stone grain), guides, and oil.

Musat

This device performs periodic editing of the cutting part of the knife. Thanks to him, it will be possible to control the sharpness of the edge without sharpening. Externally, Musat looks like a file.


Important!!!

Musat is appropriate only for regularly used knives. If necessary, just took the knife and updated its cutting part. In the case of a blocked knife, there is no benefit from Musat.

The process of correct sharpening by Bru

  • first, plunge the grinding stone into soap water and put aside. 20 minutes will be enough. This is done with the goal so that later the metal removed is not clogged into the pores;
  • at the expiration of time with smooth movements, start to drive a wet bar on both sides of the cutting edge;
  • first, work the coarse-grained surface of the bar until the blade is covered with burstles, then grab the surface with small "grains";
  • it is necessary to sharpen in the direction "from ourselves", apply the average force, the cutting edge should be guided forward;

How to sharpen a knife

Council

Try to spend the blade on the bar very carefully, without changing the angle during the entire process.

Right sharpening angle

Bolding the knife at home sharpening angle has to be determined independently. You will help in this ordinary scissors. Take them in your hands and insert the edge of the blade between the two blades. Gently, so as not to jump the blade, move the handles to each other, glancing at the same time on the lamp. As soon as the gap disappears, it is necessary to remove the knife and measure the formed angle of the transporter.


Important!!!

The sharpening angle depends on several factors: the quality and hardness of the blade, the purpose of the knife.

  • 10-17% - as a result of such sharpening, it turns out very sharp and delicate edge. As a rule, such angle of sharpening is characterized by razors and scalpels;
  • 20-25% - the most suitable for kitchen knives, which makes it the most common. Durable and well cutting edge copes well with its task;

Sharpening knife to razor sharpness (under the microscope)
  • 25-30% - so sharpen knives for extreme Conditions Applications, such knives should work for a long time without "freelance" sharpening. These are hunting and tourist knives;
  • 30-40% - for knives that cut cardboard, hoses, carpets, for other cutting and hard work.

About knife sharpening

Important!!!

The grinding of the knife helps to remove the sowers formed as a result of sharpening of the bar of large grain. The subsequent effects of small grain due to the circular movements of the bar, will not give the knife to fasten quickly.

Output:

To return the knife with the desired sharpness, you need to point it periodically. To do this, there are different methods and different tools about which we talked today. Now you know how to implement this "master" case at home. Good luck and only sharp knives in your home!


How to get a knife on the stone correctly. Manual for newbies

How easy and just sharpen the knife on the sandpaper

The tool must be in working condition. In the case of a knife the main characteristic The working state will be its sharpness. We will tell how to properly put the knife, which tools will need and give a number of useful facilities. "Knife sharpening. Basics "- Basic article for those who are just starting to get acquainted with this art.

How is the blade stupid?

We acquire a sharp knife in the store, but over time he is inevitably stupid, if, of course, we work them. Why does this happen, because the tool is made of good steel and sharpened at the factory? The process proceeds at several levels:

  • Microscopic, when the particles began to be ground from the cutting edge in the process of friction about the material, making the edge less acute. This is not visible, but you can feel how increasingly pressed for cutting is required.
  • Macroscopic, when the edge is running on solid inclusions, such as grain, stone or metal particles. They are practically in any material. The edge or moves the obstacle, or hesitates itself, while drinking.
  • With the misuse of the blade, its blade can be spoiled to be unrecognizable. This refers to turning off screws, digging soil, etc.

As a result, the working part of the blade is deformed, the edge loses sharpness and the tool is becoming less suitable for work. Gradually, hardened steel crumble, and softer and plastic begin to wrap.


Fig. one. Bunction process and sharpening knife: 1. When working a knife, the cutting edge shape varies randomly. 2. In the process of sharpening, we return the specified form of the cutting edge or change it. 3. And give smoothness, finally removing the burr.

To return the knife to the working condition, it is necessary to eliminate the deformation and restore right shape Blade.

What exactly knives?

When the knife sharpening, we use a similar process - friction, but this time we control it. With uncontrolled deformation, the knife was stuffed, with controlled - it turns, that's all the difference.

It is possible to sharpen the steel wedge with any abrasive tool, and at the beginning it was fragments of stones and pebbles. We are modern people, so we will use a specially intended grinding bar.

If you use a cheap stone for sharpening good steel, be prepared that it will quickly work out and will lose a flat shape. Therefore, it is better to immediately buy a good grinding tool from ceramics or sample with.

For work, there are enough three types of abrasive:

  1. Rough - about 350 units / cm² or diamond with marking. Need to eliminate strong deformation and is rarely applied.
  2. Small - about 650 units / cm² or diamond with labeling. Need for normal main sharpening a knife that fastened in reasonable limits.
  3. Ultrafine is about 1150 units. / Cm² or diamond with marking. It is useful for grinding and final finishing, the elimination of sowing.

For permanent work, the bars are required for the last two types, for bringing a knife to a state at which a rough stone is needed is blasphemy. However, an experienced master It has all three types.

For convenience, such moments are important:

  • Brawn should be 1.5 - 2 times longer than blade.
  • The width must be 2.5 - 5 cm.
  • The height should be such that the fingers do not touch the table.
  • The bar must stand firmly and not slide on the table.

For example, for sharpening a knife on small bars can make such a device.

The listed moments are very important to achieve proper sharpening, especially at the study stage. Then, when you "do", you will handle the task and in less comfortable conditions, but at first, the convenience plays an important role.

How to put a knife?

We approached the most important thing. Sharpening the knife is that we put it with a grinding stone blade at a certain angle and spend on it with the entire cutting edge from the spot to the tip. Proper sharpening involves compliance with three conditions:

  1. The angle of inclination of the blade plane to the surface of the grinder remains strictly unchanged (Figure 2).
  2. The line of the edge in the place of contact with Bru must be perpendicular to the direction of movement (Figure 3).
  3. The pressure must be moderate and uniform, it is not necessary to "stroke" chuckled or remove chips from it.

So, we put the blade on the stone perpendicular to his long side, set the angle of 15-20˚, and begin to keep the blade on the stone, gradually shifting it from the spot to the tip. On the rotation of the edge closer to its end, the handle should be slightly lifting over the plane of the stone and donate back, as if behind the tip. This will preserve the same angle of inclination and perpendicularity of the movement.


When the passage along the entire edge is complete, it is necessary to repeat it in the reverse order, as when turning back. So it will be easier to keep the right corner and in general work will go faster. We carry out these movements until the "sowing" does not begin on the opposite side of the edge.


"Bescase" can be seen or feel the skin of the finger, spending it perpendicular to the edge. When the edge begins to scratch throughout its length, sharpening one side should be stopped and proceeding with the processing of the opposite side.

The knife turn over and start working on another side. Gradually comes the moment when, as it was last time, "sowing" will appear. So, the second side is ready. More precisely, almost ready.

Next, we take a thinner abrasive and begin the process from the beginning. Similar to the past stage we achieve the appearance of "bursaging" first with one, then on the other side of the cutting edge. At this stage it will be much smaller and thinner.

Finally, the blade is communicated on the most small abrasive. Here it is necessary to neatly, as if stroking to polish the cutting faces and remove even the smallest "burstles".


The position of the blade relative to the sharpening bar: When you keep correctly (pos. 1), the blade "drags" on the bar of the plane, and when it is wrong, then the blade "plows" on the bar of its cutting edge (pos. 3) or edge between the blade and the main descent of the blade (pos. 2).

On video: One of the options sharpening a kitchen knife on a Japanese water stone.

To use your favorite knife as long and effectively, follow these principles:

  • Do not work a blunt tool, it's dangerous! Increased pressing leads to the fact that the blade breaks down and wounds his hands.
  • Do not allow strong deformation, in other words, do not wait until the knife is completely fastened. Slightly stupid knife is easy and pleasant, while running requires skill and time.
  • Do not sharpen knives on the electrical circle. With this speed of friction, the blade overheats and loses hardening.
  • Use the destination tool, and it will last you longer.

Summarize. Sharpening knife requires execution simple action In the correct sequence. If you gain patience, do not rush and do everything as it is written here, you will definitely achieve success.

P.S. Question:Look at the main photo to the article. What do you think people presented on it do? Write in the comments. The first one who is correct and will answer the question most detailed will receive a 10% discount on diamond bars in them.