There have been different opinions in the history of culture about the ability of clematis to endure winter cold. Some growers argued that overwintering clematis in Russia in open ground impossible. In 1862 V. Ermolaich wrote: “Unfortunately, our climatic conditions lead to the fact that garden clematis growing in England on the ground can be brought up only in greenhouses and have neither the strength of development, nor the usefulness of application, which they reach in Western Europe ”.
According to others, “it is possible to grow clematis in the garden, but only with strong covering for the winter” (Klinge J., 1883; Vaigla A., 1982).
Modern florists have proven that clematis, with proper (deep) planting, can be grown even without shelter for the winter of the northern regions.
With proper agricultural technology, plants ripen well by autumn, harden and winter well under light shelter.
To establish winter hardiness and frost resistance in the Baltic (Latvia) conditions, clematis were left without shelter for the winter for two years in a row. The following results were obtained: all shoots overwintered without frost damage in A. alpina L., A. sibirica L., C. serratifolia Rehd., C. vitalba L. varieties, in Fargesioides, Jeanne d "Arc, Miss Bateman varieties; upper part shoots (1-1.2 m above the soil) froze in varieties Duchess of Edinburgh, Lawsoniana, Yellow Queen; shoots froze to the level of snow, but under the snow all shoots were preserved in many varieties of clematis, for example, Barbara Dibley, Comtesse de Bouchaud, Daniel Deronda, Lasurstern, Margot Koster, Mrs. Cholmondeley, Nelly Moser, The President, Victoria, etc. In a small part of clematis, shoots died under the snow, but the bushes grew from dormant buds in the center of tillering. These are Ernest Markham varieties, Gipsy Queen, Star of India, Madame Baron Veillard, Marie Boisselot, Venosa Violacea.
Clematis that grew near the walls of the house were even less damaged by frost.
The least frost-resistant shoots are in clematis of the third pruning group, that is, in which flowers develop on the shoots of the current year and which are recommended to be cut in the fall. At the same time, frost does not cause any harm to the plants, but works instead of the gardener.
The shoots of the varieties of the first pruning group, in which flowers develop on the shoots of the previous year, are relatively frost-resistant and hibernate without much damage. If last year's shoots are damaged by frost, the shoots of the current year bloom, but only a little later.
As you can see, frost is not particularly dangerous for clematis. The main thing is to preserve the center of tillering, then the plant renews itself well and blooms annually.
Before sheltering clematis for the winter, it is useful to remember that frost is not always their enemy. It is beneficial, as it contributes to the death of pests, improving the structure of the soil, and the transition of plants to deep dormancy.
At a temperature of about 0 ° C, nutrients from the leaves and the upper part of the shoots pass into the buds, so there is no need to rush to cut the leaves and shoots early in the fall. When the temperature drops to - 2 ... - 5 ° C, the water content in the cells decreases, the activity of physiological processes decreases, which is characteristic of the dormant period. If the climatic conditions are favorable before winter hardening, then the wintering of clematis goes well.
To preserve nutrients in plants for the winter in late autumn, it is advisable to stop their flowering and growth, which must be foreseen even during the growing season - to fertilize correctly, cut off, remove fruits in time, pinch growing shoots in autumn, etc.
Before sheltering, it is important to take into account the frost resistance of different varieties of clematis. Although there is no data on this, there are isolated observations, which are outlined below. According to M.A. Beskaravaynaya et al. (1978, 1982), without damaging the tissues and buds of the shoots C. glauca Willd, C. heracleifolia DC., C. ligusticifolia Nutt., C. serratifolia Rehd., C. virginiana L .; from -23 to -25 ° C - C. songarica Bunge., C. asplenifolia Schrenk., C. brevicaudata DC., C. fruticosa Turez., C. isphahanica Boiss., C. tangutica (Maxim.) Korsh., cultivar Jackmanii; from -17 to -19 ° C - C. flammula L., C. orientalis L., C. vitalba L., C. viticella L., varieties Splash of the Sea, Fargeziodes. According to the observations of the aforementioned authors, in Yalta, clematis freely tolerate frosts from -14 to -15 ° C without damage.
In the conditions of the Moscow region, clematis, according to S.S.Osipov (1980), without shelter in 1975/76 and 1976/77. endured frosts of -30.2 and -25.5 ° C. All clematis and atragenes overwintered well: A. alpina L., A. sibirica L., C. brevicaudata DC., C. fusca Turcz., C. serratifolia Rehd., C. tangutica (Mahim.) Korsh., C. vitalba L., C. viticella L., cv. Jackmanii. Only the shoots were partially frozen (up to the -level of snow or to the base of the bush).
Before sheltering, clematis bushes are pruned, depending on the pruning group. If it is unknown, leave part of the shoots 40-60 cm high.To get rid of fungal diseases, it is necessary to remove the leaves and dead parts of old or sick
shoots at the base of the bush. The root collar can be sprinkled with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid, 2% ferrous sulfate, or covered with sand, to which ash can be added (250 gn bucket of sand), until the soil is frozen. Shoots are sprayed and bent down. You can dig in the shoots in a shallow (5-8 cm) groove, cover them with sand and soil (as when propagating by layering). You can spread the shoots on the soil surface by placing spruce branches under them and on top. This will prevent the bushes from being damaged by mice. In addition, the needles produce phytoncides and do not cake. In areas with constant snow cover, shoots only bend down. In the Baltic States, where thaws are observed several times during the winter, the shoots are covered with dry peat, sawdust or other material and covered with plastic wrap. With such a shelter, the buds do not freeze out, they germinate more amicably in the spring, the shoots bloom abundantly and early.
Varieties belonging to the groups Jackmanii, Viticella, Recta and others overwinter well, where it is not necessary to preserve last year's shoots. Hilling the root collar with soil (20-30 cm) protects the buds from freezing, but it is better to use dry peat or sawdust for this, although even naked clematis rarely freeze out (only 3 bushes died during the 20-year observation period).
Often, flower growers remove the shoots from the supports or make such supports that can be lowered to the ground with all the shoots, cover them on top with a film and leave them until spring. If the leaves are not infected fungal diseases as it was at the beginning of the development of culture, this method is quite acceptable. Otherwise, spores from fallen leaves will contaminate the soil or mulching material. In spring, spores germinate and infect young shoots. In mid-July or early August, the leaves turn yellow, the shoots wither. To prevent this from happening, the fallen leaves must be removed and burned in the fall.
For clematis, waterlogging of the soil in winter is more dangerous than low temperatures... At the same time, anaerobic conditions are created in the soil, which makes it difficult for the roots to breathe. But the mechanical effect of ice, which breaks the roots and destroys the center of tillering, is much more dangerous for plants during overwintering. In the Baltics, this was observed in the winter of 1985/86. Then the earth was deeply frozen; in spring, after frequent thaws during the day and night frosts, a thick layer of ice formed over the soil even under cover. As a result, the lower part of the shoots and the center of clematis tillering were mechanically damaged. But even in such extreme conditions a very small number of the weakest plants (about 0.8%) died completely. For a fairly large part (about 30%), growth began 2 weeks later. Growth was delayed for a whole month in 18% of plants, and only 0.3% of plants began to grow only in the middle of summer. Despite the fact that the tillering centers were severely destroyed, the bushes grew back again. But it took 0.5 to 2 months to recover the lost vegetative organs. The rest of the plants (48%), which were little exposed to ice, grew and bloomed normally. Microrelief in clematis plantations should also help protect plants from excessive soil moisture in winter. To do this, make a slight slope for water drainage or fill in ridges.
Correct deep planting, when the center of tillering is at a depth of 8 to 15 cm, protects it from frost. This is also facilitated by mulching the soil above the roots of clematis (8-15 cm).
Frequent thaws in winter lead to a violation of the dormant period. Sometimes, in a warm, long autumn, shoots 5-10 cm long grow from the buds. They usually die in winter. And although the plants sprout reserve buds in spring, from which new shoots are formed, flowering will be weak and late.
As spring approaches, the deep dormant period gradually ends, and frost resistance decreases. Therefore, in the spring, the plant must be gradually freed from the shelter: first, the plastic wrap is removed, then the substrate layer. The lapnik or part of the peat must be left until the end of the night frost period. Then they carefully raise the shoots and evenly distribute them on the supports, level the soil over the center of tillering, leaving a layer of 5-8 cm.If the shelter is left before the onset of warm weather, the buds quickly start to grow, but the developed shoots become etiolated and, after removing the shelter, they easily die from direct sunlight, wind and change of night and day temperatures.
Night frosts above 5 ° C can damage young shoots. If only their ends are damaged, instead of one shoot, even two are formed, but flowering is two weeks late. Correct overwintering and shelter removed on time are the key to a successful start of a new growing season.
With the ending summer season the moment comes for the shelter of heat-loving plants. Clematis are no exception to the general list. It is extremely necessary to "conjure" over them, since the vine (this is how the name of the flower is translated from Greek) is from southern Europe and can hardly endure the harsh climate, and warming flowers for the winter helps them withstand unfavorable conditions. Our article is devoted to what to do before the shelter, when and how to properly cover and take off the cover in time.
Video: preparing clematis for winter - pruning and shelter
Cletimas are divided into 3 large groups according to the method of shelter and pruning:
Interesting! Clematis of the first group are sometimes even referred to as "princes" (the closest relatives of clematis).
Actual question! How to determine the variety if you do not know which one grows in your summer cottage.
You just need to conduct an experiment: in the fall, cut off all the shoots by 1-1.5 meters, put them on the ground and cover them with something. And on next year you will need to carefully monitor how the buds will awaken, on which shoots they will bloom (or not).
- If a buds are preserved on the stems and then of them shoots went and bloomed- this is second group.
- If a kidneys are not preserved- this is third group... Their flowers are formed on new shoots that grow almost from the very root.
Video: pruning and sheltering clematis for the winter
The time to shelter clematis for the winter comes with the onset of subzero temperatures: 0 ... -2 degrees. Moreover, it is advisable to do this after the leaves have dried up (and this will happen precisely after the first frosts), because it is not very rational to cut and cover the leaves with green, they can still feed the plant.
Advice! If frosts do not come, then you can do preparatory work: remove from the support, tie, tilt and pin, prepare (buy) a shelter. And as soon as the cold weather sets in, you just have to cover directly.
If it is very humid, then you should wait until the rains end, the plant dries up, and then cover it.
Thus, the approximate timing of the shelter of clematis in the middle lane (Moscow region) is the second half of October, similarly in the Leningrad region. They are insulated 1-2 weeks earlier in Siberia and the Urals. But in warm southern regions, the procedure usually begins in the second half of November.
It is necessary not only to cover the clematis in time, but also to open the shelter in a timely manner. As a rule, this is done with the onset of positive temperatures (when the snow has completely melted), that is, somewhere in the middle of spring (in April). Moreover, the shelter is not removed immediately, but gradually, so that the plant gets used to it. First of all, of course, it will be necessary to get rid of the bushes.
Important! If you used to waterproof the shelter film, then you need it shoot as early as possible.
The method of sheltering clematis is similar, that is, an air-dry shelter is needed.
Important! Some cover clematis only with leaf litter and / or even drop it with earth (huddle), but because of such a "wet" shelter, clematis can dry out in a relatively warm climate. It's another matter if you have snowless and / or harsh winters.
Important! It is actually not necessary to cover the clematis of the 3rd pruning group, unless you can put spruce branches or other branches on them, or spud them.
Step-by-step instructions for sheltering clematis for the winter:
Note! If you have very harsh and / or snowless winters, then you should additionally spud the base of the bush(root collar), filling it 30-40 cm, for example, dry compost or ordinary garden soil, but it is better to use a mixture of river sand and.
In the event that even the upper part freezes out, the lower part of the bush, the buds of which were underground, will surely remain and will grow in spring.
By the way! Many advise to lay 1-2 groups of clematis on the ground, twisting them in a ring, because it is much easier to cover this way. But it is better not to do this (or twist it very carefully), because the stems of the plant are quite fragile and can break easily.
Advice! Fallen and broken branches of spruce branches can always be found in the forest, or you can ask neighbors who cut their spruces and pines.
As a rule, the above design is quite enough, but if you are afraid that your clematis may suffer due to excessive humidity or excessive cold and temperature changes, then you can additionally:
A huge number of flower growers successfully cover clematis and other plants with a film, but no fewer summer residents believe that under the film the plant can simply mate.
However, it is worthwhile to understand that it is the film that prevents excess moisture from getting in in the fall, and after all, it is precisely from the moisture that the plants vomit. Therefore, in spring, together with the onset of positive temperatures, the film is quickly removed.
Note! If you cover clematis from above with a film, then you must definitely leave air vents (holes) on both sides for airing.
A rather atypical shelter for clematis with a film can be done as follows:
Due to the fact that a film is laid from below, the sawdust will not be able to dampen (soil moisture will not get), and from above, thanks to the board (slate), sedimentary moisture will not get inside the shelter.
Video: clematis shelter
To preserve thermophilic clematis in a harsh and little snowy winter, it is necessary to use a shelter. In order to use it correctly, you need to know the optimal terms of insulation, what to do before the shelter, when to remove it in a timely manner, which structures are most suitable for clematis. Having understood the peculiarities of this very important event, you will certainly be able to grow a surprisingly beautiful waterfall of these flowers.
It is worth remembering! If you covered your clematis, and they still do not bloom for the next year (for example, 1 or 2 groups of a pruning group), this does not mean that you have not insulated them enough. After all, flowering depends not only on wintering. Soil composition, watering, feeding are also extremely important.
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Clematis are favorites among garden vines. Delightfully large flowers, graceful shoots and bright greens make them stand out against the background of any exotic and the most magnificent partner. Clematis will not be lost even against the backdrop of magnificent climbing roses, and largely due to their self-sufficiency, they became their main partners. But no matter how beautiful clematis are, many refuse to grow talented steeplejacks because of their capriciousness. The difficulties of growing clematis are associated not only with care, but also with the need to carefully prepare them for winter. Clematis can endure the conditions of the middle strip only if a reliable shelter is created. And for different clematis, it is created according to different rules.
Clematis. © dobbies
Preparation of clematis for winter begins in August. If the care is not adjusted in time and the necessary measures are not taken, then the magnificent steeplejacks simply will not have time to prepare for the future cold weather.
The main steps for caring for clematis of the preparatory period include the following steps:
The need for clematis for pruning in the fall is determined by the type of flowering and the characteristics of specific varieties:
There is no unequivocal opinion whether it is worth separating the second and third types of clematis in pruning. Firstly, there are many exceptions among certain varieties of clematis groups. Secondly, in fact, almost all clematis, which are ranked among the species that bloom only on last year's branches, actually bloom on both overwintered and young shoots - after they ripen in the second half of the season, flowers bloom on them (although not in that amount). And pruning according to the principle of re-flowering clematis is quite suitable for both groups. But it is generally accepted to distinguish exactly three trimming groups, although the difference between the second and third is insignificant.
Without exception, all clematis need sanitary pruning and cleaning. Regardless of what kind of shoots clematis blooms on and whether formative pruning will be carried out in the fall, on all bushes:
Shelter for clematis for the winter. © Dorling Kindersley Pruning in varieties blooming on the shoots of the current year is not carried out according to the same rules. For representatives of the clematis of the Viticella and Zhakman groups, pruning in the fall is carried out literally on the entire above-ground part, leaving short stumps just above the soil - trimming to the first on the shoots of a real leaf, leaving one pair of strong buds. Clematis of the Integrifolia group, Texas, six-petal, straight and Manchurian, it is better to cut off, leaving not one, but two pairs of buds, to hemp 10-15 cm high.When buying clematis, it is better to clarify what height to leave the hemp, but you can resort to standard pruning on 1-2 pairs of kidneys.
In clematis, which can bloom only on short overwintered shoots, if the crown is not kept for the winter, flowering will not come or will begin very late, at the end of the season, and will be weaker. There is no need to preserve the full length of the branches in these clematis, but pruning is carried out immediately after flowering, and not before winter: the branches are slightly shortened, cutting off the crown, the faded part, stimulating the formation of a powerful growth that will bloom next year. If desired, shoots can be left without pruning at all, but this will affect flowering. As part of pruning before winter, such clematis are only "cleaned".
In very fashionable today varietal large-flowered clematis with repeated flowering, the best clematis of the Patens, Lanuginoza and Florida groups are pruned, but the branches are only slightly shortened, leaving at least 10-15 nodes (pruning at approximately 1-1.5 m). Usually, all shoots are shortened by a third, but it is better to specify the specific parameters and timing of pruning for each plant (sometimes another option is recommended - pruning after each wave by a third of the length of the branches).
Today, the method of partially rejuvenating, or universal pruning is also popular: shoots on any clematis, except for flowering only on the shoots of the current year, can be carried out through one branch, keeping half of the shoots up to 1.5 m in height, and shortening others to a couple of buds.
If you do not know which type of clematis your plant belongs to and what kind of pruning it needs, then it is best to leave it to winter with shoots. Already in the spring, by the fact whether your clematis still has dry whips or after winter there are "live" shoots with buds, you will understand which group of varieties your vine belongs to and how to proceed.
The last step before the actual shelter for the winter for clematis is preventive treatment. It is carried out in October, after the establishment of stable cold weather (after the first frost, but without waiting for stable night frosts). It is advisable to treat the soil at the base of the bush with fungicides that prevent the spread of fungal diseases, and then powder it with wood ash. The classic choice is a solution of 20 g of foundationol for 1 bucket of water. You can do without such treatment, but if you have the opportunity to take action or if the plants were sick before, are in the vicinity of infected crops, then the above simple measures will help to avoid problems in the future.
The modern assortment of clematis is so large that one should not rely only on general information in matters of winter hardiness of a particular plant. When buying, be sure to check the degree of endurance of a particular variety and the shelter it requires. Even some of the classic varieties may surprise you unpleasantly. This information must be clarified. An important role in the endurance of clematis is played by the region of cultivation, their acclimatization, adaptation to a specific climate. Seedlings that you do not purchase from local nurseries and garden centers, even with a high base endurance, can suffer from frost in your area. A very simple pattern is characteristic of clematis: the more "complex" flowers a variety has, the less often it occurs and the more "elite" it is, the worse it winters and the more reliably it needs to be covered. Specific clematis are more hardy than varietal ones, and old varieties are more winter-hardy than new ones. For growing in regions with harsh winters, it is better to choose clematis that bloom early or in the middle, and not late varieties (they simply do not have time to ripen before the cold weather arrives). In the middle lane, clematis blooming on the shoots of the current year (Vititsella, Zhakman and Integrifolia groups) and non-double varieties (in double flowers, only a few flowers correspond to the standard, and even then, provided that last year's shoots are preserved for the winter under cover), perform better. Subject to careful shelter, varieties that are more suitable for the south can also overwinter, but in this case it is better to try to buy plants that have already been adapted to your region.
Preparing clematis for winter shelter. © Housewreck What kind of shelter clematis will need is directly influenced by the pruning of the plant and the type of flowering. Clematis, which are pruned for the winter to the level of the soil or short stumps, need not very simple, but only hilling. But the species and varieties in which shoots need to be preserved require a completely different approach. For such clematis, the shelter actually resembles a shelter for climbing roses, with the creation of a full-fledged air-dry protection. Species clematis are usually covered in the same way as clematis blooming on the shoots of the current year.
Clematis, despite all the stereotypes, do not so much need protection from frost as from moisture. These are some of the most sensitive to winter waterlogging and heating. garden plants, the shelter of which should be not just insulating, but dry. It should protect the rhizome and shoots, if they are left for the winter, from precipitation, melt water, any possible wetting of the base of the bush and the surface of the soil around the clematis, as well as icing as a result of contrasts between night frosts and periods of thaw during the day (the bushes literally break apart, completely destroyed center of tillering and roots).
Shelter terms for clematis are very strictly limited. And you need to focus not on specific calendar periods at all, but on the air temperature. It is finally possible to cover clematis only when the process of soil freezing begins, the air temperature drops to 5-6 degrees of frost. In normal autumn, clematis are sheltered only in November. But we are talking precisely about the main measures for wrapping. It is better to start preparing in advance, back in October. As soon as the first night frosts pass, the bushes are spud up to a height of about 10-15 cm. With such light protection, stable frosts are expected, with the arrival of which they carry out a full-fledged shelter. Please note that you can only cover clematis on dry, fine days.
With proper shelter, not too early, with protection from moisture, clematis can withstand frosts down to minus 45 degrees. Even if clematis falls out after winter and does not show signs of life, within two to three years you should not rush to remove the rhizome from the soil and throw it away: sometimes dormant vegetative buds on the plant persist even with very severe damage and they need a lot of time to release new shoots ... Sometimes clematis come to life after a few years.
Clematis, from which only short stumps are left for the winter or they are completely cut off the bushes to the soil level, do not need a complex shelter, but hilling. But a modest pouring of soil to the base of the bushes is not enough: the clematis of the Vititsella, Zhakman and Integrifolia groups need to create a large interlayer-mound, which will completely eliminate the risk of getting wet. 3-4 buckets of dry earth or peat are poured to each bush, creating a mound around the bushes with a height of 60 cm. Both humus and compost can be used as hilling materials, but more loose and less warming material is better suited for clematis. In combination with the snow cover, such hilling is quite enough for the complete protection of the vines. If a winter with little snow is issued, then you need to redistribute the snow on the site and add it to the clematis, creating a layer of snow yourself. If there is no snow at all, then it can be replaced with spruce branches.
If the plant is young, with low or doubtful winter hardiness, then after hilling it can be additionally protected with an air-dry shelter by placing a box on top, covering it with leaves and wrapping it with burlap, roofing material or film.
Even after shortening to a meter in height, the shoots of clematis of the Patens, Florida and Lanuginosa groups will not be so easy to preserve for the winter. These clematis need more serious cover. It is created according to the so-called air-dry method:
Alternative hiding methods:
During periods of prolonged thaw, on warm days, it is advisable to ventilate the shelter for clematis.
Unraveling clematis should be done as soon as warm weather sets in, even if stable night frosts remain. Clematis are afraid of damping out and thaws much more than frosts, and the bushes should be provided with access to fresh air as soon as possible. Traditionally, the unraveling of clematis begins in April, and ends only in May. Gradual adaptation is also needed to accustom plants to the sun.
Clematis in the spring. © Racquel
The shelter is removed in several stages, dividing each one into 2-3 days or a week in time. The first stage should be the opening of ventilation holes on warm days; the removal of the film and the top layer of the shelter begins only after the threat of severe night frosts and snow melts disappear. Shields are left for a week after removing the film or roofing material.
Do not rush to remove hilling from the bushes: first let the plants adapt to new conditions, and then remove only part of the peat or soil. Leave a light hitch until the night frost completely disappears.
Planting and caring for clematis in the open field is within the power of even beginners. The popularity of this garden culture in Russia is explained by its endurance, unpretentious care, as well as the variety of varieties, among which there are many frost-resistant, which is especially important when grown in the northern regions of the country. IN landscape design Clematis are used to decorate gazebos, fences or house walls.
Below are photos, features of planting and caring for clematis.
Growing clematis is not that difficult - the procedures for caring for these flowers are the most basic. The main thing when growing clematis: adherence to the recommended planting dates, taking into account the type of soil and the correct selection of the variety. So, for example, for regions with especially severe winters, it is recommended to choose winter-hardy varieties adapted to low temperatures.
Whether or not it is possible to go into open ground in a garden plot also depends on the level of occurrence of groundwater. These flowers do not take root well in places where groundwater are too close to the surface of the earth. The reason for this is the very long roots of clematis, which go to a depth of 1 m and will inevitably rot when planted in open ground in such areas.
Advice! In this case, the flowers are planted on an artificial elevation.
Clematis are categorized according to different criteria. The following classifications are most popular:
The most convenient is the classification of clematis by size.
It is recommended to plant clematis in the spring, otherwise there is a risk that the plants will not have time to take root in the open field. The approximate landing time in central Russia is late April-early May. In doing so, you should focus on local weather and wait for the last frost to pass. When the first buds swell, flowers can be planted.
Clematis cannot be called a capricious garden culture - caring for them is easy, but planting and growing them involves a number of rules, ignoring which is fraught with the fact that the flowers may not take root and die. It is especially important to choose and prepare the right place for planting these plants in the open ground.
The procedure for planting clematis, regardless of the method of reproduction (by seeds, cuttings or dividing the bush), looks about the same:
Clematis grow best when placed in open ground in sunny areas without shading. Equally important is the availability of reliable protection from strong winds. To avoid stagnant water, flowers are planted on a dais.
As for the composition of the soil, planting on permeable, slightly alkaline or neutral soil has a good effect on the development of this horticultural culture.
Important! In no case should this culture be placed on acidic soils.
Only clematis of the small-flowered group is usually propagated by the seed method. Large-flowered varieties should be propagated vegetatively.
The disadvantage of using seeds is the fact that they germinate at different times, which greatly complicates the determination of the timing of transplanting seedlings into open ground. In addition, the very process of growing seedlings is greatly stretched because of this.
When growing clematis from seeds, planting and caring for seedlings is as follows:
Important! The seedling container is installed in a room with low air humidity. The room temperature should be at least + 25 ° С.
With the formation of the first 2-3 leaves, the seedlings dive into hotel containers. Before planting clematis in open ground, they are moved to a greenhouse for 2-3 years. Only then can the flowers be planted in a permanent place in the open ground.
In stores, clematis are sold, as a rule, of two categories: last year (one-year) and two-year. The first group may be doubtful - the seedlings look very small and fragile, even painful, but this is not so. Clematis is a pretty hardy garden crop that is much stronger than it looks. In addition, the price of one-year-old seedlings is lower than that of two-year old.
Before purchasing, you must carefully inspect the planting material. The seedlings should not have mechanical damage and rotten roots.
If the buds of the plants are not sufficiently developed, and the length of the shoots does not exceed 1.5 cm, the seedlings are put back into the package and sprinkled with vermiculite. Then the planting material is placed until mid-March in a refrigerator or cellar with a maximum temperature of + 5 ° C.
Seedlings with large shoots can be planted directly into a container, after which they are placed on a window. It is important to insulate the battery when doing this.
Important! For rooting, clematis needs a temperature of +18 to + 20 ° C.
The procedure for planting clematis of the first year in containers:
After planting, when caring for clematis, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil - it should not be too dry or too wet. It is also recommended to pinch the shoots above the 3rd pair of leaves for better bud maturation.
As soon as the temperature on the balcony or loggia at night reaches + 5 ° C, the containers are transferred there.
Important! In April-March, the glass on the balcony should be shaded to protect the flowers from bright sunlight.
In mid-May, containers with seedlings are dropped on an elevation in the garden. The bottom of the container is cut off and sand or fine gravel is poured under it. The top layer of soil is mulched with grass or compost, and a row of plastic bottles is placed around the container to protect against slugs and bears.
Caring for seedlings is not much different from the previous stage: they are watered moderately, trying not to flood, and pinched.
At the end of July, when the bushes form a full-fledged root system, they are transplanted to a permanent place in open ground. For this, the container is cut obliquely and the lower leaves of the seedlings are removed.
Important! All clematis of the first year of planting must be cut off to 2-4 pairs of buds in the fall.
The distance between clematis when planting should be at least 1 m. It is important to place the bushes at some distance from the walls of houses and fences.
Cultivation of clematis in the country involves simple, but regular care, consisting mainly of basic procedures. The best flower development occurs when:
When caring for this horticultural crop, the main thing is moderation. Watering clematis at least 1 time per week. In conditions of prolonged drought, watering is done more often - so that the topsoil does not dry out. Dosage: about 35 liters in water for an adult bush and 15 liters for a young seedling.
Clematis of the first year of planting is restrained. Then the intensity of fertilization increases, especially during the period of foliage formation. For this, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are used, which help the flowers to gain green mass.
With the beginning of flowering, flower care includes fertilizing with phosphorus fertilizers, which replace nitrogen fertilizers. In late autumn, mineral fertilizers are applied to the open ground.
The bushes are tied up without fail, and the support (a wooden peg or metal pipe) must be installed at the planting stage. Subsequent deepening of the support into the ground can damage the flower roots.
The abundance of flowering depends on the correct formation of the shrub, so caring for it involves periodic pruning. Depending on which group the clematis belong to, they are cut in different ways.
The varieties of the 1st pruning group undergo only partial formation during the summer. For the winter, flowers are not cut at all.
After planting clematis of group 2, caring for them includes summer and autumn pruning. In the summer, last year's shoots are removed, in the fall - the branches of the current year. Without such pruning
Varieties of the 3rd group can be cut several times per season for sanitary purposes, removing dried or damaged shoots, but in the fall the bush is cut off almost completely, as indicated in the diagram. Only stumps up to 20 cm long should remain.
In addition, how to properly trim clematis is shown in the following video:
Regardless of the region where clematis is grown, a must-have item for caring for these flowers is to shelter plantings for the winter. Before the onset of cold weather, the bushes are cut off, removed from the support and laid on the ground. Then caring for the plants is reduced to hilling with sand or ash by 20 cm at will and installing protection: dry spruce branches or plastic wrap, under which peat is placed. It can be replaced with sawdust.
You can learn more about planting clematis in open ground and subsequent care from the video below:
Clematis do not bloom in the first year after planting. Flowering with proper care occurs only 3 years after planting. Until this time, the bushes are growing the root system.
Clematis can bloom in spring, summer or fall, depending on the variety.
You can propagate clematis:
Important! When clematis is planted with seeds for seedlings, the varietal qualities of the garden culture may be lost.
The most popular breeding method for clematis is cuttings. The procedure for preparing cuttings is as follows:
Reproduction by layering is carried out in October. In this case, the following scheme is adhered to:
Only young bushes can be divided. It is impossible to separate mature bushes because their root system is too complex. It is hardly possible to untangle and separate the roots without damaging them.
To divide the bush, clematis is dug up in the fall, while maintaining an earthen lump. Each part should have 2-3 buds and the same number of roots.
A distinctive feature of these flowers is immunity to many diseases. Viral infections do not affect clematis at all. Wilt wilting is considered their only vulnerable spot - a fungal disease, which is expressed in the rapid drying of leaves. If the disease is noticed in time, the bush can be saved. To do this, it is sprayed with fungicides. In later stages, the plant must be dug up along with an earthen clod and burned to prevent the spread of infection.
Planting and caring for clematis in the open field does not require much effort. Despite the fact that this garden culture makes rather high demands on the composition of the soil, caring for it is reduced only to regular watering, top dressing, pruning and shelter for the winter, and these are the most basic procedures that even a novice gardener can do.
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Clematis are becoming more and more popular with Russian gardeners. They can be used to decorate nondescript walls, fences and even trees.
When growing flowers in regions with cold climates, you need to take care of preparing them for the winter. The root system of clematis is frost-resistant when correct fit... If you deepen the root collar well, then he can spend the winter under any covering material.
Much more dangerous for clematis, as well as for most plants, thaws and subsequent frosts. In such situations, ice can form in the soil and damage the root system.
Therefore, during preparation for winter, it is necessary not only to protect the bushes from the cold, but also from moisture entering the root system. If the water freezes in the root collar, the plant may die because of this.
With its graceful and to some extent even exotic form, clematis is unpretentious. If you provide him proper care, then it can delight with flowering up to 20 years.
In some cases, gardeners are faced with the problem that clematis does not bloom or freezes out. However, after careful study of the characteristics of the plant, the risk of this is reduced to a minimum.
It should be noted that wild clematis species are capable of blooming at temperatures up to -12 degrees. Therefore, the death or lack of flowering may occur due to violations of agricultural technology. For example, the wrong choice of variety and place for planting, wrong pruning and shelter for the winter.
When choosing a variety and type of clematis, you should pay special attention to the climate. It is especially important what the winters are in your region of residence.
By the timing of flowering, clematis are divided into early, middle and late flowering. They are also divided into groups that bloom on the shoots of last year, the current year and combined (bloom on last year's shoots and fresh growth).
Early and mid-early varieties are more suitable for cultivation in climates with harsh winters. The preference should be given to species that bloom mainly on the shoots of the current year.
Siberian, Okhotsk and Alpine are species that are able to endure wintering even in cold climates without shelter. These clematis bloom in small flowers on last year's shoots.
The following varieties are suitable for growing in temperate climates:
These varieties bloom twice a year. For the first time on last year's shoots, and the second - at the end of summer on young shoots. This is precisely why their popularity among gardeners is due. If last year's shoots are frozen, flowering will be on a young growth.
Clematis species from the Viticella, Jackmani and Lanuginoza groups, as well as varieties that bloom exclusively on last year's shoots, are preferable to grow in a mild climate. Even so, they need shelter. After all, the preservation of last year's shoots is a prerequisite for abundant flowering.
Not many people know that it is possible to partially protect clematis from frost even during planting. To do this, it is necessary to deepen the neck of the plant by 10 - 12 cm. If the plant is young or weakened, then by 8 - 10 cm.
1 trimming group
This group includes varieties of clematis that bloom on last year's shoots. The most common types and varieties:
When growing plants of this group, annual pruning of shoots is not carried out. After flowering, only those parts on which the seeds are formed are removed. If the plant is too thick, then the weakest branches are cut to the base. In this case, young shoots will grow in their place.
The varieties of this group are most common in central Russia. The bush hibernates without shelter directly on the support. All that needs to be done is to huddle the base of the bush. They do this so that in the event of the death of last year's shoots from the root collar, the branch branches again. It is necessary to huddle to a height of 30 - 40 centimeters. You can use dry leaves, grass, sawdust, peat or humus for this.
2 trimming group
This pruning group includes plants that bloom on both young shoots of the current year and last year. The most common varieties are Lanuginoza and paniculate varieties. On last year's shoots, flowering occurs in late May - early June. More abundant flowering begins from July to autumn on young shoots.
These groups are trimmed in two stages. The first time the pruning is done in the summer. To do this, cut off the faded part of the plant. If the bush is thick, then last year's shoots are cut to the ground. In the fall, parts of the shoots with seeds are cut off at the growth of the current year.
If spring bloom is not expected, then you can cut the shoots to the base. If in the spring they want to get abundant flowering, then they are pruned to the first leaf. This type of trimming is called combined trimming.
Plants of the second group should be prepared more carefully for the winter. First, you need to cut the branches at a height of 1 - 1.5 m. Remove dry leaves and remove the plant from the support. At the same time, try not to damage the whip.
The next step is to cover the base of the bush to a height of 40 cm with dry grass, leaves, peat or just earth. Next, twist the lashes with a ring and lay them on the ground. Top up the plants again with dry leaves or grass.
The cover should be completed with a two-fold lutrasil. With this approach, the plant winters well even in severe frosts.
3 trimming group
The third group includes plants that bloom exclusively on young shoots. The most common varieties of this group are Integrifol, Vititsella, Zhakman, Virginia clematis.
Clematis of this group bloom from July to September. Pruning this group of plants is the easiest. Before shelter for the winter, all shoots are cut to the base.
In the spring, it is imperative to prune dead and weak shoots. In this case, the bush will be strong and feature abundant flowering.
Clematis of the third group hibernates well even without shelter. But if the winters are too harsh, then after pruning (15 - 20 cm), the bushes should be covered with dry leaves, peat or earth.
Many gardeners are interested in the question - what kind of winter awaits them and the plants. If you are careful, you can predict this. There are a small number of signs that in most cases come true:
The cover of clematis bushes should be moderate. If they are wrapped too tightly, there is a risk of their death due to lack of ventilation.
They can also wither away due to the high humidity and warm temperature of the air and soil in the spring. Therefore, the shelter should be removed gradually, layer by layer. Bushes should be cleared of cover when the threat of frost has passed.
If everything is done correctly, the wintering of plants will be easy and they will delight you with abundant flowering.
