Build soldering station on Hakko T12
The article briefly describes the prerequisites for the selection of the soldering station in the Hakko T12 stals, followed comparative analysis Several versions available on the market, and also consider some features of the build of the soldering station and its final setup.
Any beginning to learn to solder, the first question is the question of choosing a soldering iron. Many are starting with rear solders of fixed power available in the nearest host. Of course, some simple work, type of wire soldering can be made even a Soviet soldering iron with a copper sting, especially if there is a skill. However, anyone who tried to solder something more technological, problems are becoming obvious: if the soldering iron is too weak (40W and less) - some details, for example, the conclusions are connected with an earthen polygon, it is very inconvenient to fall out, and if the powerful (50W and more ) - It overheats very quickly and instead of soldering there is a ritual burning tracks. Based on the foregoing, even if you just learn to solder, it is still preferably to buy a soldering iron with the ability to adjust the temperature. However, most often the soldering iron with simple regulators built into the handle are products of extremely low quality, therefore, if you wondered the choice of a normal soldering iron, most likely it is most likely to look towards soldering stations.
Most often the next question is, what kind of soldering station to choose. There may be variations, since professionals are mainly working with sufficiently bulky stations combined with a soldering hair dryer, such as Pace, ERSA or, at worst Lukey. I am at home on a hair dryer, but at the same time you want to have a reliable, powerful and compact station with the possibility of adjustment. As workplace Not rubber, the station should be really small, so many stations disappear on dimensions. Plus, naturally, you always want to meet in a reasonable budget. And here our Chinese friends come to the scene, with their stations designed to work with the Japanese company Hakko firm. Original soldering stations from this brand are some inadequate money, but the Chinese crafts under these staging, oddly enough, have sufficiently high quality, at a very pleasant price.
So why did you get from Hakko? The main visor is a ceramic heater combined with a temperature sensor. Actually, for the finished soldering station, it remains only to "add" a PID controller and sufficient power, which allows you to achieve rapid heating and high-quality maintenance of a given temperature. Well, wrap it all in a comfortable case. Actually, in soldering stations-designerx, which can be in abundance to find on Aliexpress at the request of the type "DIY HAKKO T12", All this is implemented, and in the kit the Chinese usually put one or two in Hakko sting (there is an opinion that it is mostly copies, however, even from copies quality at the level).
At the beginning of 2018, the search for Ali most often come across offers from "Firms" Quicko, Suhan and Ksger. And in the descriptions, they sometimes even refer to each other, so it's quite obvious that this is the essence of the same thing, so then I, if possible, I will pass the specific names of the "manufacturer", referring only to the versions of specific stations, because there is a fluent analysis of photos It suggests that if the versions coincide, then the circuitry is approximately the same.
In fact, the variations in general are not so much, as it may seem at first glance. I will describe the basic significant differences:
Approximate Soldering Power Table, depending on the power supply voltage:
noteFor some versions it is indicated that when using a power supply above 19V, it is desirable to disappear a resistor 100 Ohm, signed by something like "20-30V R-NC". This resistor is in charge of a more powerful 330 ohm resistor and together they form one resistor 77 ohms included in front of the 78m05 chip. Disappearing 100 ohms, we will leave one resistor at 330. This is done to reduce the voltage drop on this regulator with a large input voltage - obvious to increasing its reliability and durability. On the other hand, raising the resistance to 330, we also limit the maximum current over the + 5V line. At the same time, given that 78m05 itself may well digest even 30V at the entrance, I would not fall out 100 ohms completely, and would replace this resistor on something in the range of 200-500 ohms (the higher the voltage, the more denomination). Or you can not touch this resistor at all and leave as it is.
So, we decided with a general package, now we will look more closely consider the fees themselves of various versions.
The circuitry in all boards is quite similar, small nuances may vary. I found a scheme in the network, drawn by the user Wwest with iXBT.com for the version F.. In principle, it is quite enough to understand the work of the station.
MINI STC T12 Soldering Station Scheme Ver.f
Appearance MINI STC T12 VER.E
Appearance MINI STC T12 VER.F
Total, as an intermediate output, you can conclude the following: If you have the opportunity to replace the electrolyte on the polymer, then better to take the version E.. If you do not care, it is better to buy more capacious ceramics and take the version F.. And if you don't want to change anything at all, then the question is reduced to the fact that the electrolyte will be faster, or the controller with unstable food. Considering that the version F. The total manufacturability is higher, perhaps I would recommend it.
Less often meet two more boards - from Ksger and Diymore, and it shows it that the board tracing is additionally worked out.
Appearance DIYMORE MINI STC T12 (version unknown)
Appearance KSGER MINI STC T12 LED (Unknown version)
In the version from Diymore there is a tantalum and the usual AOD409 in the DPAK case, so despite the fact that it is less compoticated visually, it is clearly preferable when choosing. Is that you are not ready to repaid these elements yourself.
TOTAL: If you do not want to buy something without any difference, I would not want to turn anything after purchase, I would advise you to search the version like a photo of the board from Diymore, or if looking for laziness, take the version F. and change capacitors as described above.
Assembling the handle of the soldering iron. Contacts of the connector on the board and in the handle can have different marking. It is hardly the problem, since there are only five wires there:
If the contacts are not signed on your handle, it is enough to know that on the stare itself there are only three contacts: Plus (the closest to the end on the stare), then there is a minus and the output of the thermal sensor. For clarity, the scheme with Ali.
The Chinese sometimes sign the output of the thermocouple as the land, and in the controller itself it is connected to the ground - as far as I understand it is not entirely correct, although it's still not to understand me, and I still have no grounding.
In some versions in the handle, in addition to the vibrator, you need to still get a capacitor. I do not know for sure, but the congregation can be between a plus and a minus heater - to noise less in the RF band. It can also be a congregation between the thermal sensor and the earth - again in order for the thermal sensor readings to be smoother and less incomplete. I do not know how appropriate is all this - for example, in my handle there was no place for the capacitor at all. In addition, some users wrote that the accuracy of thermal stabilization at closed condenser condensing was higher. In general, if this capacitor in your model is provided, you can try both Syak.
Judging by the reviews in the Internet, in some handles, in addition to the condenser and Vibrator, there was still a thermistor, allegedly to control the temperature of the cold end. However, then it came to the manufacturers that the cold side sensor is logically placed directly on the controller board and they do not suffer more than such garbage.
About the vibrator. As a vibrator in such stations, either SW-18010P vibration sensors (rare) or SW-200D (mainly) are used. Some craftsmen use mercury sensors - I am not at all a supporter of using mercury in the economy, so this approach will not discuss here.
SW-18010P is the usual spring in a metal case. They write that for the soldering iron such a sensor is much less convenient than SW-200D, which is a simple metal "cup" with two balls inside. In my kit there were two SW-200D, I advise them to use them.
The vibrator is needed for the automatic transition of the station into a waiting mode, in which the temperature of the sting decreases until the soldering iron is again in hand. Function ultra-comfortable, so I extremely recommend that you do not refuse from the sensor.
If you judge the picture with the handle connection scheme, the Chinese advise to get a silver pin sensor toward the sting. I, in fact, just did it and everything works very conveniently.
However, someone has this sensor for some reason does not work normally - they write that the soldering iron has to shake to bring out of sleep mode and explain this picture from which it is obvious that if the sensor is tilted towards the handle, the contact can not be yet Shake. In general, if in your case the station does not go out of the sleep mode when you just take a soldering iron, try to overpass the vibrator to the opposite side.
There is one more hint - some cakes advise two sensors in parallel and multidirectionally, then everything should work at any position of the soldering iron. Indirectly, this assumption confirms the fact that in many kits the Chinese put two sensors, and on the handle itself two places nearby where they are very convenient to spread - most likely it is for this. Everything worked at me right away, so Hint did not check.
If you still do not want to use the auto-trip function at all or you do not like how the vibrator rattles, it can be turned off simply by closed SW and + On the controller board, and the wires going to the handle do not unpack at all.
About the case. As I have already written above, I chose a standard aluminum case that is offered for these stations. And the choice of my I, in general, satisfied. There are several moments to pay attention to.
First, it is necessary to somehow fasten the power supply in the case. I solved it trite drilling four holes in the housing and fastening the power supply to the screws. In my case, the power supply was simply a separate fee with radiators, and because The body is aluminum, it was necessary to make some bins so that the power supply board does not lie directly on the housing. For this I cut out two bars from the plexiglas, in which he drilled two holes under the screws and the problem was solved. You can still, for example, cut out of some polymer tube insulating rings of the desired height, but it seemed to me that the idea with plexiglass strips is easier.
Secondly, I hoped at a gloomy Chinese genius and did not check the size of the housing and the power supply. It was a mistake. As can be judged by photograph below, it turned out that after installing the controller, my block climbs into the body almost right, which is not good. I had to disappear the output terminals of the block and solder the wires with the power connector of the controller directly on the BP fee. If there were no connector on the controller on the controller board, the block would be indispensable, which would be significantly less convenient. From the side of 220V, I added an additional insulation of the heat shrink and the thermoclaus. Also can be seen a thermoclaus band on a 220V connector - to dangle less.
About the power supply and refinement of the controller. As I already wrote above, I had a version station E. with ordinary electrolyte. Everyone knows that ordinary electrolytes have a lying property with time, so I replaced the electrolyte on the polymer capacitor, which was lying at hand. I also released the contacts of the encoder - many users noticed that without this, the button in the encoder did not work (if you paid attention to the photos shown earlier, it can be seen that three cards from the four central contact of the encoder did not appreciate).
The power supply, which was sent to me complete with the station, had a marriage - one of the hot-part diodes was soldered with an incorrect polarity, which is why the power Mosfate has already burned down at the third inclusion of the soldering station and had to deal with the reason by spending another half day . It was also lucky that Pwm Controller is not dead after Mosfet. This is what I can make sense to collect the block itself, or use some more proven.
As the minimum refinement of BP on the output electrolytes, the ceramics of small capacity was parallel with those that were drunk at hand, as well as a replaced inter-winding capacitor to a higher voltage.
After all the picking, it turned out a fairly powerful and reliable block and the controller, although the forces spent clearly more than I planned.
Directly during the work of the soldering iron, you can change the temperature adjustment step and produce temperature calibration - menu items P10 and P11. This is done as follows - click on the encoder handle and hold for about 2 seconds, we get to the P10 item, short-term pressing, change the order (hundreds, dozens, units), change the knob to change the value, then press again and 2 sec. Hold the encoder handle, the value is preserved, and we go to paragraph P11, etc., subsequent 2c. Pressing returns to the operating mode.
To get into the extended program menu, you need to hold the Handle of the Encoder and not releasing the power supply to the controller.
The most commonly encountered the following menu ( short descriptionThe brackets contain default values):
To move between menu items, you need to briefly clamp the encoder button.
Sometimes the following menu configuration is also found:
It is worth noting that, in contrast to the trace of the board, the firmware options can be much more, therefore there is no simple description of the menu items - options may be set, even in one version of the board they may differ. Is it possible to advise all the same to take models with a text display, and if it is absent to watch the recommendations of the seller who bought.
TOTAL: In general, the station works fine and I believe that hemorrhoids with assembly fully justifies. A little later, I will compare several different stations, there and I will describe all the advantages \\ disadvantages.
That's all, thanks for reading!
Hello to all readers of my blog. I post articles infrequently. Now there is little time, and on writing articles often goes not one evening. I want to say something else. Many people write me that I am an asshole, and the Chinese are sent to me for reviews. So, all you see in my blog and on the YouTube channel (except for the Santk Stabilizer) were bought by me personally, and in any way is not a gift of the supplier, for the fake review. So toll will ask pass by.
Today we will talk to you about the soldering station Quicko T12-952. It is already clear from the model that this soldering station operates on replaceable cartridges-stinging T12. Why did I solve this "solder" ??? !!! I have already had an adjustable soldering iron for many years, for more than five years. The article was written about him in 2013. Later a soldering station was bought. In it, exactly the same soldering iron as in. After some time, I'm a pretty soldering iron from these solders, and recently I bought myself a soldering station on T12 stals. I wanted to first buy an induction soldering station, but the toad strangled. Previously, soldelts Quick 202 were on sale on Ali, but they disappeared from sale, and replaced them Quick 203, the reviews about which in turn is not very. Simply put, the people from 203 models spit. And on the induction soldering stations the price of at least 5-6 thousand + set of 1-1.5 thousand set. Here is a prehistory. And let's start with unpacking. The parcel came to the box inserted into the package, and the Quicko branded scotch. It was surprised that she was not printed at customs.
I did not photograph the box itself, it was also saved by the branded Scotchie Quicko. See you can on a video review. The kit itself is the controller with a power supply in one case, a soldering iron with a GX12-4PIN connector and one sting type "K" (Toporik). I ordered the second sting right away, because of considerations that I do not like to solder the hatchery (here who likes what). Even in the kit there are four rubber self-adhesive legs. But I glued more large, from D-Link switches. The sting is marked not like Hakko, but as Quicko. Made in China.
The block itself in which the power supply and controller is mounted. I disassembled it, and I was very surprised. The housing is made very high quality. I was just delighted. I have not seen such Chinese buildings for a long time. That's not even the language does not turn to say that this is a Chinese handicraft.
This "solder" was ordered with the handle of the soldering iron as y and so that there was no noticeable transition from one soldering room to another. If you wish, you can freely replace the handle of the soldering iron, it is not expensive. On the device exactly the same as previously listed soldering iron stations. The only only upper sleeve that dresses the sting is shorter. Everything else is the same.
The inside of the soldering iron. Made in the form of a shawl of tectolith with contacts. There is a slope sensor on the board. He, by the way, is satisfied with noisy, if you pass. I first thought that something fell in the soldering iron, and then it turned out - it's just a sensor. Soldering is performed qualitatively and neat. At the end of the board, in the place of the soldering, the cable is fastened with a screed.
I would like a little about the display. Here is not smoothly installed, and the window below the display is slightly larger than the display itself. And if you look at an angle, it turns out that it is clearly visible. But it's all the little things. Display one-color. You will see on.
Open the case. Everything looks very good. On the top and bottom lids there is a protective piece of plastic. It's nice to see.
Controller. The fee is small and running under the control of MK. The board also has a bipper, which disgusts.
Power supply board. In general, it is not bad. There are some comments, but it's all the little things. Soldering is good, the feet of the flux washed away. All clean.
Input condensers of the company VENT 22 μF by 400 V. Viewing old computer BPs such capacitors come across frequently, but at the moment it is a Chinese trash (the originals in the calculation do not take, now it is easier to run into the fake than on the original). Yes, and the container is not enough. For the future you need to put more, the lower on the board the markup is indicated for large capacitors. I have now replaced with nothing yet. Later I will definitely replace.
As a power transistor, a "swing", the primary transformer winding is applied from Silan Microelectronics. I also add the scheme engineering here. Diode Bridge Diodes are set by the type SMD with M7 marking. It . The diode is designed for the current in 1A voltage of 1000 V. for good it would be nice to replace, but when working in a pulse mode, it will endure and larger current.
On the BP device, I will not write a lot. The output part is assembled on a diode assembly designed for 10a and 200 V. installed with a margin. Weekend capacitors are installed by VENT and some kind of brand Yungli. For the first time I see this miracle. In general, these condensers are desirable to replace with normal expensive kapa. So it will be calmer. I will do it later. At the moment I want to drive a soldering station as it is.
But it surprised me. In general, it can and well that solder, but better if it were soldered instead of the connector. More acceptable option than soldering the connector contacts.
Station without a connected soldering iron. Writes that Error. The same will be if you do not insert a removable cartridge-sting.
Now let's all first, only when the soldering iron is connected. As soon as we turn on, we are welcomed by the inscription, which reports that this is T12 "solder".
If everything is good with electronics and sting, then the display will appear normal during the work of the inscription
Let's go to the settings now. To get into the settings menu, click on the encoder and keep some time. Menu appears. I'll say right away. To exit the menu and save the settings, just click on the encoder and keep. Move between menu items is carried out by the rotation of the encoder.
The first menu item is Calibration (Calibration). As I understood, a soldering iron exhibit 350 degrees, and measure the temperature. By changing the relationship Ratio., Default is 100%, change in one direction or another to reduce or increase the temperature. We make 1%. Changed, waited, stumbled. If not satisfied, repeat again. After manipulations, click on the encoder and go out in the menu. In my case it was necessary to reduce by 1%. The temperature exceeding was 10 degrees. Generally it was possible to touch anything. It is easier in the course of the business soldering to choose the required temperature.
Further function AUTO SLEEP.. Automatic sleep function. It is determined by the range from 1 to 99 minutes and there is also an OFF mode that turns off this function. This functionality works as follows. When we do not touch the soldering iron and the tilt sensor is not triggered, about which it was about many rows above, the station after the exposed time turns into a temperature reduction mode to 150 degrees and also reduces power consumption. If you press or twist an encoder, as well as shake a soldering iron, then the station quickly gains the necessary temperature. Oh yeah, I have 5 minutes installed for convenience.
The queue function AUTO POWEROFF.. Here, as in the previous menu, the range from 1 to 99 minutes, with the position OFF which completely disables this function. It works as follows. As soon as the timer runs AUTO SLEEP. Timer turns on AUTO POWEROFF. And the temperature is reduced to 50 degrees. In theory, the soldering station must then turn off completely, but in my case it is not turned off. The function is very useful. I had no cases when I forgot to turn off my own, and he had a day war. Not only is this function will save electricity, but also will save from the fire. The desired and very practical function!
Immediately I want to say. When testing, I noticed such a thing that if the function AUTO SLEEP. put in office that the function stops working AUTO POWEROFF.. Options tried a lot. One function depends on the other. And I tried to put a timer on AUTO SLEEP. 1 min. and on AUTO POWEROFF.But the launch of the power failure works only after the expiration of two minutes. It turns out works by the timer of the first function, and then starts to go the timer of the second function. In general bug.
Let's start by S. Boost Duration.. This function has a range from 10 to 99 s. With 1 s increments. The default is 30 s. I left and left. This feature allows you to increase the temperature of the sting for the time installed in this feature. This functionality is necessary when heating heat and high heat polygons. Click on the encoder handle once briefly and the booster is turned on, which raises the temperature.
I bring to your attention a review of the Chinese soldering station based on the STC controller for stacking type Hakko T12.
I can immediately say than it differs from the stations on the STM32 controller. The STC does not have a blind library T12 (which is used for individual calibration of sting), respectively, there is no individual calibration of the filler and no hours. STM32 allows you to remember for each of your sting 3 calibration points.
I immediately apologize, according to the unknown me, my photos are not attached to the review (perhaps they are too big, only strongly reduced screenshots attached) + I just don't have anything, I will not use other photos.
Select station.
The study of forums and articles led to the thought that I need a soldering iron with temperature adjustment.
There are several variants of the soldering iron, in the knob of which the temperature regulator is built in, they are relatively cheap and quite suitable for amateur purposes.
But appetite comes during meals))) I really wanted a high-quality soldering iron and, if possible with digital adjustment.
Everything is simple here - if it is inexpensive, then either relative quality or temperature adjustment.
This category is popular. 
More expensive alternative - soldering stations on the stals of the 900 series, for example, the production of Lukey. 
There are a lot of such stations, including with hair dryers (I would be convenient to plant heat shrinking Cammiks), but in budget versions There is one well-known minus - a small gap between the heating element and a stale that hinders the rapid heat exchange between them. According to many, this clearance is needed to compensate for thermal deformations. They say the problem is easily treated with a lump of foil or a "file", but I somehow did not like it immediately.
Also recommended a soldering iron, he does not have such a gap. I did not like that you need to buy a power supply and "collective me" connector. Included it is not. 
As a result, my choice fell on the soldering station on the t12 stals. These stages are also devoid of unnecessary gaps, due to the fact that the heating element, thermocouple and the sting itself are placed in one case, but the range is more popular and the range is much wider.
Such sting uses other manufacturers, they are known from the mid-70s and have proven themselves to work well.
. By the way, similar, but sold in other regions.
There were several options for Chinese stations on T12 stals, as it turned out later, even more than I expected. You can buy them in the form of finished products (I did it), or in parts, combining them at your own wishes. I chose a ready-made option, so the kit went about the same money, and I did not have another soldering iron to build sets.
They differ in the housing, power supply, controller and screen, handle. Well, the sting you can choose any. IN ready-made versions You can usually be asked to put the desired, the Chinese say they do not refuse.
Included I also had a yellow sponge for cleaning the sting, rosin and power cord with grounding. By the way, the sting is reliably connected to the Earth. 
Station management
On the back wall of the case there is a switch. The station is controlled by the rotation of the encoder and short and lengthy presses on it.
Below, we present the menu menu, work screen, Standby and Sleep modes. 
A small addition of 04/03/2017.
The old handle knocked me a couple of times, a textolite basket was displeased. I decided to buy a new one. I am reading off ...
I came the FX-9501 handle ordered by me. I looked at her, tested and ... postponed to the best (or worst?) Times.
I did not like me.
On the photo from above, my old handle (951) and new. 
First about the pros. Main because of what I took a new handle - in the old very unreliable textolite basket: 
In the new everything is much more contemporary, more beautiful and more reliable: 
This with the pros is finished. Not much of them, yes ...
Minuses.
First, the rubber sealer dangles: 
Why is it completely incomprehensible. But he is clearly thinner than it should be.
Secondly, the inscription is already initially lost, "under ancient": 
The sting of a little pituitary in the handle, but I think it is not critical.
Still does not record the nut, but simply inserted into the handle. And inserted deeper than in the old handle.
It seems to be comfortable ... For the sake of this, many of them buy it. But there are nuances ...
In the old stall, the fixing nut is relatively further from the tip of the tip, in this part the sting is no longer hot and the nut can be unscrewed during operation. I changed the sting not to turn off the soldering iron.
In the new handle, such a focus will not pass. That part of the stale that sticks out already hot.
As a result of the deep fit of the sting, the part of the handle, for which you keep, is experiencingly heats up in work. Not that it was fodder, but unpleasant. With an old handle, this could not be.
Well, yet, the new handle does not hold well in the holder: 
Well, okay, for a spare handle will go.
There is another oddity with it. If you turn it up with sting up, it begins to bite the thermal sensor, and accordingly "swim" the temperature. If you hold it longer than it, then the station shows instead of the temperature of the cold spa "? 20", this is Chinese means "sensor error".
In the working position (sting down) such an error does not seem to arise.
This is probably somehow due to the fact that green wire Common for the thermal sensor and ball sensor position. It is not clear why there is no such problem with the old handle, although the sprinkling and the sensors are the same.
In conclusion, I will give a few links to comments in other reviews and just useful links. I have not been informed of me, checking it yourself independently.
The popular set of Hakko T12 allows you to make a good soldering station for a little money. This set has already been considered on Muske, because of what I decided to acquire it. Under the cat, my stations assembly experience in the case from the available components. Perhaps someone will be useful.
What happened in the end. 
The assembly of the handle is described in detail in the previous review. Therefore, I will not consider it. I note only that the main thing is to be attentive when positioning contact pads. It is important that both platforms for soldering spring-loaded contact are located next to the same side, because if they are mistaken, it is quite difficult to overpand. I saw this mistake in several visits on YouTube. 
Since the Chinese picture with a pinout looks somewhat confusing, I decided to draw more understandable. The order of contacts from the vibrator to the controller does not matter.
In the comments, an argument arose about the correct position of the vibrator, it is the SW-200D angle sensor. This sensor is used to automatically transition of the soldering iron into a waiting mode in which the temperature of the sting becomes 200C until the soldering iron will not get into the hand again. Experimentally established the only correct position of the sensor. The transition to sleep mode occurs if no changes come from the sensor for more than 10 minutes and, accordingly, the output from the sleep mode happens if at least some oscillations were fixed. 
In this sensor, the testimony of vibration is possible only at the moment when the balls are affected by the contact site. If the balls lie in the glass, then no data will do. Therefore, the sensor needs to be soldered up, and the contact site towards sting. The glass of the sensor looks like a all-metal edge, and the contact site is made of yellowish platform.
If you position the sensor with a glass down (in the direction of sting), the sensor will not work at the vertical location of the soldering iron and it will have to shake it to exit sleeping mode. 
Timeout transition to sleep mode can be adjusted in the menu. To go to the configuration menu, you need to press the button on the hollow (click on the temperature knob) when the controller is turned off, turn on the controller and release the button.
Transition time to sleep mode is adjusted in P08. You can set a value from 3 minutes to 50, others will be ignored.
To move between menu items, you must briefly clamp the ignition button.
P01 ADC Reference Voltage (Obtained by Measuring The TL431)
P02 NTC Correction (by Setting The Temperature to the Lowest Reading On The Digital Observation)
P03 OP AMP INPUT OFFSET VOLTAGE CORRECTION VALUE
P04 THERMOCUPLE AMPLIFIER GAIN
P05 PID PARAMETERS PGAIN
P06 PID PARAMETERS IGAIN
P07 PID PARAMETERS DGAIN
P08 Automatic Shutdown Time Setting 3-50 Minutes
P09 Restore Factory Settings
P10 Temperature Settings Stepping
P11 THERMOCOUPLE AMPLIFIER GAIN
In order to squeeze the maximum power from the soldering iron, it is necessary to feed it with voltage 24V. When nutrition 19v and above do not forget to remove the resistor 
The most useful turned out to be T12-BC1 
It turned out that for each sting you need to calibrate the temperature separately. I managed to achieve discrepancies in a couple of degrees. 
In general, the soldering iron is very satisfied. Together with a normal flux learned to solder SMD at the level of which before and did not dream.
