All photos from the article
How to correctly cut plywood to the dimensions specified in the drawing of a particular craft? How to cut slab lumber with maximum precision and accuracy, so that the edges of the cut do not chip?
These and similar questions have worried joiners and carpenters since the time when plywood in the modern sense of the word was first created. Since then and to this day, many methods have been developed for cutting, both with your own hands and using specialized electrical equipment.
In this article we will tell you how and using what tools plywood is cut. The listed methods can be used in the process of artistic sawing, during the manufacture of furniture, when cutting materials for cladding construction projects, etc.
Cutting plywood is a process that involves the material being processed and a cutting tool.
When choosing a tool and method of its use, it is necessary to take into account the following parameters of the material being processed:
Let's consider the listed points in more detail. If you have to cut a small piece of plywood, you can get by with a regular jigsaw. If the length and width of the sheet are large, the frame of a regular jigsaw will not be enough and you will have to use an electric analogue.
In accordance with the density of the structure and the hardness of the material, the cutting blade and the tool with which the cutting will be performed are selected. For example, if it is hard, it is not recommended to use set blades, since such a cutting tool will break the veneer and leave behind an edge with multiple chips.
Another point is the presence of knots, which can affect the quality of the cut. The presence of knots and similar defects is determined by the grade of plywood - the higher the grade, the fewer defects and the easier it is to saw.
The arrangement of the fibers can significantly complicate or, on the contrary, simplify the cutting of the slab. For example, it’s easy to cut along the fibers, since you don’t have to make any special efforts, while the cut turns out smooth and neat. Cutting plywood across the grain is more difficult, as it requires more effort and there is a high probability of chipping.
And finally, the configuration of the cut is a factor on which the choice of tool and cutting method largely depends.
If you are going to do artistic sawing, you will need a jigsaw, milling cutter or innovative laser cutting equipment. If you have to simply cut the material in a straight line, there are no special requirements for the tool, the main thing is that the cutting performance be high.
First of all, equipment for cutting plywood is classified according to its household and industrial type:
Currently, the following tool is suitable for cutting wood-laminated boards:
Let's take a closer look at each of the listed devices.
If you want to understand how to cut plywood without chipping, then a hand jigsaw is what you need. The file used in the tool has a minimal spread with a very small tooth size.
Important: A significant drawback of the tool is the limited size of the frame.
As a result, it can only be used for working with pieces of plywood no wider than the length of the frame.
The advantages of the tool include the following points:
Using plywood can save money and make furniture easier to make, but there are issues that need to be addressed with greater care. For example, the difficulty of sawing sheets into blanks without chipping, masking visible ends, etc. However, these problems can be solved, which will be discussed in the article.
It's best to start with the largest pieces and consider the grain direction of the outer layer. Drawing up a cutting diagram ( photo A) will not take much time (especially for large products), but it will help you get rid of the purchase of additional material. In addition, by looking at the diagram, you can understand which cuts should be made first.
When drawing the cutting diagram, put down the dimensions and make sure that the parts fit on the sheet. Also allow sufficient finishing allowance.
To prevent chipping on both faces of the plywood, score the bottom face with a disc raised approximately 1.5 mm. Then raise it to its full height and make a gash.
You can make any cuts on a table saw as long as the plywood is face up. In this case, the lower side tends to chip. If both sides must be free of chips, then first make a scoring pass ( photo B And rice. 1a).
Although the factory edge of a sheet of plywood is fairly straight, it needs to be filed using a straight edge to remove any possible defects. Therefore, when you first cut, give a small allowance, and then come back and saw off the factory rib ( rice. 1).
When working with a manual circular saw, the plywood should be laid face down. Place a full sheet of plywood on a sheet of foam (Fig. 2) - due to it, it is more convenient to handle plywood; the sawn piece does not fall and at the end of the cut does not tear out the face veneer.
There are times when it is necessary to use a stationary circular. To avoid chipping at the end of the cut, use the two-pass method. After feeding the part into the machine by 50-75 mm, expand the panel ( rice. 3) and make a full pass.
Depending on the size of the part, grooves are selected using a tabletop circular saw or a router with a guide ruler
Aligned slots. Clamp the two panels to the workbench. The faces on which the grooves are to be selected face each other. Use a router to select both grooves in one pass.
In this template, a series of grooves of increasing width are selected and each one is marked with which disk it was cut with. Now it is easy to set the groove disc according to the thickness of the plywood.
Gauge for selecting a disk for grooves for a table circular saw ( photo B) consists of two glued blocks of 20 mm plywood with a number of cut grooves of different widths.
Guides with double rulers. The groove on the plywood is selected using two guide rulers ( rice. 4). The exact distance between the guides is determined by cutting plywood ( rice. 4a), To rout a groove, move the router along one fence guide and then back along the other fence.
Typically, hardwood strips 6-20 mm wide are used for edging the ends. Make edging strips slightly thicker than plywood ( photo G), and after gluing, trim them flush.
To help hold the trim on the edge of the plywood, you can cut a mortise and tenon (top photo) or use a fiberboard dowel (bottom photo).
The more clamps are used to press the edging, the less chance there is for cracks to form. Ideally, clamps are installed in increments of 100-150 mm, but on large products, for example, cabinets, this is not always possible. In this case, use a wide clamping block ( rice. 5). The wider the block, the further the clamps can be spaced. In addition, the pressure block protects the front side of the edging.
When there are not enough clamps even when using wide blocks, there are several options for screeding. One of them is to modify the clamping block by making one edge slightly convex ( rice. 6) - the force is first applied in the middle between the clamps, and then distributed to the sides. Another way is to insert oppositely directed wedges between the pressure block and the edging ( rice. 7).
If there is a local gap, additional force can be applied using a C-clamp and wedge.
If the edging does not want to be pressed in a certain place, use a C-shaped clamp with spacers (so as not to damage the edging) and a wedge ( photo D).
Sometimes the problem is not the number of clamps, but that they are too short. In this case, press the support bar across the panel and attach the main clamps to it ( rice. 8).
Most tube and rack clamps apply force too high, causing the frame to twist out ( rice. 9a). Use a pressure block with rounded edges ( rice. 9) - this will redistribute the force so that it is applied in the middle of the edging.
Sometimes you have to attach the trim after assembling the case. It must exactly match the thickness of the plywood and be level. In this case, use guide blocks and packing tape to align and secure the edging ( rice. 10).
When planing or sanding flush edging, apply tape to the plywood to avoid damaging the veneer.
Trimming the edging. Trimming is performed with a stripping block ( photo E) or with a hand plane ( photo F). To avoid damaging the veneer, use a strip of adhesive tape.
Sometimes the edging is trimmed using a router with a flush cutter. The cutter bearing tracks the face of the plywood. A stable position of the router base on the edge of the plywood is necessary. To do this, press a 50x100 mm board flush with the top edge of the edging strip ( rice. eleven). On the board you need to select a fold ( rice. 11 a).
When processing identical panels, for example the side walls of a cabinet, press them together using a 50x100mm spacer ( rice. 12) to provide good support for the router. Move the router counterclockwise, and if there are grooves in the panel, temporarily seal them with inserts ( rice. 12a).
Device ( see fig. and photo) is a wide base to which a ruler is attached with glue and screws. To cut the base to size, a hand-held circular saw is run along one edge of the ruler, and a router along the other. (Note: A ø10mm straight bit was used for this guide.)
When the base is trimmed, a auxiliary ruler is obtained that will show exactly where the cut should be made. Simply press the ruler into place and align its edge with the marking line,
If you need to mill a groove wider than the diameter of the cutter used to cut plywood, you cannot simply replace the cutter - you will have to change the position of the auxiliary ruler. Instead, make a second identical guide straight edge and rout the groove in two passes ( rice. 4).
Assembling parts made from plywood is not much different from assemblies made from solid wood - you need to tighten the parts tightly across their entire width. But when you sandwich a row of shelves between two side walls, you can't pull most of the panels together in the middle.
To hold a large assembly of plywood in place when installing clamps, use a square block with grooves cut in the middle.
To tighten the assembly tightly, use 50x100 mm boards with a convex edge ( rice. 13) - the bend directs the clamping force first to the middle of the panel, and then, when tightening the clamps, distributes it to the sides.
Another problem arises when inserting slightly curved panels. The solution is to press the thick stiffener and straighten the curved panel during assembly ( rice. 13a). When the glue hardens, the panel will remain straight even after removing the stiffener.
Processing lumber, inserting hinges, making technological holes and recesses, wood carving - all this can be done by a device such as a router. Moreover, this can be done not only by professional equipment, but also by relatively inexpensive hand-made units. But working with a manual wood router requires knowledge of some techniques and rules. All this is in the article.
A router is a device for processing wood or metal. They process flat and shaped surfaces, and also form technological recesses - grooves, ridges, recesses for installing hinges, etc. According to the installation method, there are stationary machines (there are different types to perform different operations), and there are manual milling machines. Hand-held electric milling machines are a universal tool that allows you to carry out any operation. To change the operation, you just need to change the attachment - the cutter and/or its location on the part.
Machine tools are used mainly in mass production. In them, the cutter is installed motionless, and the workpiece moves along a certain trajectory. When working with a manual router, the situation is the opposite - the workpiece is fixed motionless and the router is moved. When processing large volumes of identical parts, it is more convenient to mount a hand router on a horizontal surface, making something similar to a milling machine.
Homemade milling machine - a horizontal plane with a hole in the middle, to which a manual router is attached from below
There are many different types of milling machines, but for the home craftsman or semi-professional use, universal ones are more suitable. They are equipped with various cutters and special devices, which allows you to perform any operation. They just require more time and skill to perform than on a specialized machine.
What can be done with a hand router:
Similar operations are used in carpentry, in the production and assembly of furniture. A hand router can even cut into a lock or hinges on a door. Moreover, it will do this much faster and more elegantly than similar operations performed using hand tools.
To understand the principles of working with a hand router, it is advisable to have at least a general understanding of its structure and the purpose of its parts.
A manual electric router consists of a housing in which a motor is hidden. A holder protrudes from the body into which the collets are inserted. Collets are small adapters that allow you to use cutters with shanks of different diameters. The cutter is inserted into the collet and tightened with a clamping bolt (on some models it is fixed with a button).
Another important part of a manual router is the platform, which is connected to the body using two rods. The platform is usually made of metal. There is a sliding plate on the underside of the platform. It is made of a smooth material that ensures smooth operation of the tool as it moves around the part.
Setting up the milling cutter operating parameters is done using:
There is also an on/off button on the case, and there may also be a lock button. Here, in brief, are all the nodes. In addition, there is also a parallel stop that is quite convenient to use. It can be simple or adjustable - you can move the cutting part slightly to the right or left.
The equipment leaves the factory lubricated, so in principle, no additional operations are required. But it is necessary to keep the equipment clean - you need to clean off dust more often and change the lubricant if necessary. Lubrication is needed for moving parts - guides. You can use liquid aerosol lubricants (preferably), but you can also use regular consistent ones like Litol. But, when using thick lubricants, you will have to remove them periodically, as chips and dust stick and it becomes difficult to work. When using light aerosol formulations there is practically no sticking.
To make the sole slide easily, you can lubricate it with silicone grease. This is especially useful when working with templates. Then the tool literally glides, moves smoothly and without jerking.
Working with a hand router on wood, composite, plywood, etc. begins with setting the basic parameters. First you need to set the rotation speed. It is selected depending on the selected cutter and the hardness of the material and the characteristics of the cutter, so you should look for exact recommendations in the operating instructions.
Next, the cutter is installed. Most branded cutters have marks that you can use to guide you. If they are not there, then the minimum requirement is to clamp at least 3/4 of the length of the shank (cylindrical part). Insert the cutter to the required depth (if necessary, after installing a collet - an adapter chuck for different cutter diameters), secure the shaft, and tighten it with an open-end wrench until it stops (but do not overtighten).
If the model is simple, two keys are needed. They do not have a shaft locking mechanism; you will need to hold it with a second key. Mid-class devices have a lock button. Holding it, use an open-end wrench to tighten the cutter. In expensive models, in addition to the lock, there is a ratchet that you can use to navigate.
Each model of a manual milling cutter has a certain reach - this is the maximum depth to which this unit is capable of processing material. The maximum depth of milling is not always required; then it needs to be adjusted. Even if you need to mill to a greater depth, so as not to overload the cutter and unit, you can divide it into several levels. There is a revolver stop for this. This is a small disk under a barbell with a number of stops of different heights - legs. The number of legs is from three to seven, and more does not mean better. It is much more convenient if it is possible to adjust the height of each leg. This shows the class of the equipment. To secure the turret stop in the desired position, there is a lock, usually made in the form of a flag.
Setting the milling depth on a manual router occurs in several stages:
Now, when installed on the workpiece and pressing on the upper part, the cutter will enter the part at the set distance.
Good milling cutters have a wheel for precise adjustment of the milling depth. It allows you to adjust the depth without changing the settings (there is no need to repeat the entire operation), albeit within small limits (in the photo above it is the green wheel).
Milling cutters are cutting tools that process and shape a surface. They consist of a cylindrical part, which is clamped by collets in the unit holder, and a cutting part. The cylindrical part can be of different diameters. Choose one that has a collet for which your device has. The shape and location of the knives of the cutting part determines the appearance that the wood receives after processing. Some cutters (for edges) have a stop roller. It specifies the distance from the cutting surface to the material being processed.
Working with a hand router on wood requires the presence of a certain number of cutters. This is a small part of what exists
Milling cutters are made from different metals and alloys. For processing soft wood - pine, spruce, etc. - use conventional nozzles (HSS), for hard woods - oak, beech and others - from hard alloys (HM).
Each cutter has a certain resource and maximum speed at which normal operation is ensured with minimal runout. You should not exceed the recommended speed - this may cause damage to the router. There is also no point in sharpening a cutter if it is dull. This is done using special equipment (costing about $1000), where you can set the required sharpening angle. Nothing good will come of it manually. So, dull ones are easier (and cheaper) to replace, since they cost relatively little.
There are a number of types of router bits that are used most often.
There are simple cutters, formed from a single piece of metal, and there are typesetting ones. Stacked ones have a shank - a base, a certain set of different cutting planes, a set of washers of different thicknesses. From these parts you can independently form the required relief.
A set cutter is a set of several cutting surfaces and washers from which you can make a cutter of the required shape
These are the most popular types of cutters, but in fact there are a lot of them. In addition to the different diameters of the shanks, there are different diameters of the cutting surfaces, their height, the location of the knives relative to each other, etc. In general, for do-it-yourself milling, you usually need about five of the most common cutters. They are usually present constantly, and the rest are purchased for specific types of work.
An electric router is a rather dangerous thing - sharp cutting parts rotating at high speed can cause serious injuries, and chips flying from under the tool too. And although most models have a protective shield that reflects the main flow of chips, safety glasses will not hurt. So working with a manual wood router requires attention and concentration.
One of the models is with a connected vacuum cleaner to remove chips
Working with a manual wood router will be easier and more enjoyable, and the products will be of normal quality if you meet certain conditions:
The requirements are not so complex, but fulfilling them is the key to good work and safety. Well, the main requirement is that the router must be driven smoothly, without jerks or jolts. If you feel a strong beat, change the speed. Most often it needs to be reduced, but in general it is worth focusing on the manufacturer’s recommendations (available on the packaging).
It is easier and faster to process the edges of a regular board using a surface planer, but if you don’t have one, a hand router will also do the job, but it will just take more time. There are two ways: without a template and with a template. If this is your first experience with a router, it is better to use a template. When processing the edges of boards, you need straight edge cutters, and most likely you will need two - with a bearing at the beginning and at the end of the cutting part (pictured).
To process the edge - make a flat surface
As a template, you can use an already processed board or, for example, a building rule. The length of the template should be slightly longer than the length of the workpiece - 5-6 cutter radii on each side. This will make it possible to avoid the cutter “diving” into the material at the beginning and at the end. One important point: the horizontal plane (perpendicular to the one being processed) must be level. In any case, its curvature should not be greater than the gap between the bearing and the cutting part, otherwise the cutter will touch the template, and this is very bad - it becomes imperfect and the applied irregularities will appear on other copies.
The cutting part of the cutters is of different lengths, but the larger the cutting part, the more difficult it is to work - more effort has to be made to hold the unit. Therefore, it is easier to start working with a medium cutter. The procedure for processing an edge with a router (with a template) is as follows:
That's all, actually. After you have completed the passage, evaluate the result and remove the clamps.
This, by the way, is another way to remove a quarter along the edge of the workpiece or in some part of it. To remove a quarter, adjust the cutting part so that the processing is at the specified depth.
By replacing the cutter with a curved one (fillet) and moving the template or using the included stop, you can apply a longitudinal pattern to the workpiece (pictured below).
In general, this milling technique is quite convenient. For the first steps in woodworking, this is the best way to “get your hands on it”; then you will be able to straighten the edges even without guides.
What to do if the thickness of the workpiece is no more than the length of the cutting part of the cutter? In this case, work with a manual wood router continues:
Now the edge is completely processed on one side. If necessary, repeat with the second side. In general, to master working with a manual wood router, you will need several “rough” blanks. Choose from those that you don’t mind throwing away - at first there will be a lot of jambs, then gradually you will learn.
If you need not a straight edge, but a rounded one or any other shape of the edge, you need to look at the condition of the existing edge. If the workpiece is more or less flat, take the required edge cutter, install it and process the surface as described above. If the surface is too curved, it is first brought to normal condition and then milled.
This is necessary because the bearing roller rolls over the surface and if there are flaws, they will be copied. Therefore, act sequentially - first level it, then add curvature.
If a curved surface is at all boring, a template is cut out. The design is applied to plywood 8-12 mm thick; first it can be cut out with a jigsaw, so the edge can be brought to perfection with a router.
In this case, you will also have to work with a router, but without a template for now. When the surface is perfect, the template is fixed to the workpiece and then the work already described above with a manual wood router. Just one thing: if you need to remove a large amount of material in some places, it is better to do it with a jigsaw, for example. Otherwise, the cutter will quickly become dull.
When installing doors, you need to cut in the hinges, how to do this using a router - in the next video (there is also information on how to make a groove, for example, for installing an extension).
How to make a homemade milling machine from laminate samples (or plywood) and how to make a tenon joint for drawers (a table, for example) - in the next video
Working with a hand router on wood is shown well in the following video, but it is in English. Even if you don't know English, take the time to watch it. Many operations will become clearer.
Plywood cutting on CNC machines – processing of plywood blanks on machine tools with numerical control. CNC machines allow the production of parts in automatic or semi-automatic mode. The advantage of this type of manufacturing is the high precision of the actions. CNC processing of plywood can be performed both in private production and in factory conditions.
Computer numerical control equipment allows operator intervention to be kept to a minimum. After manufacturing, the part does not require additional processing.
Using machine tools, several types of processing can be performed:
There is also plasma treatment. But it is used less frequently than other types. Depending on the type of processing, there are both advantages and disadvantages. It is necessary to pay special attention to their consideration if you do not know which machine is better to choose.
The most suitable materials for work are sheet type materials. Of the listed types of manufacturing, the most popular is milling. on the machine ensures the production of parts with precise dimensions and smooth edges. Laser cutting is more suitable for cutting plywood.
When cutting, you must adhere to the rules for using the unit.
Using milling you can create almost all types of parts. Modern models are compact, so they can be placed in a room with a small area. Numerical control ensures easy operation. Thanks to this, you can handle plywood processing without any experience. When purchasing a machine, you will receive instructions that describe how to operate it.
The most common and functional is the milling type. The design of the machine assumes the presence of a collet clamp. With its help, you can use cutters with different diameters with the machine.
They are small in size. But at the same time they have a lower power rating. Most often, such units are used for additional processing of parts in order to ensure higher accuracy.
Waterjet machines are also available. The third type of devices is represented by a vertical base. It has wide functionality and is large in size. Because of this, the device can only be placed in a room with a large area.
Giving preference, it is easier to process plywood with a milling cutter than when using other types of units. The milling device allows the production of parts with complex shapes.
Thanks to milling, the following is possible:
The cutting depth can be adjusted on a CNC router. This feature provides automatic processing. The operator is required to specify the trajectory along which the cutter will move. If you cut sloppily, the control program will help solve this problem.
Milling plywood allows you to obtain parts with a clean and smooth surface. When using a laser, the edges will be charred and the edge will suffer burns. Additional steps will be required to process the ends.
Other benefits include:
There are special cutters designed for cutting plywood. Using such a cutter, you can make parts, after which lint and other defects will not form on the cut.
But laser processing of plywood also has a number of advantages. Using a laser cutting machine, you can produce small parts that have precise shapes and fragile elements. By performing CNC laser cutting of plywood, there is no mechanical load on the workpiece.
Before production, it is necessary to prepare the CNC machine for operation. Setting up the unit involves two stages. The first is represented by setting up tool blocks, and the second - by working mechanisms.
Setup is carried out step by step:
Additionally you need to check:
When serial processing with cutters, you should carefully monitor the processing of the first workpiece. With its help, you can determine whether there are errors after adjustment. If there are inaccuracies, additional corrections must be made. If there are several elements, the layout on the sheet saves plywood. After setup, there is no need to check the control program - it will produce parts according to similar parameters.
Before you start cutting plywood, you need to make sure that the cutters are securely installed in the chuck. To do this, make sure that the cartridge is tightened and the nut is tightened. The check is performed using a wrench.
Then you need to adjust the depth to which the cutter will penetrate. The limiter knob allows for simple and quick adjustment of this indicator if necessary. To test milling, it is recommended to use an unnecessary piece of plywood.
Many inexperienced users believe that the larger the cutter I cut, the better. But the principle of “cutting with a large tool for better work” will not work here. If the cutters have a large diameter, the machine tool should be set to a low speed. When purchasing a machine, it comes with instructions in which you can see which parameters are optimal for processing.
The dimensions of the plywood blank should not be more than ten centimeters. For the production of larger parts, special CNC machines are used. Professional units allow you to perform three-axis processing and cut thicker plywood. If previously the operator cut the part himself, now the production is carried out automatically. One is required to monitor the work. You can control production remotely.
Cutting plywood using milling machines is used in the construction industry. Thanks to it, floors, wall formwork, and foundations are made. Plywood is also used in:
Using milling on CNC machines, figured cutting is created. Thanks to cutting, advertising structures are produced. Plywood has high performance characteristics. The material can be used to make small three-dimensional letters for signs.
Milling cutting is a material processing that allows you to obtain parts with precise dimensions and smooth edges. This type of cutting is consistent with smooth lines and all the details. Every day woodworking machines become more functional and sophisticated.
But not everyone can afford to buy such a machine. Some portable models are quite compact and take up little space. Simple and quick operation makes it possible to cut plywood products yourself.
Thanks to computer numerical control (CNC) technology, the cutting process is fully automated. The output is a finished product, which does not require additional interventions and processing. The machines are used for cutting the following types:
The presented types have their pros and cons, but with their help, you can quickly and accurately process almost any sheet material.
Specialized stores provide a huge range of hand tools that allow you to mill wooden parts at home.
Types of CNC routers for cutting plywood:
The first type is the most functional and common than other models. It has a collet clamp for cutters of various diameters.
An edge router has less power and size. It is used to give the side plane of a plywood sheet a neat look, and for shaped cutting of wood and MDF.
The design of combined routers is a vertical base. Dismantling the device helps to obtain a compact edging tool.
A milling machine will not only make wood processing easier, but will also help perform quite complex operations, for example: creating a tenon to connect two wooden parts; cutting out parts from plywood with a complex configuration; creating a beautiful pattern on the surface of the material.
With this equipment you can:
Thanks to the cutting depth settings, the process occurs automatically; you only need to manually set the movement path.
The milling machine can have a power of 600-2300 W, the most powerful models allow processing of some types of plastic.
Let's look at the main differences between milling and laser cutting.
Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the machine for the intended work program. This also includes instructing the machine operator on the peculiarities of processing certain parts.
The complex of such work is called adjustment. According to the overlay, tool blocks and individual tools must undergo installation:
In addition, the adjuster checks:
The installer must supervise the processing of the first plywood. At the end of the operation he assists the operator with checking the received dimensions details. If malfunctions are noticed in the operation, the adjuster makes additional corrections.
The first thing to do is install the mortises in the cartridge. Then you need to tighten the cartridge and tighten the nut using a wrench.
The next step is to adjust the penetration depth of the cutter. This parameter can be easily adjusted thanks to the limiter knob. Having chosen the appropriate parameter, the router is tested on an unnecessary piece of plywood.
Conduct adjustment of key parameters of the router operation: at what speed it will rotate, and in what direction the movements are carried out. For a large diameter cutter, set low speed. The optimal speed can be found in the instructions for the equipment.
The tool movements should be opposite to the movements of the shape cutter. Otherwise, the cutters may slip.
The milling cutter has significant power and high speed, so improper operation of the equipment and failure to comply with safety precautions can cost a lot.
Primary requirements:
Using a router You can get the most complex parts in a fairly short time.
The affordable cost of equipment and a large selection allow you to purchase a model that best suits customer needs.
