House, design, renovation, decor.  Courtyard and garden.  With your own hands

House, design, renovation, decor. Courtyard and garden. With your own hands

» DIY wind energy. Assembling a homemade wind turbine: design options from FORUMHOUSE users

DIY wind energy. Assembling a homemade wind turbine: design options from FORUMHOUSE users

Russia has a twofold position in relation to wind energy resources. On the one hand, due to the huge total area and the abundance of flat areas, there is generally a lot of wind, and it for the most part smooth. On the other hand, our winds are mostly low-grade, slow, see fig. On the third, the winds are violent in sparsely populated areas. Based on this, the task of starting a wind generator on the farm is quite relevant. But in order to decide whether to buy a rather expensive device, or to make it yourself, you need to think carefully about which type (and there are a lot of them) for which purpose to choose.

Basic concepts

  1. KIEV - coefficient of use of wind energy. If used for calculating a mechanistic model of a plane wind (see below), it is equal to the efficiency of the rotor of a wind power plant (APU).
  2. Efficiency - end-to-end efficiency of the APU, from the oncoming wind to the terminals of the electric generator, or to the amount of water pumped into the tank.
  3. The minimum operating wind speed (MWS) is its speed at which the wind turbine begins to supply current to the load.
  4. The maximum permissible wind speed (MDS) is its speed at which the generation of energy stops: automation either turns off the generator, or puts the rotor in a weather vane, or folds it and hides it, or the rotor stops itself, or the APU simply collapses.
  5. Starting wind speed (SWV) - at this speed, the rotor is able to turn without load, spin up and enter the operating mode, after which you can turn on the generator.
  6. Negative starting speed (OSS) - this means that the APU (or wind turbine - wind power plant, or VEA, wind power unit) to start at any wind speed requires mandatory spin-up from an external energy source.
  7. Starting (initial) torque - the ability of a rotor, forcibly decelerated in the air flow, to create a torque on the shaft.
  8. A wind turbine (VD) is a part of the APU from the rotor to the shaft of a generator or pump, or another energy consumer.
  9. Rotary wind generator - APU, in which wind energy is converted into torque on the power take-off shaft by rotating the rotor in the air stream.
  10. Rotor operating speed range is the difference between MDS and MPC when operating at rated load.
  11. Slow-speed wind turbine - in it the linear speed of the rotor parts in the stream does not significantly exceed the wind speed or below it. The dynamic flow head is directly converted into blade thrust.
  12. High-speed windmill - the linear speed of the blades is significantly (up to 20 or more times) higher than the wind speed, and the rotor forms its own air circulation. The cycle of converting the flow energy into thrust is complex.

Notes:

  1. Low-speed APUs, as a rule, have KIEV lower than high-speed ones, but have a starting torque sufficient to spin up the generator without disconnecting the load and zero TCO, i.e. completely self-starting and applicable in the lightest winds.
  2. Slowness and speed are relative concepts. A household wind turbine with 300 rpm can be low-speed, and powerful APUs of the EuroWind type, from which the fields of wind power plants, wind farms (see Fig.) And whose rotors make about 10 rpm, are high-speed, because with such their diameter, the linear speed of the blades and their aerodynamics over the greater part of their span are quite “airplane-like,” see below.

What kind of generator do you need?

An electric generator for a household wind turbine must generate electricity in a wide range of rotation speeds and have the ability to self-start without automation and external power sources. In the case of using an APU with OSS (wind turbines with spinning), which, as a rule, have high KIEV and efficiency, it must also be reversible, i.e. be able to work as an engine. At powers up to 5 kW, this condition is satisfied by electric machines with permanent magnets based on niobium (super magnets); on steel or ferrite magnets, you can count on no more than 0.5-0.7 kW.

Note: asynchronous alternators or collector generators with a non-magnetized stator are not suitable at all. When the wind force decreases, they "go out" long before its speed drops to the MPC, and then they themselves will not start.

An excellent "heart" of the APU with a capacity of 0.3 to 1-2 kW is obtained from an alternating current autogenerator with a built-in rectifier; these are now the majority. Firstly, they keep the output voltage of 11.6-14.7 V in a fairly wide range of speeds without external electronic stabilizers. Second, the silicon gates open when the voltage across the winding reaches approximately 1.4 V, and before that the generator “does not see” the load. To do this, the generator needs to be spinned up pretty well.

In most cases, an autogenerator can be directly, without a gear or belt drive, connected to the high-speed HP shaft by selecting the speed by choosing the number of blades, see below. "Fast-walkers" have a small or zero starting torque, but the rotor will have enough time to spin up enough without disconnecting the load before the valves open and the generator will give current.

Choice by the wind

Before deciding which wind generator to make, let's decide on the local aerology. In gray-greenish(windless) areas of the wind map at least some sense will only be from a sailing wind turbine(and we'll talk about them further). If you need a constant power supply, you will have to add a booster (a rectifier with a voltage stabilizer), a charger, a powerful battery, an inverter 12/24/36/48 V DC to 220/380 V 50 Hz AC. Such an economy will cost no less than $ 20,000, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to remove a long-term power of more than 3-4 kW. In general, with an adamant striving for alternative energy, it is better to look for another source of it.

In yellow-green, weakly windy places, if the need for electricity is up to 2-3 kW, you can take on a slow-speed vertical wind generator yourself... They have been developed innumerable, and there are designs that in terms of KIEV and efficiency are almost not inferior to industrial-made "blades".

If a wind turbine for a house is supposed to be bought, then it is better to focus on a wind turbine with a sail rotor. There are many disputes and there are many of them, and in theory everything is still not clear, but they work. In the Russian Federation "sailboats" are produced in Taganrog with a capacity of 1-100 kW.

In red, windy regions, the choice depends on the required power. In the range of 0.5-1.5 kW, self-made "verticals" are justified; 1.5-5 kW - purchased "sailboats". "Vertical" can also be purchased, but it will cost more than a horizontal APU. And, finally, if a wind turbine with a power of 5 kW or more is required, then you need to choose between purchased horizontal "blades" or "sailboats".

Note: many manufacturers, especially of the second tier, offer kits of parts from which you can assemble a wind generator with a capacity of up to 10 kW yourself. Such a set will cost 20-50% cheaper than a ready-made one with installation. But before buying, you need to carefully study the aerology of the proposed installation site, and then, according to the specifications, select the appropriate type and model.

About safety

Parts of a household wind turbine in operation can have a linear speed exceeding 120 or even 150 m / s, and a piece of any solid material weighing 20 g, flying at a speed of 100 m / s, with a "successful" hit, kills a healthy man on the spot. A steel, or hard plastic, plate 2 mm thick, moving at a speed of 20 m / s, cuts it in half.

In addition, most wind turbines over 100 W are quite noisy. Many generate ultra-low (less than 16 Hz) air pressure fluctuations - infrasounds. Infrasounds are inaudible, but destructive to health, and spread very far.

Note: in the late 1980s, there was a scandal in the United States - the largest wind farm in the country at that time had to be closed. The Indians from the reservation 200 km from the field of its Armed Forces proved in court that the health disorders that had sharply increased in them after the commissioning of the WPP were due to its infrasound.

For the above reasons, the installation of the APU is allowed at a distance of at least 5 of their heights from the nearest residential buildings. In the courtyards of private households, you can install industrial-made wind turbines, appropriately certified. It is generally impossible to install an APU on the roofs - during their operation, even with low-power ones, alternating mechanical loads arise that can cause a resonance of the building structure and its destruction.

Note: APU height is the highest point of the swept disk (for blade rotors) or geomeric figure (for vertical APU with a rotor on the shaft). If the APU mast or the rotor axis protrude upward even higher, the height is calculated from their top - the top.

Wind, aerodynamics, KIEV

A home-made wind generator obeys the same laws of nature as a factory one, calculated on a computer. And the home-builder needs to understand the basics of his work very well - most often he does not have at his disposal expensive super-modern materials and technological equipment. The aerodynamics of the APU is, oh, how difficult it is ...

Wind and KIEV

To calculate the serial factory APU, the so-called. flat mechanistic wind model. It is based on the following assumptions:

  • Wind speed and direction are constant within the effective rotor surface.
  • Air is a continuous medium.
  • The effective surface of the rotor is equal to the swept area.
  • The energy of the air flow is purely kinetic.

Under such conditions maximum energy units of air volume are calculated according to the school formula, assuming the density of air under normal conditions is 1.29 kg * cubic meters. m. At a wind speed of 10 m / s, one cube of air carries 65 J, and 650 watts can be removed from one square of the effective rotor surface, at 100% efficiency of the entire APU. This is a very simplistic approach - everyone knows that the wind is never perfectly flat. But this has to be done in order to ensure the repeatability of products - a common practice in technology.

The flat model should not be ignored; it provides a clear minimum of available wind power. But the air, firstly, is compressed, and secondly, it is very fluid (dynamic viscosity is only 17.2 μPa * s). This means that the flow can flow around the swept area, reducing the effective surface and KIEV, which is most often observed. But in principle, the opposite situation is also possible: the wind flows to the rotor and the effective surface area will then be greater than the swept surface, and the KIEV will be greater than 1 relative to the same for a flat wind.

Here are two examples. The first is a pleasure yacht, rather heavy, the yacht can go not only against the wind, but also faster than it. Wind is meant outside; the apparent wind must still be faster, otherwise how will it pull the ship?

The second is a classic of aviation history. During the tests of the MIG-19, it turned out that the interceptor, which was a ton heavier than the front-line fighter, accelerated faster in speed. With the same engines in the same glider.

Theorists did not know what to think, and seriously doubted the law of conservation of energy. In the end, it turned out that it was the radar fairing cone protruding from the air intake. From its nose to the shell, an air seal appeared, as if raking it from the sides to the engine compressors. Since then, shockwaves have become firmly established in theory as useful, and the fantastic flight performance of modern aircraft is in no small part due to their skillful use.

Aerodynamics

The development of aerodynamics is usually divided into two eras - before N. G. Zhukovsky and after. His report "On the attached vortices" of November 15, 1905 marked the beginning of a new era in aviation.

Prior to Zhukovsky, they flew on sails set flat: it was assumed that the particles of the incoming stream give all their momentum to the leading edge of the wing. This made it possible to immediately get rid of the vector quantity - the angular momentum - which gave rise to furious and most often non-analytical mathematics, to move to much more convenient scalar purely energy relations, and as a result obtain the calculated pressure field on the bearing plane, more or less similar to the present.

Such a mechanistic approach made it possible to create vehicles that, at the very least, can take off and fly from one place to another, not necessarily crashing to the ground somewhere along the way. But the desire to increase speed, carrying capacity and other flight qualities more and more revealed the imperfection of the original aerodynamic theory.

Zhukovsky's idea was this: along the upper and lower surfaces of the wing, the air travels a different path. From the condition of the continuity of the medium (vacuum bubbles are not formed in the air by themselves), it follows that the velocities of the upper and lower flows descending from the trailing edge should be different. Due to the small, but finite viscosity of the air, a vortex should form there due to the difference in velocities.

The vortex rotates, and the law of conservation of momentum, as immutable as the law of conservation of energy, is also valid for vector quantities, i.e. must take into account the direction of movement. Therefore, right there, at the trailing edge, an oppositely rotating vortex with the same torque should be formed. By what means? Due to the energy generated by the engine.

For the practice of aviation, this meant a revolution: by choosing the appropriate wing profile, it was possible to let the attached vortex around the wing in the form of a circulation Г, increasing its lift. That is, having spent a part, and for high speeds and wing loads - a large part, the engine power, it is possible to create an air flow around the device, which allows to achieve the best flight qualities.

This made aviation an aviation, and not part of aeronautics: now the aircraft could create itself the environment necessary for flight and no longer be a toy of air currents. All you need is a more powerful engine, and more and more powerful ...

KIEV again

But the windmill has no motor. On the contrary, it must take energy from the wind and give it to consumers. And here it comes out - he pulled out his legs, the tail got stuck. Too little wind energy was allowed on the rotor's own circulation - it will be weak, the thrust of the blades will be low, and the KIEV and power will be low. Let's give a lot for circulation - the rotor will be on Idling spinning like crazy, but consumers again get little: they gave a little load, the rotor braked, the wind blew off the circulation, and the rotor became.

The law of conservation of energy gives a "golden mean" just in the middle: we give 50% of the energy to the load, and for the remaining 50% we twist the flow to the optimum. Practice confirms the assumptions: if the efficiency of a good pulling propeller is 75-80%, then the KIEV, just as carefully calculated and blown in a wind tunnel, the blade rotor reaches 38-40%, i.e. up to half of what can be achieved with an excess of energy.

Modernity

Nowadays aerodynamics, armed with modern mathematics and computers, is increasingly moving away from inevitably something and simplifying models to an accurate description of the behavior of a real body in a real flow. And here, in addition to the general line - power, power, and more power! - side paths are found, but promising just with a limited amount of energy entering the system.

The famous alternative aviator Paul McCready created an airplane back in the 80s, with two motors from a chainsaw with a capacity of 16 hp. showing 360 km / h. Moreover, its chassis was non-retractable tricycle, and the wheels were without fairings. None of McCready's vehicles went online and went on alert, but two - one with piston motors and propellers, and the other jet - flew around the globe for the first time in history without landing at one gas station.

The development of the theory also affected the sails that gave birth to the original wing very significantly. "Live" aerodynamics allowed the yachts in 8 knots wind. stand on hydrofoils (see fig.); to accelerate such a whopper to the required speed with a propeller, an engine of at least 100 hp is required. Racing catamarans sail at about 30 knots in the same wind. (55 km / h).

There are also completely non-trivial finds. Fans of the rarest and most extreme sport - base jumping - wearing an apecial wing suit, wingsuit, fly without a motor, maneuvering, at a speed of more than 200 km / h (picture on the right), and then smoothly land in a pre-selected place. In what fairy tale do people fly by themselves?

Many mysteries of nature have also been resolved; in particular - the flight of a beetle. According to classical aerodynamics, it is not capable of flying. In the same way as the ancestor of the "stealth" F-117 with its diamond-shaped wing, is also unable to take off. And the MiG-29 and Su-27, which for some time can fly with their tail forward, do not fit into any ideas at all.

And why, then, dealing with wind turbines, not fun and not a tool for destroying their own kind, but a source of a vital resource, is it necessary to dance without fail from the theory of weak streams with its flat wind model? Is there really no way to move forward?

What to expect from a classic?

However, in no case should one give up the classics. It provides a foundation, without leaning on which one cannot rise higher. In the same way as set theory does not cancel the multiplication table, and quantum chromodynamics does not make apples fly up from trees.

So what can you expect with the classic approach? Let's look at the picture. Left - types of rotors; they are shown conditionally. 1 - vertical carousel, 2 - vertical orthogonal (wind turbine); 2-5 - bladed rotors with a different number of blades with optimized profiles.

On the right, along the horizontal axis, the relative rotor speed is plotted, i.e., the ratio of the linear speed of the blade to the wind speed. Vertical upwards - KIEV. And down - again, the relative torque. A single (100%) torque is considered to be the one that creates a rotor forcibly braked in the flow with 100% KIEV, i.e. when all the energy of the flow is converted into a rotating force.

This approach allows for far-reaching conclusions. For example, the number of blades must be chosen not only and not so much according to the desired rotation speed: 3- and 4-blades immediately lose a lot in terms of KIEV and torque compared to 2- and 6-blades that work well in approximately the same speed range. And outwardly similar carousel and orthogonal have fundamentally different properties.

In general, preference should be given to blade rotors, except for cases when the utmost cheapness, simplicity, maintenance-free self-start without automation are required, and lifting to the mast is impossible.

Note: let's talk about sailing rotors especially - they don't seem to fit into the classics.

Vertical

APUs with a vertical axis of rotation have an indisputable advantage for everyday life: their units requiring maintenance are concentrated at the bottom and there is no need to lift them up. There remains, and even then not always, a self-aligning thrust bearing, but it is strong and durable. Therefore, when designing a simple wind turbine, the selection of options should be started with vertical units. Their main types are shown in Fig.

Sun

In the first position - the simplest, most often called the Savonius rotor. In fact, it was invented in 1924 in the USSR by Ya. A. and A. A. Voronin, and the Finnish industrialist Sigurd Savonius shamelessly appropriated the invention, ignoring the Soviet copyright certificate, and began serial production. But the introduction in the fate of the invention means a lot, therefore, in order not to stir up the past and not disturb the ashes of the dead, we will call this wind turbine the Voronin-Savonius rotor, or, for short, VS.

The aircraft is good for everyone, except for the "locomotive" KIEV in 10-18%. However, in the USSR they worked on it a lot, and there are some developments. Below we will consider an improved design, which is not much more complex, but according to KIEV gives a head start to blades.

Note: the two-bladed aircraft does not spin, but jerks; The 4-blade is only slightly smoother, but loses a lot in KIEV. For improvement, 4-troughs are most often carried over two floors - a pair of blades at the bottom, and another pair, rotated 90 degrees horizontally, above them. The KIEV remains, and the lateral loads on the mechanics are weakened, but the bending loads slightly increase, and with a wind of more than 25 m / s, such an APU on the shaft, i.e. without the bearing over the rotor stretched by the shrouds, "tears down the tower".

Daria

The next is the Darrieus rotor; KIEV - up to 20%. It is even simpler: the blades are made of a simple elastic band without any profile. Darrieus's rotor theory has not yet been sufficiently developed. It is only clear that it begins to unwind due to the difference in the aerodynamic resistance of the hump and the pocket of the tape, and then it becomes kind of fast, forming its own circulation.

The torque is small, and in the starting positions of the rotor there is no parallel or perpendicular to the wind at all, so self-spinning is possible only with an odd number of blades (wings?). In any case, the load from the generator must be disconnected during spin-up.

The Darrieus rotor has two more bad qualities. First, during rotation, the thrust vector of the blade describes a complete revolution relative to its aerodynamic focus, and not smoothly, but in jerks. Therefore, the Darrieus rotor quickly breaks its mechanics even in an even wind.

Secondly, Daria is not just making noise, but screaming and squealing, to the point that the tape breaks. This is due to its vibration. And the more blades, the stronger the roar. So, if Daria is made, it is two-bladed, made of expensive high-strength sound-absorbing materials (carbon fiber, mylar), and a small aircraft is adapted for spinning in the middle of the mast-pole.

Orthogonal

On pos. 3 - orthogonal vertical rotor with profiled blades. Orthogonal because the wings stick out vertically. The transition from the VS to the orthogonal is illustrated in Fig. left.

The angle of installation of the blades relative to the tangent to the circle touching the aerodynamic foci of the wings can be either positive (in the figure) or negative, in accordance with the strength of the wind. Sometimes the blades are made swiveling and weather vans are placed on them, automatically holding the "alpha", but such structures often break.

The central body (blue in the figure) allows you to bring the KIEV to almost 50 %.In a three-bladed orthogonal, it should have the shape of a triangle in section with slightly convex sides and rounded corners, and with a larger number of blades, a simple cylinder is sufficient. But the theory for the orthogonal gives the optimal number of blades unambiguously: there should be exactly 3 of them.

Orthogonal refers to high-speed wind turbines with OSS, i.e. necessarily requires promotion during commissioning and after calm. Serial unattended APUs with a capacity of up to 20 kW are produced according to the orthogonal scheme.

Helicoid

Helicoid rotor, or Gorlov's rotor (pos. 4) - a kind of orthogonal, providing uniform rotation; the orthogonal with straight wings “tears” only slightly weaker than the two-bladed BC. The bending of the blades along the helicoid makes it possible to avoid losses of KIEV due to their curvature. Although the curved blade rejects part of the flow without using it, it also rakes part of it into the zone of the highest linear velocity, compensating for the losses. Helicoids are used less often than other wind turbines, because due to the complexity of manufacturing, they turn out to be more expensive than their counterparts of equal quality.

Barrel-zagrebka

5 pos. - BC type rotor surrounded by a guide vanes; its diagram is shown in Fig. on right. It is rarely found in industrial design, because expensive land acquisition does not compensate for the increase in capacity, and the consumption of materials and the complexity of production are great. But a home-builder who is afraid of work is no longer a master, but a consumer, and if no more than 0.5-1.5 kW is needed, then a tidbit for him:

  • A rotor of this type is absolutely safe, silent, does not create vibrations and can be installed anywhere, even on a playground.
  • To bend galvanized troughs and weld a frame from pipes is a nonsense job.
  • The rotation is absolutely uniform, the mechanical parts can be taken from the cheapest or from the trash.
  • Not afraid of hurricanes - too strong wind cannot push into the "barrel"; a streamlined vortex cocoon appears around it (we will encounter this effect later).
  • And most importantly, since the surface of the "grab" is several times larger than that of the rotor inside, the KIEV can be over-unit, and the torque already at 3 m / s at the "barrel" of three-meter diameter is such that a 1 kW generator with a maximum load is it is said that it is better not to twitch.

Video: Lenz wind turbine

In the 60s in the USSR E.S.Biryukov patented a carousel APU with 46% KIEV. A little later, V. Blinov achieved 58% of the design based on the same principle of KIEV, but there is no data on its tests. And full-scale tests of the Armed Forces of Biryukov were carried out by the staff of the Inventor and Rationalizer magazine. A double-deck rotor with a diameter of 0.75 m and a height of 2 m with a fresh wind spun at full power asynchronous generator 1.2 kW and withstood 30 m / s without breaking. Biryukov's APU drawings are shown in Fig.

  1. galvanized roof rotor;
  2. self-aligning double row ball bearing;
  3. cables - 5 mm steel cable;
  4. axle-shaft - steel pipe with a wall thickness of 1.5-2.5 mm;
  5. aerodynamic speed control levers;
  6. speed governor blades - 3-4 mm plywood or plastic sheet;
  7. rods of the speed regulator;
  8. the load of the speed controller, its weight determines the speed;
  9. drive pulley - a bicycle wheel without a tire with a tube;
  10. thrust bearing - thrust bearing;
  11. driven pulley - standard alternator pulley;
  12. generator.

Biryukov received several copyright certificates for his APU. First, notice the cut of the rotor. When accelerating, it works like an aircraft, creating a great starting moment. As the spin progresses, a vortex cushion is created in the outer pockets of the blades. From the wind point of view, the blades become profiled, and the rotor turns into a high-speed orthogonal, with the virtual profile changing according to the wind strength.

Secondly, the profiled channel between the blades in the operating speed range acts as a central body. If the wind increases, then a vortex cushion is also created in it, extending beyond the rotor. The same vortex cocoon appears as around the APU with the guide vanes. The energy for its creation is taken from the wind, and it is no longer enough for the breakdown of the windmill.

Thirdly, the speed controller is designed primarily for the turbine. He keeps her turnover optimal from the point of view of KIEV. And the optimum speed of the generator is provided by the choice of the gear ratio of the mechanics.

Note: after publications in the IR for 1965, the Armed Forces of Ukraine Biryukova sank into oblivion. The author did not receive a response from the authorities. The fate of many Soviet inventions. They say that some Japanese became a billionaire, regularly reading Soviet popular technical magazines and patenting everything that deserves attention.

Blades

As stated above, a horizontal vane-rotor wind turbine is the best in the classics. But, firstly, he needs a stable, at least medium-strength wind. Secondly, the construction for the DIYer is fraught with a lot of pitfalls, which is why often the fruit of long hard work, at best, illuminates the toilet, hallway or porch, or even turns out to be only able to untwist itself.

According to the diagrams in Fig. let's take a closer look; positions:

  • FIG. A:
  1. rotor blades;
  2. generator;
  3. generator bed;
  4. protective weather vane (hurricane shovel);
  5. current collector;
  6. chassis;
  7. swivel knot;
  8. working weather vane;
  9. mast;
  10. clamp for cables.
  • FIG. B, top view:
  1. protective weather vane;
  2. working weather vane;
  3. spring tension regulator of the protective vane.
  • FIG. G, slip ring:
  1. a collector with continuous copper ring busbars;
  2. spring loaded copper-graphite brushes.

Note: hurricane protection for a horizontal vane with a diameter of more than 1 m is absolutely necessary, because he is not capable of creating a vortex cocoon around himself. With smaller dimensions, rotor endurance of up to 30 m / s can be achieved with propylene blades.

So where are the stumbling blocks?

Blades

Expect to achieve a power on the generator shaft of more than 150-200 W on blades of any size, cut from a thick-walled plastic pipe, as is often advised - the hopes of a hopeless dilettante. A pipe blade (unless it is so thick that it is simply used as a blank) will have a segmented profile, i.e. its top, or both, will be circular arcs.

Segment profiles are suitable for an incompressible medium, such as hydrofoils or propeller blades. For gases, a blade of variable profile and pitch is needed, for an example, see fig.; span - 2 m. It will be a complex and time-consuming product that requires painstaking calculation fully armed with theory, blowing in a pipe and full-scale tests.

Generator

When the rotor is mounted directly on its shaft, the standard bearing will soon break - the same load on all blades in wind turbines does not happen. You need an intermediate shaft with a special support bearing and a mechanical transmission from it to the generator. For large wind turbines, a self-aligning double-row bearing is taken; in the best models - three-tiered, Fig. D in Fig. above. This allows the rotor shaft not only to bend slightly, but also to move slightly from side to side or up and down.

Note: it took about 30 years to develop a thrust bearing for the EuroWind APU.

Emergency weather vane

The principle of its operation is shown in FIG. C. The wind, increasing, presses on the shovel, the spring stretches, the rotor twists, its revolutions fall, and in the end it becomes parallel to the flow. Everything seemed to be fine, but it was smooth on paper ...

On a windy day, try holding a boil lid or a large saucepan by the handle parallel to the wind. Only carefully - a fidgety piece of iron can hit the face in such a way that it rubs the nose, cuts the lip, or even knocks out the eye.

Flat wind occurs only in theoretical calculations and, with sufficient accuracy for practice, in wind tunnels. In reality, a hurricane windmills with a hurricane shovel manages more than completely defenseless ones. It is better to change the warped blades after all than to do everything again. In industrial installations, it is a different matter. There, the pitch of the blades, one at a time, is monitored and adjusted by the automation under the control of the on-board computer. And they are made from heavy-duty composites, not from water pipes.

Current collector

This is a regularly serviced site. Any power engineer knows that a collector with brushes needs to be cleaned, lubricated, and regulated. And the mast is made of a water pipe. You will not get in, once a month or two you will have to throw the whole windmill on the ground and then raise it again. How long will it last from such "prevention"?

Video: bladed wind generator + solar panel for power supply of the summer cottage

Mini and micro

But with a decrease in the size of the vane, the difficulties fall along the square of the diameter of the wheel. It is already possible to manufacture a horizontal vane APU on our own for a power of up to 100 W. A 6-blade would be optimal. With more blades, the rotor diameter for the same power will be smaller, but it will be difficult to secure them firmly on the hub. Rotors of less than 6 blades can be ignored: a 100 W 2-blade needs a 6.34 m rotor, and a 4-blade of the same power needs 4.5 m. For a 6-blade, the power - diameter relationship is expressed as follows :

  • 10 W - 1.16 m.
  • 20 W - 1.64 m.
  • 30 W - 2 m.
  • 40 W - 2.32 m.
  • 50 W - 2.6 m.
  • 60 W - 2.84 m.
  • 70 W - 3.08 m.
  • 80 W - 3.28 m.
  • 90 W - 3.48 m.
  • 100 W - 3.68 m
  • 300 W - 6.34 m.

The best will be to count on a power of 10-20 watts. Firstly, a plastic blade with a span of more than 0.8 m will not withstand a wind of more than 20 m / s without additional protection measures. Secondly, with a blade span of up to the same 0.8 m, the linear speed of its ends will not exceed the wind speed by more than three times, and the requirements for profiling with twist are reduced by orders of magnitude; here a "trough" with a segmented profile from a pipe, pos. B in Fig. And 10-20 W will provide power to the tablet, recharge the smartphone or light up the housekeeping light.

Next, select the generator. A Chinese motor is perfect - a wheel hub for electric bicycles, pos. 1 in fig. Its power as a motor is 200-300 W, but in generator mode it will give about 100 W. But will it suit us in terms of turnover?

The speed index z for 6 blades is 3. The formula for calculating the rotational speed under load is N = v / l * z * 60, where N is the rotational speed, 1 / min, v is the wind speed, and l is the rotor circumference. With a blade span of 0.8 m and a wind of 5 m / s, we get 72 rpm; at 20 m / s - 288 rpm. The bicycle wheel rotates at about the same speed, so we will remove our 10-20 watts from a generator capable of giving 100. You can fit the rotor directly onto its shaft.

But here the following problem arises: we, having spent a lot of labor and money, at least for a motor, got ... a toy! What is 10-20, well, 50 watts? And you can't make a bladed windmill capable of powering at least a TV at home. Is it possible to buy a ready-made mini-wind generator, and will it cost less? As much as possible, and even as cheaper, see pos. 4 and 5. In addition, it will also be mobile. Put it on a tree stump - and use it.

The second option is if a stepper motor is lying somewhere from an old 5- or 8-inch drive, or from a paper drive or a carriage of an unusable inkjet or dot-matrix printer. It can work as a generator, and it is easier to attach a carousel rotor from cans (pos. 6) to it than to assemble a structure like that shown in pos. 3.

In general, the conclusion about the "blades" is unambiguous: self-made - more likely in order to tweak to your heart's content, but not for real long-term energy output.

Video: the simplest wind generator for lighting a summer cottage

Sailboats

The sailing wind generator has been known for a long time, but the soft panels of its blades (see Fig.) Began to be made with the advent of high-strength wear-resistant synthetic fabrics and films. Multi-blade windmills with rigid sails are widely distributed around the world as a drive for low-power automatic water pumps, but their technical data are lower even than those of carousels.

However, a soft sail like the wing of a windmill, it seems, turned out to be not so simple. It is not a matter of wind resistance (manufacturers do not limit the maximum permissible wind speed): sailing yachts already know that it is almost impossible for the wind to break the bermuda sails. Rather, the sheet will rip out, or the mast will break, or the whole vessel will make a "turn overkill". It's about energy.

Unfortunately, no precise test data can be found. According to user reviews, it was possible to draw up "synthetic" dependencies for the installation of a wind turbine-4.380 / 220.50 produced in Taganrog with a wind wheel diameter of 5 m, a wind head weight of 160 kg and a rotational speed of up to 40 rpm; they are shown in Fig.

Of course, there can be no guarantees for 100% reliability, but even so it is clear that there is no sign of a flat-mechanistic model here. In no way can a 5-meter wheel on a flat wind of 3 m / s give about 1 kW, at 7 m / s reach a plateau in power and then keep it until a severe storm. Manufacturers, by the way, declare that nominal 4 kW can be obtained at 3 m / s, but when installed by their forces according to the results of local aerology studies.

There is no quantitative theory either; the developers' explanations are obscure. However, since the people buy the Taganrog wind turbines, and they work, it remains to assume that the declared conical circulation and the propulsive effect are not fiction. In any case, they are possible.

Then, it turns out, BEFORE the rotor, according to the law of conservation of momentum, there should also be a conical vortex, but expanding and slow. And such a funnel will drive the wind to the rotor, its effective surface will turn out to be more swept, and KIEV - over-unit.

Light on this question could be shed by field measurements of the pressure field in front of the rotor, at least with a household aneroid. If it turns out to be higher than from the sides to the side, then, indeed, the sailing APUs work like a beetle flies.

Homemade generator

From what has been said above, it is clear that it is better for home-builders to take on either verticals or sailboats. But both are very slow, and transferring to a high-speed generator is unnecessary work, unnecessary costs and losses. Can you make an efficient low-speed electric generator yourself?

Yes, you can, with magnets made of niobium alloy, the so-called. super magnets. The manufacturing process of the main parts is shown in Fig. Coils - each of 55 turns of copper 1 mm wire in heat-resistant high-strength enamel insulation, FEMM, PETV, etc. The height of the windings is 9 mm.

Pay attention to the keyways in the rotor halves. They must be located so that the magnets (they are glued to the magnetic circuit with epoxy or acrylic) after assembly come together with opposite poles. "Pancakes" (magnetic cores) must be made of a soft magnetic ferromagnet; regular structural steel will do. The thickness of the "pancakes" is at least 6 mm.

In general, it is better to buy magnets with an axial hole and tighten them with screws; super magnets attract with terrible force. For the same reason, a cylindrical spacer 12 mm high is put on the shaft between the "pancakes".

The windings that make up the stator sections are connected according to the diagrams also shown in Fig. The soldered ends should not be stretched, but should form loops, otherwise the epoxy that will fill the stator, hardening, can break the wires.

The stator is poured into the mold to a thickness of 10 mm. There is no need to center and balance, the stator does not rotate. The gap between the rotor and the stator is 1 mm on each side. The stator in the generator housing must be securely fixed not only against axial displacement, but also against turning; a strong magnetic field with a current in the load will pull it along.

Video: DIY wind turbine generator

Output

And what do we have in the end? Interest in "blades" is explained rather by their spectacular appearance than by the actual performance in a homemade design and at low power. A self-made carousel APU will provide "standby" power for charging a car battery or supplying power to a small house.

But with the sailing APU, it is worth experimenting with masters with a creative streak, especially in a mini version, with a wheel of 1-2 m in diameter. If the assumptions of the developers are correct, then it will be possible to remove from this, using the Chinese engine-generator described above, all of its 200-300 watts.

Andrey said:

Thank you for your free consultation ... And the prices "from firms" are not really expensive, and I think that artisans from the provinces will be able to make generators similar to yours. And Li-po batteries can be ordered from China, inverters in Chelyabinsk make very good sine) .And sails, blades or rotors - this is another reason for the flight of thought of our handy Russian men.

Ivan said:

question:
For wind turbines with a vertical axis (position 1) and the “Lenz” version, it is possible to add an additional detail - an impeller that is exposed to the wind and closes the useless side from it (going to the wind side). That is, the wind will not slow down the blade, but this “screen”. Setting in the wind with the "tail" located behind the windmill itself below and above the blades (ridges). I read the article and an idea was born.

By clicking the "Add comment" button, I agree to the site.

Many country house owners would like to use alternative energy sources. Residents of city apartments hold a similar opinion due to the constant increase in the cost of electricity. If you wish, you can assemble a simple wind generator and install it on your site.

Legal issues of installing a wind turbine

Before starting work on creating a wind generator with your own hands, you should understand the legality of using this unit. To provide a summer cottage with electricity, it is quite enough to use installations with a capacity not exceeding 1 kW. On the territory of Russia, they are considered household, and their use does not require a permit or certificate.

Also, the state does not provide for additional taxes on energy production for household needs. As a result, you can safely collect wind turbines with your own hands for your home and use free electricity. However, it is worth additionally consulting local authorities authorities for the presence of any legal regulations on this issue.

In addition, one should not exclude the possibility of complaints from neighbors if they begin to experience inconvenience when using this unit. Having decided to assemble a wind generator with your own hands, you should pay attention to several of its parameters:

In addition, claims from environmental services may arise if the wind turbine interferes with the migration of birds. However, such a situation is extremely unlikely.

Principle of operation

A wind generator is a device that converts the kinetic energy of the wind into mechanical energy with its subsequent conversion into electrical energy. This happens due to the rotation of the generator rotor. The unit consists of the following elements:

  • Blades.
  • Turbine rotor.
  • Generator with moving axle.
  • Inverter for converting AC to DC.
  • Rechargeable batteries.

Three forces act on the blades, two of which, lifting and impulse, overcome the third (braking) and set the flywheel in motion. The rotational motion is transmitted to the rotor of the generator, and when it rotates, a magnetic field is created in the stator. As a result, an alternating current appears, which is then converted into direct current using a special controller and charges the battery.

Types of wind generators

Electrical installations of this type are usually classified according to several parameters. One of the main ones here can be considered the number of blades, since the multi-bladed ones begin to work even with a weak wind. Having decided to assemble a wind generator for your home with your own hands, you should remember that the blades can be sail or rigid. The easiest way is to make products of the first type, but they are not very durable and require frequent repairs.

Wind turbines also differ in the location of the axis of rotation - horizontal and vertical. Each of these types has both advantages and disadvantages. If vertical devices are more sensitive, then horizontal ones are high power. The last sign of the classification of wind turbines is a fixed or variable pitch. At home, it is easier to assemble a unit of the first type.

Rotary installation

It is quite simple to assemble such a wind farm with your own hands. At the same time, its capacity will be sufficient to meet all the needs for electrical energy in the garden area.

Preparatory stage

Owners of country houses can safely focus on installations with a capacity of about 1.5 kW. The simplest device will be a unit with a vertical axis of rotation. To create it, you will need the following parts and materials:

In addition, you will need bolts with nuts, a measuring tool, a grinder or metal scissors and a drill.

Manufacturing instruction

The basis of the future unit will be a cylindrical container, for example, a barrel or bucket. It is necessary to apply markings on it, dividing the container into four equal parts. After that, you should cut the metal (not completely) to get the blades. Holes are drilled in the pulley and the bottom of the container, which must be located strictly symmetrically so that an imbalance does not occur during operation.

After that, the blades are bent taking into account the direction of rotation of the generator used, most often in the clockwise direction. It should also be remembered that the bending angle of the blades affects the propeller speed. Having fastened the blades to the pulley, the generator is mounted on the mast using clamps.

The main part of the work is completed on this, and all that remains is to assemble the electrical circuit. To facilitate this task, it is worth sketching a wiring diagram when installing the generator on the mast. To connect the battery, use a 1-meter piece of wire with a cross section of 4 mm 2. In turn, to connect the unit to the network, it is worth using a 2.5 mm 2 conductor. The inverter is also connected with a larger wire.

If all the work was carried out in accordance with the instructions, then the wind turbine will work well, and problems should not arise during its operation. At the same time, the advantages of the rotary installation are much greater than the disadvantages. The latter include only a fairly high sensitivity to strong gusts of wind.

Axial unit

Since the market has become saturated with neodymium magnets, the cost of these products has dropped significantly. As a result, it is possible to assemble an efficient wind turbine on their basis. The basis of the axial generator will be a hub with brake discs from the machine. Before starting work, it must be cleaned, the bearings must be checked and lubricated, and painted.

Installing magnets

In total, you will need about 20 magnets measuring 20x8 mm. More of these products can be used if desired. However, in such a situation, two rules should be followed:

  • If the generator is single-phase, then the number of magnets must correspond to the number of poles.
  • For a three-phase device, the ratio of poles and coils should be 2/3 or 4/3, respectively.

The magnets are simply glued onto the rotor discs, but at the same time their poles should alternate. To do everything right, you should first make a cheat sheet template. Preference should be given to rectangular magnets, since during operation they create a magnetic field along the entire length. It should also be noted that the opposing magnets must have different poles.

Generator type selection

When comparing a single- and three-phase device, the second looks preferable. One of the main disadvantages of a single-phase generator is vibration that occurs during operation. The reason for their appearance lies in the difference in the amplitudes of the current, since its return is uneven. Thanks to phase compensation in the three-phase model, constant power is maintained.

In addition, the efficiency of a single-phase device is about 50% less. The advantages of a 3-phase generator do not end there. Since vibration does not occur during its operation, the noise indicators of the entire wind turbine will be significantly lower. At the same time, do not forget about increasing the service life, if the choice fell on a three-phase generator model.

Making coils

In the windmill being created, the battery charging process should start at a rotor speed of 100-150 rpm. Thus, the total number of turns on all coils is in the range 1000-1200. If these figures are divided by the number of coils used, then the number of turns on each of them can be calculated.

It should be remembered that by increasing the number of poles, the power of the entire installation can be increased when operating at low speeds. The characteristics of a homemade generator are seriously influenced not only by the number of magnets, but also by their thickness. The total power of the generator can be calculated empirically. To do this, after the manufacture of one coil, it should be scrolled in the device and the voltage measured at a certain number of revolutions without load.

Further calculations are quite simple. It can be assumed that with a resistance of 3 ohms at 150 rpm, the output was 27 V. If you subtract the nominal voltage of the battery (in this case, 12 V) from this value, you get 15 volts. To determine the current strength, the result obtained (15 V) must be divided by the coil resistance (3 ohms), which gives 5 amperes. The coils must be fixed together immovably, and the ends of the phases brought out to the outside are connected by a triangle or a star. After assembling the generator, it should be checked for operability.

Final stage of assembly

The average height of the mast should be between 6 and 12 meters, and its base should be concreted. The wind turbine is mounted on the top of the mast and to simplify renovation works it is worthwhile to provide a mechanism for lifting and lowering it, which will be set in motion using a hand winch.

For the manufacture of a propeller, a PVC pipe with a diameter of 160 mm is perfect. The choice of the shape of the blades is carried out empirically, and the main task at this stage is to increase the torque when operating at low speeds. To protect the propeller from strong gusts of wind, it should be equipped with a folding tail.

Each of the considered wind turbine models has certain advantages and disadvantages. They can be quite effective in different regions, but the best results will be obtained in areas with frequent and strong winds.

It is difficult not to notice how the stability of electricity supply to suburban facilities differs from the provision of city buildings and enterprises with electricity. Admit that you, as the owner of a private house or summer cottage, have repeatedly encountered interruptions, inconveniences and damage to equipment associated with them.

The listed negative situations, together with the consequences, will cease to complicate the life of lovers of natural spaces. Moreover, with minimal labor and financial costs. To do this, you just need to make a wind power generator, which we talk about in detail in the article.


The price of electricity is constantly growing and, naturally, each owner tries to optimize the cost of paying for it. Here, all the means are good - from saving means, equipment with a low energy consumption index, energy-saving lamps, and ending with the use of multi-tariff electricity meters. Nevertheless, the prospect of obtaining electricity not from the state, but from nature will always remain tempting. One of the most effective such devices remains a wind generator, which is used in the West on a par, if not more widely, than classical thermal power plants or nuclear power plants.

Generator price and efficiency

Naturally, the most practical solution for generating electricity from wind energy will be a powerful device capable of generating the required amount of energy to supply consumers throughout the house. DIY wind turbines for 220V can be of different capacities and we will consider the principles of manufacturing each possible device from what every zealous owner may have at hand.

But first, it is worthwhile to carry out at least a preliminary calculation of the wind generator and its profitability. For example, a Russian-assembled 800 kW household appliance will cost one and a half thousand US dollars per kilowatt. Expensive. Chinese products that do not differ in reliability and accuracy of ratings will result in $ 900 per 1 kW. Also expensive. Note that this is only the generator itself, no peripheral equipment. This is actually an unaffordable price for a private trader, so we will try to use everything that is at hand and make our own autonomous system.

How to determine the power of a windmill

Calculating the power of a wind generator is a complex and time-consuming process that is applicable to a specific source generator. The easiest option is to use a dynamo from a tractor or car. Such a device does not actually require any modifications and can be used in the power supply system “as is”. Of course, you can talk for a long time about devices with neodymium magnets, only, for example, in the village of Arkhipovka, Oryol Region, they have never been and never will be, and there are a lot of decommissioned tractors.

Vertical or rotary wind turbines?

Blade vertical generators are one of the most popular in the world, however, for their construction, it is necessary to accurately calculate the blade, its shape and size. As the experience of creating such devices by enthusiasts shows, the most efficient blade generators are those with an adjustable blade angle. The average size of each of the six blades is 650x120 mm, and the most effective angle of rotation about its axis is about 12 degrees, although experiments can be performed in each particular case.

A rotary windmill for a house is made with a horizontal axis of the generator, on which the rotor is installed. It can be performed according to several schemes, which are presented below. The easiest option is to make a rotor from a cylindrical container. It could be like plastic barrel, a gas cylinder is, after all, a saucepan. The container should be divided into four segments, each of which is attached to a hub. The hub is mounted on metal carcass, an approximate drawing of which is shown in the figure.

Parts and consumables, electrical diagram

A low-power wind turbine for a home can be assembled with a modest set of used devices and parts:

car battery, the fresher and the larger the capacity, the better,

inverter for 300-700 W,

car or tractor charging relay (depending on the generator voltage),

control device (voltmeter),

To connect the device with the mains, wires with a cross-section of at least 4 mm² are used. The finished installation is connected according to the diagram shown in the photo through fuses 8, which is opened by switch 9 for maintenance and repair. The value of the resistor 1 is selected empirically, and the ammeter 5 can be installed at the output of the converter 5 at will. Also, for the convenience of using the structure, a variable resistor 4 can be used to adjust the voltage. A more detailed diagram of the inverter is presented below.

In this way, a wind turbine can be assembled to meet the minimum electricity requirement. Spend and produce energy wisely, good luck to everyone!

DIY 220V wind turbines
Do-it-yourself 220V wind turbines The price of electricity is constantly growing and, naturally, each owner is trying to optimize the cost of paying for it. All means are good here - from


A wind generator or, among the common people, a wind turbine is a simple device that provides its owner with considerable savings due to the generation of free electricity. Such an installation is the dream of any owner of a plot cut off from centralized networks or a summer resident who is dissatisfied with a newly received receipt for electricity consumption.

Having understood the design of a wind generator, the principle of its operation, having studied the drawings, you can independently make and install a wind turbine, providing your home with unlimited alternative energy.

Summary of the article:

Is it legal to use wind?

Creating your own, albeit compact, but power plant is a serious thing, so it is logical that the question involuntarily arises: is their use legal? Yes, if the power of the installation launched from the wind does not exceed 1 kW, which is quite enough to provide an average country house with electric current.

The fact is that it is with this power indicator that the device is considered household and does not require mandatory registration, certification, approval, registration and, moreover, is not subject to any tax.

However, before you make a wind generator for your home, it is better to protect yourself and take into account a few points:

  • Are there any special restrictions on the use of alternative energy sources in the region of residence?
  • What is the permissible mast height on the terrain?
  • Will the noise from the gearbox and blades exceed the established standards?
  • Should there be protection against airborne interference?
  • Will the mast interfere with bird migration or cause other environmental problems?

If you think over all the nuances in advance, then neither the tax, nor the environmental services, nor the neighbors will be able to make claims and prevent the receipt of free electricity.

How does a wind turbine work?

In the photo, ready-made homemade wind turbines are represented by elongated metal structures on three or four supports, with blades moving from the wind. As a result, the kinetic energy received by the wind flow is converted into mechanical energy, which in turn starts the rotor and becomes an electric current.

This process is the result of the well-established work of several mandatory components of a wind power plant (WPP):

  • Propeller with two or more blades,
  • Turbine rotor,
  • Reducer,
  • Controller,
  • Electric generator axis and generator,
  • Inverter,
  • Battery.

It is also necessary to provide a braking unit, a nacelle, a mast, a weather vane, a low and high speed shaft. The device also determines the principle of operation of the wind generator: a rotating rotor produces a three-phase alternating current that passes through the controller system and charges the DC battery.

The final amperes are converted by the inverter and routed through connected wiring to output points: outlets, lights, appliances, and electrical appliances.

How to do it yourself?

The most reliable and simpler design is considered to be a rotary wind turbine, which is an installation with a vertical axis of rotation. A ready-made home-made generator of this type is able to fully provide the energy consumption of the cottage, including the equipment of the living quarters, outbuildings and street lighting (though not too bright).

To make a wind turbine, you will need structural parts, consumables and tools. The first step is to find suitable components of the windmill, many of which can be found among old stocks:

  • Generator from a car with a power of about 12 V,
  • 12 V rechargeable battery,
  • Semi-hermetic pushbutton switch,
  • Inventor,
  • Car relay used to charge the battery.

You will also need consumables:

  • Fasteners (bolts, nuts, insulating tape),
  • Steel or aluminum container,
  • Wiring with a cross section of 4 sq. mm (two meters) and 2.5 sq. mm (one meter),
  • Mast, tripod and other elements to enhance stability,
  • Strong rope.

It is advisable to find, study and print drawings of wind generators with your own hands. You will also need tools, including a grinder, a meter, pliers, a drill, a sharp knife, an electric drill, screwdrivers (cross, minus, indicator) and wrenches.

Having prepared everything you need, you can start assembling, focusing on the step-by-step instructions telling how to make a wind generator with your own hands:

  • Cut out blades of the same size from a metal container, leaving an untouched strip of metal a few centimeters at the base.
  • Make holes symmetrically with a drill for the existing bolts in the bottom of the tank base and the alternator pulley.
  • Bend the blades.
  • Fix the blades to the pulley.
  • Install and secure the generator to the mast with clamps or rope, stepping back from the top about ten centimeters.
  • Establish wiring (to connect the battery, a meter-long core with a cross section of 4 sq. Mm is enough, for a load of lighting and electrical appliances - 2.5 sq. Mm).
  • Mark the wiring diagram, color and letter coding for future repairs.
  • Install the transmitter with a quarter wire.
  • If necessary, decorate the structure with a weather vane and paint.
  • Secure the wires by wrapping the installation mast.

Do-it-yourself wind generators for 220 Volts are an opportunity to provide a summer cottage or a country house with free electricity in the shortest possible time. Even a beginner can set up such an installation, and most of the parts for the structure have long been idle in the garage.

Online home master assistant
How to use the wind for your own purposes and how a wind generator works with your own hands. How a modern windmill works and how to make it yourself. Photos of the best and simplest models.



The principle of operation of a household wind farm is simple: the air flow rotates the rotor blades mounted on the generator shaft and creates an alternating current in its windings.

The inexhaustible energy that air masses carry with them has always attracted the attention of people. Our great-grandfathers learned to harness the wind into the sails and wheels of windmills, after which it rushed aimlessly across the vast expanses of the Earth for two centuries.

A useful job was found for him again today. A wind generator for a private house from the category of technical innovations is becoming a real factor in our life.

Let's take a closer look at wind farms, assess the conditions for their cost-effective use and consider the existing varieties. Home craftsmen will receive in our article information for reflection on the topic of self-assembly of a windmill and the devices necessary for it effective work.

What is a wind turbine?

The principle of operation of a household wind farm is simple: the air flow rotates the rotor blades mounted on the generator shaft and creates an alternating current in its windings. The resulting electricity is stored in batteries and consumed by household appliances as needed. Of course, this is a simplified diagram of how a home wind turbine works. In practical terms, it is complemented by devices that convert electricity.

There is a controller immediately behind the generator in the energy chain. It converts three-phase alternating current into direct current and directs it to charge the batteries. Majority household appliances cannot work from a "constant", therefore another device is placed behind the batteries - inverter.

It does the opposite: transforms D.C. in a household alternating voltage of 220 volts.

It is clear that these transformations do not pass without leaving a trace and take a fairly decent part of the initial energy (15-20%).

If the windmill is paired with solar battery or another generator of electricity (gasoline, diesel), then the circuit is supplemented with an automatic switch (ATS). When the main power supply is disconnected, it activates the backup one.

For maximum power, the wind generator must be positioned along the wind stream. In simple systems, the weather vane principle is implemented.

For this, a vertical blade is fixed at the opposite end of the generator, which turns it towards the wind.

In more powerful installations, there is a rotary electric motor controlled by a direction sensor.

The main types of wind turbines and their features

There are two types of wind turbines:

  1. With horizontal rotor.
  2. With a vertical rotor.

The first type is the most common. It is characterized by high efficiency (40-50%), but has an increased level of noise and vibration. In addition, its installation requires a large free space (100 meters) or a high mast (from 6 meters).

Generators with a vertical rotor are less energy efficient (efficiency is almost 3 times lower than that of horizontal ones).

Their advantages include simple installation and structural reliability. Low noise level allows vertical generators to be installed on rooftops and even at ground level. These installations are not afraid of icing and hurricanes.

They are launched from a weak wind (from 1.0-2.0 m / s), while a horizontal wind turbine needs an air flow of medium strength (3.5 m / s and above). In the form of the impeller (rotor), vertical wind generators are very diverse.

Due to the low rotor speed (up to 200 rpm), the mechanical resource of such installations significantly exceeds the performance of horizontal wind generators.

How to calculate and select a wind generator?

Wind is not natural gas pumped through pipes, nor is it electricity flowing uninterruptedly through wires to our home. He is capricious and fickle. Today a hurricane rips off roofs and breaks trees, and tomorrow it gives way to complete calm.

Therefore, before buying or self-production a wind turbine needs to assess the potential of air energy in your area. To do this, you should determine the average annual wind strength. This value can be found on the Internet upon request.

Having received such a table, we find the area of ​​our residence and look at the intensity of its color, comparing it with the rating scale. If the average annual wind speed turns out to be less than 4.0 meters per second, then it makes no sense to install a wind turbine. It will not provide the required amount of energy.

If the wind strength is sufficient to install a wind farm, then you can proceed to the next step: selecting the power of the generator.

If we are talking about autonomous power supply at home, then the average electricity consumption by 1 family is taken into account. It ranges from 100 to 300 kWh per month. In regions with a low annual wind potential (5-8 m / s), such an amount of electricity can be generated by a 2-3 kW wind turbine.

It should be borne in mind that s my average wind speed is higher, therefore, energy production during this period will be greater than in summer.

DIY windmill. Fun or real savings?

Let's say right away that making a wind generator with your own hands full and efficient is not easy. Competent calculation of the wind wheel, transmission mechanism, selection of a generator suitable for power and speed is a separate topic. We will give only brief recommendations on the main stages of this process.

Generator

Automotive generators and electric motors from direct drive washing machines are not suitable for this purpose. They are capable of generating energy from the wind wheel, but it will be negligible. For efficient operation, autogenerators need very high speeds that a wind turbine cannot develop.

Washer motors have a different problem. There are ferrite magnets there, and for a wind generator more productive ones are needed - niodimium. Process them self-assembly and winding live windings requires patience and high precision.

The power of a self-assembled device, as a rule, does not exceed 100-200 watts.

Recently, motor-wheels for bicycles and scooters have become popular among home-builders.

From a wind energy standpoint, these are powerful neodymium generators that are optimally suited for working with vertical wind wheels and charging batteries. Up to 1 kW of wind energy can be removed from such a generator.

Screw

The easiest to make are sail and rotor propellers. The first consists of lightweight curved tubes attached to a central plate. Blades made of durable fabric are pulled over each tube. The large windage of the propeller requires a hinged attachment of the blades so that during a hurricane they fold and do not deform.

The rotary wind wheel structure is used for vertical generators. It is easy to manufacture and reliable in operation.

Wind turbines for the home: types, do-it-yourself manufacturing
The principle of operation of a household wind farm is simple: the air flow rotates the rotor blades mounted on the generator shaft and creates a variable in its windings.

A wind generator made from a car generator can help in a situation where there is no possibility of connecting to a power line in a private house. Or it will serve as an auxiliary source of alternative energy. Such a device can be made with your own hands from scrap materials, using the work of folk craftsmen. Photos and videos will demonstrate the process of creating a homemade wind turbine.

There is a huge species variety of wind turbines and drawings for their manufacture. But any design includes the following required elements:

  • generator;
  • blades;
  • storage battery;
  • mast;
  • the electronic unit.

With some skills, you can make a wind generator with your own hands.

In addition, it is necessary to think over in advance the control and distribution system of electricity, draw an installation diagram.

Wind wheel

The blades are perhaps the most important part of a wind turbine. The operation of the remaining units of the device will depend on the design. They are made from different materials. Even from a plastic sewer pipe. The blades from the pipe are easy to manufacture, are cheap and are not affected by moisture. The manufacturing procedure for the wind turbine is as follows:

  1. It is necessary to calculate the length of the blade. The pipe diameter should be equal to 1/5 of the total footage. For example, if the blade is a meter long, then a pipe with a diameter of 20 cm will do.
  2. We cut the pipe lengthwise into 4 parts with a jigsaw.
  3. We make a wing from one part, which will serve as a template for cutting out subsequent blades.
  4. Smooth the burrs at the edges with an abrasive.
  5. The blades are fixed to an aluminum disc with welded strips for fastening.
  6. Next, a generator is screwed to this disk.

Wind wheel blades

After assembly, the wind wheel needs balancing. It is fixed horizontally on a tripod. The operation is carried out in a closed room from the wind. In case of correct balancing, the wheel should not move. If the blades rotate themselves, then they need to be sharpened until the whole structure is balanced.

Only after successful completion of this procedure, you should proceed to checking the accuracy of rotation of the blades, they should rotate in the same plane without skewing. An error of 2 mm is allowed.


Generator assembly diagram

Mast

An old one is suitable for making a mast water pipe with a diameter of at least 15 cm, a length of about 7 m. If there are buildings within 30 m from the proposed installation site, then the height of the structure is adjusted upward. For efficient operation of the wind turbine, the blade is raised above the obstacle by at least 1 m.

The base of the mast and the pegs for securing the guy ropes are concreted. Clamps with bolts are welded to the stakes. For stretch marks, a galvanized 6 mm cable is used.

Advice. The assembled mast has a considerable weight; for manual installation, you will need a counterweight from a pipe with a load.

Alteration of the generator

For the manufacture of a wind turbine generator, a generator from any car is suitable. Their designs are similar to each other, and the alteration is reduced to rewinding the stator wire and making a rotor on neodymium magnets. Holes are drilled in the rotor poles to fix the magnets. Install them by alternating poles. The rotor is wrapped in paper, and the voids between the magnets are filled with epoxy.


Car generator

In the same way, you can remake an engine from an old washing machine. Only magnets in this case are glued at an angle to avoid sticking.

The new winding is rewound along the coil onto the stator tooth. You can make a loose winding, it's as convenient as anyone. The more the number of turns, the more efficient the generator will be. The coils are wound in one direction in a three-phase scheme.

A ready-made generator is worth trying out and measuring the data. If at 300 rpm the generator produces about 30 volts, this is a good result.


Generator for wind turbine from car generator

Final assembly

The generator frame is welded from a profile pipe. The tail is made of galvanized sheet metal. The pivot shaft is a tube with two bearings. The generator is attached to the mast in such a way that the distance from the blade to the mast is at least 25 cm. For safety reasons, it is worth choosing a windless day for the final assembly and installation of the mast. The blades under the influence of strong wind can bend and break on the mast.

To use batteries to power equipment that operates from a 220 V network, you will need to install a voltage conversion inverter. The battery capacity is selected individually for the wind generator. This indicator depends on the wind speed on the ground, the power of the connected equipment and the frequency of its use.


Wind generator device

To prevent the battery from being damaged by overcharging, you will need a voltage controller. You can make it yourself if you have sufficient knowledge in electronics, or you can buy a ready-made one. There are many controllers on the market for alternative energy mechanisms.

Advice. To prevent the blade from breaking in strong winds, a simple device is installed - a protective weather vane.

Wind turbine maintenance

A wind generator, like any other device, needs technical control and maintenance. For the smooth operation of the windmill, the following work is periodically carried out.


The scheme of the wind generator
  1. The current collector requires the most attention. Generator brushes need cleaning, lubrication and maintenance adjustments every two months.
  2. At the first signs of a blade malfunction (shaking and imbalance of the wheel), the wind generator is lowered to the ground and repaired.
  3. Once every three years, metal parts are coated with anti-corrosion paint.
  4. The fastenings and the tension of the cables are regularly checked.

Now that the installation is complete, you can connect devices and use electricity. At least as long as it is windy.

DIY wind turbine generator: video

Throughout the entire time of its development, mankind has made, both insignificant and colossal, literally changing cognitive and objective reality and perceptions of discoveries based on the widest spectrum of existing laws on planet Earth. All of them, in one way or another, were conditioned by certain factors and were the fruits of needs and the need to improve, create, change, adjust for themselves. Based on this, today they literally came to the conclusion that there are strictly individual needs in the use of already modern and effective devices and mechanisms that allow you to get the most out of everything that surrounds. It will be about such a device as a wind turbine (among the people - a wind blower, a wind blower), as well as how to still make it with your own hands, spending a minimum of energy and money, and getting the maximum result.

What is a wind generator

The well-known computer game Minecraft, where wind generators are revealed in all their qualities, can be an excellent example for the presentation of a wind generator and its action. Arranged average mini-generator in a certain way.


All wind generators in their essence are differentiated into the following main types:

  1. One of the most common are rotary (vertical) wind generators operating on the basis of vertical axial rotation, carried out using a rotor and blades.
  2. Vane-type wind generators are a horizontal axial rotation mechanism carried out with the help of a so-called wheel and, as a rule, has a propeller in its system.
  3. Less often, you can also stumble upon drum wind generators, which are, in essence, a subspecies of rotary and operating on the same principles, but in a horizontal plane.

Of course, the first pictures that come to mind when the image of a wind generator appears are rotating blades, a propeller, a tail, a turbine or, as it is also called, a wind turbine, the so-called rotor.

The key link in all activities is a generator, a mast, batteries, an inverter connected to the mains, a multiplier (gearbox, if necessary) and a weather vane.

How to make a windmill with your own hands

Vertical wind turbines are the most efficient and easy to manufacture and operate, which makes them quite widespread, whether spiral or straight mechanism.

Of great importance is both the purpose of creating a wind generator and the area on which it will be installed, from which one should build on when planning.

There are basic points that require mandatory attention when creating a wind generator. The first thing that needs to be determined is, of course, the engine of all progress, the heart of the entire system - a generator that can be purchased or made by yourself, which, in essence, requires a certain skill and skill, however, with the proper desire, you can cope with a beginner ... Depending on your goal, you want a serious 10kW, 5kW (5kW) or less powerful 12V device, or a smaller and simpler bicycle wind turbine used as an electrical installation on the balcony of an apartment.

The visor can be equipped with almost any generator:

  • Whether it is a well-known rural tractor generator;
  • Detail from an old computer or mainframe;
  • Or maybe it's a low-noise car motor;
  • The element of the washing machine engine, only its performance matters.

Next, we decide on the blades - those very rotating objects that resemble the blades of a mill. The blades can also be made from a large number of materials, the most promising and common of which are, for example, plywood, plastic, sometimes tin (barrel edges, for example), PVC material, and so on. When manufacturing, all significant factors should be taken into account - both the influence of centrifugal force and the size of the blades, wind flow on the ground and others. It is most rational to create a vane-like character, due to an increase in efficiency, by influencing the distribution of the wind flow.

The next step is the manufacture of a device for determining the speed and direction of the wind - a weather vane. It is something like a metal flag that changes its position in accordance with the currents of the wind. Almost any relatively strong but light metal layer can be used as a weather vane.

Mast - a wide range of improvised means can also be used in its role, for example, a strong water pipe. It is quite possible to make a home-made wind turbine (homemade products) yourself, as already described, from the maximum available means, and the power of the wind turbine depends on the materials used and the thoughtfulness of use in specific conditions. The simplest representative of such devices is quite capable of creating electricity for lighting a room, charging devices, and, if desired, even for providing the basic needs of a relatively small country house.

Selection of a generator for a wind turbine

The generator is the most important element of the entire installation, without which it is impossible to create a single volt of electricity. It is quite possible to make a low-speed generator on your own from improvised means, but all the elements should be selected for specific purposes, because if we are talking about a powerful installation, then rather serious details are needed here.


The generator includes:

  1. A rotor is a moving element in a mechanism that performs a circulating function, and also on which a device is located, which receives energy from a source (body).
  2. A stator is a closely interconnected element with a rotor, which is stationary, assembled, if we are talking about a generator, from metal sheets connected to each other, and on which an inductor is placed (metal winding).
  3. Neodymium magnets with induction function.

At the same time, to perform the function of a generator, depending on the purpose, you can use almost any operable mechanism, be it the remains of a tractor engine or an electric motor from a printer or a fan starter.

It is important how the copper electric wire is selected.

If we are talking about making a generator from scratch, then elements are needed here. The hub is the middle part of the wheel, a metal base for the future motor. Neodymium magnets in certain quantities and sizes. You need metal discs on which magnets will be attached, polyester resin or another magnetic layer capable of fixing and gluing, a thick layer of paper, plywood.

DIY wind turbines for 220V

It is quite possible to make a 220-volt wind generator yourself, and even this is far from the limit of possibilities, with the proper desire and the availability of the necessary materials.

Distinctive features of generators with relatively significant power to small ones with low power are:

  1. Of course, a more powerful power plant requires more reliable, durable parts and components, as well as a stronger wind.
  2. Also, when creating and maintaining wind generators with a capacity sufficient to maintain at least one large electrical household appliance, a mandatory element is a battery used to store excess energy on it.
  3. It should be borne in mind that for a larger amount of energy, a more serious control system is required, which necessitates the integration of a control unit, including voltage stabilizers in their system, into such wind turbines.
  4. For more serious and non-compact systems, a corresponding stable installation is required.

From the latter, the need for a foundation follows, at least in the form of small prepared and filled holes in order to install a model in them. Also, axial generators are devoid of sticking properties, or, as they say, a starting point, due to which even the slightest wind can move blades of such a device.

For the rest, 220 V wind turbines (including their manufacture) practically do not differ from other representatives and obey general rules stated above.

The most common wind generator, the basis of which is an axial system of wind turbines, based on the use of neodymium magnets in it, which have won their high place in the market due to their quality, durability and availability.

Stages of building wind turbines for a house with your own hands

If we talk about a suburban area of ​​a summer residence or a manor, but it should be understood that the greater the need, the greater the cost. Especially if we bear in mind the purpose of heating or the constant maintenance of all household appliances, the labor intensity and maintenance of such a device, even if it is one of the most profitable.


The wind turbine, as already covered above, may well serve as the main source of electricity, even for the whole house.

If we compare with close analogs, for example, a solar source is in many ways inferior to wind turbines, because the sun does not happen every day, and an electric generator is even worse than a wind generator in economic and environmental terms.

The main components of a wind generator for a home (to Of course, speaking about a wind generator for a home, it should be understood that all the basic elements are needed

  • Stator, rotor, inductor, which are the main components of the generator;
  • Batteries for energy storage;
  • Wind catcher, when it comes to low wind areas.

In addition, in the manufacture you can also use the principles of inventions of the Armed Forces of Sklyarov, Biryukov or Tretyakov, which will significantly increase the rationalism and benefits of using the system and, for comfort, reduce noise effects.

Instructions: how to make a wind generator with your own hands

The process of making a wind generator is creative and how it will be arranged depends only on the master. There is no universal instruction, since each design is a combination of various parts and other factors of each particular case.

Everything is done with the help of basic tools - a screwdriver, hammer, grinder and others.

The first thing to do in the manufacture of a wind generator is to determine the goal and make basic calculations, drawings, determine the location, and so on. Next, you should assemble and fix the blades, the tail to the battery (connect to the generator).

The main and most optimal, tested and detailed instructions for making a wind generator with your own hands:

  1. Make a generator from pre-prepared parts - 2 prepared metal pancakes with neodymium magnets are fastened against each other, between which a stator with a copper winding already available on it is inserted.
  2. A support (bracket) is installed on the mast (pipe), and a hub above it.
  3. Next, a generator should be installed on the hub, after which the stator must be connected to the support.
  4. A wind turbine is installed on the other part.

Concrete and build the base of the structure in order to stabilize it in strong winds, having calculated the main parameters, because for a significant installation, the step distance may not be enough.

The advantages of a homemade wind turbine

In conclusion, it should be noted that a homemade wind generator is an excellent, modern and more affordable source of energy every day, spreading at an incredible speed. The main advantages of a wind generator, which cannot be attributed to electric generators based on a gas generator, are high efficiency, availability, efficiency, ease of installation and operation, modernity, most are low-noise, environmentally friendly.

Wind turbines today are a promising and increasingly effective and gaining momentum for generating electricity, while being comparatively economical and quite affordable, even for making such a device with your own hands.

DIY wind generator: 4 kW (video)

Homemade wind turbines are a great way to learn something new, try a new business, and also make an affordable and easy way to provide a house with electricity in the simplest home conditions.