: Production Features
Want to create a unique knife? Do you need a cutter for a tree or a sharp blade for hunting? Make a good product more than real. The main thing. Have a skill working with metal and know what you want.
First prepare all the necessary details and tools, fold them in one place. Knife from Mehpila do it yourself. Fulding knife with your own hands. How to drill fur saw. Decide which material you will use exactly. If you need a sharp and durable product - make a knife from the saw.
Take the workpiece. The wood saw blade or metal is best suited for these purposes. As a material for the manufacture of handles for the blade, use a tree (any, according to your desire), textolite, plexiglass.
To get started and make a knife from saws For metal, you will need:
We'll figure it out how to make a knife from a saw. Prepare a metal cloth for the manufacture of a blade. Draw on it the workpiece of the future tool using the marker for these purposes.
Remember that the knife is considered to be cold weapons if the blade length exceeds 2/3 of the total length of the product. If you incorrectly construct a knife from saws And it will be regarded as cold weapons - wait for punishment.
Outside the contour of the future product, take on the shape of the form. It is important to draw the form so that the cutting part of the future product is located in the area of \u200b\u200bthe saws. Due to the wiring of the saw, if you do volatile in this place, you will have to perform additional work on the rapidness.
Do not start to complete the knife without learning. Take an ordinary piece of metal and try to process it. To spoil the piece of iron is not so scary how to lose a good workpiece. You should not only adjust the power of pressure at the sharpening, but also monitor the temperature so as not to steal iron. Heat Not only spoils the type of metal. Even if it does not change externally, its structure can seriously suffer: the metal will be much softer and more fragile. The knife from the circular saw, made of poor-quality metal, will have to be accusable more often.
To check if iron is not beginning to overheat, drop a couple of water drops to the workpiece. If she immediately evaporates, rather cool the workpiece for the future blade. To avoid possible troubles related to the overheating of the metal, set the container with water and periodically cool the future knife from the saw.
How to do knife From the disk circular saw and sheath to it.
How to do knife of saws. Manufacture knife from Soviet steel. The knife from the circular saw made from making a knife from the saw with their own hands. Unbelievable knife simplest survival
Forming the basis of the future knife, proceed to the most important and complex stage of work - the removal of descents. Descent is a surface on a knife, smoothly narrowing towards the blade. The purpose of the knife directly defines the angle and width of the descents. So choose the average if you want to get a universal knife from saws.
Before you start working on the machine, draw the alleged descents on the metal canvase using the marker for this. Stop carefully, slowly, not to spoil the future knife. Recommended as in the previous step, practice on the spare part. The descents should be symmetric and lie under the same angle on both sides. At the same time, the blade should be understood: leave an indent of about 0.25 mm.
To hone the blade, use sandpaper. For such purposes, the stack of 8-10 rigidity numbers is best suited. It is better to sharpen a knife from a saw from a saw on a wooden bar. To prepare an improvised sharpener, take a bar and stick to it sandpaper.
Using a major sandpaper, you will give the blade the necessary sharpness, and taking smaller, fluttering the metal blade completely.
At the final processing stage, polish the blade. The same wooden barber Cover the felt or skin, print the paste of the goy and polish until the desired effect is achieved.
The easiest way to glue the handle from two cut and prepared pieces of wood or plexiglass. Make it is much easier than fixing the knife on the tail. How to make a knife from a saw with your own hands? Features of the manufacture of tourist knives from the circular saw disk and saw saw. Naturally, you can choose an imperious option and climb a handle with a tape, but why so much try to ultimately spoil the aesthetic kind of knife?
And now comes the most responsible stage of work. So it will have to drill in the knife shank, can easily burst. Therefore, be alert and careful.
Steel. Solid, but at the same time fragile material. With a uniform distribution of pressure, when the saw is in operation, it is almost impossible to break it. But with point drilling, the pressure increases, and the metal can easily split. Therefore, drove a hole better with small speeds of the machine and do not forget to pour oil into place of drilling. Circular table made of hand circular saws with their own hands. In this case, the screwdriver. perfect tool To fulfill the goal, since it is less, the possibility of breakdown the part is not so high.
After completing the previous step and doing the holes in the handle, the same drill in the halves of the handle. Make a copper or aluminum rivet. For insurance, you can cross the area where the rivet will be, glue, but better if you have epoxy resin.
Masters say that the hole can be done and without using drilling tools. The blade together with the shank is covered with a layer of varnish. Where there should be a hole, you need to clean the surface from varnish. It should be placed a knife from a tree saw into a solution of electrolyte and omitted into a container with a harvesting wire with a negative charge, and a positive connection to a power source, which can be used as a conventional battery.
As a result of this impact, the hole in the metal is, however, it will not be perfectly round, but it will not work out to damage the blade in this way.
If for some reason, you can't make a knife from the saw on the metal, no required material. Replace it. For the manufacture of the blade, the automobile spring is fit, the metal of which is softer than the saw. To process such a workpiece, it is not necessary to use sharpened, but you will need a saw for metal to cut the shape of the blade. Since the metal is easier to handle, the edges of the workpiece can be adjusted with a file. Working on the manufacture of a knife in this way will have longer, because each stage of processing includes manual operation.
POST Views: 1
Highly useful project from detailed video The process of manufacturing a knife from the canvas of old circular disks. Here are all stages of manufacture including hardening and sharpening. I especially liked Horn from a regular hair dryer. Surprising the persistence of the author - the entire manufacturing process was performed without the use of electrical instruments. Well, he had such a fantasy. On the other hand, a good experience. With a certain proportion of perseverance, such a knife can be made practically "on the knee."
My buddy and comrade YouTuber wanted to make a joint video. We bounced around some kind of idea and eventually decided to shoot himself in the manufacture of knives. The snag was that I would like to do it manually (with the exception of drill and oven) and it would have done it using power tools. We both started with the same blade, the same steel, but the rest of the aesthetic design was left for us. I also wanted to do this because I read many times all you need to make a knife several files and drill or something like that. I was wondering how much time I need to make a knife with my hands and to see if I could do it without cheating and using my tools. So I realized that it was a great opportunity to try it. It was a fun to build, which took much more time than I expected, and gave me a whole new appreciation for people who make knives completely manually. In general, I am very pleased with how the knife turned out and I hope that it helps someone there that wants to give him to try.
I tried to increase the size of the knife using the design that are used for a saw, as far as possible. I made a paper template using a card that is just a heavier paper weight, so I could easily trace the paper template on a saw blade. I used a thin marker tip, although this is a trifle in my opinion it is very important. The thin tip of the marker leaves thin lines to cut or too file unlike the ordinary marker tip. The cut line can become ambiguous if it is too wide, which can affect the general shape and lead to violations in the form and more problems, down the road.
From the saw blade clamping on the desktop, I started with cutting with rough blade, using straight line segments. If you have never enjoyed hacksaw, first kill the blade correctly, the direction of the teeth should be directed forward or far from your body. Cuts on the breaks so make sure to correctly install the blade.
In order to cut the curved parts of the handle, I made several perpendicular cuts of the relief along the entire length of the curved part of the handle. Then with the help of a hacksaw under a small angle, I would cut out of each small plot. Reducing the discharge make it easier to follow the curve as you cut.
I needed to clarify the shape of the blade, so I attached a piece of scrap 2x4 to my desktop and squeezed the blade in 2x4. This allowed me to work forms from my file, and the blade was pleasant and safely. I also used the file to evaluate what areas additional work is required. The design of the spine was slightly tilted, and I could use a flat part of the file to check the progress on the curve. If the spine has a flat spot will be seen.
I used several files to get a form or as close as possible to the line. At this moment, he begins to look more like knife and disadvantages harder to detect an eye. If I noticed that the zone needs work, I would like to use the marker to draw a figure, and then the file from this new line. He served as a guide, so I am not for the right and ruin design. The last picture of the blade after was filed and polished the form. I have not a single photo to sand me with a blade, this is the last step to the formation that removes any signs file. I would start with 150 grit and work my way to 220.
Initially, I planned to plunge with a good high bevel, but my modest skills were not before the problem. Saws are quite a thin material, and I don't think I can push the blade to reach the line decisive step and the slope I was after. More on this topic later. At this point, I also measured the placement of the contact center and struck, and then drilled holes with my drill.
Using the marker, I marked the entire length of the blade. Then, using the drill with the same thickness, as the blade I scored a line in the center of the blade. The last picture shows, it is not visible on the line well in the picture, but it is. This line will come in handy when filming a slope blade, it will keep me from crooked and one-sided edge.
I used the file with a bastard to determine the bevel, exactly then I realized that I did not eat skills to make a beautiful line to immerse manually. Therefore, I chose a smoother corner and filed a working blade my way from the edge to the spine. I'm new to this and inexperienced, so I chose a more conservative path from the point of view of removal. Once I was happy with the Square, I spent the entire blade to 220 grit.
Here is the blade after all molding, lying and grinding is ready for heat treatment.
Before I leave, I would like to say that while you can heat the blade with an open wood fireplace personally, I do not recommend it. This is one of those cases that I really do not feel in the safety of the operation. And I was not sure to take the heat so I ultimately with my mini-forge (here is my Instructable about how I did my mini forge http://www.instructables.com/id/how-t Make-a-mini-forge /) in heat instead of treating the blade. If you do not have a mini kuznice you can actually send your blades from their heat treatment. There are several companies that offer this service for a fee, of course. I said, I will explain my customization. I built a fire. Then, using a hairdryer with a pipe attached to it to act like blacksmith fur, I turn on the hairdryer and there are cool coals. It does not take much time. I put the blade into the fire and warm up until it was magnetic, and then quenched it into the peanut butter container. The last peak indicates that the blade looks like after quenching. Although it is possible to heat treatment on the open flame, it is not recommended.
Now it is time to quench the blade, but at first I spent all the scales from the thoughts. Then in my oven, I put a temperature of up to 375 degrees Fahrenheit (in my oven, setting it up to 375 degrees Fahrenheit will reach 400 degrees Fahrenheit Mark I propose to check your oven to see which temperature to install so that it reached 400 Fahrenheit degrees) and placed the blade in the oven for 1 hour. At the end of 1 hour I turned off the oven and let the blade spinning inside the oven closed door until it was cool enough to handle. You can familiarize yourself with Blonde-Ish or Light Bronze-Ish color that the blade is obtained after quenching. After charging, I grind the blade to clean it using 220 grit and work up to 400 grit. For the last time rice I use wooden bar with 400 grain sandpaper, wrapped around it and sanding from the handle to the tip of the blade only in one direction. It leaves the uniform sanding lines on the blade.
Using the blade as a template, I trace the shape handle on the tree. This piece of nut was donated to me one of my neighbors was cut off a piece, which he is a molar down. Here again using my 2x4 piece of scrap and clamps I saw two 1/4 thick pieces. In my excitement, I rushed to cut wood if I took some time to think about my operation I could do it easily and possibly with the best results. My first mistake was cut off the spent material. I could use this material for clamping part down, and then cut two handles. Here again my inexperience, in this case manual tools, raises his ugly head. I managed to make two useful parts of the handle, but I am sure that I worked much harder than smarter to make them.
In order for the handles to attach to the blade with a dense fit, I was convinced of the sand on one side of each handle as flat as possible smooth surface and sandpaper. It will guarantee that there are no gaps after sticking. At that moment I decided that the handle form would and painted the reference line on the blade to make sure I liked appearance. Then I traced the blade of the handle again into the forest. Using the jigsaw I am a draft on one handle, and then take a handle and track it on the other handle. This will ensure that they are about the same shape that is useful when sticking on the handles. The last peak is a test suitable to make sure they cover all Tan.
Time for additional grinding and clarification of the form. It is important at this moment to modify the form to support the section or, or rather, the top of the handle, because as soon as it is glued to the knife, it will not be easily accessible. And any further work At this plot after gluing can lead to the appearance of scratches on the blade. Therefore, I sped up to 800 sandpaper and made sure that the special partition was completed in terms of grinding and processing.
When drilling holes for pins through the forest, I was convinced after the first well was drilled that I used the drill of the same diameter as a hole, index this hole. In other words, it keeps the blade from moving or confused when drilling another hole. I used the same indexing process for the opposite side to make sure that all holes will be lined with inserting pins.
I used 3/16 inches stainless steel pins, which I cut out of stainless steel rod. Before lumbering the blade mask and clean everything with acetone or alcohol to remove any dirt, dust or oil.
After everything dried from cleaning. I confused epoxy resin and slaathered on a generous amount on the handles and pins. Then I looked all together, and let it cure for 24 hours.
As soon as the resin cured me cut the pins with a hacksaw. Then, with the help of the board, the shape and contour of the handle began.
The first cutting tools made by man were made of stone. The ancestors of modern knives were very fragile and demanded a lot of time and labor for manufacture. Metal blade is deprived of these major flaws. Steel is processed relatively easily and has good physical characteristics.
Knife made with your own hands is the pride of the owner. For independent manufacture They are selected those characteristics that are necessary. First of all, this is a form of blades and handles. The highest quality blades, such as boulat or from damask steel, are made by forging. The material of the blade has the necessary solidity and carbon content.
But the forging requires a certain tool and skills. What should I do if you want to make your own unique blade, but at hand only the minimum set of tools? In this case, you should pay attention to the disk saw as a blank for the blade. The metal from which the blade of the disk saw is made well gives to hardening and has the necessary elasticity, so the saw will be the optimal blank for the manufacture of a knife with their own hands. The homemade knife from the disk saw is well holding sharpening, it does not break and can safely make a competition of industrial knives.
First of all, you need to create a layout of the future knife from the saw. At this stage of work, you can decide on the form of the blade of the future blade and the shape of the handle. The layout is best made from dense cardboard or thin plywood. You can use dense plastic. Hard leather will allow you to understand how the knife from the disk saw will lie in your hand and how convenient it will be used.
When making a layout, it is important to adhere to the following rules:
When making a layout, it should also be remembered that the knife can be classified as cold weapons. It all depends on the shape and size. Production and storage of cold weapons criminal offense. Therefore, in order not to fall under the article by the Criminal Code, it is necessary to create a layout that meets the following rules:
After the layout that satisfies the letter of the law and personal preferences is drawn, you can switch to the sandbox to the saw disk. The mileton is applied to the saw disk and will be worked out by a marker. It is best to use a thin marker. The thin line will make it possible to more accurately cut the workpiece and avoid unnecessary processing of the workpiece with a file.
Fill the workpiece faster than a grinder with a thin cutting disc on metal. In case there is no possibility of using a grinder, then you can use the handheld with metal. It is important to correctly install the pink into the hacksaw. Pilking teeth should be directed forward and the knife should cut when "from ourselves".
At first, the approximate shape of the knife is cut down with the help of straight cuts. Then cut the bends. They are easiest to drink several oblique cuts converging at one point. It is important to leave the allowance of 2-3 millimeters to the drew circuit. This is due to the fact that when using the grinder, the metal on the scene is overheated. Stripping 2-3 mm using a file and emery paper, you can remove the superheated edge of the metal.
Rough blank to the final form is brought with a file or emery. In order to avoid overheating of the future knife from the saw, when processing its emery, it is necessary to periodically omit in the tank with water. This will cool the workpiece. When processing the workpiece using a file, additional cooling is not required. Most optimally will approximately handle the workpiece on the sandpaper, and then spend a thin refined with a file.
During the final processing, special attention should be paid to the smoothness of bends. It is important to ensure that the bend is smooth, without depression or bulges. Miniature depressions are easy to check with a file. To do this, using the marker, the test end end is painted. Next, carry a file with a light pressure along the workpiece throughout the bending. In those places where the trace of the marker remains, there are depressions.
Processing continues until no depression remains.
Further, the billet is cleaned of sizes and polished using sandpaper. You can start with 60 grain and it is enough to finish on 320. The workpiece will still be subject to heat treatment, so the pure grinding of the blade will be later.
The handle on the shank can be fixed with ripples or with glue. The most reliable version of the attachment of the handle lies in the use of ripples. To install them, it is necessary to do in the shank hole. The holes are placed on the shank so that they are in the middle of the future handle. In order for the drill to do not slip at the initial stage of drilling - the holes are dragged.
Due to the fact that the disk saw was made of doped tool steel, it will be not so easy to drill it. Ordinary rods for metal here will not live for a long time.
You should drill cobalt rolling Or a drill for ceramics having a winning tip.
In the process of drilling, it is important to add oil into the drilling zone and not to give the drill overheat.
The drilling of the tempered steel is quite difficult task. Therefore, you can make holes in the shank with an electrochemical way. To do this, the wire is attached to the workpiece, then the shank is completely covered. bituminous mastic or plasticine. In the places of future holes, the protective layer is scratched to a naked metal. Further, a saturated solution of the cook salt is prepared, in which the shank of the blade with a wire and an unnecessary metal plate is also with a wire. Both wires are connected to the battery or automotive charger. The future knife from the disk saw is served "plus", on the plate "minus". The etching process is accompanied by gas release. After 30-50 minutes, the holes will be ready.
Before proceeding with the formation of the cutting edge, you need to hold preparatory work. It lies in applying markings on the edge of the workpiece. The markup is located exactly in the center and serves as a reference to the manufacture of symmetric descent.
For this, the marker is painted the edge, which will be cutting and using the drill, equal to the thickness of the workpiece, the markup is scratched. The drill has a conical sharpening. Therefore, if you position the drill and workpiece on the same plane, the tip of the drill will be exactly in the middle.
Then, using a file with a large notch, you can proceed to the formation of the cutting edge. In the absence of proper skill to create a smooth edge, you can use simple device. It consists of a base, angle and guide with a platform for sandpaper. The sandpaper 180 sandpaper is pasted on the platform with the guide. In the corner must be drilled in advance several holes vertically one over the other. The knife plaffing is fixed on the base and the guide is inserted into the hole at that height so that the angle between the base plane and the emery paper platform was the same that was chosen to form the descents. Universal is an angle from 22 to 30 degrees.
Having made a smooth descent before the middle of the thickness of the workpiece, the knife turns over, then do the same descent on back side. Using such a simple device, you can easily form a smooth blade.
Thus, it turns out a finished blade at a given sharpening angle. But at this stage, the blade is ready only conditionally. It does not have the desired hardening in order to confidently hold sharpening. And it has not passed the release procedure to reduce fragility. In fact, it is a semi-finished knife from a saw, which can already be used, but it is better to do a few more steps.
Thermal processing will allow the knife to give the knife the necessary hardness, it will not be fascinated during operation.
To quench the knife from the saw, it is necessary to heat up to a temperature of 750-920 degrees. If you do not gain such a temperature, then the steel will not be tempered, and if he is heated too much, then the blade will be unnecessarily fragile.
At home, it is not possible to determine the exact temperature. However, there is a way out. To control the temperature, a simple magnet will fit. As soon as the blank for the blade will cease to magazine - it is heated to the desired temperature.
After the temperature of the workpiece reached the desired limits, it must be kept in such a state about 1-1.5 minutes per 1 mm thickness. When homemade knife From saw, time for hardening is 3-5 minutes. This will be enough. Next, the blank is lowered in a pre-heated to 50 degrees vegetable or machine oil. This procedure should be done carefully. Couples of oil can flash from the split billet, so you need to have a fire extinguisher at hand.
A little bit about the mountain for quenching. If the industrial equipment is not possible, then the mountain can be made with your own hands. To do this, it is necessary to divide the fire of such sizes so that it is possible to evenly warm the workpiece. Further, how firewood will fight and coals will appear, self-made knife are placed on them. A household hairdryer or pump for pumping mattresses can be used as blacksmithing fur.
After hardening the blade you need to let go. This procedure is produced in order to reduce the brittleness, as well as to give the knife from the saw of high elasticity. For vacation, the blade is cleaned by sandpaper from the scale, resulting in the hardening process, and placed in a conventional oven, heated to 190 degrees. There the blade is withstanding for an hour, then the heated oven is turned off.
The knife must smoothly cool to room temperature.
After this procedure, the workpiece has the necessary hardness and elasticity.
To complete work with a knife, it is necessary to make a handle. There may be various variations Materials used as handles. The most popular material is a tree. The wooden handle is impregnated with linseed oil to prevent the harmful effect on her moisture.
It is selected smooth plank from the tree of such rocks. The thickness of the plank should be no less than half astimeter for convenience. Thick plate can be cut along. Using a knife harvest as a milestone, markup is applied on the plate, including the holes for rice. For a good fit of the future handle to the shank, it is necessary to remove the fit plane using the sandpaper.
The upper part of the handle is prepared in advance due to the reason that after gluing the handle to the shank, the upper part is hampered. Also during the processing, you can scratch the blade, which is extremely undesirable. On the markup caused during the preparation process, the holes under rice are drilled. They are inserted into the rod of a suitable diameter. It allows you to hardly connect both parts of the workpiece and will not let them move in the processing process.
The formation occurs using files and emery paper. At this stage, it is important to remember about the permissible dimensions of the limiter, the subfold recess.
The final processing is carried out using emery paper with graininess 800. Before gluing all the details must be carefully deflected. This can be done with acetone or solvent. After drying the degreaser, you can apply glue or epoxy resin.
The adhesive mount of the handle to the shank is not reliable. In order to avoid breakage of the handle, wooden plates must be copped with clans. Cloppings are made of metal, which is not subject to corrosion. It can be non-ferrous metal alloys or stainless steel. Also as clans, you can use a copper or brass tube.
From the rod of the appropriate length, the workpiece of the future clap is scorn. It should be 2-3 millimeters longer than the thickness of the handle. Climbing a closet in the vice, with the help of a hammer we are fragrant one end. Must happen to the fungus at one end of the rod. Next, the coolness, pre-lubricated with epoxy glue, is inserted into the holes in the handle and is also fragmented on the other side of the handle. For the splitting of a clap made of the tube, it will be best to use the ball from the bearing.
After the glue dries, proceed to handling the handle. First, with the help of the leg, the protruding parts of the riveting are staged. Then the coarse rashpille billet makes the form. First form a knife handle profile. Stop wood until the shank metal will appear. Then sharp angles and give a handle form that lies well in hand.
Finishing grinding is performed using sandpaper. Gradually increasing graininess It is necessary to remove all rough risks from the paper of larger grain. It is enough to complete the grinding process of the knife handle with paper 600 grain. The last stage in the manufacture of the handle will be impregnated.
There are several ways of impregnating handles for better saving. It is impregnated with oils, impregnation with wax or varnish coating.
Each methods have its advantages and disadvantages. For example, the wax must be pre-melt it, and the heating adhesively affects the strength of the glue to which the handle is glued. Oils must be updated periodically. And varnish wears only the function of surface protection.
The final line in the manufacture of a knife from the disk saw will be its finish sharpening. To do this, it is best to use grinding lump made of wooden plank. On the smooth plate paste sandpaper with a graininess of 1000, 1500 and 2000 for one grain to each side. Also, a piece of leather is glued to the skid for sharpening editing. A little learning, as well as taking the skill, you can put the knife so that it will cut the paper on the weight and shave the hair.
Here so, having a minimum of tool and skill, but possessing necessary knowledge, You can make an excellent knife from the disk saw. The characteristics of the homemade knife from the disk saw are often higher than the store analogues in the budget segment. On the saw disk, after the manufacture of one knife, there is still a place left? You should make another knife!
