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Home, design, renovation, decor. Yard and garden. With your own hands

» How to install a plastic window. We install plastic windows in our house ourselves

How to install a plastic window. We install plastic windows in our house ourselves

If you or someone you know has previously used the services of companies installing double-glazed windows, then you know that installation can be normal and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, the quality will be much higher than in the first (you can read more about the standards in GOST 30971-02).

Consists of several stages.

Note! Manufacturers do not provide a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. If installed incorrectly, the windows will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, the structure simply will not fit into the opening.

However, if you study all the intricacies of the process, then no difficulties will arise during installation. Moreover, this way you can save a decent amount of money.

Video - Installation of PVC windows according to GOST

Stage 1. Measurements

In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.

Note! A quarter is an internal frame 6 cm wide (or ¼ brick, hence the name) that prevents the window from falling out and strengthens the structure as a whole.

If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on anchors, and the foam will be covered with special covers. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the internal and external widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.


  1. First, the width of the opening is determined (the distance between the slopes). It is recommended to remove the plaster for a more accurate result.
  2. Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope above and the window sill).

Note! The measurements must be repeated several times and the lowest result taken.

To determine the width of the window, two installation gaps are subtracted from the width of the opening. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the height of the profile for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.


The symmetry and straightness of the opening are checked, for which a mounting level and plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.

To determine the width of the drainage, add 5 cm to the existing drainage for bending. Also, the width of the insulation and cladding is taken into account (subject to subsequent finishing of the facade).


The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the width of the opening is added to the size of the overhang, and the width of the frame is subtracted from the resulting figure. Regarding the offset, it should cover the heating radiator by a third.

Note! measured after installation is complete.

Stage 2. Order

After measurements, the finished drawing should be taken to the window manufacturer, where all the necessary fittings will be selected. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:


In the first option, you will have to pull the package out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached as a whole. Each option has disadvantages - if you pull out the package, it can; and vice versa, if the window is installed assembled, it can be damaged due to its heavy weight.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Stage 3. Preparation

This stage of installation begins only after delivery of the ordered windows. First, the workplace is cleared, all furniture is covered with plastic wrap (there will be a lot of dust).

Step 1. If required, the glass unit is removed from the window. To do this, the glazing bead is slightly pryed with a staple and pulled out. First of all, the vertical beads are removed, then the horizontal ones. They must be numbered, otherwise gaps will form after installation.




Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the canopies. The handle is turned to the “ventilation mode” (in the center), the window is opened slightly and removed. All that remains is the frame with imposts.

Note! Imposts are special jumpers designed to separate the sashes.

Then you need to make a marking for the anchors and make holes along it - two on the bottom/top and three on each side. To do this, you will need ø1 cm anchors and a drill of the required diameter.

If the material from which the walls are made is not dense (for example, cellular concrete), then fastening is carried out using anchor suspensions. The latter should be fixed to the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight pieces for each).

Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it should be filled the day before installation. This way the element will not freeze.

Stage 4. Dismantling work

This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before installing a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be torn out along with the fastening, and if necessary, the frame can be sawed.



Step 1. First, the seal and thermal insulation are removed.

Step 3. The window sill is removed and the cement layer underneath is cleaned off.

Step 4. Adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer material (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.



Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒC. Polyurethane foam must be frost-resistant.

Stage 5. Installation of a plastic window

Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (this will make it easier to level the structure), only after this is it fastened to the wall. You can leave the backings - they will serve as additional fasteners.


Step 2. The absence of a support profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install a low sill with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.

The correct location of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.


Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which a mounting level and plumb line are used. It is typical that traditional bubble levels are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, so it is better to use.



Step 4. If the window is level, then it is secured with anchors. To do this, a wall is drilled using a hammer drill through pre-prepared holes in the structure (approximately 6-10 cm). The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the evenness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.

Note! The final screed is made only after the final inspection. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the structure will “skew”.

Prices for mounting foams and cleaning gun cleaners

Polyurethane foams and cleaners for construction guns

Stage 6. Drainage


From the outside, the ebb is attached to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture from penetrating into the structure.


The edges of the ebb are recessed several centimeters into the walls, having previously made indentations using a hammer drill.

Note! Before installation, the bottom gap is also sealed.

Stage 7. Window assembly


After attaching the anchors, the glass unit is inserted back.

Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber hammer).

Step 2. The doors are opened and their tightness is checked. In the open position, arbitrary opening/closing of the sash cannot happen if the window is installed level.

Step 3. The assembly seam is sealed on the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and prevent glass fogging. Before and after sealing, the seams are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.

Note! The seams are filled to no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will “lead.” If everything is done correctly, after drying the foam will protrude out a few centimeters.

Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and material with a foil surface is used underneath.

Stage 8. Installation of the window sill


Step 1. The window sill is cut so that it fits into the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. Subsequently, the gap is hidden by plastic

Step 2. Wooden wedges are placed under the window sill. It needs to be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.


Video - Instructions for installing plastic windows

conclusions

Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after completion of installation (then the foam will have already “set”).

The described technology is also quite applicable to, although it also has its own nuances - such as, for example, installing a parapet to create a partition.








Find out how to do it correctly from our new article.

Plastic windows are considered aesthetic, functional, reliable and high-quality structures. Thanks to these qualities, they have become widespread. Currently, plastic windows continue to gain popularity. Installation of structures is usually carried out by the company where the order was made. Experts, of course, know how to properly install metal-plastic windows. To carry out the work, professionals have all the necessary tools at their disposal.

Before installing plastic windows, measurements are taken. They are also carried out by specialists from the selected company. It is not recommended to do this work yourself. This is due to the fact that the block will be made along the opening. Errors in measurement can lead to the structure not being level, or difficulties arising with its fastening. But if it is best to entrust the measurements to a professional, then the installation of the module can be carried out by a home craftsman himself. How to install a plastic window correctly? Let's find out in the article.

General information

Previously, it was believed that installing a plastic window with your own hands was very difficult. As a rule, this matter was entrusted to a professional. Nevertheless, now many consumers decide to install a plastic window themselves. Do-it-yourself installation allows you to significantly reduce costs - up to 70 USD. e. But at the same time, fastening the structure requires certain knowledge. Next, we will analyze step by step how to properly install a plastic window.

Preliminary size calculation

The decision to install a plastic window with your own hands is a very responsible one. In this case, the correct selection of design and quality of work are of great importance. Before installing metal-plastic windows, measurements should be taken, as already noted.

Important Features

It should be noted that there are two types of window openings. There is one with a quarter, and there is one without it. A quarter of a window opening is a kind of protrusion that stretches along the entire perimeter of the window. To accurately determine the size, you need to take these features into account. Let's take a closer look at them.

Quarter design

In this case, the size of the window block can be determined using the following algorithm. It is necessary to measure the width of the corresponding opening between the quarters. This should be done in the narrowest place. Up to 40 mm should be added to the resulting measurements. This will give you the width of the structure. Additional verification is also necessary. In this case, the width of the window opening and the distance between its vertical quarters are compared. The first must be greater than the second.

The height of the window is also easy to measure. To do this, it is necessary to calculate the distance from the upper quarter to the lower plane of the opening. The required value will be the resulting size.

Second option

In this case, we mean a window that will be installed in an opening without a quarter. Obtaining the dimensions is quite easy. To do this, you need to subtract 50 mm from the vertical size of the opening. This is done so that it is possible to install a window sill. Also, you need to subtract 30 mm from the size of the horizontal opening. In addition, it is necessary to determine the size of the window sill and ebb. It doesn't take much effort to do this. However, certain factors need to be taken into account:

  • The width of the ebb is calculated taking into account the proposed cladding or insulation of the enclosing structures. It is required that it protrudes from the plane of the wall at a distance of up to 100 mm.
  • The width of the window sill should be calculated taking into account its functional features. For example, some will want to install flower pots and so on. Basically, the element is selected so that its free part can cover the heating radiators.
  • The length of the window sill is calculated to be approximately 100 mm greater than the width of the window opening. Thus, the edges of the window sill should go into the cavity of the slope. The recommended minimum is 50 mm.

Module

The next step is to place an order in a specialized store. First of all, you should specify the size of the appropriate block. It is also necessary to take into account the following indicators:

  1. Type of window profile.
  2. Type of glass unit.
  3. Fastening elements.
  4. Related accessories.

Dismantling works

Before installing PVC windows, the opening should be prepared. It is impossible to begin installation work in the premises being used without removing old structures. It is worth noting that this procedure requires accuracy and thoroughness. There is a very high risk of injury. In addition, it is necessary to ensure that the product does not fall out. This becomes especially relevant in high-rise buildings.

Algorithm for removing the old structure

  • First of all, you need to free the window block from the opening windows and sashes.
  • The structure must be free of all glass. In this case, all retaining beads are first removed.
  • Next, you need to make cuts in the horizontal and vertical elements of the frame. It is advisable to use a hacksaw or grinder that has a cutting wheel for concrete.
  • Then you need to remove the structure from the opening. To do this, you can use available tools such as a pry bar, crowbar or hammer.
  • In certain situations, the structure can be removed without deformation. In particular, this applies to cases where the consumer wants to maintain the integrity of the frame. It is worth noting that this removal option will require great skill. Moreover, this process will take quite a long time.
  • The frame is not the only element that needs to be removed. This also needs to be done with the external ebb and window sill.
  • At the final stage, the opening should be cleared of dust and construction debris.

Installation diagram

Following the technology, it is enough to simply fix the plastic window. Do-it-yourself installation is carried out in several stages. In this case, it will be necessary to implement a number of relevant measures.

Initial stage

Before installing PVC windows, you should prepare the structure. This applies in particular to the mounting plates. They should be located on the top and sides of the frame (towards the end). The mounting plates play a very important role. In the future, they will hold the entire structure in a given position. Most experts prefer to use suspensions for these purposes. They, in turn, are widely used in the installation of plasterboard systems. However, in this case, the most correct is the use of reinforcing mounting plates. The fact is that they are distinguished by great mechanical strength.

Indispensable screws

Care is required when installing mounting strips. They are fixed on the end of the frame. It is necessary to ensure that the fastening element fits into the metal profile of the window unit. At this stage, it is very important to prevent deformation of the glass unit. The plates are attached using self-tapping screws. They are selected taking into account the size of the window block.

The standard design involves the use of self-tapping screws that will have a diameter of 4 mm. A larger window unit requires other fasteners. In this case, it is advisable to use products with a diameter of up to 6 mm. The anchor strips must be fixed at the end of the frame. The recommended spacing for their location is up to 80 cm. The distance from the corners of the structure should be within 100-150 mm.

Adjusting the position of the structure

Speaking about how to properly install a PVC window, we should also talk about the alignment of the module. This is carried out after preparing the window block. This procedure may seem quite simple at first glance. However, a lot depends on the correctness of its implementation. It is best to install the unit in pairs. One person will support the structure while the other will carry out the procedure. Aligning the window frame involves installing the block in a pre-prepared opening. It is also recommended to take care of the wedges in advance. They help regulate the position of the module.

Key points of adjustment

When performing work, you must be guided by the following recommendations:

  1. The structure is wedged not only in the lower part. This is also done on the sides.
  2. All vertical elements must be aligned in the same plane.
  3. If there is an impost, then the wedges should be located under it.

The PVC window is leveled. After this, the process of fixing it begins. Anchor plates are attached to the cavity of the window opening. This is done using special bolts and dowels. It is very important that the elements are fixed to the enclosing structures. Therefore, it may be necessary to remove the plaster that is located where the anchor plates will be located.

Design assembly features

Of course, the easiest way to install a window is to disassemble it, without a sash. It is secured before sealing the seams begins. How to install a plastic window sash? Before hanging, it is recommended to put decorative caps on the hinges. Doing this after installing the sash will be inconvenient. In addition, the handle must be in the open (horizontal) position. To install the sash, it is first put on the lower hinge, and the corner loop is inserted into the upper one. The elements are fixed with a pin. It should be pushed up until the latch engages. In order for the pin to easily enter the hole, the sash should be pressed (or almost pressed) against the frame at this moment.

Sealing seams

Speaking about how to properly install a plastic window, we should talk about sealing the structure. So, the block is well fixed. Next, the installation seams are sealed. For this purpose, special foam is used. At this stage, it is necessary to take into account certain properties of the materials. As they harden, they increase in volume. Thus, work must be carried out with the sash closed. It can be opened only a day after the installation is completely completed. The use of foam also has its own characteristics. In this case, it is worth taking into account humidity and temperature indicators. Before directly applying the foam, you should prepare the surface. It needs to be moistened with water.

How to install a window sill

The plastic element must be securely fixed. For this, polyurethane foam is used. Before installing the window sill, the plastic element must first be cut to the required size. To do this, it is best to use a fine-toothed hacksaw or grinder. The product is installed closely to the stand profile. The window sill must be level. Wedges are used for this. It is worth noting that a slight slope is quite acceptable. This implies condensate drainage. However, the slope should not exceed 3 degrees.

The free plane, which is located between the underside of the element and the opening, must be filled with foam. It is necessary to avoid deformation of the window sill. It often occurs due to foam expansion. This requires the installation of weights (5 kg) on ​​the windowsill. They must be at three different points. This is done immediately before foaming.

High-quality installation of a window sill requires compliance with the following rules:

  • The Z-shaped plates must be fixed to the support profile. This will allow the product to fit more tightly to the frame.
  • Special recesses are made in the opening. This is necessary in order to position the window sill outside the slope.
  • The gap located between the block and the product must be sealed. This is done using silicone.
  • The end caps are attached using superglue.

Here's how to install a plastic window sill correctly.

Low tide installation

Above are the basic recommendations on how to properly install a plastic window. Installation of the low tide is usually considered final. Initially, the element must be cut according to the specified size. It is recommended to use metal scissors. Only after this can the low tide be recorded. To do this, you need to use at least three self-tapping screws.

How to install plastic slopes yourself

It is worth noting that when hiring professionals, you will have to spend a large amount of money on this type of work. In addition, in this case, the quality is not always commensurate with the price. First of all, you need to select the appropriate material. It is recommended to use window sills. They will "sit" very tightly. Such slopes are very durable. In addition, they are quite difficult to scratch. It is worth noting that the curved edge will save the owners from having to look at the peeling wallpaper, which is very often found at the joints.

Many craftsmen offer their clients the installation of slopes made from sandwich panels. This material is quite thin. It is worth noting that in most cases the slope has a completely imperfect surface. Concave areas and convex areas are common. It is recommended to place plastic corners at the junction with the wall. However, they come off quite often. In addition, their joint docking leaves much to be desired.

Tools

Before installing plastic slopes, you should arm yourself with all the necessary equipment. Among them:

  1. Screwdriver.
  2. Hammer drill (impact drill).
  3. Mounting gun (for foam).
  4. Electric jigsaw.
  5. Saw with a sharp tooth.

Calculating the amount of material required is not difficult at all. It is necessary to measure the length of the window sills and sides of each window. This also applies to the balcony door. It is best to determine the required amount of materials for installation together with a consultant. In addition, counting of end caps is required.

Also, do not forget about the following elements:

  1. Self-tapping screws with press washer.
  2. Suspensions.
  3. Dowel-nails.
  4. Professional polyurethane foam.

The quantity of all of the above products is calculated depending on the parameters of specific window frames.

Installation process

It is recommended to carefully measure the distance from the wall to the frame. You need to add 4 cm to the resulting value. Thus, the slope will be brought behind the frame. It is recommended to cut out using a jigsaw. In this case, you need to leave a small margin for the overlap on the wall. After completing work with the slope, it is time to fasten the elements that are fixed directly on it. In this case, suspensions are used. It is recommended to purchase them in advance. Two corners emerge from one hanger, which secure the slope to the wall. They are fixed at a distance of approximately 35-40 cm from each other. For this purpose, self-tapping screws with a press washer are used.

If the top element is small, only one fastening angle can be used. Slope fitting is required. This must be done after all elements have been recorded. It is necessary to mark the location of the mounting angle. Next, this place is hollowed out. A corner is recessed into it. It will need to be plastered in the future. After applying the foam, the slope must be carefully inserted behind the frame. Then you need to secure the corner. In this case, you can use a hammer drill or impact drill. Fastening is carried out using a dowel-nail.

Next you should start working on the side slopes. In some cases they need to be “opened up” a little. This requires drawing a perpendicular along the window sill and the upper slope. This is done using a large square. Side slopes are drawn from the resulting straight line. The distance should be the same. It should be noted that open slopes have a more attractive appearance.

Similar elements located at right angles to the frame look different. In this case, the slopes are fastened in the same way. It is worth noting that their main advantage is rigidity. Thus, they do not need spacers or other similar devices. Unfortunately, slopes made of sandwich panels do not have similar properties.

If you are planning to replace or install new windows, you will need to learn the installation process. It all depends on how you will install the windows: either with your own hands or by hiring a third-party company. It takes approximately 4 hours to dismantle and install the structure if you do not have experience in this matter. For a company employee who does this often, such work will take no more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows yourself requires some construction skills.

Window system components

Before you begin installation, you need to understand the nuances and details. First, you should find out all the names of parts and materials. The main load-bearing part is the frame. In the version of plastic windows, its production is carried out from a plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, double-chamber, etc. A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. In plastic systems, this insert is made of plastic; in metal-plastic systems, metal is used.

The profile system is assembled from 2 or more chambers

In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles manufactured at the plant are subject to certain standards. If you want to make a choice in favor of good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. In terms of color, white windows are most often found, but other colors can be used: wood, brown. Products made from colored profiles will be more expensive than white ones.

Components of a plastic window


The main element of a window unit is the frame

The design of a plastic window includes the following parts:

  • frame – the main structural part;
  • if you have a large window, most often it is divided by a vertical partition, there may be several of them - it all depends on the choice of design;
  • the part that is motionless is called blind, and the part that opens is called the sash;
  • double-glazed windows can have different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
  • In order for the glass to hold securely, they are pressed with a bead, which is a thin plastic strip. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
  • fittings are always used - this is a special set of tilt-and-turn mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
  • in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
  • Ventilated holes for drainage are made on the inside of the frame, which are covered with caps. Moisture formed when the temperature changes outside and inside the room passes through them to the outside;
  • another part of the structure is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
  • parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.

Is it possible to install the window yourself?

There is an opinion that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. It must be said that this is not so. What do you need to know during installation? To perform these works, you do not need special professional tools and equipment, or vast experience. The procedure includes two main points:

  • dismantling the old window block;
  • installation of a new window.

Removing an old window takes an average of 1.5 hours

If we talk about the time required to complete the work, the first stage will require approximately an hour and a half. Installing windows yourself will take less than three hours. It must be said that if you nevertheless decide to opt for the services of specialists, then you should demand certain guarantees from them.

If you installed the tilt and turn windows yourself, this will void your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase structures directly from a manufacturer who has been working on the market for a long time and has good reviews from customers. If you decide to buy single-chamber or double-chamber windows in winter, you can always count on a significant discount.

When a window is purchased from a company that also carries out installation work, the customer has a warranty on the fittings for about 5 years. If you install it yourself, you can get a warranty directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.

In order to install windows in a brick house, cinder block house, gas block house or apartment, you must first order a tilt-and-turn or blind structure from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.

Step-by-step instructions for correct measurements

When you place an order, you will be asked to indicate the following dimensions: the width and height of the structure, the width and length of the slope and window sill.


Before ordering a window, you must take correct measurements of the structure.

Before you start measuring, do not miss an important point - what type of opening you have: with or without a quarter. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, it means there is a quarter-sized opening in front of you. The measurement is carried out as follows: you need to measure the narrowest part, you will need to measure in several places, find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done as follows: after measuring the width, subtract 3 cm; measuring the height, minus 5 cm. Read a detailed article about.


Before taking measurements, you need to determine the type of window: with or without a quarter

To determine the size of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For low tide, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes slightly beyond the radiator.

In addition, when placing an order, you need to decide what components your design will be made of: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows you need, how they will open, on which side the capercaillie is located. Don’t forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).

If you order several designs at the same time, the width of all openings may be different, but the height should be the same; you must choose the smallest size. Please note that window openings can be located at different distances from the floor. In apartments, the distance from the floor to the window is approximately 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows can be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be anything at the discretion of the owners.

Features of measurements for glazing balconies

To determine the width of the glass structure, it is necessary to measure the length of the part of the balcony on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm on each side. This distance will be required for the installation of the corner profile to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or loggia, and a tolerance of 3 cm must be subtracted for the gap.


How to correctly measure windows in a country house

To correctly measure the dimensions of a structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that when the structure is dismantled, some of the materials with which the space was filled will also be removed.

Preparing to install a window structure

After you remove the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that may fall off or collapse; if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. If there are large depressions, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with primer.


The base will need to be cleaned before installation.

Having finished working with the opening, you need to prepare the PVC window, which is to be installed. To do this, you need to remove the window sashes; if it is solid, double-glazed windows. If your frame has small dimensions, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes. The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.

Installation Technology Guide

The finished plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on support blocks and aligned horizontally. After this, using a level, the window is aligned vertically and secured in this position with spacer blocks.

Installation of both fixed windows and opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without expansion of the structure. When using the first option, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchor bolts are driven into the wall. This method is more complex and more reliable.


When installing a window using the unpacking method, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, into which anchors are then driven in.
Places for attaching anchors and support blocks

If the installation is carried out without unpacking the frame, the window is fastened using special ones, which are attached to the profile and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it must be taken into account that under significant wind loads, the frame structure may warp or it may sag. If you decide to mount it on a plate, you should choose thick, wide options. Please note that if the region in which you live has a strong wind load or windows will be installed at a height, then you should use the option of unsealing the frame.


Mounting on anchor plates

There are nuances to placing a window in the opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, brick, cinder block, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed 2/3 deep from the internal thickness of the opening. If the walls are insulated with foam plastic, then the fastening must be done before the insulating layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, the window is installed in the insulation zone.


It is very important to choose the correct installation depth

The installation sequence must be followed:

  • Having inserted the frame, level it using support and spacer blocks;
  • then attach it to the wall;
  • after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
  • then you need to check the normal operation of the shutters and all mechanisms; to do this, open and close the window;
  • after everything has been checked, the doors must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this purpose they use .

However, it must be remembered that in direct contact with sunlight and the external environment, the material loses its properties and is destroyed. To protect it, you need to create, this can be a special film that needs to be glued to the outside and inside of the window. After the foam has dried, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing the gap with foam.

To ensure proper installation on both windows and windows, follow these simple rules:

  • we install the ebb from the outside in a special slot in the frame or attach it to it with self-tapping screws;
  • the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to trim it from the edges so that it fits the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the stand profile;
  • the level is leveled using special pads, after which the space under the window sill is blown with foam or filled with mortar.

According to the principle described above, windows are installed on a balcony or loggia, in brick or concrete walls. However, keep in mind that the entire weight of the window structure will be carried by the parapet, so you need to strengthen it.

Mistakes you can make when installing windows

There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing the structure so that it has a long service life:

  • you cannot install the window with the glazing beads facing outward, as this reduces the structure’s burglary resistance, since the glazing bead can easily be pulled out and the glass unit removed;
  • you need to be careful about leveling the structures when installing the window, otherwise opening and closing the sashes will be difficult;
  • It is imperative to protect the mounting foam from direct sunlight to avoid its destruction;
  • It would be wrong to choose to fix the frame structure only with mounting foam: it is absolutely necessary to attach it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.

By following all the installation rules, you can successfully install the window structure yourself, and if you seek the services of professionals, you will be able to monitor their work at any stage.

When taking measurements, you need to take into account the type of opening - without a quarter or with a quarter, as well as its features and other elements in the form of a window sill and.

In the first option, you need to measure the clean opening vertically and horizontally.

In the second, measure the horizontal distance between the quarters at the narrowest point, adding another 30 mm to the resulting figure. In the vertical plane, the net distance from the lower plane of the opening to its upper quarter is measured, which determines the height of the future glazing.

We carry out the necessary calculations

In order to place an order without a quarter, you need not only to measure the net distance between the surfaces of the window opening, but also to calculate its optimal size in the following way.

To do this, subtract 50 mm from the vertical distance to obtain the required height, and 30 mm from the horizontal distance to calculate the width. These gaps allow for a 15mm layer of foam around the perimeter of the window and 35mm underneath.

To the measurements of the window sill and ebb, another 50 mm is added to allow for insertion into the wall.

As a result, before going to the store and ordering components, you need to know six sizes: the height and width of the glass unit, the length and width of the window sill, the length and width of the ebb.

Preparation of tools, materials and components

The tools you will need are a standard home craftsman's set: a screwdriver, a level, a hammer drill, a set of hexagons, a jigsaw, a knife, a pencil and a tape measure.

The materials you need to purchase are: polyurethane foam, silicone, putty, screws or dowels, etc.

And, of course, the set of components for installing double-glazed windows: window profiles, handles, fasteners, window sills, ebbs, etc.

Removing the old window


  1. In the case of blind window frames, first the glazing beads and the glass they hold are pulled out. In the case of unlocking sashes, they are simply removed from their hinges along with the glazing. In the case where the structures are many years old, and the frames in them are loose and “walk” diagonally, in order to avoid unnecessary problems and for safety, it is advisable to remove the glazing from them in advance.
  2. Next, in order to pull out the frame itself, using a regular hacksaw, it is sawed through in several places. In some cases, this work is done using a grinder with a circle on concrete.
  3. Having divided the frame into several parts with the help of a crowbar, a chisel, a crowbar and a hammer, they are separated from the window opening, to which they have “grown” during operation. In some cases, when a frame made of high-quality wood is well preserved, it can be left alone. But ideally, it should be dismantled so that the new glazing can be attached directly to the wall.
  4. Using the same technology, used windowsills are removed, especially if they are made of wood. In the case of a concrete structure, it is crushed with a jackhammer; in the absence of one, you can get by with a crowbar and a sledgehammer. Again, if it is in good condition and there are no objective reasons to destroy it, this can be avoided. However, in this case, two things should be taken into account: firstly, a plastic structure is always warmer than a concrete one, so if there is a lack of heat, it is better to install it, and secondly, the old structure physically cannot ensure good contact with the new frame.
  5. After dismantling the intermediate elements, the wall load-bearing surfaces of the opening are inspected, cleared of debris and, if necessary, repaired.

Preparing a new window

If a new window has opening sashes, it must be securely locked before installation so that it cannot accidentally open while manipulating it. It must be closed during foaming, sealing the cracks and fixing it in the frame, otherwise its plastic ribs can be bent in a semicircle by the foam expanding during the hardening process.

Before opening its doors, it is necessary to allow all fixing and insulating mixtures to dry completely.– at least 12 hours after completion of work.

Many beginners make the mistake of thinking that by removing the protective film from its surface immediately before starting work, they are preparing it for installation.

This is not true, because this protection is needed most of all in order to avoid possible damage or contamination of the transparent coating during installation. Therefore, this tape can be removed only after all finishing work involving puttying, painting or installation of slopes.

Window installation


  1. This operation begins by drawing markings on its frame for future fastenings, which are installed on all four sides of the frame at intervals of 700 mm. For light single structures, large intervals are allowed, not exceeding one meter. The extreme fastener is mounted with an indentation from its corner in the region of 50-150 mm. In terms of fastenings, the exception is double-glazed windows with a stand profile; they do not require fixing elements from below.
  2. Fasteners are installed on the frame according to the markings. They are connected to it so that the self-tapping screw passes through the metal located in the frame itself, the so-called bent metal channel. For this purpose, special metal screws with a diameter of 4 mm are selected. They are already equipped with a drill tip. You can, of course, use simple 5 mm self-tapping screws, but in this case you will have to do double work, first drilling a 4 mm diameter hole for them with a drill, and then screwing them in. They are approximately equal in cost, but they differ in metal thickness, so the plates are sold with a thickness of 1.1 to 1.5 mm, and suspensions from 0.5 to 1 mm.
  3. Recesses are made at the intended mounting points of the fasteners on the window opening. This operation is not done by eye or approximately, but I apply a window frame already equipped with clamps to the installation site, and exactly along the perimeter of the fasteners a recess with a depth of 20 to 40 mm is knocked out, its “imprint” on the surface of the opening directly, but the load-bearing material, be it stone or brick. The fixing elements will be immersed in these recesses flush with the opening.
  4. The window is leveled in the opening, placing wooden chips under the frame where necessary. Such wedges can only be inserted opposite the transverse elements of the frame: under the horizontal planks at their intersection with the vertical ones and vice versa. Wedge installation procedure: two bottom and one top to adjust the bottom edge and horizon at the top. Next, two at the top to fix the frame up and down. And then all the remaining wedges from left to right, and of course on both the bottom and top sides of the frame. If there is an impost, it is also wedged in such a way that all vertical planks are strictly parallel to each other. Aligning the wedges takes up the lion's share of the time of the entire installation process. But this is exactly what the correct positioning of the frame in the window opening will depend on, both in the vertical and horizontal planes.
  5. Fix the glass unit in the opening. Once the position of the window is adjusted as perfectly as possible, it can be secured. To do this, use either dowels or anchors. The second option is, of course, more expensive, but also more reliable. In principle, a dowel installed in concrete can support a weight of up to 60 kg, which is more than enough for a window. Dowels for fixing in concrete, hollow brick, shell rock or foam concrete are used with a cross-section from 6 to 8 mm and a length from 75 to 80 mm.
  6. Finally, the gaps between the window opening and the frame installed in it are foamed so that there is not even the slightest void left between them. Foaming technology in the case of crevices larger than 20 mm involves carrying out this operation in several stages, with several layers of foam and breaks of 1-2 hours for each layer to dry. In this case, it will be possible to minimize the deformation of the foam during its expansion, and reduce its useless waste, since the protruding edges would still need to be cut off. In the case when work is carried out at temperatures less than 5 degrees Celsius, ordinary summer foam will not work; it is recommended to use a special type, winter or all-season.

As a rule, the window sill part has a standard length and width with the necessary margin, which is cut during the installation process to the measurements of a specific window opening. This procedure is performed using a jigsaw, grinder or hacksaw with small teeth.

Next, the already cut part is adjusted to the stand profile, simultaneously aligning it strictly to the level, using the same technology as the window system itself. It is advisable to place the plugs on the window sill so that they fit into the opening in the wall. It is better to attach them with special glue, and not rely on silicone or acrylic, which are not intended for this.

Thus, in the end, the window sill element must be installed strictly level, so that a glass full of water can be placed on it without spilling it. It should not sag or bend in any place, even with strong hand pressure.

In some cases, the window sill is mounted with a slight slope, less than 3 degrees, towards the street, which is necessary so that the condensation that appears on the glass does not accumulate, but runs down the inclined window sill to the ground.

After completing the adjustment and fixing, you can fill the gap under the window sill with foam, and while it dries, about 12 hours, so that the foam does not lift it, you need to put something on it, for example, several bottles of water.

After about a day, when the foam has completely hardened, its protruding edge is cut off with a knife.

It happens that due to the unevenness of the window sill element, after its installation a gap forms between its upper plane and the glazing frame. It must be filled with silicone, which tends to turn black with mold over time, which will undoubtedly ruin the appearance of a snow-white window.

Therefore, it is better not to hide such a defect, but to try to prevent its occurrence at the installation stage. This is done very simply - Z-shaped plates made of galvanized sheet are screwed to the plastic profile before it is fixed. In addition, such additional details make it easier to position the window sill.

Installation of slopes and platbands

  1. Wooden slats are mounted along the inner perimeter of the window using screws 95 mm long. Using a square and a level, the position is also controlled.
  2. The U-shaped starting profile is installed on the so-called bugs - very small self-tapping screws screwed directly into the frame. It is into this profile that the slopes will be inserted, so when installing it, special care is required in the operation of connecting its outer edges.
  3. Using a stapler, the F-shaped profile is fastened. The groove of this profile corresponds to the groove of the previous one, and it is on them that the slopes will be held.
  4. When the entire perimeter of the double-glazed window is equipped with two types of profiles, the slopes themselves are inserted into them.
  5. At the final stage, platbands are installed sequentially on the plastic slopes: one upper and two side. To join each other, their edges are cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

Adjusting fittings

The position of the valves is adjusted using hexagons located near the hinges. To do this, use either a hex bit on a screwdriver, a screwdriver or a miniature wrench. Thus, in the process of their rotation, they achieve a position for the window sashes that would allow them to easily open and close without causing harm to other elements of the system.

It is also not considered normal for a slightly open sash to close on its own or, conversely, for a closed one to open.

They must remain in a constant position. Often, during the process of opening or closing, excessive friction with the locking hardware occurs, accompanied by corresponding sounds. To get rid of this, simply unscrew the screw that secures the corresponding fittings and move it up or down by 0.5-1 cm.

Installation of ebb tides

Usually, ebb tides are attached at the end of all installation work. It is better to mount them right under the window, so as to prevent water from leaking into the gap between it and the frame. However, sometimes this cannot be done, and the ebb is screwed directly to its frame using small metal screws with a cross-section of 4 mm and a length of 9 mm.

  • Let's calculate the costs.
  • Time and money spent on self-installation.

The technology for installing a window with your own hands involves two operations: dismantling the old glazing and installing a new one, which in time corresponds to approximately 30-90 minutes to remove the old glazing from the opening and about 2 hours to install a new double-glazed window of medium size, that is, up to 2x2 meters.

Thus, to replace the glazing in one window opening you will need to spend from 2.5 to 3.5 hours, which is quite a bit. After all, with such a pace of work, even in one day off you can independently change the glazing in several openings.

This time will not be wasted because by doing this work with your own hands you can be confident in the quality of the installation, and in addition, you can save a lot of money because the master will require payment from 2000 to 4000 rubles for each glazed opening.

Often, when ordering from a company that also provides installation services, the price for this procedure is charged as a percentage of 10 to 40% of the cost of the double-glazed windows themselves.

Is it worth installing windows yourself?

There are no difficulties in installing plastic profiles on your own, since they have an almost ready-to-use, modular design that does not require the assembly of individual parts. To insert and secure it in a window opening, you do not need to have any special technical education or expensive equipment.

Please note that installation is carried out at your own responsibility. which means you need to measure, select and order all the components and materials yourself.

Accordingly, the supplier’s guarantee will only apply to the double-glazed windows and fittings, and the quality of the seams, their filling, the verticality and horizontality of all parts, as well as the actual operability of the window are solely the responsibility of the individual who installed it.

If the order was made from an installation organization, it provides a full guarantee on materials and installation quality from one to 5 years.

However, if you have at least a couple of days off, hard work and the desire to save money, you can change the glazing in your own home yourself, doing this job no worse than an entire installation team. In this case, the team means the foreman who actually installs the window profile and his assistant who gives him the tools.

Thus, when carrying out the work yourself, you just need to call someone, a relative, acquaintance or friend, for help, and in the speed of glazing you can compete with professionals, and the cost of paying someone else’s labor will be zero.

Common mistakes

When non-professionals install a double-glazed window on their own for the first time, they often make a number of common mistakes, which, at first glance, may not be obvious and uncritical, but, ultimately, affect the service life and comfort of the window structure:

  • The profile is installed with glazing beads on the street, which makes the house completely defenseless for unauthorized persons to enter. To do this, they just need to remove the glazing beads and simply pull the double-glazed windows out of the openings.
  • Installation is carried out as is, that is, without checking and adjusting the level, which results in problems with the functioning of the structure.
  • Foaming the cracks using a can of polyurethane foam, do not read the instructions for it, which say about its vulnerability to ultraviolet radiation. This means that in order for it to remain intact, the cracks with it must be covered with cladding.
  • Fixing the structure simply by foaming the cracks without securing it in any way in the opening. Such a mistake in the case of an opening with a quarter can, in extreme cases, lead to cracking of the slopes, since the foam does not guarantee the immobility of the frame, which, when displaced, will break them. In the case of an opening without a quarter, the glass unit may, over time, under the influence of vibration or other factors, generally fall out onto the street.
  • It is not recommended to use a metal cutter to dismantle any wooden structures, and in particular an old frame, as it is not suitable for this. Such a thin disc, rotating at a speed of 7000 revolutions per minute, can easily get stuck or deformed on the first knot, which is extremely dangerous for the operator and others. This is also true for a toothed disc on wood.
  • So that one of the household members does not accidentally ruin the work If you accidentally open the sash at the stage of foam hardening, it is best not to install the opening handle at this time; without it, even out of ignorance, it will be impossible to open it, and in the case of solid frames, this nuance is not at all relevant.

The advantages of installing plastic windows are not only performance characteristics, but also ease of installation. A simple process, facilitated by the presence of fastening devices and additional parts in the factory configuration, can be easily mastered and carried out by a home craftsman himself. There are a number of nuances in it that dictate the independent installer to scrupulously comply with construction regulations. You will need patience, accuracy and at least one person to help you. Then installing plastic windows yourself will be done flawlessly and practically free of charge.

Video tutorial for DIY builders

Preliminary measurements and calculations

Before buying a window, they traditionally take measurements of the opening, taking into account whether it has a quarter or without. Openings with a quarter are a characteristic detail of a foam concrete structure, which significantly reduces heat loss. For an opening without a quarter, you need to order a window whose length will be 5 cm less than the equivalent parameter of the opening. You need to subtract 3 cm from the width value. Gaps along the contour of 1.5 cm are needed for foaming, an additional 3.5 cm from the bottom are needed for the window sill. GOSTs recommend leaving 2.0 cm around the perimeter.

To create an opening with a quarter, measurements are taken at the narrowest point. Windows are ordered by adding 3 cm to the width, the length does not change.

Windows are usually located not in the middle of the opening, but retreating from the outer plane 1/3 in depth. But those who want to install a plastic window with their own hands may have options with an offset to either side. This circumstance must be taken into account when ordering window sills and external ebbs. The widths of both elements calculated according to the location of the window must be added by 5 cm.

Calculations for the width of the window sill are also affected by the location of the battery. It should only cover the radiator halfway. Plus 2 cm for placement under the base of the window. The minimum length margin is 8 cm, but it’s better not to skimp and add 15 cm to cut this part beautifully.

Note. The window sills and ebbs are supplied with plastic side plugs. Don't give up on them.

Frame mounting methods

The installation technology does not depend on the number of internal chambers in the metal-plastic profile, nor on the number of chambers in double-glazed windows. It depends on the material from which the walls of the building are constructed, and on the dimensions of the window. Based on the above prerequisites, the fastening method and devices are selected.

You can fix the plastic window structure:

  • mounting anchors or dowels, embedded in the walls through through holes drilled in the profile;
  • Using special toothed plates that are pressed into the profile, they are not embedded in the wall, but are installed by surprise and secured with screws.

The first method is considered the most reliable. It is used primarily for the installation of large and heavy window systems. With through-mounting, the window will firmly resist numerous impact loads that arise, for example, when operating windows with sashes that open in two different positions. In addition, anchors passing through the frame will allow you to more accurately adjust the verticals and horizontals of the mounted structure.

However, those who want to know how to properly install small plastic windows with double-glazed windows should be interested in the method of fixation with anchor plates. They will not spoil the appearance of the window, as they will then be hidden under the slopes.

Advice. When installing anchor plates in a concrete or brick opening, it is advisable to make small recesses so that you do not have to apply an extra leveling layer before installing the internal slopes.

Often builders combine both methods. The anchors are buried in the walls through the side elements of the frame and through the bottom profile (window base), and the top is fixed only with plates. If you install plastic windows yourself in a wooden bathhouse, anchor plates are rarely used, they can become loose. Instead of anchors, galvanized self-tapping screws are sometimes used.

Specifics of installation in a wooden structure

To a large extent, the installation process is influenced by the type of building material. If for walls made of foam concrete, hollow or solid bricks the differences are only in the size of the depth of the anchors, then there is a special approach to openings in log frames and timber walls. You need to take into account not only how, but also when it is better to install plastic windows in wooden openings, and also how this should be done.

  • It is possible to equip a wooden building with plastic windows only after a year, preferably two years after completion of construction. This significant break is necessary due to post-construction settlement. The shortest shrinkage period and its size are for buildings made of laminated veneer lumber.
  • Installation is not carried out directly into the opening. The window can only be inserted into a wooden box, which protects the window structure from deformation. There should be no damage, defects or rot on the window unit. Before starting work, it must be treated with an antiseptic.
  • Shrinkage, although not so intense, will continue to occur after the installation of windows and finishing. Taking this into account, a gap of 3-7 cm is left between the upper plane of the opening and the frame. The size of the gap depends on the humidity and the category of materials used in construction. After installing the window, the gap is filled with jute insulation and closed with platbands on both sides.

There are no precise recommendations in building regulations regarding the material for ebb and flow sills in wooden houses. Shimmers are usually used standard, attached to the window structure. The window sill can be either polymer or wood. It is not prohibited for the bottom profile to rest directly on the wooden window sill. That is, before installation it may already be there.

There is a nuance that is not specified in the regulations, but is recommended by experienced builders for those who are figuring out how to properly install plastic windows. Wood that can allow evaporation to pass through will help reduce the technical qualities of the polyurethane foam. In order to prevent the foam “blown out” around the perimeter from becoming moistened, it is advisable to equip the window block along the line of its application with foil-lined polyethylene foam tape.

Standards for installing plastic windows

A distinctive feature of the technology is the use of polyurethane foam, which imparts rigidity to the frame-opening connection. The layer obtained as a result of polymerization of the foam simultaneously serves as insulation and additional fastening. In order for this element to maintain the necessary technical characteristics, the foam layer is surrounded by insulating layers.

When it is better to install a plastic window, the owner himself decides. Winter installation is often recommended due to the immediate appearance of all flaws. When choosing polyurethane foam, you must take into account at what atmospheric temperatures the composition will harden better. It is recommended to prefer professional foam, and to work with negative thermometer readings you need to buy a specialized nozzle.

How to perform foaming is described in detail by the manufacturer in the instructions supplied with the product. Foaming usually begins from the bottom, moving upward in a rotary and circular motion. To avoid overconsumption of expensive material, blow out the foam in several stages in sections of 25-30 cm.

Advice. In order to shift the dew point, foaming is performed with unequal density. It is recommended to make the outward-facing layer of foam less dense than the inner one. The foam must be blown evenly around the perimeter, without voids or gaps.

Preparing the window opening

There should be no dust, no debris, no paint residues in the opening - this is a mandatory condition. Home craftsmen who want to know how to insert a plastic window into a wooden structure need to plan off the top “unreliable” layer if the installation will be carried out in a box that has already been used. The foam will adhere firmly to the top layer. If there is a suspicion that it will peel off over time, it is better to eliminate it.

Advice. The gaps between the frame and the opening are filled only with foam if the distance does not exceed the limit of 4 cm. If the gaps are larger, it is better to partially fill them with cheaper material: plasterboard, pieces of timber, foam plastic, brick, etc.

Preparing a plastic window

  • First, free the frame from the sash by removing the pin inserted into the top hinge. You need to carefully pick it up from below with pliers and a screwdriver. Then, slightly lifting it, remove the sash from the lower hinge. Double-glazed windows are removed from fixed windows, having first removed the longitudinal and then the transverse beads. To remove glazing beads, a knife with the thick side or a spatula is carefully inserted into the gap and slowly moved, trying not to damage the glass.

Note. You can insert a small plastic window using mounting plates without removing the sashes or double-glazed windows. If possible, there is no need to violate the integrity of the factory structure.

  • Place the glass unit or sash at an angle against the wall, placing it on a flat surface covered with cardboard or some soft material.

Attention. You can't lay it flat! Place it skewed too. The smallest pebble under the base will cause a crack to appear.

  • Remove the protective film from the outer surface of the frame. If you don’t remove it now, it will be much more difficult to do it later and you will have to use a hair dryer.
  • Regardless of the type of mount chosen, the locations for its installation are marked. The step strongly recommended by builders is 40 cm (a little less is possible), the maximum allowed by GOST is 70 cm. The standard distance from corners and from the impost is 15 cm. If mounting plates are used, they are pre-attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. Holes are made for anchor bolts or long self-tapping screws by placing a metal drill on the outside of the frame.

Most video instructions teaching how to install a plastic window yourself dictate fixing the PSUL protective tape before installation. However, craftsmen who are faced with its sticky “inconvenience” convince us that it is wiser to attach it after installation.

The installation process itself

  • Insert the frame into the opening, placing special plastic corners or small blocks around the perimeter to provide a technological gap. By slightly moving these spacer wedges, align the frame clearly horizontally and vertically with uniform side gaps.

Advice. It is advisable to place the spacer devices next to the fastening point with a self-tapping screw or anchor. They will protect the frame from deformation.

  • Since installing PVC windows yourself can be done using different fasteners, differences appear at this stage.
    • Immediately screw a self-tapping screw into the opening of a wooden house through the holes in the frame. There is no need to screw it in all the way.
    • On walls made of foam concrete or brick, mark points through the holes in the frame, then remove the frame and drill holes with a drill appropriate for the material. Then return the frame to its place, “attach” the fasteners.
    • There will be no need for double manipulations with the frame when installing it on anchor plates. They should simply be bent so that they are adjacent to the place intended for their fastening.

  • The final fastening is made after checking the horizontal and vertical lines with a spirit level and plumb line. You cannot persist with tightening so that the frame does not begin to bend barrel-shaped. Finish screwing once the head is flush with the frame. Installers advise leaving 1 mm above the surface.
  • Return the dismantled parts to their place in the reverse order and check the functionality of the structure.
  • Fill the gaps with foam. Cover the foam seams on the outside and inside with protective tapes. On the outside, the insulating tape must be “sinked” into
  • Fill the gap under the drain with foam. Install it at an angle away from the window, attach it with self-tapping screws to the bottom profile.
  • After the foam has polymerized, you need to install the window sill. The plastic version fits 2 cm under the clover. To create a slight slope from the window, the space under the window sill can also be foamed.
  • It is advisable to make the slopes on the day of installation. Maximum break 3 days after installation.

After completing all operations for 16 hours, it is not recommended to use windows so as not to damage the integrity of the installation seams. Not only skilled owners need to know how to install a plastic window. If the owner of a country estate decides to order the services of a little-known team of installers, he also needs to study the specifics of installation in advance.