We begin the black cover of the case. Reiki lubricated PVA glue and immediately sled on her nails. Since nails are very small and score them is inconvenient to apply the natives. There was still no such tool in my arsenal, so I had to make it yourself. After that, the work went much faster and I made a bunch of mistakes on joy (which I will say a little later). So that in the places of sharp bends of the rake has not cracked and did not break it need to soak in hot water About an hour. You can be bent over the ferry, but it seemed more convenient for me, since I would get a few ridges at once and work is faster. He noted the first rack so that later it was seen from where to start the trim in the dark tree.
Note1: The reduced method of gluing is known for a long time and was used to clamp furniture with a veneer of valuable woods with a joinery glue.
Note2: All specified dimensions and time intervals are approximate, they may depend on the scale of the model, the grade of glue, the moon phases, etc.
Usually, the gluing of the plating slats is performed in a cold way - glue is applied on the bar, it is applied to the place and pressed with the help of various clamps. The climber, crocodiles, stationery binders, clamps, all sorts of grip, etc. are used as presivers, etc., and this list is constantly updated. What only tricks do not have to resort sometimes to somehow press the bar. The disadvantage of this method - you need to wait long until the glue grabs and there is no place everywhere for which you can cling to the clamp. Another disadvantage can be considered a small force of the climb, so to minimize the gap, you have to carefully customize the bonded surfaces. With hot welding of the trim, the grasp of glue occurs in 20-40 seconds, during this time the rail can be very strong with hands. The hot rail is more flexible and puffy, sits well in place, strong clamp allows you to choose a clearance to a minimum.
So, we assume that we already have a ready-made basis for the trim - a set of housing. When performing a two-layer trim, we assume the presence of a finished first draft layer, which must be fixed with cloves or heat-resistant glue, otherwise it can be cut off when heated. The set with a single-layer trim should be carefully tested for compliance with the drawing. If the drawing shows the external encloding of the case, then it is necessary to take away the estimated thickness of the trim. With the help of thin flexible rail, commensurate with the sheaths of the trim, the quality of the kits - the rail must be bending smoothly and removed without the gaps to the ends of the splits. With two-layer trim, the quality of the first layer is checked.
Choose a tree based on availability and capabilities. Of the best pears and nuts available, you can other fruit. Wear shelter racks on a circular. It is best to do this in two receptions (Fig. 1) - first the board is blocked on the rails with a thickness of the width of the plating boards, then these rails are cut to the objects actually, and the thickness is better to give 0.5 - 1 mm for subsequent grinding.
For gluing the trim, you need glue PVA and Iron. The glue must be sufficiently thick. Sometimes it is for sale too liquid PVA glue, which is well glue paper, but it is not suitable for wood. Iron is better to highlight separate in order not to have conflicts in the family, it is possible the easiest, but necessarily with the thermostat. In principle, the iron is indicated as the most affordable tool, you can also apply another heater, for example, a powerful soldering iron with a thermostat and a smooth massive latice.
For a better result of the rail, which will be faced with curvilinear areas of the body of the body, it is better to be bend better, giving them a final form at the installation site. This is done with the same iron.
By the way, the quote from the article (Tooling_Primer_on_planking.php): "... in fact, each rail must be given the appropriate form, since it cannot be bent on the edge. Bending on the edge means lateral cross flexion of the rail. If you try to do it, one edge of the rail will rise over the splits, and you will not be able to nail it, her edge will perform in this place over the rest. " It is difficult to understand what technology and wood used by the author, but the tree be perfectly nuts on the edge after disconnecting and heating. (In principle, the author of the given quotation of rights: it is not that it is impossible to bend on the edge, but that it is impossible to cover the surface of the double curvature surface. - Approx. V.D.) For example, the same pears and nuts 5x1.5 mm are very easily bent to the radius of about 10 cm. If the request is large, then you can bend a few pieces to 3 cm, but the broken plates will be four times more.
So, for bending, you need to choose the highest quality rails, without defects and vices, wood fibers should be directed strictly along the rack. Any non-uniformity in the wood structure will be a potential fault site. Rakes are immersed in water for 5-15 minutes, then the operated rail is pressed against wooden board Hot (adjuster about ** and ***) Iron and stroking along the rack. The right hand (for the right-hander) moves the iron from left to right, and the end of the raka is deflected by the left hand to the desired side, and not only perpendicular to the rail, but a little away from the iron so that the rake is also tension (Fig. 2). This reduces the likelihood of rack fracture.
The bending on the edge is carried out almost the same (Fig. 3), but it has to be extremely careful here. Any hasty leads to a breakdown of the rail. Worked rack lies on the board and strokes the iron. When the iron moves, the end of the rail gradually deflects in the desired side. After the first pass, the rail is again immersed in water and the same operation is performed on the other side of the rail. Gradually, step by step rake bends to the desired profile. With some reek and patience, this operation gives a good result (Fig.4).
Now actually about the process of welding the trim. The surface surface is grounded diluted by 2-3 times PVA glue. While the primer dries, it is necessary to make a simplest clamp from a wooden rail to a cross section of approximately 3x20 mm, for which the end of the rail is sharpened to thickness equal to about one-time thickness of the rivers, for convenience in the face you can make a narrow groove (Fig.5)
The trim is usually starting with Barhouds (Mainves), which divide the case of the housing to the surface and underwater part. The thickness of the barholes is a little more thickness of the plating boards, but the principle of their gluing is the same. To facilitate the bend of barhoutes in the nose part, you can make several transverse cuts with back side (Fig. 6). The position of the barhoutes must be removed very precisely, after gluing them must be fixed with cloves to eliminate the offset.
So - the skin. A layer of glue with a thickness of about 0.5 mm is applied on the rear on the reverse side, the rail is applied to its place on the case, slightly presses and then removed. Visual monitoring of wetting with glue of the trimmed surface is performed, if necessary, a little glue is applied to the places that are dried. Now you need to withstand a pause of 30-60 seconds so that the glue began to polymerize. Next, the rail is placed in place and its end of 30-40 mm long warms up for about 20-30 seconds until the glue starts to throw, after which, with the help of the climb, the rail is strongly pressed against the surface. The direction of the climb is chosen so that the rake is pressed to the trim surface, and to the edge of the neighboring rail, and to the end of the neighboring rail (Fig. 7). Pressure is needed quite strongly within 20-40 seconds until the glue freeze. Further, the rest of the rail gradually welds the rest of 30-100 mm (depends on the curvature of the surface). Everything, the rail is glued, you do not need any presses and carnations, you can glue the following.
When the curved surface is trimmed by the rails, it is necessary to give a trapezoidal section to ensure a dense adjacent of the rails (Fig. 8).
One of the advantages of the given method is the reversibility of the process, i.e. if the plank is welded badly, it can be heated again and removed. Even a few weeks later, it is easy to separate the rail, although over time the adhesive compound is gradually hardening.
Despite the strong clamp at the moment of welding, sometimes the defects of the skin arise in the form of cracks between the slats (Fig. 9a). In this case, you can use the following way.
With the help of a sharp cutter, the slit will have a slightly wedge-shape (Fig. 9b), then the corresponding mold of the wedge is cut (Fig. 9c). The color of the wood and the direction of the fibers in the wedge must coincide with neighboring rails, when this condition is fulfilled, the defect will practically not be noticeable. The wedge is lubricated with PVA glue and tightly inserted into the slot. After a few minutes, when the glue slightly grabbing, the protruding part of the wedge is cut into a sharp cutter at an altitude of about 0.5 mm (Fig. 9d). Next, the wedge presses from above the hot iron. Under the influence of heat and moisture from glue, the wedge softens and tightly fills the gap. After cooling, it remains to sand the place of repair - the defect will be almost impaired (see the selected area in Fig. 10). The slot is less than 0.3 mm wide, you can not close - when varnishing, they will be lacquered.
The method described above, I crossed two models, the result is very pleased, which I wish. :)
I bought not all magazines, because castings imitating barrels, bottles, rope and other torment do not cost the money that they are asked for them, but order similar elements, but better quality And cheaper will not be difficult. To show the car's inside, how the authors of this model are calculated, the ship clearly lacks the splint sets. So if the inside is not true, then it is better to hide it ...
I post the result of the works for today. I must say it is just a chic designer. Convergence of parts on 6 points on 5 points! The whole skeleton gathered on dry, and then the seams spilled with Cosmofen without disassembling. Although without him everything was perfect.
Immediate columns, bims and decks. Start the trim. At the moment it is almost everything that came out on journals regarding the corps. After turning the nasal and feed splits, we glue the remaining objects.
All elements are smooth, there is nothing to handle, the inside will not be visible, it is not necessary to paint accordingly, the internal decks are not needed to cover - therefore quickly.
Now I see that the body is much wider than necessary, plus the profile of all the splintmosts is not such a spacing, as it should be. Anyway. Now about the construction site. Having cut the boards with a roughing. I could not get one with a fodder of the trim, so I had to make the part from the remnants of the frames for the details. In the last issue I received, as it seemed to me the trim, the right side - Locked. It was a covering of the inside of the left side. Completing them, I realized that you can apply these details as a lipboard with small adjustments. Put the upper gun deck and a tank deck and a ruster lattice on it. The hole for it did not cut - there will be no backlight. Began to make a black stern.
She graduated from the corps of the case and found a huge cant of the manufacturer:
1) for some reason, the cannon ports closer to the feed and do not have rectangular forms to the Baku, and the rhombid (as, interesting, such ports close the lid in reality? Because the loops will be located space, then the lid lid themselves will be not perpendicular to the side, And at an angle to it !!). Well, I will not correct.
2) If you look at the drawings (even those that are posted on this page), it is not difficult to notice that the bulkhead with the door in the cabin is located almost immediately at the end of the 2 cannon port of the lower gun deck, and according to the magazine, before 3 of the cannon port .
Change under paragraph 2 - in vain looked. After installing feed top parts, it turned out that the first high swarthings that I thought were needed for bulkhead with the door, turned out to be racks to hold high sides. Black trim has not yet been whisked.
Completely finished roughing. Now I cut the veneer for finishing.
I start the finishing trim. Cut the "boards" from the veneer ash 5x60 mm. At first I scor the gaps between the cannon ports, then I close everything else space.
A small leafness relative to the photographing of the model (maybe someone will need). I performed 3 snapshot with the same angle, but with a different focal length (different use of the zoom). Pay attention to how the perception of the model changes. Without zoom - 15 mm Model is very dramatized, distorting proportions, with a moderate zoom - 35 mm The model is reduced by length and looks like the most similar to what we see. With a large zoom - 85 mm, the model continues to "flatten out" and looks shorter than it really is. Conclusion - you want to "elegantly" stretch the model (or women's legs) - remove in widescreen mode (10-25 mm), you want a reality - 30-40 mm your choice. Want to remove the model on the background of the moon - 500 mm will be enough for sure. These focal lengths are given with no full-frame matrix (Canon 50D) and others like it, with a complete matrix (canon 5d and analogs), these numbers must be multiplied by 1.6.
After a long absence, I finally can lay out the fruits of my sluggish work. General form.
In continuation, some details. Barrels steering wheel - ordered on shipyard.
Came a turn of the boat. I decided to order her on shipyard (and did it right). The model is simply gorgeous. Very detailed and great is going. But the waters one problem crushed - the boat turned out to be much less than what it is necessary. We'll have to order a new one - more, and this will send to the revenge of Queen Anna (it is smaller and in size the boat is perfectly rising).
Ships in comparison !!!
Today I work dad Carlo and pulling the roof of the balcony.
The first thing cleaned the pie from Linek, gaining the desired height, then I cut off the Prokson Electroltrolovik everything is superfluously clearly along the contour of the balcony. Lobzik takes this thickness (16 mm) without problems.
Now the densem starts to remove everything too much, I form a roof. In the photos, it is not glued. Now it remains to cut the veneer with stripes and glue over, imitating the tile. For the entire trimming-turning, there is only 1.5 hours !!
I continue to work on the body.
Details:
Balcony elements.
The lanterns were ordered on shipyard.
To start the coloring remains only to finalize the vantputtenses, a nasal mast and make the bottom of the bottom
Before painting, I wanted to finish the body, and the nails ended and every little one. While I was waiting for the parcel from Peter, I thought crazy from idleness. The past boat was small, so I ordered a new one. This one fell under the size. I decided to fill nails in Barhoutes and make chains on a steering wheel. I know that there was no chain on the original, but since it is a pretty smart and necessary attribute, I decided to do it (and it looks more beautiful). Wantputetes, as promised - chains. They are easier to make even on one level than any others. Although it is not right, but exactly and neat. The mast is just stuck in the deck.
Two cladding methods have been used on sailing ships.
Plug "Vnakroy"
The most ancient way to cover a set-made corps, known in Egypt and Phenicia from the third millennium BC - the "Vnakroy" lining or clinker, when one belt belt of the edge of the edge goes to the neighboring and fastened with nails.
So the most ships were cut until the end of the XV century.
Until our days, clinker is applied on boats and similar small courts.
Touching "Train"
This type is more technological and having the best seawater quality. The type of sheath has completely supplanted clinker on large ships in the first half of the XVI century.
On relatively small ships, a single-layer cover was used, and on the larger - two-layer, at which the seams of the outer layer were shifted relative to the internal seams.
The length of the trim board was 6 - 8 m, the width is up to 10 inches or 25 cm (1 inch \u003d 2.54 cm), and the thickness is up to 6 inches (16.5 cm).
Fucked with iron, copper or wooden nails (braided).
Selection of veneer
The selection of veneer for the body of the body, probably, the most difficult part of the work - everything will depend on what you managed to get. Therefore, to recommend something concrete is quite difficult here, and the basic requirements, the requirements for the veneer at this stage, I described in the first chapter.
There I said that distinctive feature russian School of Sudesodelizm It was a desire to use the natural color of wood, selecting it as close as possible to the painted original. If you want to work in such a technique, it is necessary to take into account when choosing a veneer colors.
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How can the housing fragment linear ship Made by such a technique can be seen in the photo on the left.
But the body of the ship "Ingermanland", the fragment of which is given in the photo on the right, is made of a monochrome veneer with a decor of colored paper and black barhoutes.
To cover the upper part of the side that does not have rounding in the nasal tip, it is in principle, any veneer of the corresponding color and texture. It is necessary to avoid too much texture pattern - on the model it will look somewhat ridiculous. Yes, and, in addition, such wood often has a very large-porous structure, which will not allow to achieve a high-quality surface. Choosing a veneer in color, keep in mind that after the coating lacquer it darkens. What it will come after that can be checked, wetting his surface. With the cover of the lower part of the side, and, moreover, the underwater surface, everything is more complicated.
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From my own experience I can say that most chances to choose a suitable breed will be among the bright varieties of mahogany. Unfortunately, I do not know their exact species names - the tropical breeds of their dozens, but we are all known under the name "Red Tree". The simplest way Determine whether the piece of veneer you choose is suitable for this - cut off the strip of a width of about 5 mm and, carefully, but strongly, pressing with your fingers, try to shoggle it the ribbed cork from the "moment". At first glance, this may seem incredible, but ideally the strip of wood some rocks can be wrapped around the plug, not breaking. The cork ribs slightly abandon the fibers of the inner surface, alleviating the fold, and its sufficiently large diameter will not allow the strip to break.
If it managed - consider what you're lucky - such a veneer will fit perfectly. If not - try to take some cork with a similar surface, but more diameter, and try rounding the veneer on it. If it did not work out, and there is no other selection of veneer - you have to soak the veneer strips in hot water, to give them the desired shape, dry and only after this is sowing. I did not have to successfully resort to this method, therefore, recommendations based on personal experience I will not give. I will only say that the veneer after drying is breeding, it becomes more difficult with them, but in the extreme case and such a way out is possible.
We assume that you have decided on the choice of veneer, you have a sufficient stock, to be able to afford to spoil several segments until you purchase the necessary skill, and are ready for the beginning of work.
Cutting veneer
For cutting strips, the plastic line is best. Wooden is not suitable completely - through several inaccurate movements on it, cut plots and jar will appear. Metal is also not good - here you can randomly spoil the knife. Perfect option - A line from a transparent plexiglass, to see and what is under it - sometimes it helps a lot in work. If she has no holes at the ends - drill - it will be useful.
Cut the most convenient on the plywood strip, into which three nails are drunk. On two of them, the distance between which should be more maximum length The stripes, the ruler is based on cutting, and the third passes through the hole in the line and does not allow it to shift along the cutting line. It is more convenient to drive it right.
On Paneur, it is necessary to make some substrate on which you will cut. It can be linoleum, PVB tiles or just dense, not necessarily thick, cardboard. I use substrates from the glued twice of cardboard from dairy boxes. Never sorry to throw out the rugged and make a new one. Fortunately, the material is always at hand. The substrate does not need to be attached to the plywood, it would be better that it would be possible to shift and the incision would be going through a new place.
Do not try to cut veneer just pressing the line with your hand, as in drawing. The knife is so insistently trying to go not in a straight line, but along the line fibers, which still does not work. Even just the first two of the mentioned nails do not always help: if the wood is solid enough, with a strong pressing on the knife veneer "crashes" from under the line together with plywood.Therefore, spend a few minutes and make the above-described device approximately as on the side of the left.
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On the same scheme, it can be seen how it is better to have a sheet of veneer when cutting. Pay attention to the direction of the fibers - they must be a little, just a little away from the line in the direction of cutting, and not go under it. Otherwise, the knife will strive to "exhale" a sheet of veneer from the line, and eventually sooner or later he will do it. And so the knife will just leave the fibers up, leaving the veneer in place. Such a "failure" to adjust much easier.
When cutting, you should not strive to cut a veneer from one pass. Wood fibers need some time for deformation, so with a strong pressing on the knife more likely to form an advanced crack before the cutting edge, as a result of which the fibers will be broken earlier than the edges of the blade will have time to pass through the veneer and, accordingly, the cut line will be less smooth.
As already noted, the veneer has the facial and irons. Accordingly, the origin will stick, and the front then grind.
Before cutting strips to cover the surface of the side of the side, using the drawing, calculate their width.
When cutting due to the wedge-shaped form, the fiber of the layer facing up, frighten is rather noticeable, and the fibers of the lower layer are simply cut. As a result, in the section, the strip has a trapezoid shape, as in Fig. on right. Naturally, when sticking the veneer of the lower (in the figure), significant slots will remain between the strips, and there will be significant slits between the strips, and when the uppermost strips are gluing almost close to each other.
From what is said clearly that when you cut up, an insular side of the veneer should be addressed. How to determine it, has already been said, and having done it, it is worth it to shake the sheet right away, so that after cutting it was immediately visible, which way to smear glue.
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One end edge of the sheet from the wrong side is also pronounced to color pencil or marker. This will then help immediately, not looking at, determine which of the edges of the strip is perpendicular (it remains under the ruler when it is cut), but what is bevelled. All this happens conveniently to see, sheathing the body, especially the underwater part, in order to form the highest quality, without gaps and cracks, surface.
When cutting, you need to monitor that the marked edge would always be on the one hand. Left or right - no matter, but with one. If you need to deploy a sheet of veneer - it's worth cutting or watch marking and apply it to another end.
Starting with a veneer, mark on the side of the side of the Barhount line on the side, and calculate the exemplary width of the strip of the trim, taking into account the selection of the veneer in color. The same markup will help withstand the necessary bending of the bands when sticking.
In serious model literature Recommendations are given to simulate a set of sewing from individual boards. But in our case, because of the small scale, attempts to do this will not give any visible effect, and rather can even bring a negative result. A qualitatively completed solid smooth skin cover will look much better.
The optimal width of the strips with which it is convenient to operate, ranges from 3 to 6 mm depending on the curvature of the outlines of the body and the elasticity of the veneer. The strips of greater width are usually poorly bent in its plane, although, in those places where the continuity of the object is not important, for example, on the places of future cannon ports, it is quite possible and can be born without prejudice to the appearance.
Sheaving
The covering of the surface of the side of the side usually does not represent special difficulties. The outlines of the nasal tip on it are close to cylindrical, and the pasting of their veneer is quite simple. Before it began to mark the axial line of the surface of the body. This will allow to withstand the symmetry of the trim. After that, you can proceed directly to the very trim.
From my own experience I can say that the adhesive is most convenient to apply immediately on both boards with stripes, a width sufficient for sticking in one reception of six-seven strips of the trim.
Where the ends of the stripes form curvilinear belts of the nasal tip, they are already after applying glue, immediately before sticking, you need to bend with the help of a traffic jam from the "moment" using the method described earlier when checking the veneer on elasticity. The most tips: about millimeters five - you can even add to the addition, to avoid their further dug.
It is very important to carefully ensure that it would not be unpacked by glue areas of surfaces, both the housing and veneer. Even if at this stage, the incomplete gluing will be inconspicuous, then in the further grinding, and especially when finishing, the uncomplicated veneer plots almost definitely retain, forming bubbles, "read", as stainless people say, and fix them is quite difficult. It is also important as a thorough trigger of the veneer when cladding.
Singing the underwater part is somewhat more complicated (it is good that this operation goes the second when there is already a certain skill obtained on a simpler area!).
Here, the nasal tip acquires the appearance of a spherical surface, the lining of which flat sheets Veneer will require a certain experience.
To begin with, I will say that the cut of the strips for this part will be different - the strips are more convenient to cut into the width at both ends, but a wedge-shaped form. One end is a narrow, no more than 1-2 mm wide, and the second is about 6-7 mm.
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Wide ends before the bend on the plug must be trimmed with scissors, giving them the form, approximately as in Fig. left. It is necessary to cut with such a calculation that when applied to the case, the cropped edge of the legged close to the strip passed earlier. At the same time, the strip holds with glue up, then the fibers will be deformed in such a way that, when gluing, a smaller gap is formed, according to the principle described in the commentary of the figure above.
In general, smearing and glue strips better with such a calculation to strips passed earlier, adjacent their beveling edge - so it turns out a more dense joint. Do not look at each strip and helps the marking of one end edge, which was previously stated.
Strips are glued, as a rule, alternating such cropped wide ends with narrow, which are easy to give the necessary bending.
The form of a wide end is determined by intuitively, "on the eye", therefore, until a sufficient experience is purchased, it is worth cutting some of them to flaming on glue and, bending on a traffic jam, attach to the body to see how it will fall and, perhaps correct its outline .
Sometimes it can be superimposed by a strip, slightly eliminating it in several places, or making small notches from the wrong side on one of the edges with a knife tip. In the future, when ticking the sheathing, grinding and finishing, these dorms and notches will be completely not visible, if, of course, they do not abuse.
In general, correctly chosen wood, thanks to its porous structure, it is quite well able to take and maintain the required form, deforming under load, which makes it possible to avoid particularly thorough fit. But only under the condition of careful gluing. The layer of "moment" when cladding the nasal surface should be particularly dense, because The load on the glue seam is very significant here. Therefore, if gluing will be fragile, then the lifting with further finish can be lagging behind.
When the trim approaching the keel region begins to affect the fact that the middle part of the case is somewhat wider than the nasal and fodder. Therefore, the sheath strips begin to bend more and stronger. To make it easier for work, some of them can be made by sighting from two ends. Again, one or another is completely permissible.
Complete the trim better directly on the axial line. As a rule, it is more difficult to achieve a qualitative last junction, but in this case it is not necessary. Here this joint will continue to be closed with a keel and terrestrial.
If, despite all the efforts, some noticeable gaps were formed, they can be seen in two ways.
First, it is possible to stuck on the PVA cut by a thin chips of the same veneer that the sheath itself, then, having dried a little, to sweat this place the knife with a knife, and let it finally dry. The second option is to fill the gap of thick PVA, stitching with a knife into it the smallest chips from the neighboring sites, compacted the blade with a tip and dry well again.
The ends of the stripes protruding for the trauma, it is better to cut, leaving the skes about 5mm .. Crop them immediately flush with the plane of the transnta yet: so it will be more risk Hurt a "pure cut" during grinding.
When the trim is fully ready, these ends need to be punctured from the back side along the transaction contour line to avoid random chips for further processing.
Grinding
For pre-grinding, the skin is better suitable for the skin with graininess 10 - 16 according to GOST 3647-80. The higher the hardness of the wood, the smallest should be a skin. A small skin on the softwood too quickly "caught", and the largest can leave on solid rather noticeable scratches, which will be difficult to stall in the future.
In this case, the main work on grinding will have to the underwater part, made of sufficiently soft wood. Therefore, when choosing a skin, it is better to focus on it. Processing the surface, we must try that the direction of movement of the skins relative to the body coincided with the direction of the fibers of wood. About caution required when grinding, I think to speak too much. The risk to stroke the veneer through, especially in the nose, is quite large. If necessary, you can check the thickness of the remaining layer of veneer with simple mugging knife tip.
Grinding a concave part of the feed tip of the bottom, do not try to fully do it only with the help of a circle. It is also easy to spoil the surface. It is better to make it screwed onto a wooden cylinder skurt.
After the first grinding stage, the harvesting of the housing is wetted with water, into which approximately one fourth-fifth part of the PVA is added., And again they dry well. In this case, the fibers of the wood, wildly in the grinding process swell, rise, and, thanks to the PVA, are hardening. The surface becomes hard and rough. And now the smallest skins, graininess of 4 - 6, the surface is once again polished. Now finally.
There remains to handle the traum. A sharp knife of the veneer scks is cut off already flush with its plane. In this case, all cutting efforts should be sent in such a way that the veneer is pressed against the body to avoid openings. As well as when cutting strips, it is not necessary to strive to perform a cut in one movement: it is much easier to spoil the work than then repairing.
After trimming the plane of the transaction, again the accompanying effort only in the direction of the housing, is aligned with a small file.
Well, his lining with veneer, taking into account the experience gained, I suppose should not be much difficulty.
Relying the remaining sinks are best of all two receptions - to cut the main sink with a knife, and then with small files - flat and semicircular (or skin) finally handle the edges.
Well, at this stage and that's it!
Let's hope that this, perhaps, the most technically difficult part of the work turned out as you imagined it, and it will inspire you to continue!
Author - Dmitry Kopilov
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Pretty tedious, time-consuming and long process - finishing body cover. Unlike the deck will always be visible, the perception of the model depends on its execution. Pits, bugs are not allowed. All belts must be smooth. Anyone, even a small break, spoils the impression, so you need to strive for perfection!
So, as I had it. At the very beginning, I wanted to make the separation of flower trees. Perhaps this is the most difficult way that you can imagine ...
We put the housing on the horizontal surface. I had to lift my nose - I had a differential about 15 mm. Stangel reysmus blackwide.
Then we divide the underwater part into two halves. I took the last belt that is not passing through the waterline. The line turned out quite complicated. Removed the sizes from the lateral projection, the flight-reysmus marked the checkpoints, then a rack with a rack clips on them was fastened.
All smoothly!
We put this detail, keel and ahtersterene. Kiel is just a bar with a margin for processing. Experience shows that during the trim, it suffers significantly. We make an exemplary plating markup. "Losses" is not, but the board on the face of 5 mm wide, narrows to the nose to 2.5-3 mm and expands to the feed up to 6-7 mm. We put two lower belts.
Last time, all the rails sparkled and bent on the iron. This time I used a hairdryer. It is not necessary to unpack, the tree is dry, and the edge does not suffer. We put a geoline belt. Begins to fill the bottom.
The main complexity is to embed every belt every belt. It consists of two plates found in the right place (the situation is taken from the drawing).
With the latest boards in the "Sections", of course, difficulties have to customize.
The bottom of the bottom is completed. Nizhny Barhout is installed - a hefty rack of a width of 7 and a thickness of 3 mm. Become - then even happiness, but the hair dryer coped.
By closing the waterline, outlined it again on the finishing trim. Unnecessary removing.
Side view. Waterlinia at side view horizontal.
And now the most difficult thing begins. Color separation. Since I make the casing (prey the joints of the boards), the feeling of one board painted in different colors. The main trick is to go up.
Black Grab has plenti mass. Easily bends, boiled and black, with an interesting texture. But dirt from him ...
It turned out even better than I expected.
I remember, several days could not break away from contemplating such beauty (Gee-Gey).
In the nose of the belts less, but due to their strong seasure of the torment there was more.
But everything ever ends.
The board in the area of \u200b\u200bthe ports of special problems was not caused.
It is not always convenient to pin / under the rail.
Stage ended in such a look:
Behind the month of work, and the nailing of the case loomed ahead ...
