The ever-dioral question is - how and from what to do water? - Surely at least once puzzled everyone. And no one will give a unambiguous answer to it. Water in the diorama, in contrast to other objects, it seems to me, does not tolerate a compromise - it is as a result or similar, or not. Middle can not. As can not be the only correct technological solution to this task - after all, a puddle, a waterfall, ocean surf, quiet creek, a mountain river is all water in their innumerable and excellent manifestations. This problem needs to be addressed every time.
I will tell you how the water imitated in a particular case. For something else, this decision will be useless, but I will be glad if it helps someone and pumps new thoughts and finds.
The intention of the Diorama lay on the surface - there was a great dragon set " Marine Cotes"There was a Dragon LSSC boat. What else remained to do - of course, disembarking ashore. Enough for a simple plot, but for completeness I wanted to fill the composition with a breathtaking mood. I decided to create the effect of silence - in the literature, movies more than once there is a mention that leaving the jungle to the operation, members of the groups observed silence using the gesture language. This determined small alterations of figures. What needs to do water is clear, but what to do it? Probably, too, quiet, calm, splashing at the side of a swaying boat.
Of all the materials I have had, the most approached epoxy resin. But experiments with its traditional use (and naturally, traditional shrinking meniscus around the perimeter and widespread bubbles) were not pleased. But who said that it should be a surface, and not with an invalid of imitated water? If there are excellent epoxies from epoxy, why it is impossible to cast water as a detail "down face" into the modeled shape. The material for the form served as an aluminum foil. I used a clean plate for offset printing, (it is used as a form in printing machines, you can buy it in stores selling consumables for printing). The size of the sheet is enough for a full diorama, and about similar quality Surface, evenness and thickness of the metal can only be dreaming.
First, you need to draw on the foil contour of the diorama, the Abris of the coastline and the "stain" of the boat. To do this, you need to make a template in a sheet of cardboard - the cross section of the vessel body on the waterline. It is desirable as accurately as possible that the body is clearly tight and without gaps entered this pattern. All parts are below the waterline forming negative angles, you need to delete.
Plate is too hard, so it must be burned over the flame gas stove. An impeded sheet (in the size of the reservoir on the diorama plus the allowance of several centimeters to the side) I placed on a substrate consisting of a piece of chipboard and folded in several layers tight fabric. On the perimeter, I secured this "sandwich" by rails, britched by cloves to the chipboard.
Now and comes the creativity in its pure form. To create a relief, I used the entire range of spoons available in the kitchen. Mainly useful dining and tea. Big, I asked the main rhythm and plastic, the individual waves worked small. From the first time it did not succeed - I fucked, and went over with the depth of the relief and somehow did not "caught" the nature of the waves. So conciseness and once again laconicity. You can now cut the finished form on the intended perimeter and paste the "down face" to the chipboard or phanener - because despite the wavy relief water remains a flat plane. I glued with the "moment" and for the most confidence put on top of the press (book).
After that, it is necessary to cut out of plasticine a side of the side of the coastline and the discovery in which we later insert the boat. In the case of a vessel, it is necessary to do as much as possible and carefully. It is easier to penetrate or cut off the plasticine and spend extra half an hour than a long time and tedious to sharpen an epoxy casting. Smooth sides, I limited glass strips, which brought again with plasticine.
The form is ready for casting, so the surface should be perfectly smooth and clean, because all this will remain on the surface of the water. Since I imitated a muddy tropical river (remember the "apocalypse"?), I did not need the effect of depth, it was enough to convey the color and plastic of dirty water. For castings, I needed two standard EDP sets. The first layer that will create a facial surface, I crawled oil paint. Variating the amount of pigment, you can achieve different transparency. In its own case, I did not strangle. It is better to breed resin with a margin that the first tinted layer completely hid the relief of the waves. In principle, you can fix everything immediately without making a layer.
For every fireman, I reinforced the second layer of casting with sections of fiberglass twine. After polymerization, it is possible to remove the shape and clean the remnants of plasticine with acetone. Now, our accuracy takes place when applying plasticine - let's try to pull the vessel to the water. The gaps may be - how to fix them, I hope it is understood from the picture. The boat must "sit" in water like this.
We will assume that everything turned out and will now not be difficult to include water into the tissue of diorama. To bring water to the condition, you need to make it a glossy surface. This effect I sought a car lacquer - stacked from an aerosol cylinder and blew through the airbrush. It is better to blow up thin layers, giving well to everyone that the varnish is not going to be a puddle in deepening. So that dust did not sit on the wet varnish, it is better to dry up the diorama with a suitable box. The layer as a result was rather big, I was stolen by automotive polishing paste and fixing the polyrolla. Flakes of dirty foam in sides and at the shore I simulated a thick Temper. For the reed I had to drill a lot of holes, it was gone somewhat twisted 0.5 mm, which godlessly broke. But, in my opinion, it's all the little things compared to the final result.
To everyone!
What is special means and how to deal with them?
Vallejo Water Effects. Acrylic product designed to create the foundation of rivers, lakes, bays and oceans. Vallejo. Still Water. Being a dense gel, ideally suitable for imitation of the surface of water on color base Created by means Water Effects.And can also be used to create waterfalls, waves, ripples and ice.
For imitation of water On the prepared surface with a brush, a scraper, a sponge or any other tool, a small layer applied Water Effects. And left for complete drying.
Its drying time depends on the thickness of the applied layer, the humidity of the atmosphere indoors, and can vary from one to several hours.
After the complete drying of the surface on it is an old wide brush applied Still Water. To create a gloss of water, rowani and transparency effect.
The advantages of this product is the simplicity of its use, not toxicity and the ability to mix with acrylic paints To create different shades. However, there are two essential drawbacks such as a great time drying up to 24 hours and a large shrinkage after drying. Therefore, if you want to make pretty deep water, then apply Still Water. It follows several layers.
Vallejo Still Water is simple, but not ideal and if you pay great importance to water on diorama, it is not the best choice. But if you use water in limited quantities and as a minor object, this is a product for you.
About a day Still Water. dries out water on diorama Acquires a transparent and shiny look.
In my opinion, this method is suitable for replacing the model holder on a small area, as on the photo below..
For an alternative to the above, lay out the procedure for making a kind of peculiar stand from the Polish modelist under the "nickname" Arbal.
Let's admit together, and I just comment on every photo ( and almost literal translation from Polish made by AlexShow) :
We prepare a stand by simulating the form of sea waves using mass-milliput. (Epoxy plasticine for modeling - millipot)
Collect modeled waves. I (author - Arbal. ) Mixed paint, various shades of turquoise and gray. Waves, draw in compliance with all the rules of painting miniatures, or pay attention to the shadows and light. Color transitions should not be made perfectly. At the end, in the depth of the effect achieved by using a weak gray shade.
When paint dry, I covered the entire surface Transparent Water Effect (the effect of transparent water).
(We have been considered above the ready-made blue color mixture - alexShow)
Keep in mind not to smear too thick layer, because it can dry for several days! I put 3, 4 mm layer. Currently, this is winter, so I put the stand on the heater to speed up the drying process.
After 8 hours, the effect is absolutely dry.
I applied another layer of transparent water, in the same way as on the third photo. (Before that, he inflicted a dry brush for problematic in his view of white paint - alexshow)
When a height of the second layer:
I made a mixture of white paint with Transparent Water Effect.
The prepared mixture spent in places where water should produce foam. And left for drying.
Digured the side of the stand in black to produce natural contrast. Work is done.
Good day!
I have long been trying to find materials and techniques for creating an aquatic surface, while trying to look for public materials
(including not expensive) and simple technologies available to modelists of any level. Over the past six months, I spent a small experiment and that's what happened.
Many modellers used to use, and many epoxy resins, including EDP (Dzerzhinsk), and similar analogues as imitation of the aqueous surface. For swampy or river water, they can come up, but for a transparent marine or running river, there is no, the whole thing is that these resins turn yellow and darken.
To simulate the surface of the sea or ocean, Vallejo produces color and transparent gels, they are applied with a brush. The price of these jars is approximately 500-600 rubles. Even buying one jar in Barcelona (Spain) the price turned out to be the same as in Yekaterinburg. 
Here is an exemplary result of their use. The base is epoxy resin EMP, the coating of Vallejo gels. As we see the resin after 3 months began to darken, although at the stage of curing was transparent. 
And I wanted to find the material for transparent water. It seems my dream came true - the company "Andrea Miniatures" releases a set of "Artificial Water" 
- The same resin, but transparent, although for the year she slightly gave a yellowish tint, 
But it is not so critical.
Price for 250 gr. I cost 1,500 rubles - I think it is expensive for our brother modelist.
So I continued my searches and came across such resins as optical epoxy glue - compounds for bijourishing brand PEO-510 KE -20/0. There are several varieties, but I took this brand and Czech production to Epoxy 520 at the company. Both two-component (resin and hardener), transparent and sold in any container from 250 gr. up to 200 kg. Price in the area of \u200b\u200b1000-1300 rubles per 1 kg. 
After examining on the company, samples of products made from these resins, I made sure that they do not darken and do not yellow. There are also plastic litea,
Including transparent, but according to the consistency, it is very thick and according to managers of the company, the bubbles without a vacuum chamber will be problematic. For figures, it can and will go, but for the water surface I think there is no.
Arriving home I began to make the layout of the water surface. He took the packaging from the cell phone and used it as a bath. On the bottom laid out a small marine pebble, a few stones and all this sat down with small marine sand. Under the stones put some drying grass, which was supposed to imitate algae. Heat resin up to 40 -50 degrees on a water bath began to add a hardener and a little bit of oil paint, to give the appropriate shade of seawater. After the thin first layer of "painted resin" began to harden, flooded to the edges of the bath already transparent resin without additives. That's what happened: 
For more than three months have passed, but the resin remains transparent. I think for standing water this version of the experiment is suitable.
Further, I wanted to try to reproduce light waves on the surface, for these purposes in the art cabin acquired two types of transparent gels, one IDEA Midium production Italy, another Kristall Gel produced by Germany. Both gel are in one price Basket 350 - 370 rubles. 
The Idea Midium gel when applied with a tassel gives a thinner layer (good for 350 and 72 scales) than Kristall GEL, which is more suitable for waves in 48 and 35 scales. Although with successful use of them, I think you can come to a good result. The photo shows how the gel on the glass lies. 
So at first cover the surface of the Idea Midium gel, so that there would be a light marine ripple: 
After 24 hours, we see this picture: 
After covering the Kristall Gel with a thick layer, due to the fact that the layer turned out to be a really big gel dried throughout three days. In this case, I wanted to see how the gel behaves, if you try to imitate splashes from the rocky waves: 
Trying white
One of the most nontrivial tasks in modeling railway layout is the imitation of various reservoirs: lakes, rivers, streams, waterfalls, sea coast, etc.
To create realistic water use a wide variety of methods. Unfortunately, many of them give very mediocre results. Perhaps there is nothing worse than using a simple piece of corrugated glass in the layout. In most cases, this will not imitation of water, but only its designation.
Many firms produce special materials for imitation of water, like a liquid for creating artificial reservoirs of the NOCH brand. However, the lion's share of such specials materials brings more harm than good.
Many of them do not frozen completely after applying to the surface, and remain sticky even a few days later. As a result, your artificial rivers and streams are assembled on their surface of all flies that flew to admire the layout.
There are no better things with materials that require warming up to go into a liquid state. You can imagine what they will turn into when hot summer days will come. In this case, it will take a well-conditioned room with direct sunlight protection to save the layout. Not every modelist can provide such conditions, and whether it is necessary to fuss so because of unsuccessful materials?
Another common problem is that dust accumulates quite quickly on the surface of miniature reservoirs, the initial gloss fuses and the characteristic brilliance of the water surface is lost. If "water" is made of solid material, you can simply clean it from time to time with a small brush or a bruster with a soft pile. But, from time to time, it will still have to update the glossy coating so that the water looks "wet."
As you know, the natural color of water is light blue. His she borrows at the sky, which is reflected in it. However, it appearance The layout largely depends on the type of local soils and various reflections. For example, a plurality of rivers does not have a blue, but a very exotic shade. Traditional example - Huangh, yellow river. An equally bright example is the River Platt, which is located on the territory of the American states of Colorado and Cancer. Local residents say that it is too dangling for drinking and too small for shipping. Water in it has a characteristic green-brown shade.
There are no cases when the main part of the river is relatively clean, but in some areas, as, for example, in the place of plum wastewater Some factory or at the merger point with the other river, water changes its painting, and there are various color effects.
All these nuances should be considered when you develop a layout and plan to decorate with realistic reservoirs characteristic of chosen area.
To model such water bodies, you can use a number of effective techniques that give a very realistic result and allow you to avoid many problems that have been mentioned above.
Most models believe that real water is poorly suitable for the creation of water bodies, and in most cases it is difficult to disagree with them. However, this rule has rare exceptions. A striking example of the successful use of real water is the famous layout of German railway Rügensche Kleinbahn on a scale 009, which has a lot of awards at various exhibitions.
This diorama includes a rail ferry ferry, which is carried out according to the real water. The whole layout looks quite realistic, and water only adds to him attractiveness, not to mention the functionality.
The main nuances that have to take into account when working with real water are the correct coloring of the bottom of the river, as well as the tightness of the whole structure that does not allow water leakage. If everything is correctly organized, it may turn out a very interesting layout. The main thing is to provide a drain system in advance. In the same layout of Rügensche Kleinbahn, the bottom of the reservoir is equipped with a small rubber plug. At the end of each exhibition, water merges through it in a special container.
Getting Started to create a reservoir with standing water, you should first prepare its bottom, an arbitrarily coloring the surface with brown and green shades. The shores are modeled. For this, various water plants will be suitable, such as coastal overgrown reeds and different types moss. As mentioned above, we do not recommend using special materials for imitation of water. They, as a rule, require the mass of time for complete solidification, and most often remain soft and sticky.
It is much better to use a transparent two-component epoxy resin for these purposes, having a solidification period of about an hour. Epoxy resin is often part of the sets for aircraft modeling and is very reliable and durable material. A good alternative to epoxy resin is epoxy varnish. It is easy to find in building stores. For example, epoxy varnish Tikkurila, freezes a little longer resin, but it looks no worse.
First of all, fill the main volume of epoxy in the water. So far, "water" has not hardened, it needs to be carefully distributed and smoothed with the help of improvised tools, bringing to the desired shores. It is necessary that the surface is smooth, smooth, does not contain visible curvatures.
Next, we will need additional layers of epoxy to give the reservoir feeling of depth. In the process of laying the layers, it is necessary to ensure that bubbles are not formed in epoxy resin. It is desirable that each new layer is in a thickness of no more than 1 mm.
To demonstrate this method in practice, we apply it to the modeling of the old sea margin.
The wall of the pier was modeled using materials from Wills Kits designed to create a step. Brickwork dock is very worn, as it is constantly used to unload coal. The top edge of the wall is at the level of the rail head. On a surface brick masonry You should schedule a tide line. However, seaweed and middi seashells should be applied only after mounting wooden beams.
If you want to ensure that the beams look really old and darkened from time to time, you can use a special enzyme ligninase for these purposes - it removes the lignin, which is the founding of wood, and contributes to its rapid rot. After careful treatment of wooden parts by an enzyme, rinse them well in water. After a while they will acquire the desired view of the old, half-grieving tree. If you use Balz as a material, we strongly recommend using an enzyme cellulase, which is actively destroying cellulose. Both of these enzymes are sold in specialized chemical reagents stores.
To increase realism, we recommend pre-done in the workpieces of wooden details of large cracks. You can also process their surface with a wire brush to make the surface of rough and achieve a characteristic effect of worn.
After the enzyme treatment, wooden parts are painted with matte black paint, and then treated with dry pigments of suitable shades. The tree is worth paining, mostly in brown shades, except those fragments that experienced the influence of wood creosote.
After the design is collected, in wooden trim They are done with the help of the dental hook holes from nails. Then the traces of rust are applied to the surface of the beams. On our layout, one belt belt broke, and the nails remained in a vertical patch.
Next to the surface of the pier are seaweed. Here you can use a thin strip of green ulv, passing around the border between water and land, coastal algae fucus (Fucus vesiculosus), as well as red algae (chondrus crispus) that are glued slightly below the level. So that the algae looked on the wall of the pier is realistic, you need to place brown algae slightly above the water level.
First we appline a thin strip of PVA for green seaweed. In order for the strip to be smooth, you can attach a brush with glue to a piece of wood appropriate height and navigate when applied to the edge of the pier. No need fatty layer of glue - several good smears are enough. Next, lay the foundation on the side and apply the mixture to simulate the Blended Turf from Woodland Scenics. In our case, this is the most suitable shade.
As soon as the previous layer is driving, cover arbitrary fragments of the wall with a thin layer of PVA. We apply a small-sulfuric gray foam on it. We return the basis into a horizontal position and gently recall the Mix of PVA and the gray foam using a soft wet tassel. At the same time, unprocessed fragments should remain on the wall, in order not to disturb realism.
After complete drying, the surplus of the upper layers can be removed using a dental hook, and then handle the surface of red-brown paint in detail. In some places you can use various shades of gray. Also brown color It is suitable for the color of the "Sea DNA".
If you want to imitate the seashells of mussels, we recommend using a small round grain, partially painted in a matte black and glued in the right places.
In the green and gray tones "Sea bottom" can be painted even before drying the previous layer. If you plan to use a transparent coverage for water, you should consider that the depth of water in this place is very small, and the ships constantly rub the bottom of the bottom, leaving deep markings. Some of them can be well distinguishable by representing a killeprint or a track from the steering wheel. Where Kiel conceded the bottom along the entire length, it is worth applying more dark lines.
The water itself is imitating using a two-component epoxy resin. It freezes to a solid state for only two hours and serves as an excellent basis for the following layers. You can smooth it, applying a little epoxy to algae to imitate moisture. On top of the base, we recommend putting three more layers (each 1 mm in thickness). You can also imitate sea ripples, processing the upper layer with a brush until the resin starts to stick.
Simulation of rapid flows We will look at the example of a small English river, East Lin.
East Lin is a very pinch river, especially in the rainy season. During the spring spill, the riverbed is filled with trees trunks and large boulders. Some of the shores carry traces of destruction. Pebbles accumulates on the bends of the bed.
First, the river bed is covered with a layer of PVA. On top of it, we smell a layer of rubble from the Woodland Scenics set. Crushed stone placed directly in the river bed, pressing the pebbles into the glue.
Next, stain in the car in authentic tones (the shades of brown with small splashes are recommended) and let him dry. Then there is the first layer of "water". To do this, use a transparent two-component epoxy resin. The shores and pebbles should be applied until the epoxy resin has not dried yet.
The shores are simulated using a putty (we recommend using the Polyfilla putty), and the vertical surfaces are sprinkled with rubble and sea moss, which imitates the roots of trees and shrubs.
After all the components are placed in their places and painted, the upper layer of the river can be provided with various irregularities to achieve the impressions of the rapid flow.
In the sets of Woodland Scenics there are a number of different "water effects", but, in our opinion, most of them do not provide realistic gloss. Therefore, we will also consist of a two-component epoxy resin for the last layer. As soon as it starts to stick, the surface can be treated with a dental hook, adding a white gloss, imitating foam and movement. Alternatively, a transparent silicone sealant is suitable, which is easily molded according to your preferences.
The rapid stream can be imitate using a mixture of PVA and a small amount of liquid white paint. With its help, you can imitate foam in those places where the water rushes on the boulders.
Woodland Scenics sets have their own waterfalls. See how they look, you can fly on the following video:
However, we will try to make a realistic waterfall on their own.
To do this, take a transparent silicone sealant and mix it with a small amount of liquid white paint. Then we stretch a small piece of food film on smooth smooth surface, we apply to her painted sealant and begin to smooth it into length. Further, the resulting strip of sealant to achieve the desired effect. You can experiment without fears, since this material is very cheap. You can even prepare several options. After that, we give sealants to dry carefully (it will take about 12 hours).
Now neatly glue the frozen sealant from the food film and attach it to the desired surface with several drops of liquid sealant. As soon as the waterfall turns out to be in the right place, cover its upper part with a thin layer of liquid transparent sealant with the addition of white sealant. Further follows the stage of artistic processing, during which we imitate realistic splashes and foam at the bottom of the waterfall.
As soon as it can dry, you can apply the additional layer of two-component epoxy throughout the surface of the river. In this case, it is possible to use epoxy varnish, overlapping it with a smooth layer from the beginning of the river - through the waterfall - to its very end.
The sea is attended on railway models not too often, and its imitation is associated with some difficulties.
For modeling the sea coast, the texture coating for walls and ceilings is best suitable (for example, "Teraflex"). This material is commonly used to create decorative coatings Any texture, including with different patterns. Tell articles on construction topics are devoted to texture coatings. Therefore, we will not describe working with them here.
The textural coating is superimposed on the layout with a spatula and then shape to achieve the effect of the surf. After the base is frozen, it can be painted in its taste, and then cover with glossy varnish.
So, we made sure that the modeling of water is a very interesting task, which is easy to decide, guided by simple methods. We hope that this article was useful to you.
Successful to your practice, and to new meetings!
I present to your attention one of the ways of imitation of waves on the surface of the reservoir using epoxy resin. The method is a modification of the V.Demchenko method described in the article "Imitation of Water". In this article, the author describes the method of manufacturing a wavy water relief by casting from epoxy resin into an aluminum form in one stage. It should be noted that the method is very sensitive to the quality of the production of injection mold (even the Demchenko itself did not work from the first time), and also requires a large number of resin.
The method proposed by me is characterized by the fact that the process of forming an aqueous surface is divided into two stages - a preliminary (casting of roughing gypsum form) and the finishing (formation of the relief of the epoxy resin is already directly on the plaster casting). Such a way, of course, somewhat lengthens its work, but it costs cheaper and is quite accessible not to very experienced modelists. So, begin. Immediately make a reservation that I would write in detail if possible, since the article is addressed to the novice model stores.
We are determined with the size of the future diorama. I use standard photo frames (photo 1). Next, a special device is required - a board, with a flat layer of plasticine with a thickness of about 5 mm and an area sufficient to perform the required casting. On this board, the blunt end of the brush is drawn the future relief of the water in the plasticine (photo 2). Covered the board with a layer of fine food aluminum foil and a finger ride in it formed on the plasticine relief (photo 3). This allows you to smooth the relief, make it more realistic. With the help of Linek, fastened with plasticine, we form a bath for plaster casting in the size of the future diorama (photo 4). The ruler should be triggered into plasticine so that the plaster is not rare. We divor the plaster (alabaster) by adding and mixing small portions of the powder in water to a sour cream state. Water can be pre-tinted with dye (photo 5), for example, such (photo 6). The resulting sour cream solution is poured into the form and wait for frozen (photo 7). I give a casting to dry about a day.
So, the next day we have a finished casting that fixes on the frame (photo 8) with the help of glue, for example, such (photo 9). Pre-in the frame should be inserted from 2 mm of plastic as the bottom of the future diorama (photo 10). Kees it with acrylic paints in the colors of water, which we wish to see on the diorama. I chose dark brown and dark greenish shades, as I do the base for a small peat swamp (photo 11). We give paint to dry about a day. The next day, a thin plastic make up the ends of the future diorama (photo 12). In this case, I used transparent plastic from some packaging. Board must perform above the surface of 3-5 mm at least to form a bath for filling the surface with epoxy resin (photo 13).
We prepare epoxy resin (photo 14). We act according to the instructions. At first, it makes a larger vessel with a resin in a water bath to 40-50 degrees (but not more!) So that it flows better. Mix the required number of resin into a disposable cup. Calculate this amount is easy. The resin layer should be small - 2-3 mm. If the base size is as I have 13x13 cm, then the volume will be so 13x13x0.3 \u003d 50 ml - a quarter of a cup. Next, add a hardener in the recommended proportions with small parts, mix everything thoroughly. For accurate dosage of the hardener, it is convenient to use a syringe. We will give a little settlement of the composition, so that the main air bubbles came out, and then poured the epoxy surface of the base (photo 15). It can be seen that the bubbles are still quite a lot. We derive them toothpick (photo 16). It will take about half an hour.
The next stage is the actual formation of the relief. Obviously, epoxy spread out with a smooth layer (photo 17). But the relief is easy to restore if we slide the base at an angle (Fig. 18). While the epoxy is fluid, relief will disappear. Therefore, the most important thing is not to miss the moment of starting it. How much time will take place before this moment from the beginning of the preparation of the composition depends on the number of added hardener. Therefore, I recommend determining this moment experimentally. In my case, epoxy began to be captured after 2.5 hours. Next should be kolden, tilting the base, 15-20 minutes until the resin movement (photo 19). I note that the degree of inclination is easy to control the depth of the relief, making the waves with insignificant or on the contrary notable. Full pouring occurs after a day (photo 20).
So, we have a workpiece with a realistic terrain of water for further work on the diorama. The complexity of the method is in a pure time of four or five hours, of which three hours are witchcraft over frozen epoxy. The advantages of the method include a small amount of resin used, high reliability of the formated relief, since it occurs with the natural wave-like movement of the resin in the process of its frozen. And the third plus. If we want to drill a hole at the base, for example, for landing the cane, the drill accounts for only a thin layer of resin. This allows you to significantly save on thin drills when further work with diorama. This method was used when working with a "wet space" diorama. The drilling of the foundation under the reed was without loss.
