Let's go in order. I agree with clause 3 of article 1358. It clearly follows from this clause that a Utility Model (someone else's patent) is recognized as used in a product (in your product) if at least one feature from the independent claim of someone else's patent is used in it. This only used feature can only be a distinctive feature, since Article 1358 of the Civil Code deals with EVERY feature of an independent claim. "An independent claim must contain the features necessary: - to realize the purpose of an invention (utility model), - to achieve the technical result indicated in the description; The set of features of an independent claim must ensure patentability for the object of the invention or utility model"
It looks like it. element damping comes from combos. Examples are usually associated with either rotor dynamics or FSI analysis using acoustic elements. Or do you shake the containment? Well, there are water tanks))) they can be modeled with acoustic elements. Although they are fleas, of course. g - constant structural damping assign different g to different materials. Why isn't Rayleigh damping suitable? well, except that you don't know the alpha and beta you need. the approach with the creation of a FE model is used. The FE model can contain different objects of the combinative type14 or just materials with damping. Assembling the matrix from the FE-model is the task of the program. Our task is to assemble the FE-model and set up the program correctly. To shove your objects into its matrices after the program has formulated the matrix is unproductive and does not correspond to the popular approach. The conversation about modal coordinates, apparently, is a conversation about the solution by the method of superposition of harmonic or transient analysis. But it is not exactly)
Let's go in order. I think you agree with paragraph 3 of article 1358. Yes? It clearly follows from this clause that if at least one feature from the independent claim is not used, then the patent is not used in the object. Do you agree? This only unused feature can be both a distinctive feature and a restrictive one, since Article 1358 of the Civil Code deals with EVERY feature of an independent claim. That's actually all I wanted to say.
Ratcheting is not a stabilization, but an accumulation of deformation from cycle to cycle. but the reverse process is also possible - stabilization and extension of the hysteresis into a straight line. He even probably more often. How exactly in specific conditions a specific material will behave is still a question. that's it. only in special cases. let's say we are stretching the material. and let us assume that our material is such that at a sufficiently large deformation the Bauschinger effect ceases to be observed. how can this be, for example ... but we have exceeded the yield point by a factor of two. If the Bauschinger effect worked, then upon unloading and subsequent compression, the material would begin to plastically deform immediately. And if at the stage of stretching they exceeded the yield point by a factor of three, then the material would flow in compression, not yet unloaded. This pushes us towards the fact that the yield surface is not rigid, but has the ability to deform in the region of large deformations. But adherents of isotropic hardening go further. And let's, so that the above-described crap does not work, as the fluidity surface shifts, we will also expand it. Then, with a large tension and subsequent unloading and compression, one can choose such parameters to fall into a separate private experiment or several experiments. But, applying isotropic hardening, we expand the surface not only in one direction, but also in the perpendicular direction. If we look at the stress space, then let's say tension / compression - we were talking about sigma1, then the perpendicular - sigma 2 or sigma3. And now this is absolutely wrong. That is, it will not work for complex loading paths. Therefore, a combination with hasty hardening is a dead-end path. It does not exist in nature; it was simply easier to program it at the dawn of FEM development for problems with one-sided plastic deformation and a simple loading path. As a bonus to those who have read to the end. There is also combined hardening, by the way, but with good results.
In the sources indicated by you, we see information that is fully consistent with the Civil Code of Clause 3 of Article 1358. A utility model is recognized as used in a product if the product contains each feature of a utility model given in an independent paragraph of the utility model formula contained in the patent. 3. Independent claim The independent claim determines the scope of legal protection of an invention (utility model), ie. is the basis of the application. When writing an independent clause, the following basic principles should be considered: # 1: The fewer features in an independent clause, the broader the legal protection, which is better for a future patent. Therefore, it is necessary to try to describe the object in the most general terms (concepts) so that the applicant has the maximum scope of rights to the invention (utility model). No. 2: An independent claim must contain the features necessary: - to implement the purpose of the invention (utility model), - to achieve the technical result specified in the description; No. 3: The totality of features of an independent claim must ensure patentability for the subject of an invention or utility model. Let me then ask a question: What do you actually disagree with? According to article of the Civil Code, clause 3 of article 1358, is a utility model recognized as used in a product if the product contains every feature of a utility model cited in an independent paragraph of the utility model formula contained in the patent?
I think it will be clear from the picture: why cut the tire. Indeed, they do not rot and do not creep from the sun-frost. Accidental blows, unlike asbestos-cement sheet, do not harm them. After all, there are many applications for rubber strips. Even if you do not frame the beds, like mine. Even if not cut a tire on the tape, the hoops obtained from it, can be used as a compost bin or vertical bed. Yes, you have to hear a lot that, they say, it is harmful and terrible and all that ... I do not know. But my ants, just near the rubber, arrange their summer incubator masonry where they keep their pupae. If rubber had been harmful, I don't think they would have worked that way. And if they are not afraid, then somehow it is not for me.
OK. Everyone decides this question for himself. But who decided to cut the tire for their own needs - here are some tips:
You need to start cutting the tire with a boot knife. We carry out several times one and the same cut, pressing on the board, so that the cut diverges and cut through. Now we insert a good knife into the cut, sharpen it towards us (I made a special cutter from an industrial hacksaw blade) and cut it in an upward motion, simultaneously bending the cut to the side. Cut the tire how bread is cut - no need. Rip up the rubber. And the knife does not have to be razor-sharp: a slight sawtooth burr is only good. 
You can cut hoops into ribbons with an ordinary, small grinder. Just take care that the wind is not on the neighbors, otherwise you will not avoid an untranslatable pun (in one of the local dialects) because this is a smelly business. BUT! Rubber is nicely cut by a grinder, metal cord is also striped with it and ... In general, cutting a tire is a quick matter if you see how once.
As an example, why do we need cut tires, I can bring to your attention
The modern industry produces many different types of rubbers that are used in the most unexpected industries. Quite simply and quickly, you can find the necessary rubber gaskets or the necessary rubber blanks at the nearest bazaar. However, if you still need to make a rubber product with your own hands, then you will need a couple of simple tips on how to cut the rubber simply and neatly.
Rubber is quite varied in its properties, ranging from a very elastic and rather pliable material and ending with elastic durable rubber plates. The use of rubber can be found in a variety of ways, for example, cutting out a suitable sized water pad, a heel for boots, or a non-slip support under a glass surface. Many are cut from car tires all sorts of animals, swings, or home furnishings. You can make flower beds from car tires, but for this you need to know how and with what to cut a car tire.
The secret is very simple, in order to neatly and simply cut a piece of rubber, you need a sharp knife, of course 🙂, and ordinary water.
A piece of elastic rubber, a sharp knife, and water. First, you need to outline the cut line (it was enough for me to just align the knife blade).
We begin to cut the rubber with a knife. Cutting thick rubber with a knife becomes rather difficult as the blade deepens into the thickness. The rubber begins to become viscous, and if you overdo it, the rubber can even melt. Whatever this happens, and the knife went through the rubber like clockwork, it must be moistened with water (and not oil, in no case moistened with oil).
We moisten the rubber with water and cut with a knife. When wet, the rubber becomes slippery, and the knife blade will not get stuck or melt the rubber, thereby you get a smooth and high-quality cut without much effort.
A rubber block cut with water. Sometimes there is a need to cut rubber circles, for example, for non-slip legs under a stool, heels, or for spacers between two glasses. In order to cut smooth rubber mugs, you need to choose metal pipe a suitable diameter, you also need a piston that is suitable for the diameter of the tube.
A - metal tube, B - piston You need to sharpen the edge of the iron tube with a sharpener or file.
Honed iron tube After you sharpen the pipe, you need to insert it into the drill chuck, moisten the rubber with water and just start drilling the holes, having previously laid a piece of wood.
We drill round rubber gaskets With the help of such a simple device and water, you can drill as many smooth, neat rubber rounds as you like (I use them to make non-slip feet for devices). The sharpened tube acts on the principle of a drill, but as the circles are drilled, it is filled with them, and in order to pull them out, a special piston is needed. You then simply push the rubber rounds out of the sharpened tube.
We squeeze the rubber bands out of the tube with a piston The main thing is not to forget to wet the rubber with water when drilling or cutting. It should be noted that it is much easier and more convenient to cut a circle using a sharpened tube than in the classical way - using a drill. However, if you need to drill through the rubber with a drill, it is also quite easy to do this by sharpening it first, and periodically dipping the drill into water.
You need to drill rubber at low speeds and periodically wet the cutting edge. However, if you need to drill a large block of rubber at high RPM, you may want to submerge it completely in the water.
Drilling rubber in water with a drill. In the most extreme case, holes in thin rubber, as in plastic, can be melted by heating a drill shank or an iron tube with a lighter.
Rubber melted holes The main thing is to be careful when working with hot metal. Also remember that when overheated, rubber can emit toxic substances, therefore, melt holes under the hood or in a well-ventilated area. Observe all safety regulations even when drilling rubber.
I think it will be clear from the picture: why cut the tire. Indeed, they do not rot and do not creep from the sun-frost. Accidental blows, unlike asbestos-cement sheet, do not harm them. After all, there are many applications for rubber strips. Even if you do not frame the beds, like mine. Even if not cut a tire on the tape, the hoops obtained from it can be used as a compost box or a vertical bed. Yes, I have to hear a lot that, they say, harmful and terrible and all that ... I do not know. But my ants, just near the rubber, arrange their summer incubator masonry where they keep their pupae. If rubber had been harmful, I don't think they would have worked that way. And if they are not afraid, then somehow it is not for me.
OK. Everyone decides this question for himself. But who decided to cut the tire for their own needs - here are some tips: 
You need to start cutting the tire with a boot knife. We carry out several times one and the same cut, pressing on the board, so that the cut diverges and cut through. Now we insert a good knife into the cut, sharpen it towards us (I made a special cutter from an industrial hacksaw blade) and cut it in an upward motion, simultaneously bending the cut to the side. Cut the tire how bread is cut - no need. Rip up the rubber. And the knife does not have to be razor-sharp: a slight sawtooth burr is only good. 
I recommend unscrewing the tire for the winter and letting it sit. Otherwise cut, it will become a wave. It is necessary to remove the trough-like shape, which will give the hoop a long aging period. And you can do it differently. Make a bunch of cuts on the inverted tire ...
You can cut hoops into ribbons with an ordinary, small grinder. Just take care that the wind is not on the neighbors, otherwise you will not avoid an untranslatable pun (in one of the local dialects) because this is a smelly business. BUT! The rubber is nicely cut with a grinder, the metal cord is also striped with it and ... In general, cutting a tire is a quick matter if you see how once. And to make it absolutely clear - here's a video for you, where tire cutting takes place in real time.
http://robinzoid.ru/kak-razrezat-pokryishku/
When processing and manufacturing products from old tire there are pitfalls that are hidden from the eyes, and appear only directly in the process. This article is devoted to these stones.
The tire must be rigidly secured, or at least secure the part that is being cultivated at the moment. In our case, an original tire cutting technique has been developed. Proceeding from this, it is necessary to cut the tread first of all while the tire has maximum rigidity. In case there is, you need to cut the protector and rest against something, an ordinary glass jar will come to the rescue, although after sawing 5-6 centimeters the jar must be moved.
The threads of the old and new tires are different and the results i. E. the properties of the cut-off elements are different. For clarity, if you make a swan from a bald tire, then the swan's head falls in front, and if from an almost new one, then the head, on the contrary, is thrown back.
The metal cord is located only over the entire rubbing surface. The metal cord, together with the thickness of the tread itself, creates additional difficulties when grooving the tire.
Using a hacksaw for metal, cutting a tire is very, very difficult, and in some places it is completely impossible.
When processing the main rubbing surface, use:
But the sides of the wheel are easily cut with an ordinary knife. Rarely, but aptly, there are tires without a metal cord at all - probably 1 in 40.
The ring is a hardened multi-strand metal rod bent into a ring. Cutting with a hacksaw for metal is unrealistic, but it is possible for a long time. Only one way out is to use the Bulgarka. In my opinion, the landing ring is correctly called. Many immediately want to get rid of the ring; in some cases, the rigidity of the ring is used in the design.
You can paint the wheels with any paint. The nitro enamel dries quickly and allows you to immediately place and use the shapes. But since rubber has to be painted, which is deformed during transportation, the paint also cracks and bursts - regardless of the type of paint. Since the chemical reaction is constantly going on, so the colors fade, white becomes with yellow tint, therefore, it is better if there is an opportunity to repaint the figures annually.
Since the cord is metal mesh, therefore, metal hairs are formed on the cut, which strive to cut through the skin. Metal shavings are not a pleasant splinter. Be especially careful with your eyes when sawing with a jigsaw.
I would like to immediately warn, but not scare or dissuade, that the tire weighs quite a bit and working with a cord and a metal nozzle ring implies the presence of male hands. On average, the wheels are 13, 14, 15 radii - the most running ones weigh on average in the range from 5 to 8 kilograms, and if we judge that one cutting can take about 1 hour, then the wheel will have to be turned more than once.
For processing, cutting out an old tire, you must:
http://delashop.ru/content/view/28/36/
Reader Tips:
If you cut ALONG (along the circumference) then ... FIG knows did not cut it. possibly a sharp knife and soap as advised above or a jigsaw.
this again - if you don't run into the line.
The modern industry produces many different types of rubbers that are used in the most unexpected industries. Quite simply and quickly, you can find the necessary rubber gaskets or the necessary rubber blanks at the nearest bazaar. However, if you still need to make a rubber product with your own hands, then you will need a couple of simple tips on how to cut the rubber simply and neatly.
Rubber can be quite varied in its properties, ranging from a very elastic and rather pliable material and ending with elastic durable rubber plates. The use of rubber can be found in a wide variety of ways, for example, cutting out a suitable sized plumbing pad, a heel for boots, or a non-slip support under a glass surface. Many carve out all sorts of animals, swings, or make interior items from car tires. You can make flower beds from car tires, but for this you need to know how and with what to cut a car tire.
The secret is very simple, in order to neatly and simply cut a piece of rubber, you need a sharp knife, of course. and ordinary water.
A piece of elastic rubber, a sharp knife, and water.
First, you need to outline the cut line (it was enough for me to just align the knife blade).
We begin to cut the rubber with a knife.
Cutting thick rubber with a knife becomes rather difficult as the blade deepens into the thickness. The rubber begins to become viscous, and if you overdo it, the rubber can even melt. Whatever this happens, and the knife went through the rubber like clockwork, it must be moistened with water (and not oil, in no case moistened with oil).
We moisten the rubber with water and cut with a knife.
When wet, the rubber becomes slippery, and the knife blade will not get stuck or melt the rubber, thereby you get a smooth and high-quality cut without much effort.
A rubber block cut with water.
Sometimes there is a need to cut rubber circles, for example, for non-slip legs under a stool, heels, or for spacers between two glasses. In order to cut smooth rubber mugs, you need to choose a metal pipe of a suitable diameter, you also need a piston that is suitable for the diameter of the tube.
A - metal tube, B - piston
You need to sharpen the edge of the iron tube with a sharpener or file.
Honed iron tube
After you sharpen the pipe, you need to insert it into the drill chuck, moisten the rubber with water and just start drilling the holes, having previously laid a piece of wood.
We drill round rubber gaskets
With the help of such a simple device and water, you can drill as many smooth, neat rubber rounds as you like (I use them to make non-slip feet for devices). The sharpened tube acts on the principle of a drill, but as the circles are drilled, it is filled with them, and in order to pull them out, a special piston is needed. You then simply push the rubber rounds out of the sharpened tube.
We squeeze the rubber bands out of the tube with a piston
The main thing is not to forget to wet the rubber with water when drilling or cutting. It should be noted that it is much easier and more convenient to cut a circle using a sharpened tube than in the classical way - using a drill. However, if you need to drill through the rubber with a drill, it is also quite easy to do this by sharpening it first, and periodically dipping the drill into water.
You need to drill rubber at low speeds and periodically wet the cutting edge. However, if you need to drill a large block of rubber at high RPM, you may want to submerge it completely in the water.
Drilling rubber in water with a drill.
In the most extreme case, holes in thin rubber, as in plastic, can be melted by heating a drill shank or an iron tube with a lighter.
Rubber melted holes
The main thing is to be careful when working with hot metal. Also remember that when overheated, rubber can emit toxic substances, therefore, melt holes under the hood or in a well-ventilated area. Observe all safety regulations even when drilling rubber.
http://bip-mip.ru
