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» Do-it-yourself electrics in the house: diagrams. DIY electrics in apartments and houses

Do-it-yourself electrics in the house: diagrams. DIY electrics in apartments and houses

Planning electrical wiring in an apartment at the renovation stage is a very important point and must be treated with a great deal of responsibility. Installing sockets in an apartment - as part of the electrical wiring - is the most capricious and controversial part. Let's look into the intricacies.

Which wiring to use

Almost all household appliances in the apartment are designed for power up to 5 amperes, and on the sockets it is written that they can withstand 16A. In fact, most quality outlets will handle much more current, but that's not the point. Wiring and circuit breakers for sockets should be selected according to the following principles:

  • Cable cross-section 2.5 mm;
  • Automatic (switch) - 16 amperes.

Helpful advice: don't try to save money on wiring. Do not use aluminum wires. This is bad form in modern renovations. Aluminum conducts electricity worse, heats up more, is fragile and obsolete.

Where to place

Location of sockets and switches

We wrote about how to arrange sockets in the kitchen and bathroom in separate articles; here we will talk about residential, and not only, premises. Here, too, it is important to follow some principles:

  1. Sockets are located at a height of 10-20 cm from the floor
  2. When planning sockets, avoid using them, especially in one glass. We have already written about the disadvantages of these devices;
  3. Position outlets so that they are easily accessible;
  4. The rosette in the window slope is placed at a height of at least 30 cm from the window sill so that you can safely use it next to the flower pot
  5. Do not install sockets in cabinets and shelves! This is unsafe and very impractical. Furniture lasts 5-10 years, wiring should last 50!

Number of sockets per apartment

Let's calculate together the required number of sockets for your apartment.

  1. Socket for a vacuum cleaner - it should be near every door to the room
  2. Hallway
    • WIFI router;
    • telephone set;
    • signaling;
    • call;
    • +2 for other needs (charging phone, tablet, etc.)
  3. Toilet - even if now you have no idea what the electricity is there for, still install one outlet. Suddenly you want a TV or an electric air purifier, humidifier, dehumidifier, etc. there. In general, one socket in the toilet will not hurt
  4. Bathroom. In more detail we. It all depends on the equipment that will be installed:
    • Boiler;
    • Washing machine;
    • Warm floor;
    • Heated towel rail;
    • Air Dryer;
    • Jacuzzi.

    All this equipment must be powered by something, some of it (boiler, heated floors) are constantly connected, so devices such as:

    • Electric shaver;
    • Depilatory;
    • Whirlpool bath;
    • Curling iron...

    Will require additional outlets

    In general, a bathroom cannot have less than 3 sockets

  5. Bedroom. Each sleeping place must be equipped with:
    • Lamp;
    • Socket for charging your phone;
    • Socket for connecting a tablet or laptop;
    • Reserve.
  6. Workplace. You can’t do without a computer here, which means there should be a lot of sockets:
    • System unit;
    • Monitor;
    • Active speakers;
    • A printer;
    • Scanner;
    • Router;
    • Phone charger;
    • Charging for tablet;
    • Desk lamp;
    • +2 additional sockets;

    Believe me, this amount will not be excessive. It’s better to do everything carefully at the planning stage than to later add surge protectors to the missing electrical points

  7. Multimedia. Different people place televisions and audio systems in different rooms and there may be several of them, so it is better to decide in advance where you want to see the multimedia systems and place sockets there for:
    • TV;
    • Player;
    • Amplifier;
    • Columns;
    • Additional router

    In one block with 220-volt power sockets, an antenna, network sockets, and sockets for audio systems are usually installed

  8. Kitchen. Perhaps the most “outlet” room. There can be from 10 to 30 sockets, depending on the size and technical equipment. We described this in more detail in the article.
  9. Loggia, balcony. If they are glazed, then you should definitely install at least one socket there; if there is no glazing and there are no plans, it is advisable to install them.

How to connect to the shield

A few principles that will keep you from getting confused

  1. All sockets in one room are connected to a panel under one circuit breaker, rated 16 amperes;
  2. Air conditioning and lighting are not covered by this switch.
  3. There are separate sockets with separate 25 amp circuit breakers for the water heater, hob, and electric oven. These are not public outlets!
  4. For sockets in the bathroom, you should install them so that you do not get an electric shock during a flood from your neighbors above;
  5. Sockets and switches on the loggia and balcony can be combined under one machine (separate loggia, separate balcony). All other sockets should be separate from the lighting so that your light does not turn off if there is a short circuit in the socket

What types to use

When planning electrics in an apartment, you should use the following principles:

Which companies to buy

Only European and American manufacturers of electrical installation devices are trusted. To avoid making your wiring more expensive, do not choose sockets from Chinese companies such as Makel, Viko, Lezard, as well as all Russian manufacturers. In fact, they are only assembled in the Russian Federation, and all components (of the lowest quality) are supplied from China.

  1. The method of fastening the wire is screwless, i.e. the wire should simply be inserted there;
  2. The socket body and mechanism do not burn or do not support combustion. More details in the article about;
  3. The socket contacts are made of copper, bronze or brass - checked with a magnet.
  4. The socket mechanism reliably holds both the Euro plug (with thick contact pins) and the thin one from charging.

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More than ever before, people today need electricity, which is needed for almost everything - from charging the phone to heating water. To ensure that your usual lifestyle is not disrupted, high-quality installation of wiring in the house is necessary. To implement it, the experience and practical rules accumulated by specialists will be useful.

Electricity is a source of comfort

Safety Basics - Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Ignorance or inattention to details can lead to installation errors. With further operation, such wiring in the house will cause problems, damage to property, and sometimes a fire. There are simple rules that allow the master to act not at random, but according to safety rules:

  • In a new building, before laying the wiring, a location for the distribution board is selected. It is installed close to the entrance, in a frost-free room. When drawing up a switchboard diagram, it is wise to immediately think about the RCD (residual current device), ground loop and other protective devices.

Wall-mounted switchboard

  • All work on replacing electrical wiring (in an old home) must be carried out with the power supply turned off at the electrical panel. It is required to leave a warning sign on it to avoid an unpleasant surprise.
  • Wiring in the house is preceded by drawing up a detailed network plan and connecting electrical appliances.
  • Even if all circuit breakers are turned off, before starting work, check the presence or absence of voltage on the contacts or conductive surfaces with an indicator screwdriver.

A warning sign must be hung on the introductory machine

The most common mistakes:

  • Use of aluminum wires. According to the requirements of the PUE (rules for installing electrical equipment), in residential buildings it is allowed to use aluminum wires with a cross-section of at least 16 mm². Wires of this diameter are typically only used in cables that carry current to, but not inside, the home. When replacing wiring, a combination of copper and aluminum parts is unacceptable - at the point of their connection, the contact will burn out over time due to transition resistance.
  • Insufficient waterproofing. For long and safe operation of the system, care must be taken to carefully insulate all wires in rooms with high humidity. Poor insulation most often shows up in the bathroom, pantry, kitchen or terrace.
  • Stroba. The optimal depth is 2-2.5 cm. Grooves with a shallower depth are difficult to plaster.

Chasing a wall for wiring

  • Working with cable. Diagonal laying is prohibited; The wire cross-section must be calculated in accordance with the system parameters.
  • Distribution boxes. To avoid confusion and ease of maintenance, they are placed under the ceiling.

An example of drawing up an electrical wiring diagram in a private house

The future electrical wiring diagram is drawn up based on the plan of a private house. It consists of two parts, electrical and installation. The main elements are outlined schematically, “for yourself.”

  • Electrical diagram. The electrical wiring diagram in a private house shows how energy consumers are included in the circuit and their number.

An example of an electrical wiring diagram in a country house

  • Wiring diagram. Determines the installation locations of devices. This data will help you calculate the number of cables and additional consumables needed.

Installation version of the wiring diagram

The main elements of the network include wires, sockets, switches, meters, fuses and relays, distribution boxes, in addition:

  • external power cable entry point;
  • connection points for high power household appliances;
  • ceiling and wall lighting fixtures.

The beginning of the electrical supply to a home is the electrical panel. A power wire is supplied to it from the outside (usually via an overhead line), supplying single-phase or three-phase current.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer electrical work services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Video description

An example of drawing up a plan for the location of electrical equipment in the video:

To increase reliability, consumers are divided into groups on the switchboard (connection in groups of points):

  • Lighting.
  • Sockets.
  • Power elements (boiler, electric stove, washing machine).
  • Household groups (basement, garage).
It is allowed to divide consumers by rooms or floors. In this case, each group needs individual protection devices (automatic devices, RCDs).

Each room has a lighting and socket group; there are more of them in the kitchen (warm floors and an electric stove are connected as a separate group). For powerful household appliances and lamp circuit units in the bathroom, grounding is provided (connection via a cable with an additional ground conductor).

Preparatory work for electrical wiring

To ensure that wiring in a country house does not cause problems during operation, preparatory work and calculations are carried out. These include calculation of the total power of devices planned for installation; Based on these numbers, the cable is selected.

Power of some household appliances

Calculation of power consumption

The total power consumption consists of the individual powers of household appliances, lighting elements and power equipment. These values ​​are taken from special tables; they can be found in the technical data sheets of the devices.

To independently obtain the total power consumption of the devices, you need to sum up the powers of all consumers on this wire. It is known that all devices do not turn on at the same time. Therefore, the resulting amount is multiplied by the demand adjustment factor (simultaneous use factor). The coefficient is 0.8 (if the total power is less than or equal to 14 kW), 0.6 (up to 20 kW), 0.5 (up to 50 kW).

Example: if the resulting number is 32.8 kW, then the approximate value of power consumption is: 32.8 * 0.6 = 19.68 kW.

By dividing the total power by the voltage (220 V), you can find out the maximum current. For example, if the power turns out to be 5 kW (5000 W), the current is 22.7 A.

Video description

A clear example of calculations in the video:

Selection of cable cross-section by length and power

The cable cross-section is selected based on the previously determined maximum load current and conductor parameter (current density for this material). With a current of 22.7 A and a conductor density of 9 A/mm2 (copper), a conductor with a cross section (CSA) of 22.7/9 = 2.5 mm2 would be suitable.

Copper is considered the best material because of its properties: wear resistance, high thermal and electrical conductivity (even during oxidation), ductility. Copper wire lends itself well to twisting and can withstand a load twice as large as aluminum wire of the same cross-section.

Calculation of cross-section based on load (kitchen)

The optimal cross-section for a socket group is considered to be 2-2.5 mm2, for connecting lighting devices 1.3-1.5 mm2 will be sufficient, for powerful electrical appliances it is better to be on the safe side - at least 4 mm2.

The cable length is calculated by taking measurements of all straight sections with an allowance of 10-15 cm added on each side. The approximate cable length can be obtained by multiplying the area of ​​the premises by two.

Sequence of installation work

Installation work requires an integrated approach. They start after purchasing the cable. Additionally, electrical accessories are purchased: sockets, socket boxes, switches, cable ducts and distribution boxes.

All materials must be prepared in advance

Installing a ground loop

Any private house must be equipped with a grounding loop, which performs several tasks:

  • Protects the inhabitants of the house when voltage appears on the device body.
  • Supports the safe operation of appliances operating in a damp environment (washing machines and dishwashers, electric stoves, boilers and instantaneous water heaters).
  • Reduces the level of noise (interference) in the electrical network.

The circuit is installed in the ground next to the house; Inside, the grounding is connected to the electrical panel. It is required for:

  • high power electrical engineering;
  • light sources (circuit groups) in bathrooms.

Installation of distribution board

Installation of distribution board elements

After the electrical connection diagram for a private home has been selected and consumers have been divided into groups, a distribution board is installed. It contains:

  • circuit breaker and RCD – general;
  • automatic machines and RCDs – for designated groups;
  • counter;
  • zero bus and main ground bus.

On a panel, the function of a core can be determined by the color of its insulation:

  • white (sometimes red, black or brown) corresponds to phase;
  • blue – zero;
  • yellow-green – protective grounding.

The final distribution board for electrical wiring in a private house is assembled after the installation of the wiring is completed.

Applicable wire colors

Installation of electrical wiring of closed and open type

Wiring in a new house is installed in two ways - open and closed, and the first option is often chosen when it is impossible to use the second.

  • Open wiring. It is laid over the walls and, if desired, protected by cable ducts. It has its advantages - it is always available for inspection. At the same time, like any technical element in the interior, it “hurts the eye.” The exception is the design of premises in a loft or retro style, where such solutions are welcome.

In open installation, the cable is fastened with staples to the surface, then it is covered with a box. Recesses for sockets and switches are made with a hammer drill or drill.

Box (cable channel) for open wiring

  • Hidden wiring. With hidden installation, you have to groove the walls (punch through channels), lay wires and hide them behind the wall trim. This method is more reliable and durable, but at the same time labor-intensive and costly for future alterations. To avoid touching cables in the future when drilling into walls, it is worth stocking up on a network layout plan.
Electrical wiring in the house is done according to the same rule: installation is carried out strictly horizontally or vertically, any other path is not allowed. Bends are made at right angles.

Before installation, walls, horizontal and vertical sections are marked in accordance with the diagram. This can be done using a laser level or a plumb line greased with chalk or charcoal. You can take pictures of walls with markings applied. This reminder will help you avoid touching the wiring with a drill or nail in the future.

You need to sketch out the layout of the wires inside the walls

During hidden installation, grooves (grooves in the surface of the wall) are punched with a chisel or grinder or a special wall cutter. The wires are laid in grooves, they are secured and masked with plaster or alabaster. Sometimes hidden wiring is carried out not in a groove, but under the baseboard, which preserves access and the possibility of inspection.

Wiring in a wooden house

The organization of wiring in such a home has its own characteristics. Internal wiring with wires buried in walls increases the risk of fire for wooden structures. Therefore, the safest option is the open option.

Electrical wiring in a wooden house

It is preferable to use a flat cable; To prevent sagging, it is fixed with fasteners made of tin or plastic.

When the network is assembled and all elements are connected, serviceability is checked.

Video description

About errors in installing wiring in a wooden house, watch the video:

Completion time and approximate cost of some work

Turnkey electrical installation in a cottage is completed on average in 4-6 days. Complex installation will cost 18-60 thousand rubles, replacement of wiring - 15-36 thousand rubles.

Electricians will carry out wiring on the floor of a private house for 9-12 thousand rubles.

A comprehensive replacement of wiring in a wooden house will cost 18-29 thousand rubles.

Laying a cable with a cross-section of up to 4 mm in a groove - 25-30 rubles. for m/p.

Laying a cable with a cross-section of more than 4 mm in a groove - 42-55 rubles. m/n.

Grilling gypsum walls – 75-85 rubles. for m/p, brick - 92-100 rubles. for m/p, concrete – 105-112 rubles. for m/p.

Assembling an electrical panel (meter + 3 machines) – 980-1100 rubles.

Connecting an electric meter with installation (220 volts) – 665-720 rubles.

Connecting an electric meter (380 volts) – 1050-1130 rubles.

Loft style interior with exposed ceiling wiring

General rules for connecting to the electrical network

Following the installation of electrical wiring, automatic devices, RCDs and electrical appliances are installed. To commission the electrical equipment of a private house, a specialist from the energy supervision authority is invited, authorized to conduct acceptance tests.

After checking the safety of the electrical installation, a “Connection Certificate” is issued, allowing further use of the equipment. Based on this document, the energy supply organization enters into an agreement with the owner of the house and connects the home to the support.

Video description

The video shows how to connect electrical wiring:

Conclusion

The life of a modern person is so dependent on electricity that even an hour without electricity seems endless to most. Things stop, the rhythm gets lost, plans remain unrealized. Defective installation can lead to more than just short-term system failures.

Electrical faults (caused by violation of the rules for the design and operation of electrical equipment and household electrical appliances), according to the Russian Ministry of Emergency Situations, caused 41,374 house fires in 2017. To protect your home and your loved ones, you should take care of many things in advance, but you should start with high-quality electrical wiring.

In the article we will talk about how to do electrical work in the house with your own hands; wiring diagrams will also be considered. If a couple of decades ago the load on the electrical networks of cities and even villages was insignificant, today the picture is the opposite. There are a lot of high-power household appliances - washing machines, multicookers, split systems, etc.

The load on electrical networks has increased many times. And while the city has some reserve, the wiring of a private house does not have this, therefore, an increase in load leads to the fact that the wires cannot withstand and begin to collapse. Consequently, the question arises that the electrics in the apartment and house should not only be repaired with their own hands, but also completely changed.

Previously, wiring in houses was done according to the simplest scheme - a switch and socket for each room, but in modern conditions this turns out to be too little - you want to turn on three chargers, a laptop, a TV, and so on. To do the wiring in your house yourself, you need to know certain rules and standards that should be followed during installation. You will also learn how to make a wiring diagram, how to wire it correctly with your own hands, and the requirements for it.

Regulations

Building materials and all activities of builders are regulated by certain rules and requirements, they are called GOST and SNiP. The Electrical Installation Rules (hereinafter PUE) also apply to electrical wiring in houses and buildings. It is this regulatory document that prescribes all the requirements for electrical equipment, thoroughly indicating what to do with it and how. All electrics in the apartment and house are connected to voltage with your own hands only after all checks for short circuits have been carried out.

Requirements for electrical wiring in private houses and apartments

If you decide to make the electrical wiring in your home yourself, you need to carefully study all the requirements for it. But the main attention should be paid to the following points:

  1. The main components of electrical wiring (distribution boxes, switches, sockets, meters) must be made easily accessible. It is quite easy to install wiring in the house with your own hands. Electrics, however, are demanding from a safety point of view. But all the rules can be easily followed.
  2. According to the PUE, switches must be installed at a level of 0.6-1.5 meters from the floor surface. Moreover, you need to pay attention to the fact that when opening the doors they should not create an obstacle. For example, if the door opens to the right, then the switch should be located on the left. And if the door opens to the left, then the switch is mounted on the right. The cable must be routed to the switch from above.
  3. Sockets are mounted at a level of 0.5-0.8 meters from the floor surface. The fact is that it needs to be located at this level for safety reasons when the house is flooded. Moreover, a distance of at least 0.5 m must be maintained from a gas or electric stove, heating radiators, pipes (and other objects that are grounded). The wires go to all sockets from bottom to top. This is exactly how you do it yourself. Wiring diagrams are given in the article.
  4. For every 6 sq. m. area of ​​the room there should be one socket. The exception is the kitchen, in which as many sockets are installed as necessary (based on the number of household appliances located in it). It is prohibited to install sockets in the toilet, but in the bathroom it is allowed only if there is isolation through a transformer (220 Volts are supplied to the primary winding, and the same amount is removed from the secondary winding). The transformer is installed outside the bathroom.
  5. Before starting work, you need to make a wiring plan and clearly indicate its location in the walls. Please note that all wires must be located either horizontally or vertically - but not diagonally or in a broken line. This is not how you should do the wiring in your house yourself. The connection diagram of all devices must take this feature into account.
  6. There must be a certain distance from ceilings, pipes and other obstacles. For example, you need to maintain a distance of 5-10 cm from the beams, and the same from the cornices. You need to maintain approximately 15 cm from the ceiling, 15-20 cm from the floor. If we are talking about vertical surfaces, then there should be at least 10 cm from door and window openings. But between the gas pipe and the wiring you need to maintain a distance of more than 0.4 m.
  7. External or hidden wiring should not touch metal parts of any structures.
  8. If several wires run in parallel, the distance between them must be maintained in excess of three millimeters. An alternative option is to hide each wire in a protective box or corrugation. This is how you install electrical wiring in a house yourself. Schemes should be drawn up with this in mind.
  9. Wires should be connected and routed in special distribution boxes. All connection points must be carefully insulated, and one feature must be taken into account - it is forbidden to connect copper and aluminum wires. If you make wiring from copper wire, then make it all from it, there should not be any sections made of aluminum.
  10. Grounding (including zero wires) must be secured to all devices using bolted connections.

These are the requirements that all electricians ask for. You can create connection diagrams with your own hands only if you take into account all these rules and regulations.

House electrical wiring project

The first thing you need to do is create an electrical wiring project, this is where it all starts. You will use it as a starting point during installation. Of course, it will be much better if it is done for you by experienced technicians who have been involved in this business for many years. But if you have experience, go for it.

But keep in mind that your safety depends on how the project is made. You definitely need to know what conventions are used when drawing up diagrams and projects. It is worth noting that Russian standards are quite different from European or American ones, so you should not use foreign schemes in the conditions of our country. All electrical installations in the house are designed with your own hands (diagrams are given in the article) at the initial stage.

Draw a plan of a house or apartment, mark on it the places where sockets, switches, chandeliers, etc. will be installed. The number of electrical appliances was discussed a little below. At this stage, the main goal is to create a diagram on which all the installation locations of the devices will be indicated. The second part is to outline the places for laying wires around the apartment. Of course, you need to know where the household appliances will be placed.

Wiring

Then wire all the wires. And if creating a diagram with the location of consumers is a simple matter, it is worth going into more detail at this stage of work. Three types of connections and wiring can be used:

  1. Consistent.
  2. Parallel.
  3. Mixed.

The third one is considered the most attractive from the point of view of saving materials.

Do-it-yourself electrical work in the house (mixed type circuits) with the highest possible efficiency. To make your work easier, ungroup:

  1. Lighting of corridors, living quarters, kitchens.
  2. Bathroom and toilet (lighting).
  3. Sockets in living rooms, corridors.
  4. Sockets in the kitchen.
  5. Electric stove socket (if necessary).

Please note that this is the simplest option for grouping electricity consumers. The fewer groups, the less materials will be used. The above example is the simplest and most economical. You can make it more complicated: literally connect electrical wiring to every outlet, for example. You begin to understand a little about how to install electrical wiring in a private home with your own hands.

To simplify the installation of electrical wiring, it can be mounted under the floor (for sockets). In the case of overhead lighting, installation can be carried out in floor slabs. Ideal for the “lazy” method - there is no need to groove the walls and ceiling. Moreover, on the plan diagram this type of wiring should be marked with dotted lines.

Calculation of current consumption

It is imperative to take into account the current strength that will flow through the network. There is a simple formula for this: current strength is the ratio of the total power of all consumers to voltage (we can say that this is a constant, since the voltage standard in our country is 220 Volts). Let's say you have the following consumers:

  1. Electric kettle with a power of 2000 W.
  2. A dozen incandescent lamps, each 60 W (total 600 W).
  3. Microwave oven with a power of 1000 W.
  4. Refrigerator with a power of 400 W.

The network voltage is 220 V, the total power is 2000+600+1000+400, that is, 4000 W. Dividing this value by the network voltage, we get 16.5 A. But if you look at practical data, in apartments and houses the maximum current consumption rarely reaches 25 Amperes.

Based on this parameter, it is necessary to select all materials for installation. In particular, it depends on the current strength. Please note that you should always take a margin of 25%. In other words, if you have calculated a current consumption of 16 A, you cannot install a fuse with the same trip current value. You need to choose a standard value greater than the calculated one.

Wire brands for home use

Now let's talk about how the electrical system is installed in the house. The cable (the PUE rules regulate all its parameters) must be selected based on the current characteristics. It is advisable that the wiring in a house or apartment be made of the following materials:

  1. Wire brand VVG-5X6. This wire consists of five cores, each with a cross-section of 6 square meters. mm. It is widely used for houses that have a three-phase network to connect the lighting panel to the main one.
  2. VVG-2X6 has two cores with a cross section of 6 square meters. mm. Widely used for single-phase power houses to connect the lighting panel and the main one.
  3. The VVG-3X2.5 wire has three cores, each with a cross-section of 2.5 square meters. mm. Used to connect lighting boards with distribution boxes. Also from boxes to sockets.
  4. Brand VVG-3X1.5 has three cores, each with a cross-section of 1.5 square meters. mm. Used for connecting switches and lighting lamps.
  5. Brand three-core, cross-section of each core 4 sq. mm. Used to connect electric stoves.

Material Quantity Calculations

Now you consider what components (including small ones) the electrical wiring in the house consists of. Do-it-yourself project, wiring, installation, is done quite quickly. True, you will have to try hard to count the amount of wire as accurately as possible. To do this, according to the plan, walk around the apartment with a tape measure. After taking measurements, add four meters on top - there will be no extra margin.

At the entrance to the house all the wires from the house go to it. It installs automatic switches. Please note that the machines must have a maximum operating current of 16 or 20 Amps. must be connected via a separate circuit breaker. With a power of up to 7 kW, a 32 A automatic machine is used, with a higher power - 63 A.

Then you count the number of distribution boxes and sockets, there is nothing complicated in this matter, this is done according to the diagram drawn up earlier. In the future, you will need various “little things”, for example, insulating tape, lugs, tubes, cable ducts, boxes, thermal insulation, and others. Now it’s worth talking about what tools are used to install wiring in a house with your own hands. The scheme is discussed in some detail.

Tools for work

When carrying out, always adhere to safety regulations. In order not to get confused, it is better to do it yourself, but if you have a partner, then the help should be minimal - give it, bring it, don’t interfere. You will need the following tool:

  1. Multimeter.
  2. Hammer.
  3. Bulgarian.
  4. Screwdriver.
  5. Pliers.
  6. Wire cutters.
  7. Curly and flat screwdrivers.
  8. Level.

If you are renovating an old apartment and at the same time changing the wiring, you need to pull out all the cables so that they do not interfere. For this work, a special electrical wiring detection sensor is useful.

Marking the location of wires

Place marks on the wall where you will route the wires. Pay attention to whether the position of the wires complies with the rules. After you have marked the places where the electrical cables will pass, you can mark out the sockets, boxes, panels and switches. Please note that in new apartments there is a niche for installing the shield. And in old houses, the panels are simply attached to the wall.

Wall scoring

First of all, install a special attachment on the hammer drill and drill holes for installing distribution boxes, switches and sockets. To lay wires, it is necessary to make grooves in the walls - grooves. They are made using a grinder or a hammer drill. Whatever method you choose, there will be enough dirt and dust. The groove should have a depth of 2 cm. As for the width, it should be enough to lay all the wires. As you understand, wiring electrical wiring yourself is not a difficult task; from a physical point of view, it is more difficult to do the installation.

A separate story with the ceiling. If you plan to make it hanging, then simply install all the wires on the ceiling. This is the easiest way. It’s a little more difficult to make a shallow groove. And one more thing - hide it in the ceiling. For example, in panel houses, floors are used in which there are internal voids. Therefore, two holes are enough to route the wires. And the last thing is to punch holes in the corners of the rooms to bring the wires to the central panel. Then you proceed to closed (you will have to groove the walls) or open methods.

Conclusion

The most important thing in installing electrical wiring in houses and apartments is to adhere to all norms and rules in accordance with GOST, SNiP, PUE. This way you can not only achieve maximum efficiency from electrical wiring, but also reliability, durability, and most importantly, safety. And try to use only high-quality materials during installation. For example, it is advisable to use copper wires - they have a much longer service life (better conductivity, heat less).

Recently, capital and dacha construction has become very popular. Many homeowners prefer to create their dream home themselves, without resorting to the services of companies.

Without electricity, the life of a modern person is unthinkable. Therefore, power supply to the home is the homeowner’s first priority.

People who decide to build a house with their own hands are faced with the need to electrify it. It also happens that in existing housing the electrical wiring is in very poor condition and needs to be replaced.

We will consider all the nuances of connecting your home to the electrical network, installing different types of electrical wiring, and study in detail common mistakes in order to avoid them in practice. The article will also contain instructions for commissioning wiring and recommendations on popular issues.

Regardless of whether you want to connect a new house to the network, or restore power supply in an old one (for example, when completely changing the wiring), you will have to undergo a lot of bureaucratic procedures. To obtain a permit you need:

Drawing up a wiring diagram

The best way to start installing wiring in a private house with your own hands is with basic electrical wiring. This will greatly facilitate further calculations of consumables and determination of installation locations for power elements.

The wiring diagram must include the following elements:

  • Supply from the nearest support to the incoming electrical panel
  • Introductory /
  • Internal electrical panel with consumer groups:
    • Rosette group
    • Lighting
    • Power group (high-current household appliances (boiler, washing machine, machine tools)
    • Outbuilding (garage, basement)

A diagram of how to properly conduct and make electrical wiring in a private house with your own hands:

Separate RCDs/automatic circuit breakers are installed for each of these groups.

Also, when drawing up a diagram, you need to have a general plan of the house, on which to mark the direction of laying the cables and the installation locations of sockets and switches.

It would be good if the wiring had two separate circuits. Then it will be possible to turn off one for repairs, and from the second to power the necessary lighting or soldering equipment.

Based on these data, a schematic diagram is constructed, the total cable length required in each case, the placement of power elements, metering devices, and the point of entry of power cables are calculated.

What you need

Let's try to figure out how to make and install electrical wiring in a private house yourself. In order to install high-quality electrical wiring in your house that complies with all SNIPs and safety standards, you will need the following materials and tools.

Consumables

Required Tools

  • (grinder with diamond discs)
  • Assembly chisel
  • Hammer
  • Cable scissors
  • Putty knife
  • Emery grater
  • Pliers
  • Roulette
  • Screwdriver

Selected based on the total load. On average, this is 0.5-0.9 square millimeters per 1 kW of power. It is best to use copper stranded wire. He is better twistable, elastic, stable to short-term loads.

The number of sockets, switches and other elements is calculated when drawing up a circuit diagram. It is better to take boxes and boxes from self-extinguishing or non-combustible materials.

Hidden wiring is best done under the baseboard, and not in the groove. This position of the cable prevents it from being hit by a drill or nail during repair work; it is accessible and can be checked or reconnected.

Video on how to properly make and conduct electrical wiring in a private house with your own hands:

Step-by-step installation instructions

Different homes recommend different types of wiring. In wooden buildings it is most often done, and in concrete buildings with many technological voids it is done hidden. Let's consider the nuances of installing and conducting electrical wiring in a private house with your own hands.

Open (external)

Often used in country wooden houses. It can be made both in special boxes, under baseboards, and in, from a special cable and on porcelain insulators-mounts that fix vertical elements.

To conduct open electrical wiring in the house, you need:

Closed

Installation is a little more difficult. To hide cables in walls, you need:

  • Mark the walls using a marking line
  • Using a grinder, cut 2x2 cm grooves in the walls
  • Use a wall chaser to cut out spaces for installing distribution boxes, switches and sockets
  • Install boxes and socket boxes. Secure them with asbestos or screws and dowels
  • Prime the grooves
  • Place the cable in them. It must first be cut into pieces of the required length.
  • Secure it in the groove with plaster. Mounting pitch – about 40 cm
  • After 20-25 hours, when the plaster is completely dry, clean it
  • Install switches and sockets

That's all the simple steps required to electrify your home yourself.

Step-by-step video instructions on how to do electrical wiring in a private house with your own hands:

Installation of accessories

In the now fashionable open-type retro wiring, the fittings can be very diverse. In addition to switches and sockets, porcelain insulating rollers are used there. Each piece of fittings should be fastened at the following distance:

  • Insulating rollers: 10-12 centimeters apart
  • Single-core twisted wire - 1 centimeter from the wall
  • Sockets: no lower than 35-40 centimeters from the floor and no lower than 15 cm from the kitchen table
  • Switches - from 50 to 150 centimeters from the floor
Switches and sockets must not be installed at the same level. This rule also applies to hidden electrical wiring.

Safety rules, mistakes and ways to avoid them

Sometimes homeowners neglect certain nuances or make careless mistakes that can seriously affect fire safety. We will look at the most common of these mistakes and ways to avoid them.

  • Aluminum wires. They must not be used under any circumstances. They are fragile and can break off when replacing an outlet or switch. It's better to pay more, but take copper ones.
  • It is prohibited to use stranded wires in hidden wiring.. The terminal does not hold such a cable very well, so a constant heating point is created. This can lead to both damage to the socket/switch and a fire.
  • Do not connect wires of different metals directly to each other.. To avoid oxides, do this only through the terminal to eliminate possible metal-to-metal contact.
  • Waterproofing. It should not be neglected in rooms with high humidity: bathrooms, kitchens, pantries, terraces. Failure to do so may result in electric shock.
  • Mark the wire length with maximum accuracy. Placing twists on straight sections, especially if 10-15 centimeters are missing, is strictly prohibited!
  • Strobe under the groove. Its depth should be 2-2.5 centimeters. There is no point in running the cable deeper, and a shallower groove is difficult to plaster.
  • . They should be located almost under the ceiling. This is done for ease of wiring maintenance and to avoid confusion between cables for various purposes.
  • Wire cuts. They must be strictly vertical or horizontal. Possible cable savings when laying diagonally can lead to a drill or nail getting into it during repair or finishing work in the house.
  • Wire size. It shouldn't be too thin. Thin wires cannot withstand the increased load and burn out. The optimal cross-section for the socket group is 2-2.5 mm, for the lighting group – 1.3-1.5 mm.

And a little about safety precautions. Work with home electrics only when the plugs are off. Electric shock can lead to the most tragic consequences.

Testing and commissioning

After complete installation of electrical wiring, you need install all planned machines, RCDs and electrical appliances. After this, feel free to invite a specialist from the energy supervision department to check and commission the electrical equipment of your home.

Acceptance testing of your facility must result in the issuance of a positive conclusion on the safety of the electrical installation carried out, the possibility of further use of the equipment. You must contact the energy supply organization with the “Connection Permit Certificate”. On this basis, she must connect your facility to the support and draw up a contract for the provision of services.

You should not skimp on consumables and tools - after all, in the future, quality work done will be the key to your peace of mind and comfort.

Do the electrical wiring in the house yourself - It’s not a difficult task, but it requires care and scrupulousness.. If you approach this matter responsibly, the wiring will serve you for many years and is guaranteed to be safe.

In a modern apartment, the kitchen is one of the main consumers of electricity. The power of current collectors connected to the electrical wiring in the kitchen can sometimes reach more than half of the entire load of the apartment.

Based on this, electrical wiring in the kitchen should be carried out by an independent group, or even better, by several groups.

Power of electrical appliances in the kitchen

Before work, you will have to draw up a small project or diagram. To do this, the power of all electrical appliances that will be in the kitchen is initially calculated.

Here is an approximate list of them:

  • lighting – 150-200 Watt
  • Microwave – 2000 Watt
  • Refrigerator – 100 Watt
  • Dishwasher – 1000-2000 Watt
  • Electric kettle – 2000 Watt
  • Oven – 2000 Watt
  • Water heater – 2000 Watt
  • Hob - 3500-7500 Watt

Of course, all devices will not turn on at the same time. But you must calculate the total power. Most often it is in the range of 10-15 watts.

The maximum power, when several pantographs are switched on simultaneously, in an ordinary apartment, as a rule, does not exceed 7 kW.

If your power is higher than 7 kW, then you need to think about inputting 380V and distributing the load across phases.

Which cable to choose for the kitchen

Next, you need to calculate the cross-section of the common supply wire of the electrical panel and the outgoing wiring to each pantograph. Follow the rules here:

  • for device loads up to 3.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*2.5mm2
  • for device loads up to 5.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*4mm2
  • with a total load of all devices up to 10 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*6mm2
  • with a total load of all devices up to 15 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*10mm2

Why there should be a brand VVGnG-Ls is discussed in detail in the article below:

Even if you have a house with an old grounding system (without a third protective conductor), still do the wiring with a 3-core cable. This will save you in the future from additional costs for reconstruction and replacement of wires.

As a last resort, the third wire will be a backup for zero or phase, in case of a possible break or other damage.

Layout of sockets in the kitchen

After choosing the wiring, you need to decide on the sockets.

Always plan the placement of outlets after the kitchen design is approved, otherwise there may be problems. For example, work area sockets can easily end up in the wrong place and end up hidden behind the refrigerator.

To ensure that your sockets and switches are in their places, take a plan for arranging your kitchen furniture.

After that, mark all the necessary sockets on it. You can even do this by hand.

On this plan, there is still no need to clearly assign installation locations and calculate dimensions and distances. Just count the number and purpose of each outlet.

Number of sockets

How many minimum outlets are required in the kitchen?

The category of stationary appliances includes a refrigerator, range hood, hob and oven, microwave, dishwasher, garbage disposer.

In addition, it doesn’t hurt to mount one socket immediately under or near the switch at the entrance to the room.

The area with switches usually remains uncluttered, and a free point where you can take voltage (for example, for a vacuum cleaner) is never superfluous.

Now mark the points on the apron for connecting non-stationary devices. Place at least two pieces on each part (right and left) of the kitchen.

This will include an electric kettle, blender, mixer, etc.

Distances and locations

When you have decided on the quantity, it’s time to move on to calculating the required sizes and indentations. To do this, draw something like a scan of the walls where the furniture will stand.

Here you will need the exact dimensions of the kitchen - length, height of the room. Gradually, in the form of rectangles, you draw the equipment and all the cabinets.

If the kitchen is corner, do the same with the adjacent wall.

Fridge

For refrigerators, manufacturers recommend placing the socket group under the appliance itself, that is, in the bottom row, so that the connection is not visible.

It is impossible to say unambiguously with 100% certainty at what height the bottom row of sockets should be made.

This is explained by the fact that if you install it higher, the built-in equipment will rest against the forks.

If you intend to turn off the plug quite often, then the bottom connection for the refrigerator is not always convenient. In this case, you can place the whole thing at the height of the working area.

Sockets in the work area and above the tabletop

The height of the tabletop is usually 85cm, maximum 90cm. Then there is a partition with a height of 550-600mm and then cabinets.

Place sockets in this area 105cm from the floor.

In this case, they will not end up in the middle of the wall, and it will be convenient to cover them with the same microwave.

The minimum distance from the countertop should be at least 5cm so that the kitchen plinth does not touch them. Location - one set in any corner, plus between the hob and sink.

As mentioned above, at least two pieces. If you don't like the look of sockets above the kitchen splashback, consider the option of a pull-out unit from the countertop.

You definitely need to consider whether there will be built-in appliances in the upper cabinets. For example, a microwave.

You will also have to make a separate outlet for it. It is not feng shui to pull the cords from above to the tabletop area.

Hood

Also at the top, at a height of 1.9m-2.0m, there is an outlet for the hood. However, a lot can depend on the brand. If this is a cheap option, then you can get by with the cable outlet and then connect it directly inside the equipment.

But if this is an expensive model, then it comes with its own fork. And cutting off the factory plug will void the warranty.

Hob and oven

If you have a powerful hob, either a cable outlet is made, followed by connection directly under the panel contact blocks, or a special power socket is installed.

Ovens, unlike cooking ovens, come with regular forks, so there’s no need to be fancy here. Plug them into simple sockets.

When there are cabinets with hinged doors to the left or right of the cooker and oven, it is very convenient to place sockets directly inside them. Step back 15-20cm from the edge and mount it.

If this is not possible, then you will have to connect from the lower group.

If the oven is installed separately from the hob, for example at chest height, make a socket for it in the lower cabinet at a height of up to 750mm.

Dishwasher

According to SP 31-110 2003 clause 14.29, it is prohibited to install any sockets under or above sinks or sinks. Therefore, always back off a few centimeters when installing a socket group near this plumbing fixture. This applies to both the lower placement and the working area at the top.

It is also prohibited to place sockets behind the dishwasher and washing machine.

Near the dining table (if it is located near the wall and not in the center of the kitchen), it is advisable to plan one outlet.

On major holidays, when there is an influx of guests and relatives in the apartment, you will definitely need to connect something on the table - a mixer, a juicer, a food processor, etc.

And on simple days, you can easily attach a laptop there when working in the kitchen.

  • for a group of sockets into which devices up to 3.5 kW are connected, a 16A circuit breaker is installed
  • for devices up to 5.5 kW automatic 25A. Moreover, it is better to extend a separate group to this pantograph

You can also navigate using the following table for selecting machines and cables when connecting a hob:

  • since the kitchen is a wet room, plus a huge number of objects with a metal case, it is mandatory to install an incoming RCD with a current of 30 mA in the panel in front of all machines


  • A separate socket is installed for each pantograph


This is not only an additional load on the wiring, but also a potential short circuit (due to spilled tea or other liquid).

Common mistakes

1 Installation of wiring and sockets before approval and approval of the kitchen furniture design project.

The problems you will definitely encounter in this case are hidden sockets behind cabinets, refrigerators, etc. It is very likely that you will even have to use carriers, since the factory cords and plugs will simply not reach the connection points.

2 Connecting the refrigerator.

The instructions for refrigerators usually indicate a ban on connecting them through extension cords. At the same time, their cord length is not that long, only 1 m.

Therefore, if you know what brand of refrigerator you will have, find the passport on the Internet and look at which side the power cord comes out of it. Add in the width of the refrigerator and plan the connection point accordingly to eliminate the need for carrying.

And in some models, the freezer can be connected with a separate independent cord, or you will purchase an additional freezer in the future. Initially, you will make only one socket for the equipment, but in the end you will need two. So it is better to make this block double.

3 Connecting sockets to “wet” appliances through a simple automatic machine.

Appliances such as a dishwasher, washing machine (if it is built into the kitchen), instantaneous water heater, etc. must be connected via an RCD or differential circuit breaker.

No modular circuit breakers, or even more so “plugs,” will ever save you from current leaks.

Even if you do not have a grounding conductor, the RCD will still help and protect in this case.

4 The most common mistake is installing regular sockets (Schuko type) for the dishwasher under the sink or near the faucet.

This location is prohibited by the rules. Step back 500mm from the mixer (the same applies to gas pipes for stoves or hobs) and only then safely install the electrical installation product.

If the electricians have already installed the wiring there and there is no way to redo it, or you got an apartment with such renovations, then make sure that the sockets under the sink are waterproof (like in the bathroom).

It is also prohibited to install electrical installation products in the immediate vicinity of the stoves.

5 When installing the lower socket group at a distance of 10 cm from the floor, be extremely careful!

In an area up to 25 cm from the floor, plumbers usually install pipes for the sink, washing machine, and dishwasher.

Without knowing the exact route, do not rush to ditch the walls, otherwise it may result in a flood and unplanned repairs for you and your neighbors.

To summarize, I would like to say that electrical wiring in the kitchen should be done by professionals. Using the tips in this article, you can easily control the entire process and make your competent comments during installation work.