Planting trees and shrubs in the permanent place of the landscaping object is not the end of the landscaping work. After planting, care for plants includes agrotechnical measures that ensure the survival of plants and create conditions for their normal growth and development.
The first years after planting are the most critical for plants, since they are found in unusual environmental conditions with damaged root systems. At this time, plants, with proper care, heal wounds, gradually restore root systems; along with this, the growth of the aerial part is improved. The time of plant survival and full restoration of their vital activity can be different depending on the biological properties, condition and age of the seedlings. Shrub plants take root most quickly; the period of their complete survival lasts 2-3 years. The period of full survival of 6-11-year-old trees-seedlings lasts 3-4 years. In large trees and shrubs, the survival time is longer and lasts 5 years.
Post-plant care is carried out taking into account the timing of planting and natural and climatic factors. In all cases, post-planting care is carried out regularly throughout the season and is usually reduced to such activities as thorough and regular watering, loosening and mulching of the near-trunk space, and feeding.
For more active root formation during the growing season, it is recommended to add solutions of growth stimulants, such as salts of heteroauxin or beta-indolylacetic acid, simultaneously with watering. Heteroauxin is usually produced in tablets, each of which contains 100 mg of the active ingredient. To add it to the soil in the form of a solution, one tablet must be dissolved in 10 liters of water.
Research and practice have established the following rates for the application of a growth stimulator (in l) per plant, depending on the age and size of the plant:
standard shrubs-seedlings (3-5 years) ……. 10
standard trees-seedlings (6-11 years) ……… 20
Stimulants are best applied in the spring, at the beginning of the regeneration of root systems. The stimulant solution is introduced into the holes of the seedlings immediately after watering, evenly over the entire area of the near-stem circle, with the calculation of soaking the entire root zone. For plants planted with a lump, the solution is applied along the borders of the coma, where the root cuts are. For this purpose, a shallow groove is dug around the perimeter of the lump, into which the solution is carefully poured. After distributing the liquid along the groove, the soil surface is mulched with dry peat.
The next treatment is done no earlier than 5-6 days later. It is especially necessary to treat clearly weakened plants with growth stimulants, which is usually detected by the state of the leaves at the beginning of the growing season.
In the first growing season, systematic watering of the planted plants plays an important role: during the season, the plants must be watered at least 7-10 times. Watering rate depends on weather conditions, biological properties of plants, their size and age, as well as the mechanical composition and water-holding capacity of soils.
Depending on the size of plants and their root systems, practice has established the following average rates of watering per plant (in l):
shrubs-seedlings ……………… .10--20
seedling trees …………………<10--50
large trees …………… 100-150
big trees …………………… 200-250
Before watering, the rollers of the holes are looked through and straightened, and the mulch is raked off and stacked in piles. Water the plants with a hose from a water washer.
Watering of the planted plants is stopped in August, so that the plants are normally prepared for winter, their shoots are sufficiently lignified, and the buds are differentiated. At the same time, if summer and autumn are dry, watering should be continued until late autumn in order to provide plants with moisture and thereby protect them from drying out in winter.
Loosening of the soil in the near-trunk holes is of great importance. This event is carried out regularly in order to destroy weeds, ensure respiration of the root systems and aerate the surface layer of the soil at least 4-5 times during the growing season to a depth of 4-5 cm so as not to damage the root systems. Loosening is done with garden hoes.
It is very useful during the summer period to sprinkle the crowns of young tree seedlings and the aboveground part of the shrubs with water, especially in dry weather. In the second year after planting, it is useful to combine sprinkling with foliar dressing in the form of solutions of mineral fertilizers.
urea ………………… ..… ..0.1%
ammonium nitrate …………… 0.2%
superphosphate ……………… 0.5 --- 1%
potassium chloride ………… ..… .0.5% - now
Working solutions of nitrogen and potassium fertilizers are prepared on the day of use by dissolving in cold tap water, and superphosphate is infused a day before use.
During the summer period, young plantings are constantly monitored: they check the attachment of trees to the stakes, tighten loose garters, and replace the broken ones with new ones. Fixing stakes are straightened if they bent or replaced if broken. In the third year after planting, after the plant is completely rooted, the fastening stakes are removed.
In autumn, the tree-trunk holes of trees and shrubs are loosened to a depth of 5-7 cm and peat or humus is poured over the surface with a layer of 3-4 cm to insulate the plants.
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Trees and shrubs occupy a special place of honor in the garden, because they are the basis and pride of each season. First, there is a riot of new green colors that range from light green to rich green foliage. Then comes the flowering period, when most trees have a huge range of colored inflorescences, which, in addition to their attractive appearance, beckon with an incredible aroma. The final stage is fruiting, especially pleasant if it is abundant enough, which makes a high yield.
All these stages pass safely if each gardener correctly prepares trees not only for winter, but also helps to "tune in" for the new season after its end. Indeed, as soon as the sun confidently begins to shine and warm up the earth, it is considered the official start of not only field work, but also classes in the garden.
All actions must be performed clearly, quickly and comprehensively, because the omission of at least one moment can completely erase your work. We offer a step-by-step excursion to the personal plot, where trees and bushes must be “brought back to life” in a few days.
Before you can perform any manipulations with lightning speed, you need to sensibly and slowly assess the range of work. Naturally, each stage needs special attention, but in case of visible problems, it is necessary to prepare in advance for their solutions.
The first thing that catches your eye is the degree of flooding of the territory, how strong and abundant there were snowfalls, the melting of which the earth is unable to quickly cope with. If possible, try to expand the "puddles", thereby the area of the territory with water will increase, and the earth will be able to quickly absorb what is left from prolonged snowfalls.
You need to carefully examine all the trees and their "inhabitants". It is possible that a hollow has appeared or insects have started. The bark can be damaged by rodents. Sunburns are rare, but they cannot be completely ruled out. Pay attention to the branches, whether there are any broken by the wind or by the weight of the snow.
After such a "revision", each gardener will clearly understand where he needs to start and what he is preparing for. It also helps not to miss the details, and not to regret the consequences.
For perennial plants, snow is a kind of "blanket" that reliably not only covers, but also warms from severe frosts. Alas, snow does not have the exact same effect on trees, since the abundant adhesion of wet snow forms huge mounds, which, when glaciated or melted, increase the mass several times, provoking chipping or breaking off good branches. Try to pay attention to the crowns during the winter, if they are heavily snowed, do not be lazy, chicken them out.
With the beginning of spring, it is necessary to help the tree trunks to free themselves from strong icing, because the period of "awakening" has come, and it is impossible to bring it to life.
It would seem that the more branches on a tree, the richer the harvest can be expected this year. It's a delusion! Only strong, young and fruiting branches are able to please with a bountiful harvest, which does not in any way affect the total number of branches.
Many are sure that it is necessary to prune trees in the fall, but this is far from the case. The tree will be able to overwinter with an abundant "bouquet", but it will not continue to grow, develop and fully give birth. Therefore, it is important to prune in March - April, since with the beginning of the awakening, all the "rough" work must be completed.
Remember, pruning is not a luxury, but a necessity, since not only all development and growth are improved, but also a crown of the correct shape and size is formed. Moreover, the yield will automatically increase, since weak and old branches are not able to withstand abundant harvests, respectively, the fruits grow small and absolutely not juicy, because they did not receive adequate nutrition from the branches.
As it turns out, there are no uniform rules and standards, since each tree is an individual that needs special care and proper pruning, taking into account the characteristics of growth and fruiting. The universal rule is only pruning frozen, damaged or broken branches, because under such circumstances the technology of this tree is not important, since the prevention of diseases is to get rid of the focus of problems.
It is customary to prune cherries not very much, since the tree is very hard going through "parting" with its branches. It is recommended to stretch the pruning for 2 years, thereby regularly renewing and giving growth and vitality to the tree.
Apple trees, especially old trees, need serious pruning, because this is the only way it can not only "rejuvenate", but also start to delight again with rich harvests. But young trees, it is better not to rush to "renew" strongly, it is enough to remove only damaged and frozen branches.
A pear has its own growth characteristics, therefore, for maximum yield, try to remove branches near the trunk, especially in young trees, and significantly shorten the remaining branches. Such a procedure will help to form the correct shape, make life easier and improve fruiting.
But the plum has its own peculiarity - the lateral branches give birth more actively, so it is worth cutting off the top, and slightly "renew" the lateral pagons.
Whichever tree you cut, remember that weak branches will not only give birth poorly, but also spend part of the energy that healthy pagons could receive, which, after pruning, leads to an increase in yield. Powerful and strong branches should remain, all unnecessary should be removed.
The bark is a protective “blanket” for the tree, which is difficult to get through without difficulties, so the quality of the bark must be excellent so that it can maximally protect the trunk from pests and weather conditions.
During the winter, the bark is often cracked, partially frozen, and has become an excellent "shelter" for insects and their larvae. Cleaning the bark of trees allows not only to disrupt the "dwelling" of insects, but also to increase the gas exchange of the plant.
Since there will be a lot of "bad" things, soil contamination is very likely. In order to avoid consequences, wrap the surrounding area with film or cloth, but so that there is no access to the ground. Cleansing manipulations can be carried out both with a special tool and with an assistant. The main thing is vertical movements with moderate force, which will remove all unnecessary and "free" the tree trunk. Do not overdo it, as damage to "living" tissue can be detrimental to the entire tree. After completing the procedure, carefully collect the scraps and everything that fell from the bark. Take it away and be sure to burn it, then you can be sure of the complete death of pests and diseases.
Remember, you need to clean the bark of mature trees, young ones have not yet had time to accumulate "harm" in themselves, therefore they have a sufficiently elastic bark surface that does not need to be cleaned.
There is an opinion that whitening is necessary either in the fall or in May. Both statements are false. In the fall, you whitewash the trunk in order to save the plant and protect pests from wintering. Of course, this is a good goal, but in practice it is not realistic, since heavy torrential rains in the autumn period will wash away everything useful from the trunk and, as a result, wintering of pests is not excluded. In May, everything begins to bloom, and in order to emphasize the beauty, some gardeners begin to whitewash the tree trunks. Indeed, in this way, they only emphasize the beauty, but there is no use. It is necessary to whitewash trees in early spring, because the main purpose of whitewashing is the death of insects, larvae and pests. If you manage to whitewash the tree before the “living creatures” awaken, you can guarantee the success of the procedure. But the aesthetic side goes into the background, because the main thing is to protect the trunk, and not to decorate it.
Nowadays, in specialized stores, they massively sell various mixtures for whitewashing, but there is also a "old-fashioned" method that guarantees a positive result if you use this tool on time. If you take a bucket of water with an average of 10 liters, you will need about 2.5 kg of lime, to which you must add 500 grams of copper sulfate and 100 grams of wood glue, which will provide not only good, but also long-term protection.
In order to protect the tree as much as possible and develop its own immunity, spraying with special agents should be carried out, which will be an excellent prevention of various diseases.
In addition to whitewashing and spraying, insects can be fought with the folk method - by etching traps that are sold in mass stores in mass availability or there are a lot of secrets that allow you to make them yourself.
To give strength and power to the root system, try to feed the tree with useful trace elements every year. Liquid fertilizers are best suited, which will help the root recover faster after a fierce winter and develop safely. Do not forget that with regular feeding, increased fruiting is guaranteed.
There are many opinions and positions about the advisability of digging near-trunk circles in the spring. Some are sure that the tree does not need this at all, but supporters desperately argue that only after digging the soil warms up faster, and the root system begins to function better and actively, accelerating the "rehabilitation" period after winter.
Firstly, using digging, you can be sure of the death of pests and insects, which you feel comfortable at the foot of the trees. The main thing is to properly dig, because one mistake, and good intentions will turn into absolute harm. You need to start with a complete cleanup of the territory - remove branches, foliage, debris, snow, because only clean land should remain in front of you. This point is very important, since digging in a contaminated area ensures that the "bad" gets into the soil, which ensures the spread of diseases and the reproduction of pests. Everything that has been removed from the foot must be burned so that there is no possibility of spreading throughout the entire territory.
Secondly, with digging, a “second wind” appears in the tree, since the air “layer” increases, and access is freed up not only for air, but also for water.
And, thirdly, where the soil is well dug up near the trees, weeds are formed at a slower rate and abundance.
The main thing to remember is that the digging of the near-trunk circles must be done no closer than 15 cm from the trunk, since at such a distance there is less chance of damage to the root system. Do not overdo it so as not to expose the root, as they can easily freeze or develop an infection that adversely affects the root system.
Bushes, unlike trees, do not need such close attention and careful care after winter. It will be enough to prune the bush by removing damaged or dead branches. After pruning, the bush will actively begin the developmental stage, because this greatly stimulates growth, which ensures abundant flowering. Ornamental bushes are designed to decorate the territory and add beauty to the landscape design. Moderate pruning not only helps the plant "come to life", but also creates a shape that will then be regularly maintained.
Caring for trees and shrubs after winter is not a recommendation, but a requirement that must be met if you want to contemplate healthy plants and enjoy high yields.
To category: Gardening construction
Caring for trees and shrubs is a system of measures aimed at ensuring the survival of plants after planting and the creation of biologically stable and aesthetically complete plantings at a landscaping site. Woody and shrub plants are taken care of both immediately after planting the plants and during the operation of the landscaping facility practically throughout the entire life of the plants. The purpose of post-plant care is to ensure the survival of plants at the planting facility, and the purpose of care during operation is to create favorable conditions for growth and their aesthetic and sanitary-hygienic functions.
When caring for woody and shrub plants, their biological nature, origin and physiological state are taken into account. Trees and shrubs on urban landscaping sites are in extremely unfavorable conditions, lack light, especially when they are shaded by buildings. The processes of plant growth and development occur under conditions of high air and soil temperatures, low air humidity, which is especially pronounced on city streets and squares. The leaves and shoots of the plant are experiencing overheating; as a result of soil compaction, the aeration and water regimes deteriorate. All this causes inhibition of root growth, suppresses growth processes, worsens the decorative appearance of plants, and shortens their lifespan. As a result, an integrated approach to the implementation of measures for the care of tree and shrub plantations at landscaping objects is of great importance, which is based on the maximum consideration of the biological properties of plants, on the one hand, and factors of an unfavorable external environment, on the other.
Post-plant care for trees and shrubs
Planting trees and shrubs in the permanent place of the landscaping object is not the end of the landscaping work. Post-plant care of plants includes agrotechnical measures that ensure the survival of plants and create conditions for their normal growth and development.
The first years after planting are the most critical for plants, since they are found in unusual environmental conditions with damaged root systems. At this time, plants, with proper care, heal wounds, gradually restore root systems; along with this, the growth of the aerial part is improved. The time of plant survival and full restoration of their vital activity can be different depending on the biological properties, condition and age of the seedlings. Shrub plants take root most quickly; the period of their full survival lasts 2-3 years. The period of full survival of 6-11-year-old trees-seedlings lasts 3-4 years. In large trees and shrubs, the survival time is longer and lasts 5 P years.
Post-plant care is carried out taking into account the timing of planting and natural and climatic factors. In all cases, post-planting care is carried out regularly throughout the season and is usually reduced to such activities as thorough and regular watering, loosening and mulching of the near-trunk space, and feeding.
For a more active root formation during the growing season, it is recommended to add solutions of growth stimulants, such as salts of heteroauxin or beta-indolylacetic acid, simultaneously with watering. Heteroauxin is usually produced in tablets, each of which contains 100 mg of the active ingredient. To add it to the soil in the form of a solution, one tablet must be dissolved in 10 liters of water.
Research and practice have established the following rates for the application of a growth stimulator (in l) per plant, depending on the age and size of the plant:
standard shrubs-seedlings (3-5 years) …… ..10
standard wood-fathoms (6-11 years) ……… 20
Stimulants are best applied in the spring, at the beginning of the regeneration of root systems. The stimulant solution is introduced into the holes of the seedlings immediately after watering, evenly over the entire area of the near-stem circle, with the calculation of soaking the entire root zone. For plants planted with a lump, the solution is applied along the borders of the coma, where the root cuts are located. From this whole, a shallow groove is dug around the perimeter of the lump, into which the solution is carefully poured. After distributing the liquid along the groove, the soil surface is mulched with dry peat.
The next treatment is done no earlier than 5-6 days later. It is especially necessary to treat clearly weakened plants with growth stimulants, which is usually detected by the state of the leaves at the beginning of the growing season.
In the first growing season, systematic watering of the planted plants plays an important role: during the season, the plants must be watered at least 7-10 times. The irrigation rate depends on weather conditions, biological properties of plants, their size and age, as well as on the mechanical composition and water-holding capacity of the soil.
Depending on the size of plants and their root systems, practice has established the following average rates of watering per plant (in l):
shrubs-seedlings …………………………… .10-20
seedling trees ………………………………<10-50
large trees …………… 100-150
most trees ……………………………… 200-250
Before watering, the rollers of the holes are looked through and straightened, and the mulch is raked off and stacked in piles. Water the plants with a hose from a water washer.
Watering of the planted plants is stopped in August, so that the plants are normally prepared for winter, their shoots are sufficiently lignified, and the buds are differentiated. At the same time, if summer and autumn are dry, watering should be continued until late autumn in order to provide plants with moisture and thereby protect them from drying out in winter.
Loosening of the soil in the near-trunk holes is of great importance. This event is carried out regularly in order to destroy weeds, ensure respiration of the root systems and aerate the surface layer of the soil at least 4-5 times during the growing season to a depth of 4-5 cm, so as not to damage the root systems. Loosening is done with garden hoes.
It is very useful during the summer period to sprinkle the crowns of young tree seedlings and the aboveground part of the shrubs with water, especially in dry weather. In the second year after planting, it is useful to combine sprinkling with foliar dressing in the form of solutions of mineral fertilizers.
So, for top dressing according to the recommendations of the greening sector of the cities of the Academy of Public Utilities, the following solutions can be used:
urea ……………… ..0.1% 1
ammonium nitrate …………… 0.2%
superphosphate ……………… 0.5-1%
potassium chloride …………… .0.5% - now
Working solutions of nitrogen and potassium fertilizers are prepared on the day of use by dissolving in cold tap water, and superphosphate is infused a day before use.
During the summer period, young plantings are constantly monitored: they check the attachment of trees to the stakes, tighten loose garters, and replace the broken ones with new ones. Fixing stakes are straightened if they bent or replaced if broken. In the third year after planting, after the plant is completely rooted, the fastening stakes are removed.
In autumn, the tree-trunk holes of trees and shrubs are loosened to a depth of 5-7 cm and peat or humus is poured over the surface with a layer of 3-4 cm to insulate the plants.
Maintenance of trees and shrubs during the operation of the landscaping object
All trees and shrubs in the landscaping site must be constantly maintained in a state of vital activity and meet decorative requirements. From this whole, a whole range of measures is taken to care for the above-ground part of the plants - the crown, branches, the trunk and for the underground part - the root systems throughout the life of the plant.
Care of the aboveground part of the plants. One of the main measures for the care of the aboveground part of trees and shrubs is to give the crown of the plant a decorative look by partially cutting off the shoots and individual branches. These operations are carried out on the basis of maximum consideration of the biological characteristics of plants.
Correctly carried out pruning allows you to improve the overall growth and development of the plant where it is necessary to give the crown a certain shape, remove dry, diseased and unnecessary branches thickening the crown. As a result of pruning, the ratio of the total mass of the crown and roots changes, and the number of suction roots that supply plants with minerals and water increases.
Crown care must be carried out throughout the life of the tree. At a young age, during a period of strong growth, such care should be intensive, at the time of maturity it comes down to cutting dry and dying branches. Pruning is a difficult technique, so it is necessary first of all to determine the goal, objectives and the end result. Pruning is carried out by experienced, highly skilled garden workers. When caring for the crowns of woody plants, three types of pruning are used: molding, sanitary and anti-aging.
Form trimming. The purpose of molding pruning is to achieve a more uniform arrangement of skeletal branches, give the crown an attractive appearance, level the overall height of the tree, and maintain its natural or artificial shape.
Rice. 1. Pruning the shoots and branches of the elm crown along a predetermined contour
When caring for the crown of trees, it is necessary to take into account its natural shape: cylindrical, pyramidal, oval, weeping, wide-rounded or spreading. When pruning branches, remember that you cannot drastically change the height and shape of the crown, which is characteristic of each type of tree.
Forming pruning includes pinching and shortening shoots, shaping and thinning the crown. Forming pruning begins in the nursery, when the desired crown shape * is laid when growing the plants.
Trees, freely distributed on lawns in the form of clumps, groups and single specimens, develop a natural crown shape characteristic of each species. Pruning such plants is about maintaining and preserving the natural appearance of the plant. Woody plants, planted in the alleys in accordance with the project, require constant formation and preservation of artificial forms of the crown - a ball, a cube, etc., as well as maintaining a certain height of the trunk.
To create trimmed decorative forms, the crown of the plant is cut along a predetermined contour (Fig. 1).
Rice. 2. Pruning and forming a crown in the form of a hemisphere in a hawthorn
When pruning, the age of the plants should be taken into account. Some species, such as larch and birch, respond favorably to pruning at a young age. So, birch at a young age tolerates light pruning well; when pruning skeletal branches in young larch, a mass of young shoots emerges, developing from the trunk. The oak withstands partial pruning at a young age. Ash and beech can only be cut up to 40 years old, the bark of these rocks after 40 years becomes very hard, and dormant buds are not able to break through it.
Seedlings at a young age need short pruning, or pinching, of strongly growing shoots, the growth of which must be delayed in order to create conditions for the growth of lagging shoots. Moreover, the upper buds are removed, which contributes to the growth and development of shoots from the lateral buds, and this, in turn, increases the density of the crown and improves its decorative effect. Pinching also stimulates the formation of flower buds, maintains the desired crown shape, and ensures balance between the crown and the root system of plants. The pinching should be provided for one or two, sometimes three kidneys.
Shoot shortening is done to create an evenly developed crown at a young age. In slow-growing tree species (elm, linden, Norway maple, apple trees), when shortening, 20-50% of the annual growth should be removed (Fig. 3), in fast-growing (ash-leaved maple, poplars, green ash) - up to 60-70% of the growth. Shortening shoots to internal or external buds allows the development of compact or spreading crowns. In addition, shortening the shoots from the upper part of the crown promotes the formation of stronger shoots from the middle part of the crown.
Thinning the crowns by vigorous pruning is necessary to restore the biological and physiological relationship between the crown and the root system. With age, many trees begin to thicken the crown, weakened dormant buds and drying out branches appear, decorativeness deteriorates. As a result, in trees with a disturbed crown, it is necessary to carry out a strong pruning of branches, cut out all oppressed, weak, drying out branches, which will give the crown a more attractive appearance. In some cases, the branches are cut to 2/3 of the length. Branches or their parts covering each other are subject to removal (Fig. 4).
Rice. 4. Scheme of crown thinning in Norway maple a - before thinning; 6 - after thinning
Thinning crowns is a complex pruning technique. In each case, an individual approach is required for each type. With age, in elms, lindens, maples, when the plants reach their bloom, the growth of shoots in the middle part of the crown weakens, and thickening stops. Stronger buds are laid at the ends of the branches. During this period, pruning should be sharply limited by partial shortening of the shoots. As a result, the leaves become larger, the leaf canopy fills the entire space of the crown.
It is more expedient to form the crown of trees before the beginning of the growing season - in March - early April; Pruning in winter (in areas with harsh winters) can cause frost damage to the branches and dry buds around the cut.
The frequency of pruning work is different, for example, the crowns of species such as fast-growing poplars, fluffy ash, should be pruned annually, especially where it is required to maintain a certain height and shape. Crowns of slow-growing deciduous trees, such as linden, maple, elm, must be cut at least once every 2-3 years. However, it should be borne in mind that these breeds form a crown well in a natural way, and when pruning shoots, as a rule, they should be limited to shortening one-year increments; only individual shoots and branches that are too long are cut for two to three years of wood.
Sanitary pruning. The purpose of this pruning is to cut out old, damaged, intertwined shoots. The main task of sanitary pruning is reduced to uniform thinning in order to create better ventilation and illumination of the crown. First of all, diseased branches, drying out, broken and growing inside the crown, are subject to removal. Branches close to each other or rubbing against each other are also removed. In this case, the weakest are cut out of the two close ones. In the crown of trees, especially young ones, branches sometimes appear that extend from the trunk at an acute angle or grow almost vertically upward. Growing up, they turn into branches of almost the same thickness as the tree trunk. Growth rings at the base of such branches from the side of contact with each other are not formed or develop weakly, their connection with the trunk becomes insufficiently strong, in strong winds they often break off, break off the trunk, on which a large lacerated wound remains, spoiling the appearance of the tree and being a place of infection with fungal diseases. That is why such branches must be removed in a timely manner, preventing them from growing.
Sanitary pruning is carried out throughout the growing season. When plants are in a leafy state, dry or dying branches can be easily distinguished from healthy ones. Pruning is carried out by removing a diseased or dying shoot on a ring with an oblique cut at the very base of the branch above a healthy bud. In this case, the kidney must not be touched, and the lower cut point should be in the plane of the kidney base. Large branches are removed in two steps by cutting with a hacksaw. The first incision must be made at a distance of 20-30 cm from the trunk on the lower side, and the second on the upper side; the branch (third cut) is cut down at the very base of the trunk. The sections are cleaned with a knife so that there is no laceration. Hemp and thorns should not be left, they spoil the appearance and cause the formation of hollows (Fig. 5).
Sanitary pruning also aims to remove the growth (fatty) shoots that form inside the crown or on the trunk; these shoots usually weaken the tree greatly and are cut into a ring at the very base.
When cutting dry branches from trees, the overgrowth of wounds occurs slowly, since the cambium is usually dead at the cut. Therefore, pruning should be done, if possible, to healthy wood. To prevent the formation of rot, large sections are coated with garden putty. In the practice of gardening, various recipes for garden putties are used. Ordinary oil paint can be used as the simplest treatment for wounds and cuts. It is best to use ocher, red lead, white lead; paint should be diluted in vegetable oil (mineral oil is not recommended, as it contains elements that are toxic to plants). On cuts and wounds, paint is applied twice as thick as when painting.
Rice. 5. Techniques for pruning branches and shoots a - pruning branches; b - correct pruning of the shoot; c - incorrect cropping
A good tool can be a special composition - petrolatum or lanolin paste, to which a 0.01-0.1% solution of heteroauxin is added; lubricated with a thin layer of such a composition or paste, wounds heal quickly.
Anti-aging pruning. By old age, many trees lose their decorative qualities, their leaves become smaller and become pale green, the growth of shoots is sharply reduced. In urban landscaping, woody plants age earlier than in natural conditions. The practice of exploitation has established that if you carry out a strong pruning of prematurely aging trees, you can stimulate their viability.
When rejuvenating, after removing the shrunken part of the top of the tree, a mass of shoots emerging from one place appears, and the tree takes on an unattractive appearance. Therefore, when pruning, it is necessary to preserve part of the main branch, and cut the remaining shoots significantly. After such an operation, the tree forms a new crown of a more natural shape.
Plants should be rejuvenated in early spring. As a rule, only trees that tolerate pruning well can withstand rejuvenation, the top of which begins to dry out, and growth has ceased. The rejuvenation process is carried out gradually over 2-3 years, starting from the top and large skeletal branches of the tree (Fig. 46). In this case, pruning should be carried out in such a way that the emerging new shoots can form a crown in the future. Bunches of newly formed shoots are thinned out, otherwise new strong branches will not be able to form. Trees subjected to rejuvenation should be carefully looked after: loosen the soil in the area of distribution of the root system, apply mineral and organic fertilizers, and water. In general, it is necessary to resort to rejuvenating trees only in exceptional cases, in accordance with the location of the plants and their biological characteristics.
Rice. 6. An example of a gradual rejuvenating pruning of an aging tree that is losing its decorative effect
Tree trunk care. Caring for a tree trunk consists in its timely inspection, elimination of overgrowth, and sealing of the resulting hollows. Hollows appear as a result of accidental mechanical damage, improper branching, frost cracks. All these injuries cause a slight decay of the trunk, which, developing and deepening, gives rise to a hollow. This is why it is best to quickly heal a fresh wound. To do this, you must first clean it with a sharp knife to healthy wood, then disinfect it with a 5% solution of copper sulfate and cover with garden putty, and if a hollow has formed, its inner surface should be disinfected with a 5% solution of copper sulfate and cemented. A cement mortar is used as a cementing material, to which crushed stone or brick chips are added. After the cement has hardened, the damaged surfaces are covered with paint (matching the color of the wood).
Hollow trees in most trees are treated in the warm season (from May to October). The exceptions are birches, maples and poplars, for which such treatment is recommended in early spring, during active cambial activity.
In old trees, sometimes it is necessary to remove drying out large branches that lose their decorative effect. This operation requires great care and thoroughness, as the healing of wounds in old trees is very slow. Some beautiful, heavy, leaning branches can break off and form a laceration on the trunk. For such branches, special supports are arranged in order to preserve them and not spoil the decorative appearance of the tree.
Washing tree crowns. In the absence of rain for a long time, the leaves of trees in large and industrial cities are covered with a layer of dust, which causes clogging of the stomata, worsens photosynthesis, and hinders metabolism. Overheating of leaves in dry hot weather leads to a violation of the structure of chloroplasts, wilting, drying and premature fall. When washing the crowns, carried out in the early morning hours or in the evening, harmful insects are removed along with the dust.
During the growing season, the crowns of deciduous trees are washed 5-6 times, conifers - 8-10 times. In this case, washing is carried out by spraying until the leaf blades, as well as branches and trunk, are completely wetted. Spraying can be done using hoses from water washers or water pipes; special spray tips must be installed at the ends of the hoses to ensure an even coverage of the sheet surface.
Water consumption per tree is (in l):
at the age of 8-11 years …………… ..15-20
"" 12-20 "…………… ..20-30
"" 21-30 "…………… ..40-50
"" From 30 years old and above …………. Up to 100
Foliar dressing and protection of the aerial part from pests. It was mentioned above that foliar feeding can be a useful agrotechnical method of care for young plantings under the age of 20. Older trees need protection from pests, which are usually concentrated in the aerial part of the plant. Currently, the method of simultaneous protection of trees from pests and mineral foliar feeding is gaining popularity. This method is based on the combined use of aqueous solutions of insecticides to destroy pests and mineral nutrients. Mixtures of drugs are sprayed onto the leaf surface of plants, branches and shoots. Sucking pests, such as ticks, aphids, and leaf flies, are destroyed by toxic chemicals.
For complex use, the following insecticide solutions can be used:
methylmercaptophos ………… ..0.05-0.1%
phosphamide ……………… 0.05-0.1%
karbofos ……………………………… ..0.1-0.2%
and as additions to pesticides, solutions of mineral fertilizers:
potassium chloride ……………………… .0.5%
granular superphosphate …………… .1,0%
Working solutions of chemicals are prepared at a concentration of 1: 10–1: 15. Each fertilizer is dissolved in a separate container and the required amount of solution is taken when filling the sprayer tank. Superphosphate is infused in water for 2 days, potash fertilizers are dissolved in water immediately before spraying. Working solutions of pesticides with fertilizers are prepared in the following way: fill the tank with water by about 1/3, add the required amount of pesticides and mix. Then the amount of fertilizer solution calculated for full filling is poured, mixed again and the rest of the water is added. Treatment with pesticides and mineral fertilizers * does not have a negative toxic effect and is quite effective for such tree species as warty birch, common elm, common oak, ash-leaved and holly maples, horse chestnut, small-leaved linden, Siberian larch, mountain ash, common ash and downy ...
Treatment can be carried out with various types of sprayers mounted on cars or tractors. The best treatment period for plants is the initial phase of the plant growing season. It is at this time that fertilizers have a beneficial effect on plants. In urban plantings, pests usually also appear at the beginning of the growing season. As a result, the complex use of mineral fertilizers and insecticides is beneficially reflected in the further growth and development of plants.
It is more advisable to process plants with aqueous solutions in the morning and evening hours or cloudy days without rain; daytime treatment, especially in hot weather, is not recommended, because, firstly, the solutions dry out quickly and the preparations hardly penetrate the plants and, secondly, spraying in the heat leads to leaf burns. It is impossible to carry out treatment before rain and immediately after rain, as well as during strong winds. The lack of moisture in the soil at a relative humidity of less than 60% reduces the effectiveness of fertilizing. That is why, if the soil is dry, the plants must be watered before treatment.
Shrub pruning. Caring for the aboveground part of the shrubs is mainly reduced to timely and correct pruning of shoots and branches. Correctly carried out pruning significantly affects the longevity and decorativeness of plants. Pruning is also necessary for the formation of plant habit, regulation of its size, improvement of the quality and abundance of flowering, fruiting, as well as for rejuvenation and general recovery.
Evergreen shrubs rarely need pruning, except for those used in hedges in southern areas. Species such as aucuba, evergreen barberry, daphne, heather, cistus, erica, calmia, pyracantha, rhododendron do not need pruning at all. True, sometimes in these species it is necessary to remove drying out branches or shoots, to shorten the latter if they have become a little longer than others or have broken from a strong wind. In heathers, last year's faded shoots are cut off by no more than the length of a one-year shoot, in rhododendrons, late inflorescences are removed.
Rice. 7. Pruning shrubs a - cutting dry branches; b - thinning the bush
Deciduous shrubs are pruned for flowering time. They can be divided into two large groups. The first includes those types of shrubs in which flowers are formed on the shoots of the current year, to the second - breeds in which flowers are formed on the growths of previous years.
Shrubs of the first group must be cut during the dormant period - late autumn or early spring, before sap flow begins. Late-flowering species include: kalyn-leaved bladder, mockweed, privet, cinquefoil, Japanese spirea, Douglas and willow leaf, budlea, hydrangea, mountain ash, snowberry, tamarisk, etc.
The degree of pruning of late flowering shrubs depends on their species characteristics. Summer-flowering spireas, which have a large number of thin and weak shoots, are cut 10-15 cm above the root collar in spring ("planting on a stump"), after which the bushes give a strong young plant bearing numerous flower buds (Fig. 7, b).
The second group includes lilacs, honeysuckle, forsythia, early flowering spireas, etc. Flower buds in these species are laid a year before flowering and growth occurs simultaneously with flowering, usually in early summer. Seed ovaries are removed from such plants. Early flowering shrubs must be thinned out, otherwise they are prone to thickening, which will lead to a deterioration in flowering and a loss of decorative effect.
Rejuvenating shrub pruning consists in removing all aging branches that spoil the look of the bush, except for those that are in good condition and have normal development (Fig. 8). With excessive thickening, the bush turns into a shapeless mass of greenery, produces few flowers and grows slowly. The task is to cut off all the old, broken off shoots that prevent each other from growing and leave a few of the strongest and youngest ones. Such an operation is subjected to lilacs and other large shrubs. Rejuvenation is done in two steps: in the first year, part of the branches is cut, in the second year, the rest. Pruning must be done immediately after flowering, so that nutrients are not wasted on seed formation, but go to the growth of young shoots and the formation of flowering buds on them for the next year.
Rice. 8. An example of rejuvenating pruning of a large bush by "planting on a tree stump"
Forming trimming of hedges and curbs. Pruning or shearing of hedges is done several times during the growing season so as to maintain a given shape (Fig. 9). The first haircut after planting, as if decisive, is performed in the spring at the beginning of the growing season - in May or early June. At the same time, 1 / 2-1 / 3 of the growth of shoots is cut off. In the summer, repeated haircuts are carried out, keeping their shape and cutting off the shoots at the level of the first haircut. These haircuts awaken dormant buds located below the trim level on the sides, and due to this, there is no exposure of the hedge from below. As the plants grow, the degree of pruning is increased to 2/3 of the average length of the shoots.
The number of hedge trimming at a young age should not exceed two per growing season. When plants enter the stage of complete decorativeness, the number of haircuts can be increased in fast-growing species to four to six, in slow-growing ones - to three to four.
Rice. 9. Schemes for the formation of hedges a, b - rectangular; c - with a trapezoidal cross-sectional profile
Any hedge profile shape can be achieved with a haircut. The most commonly used fences with rectangular, trapezoidal, triangular and semi-oval cross-sectional profiles (Fig. 9). The biological characteristics of plant growth and development should also be taken into account. So, light-loving species do not tolerate the formation of a rectangular profile; the lower parts develop poorly, form small foliage, and the hedge is bare from below and loses its decorative effect. The lateral surface, as experience shows, should be somewhat inclined towards the horizon. It is then that all parts of the plant are evenly illuminated, which creates normal conditions for the growth and development of shoots and leaves.
Hedges, overgrown, bare from below and lost their decorative effect, are corrected, that is, as they say, "put on a stump." At the same time, the entire above-ground part of the plants is cut off, leaving hemp 5-10 cm high. The resulting sections must be cleaned and covered with garden putty, and the soil around the plants must be loosened and fertilized. After planting on a stump in the spring of the same year, the plants give new long shoots. Cutting the shoots of the new growth is done in the usual way: the first in late May - early June at a given height, the subsequent ones in the order of trimming at the level of the first.
For cutting hedges, special garden shears, pneumatic electric shears with an electric drive are used. In domestic practice, in a number of cities, various mechanisms and machines are used for shearing hedges (Fig. 10, a, b).
To cut hedges along park paths, you can use the T-10K self-propelled brush cutter. In the Baltic cities, electro-pneumatic garden shears SEN-2 with a working body width of 50 cm and a hedge productivity of 240 m2 in 1 hour are used. firm "Honda" powered by a special generator.
For cutting hedges along alleys in strips on the streets of Moscow, a special apparatus of the "mower" type is used, which is hung on the side of the tractor (Fig. 10.6). The device consists of two knives making counter-oscillatory movements. The width of the strip processed in one pass is 1380 mm. The hedge can be trimmed vertically, horizontally and obliquely. The maximum height at which the device works is 170 cm, and the productivity is 1000-3000 m2 of hedges per 1 hour of operation.
Rice. 10. Machines with devices b) for shearing hedges a - with a device on a motor scooter; b - the same, on a self-propelled chassis
Protection of the above-ground part of the shrubs in the winter.
In the conditions of the northern regions, the middle zone of the RSFSR and areas with severe winters, the correct protection of exotic plants, which include evergreen deciduous and conifers, such as mahonia, rhododendron, yew, thuja, juniper, is of great importance. The main task is to protect the aboveground part of the plants from drying out. It should be noted that plants especially suffer from sudden temperature changes in late winter and early spring.
Rice. 11. Scheme of shelter of valuable plant species for the winter with straw mats
Taking care of the underground part of trees and shrubs. Caring for the underground part of established trees: and shrubs is to create favorable conditions in the root space of plants in order to ensure good growth and development of roots. This is achieved by timely and systematic loosening of the soil around the plant (in the area of the near-stem circle), watering the plants, especially in dry times, applying fertilizers, and warming for the winter. Surface loosening and watering are carried out in the first time after the end of the survival period, within 5-6 years. Fertilization and dressing are usually carried out throughout the life of the plant. Warming for the winter is done in the first years after survival and throughout life - in exotic plants and plants that do not tolerate frost well.
Caring for the root systems of plants is based on taking into account environmental factors and knowledge of the biological properties of plants.
It should be noted that woody and shrubby plants in landscaping objects can be found in various growing conditions, for example, in the walking part of a garden or park - on lawns in groups, clumps and massifs - or near buildings and structures, in street strips, near paths, playgrounds and etc.
Studies have established that the root systems of trees and shrubs are located in different ways, have different branching patterns and depths, the number of absorbing roots and their size, depending on the different growing conditions of plants. Taking into account the growing conditions, it is possible to more expediently carry out measures for the care of root systems, to establish, for example, the optimal mode of irrigation, fertilization and the frequency of these measures. Knowing also the depth of the roots in different species, it is possible to preset the depth of loosening the soil around the plant. In tree species growing in urban conditions (in holes on sidewalks), the bulk of the roots (70-90%) extends to a depth of 50-60 cm, and the branching of the roots occurs at a distance of up to 1 m from the tree trunk, and the roots partially leave under the asphalt.
Trees on the streets in lawn dividing strips 2-3 m wide grow much better, and most of their roots branch out 1 m or more from the trunk. An elongated, but more superficial root system develops along the strip of the lawn, extending to a depth of 40-50 cm; individual roots extend from the trunk by 2.5-3 m or more. On lawn lawns of gardens and parks, the bulk of the roots lies at a depth of 70-80 cm and extends from the trunk to 3.5-4 m.
The timing of tree root care is largely determined by the frequency of growth of root systems. Regardless of the species of woody plants, the onset of periods of maximum root growth is closely related to the main phenophases - flowering, end of shoot growth, ripening of fruits and leaf fall. Root growth in woody plants usually begins before leafing. In the southern regions of the country, this occurs in February-March, in areas of the middle zone - in April-early May. In woody plants blooming in spring, the maximum root growth occurs quite early, simultaneously with the opening of leaves. With the onset of shoot growth, the intensity of root formation diminishes somewhat.
As soon as the growth of shoots stops, a new period of root formation begins. With the onset of fruit ripening, the intensity of root growth decreases again. During the yellowing of the leaves and the beginning of leaf fall, even in warm weather, a number of tree species rapidly form new roots. The so-called period of the autumn maximum growth of the suction roots begins. After the end of leaf fall, root formation stops. Trees by the number of periods of maximum growth can be grouped into four groups.
The first group includes rocks with a constant period of root formation; root growth occurs until late autumn. This group includes: Canadian poplars, pyramidal, Bolle and Simone, white acacia. A uniformly high level of root formation is observed throughout the season.
The second group includes rocks with two periods of maximum root formation: at the beginning of summer and at the beginning of autumn. The species of the second group include: small-leaved, large-leaved and Crimean lindens, Norway maples, field and silver maples, green ash trees, fluffy and common, smooth and common elms, horse chestnut, Amur velvet, Manchurian and gray walnut.
The third group includes rocks with three periods of maximum root formation - spring, spring-summer and autumn. The species of this group include: Ginnala and sugar maples, warty, paper and yellow birches, pedunculate and red oaks, green poplar, bird cherry, Virginia and Maaka, Pennsylvanian cherry, mountain ash, Siberian larch.
The fourth group is formed by rocks with four periods of maximum root growth. These are mainly fruit trees: Ussuri pear, sycamore and Siberian pear, etc.
In connection with the frequency of growth of root systems, it is advisable to apply organic-mineral fertilizers during periods of maximum growth of the absorbing roots. The first time this should be done in the spring and early summer during the growth of shoots and flowering. So, for Norway maple - this is the third decade of April, for warty birch, small-leaved and large-leaved linden - this is the first half of May. For fluffy ash and common ash, Ginnal maple, gray walnut, and Pennsylvania cherry, the first fertilization date is the second half of May.
The second term for applying fertilizers (potash and phosphorus) is at the end of summer and autumn. At this time, fruits ripen in tree species, leaf fall begins. During the period of the summer minimum growth of the suction roots, it is advisable to carry out surface loosening of the soil in the near-trunk circles and water the plants. The provision of nutrients and stimulants during the period of maximum growth of the absorbing roots contributes to the intensive growth of shoots, the formation of leaves, abundant flowering and, in general, increases the resistance and decorative effect of plants in an urban environment.
Watering of established plants is carried out in dry weather, as well as during the period of maximum growth of suction roots. It is necessary to ensure that the moisture content in the soil is at least 60% of the maximum moisture capacity.
In dry and hot weather, plants are watered more often than usual, about once every 7 days.
Fertilizers can be applied dry, before watering, or in liquid form. It is better to apply dry mineral fertilizers in the form of a mixture: 1 wt. part of ammonium nitrate, 3 wt. parts of superphosphate and 1 wt. part of the potassium salt. The application rate of the mixture is 35-40 g per 1 m2 of the well. The mixture is prepared just before fertilizing the soil.
Mineral fertilizers are applied: by the surface method - into the top layer of the soil, followed by embedding and watering; in a deep way - into wells or grooves, which are torn off with a depth of 20-30 cm along the edges of the hole; a mixture of fertilizers is scattered on the bottom of such grooves at the rate of 200 g per 1 m of the groove length. Then the groove is covered with soil and the plant is watered abundantly with water.
Mineral liquid feed has the advantage that the nutrients are in aqueous solution,
which quickly penetrates the suction roots, and the plants are simultaneously provided with mineral nutrition and water.
The optimal concentrations of aqueous solutions of fertilizers for tree and shrub species are:
ammonium nitrate …………… ..0.2%
superphosphate ………………. 3.0%
potassium chloride ……………… 0.2%
Amount of solution for feeding one woody plant (in l):
at the age of 10-20 years …………… .. 30
the same, 20 years or more …………… .. 50
per bush …………………… 10-15
Heteroauxin can be added to mineral fertilizers at a dose of 0.001-0.003% or ammonium salt of chanonic polycarboxylic acid (APC) 0.005-0.0075%.
The use of a hydrodrill for tree care. Mineral fertilizers and growth stimulants in the root zones of large trees, for example, when planting them on the streets, can be applied using a special hydraulic device called a hydrodrill. The hydrodrill serves to supply water, fertilizer solutions and growth stimulants directly to the zone of occurrence of the bulk of plant roots.
The hydraulic drill consists of a metal rod made of a pipe with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 1000-1200 mm (Fig. 12, a). A regulator handle with a measuring machine is attached to the upper end of the rod, and a sharp tip is attached to the lower end. A hydraulic drill using a distribution device (Fig. 12, b) is mounted on a watering machine or tractor sprayer. The tank of the machine is filled with water or a solution of fertilizers and growth stimulants.
To activate the hydraulic drill, it is removed from the machine and inserted, pressing the handle, into the soil of the near-trunk hole (Fig. 12, b). Then the pump of the machine is turned on, and the liquid under a pressure of 5 atm flows through the hydraulic drill into the soil, while flushing the well. After the formation of the well, the pressure should be reduced to 0.5-1 atm, and then the liquid begins to wet the soil, evenly distributed over the entire root zone, and wets the roots. The use of a hydrodrill significantly increases labor productivity and reduces costs by an average of 2-2.5 times.
In the practice of some foreign countries (USA, England), feeding of large trees is carried out with the help of special metal tubes driven into the root zone during planting (Fig. 13). At the same time, fixing stakes are placed in the tubes, to which the stretch marks are attached. When the tree needs to be watered or fed, the stakes are removed and water and fertilizer solutions are poured into the tubes, which penetrate through the holes to the roots of the plants.
Warming of root systems. Greenhouse humus, decomposed peat, fallen leaves, sawdust, moss can be used as an insulating material. The best insulating materials are humus and peat, which also serve as an excellent fertilizer. Insulating material with a layer of 15 cm is spread along the trunk circle or hole. When planting shrubs in groups, the entire area occupied by the group is insulated. Hedges are insulated with a continuous strip 60-70 cm wide. For better insulation of the roots, especially when planting on the streets, it is recommended to pour loose snow on top of the insulating layer with a layer of 30-40 cm.
Rice. 12. Arrangement of a hydrodrill for tree care a - hydrodrill; 1 - fitting; 2 - handle; 3 - measuring cup; 4 - needle; 5 - tip; b - distributor; 1 - fitting; 2 - valve; 3 - pipe; 4 - connecting head; c - a diagram of the use of a hydrodrill
Rice. 13. Method of watering and feeding plants using tubes
As already mentioned, exotics need to simultaneously cover the aboveground part and insulate the root systems.
Wet snow sticks to the branches, forming heavy caps that can break the branches at their base. Dump snow from tree tops as needed.
Rodents are especially active in March. Periodically "trample" snow around tree trunks, lay out poisoned baits using empty containers (cans, boxes, containers).
Carefully inspect tree trunks for damage from rodents (mice, hares, etc.). If there is damage, the wounds must be cleaned with a sharp garden knife, and then covered with garden paste or pitch.
To prevent bark burns in March, it is necessary to whitewash the trunks and bases of the skeletal branches (2.5 kg of lime, 1 kg of clay and 0.3 kg of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water). If this is problematic, wrap the tree trunks with 2 layers of paper or newspaper. It will be possible to remove the bandages after the snow melts and the soil thaws.
Your conifers can suffer from sunburn. Install shading screens made of agrospan or other material, which can also be removed after the snow melts and the soil thaws.
As the snow cover melts, it is necessary to remove the shelters from the conifers and replace them with shading structures in order to avoid the needles decaying during prolonged thaws.
When thawing a shelter on roses and other shrubs, it is necessary to arrange ventilation vents while the temperature is above zero.
When the average daily temperatures are set at least -5 degrees, you can start pruning trees, while you must adhere to the following rule:
1) First, sanitary pruning is performed with cutting of broken and diseased branches;
2) Further, large skeletal and semi-skeletal branches thickening the crown, if necessary, as well as branches growing inside the crown, are cut out "on a ring";
3) Depending on the variety and age of the tree, the central conductor and the shoots competing with it, as well as some branches of the upper tier, are shortened.
The cuts should be smooth, the wounds are covered with garden paste or pitch. Pruning must be completed before the sap begins to flow.
Snow melting ends and it is necessary to remove the excess melt water from trees and shrubs in time in order to avoid the root system getting wet.
Continue airing roses in shelters in warm weather. If frosts are expected below -7 degrees, roses are covered again. The cover of roses is removed gradually, in several stages, leaving the shading of the spruce branches. Shading is completely removed in warm, cloudy weather, when the buds begin to grow.
It's time to clear the trunks and skeletal branches of trees from dead bark, while destroying pests hibernating under the bark. If there are frost cracks or other wounds, it is necessary to clean them with a knife, treat them with a solution of copper sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water), and then cover them with garden paste or var.
After thawing and drying of the soil, it is necessary to remove last year's leaves, plant debris, windbreak and other garden debris.
When the average daily temperatures are not lower than +5 degrees, preventive spraying of trees and shrubs with fungicides should be carried out: copper sulfate, HOM, oxy-HOM, Bordeaux mixture, "Abiga-Peak".
If there are conifers weakened after wintering on the site, it is advisable to treat them with an EPINA solution, provided that the average daily temperatures are not lower than +10 +12 degrees.
At the onset of the above temperatures, when the threat of recurrent frosts has disappeared and the buds have started to grow, you can start pruning roses. To do this, you need to prepare a sharp pruner, a disinfectant solution in the form of a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% solution of copper sulfate for treating tools, garden paste or garden var for treating wounds.
General pruning rules:
- make only smooth cuts, otherwise, if the cut is crumpled, the wood and bark dry up, turning into a focus of infection;
- the cut should pass obliquely, not higher than 5 mm above the kidney - so that moisture does not get on it;
- the stems should be shortened to healthy tissue (the core should be white);
- you need to cut off on the outer bud, so that later the center of the bush is not shaded and the shoots do not intersect;
- all dead, diseased, weak and thin shoots are removed to the base (per ring) and burned;
- if several stems grow from the bud, they are removed, leaving only one;
- the cuts are treated with garden paste or garden varnish;
- after each trimming, prophylactic spraying with 1% copper sulfate solution should be carried out.
In grafted roses, it is necessary to check whether wild growth has appeared. It is cut off at the base, if necessary, the soil is dug up.
Formative The pruning of roses is short (strong), medium (moderate) and long (weak). With a strong pruning, 1 - 2 buds are left, with an average - 4 - 6, with a weak - 8 - 12 buds. With any type of pruning, the thickening shoots growing inside the bush are first cut. Branches and shoots should not overlap and interfere with each other. The general principle for choosing the type of pruning is as follows: vigorously growing shoots are pruned weakly, shoots of medium height - moderately, weakly growing - strongly.
Weak pruning is done in park and climbing roses, which bloom only on the upper and middle parts of last year's shoots. Old shoots are cut out of a rugosa rose, leaving 5 - 7 younger shoots in the bush.
Average pruning is done in remontant, hybrid tea, grandiflora roses, leaving 7 - 9 well-developed buds.
Strong pruning is carried out in floribunda, miniature and polyanthus roses.
On new shoots of replacement, from 3 to 5 well-developed buds are left, on the branches of the first and second order - 1 - 2 buds. Old shoots (more than 3 years old) are cut to the root collar, which contributes to the formation of new replacement shoots in the current year.
In addition, the pruning of roses should be carried out in accordance with the varietal characteristics. You must clearly understand what you want to achieve by pruning this variety: exhibition quality of flowers, abundant and early flowering, a certain shape of the bush, or prolonging the life of the plant. Remember: By cutting out old branches, you stimulate the emergence of new young shoots that provide abundant flowering.
The soil has warmed up and dried up. The time has come to add fertilizing in the form of nitrogen or complex mineral fertilizers to the near-trunk circles of trees and shrubs, having previously carried out abundant watering. We add ammonium nitrate, Kemirau - universal, for roses - Toprose at the rate of no more than 20 - 30 gr. for 1 sq. meter. After applying fertilizers, the soil must be loosened. Organic fertilizer (manure, compost) is also a good idea if it was not done in the fall. Attention: use only well-rotted manure.
After loosening and leveling the soil, it is necessary to mulch:
- in deciduous trees and shrubs with humus, compost, crushed bark or chips from deciduous species with a layer of 4-7 cm.
- in conifers with humus, compost, high-moor peat or its mixture with humus, crushed bark or chips from conifers with a layer of 5 - 8 cm.
With early spring pruning, you can miss many nuances: the condition of the plant cannot always be accurately diagnosed. After the leaves bloom, there is no longer any doubt. Now you can clean up everything that was not completed in early spring. At this time follows:
- remove the remaining dead and diseased shoots;
- to shorten shoots with signs of winter frostbite.
When you're done trimming, don't forget to treat the wounds with garden paste or stew.
When the soil dries up, carry out timely periodic watering.
It is necessary to carry out preventive treatment of trees and shrubs:
- from pests - insecticidal preparations of the pyrethroid class ("Fastak", "Confidor", "Arrivo", etc.);
- from diseases - systemic fungicides such as "Skor", "Topaz";
- “Rose Clear” can be used as a fungicide for roses.
All treatments must be carried out in dry, calm weather, when precipitation is not expected. Otherwise, processing should be postponed.
It must be remembered that preventive treatments may be ineffective if problems with pests and diseases were on your site last year and the previously taken measures were insufficient. In this case, it is better to use the services of a specialist.
Grigory DROZDOV
Compared to other types of planting (rockeries, mixborders, rose gardens), trees do not require as much attention to themselves if they are properly cared for during the first few years.
Basic maintenance activities include watering, loosening, weeding of tree circles, top dressing, and formative pruning.
Within two to three years, it is necessary to regularly check the straps (ensure the immobility of the root ball in the ground and protect the growing roots from rupture in windy weather) and weaken them as the trunk thickens (constrictions prevent the flow of nutrients from the roots to the crown, slow down the growth and development of the tree ).
Spring
In March-April, before bud break, the dead bark is cleaned from the boles with a metal brush. At the same time, trees are pruned:
- sanitary - remove sick, frozen and damaged branches;
- formative - they form the habit of the plant, regulate its size, create a symmetrical, uniform crown and a strong skeleton, which affects the resistance of trees to wind and the illumination of the crown, leads to an improvement in the quality of flowering, an increase in the size of fruits. Formation includes pinching, shortening shoots and thinning the crown. Thinning of crowns ensures physiological and biological conformity of the crown and root system, better ventilation and illumination of the crowns. Sick, damaged, old, intertwining and weak branches are cut out and create a feathery, stemless, standard, tiered, spherical or flat crown.
In fast-growing species (poplars, ash-leaved maple, green ash, etc.) at a young age, it is recommended to remove 60 - 70% of the annual growth, and in slow-growing (apple, lime, elm, Norway maple, etc.) - 20 - 50%. This shortening promotes the formation of strong shoots from the middle part of the crown. Fast-growing species (poplar, downy ash, etc.) are pruned annually. Slow-growing (maples, elms, lindens, etc.) are pruned every two to three years by shortening the annual growth.
Anti-aging pruning is carried out to stimulate the life of plants by pruning 2-4 years old wood. Such rejuvenation of plants is carried out only in trees that have stopped growing, and only in those that tolerate pruning well (willow, poplar, almond, hawthorn). The rejuvenation process is carried out gradually over 2-3 years so that new shoots can form a natural crown shape. Trees that have undergone anti-aging pruning require careful maintenance.
Shrub pruning
Shrubs differ in their biological characteristics. Some bloom on last year's shoots, others on this year's shoots. Everyone has a different growth rate and shoot-forming ability. As a result, they require different pruning.
Beautiful flowering shrubs are grown for great flowers, so the main goal of pruning them is to achieve abundant flowering. By the peculiarities of pruning, flowering shrubs should be divided into three groups.
The first group includes shrubs that do not form powerful replacing shoots from the base or lower part of the crown. Annual growth of these shrubs appears along the crown perimeter. Of the most common plants in garden plots, such shrubs include: common viburnum, cotoneaster, scumpia, irga, magnolia (stellate and Sulange), Japanese quince (chaenomeles). They need minimal pruning. In the first years after planting, it is very important to form the skeleton of the plant from strong branches. To do this, in the early spring (during the dormant period), remove all weak, intersecting and incorrectly located shoots. Pruning mature shrubs can be limited by removing dried, damaged and diseased branches. If necessary, some live shoots are also removed or pruned in order to maintain the symmetry of the branches and the desired decorative appearance of the bushes.
The second group includes shrubs that bloom on last year's shoots. These include: broom, action, forsythia, kerria, blood-red currant, ashy spirea, Tunber spiraea, Wangutta spirea, nippon spiraea, sharp-toothed spirea, honeysuckle, stephanandra, weigela, forsythia, tamarix, lilac. They usually bloom in spring or early summer. The planted plants are not cut off much - they are limited to the removal of weak and damaged branches. Immediately after flowering, faded branches are cut off, leaving a strong developing growth, and thin and weak growths are removed. And in subsequent years, pruning of shrubs of this group should be carried out immediately after flowering. Faded branches are cut off, leaving the best lower young growths and at the same time forming a beautiful crown of the bush. You should also regularly cut to the base a fourth of the old branches that have become unproductive - this will ensure the emergence of young powerful shoots from the base of the bush.
However, there are some nuances. In Japanese kerrias, faded branches should be cut to the base or into strong young shoots. Garden hydrangea (especially at a young age), on the contrary, is pruned purely "cosmetically" - only weak and damaged shoots are removed. And in adult hydrangeas, only a part of the old stems are removed in order to stimulate the annual formation of strong replacement shoots.
The third group includes shrubs that bloom on the shoots of the current year: David's buddlea, tseanotus, treelike and panicle hydrangea, privet, snowberry, fieldfare, three-lobed almonds, Japanese spirea, Boomald's spirea, willow spirea and Douglas spiraea. In early spring, adult shrubs of this group are strongly pruned so that they form powerful shoots - then they will bloom profusely in summer or early autumn. They cut out a weak growth and shorten the growth of the last year by ½, and in vigorous ones by 2/3. Without pruning, the quality of flowering of adult shrubs of the third group gradually decreases. In the first year after planting, young seedlings of these shrubs are not cut as much as in subsequent years (to ensure the normal development of their still weak root system). Subsequently, they are heavily pruned annually in early spring. In this case, all last year's shoot growths are cut to well-developed buds above the older part of the stem. If, after a few years, the main lignified branches thicken, they are thinned out, maintaining the decorative effect of the bush.
Ornamental deciduous shrubs species and forms with original foliage include: white-bordered form of white turf, golden form of black elderberry and spirea of Boomald, barberry of Thunberg, red-leaved forms of hazel, barberry, scumpia, bubblegum. This also includes species with beautiful annual shoots: varieties of white deren, willow, raspberry. They must be pruned annually in early spring, and pruned quite strongly (shorten last year's growth to 3-5 cm) in order to cause active growth of young shoots and their leaves have reached the maximum decorative effect.
Shrubs prone to thickening of the crown (chubushnik), it is better not to shorten, but to thin out every three years.
Evergreen rhododendrons do not prune, but carefully twist the flowers without damaging the growth buds under them. Frozen branches are cut out in late spring, when the buds are already swollen.
Trimming lavender and heathers aims to keep the bush compact and should therefore be done regularly.
Before the kidneys dissolve, the shelters are removed: first, the shelter is raised, enhancing the ventilation, but leaving partial shading, and after 10 days they are removed altogether; rake off the warming mulch to thaw the soil.
At the first opportunity, it is necessary to loosen the topsoil to a depth of 4-5 cm to preserve moisture reserves at a distance: 0.5 m from the trunk of trees up to 5 years and shrubs; 1.0 m from the trunk of trees 5-15 years old; 1.5 m from the trunk of trees for more than 15 years.
When the kidneys swell, the injuries are treated - the wounds are cleaned and disinfected with a 5% solution of copper sulfate.
Immediately after the snow melts, nitrogen fertilizers are applied at the rate of 10 g of urea per 1m 2.
The plantings are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid (1%) or copper oxychloride (0.3-0.4%) against pathogens.
With budding, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing frozen branches - they are easy to distinguish by unblown or dried leaves at the beginning of blooming.
When buds appear, you can once again process the plantings with a 0.3-0.4% solution of copper oxychloride in combination with a 0.1% solution of actellik, kinmix, decis or others against diseases and pests (it is impossible if the fruits will be used for food) and deep loosening followed by mulching with peat, humus or crushed wood chips.
If the weather is dry, it is necessary to water the plants. On average, the following irrigation rates (l) are applied:
Shrub saplings ……… .10 - 20;
Saplings of trees …………. 40 - 50;
Large trees ... ... 100 - 150;
Big trees ……………. 200 - 250.
Simultaneously with watering, you can add 0.001 - 0.003% heteroauxin solution to stimulate root formation. The stimulant solution is usually applied to the wells immediately after watering, evenly over the entire near-stem area.
Top dressing for tree plantations is just as important as for flower beds. They are necessary for the good development of the crown, large foliage, and abundant flowering. Hedges, which are regularly trimmed, can especially suffer from a lack of nutrients.
On young plantings, foliar feeding is useful, which is produced by spraying plants with solutions of mineral fertilizers of urea (0.1%); ammonium nitrate (0.2%), superphosphate (0.5-1.0%), potassium chloride (0.5%). Foliar dressing is combined with treatment with insecticide solutions. Process in the morning and evening hours or cloudy days without rain. Do not process in strong winds, before and immediately after rain. To ensure the effectiveness of feeding in dry soil, plants must be watered before treatment.
If the trunks are not mulched, then during flowering, a third cultivation is carried out in order to improve root respiration and destroy weeds.
Summer
After flowering, early flowering shrubs are pruned. On all breeds, shoots are removed and tops are removed. Hedges and borders are trimmed to give them a given decorative shape. At the same time, up to 1/2 of the growth of shoots is cut off from hedges and borders. During the season, 3-6 hedges are cut, depending on the growth rate of the plants. To fix hedges that are bare from below, you can cut off the entire above-ground part and leave hemp 5-10 cm high.
If you grow varieties with variegated foliage, then the appearance of green branches is not possible. They have a higher growth rate, and you will not notice how the whole plant "recolors" to its normal color. Therefore, green shoots are immediately cut out.
Many garden plants are grown as grafted, which means that you need to cut out the shoots in time (they come from the stock).
In dry weather, 6-8 waterings are carried out. The first watering is combined with liquid mineral fertilizing with mineral fertilizers in the following composition per 10 liters of solution: urea - 30 g, superphosphate 20 g, potassium salt - 10 g. 0.001 - 0.003% heteroauxin can be added to this solution. Watering at the rate of 30 liters for trees 10-20 years old, 50 liters for trees over 20 years old, 10-15 liters for shrubs. Optimal watering is ensured by the capillary irrigation system, which is one of the elements of the automatic irrigation system.
Watering is completed in mid-August with water-charging irrigation - 70-80 l / m2 for shrubs and 100-150 l / m2 for trees. After each watering, in the absence of mulch, the trunks are loosened.
During the summer, 5-6 washings of the crowns of deciduous shrubs and trees and 8-10 - of conifers are performed. Crowns are washed to remove dust and insects from the leaves. Washing the crowns improves photosynthesis, metabolism and heat exchange. Washing is carried out in the early morning hours or in the evening until the leaves, branches and trunk are completely wetted. Water consumption per tree depends on its age. So, for a tree 8-11 years old you need 15-20 liters of water, 12-20 years old - 20-30, 21-30 years old - 40-50, 30 years and older - up to 100 liters.
In July, 30 g / m2 of potassium salt is applied to increase frost resistance and enhance the setting of flower buds.
Autumn
In September, once every four years, the main fertilizer is applied in doses (per instance):
- shrubs - superphosphate 60g, potassium salt 30g, manure 5kg;
- trees up to 5 years old - superphosphate 120g, potassium salt 60g, manure 10kg;
- trees 5-10 years old - superphosphate 240g, potassium salt 120g, manure 20kg;
- trees 10-15 years old - superphosphate 480g, potash salt 240g, manure 40kg;
- trees over 15 years old - superphosphate 1000g, potash salt 480g, manure 80kg;
On fertile soils, the dose should be reduced by 1.5-2 times.
After even distribution of fertilizers over the soil surface, they are embedded to a depth of 14-18 cm.
When leaf fall occurs, especially if your site suffers from any pests and diseases, it is better to rake the falling leaves and destroy, since it serves as an excellent wintering place for insects and phytopathogen spores.
In thermophilic crops, the trunks are mulched. After leaf fall, they are sheltered for the winter (using boxes, frames, covering materials).
The tree trunks are tied from damage by rodents with spruce branches, tar paper, roofing material, fiberglass, metal mesh, and other material to a height of at least 70-80 cm - not lower than the snow cover. Any shelter is covered with earth so that the mice cannot get close from below.
Winter
In winter, it is necessary to periodically shake off snow from plantations, especially hedges. Otherwise, the piles of snow will cause branches to break, there will be clearances in the hedge, and the crowns of trees will become asymmetrical and you will have to start their formation anew.
Vines, with the exception of climbing roses, are less whimsical to care for. Roses and clematis need a garter to support, the rest of the climbing plants do an excellent job on their own. The main thing is to limit their growth in the space allocated for them.
