The main tool of a home radio amateur is a soldering iron. Unlike other appliances, it cannot simply be placed on a table (workbench) during operation. Why? Right! He is hot. Therefore, you will need a special stand.
There are a lot of various devices on sale, from a simple holder to a whole complex called soldering station.
In most cases, a soldering iron is needed to perform urgent repair work. If you are not a professional "homemade" - the tool usually gathers dust in a box on the balcony, appearing once or twice a year. In such cases, many use the first object that comes across as a stand.
However, if you put in quite a bit of effort, a hand-made soldering iron stand will look no worse than a factory one. Especially if you regularly make electrical circuits.
In old Radio magazines, you can find drawings on how to make a stand with an economical load switch.
The design is simple, but convenient and effective. If you don’t want troubles with contacts, we make a simple functional stand. Again, from the experience of Soviet radio amateurs.
Initially, I wanted to make something simple, namely a soldering iron holder with a temperature controller, since the soldering iron overheated, but once I started, I could not stop. He made all the necessary adaptations gradually, and therefore every time new ideas arose.
So, we need:
Material:
Chipboard board;
Bolts of different diameters;
Screws, self-tapping screws;
Nut-Lamb (10 pcs.);
Crocodiles (3 pcs.);
Door hinge (1 pc.);
Unnecessary flashlight;
3 motors (2 from the printer, 1 weaker from the typewriter);
4 LEDs (3.5 volts);
5 switches;
Collet;
Small sharpening nozzle (from the set for the engraver);
Helium paste (adapter for nozzle);
wires;
soldering iron;
3 corrugated tubes (from a gas lighter);
Cigarette case;
Tin coil;
Power socket;
Door knob;
4 meters of cable;
2 power supplies (from a 5-volt phone charger and a 9-volt router);
Self-adhesive film, edge;
Black paint;
Tool:
soldering iron;
Glue gun;
Chisel;
Metal scissors.
So, let's begin
We take a chipboard board, mark it out and cut it out in an L-shape, the dimensions are attached.
At a specially selected place, we mark and cut out holes for push-button switches (4 pcs.).
In order to conveniently place our devices, and they could be adjusted, double L-shaped levers were made, cut out of tin, for each individually.
The cheapest soldering iron stand was bought.
And now we will refine it!
It was decided to make 2 crocodile holders, for this we drill 2 holes on the sides, take a steel wire, and push it through the bottom.
Next, we bring the ends to the top, level them flush with each other, bend them so that they look solid? we take 2 corrugated tubes taken from a gas lighter, put it on a wire, and then we attach a crocodile on each side, and also drill a hole in the saucer in order to screw it tightly to the surface of the board, as a result we get.
We make the third vertical crocodile, bend it in this way.
It is attached to the bottom of the stand.
It was decided to make a mini drill, as well as a sharpener for small parts. For this, 2 unnecessary motors were taken from the printer.
A sharpening nozzle was attached to the motor, using an adapter from a helium pen. The motor itself was fixed to the found metal mold, in this way so that it can stand upright.
In order to be able to work at night, we make lighting from an unnecessary flashlight, in my case of this type.
We remove the excess, and leave only the part with the LED.
In order for the lantern to move up and down, an adapter (cap) was taken, a through hole was drilled, a long bolt was inserted, holders were cut out, and everything was clamped with a wing nut, in this way.
Sometimes you have to work in hot weather, so I wanted to add such a nice little thing as a fan. We take the most common motor and make a case for it. The broken charger from nokia was optimally sized. We cut off the plug, take out the core and cut out a place for the motor.
The wires were soldered, assembled it looks like this.
In order to be able to solder small elements, we take a magnifying glass, remove the excess and make a backlight using 4 LEDs of 5 volts each, and fasten it with a glue gun.
We cut out two plates, bend them in the form of a slingshot, drill, and thread a long bolt, this is how it all looks.
We fix to the body of our mini drill, in this way.
In order for the stand to be used anywhere, add 4 meters of cable and the usual door handle, for its winding.
Drill 2 holes for the fork.
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We drill 4 holes for fastening, we make partitions.
We put together everything you need.
We make the main holder for the soldering iron, handle and tip.
We cut out 2 plates, bend them, fasten them to the door hinge, and from below to the board itself.
The door hinge is needed so that when unwinding the cable, we can remove the soldering iron to the side, and it does not interfere with us.
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Since the soldering iron overheated a lot, and it was almost impossible to solder, it was decided to make a temperature controller, after looking at the diagrams, etc., I decided that it would be easier to buy an inexpensive dimmer (dimmer) of this type.
Having disassembled it, and cut out a place for the board in the board, brought 2 wires to the bottom, left one half of the case, and drilled a hole in the middle for the regulator wheel.
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Attached to board with 2 screws.
I'll post the wiring diagram below.
In order to be able to work in one place, as well as for convenience, we put an outlet, which makes it possible to connect a glue gun, phone charger, etc. things.
We make such a delivery, where you can put a jar of flux, or something else. Cut out of an old watch case.
When all the fixtures are ready and painted black, glue the self-adhesive film onto the surface of the board. Was chosen light color, since all the details are clearly visible on such a surface, the side faces are glued with an edge.
A little backstory. Long wanted do normal stand for soldering iron but didn't know where to start. Recently, I came across a lid (I don’t remember exactly why), which had been in the box for a long time.
She gave me the idea for the design.
To make the stand I used:
- "unknown" cover (stand);
- plywood;
- wooden bead;
- self-tapping screws;
- nails;
To begin with, I removed everything superfluous from the lid.
On the sides were left "tongues" that will play the role of fasteners.
Next, 3 planks were cut out of plywood. Since the bottom of the lid is not even, a substrate was sawn out for convenient attachment to the base. 
From three sawn boards:
I drilled holes in the tongues. After that, I screwed two identical planks onto the screws.
In order to prevent the flux jars from falling through, a small plank was cut out of plywood, two small glazing beads were sawn to the plank.
I nailed this plank to the base with carnations, placing sawn glazing beads under it.
A partition was cut out of tin into a lid. From the tin that was cut off from the lid, I bent the stand on which the soldering iron will lie. The partition was screwed to the base with screws through the holes in the cover. The stand was screwed to the board without holes.
Under the plank on which the soldering iron will lie down, I sawed out 2 glazing beads and nailed them to the studs.
I placed a sponge in the part of the lid with a partition. Cellulose sponge for washing dishes. Sponges that are sold specifically for cleaning soldering tips are no different from cellulose sponges for washing dishes, only in size and price. Sponges for dishes are much larger in size, and cheaper in price. This sponge was bought at a hardware store for 30 rubles.
The lower part was removed from the sponge. I also cut it to fit the lid.
The topic of soldering iron stands is quite well disclosed on our website. How is my stand different from others? — I tried to make it as compact, convenient and functional as possible. Do you want the same? - Please under the cut!
The main feature of this stand is the built-in regulator. was inconvenient in that he was constantly lost and mixed with another bunch on the table. This one is tightly screwed to the stand, it will never get lost and will not jump around the table.
The new one is better than the old one in that it has smooth adjustment and operation indication. Here is the schematic I used to assemble the controller:
Diode bridge - any that can withstand the mains voltage and the current consumed by the soldering iron. (the formula for calculating the current is Soldering iron power / Mains voltage) A suitable diode assembly or bridge can be pulled out of the input circuit of a computer PSU. Instead of a diode bridge, you can use a diode, then the adjustment range will be from 50 to 100%.
Fuse F1 is desirable, but not required.
Switch S1, S2 - Bipolar toggle switch with middle position. In the middle position, the soldering iron is off and the HL1 LED will not light. In the position indicated in the diagram, the power of the soldering iron is regulated by the trimming resistor R3, in the opposite position of the toggle switch, the current goes directly to the load, bypassing the regulator.
I made all these muddles personally for myself, and it is not necessary to repeat this scheme exactly. Yes, a suitable scheme can be gleaned from there.
Regulator board:
To cover the giblets of the regulator from external influences, I made a plastic case, bent the edges with a technical hair dryer:
We figured out the electronic filling of the regulator, now we move on to creating the nodes of the stand itself.
In order not to lose various small items and store solders, I made a small box of tin, the corners of which for strength:
The soldering iron stop itself is, in my opinion, the most successful design. In order for the soldering iron to hold well in such an emphasis, when inserting it, its center line should be below the stop horns.
When soldering, a fixture is often needed, but you don’t always need to clutter up the table with such fixtures - just attach a crocodile clip to the stand, which is fixed with a screw:
To clean the soldering iron tip, I use a metal sponge for washing dishes, which will be located in a box with edges made under it:
Stand base - Rectangular chipboard:
Milled recess for rosin:
I crumbled rosin from a jar into the recess and warmed it up building hair dryer not to fall asleep:
We begin to attach the above nodes to the base, further commenting is unnecessary:
The fixing of the main nodes is completed.
To prevent the stand from rolling on the table, reverse side glued rubber rounds:
Well, so that everything would be according to Feng Shui, we glue identification badges on the regulator body:
In the process of working with a soldering iron, a special stand is required. The soldering iron cannot simply be left on a table or some other surface. In this capacity, as a rule, any object suitable in the house is used. If you try a little, you can make a stand for a soldering iron yourself. Such a device will cost less and will be adapted to the needs of the master.
How to make a stand for a soldering iron with your own hands? To make it, first of all, it is necessary to make a stable base from a material that does not conduct heat well. The following tools and materials are required for work:
A rectangular blank is cut out of a chipboard sheet, the sides are sanded with sandpaper, rounding the corners. Next, four rubber legs are made, which can be cut from a piece of rubber or a cork from chemical test tubes. The legs are screwed to the base with self-tapping screws.
From long strip iron with pliers bend a hook that serves to install the heating part of the soldering iron. From one edge of the stand, an iron strip with a hook is fixed with bolts. To securely fix the structural elements, you must first drill holes in the chipboard blank.
The holder for the soldering iron pen can be made from any part with a suitable recess . It is bolted to the edge of the music stand. Closer to the heating element, a soldering holder is installed in the same way. To do this, use a metal plate from old radio components or other consumables.
At the place of soldering, you can melt a piece of tin, which is heated during operation. Thus, a convenient and versatile device is obtained. Rubber feet give stability to the structure and prevent damage to the surface of the table.
The simplest device can be made from thick wire. It is a conical spring, which is attached to a stable base. A piece of wire, about 30 cm long, is wound around the tool. An eyelet is made at the end for attaching to the stand. For the spring, you can use a thin clothes hanger.
The base is assembled from any suitable item - a tin can, an unnecessary part from household appliances or a piece of plywood, etc. Beforehand, a hole is drilled in the workpiece, where a spring is attached with a bolt.
In another version of the design, rectangular holders with recesses for a soldering iron are made from wire using pliers. They are fixed on both sides to the base of chipboard or wooden block. The soldering machine can be equipped with containers for tin or rosin, a box for storing small parts, which is glued with special glue.
Stand for soldering iron with a magnifying glass. To make it more convenient to work with small parts, a special stand with a flexible holder (“third hand”) is installed on the stand. With it, you can fix various equipment: a magnifying glass, a backlight and other tools. The holder is fixed with hinges, which allows you to rotate the device in different directions. All parts of the holder are made of metal elements to ensure the stability of the structure.
To work, you will need a cover from a computer power supply and the following tools:
We mark with a marker the approximate dimensions of the workpiece on the parts from the computer (width 60 mm, height 35 mm). A stand is cut out according to the marks made, then recesses are made on the sides, where the tool is installed. For safe work sharp edges of the product are processed with a file or sandpaper. Thus, a homemade stand for a soldering iron can be made in 15 minutes.
A mobile device can be made from a computer power supply. Such a device is a box or case, inside which there are compartments for soldering, rosin, a clip for circuits and other small parts. The wire holder is attached from the outside, it easily folds over the top of the pencil case.
The product is easy to manufacture and does not require special materials. For holders, fuse sponges are used, which are mounted on a base made of a wooden block or textolite. The distance between the holders is set according to the size of the soldering tool. The fuses are screwed using self-tapping screws into pre-drilled holes.
If you urgently need a soldering iron, you can quickly make a stand out of screws or nails. Nails are driven crosswise into the wooden base. This design is quite stable and holds the tool well.
To make a homemade stand for a soldering iron, you do not need special knowledge or skills. For work, improvised materials are often used, which can be found in any home. Handmade devices are simple and easy to use.
